Replace the service valve on the air conditioner.
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2018
- This one demonstrates replacement of the service valve with a brazed fitting on the air conditioner. This eliminates the leak problems that these valves seem to have.
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Your comments are reassuring. All these years I had such bad experience with service valves and I thought it was my bad karma. 😊
I have been eliminating these valves since 1987. No matter how they are made, they still seem to leak.
GFM
This is NOT a good idea Mr. Grayfurnaceman, it is an excellent idea. Thanks for great videos and please consider a topic or two on ice machines.
Thanks for the support.
GFM
Your channel is one of the best Iv honestly learned a lot . I'm doing service now and videos like this definitely are great. Thanks
Welcome
GFM
You the man!! God bless for your talents and sharing.
Thanks for the support.
GFM
Wow so simple and effective solution thank you for sharing sir 👍👌
Welcome
GFM
I work apt maint and I got to where I'd rather recover it than mess with pumping it down. I replace an air handler and open the valves on the condenser to find a leak on an old unit. Sad to say I've teflon a couple and tightened down the cap in a pinch. I'm not replacing a service valve on a 25yr old unit. Just trying to get a few more years out of it. Great vid thank you
Pipe dope and Teflon can hold the pressure?
Good fix. Your correct about those leaking. A ball valve with an access fitting would be nice , there again a mechanical fitting and potential leak. Ball valves do last much longer than those silly valves installed by the factory tho.
Agreed.
GFM
So then if you are wanting to check the pressure on the high side you would just have to do it inside at the evaporator coil?
At 1:18, you will hear that there is a tap inside the outdoor unit for the high side.
GFM
Grayfurnaceman for the win!
Thanks for the support.
GFM
I've always seen them as single use valves, to hold manufacturers pre-charge in until connected/evacuated, then opened and never touched again.
also "job assurance valves" because they know they'll leak in time and guaranteed if they ever get touched.
How about a 4th option. Clean the threads up, flow nitrogen, put flux on threads and solder the cap on permanently. Of course make sure it is in the open position and the core is removed while soldering.
Interesting. When the Carrier RQ units were out there, the brazing of the valve was a very common operation for me. We tried everything. Pipe dope, O ring replacement, cap sealing. Nothing worked. Brazing always worked.
GFM
Without the hi side service valve how are you ever goin to put ur hi side gauges on the system and test It properly?
He mentioned in the beginning there was another high side service port inside the machine already. He should have shown it.
Why not install a ball valve inside the unit to maintain the option of pump down?
millweed88 You can certainly do that. However, ball valves are quite expensive. This method eliminates all mechanical valves. This is, of course, if you replace both valves. A part not installed costs nothing and causes no service problems.
GFM
I wanna see you 100k subscribers
Me too.
GFM
Could you not just remove this valve and silver solder in a Schrader valve allowing you to still connect a low side gauge?
On the unit shown, there are 2 taps inside the unit, so the tap at the lineset is superfluous. If the are no taps inside, I always braze in a line tap.
GFM
These valves are bad enough in the best situation. When you add in a shoddy install where the valves get cooked; they're almost useless. Ball valves with a service port are a nice solution but there often isn't time, space, or money for them. At least this method yields a leak free system
how does it not leak from the top cap being gone? i was just looking at mine and mines leaking from the top cap seem but in your video it seems to be gone lol
The cap is not there to seal. The only seal is the oring on the plunger. If the plunger leaks, the valve needs to be replaced or the oring needs to be replaced.
I have seen endless "repairs" that try to seal the cap. It will not work.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman ack, im going to have to call someone i guess. here is what is going on with mine, have any suggestions? someone told me prob replace the entire "king valve". if i replace the valve will i lose the freon and need to refill that to or is there some sort of shutoff for that. i wont be doing the work, just curious what im in for. ua-cam.com/users/shortsMGIKimheXv0
The refrigerant will have to be removed/recovered before repairs can be done.
The unit is R-22 so replacement refrigerant is very expensive.
This repair is quite expensive and considering the age of the unit, probably not worth the repair cost.
GFM@@hippa2dahoppa2
@@grayfurnaceman thank you. i think i found the problem, the condensation from the top part is dripping on the bottom on just the weird perfect enough angle where it was landing in the groove of the cap and not on top of the cap so it looked like it was leaking. today was rainy and windy and the temp dropped so i didnt get to fully test this theory but i will the next warm day. im so dumb. i guess ill swap it though i know its running on borrowed time. i actually have 2 units this old lol
Don’t you need to remove a panel to access the inside service port? Wouldn’t that panel being off cause air to bypass the condenser coil? I know this one is just a test machine. Just food for thought
Not on this machine. The access panel does not uncover the fan section.
GFM
They need to re-engineer those valves with different cap and threads so they can be sealed with a Teflon gasket. Of course that would cost a few extra pennies.
Most all of the new systems I've seen just plain don't use king valves anymore. You have to evacuate every repair, but the valve leaking is stopped at least.
Wouldn’t it be easier to pour quick dry epoxy on top of the valve to seal it.
I guess you could try it. I don't think it would work, but who knows.
GFM
My ac guy wants to charge me 350.00 to replace this. Does this sounds like a fair price?
Sounds pretty cheap to me.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Cool thankyou
You can't pump it down without service valves.
Jon [Insert Last Name Here] That’s true. The problem is most of the leaks are in the service valves. So if you have a leak in the valve, you can’t pump it down anyway. Thus the problem with service valves. Kind of a catch 22.
GFM
I thought most leaks start in indoor coils.
Presumably if you tighten the caps really well and don't pump it down more than once, they shouldn't leak. The caps form the final seal, right?
By far, the primary source of leaks are mechanical fittings. Indoor coils are no more of a source than outdoor coils. I want to emphasize that the caps on service valves are pretty useless for sealing. The cap is very thin in its cross section, so it tends to warp when tightened. The threads are not tapered so they have no sealing capability.
GFM
Catch r 22
KungFuMaintenance good one lol
Wtf😂
its kinda hard to argue against that kinda logic
I figured that out a long time ago. The fewer mechanical fittings, the fewer the leaks.
GFM
Hack job! You give hvac guys a bad reputation
So, should you replace a failing valve with another failing valve? That's not a repair, its the definition of insanity.
GFM