Hi, thank you for taking the time to cut a valve open and show us the internal operation. I have an HVAC question, regarding the forward mid and backseat silver color valve, is it possible to illustrate the valve internally as you did with the original service valve. Trying to learn as much as possible about refrigeration.
Blue Leak lock on the large hex cap stops that one. (Never put leak lock on the service port cap). Good brass calves cap and shrader core replacement solve the other.
I had a few hex service valves leak from the hex head position. Do you think that is from a faulty valve or maybe technicians who put a lot of force when they fully open the valve? I've seen a lot of guys do that. Thanks for the awesome video, these are very educational!
I had a tuneup done on our HVAC systems this spring and everything was said to be ok Eight weeks later, one of the units stopped cooling. The same company/technician came out and added 5 pounds of refrigerant and replaced a leaking valve cap which I was told had an o-ring that had basically disintegrated in his hand when removing the cap. I found out on the repair call that gauges were not used to measure the system on the first call but just temperature measurement and a P/T chart. The only repair that was done was to replace the service port cap with a new one. If the Schrader valve was the source of the leak into the failing cap, shouldn't the Schrader valve be replaced or at least an effort made to find the source of the leak and fix it? Isn't just a new cap a bandaid fix?
1 thing I didn't hear being mentioned. Not sure if it's true with all companies but Goodman at least considers the cap of the service valve as the final seal, as the valve might sometimes leak a bit. In my experience, after fully unscrewing the service valve, give it a little turn back. I have seen when it's all the way open it sometimes leaks a bit.
TYSM. I live in fear of 'screwing up' here, e.g, cracking a front-seated valve when there's no schrader in the service port (did I get that scenario right?)
Don't be afraid of making mistakes! I have made lots of mistakes! Mistakes are part of learning. I'm still learning! But here you are watching, learning and that's what's important. Just be safe, everything else can be fixed or replaced.
Very nice video, thanks for posting. I have a question. You mentioned that new condenser has all the ref. and the valve is in Front seat position. Very true. That's what I have. My piping to and from is complete. Did the vacuum with shredder valve out on suction side. As soon as I open the "top cover off " of the suction service valve, Ilost the vacuum. So that means the suction service valve has to be open half way so that the slot in the stem faces the service port, if I understand correctly. If I'm correct, how to achieve that location. Please advice. I need to solve my start up problem. Thanks and regards.
No, It is new modern unit with L-key and cap. Any how someone told me that valve is damaged due to heat from brazing pipe to it. Neoprene ring is burnt. That is the reason. So he suggested that after vacuuming the system, release 410a from liquid line to break the vacuum. Than open the Low side valve with nice gloves on and quickly. Than put the cap with sealant. Never open again. So I did. Lost little refrigerant. But unit is working now. I Thank you and all those on UA-cam trying to help each other that leads to Harmony and love in community. Thanks GOD.
Look inside. If it's hollow it does not have one. Take the cap off your tire and look in there. The valve core in your tire and in the unit looks identical
Simplest leaks are service valves, simple to fix. Next would be how well they where brazed in. The evaporator coil is the biggest leak place inside and the discharge line and lower portion of the condensors coil biggest leak outside.
@@love2hvac so it seems that there's always going to be leakage of this valve and the cap is the only way to stop or limit this? Any upgraded valve? Would it be best practice just to change the valves every time you do maintenance?
@@mobilecommunicationsnetwor5268 A leaking shrader will not be an issue with a good brass cap with an o-ring. I've seen shredders that where 20 years old with no issue if they are kept clean. The biggest problem is the plastic caps. Once you replace the plastic cap with brass it's a non issue.
I recently ran into a valve on a commercial trane condenser unit that had two service ports with the condenser fan pressure switch on a third port off the bottom. The tech I was working with said it had been left back seated which caused the pressure switch to be closed off to the refrigerant. He said it should be left mid seated to allow the pressure switch to cycle on the third condenser fan on each circuit. Have you seen this valve and does that make sense? Just asking because I cannot find any information on this valve
Yes that is common. I don't like to put stitches or controls on those valves only because the next tech might do just that, back seat the valve and make the switch worthless. Great point
Can you "break" a service valve by continuing to back the valve stem out? I did that and now it turns much too easily. I think I probably stripped the threads.
The brands that make them are muller, whiterkshers, sporlan, parker hanafin, JB You should be able to search "refrigerant ball valve" and the size of the tubing you need it for and several will show up. Your local supply house will likely stick them and you can get the from Grainger and even amazon
I start trade school august 9th cant wait man you've tought me a lot and actually make me feel good going in
Im already a year in the trade came back to this video as I replaced like my 3rd king valve now on a reciever loving the trade man🙏🏽👌🏽
Thanks….nice to have clarification on the terminology.
Thanks Ty! I’m not in the industry but I love to watch these bite sized videos to add to my general knowledge.
Thank you.
HVAC and its science is all around us! I'm glad your enjoying it. I still love this stuff.
Note to self: a KING VALVE is located on the exit of a receiver.
(Thank you for clarifying that one, too.)
Yeah it's not a big deal unless you work with a refregeration guy.
Thanks for the detailed explanation.
Love the cut away views 👏🏽 great info
Excellent refresher...Thanks.
Thank you for a great video. Really appreciate it.
Great tips Ty. thank you.
Muchas Gracias por la explicación ! From Argentina
Ty way called (king) it’s true valve will be enough.🌷
very helpful thank you for the video
Thank you for great video!
Great information! Thank you!
Great job. Thank you
Simply the best
perfect explained.👏
Thank you
Keep the good work!!!👍
Hi, thank you for taking the time to cut a valve open and show us the internal operation. I have an HVAC question, regarding the forward mid and backseat silver color valve, is it possible to illustrate the valve internally as you did with the original service valve. Trying to learn as much as possible about refrigeration.
Repairing this value in place is key for R22 systems. Any repair ideas would be good to hear.
Blue Leak lock on the large hex cap stops that one. (Never put leak lock on the service port cap). Good brass calves cap and shrader core replacement solve the other.
Thanks for the info
I had a few hex service valves leak from the hex head position. Do you think that is from a faulty valve or maybe technicians who put a lot of force when they fully open the valve? I've seen a lot of guys do that. Thanks for the awesome video, these are very educational!
Usually from overheating during brazing
I had a tuneup done on our HVAC systems this spring and everything was said to be ok Eight weeks later, one of the units stopped cooling. The same company/technician came out and added 5 pounds of refrigerant and replaced a leaking valve cap which I was told had an o-ring that had basically disintegrated in his hand when removing the cap. I found out on the repair call that gauges were not used to measure the system on the first call but just temperature measurement and a P/T chart. The only repair that was done was to replace the service port cap with a new one. If the Schrader valve was the source of the leak into the failing cap, shouldn't the Schrader valve be replaced or at least an effort made to find the source of the leak and fix it? Isn't just a new cap a bandaid fix?
Yea, the valve core should have been replaced along with the valve cap if they are leaking.
That should have been found during maintenance.
@@love2hvac Thank you. That is what I thought.
1 thing I didn't hear being mentioned. Not sure if it's true with all companies but Goodman at least considers the cap of the service valve as the final seal, as the valve might sometimes leak a bit. In my experience, after fully unscrewing the service valve, give it a little turn back. I have seen when it's all the way open it sometimes leaks a bit.
Yes the cap is for sure the final seal. Always pull a vacuum with the cap on.
TYSM.
I live in fear of 'screwing up' here, e.g, cracking a front-seated valve when there's no schrader in the service port (did I get that scenario right?)
Don't be afraid of making mistakes!
I have made lots of mistakes! Mistakes are part of learning. I'm still learning!
But here you are watching, learning and that's what's important. Just be safe, everything else can be fixed or replaced.
Show how a king valve works
Dice Clay valve (One And Done).
Very nice video, thanks for posting. I have a question. You mentioned that new condenser has all the ref. and the valve is in Front seat position. Very true. That's what I have. My piping to and from is complete. Did the vacuum with shredder valve out on suction side. As soon as I open the "top cover off " of the suction service valve, Ilost the vacuum. So that means the suction service valve has to be open half way so that the slot in the stem faces the service port, if I understand correctly. If I'm correct, how to achieve that location. Please advice. I need to solve my start up problem. Thanks and regards.
Is it this kind of valve?
ua-cam.com/video/CXHcSrFpLhs/v-deo.html
No, It is new modern unit with L-key and cap. Any how someone told me that valve is damaged due to heat from brazing pipe to it. Neoprene ring is burnt.
That is the reason.
So he suggested that after vacuuming the system, release 410a from liquid line to break the vacuum. Than open the Low side valve with nice gloves on and quickly. Than put the cap with sealant. Never open again. So I did. Lost little refrigerant. But unit is working now.
I Thank you and all those on UA-cam trying to help each other that leads to Harmony and love in community. Thanks GOD.
Sorry I miss understood. I'm glad you got it going!
How can you know whether a port has a shrader or not?
Look inside. If it's hollow it does not have one.
Take the cap off your tire and look in there. The valve core in your tire and in the unit looks identical
Is the service value the main source of leaks on the condenser side of the system?
Simplest leaks are service valves, simple to fix.
Next would be how well they where brazed in.
The evaporator coil is the biggest leak place inside and the discharge line and lower portion of the condensors coil biggest leak outside.
@@love2hvac Thank you for detailed answers.
Is there any option to upgrade the Schrader valve to stop any leakage?
Any seals or process to stop a leak without replacement from the top hex value?
HVAC 044 I show a brass cap with an o-ring that I like. Many codes now are requiring the locking caps for new systems :(
@@love2hvac so it seems that there's always going to be leakage of this valve and the cap is the only way to stop or limit this?
Any upgraded valve? Would it be best practice just to change the valves every time you do maintenance?
@@mobilecommunicationsnetwor5268
A leaking shrader will not be an issue with a good brass cap with an o-ring.
I've seen shredders that where 20 years old with no issue if they are kept clean.
The biggest problem is the plastic caps. Once you replace the plastic cap with brass it's a non issue.
@@love2hvac Ty, Thanks.
I recently ran into a valve on a commercial trane condenser unit that had two service ports with the condenser fan pressure switch on a third port off the bottom. The tech I was working with said it had been left back seated which caused the pressure switch to be closed off to the refrigerant. He said it should be left mid seated to allow the pressure switch to cycle on the third condenser fan on each circuit. Have you seen this valve and does that make sense? Just asking because I cannot find any information on this valve
Yes that is common. I don't like to put stitches or controls on those valves only because the next tech might do just that, back seat the valve and make the switch worthless.
Great point
Can you "break" a service valve by continuing to back the valve stem out? I did that and now it turns much too easily. I think I probably stripped the threads.
Yes if the previous person overtightened it, they can break. The threads on the valve are ok but the threads of the valve core can damage and break.
Can you give link for where to get that universal ball valve?
The brands that make them are muller, whiterkshers, sporlan, parker hanafin, JB
You should be able to search "refrigerant ball valve" and the size of the tubing you need it for and several will show up. Your local supply house will likely stick them and you can get the from Grainger and even amazon
What's the part number for the universal ball valve?
3/4" ODF BVSS Series Refrigeration Ball Valve w/ Access Valve, Brass Locking Seal Cap (R-410A)
SKU: 081017 Brand: White Rodgers
7/8" ODF BVS Series Refrigeration Ball Valve w/ Access Valve (R-410A)
SKU: 806758 Brand: White Rodgers
3/8" ODF BVS Series Refrigeration Ball Valve w/ Access Valve (R-410A)
SKU: 806752 Brand: White Rodgers
3/8" ODM Ball Valve w/ Schrader Valve
SKU: RPBV038 Brand: RLS
King valve allows a pull down so work can be done on the handler side?