I have questions when I try taking shraders out sometimes they are stuck in damaged I've tried using needle nose turn and pull to take out but I'm cautious because the last thing I want to do is damage the threads. Is there another way of taking this out? Also I've been doing the removal and install of shraders all wrong imma follow your way. I'm one of those that pulls vacuum then put shrader back in then charge system. You think that putting in 1-2 pounds and the valves will be ok?
If you do damage the threads then you can re tap them with valve core repair tool. Slime makes one that comes in pretty handy. If you break the schrader then you can usually thread a drywall screw in to the piece that gets stuck inside the port and yank it out.
In my experience this happens when the cap has been overtightened on the port. I use a security torx bit (the one with a hole in the middle) and an electric screwdriver or drill, set to slow speed to gradually widen the hole a bit, then the core tends to come out a bit easier.
Saw an installer one day, when he was done with vacuum he started dumping through the high side refrigerant. After that, he opened the valves like you do normally. What’s the purpose of that? Never got the chance to ask him. Does it affect the ac if you just open the valves after the vacuum or not? Thank you
@@ΒασίληςΜπάκας-χ4χ that's the way it should be done well it's what I've heard to break vacuum with refrigerant instead of air which may happen in some cases. In this cases you still have to careful purge lines before adding refrigerant.
@@SoutheastTx it’s very easy to overcharge the system like that though cause the ac comes precharged from the factory so you don’t really know what you added unless you scale it. Thanks for the quick response, makes sense.
Thank you for sharing such valuable info with us. This is why filter dryer is playing critical role in AC system. It’s actually not easy to avoid zero moisture or air when installing/repairing/maintaining units, yeah following up the rule of thumb for preventing moisture from coming into contact with inside units is no doubt a must, but a quality filter dryer should be another back up . Have seen many cases of brazing jobs without nitrogen breeze.
Amazing teaching I love this guy ...i watch rewatch and re rewatch videos....then i keep learning thanks a lot wish they had your videos at school 😊 thx
Fascinating video because I just recently came up with a solution of adding RX scavenger to any burn out systems. Super simple process and it makes everything go very smooth.
Such great content. Elecchicken here looking to install my first mini splits. Work with chillers at work. Our trans centravac units operate at a slight vacuum all the time with 123a refrigerant. It’s interesting stuff, this hvac is.
I find pressure behind valve caps 7/10 times, even after replacing the core. From the Lennox IOM: "Each valve is equipped with a service port which has a factory− installed Schrader valve. A service port cap protects the Schrader valve from contamination and serves as the primary leak seal ."
I don't like having that many connections when trying to pull a vacuum. I would rather have the vacuum pump run longer than deal with all those potential leak connections.
Up in NJ, & suspect others, there is a LIABILITY situation, in that IF. I AM the LAST PERSON SERVICING a residential unit I MUST INSTALL LOCKING VALVE CAPS , to negate HUFFING , , there was a SCHOOL IN FLORIDA where the chiller was ALWAYS SHORT OF REFRIGERANT , several leak checks provided NOTHING ! Contractor installed a camera into a video recorder, then FOUND THE ANSWER,,, HUFFING, SO until LOCKING CAPS, WERE INSTALLED, , no more huffing hey were speaking of enough refrigerant , to disable a big chiller ! Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
What if you find out the Schrader Valve is leaking after you pull a vacuum? Replaced the condenser which was the obvious culprit but then figured out the service port was damaged during the process. Low side s pissing for a second when I removed the coupler.
Do you care to recommend a brand for everyday core repair use? I have two Appion’s and they won’t always get a core out, even if you have it just right enough to not leak. I had an old one with no mane on it and it would pull out any core but it broke. The Appion’s are great for vacuums and will put any core in after a vacuum but some systems just won’t pull them under charge.
@@danielbergey3358 mine will always grab them but it feels like they get caught in the O ring or ball valve and fall of on some units. It helps to not tighten it up much on the valve but have one I can’t get out even when it’s so loose it’s leaking. I have flare cap on it now, I’ll see how that goes long term.
I thought I needed to pull vacuum on both the hi and low side. From the setup I can pull the vacuum off one end and on the other port have a micron gauge . What about recovering
So schrader has to be out to pull vacuum but in to charge the system. If you can push liguid thru a schrader you should be able to pull vacuum it thru a schrader
You *can* pull a vacuum through a schrader, it just takes longer than it does if you remove the schrader first. The (depressed) schrader acts as a restriction in the flow of fluids (air is a fluid). That restriction reduces how much air you can move through that point, so the vacuum pulls down slower. Pulling out the schrader core removes that restriction entirely. Pulling a vacuum on a large system with a lot of piping or a lot of indoor units, it's usually a good idea to remove the schrader core(s) (if you can pull from multiple ports at once with multiple core remover tools) to cut down on evacuation time. If it's a small package unit or a small 1-1 ductless unit, I generally won't bother using a core remover tool and will just pull through the schrader core.
Also, if you have the core out to pull the vacuum (with a core remover tool), the core needs to stay out until you've put at least some refrigerant into the system, otherwise you're gonna be letting some air into the system when re-inserting the core. Just make sure you purge your charging hose before actually adding refrigerant, or you may still end up introducing air into the system.
I have questions when I try taking shraders out sometimes they are stuck in damaged I've tried using needle nose turn and pull to take out but I'm cautious because the last thing I want to do is damage the threads. Is there another way of taking this out?
Also I've been doing the removal and install of shraders all wrong imma follow your way. I'm one of those that pulls vacuum then put shrader back in then charge system.
You think that putting in 1-2 pounds and the valves will be ok?
If you do damage the threads then you can re tap them with valve core repair tool. Slime makes one that comes in pretty handy. If you break the schrader then you can usually thread a drywall screw in to the piece that gets stuck inside the port and yank it out.
In my experience this happens when the cap has been overtightened on the port. I use a security torx bit (the one with a hole in the middle) and an electric screwdriver or drill, set to slow speed to gradually widen the hole a bit, then the core tends to come out a bit easier.
Saw an installer one day, when he was done with vacuum he started dumping through the high side refrigerant. After that, he opened the valves like you do normally. What’s the purpose of that? Never got the chance to ask him. Does it affect the ac if you just open the valves after the vacuum or not? Thank you
@@ΒασίληςΜπάκας-χ4χ that's the way it should be done well it's what I've heard to break vacuum with refrigerant instead of air which may happen in some cases.
In this cases you still have to careful purge lines before adding refrigerant.
@@SoutheastTx it’s very easy to overcharge the system like that though cause the ac comes precharged from the factory so you don’t really know what you added unless you scale it. Thanks for the quick response, makes sense.
Thank you for sharing such valuable info with us. This is why filter dryer is playing critical role in AC system. It’s actually not easy to avoid zero moisture or air when installing/repairing/maintaining units, yeah following up the rule of thumb for preventing moisture from coming into contact with inside units is no doubt a must, but a quality filter dryer should be another back up . Have seen many cases of brazing jobs without nitrogen breeze.
Happy holidays. Thank u. Your helping techs all around the world put food on there family's table.
Amazing teaching I love this guy ...i watch rewatch and re rewatch videos....then i keep learning thanks a lot wish they had your videos at school 😊 thx
Fascinating video because I just recently came up with a solution of adding RX scavenger to any burn out systems. Super simple process and it makes everything go very smooth.
excellent artwork and animation
Such great content. Elecchicken here looking to install my first mini splits. Work with chillers at work. Our trans centravac units operate at a slight vacuum all the time with 123a refrigerant. It’s interesting stuff, this hvac is.
I find pressure behind valve caps 7/10 times, even after replacing the core.
From the Lennox IOM: "Each valve is equipped with a service port which has a factory− installed Schrader valve. A service port cap protects the Schrader valve from contamination and serves as the primary leak seal ."
I don't like having that many connections when trying to pull a vacuum. I would rather have the vacuum pump run longer than deal with all those potential leak connections.
Up in NJ, & suspect others, there is a LIABILITY situation, in that IF. I AM the LAST PERSON SERVICING a residential unit I MUST INSTALL LOCKING VALVE CAPS , to negate HUFFING , , there was a SCHOOL IN FLORIDA where the chiller was ALWAYS SHORT OF REFRIGERANT , several leak checks provided NOTHING ! Contractor installed a camera into a video recorder, then FOUND THE ANSWER,,,
HUFFING, SO until LOCKING CAPS, WERE INSTALLED, , no more huffing hey were speaking of enough refrigerant , to disable a big chiller ! Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Nice job and video
Thanks for sharing this video, God bless this channel and more power.
Thanks for a wonderful explanation
What if you find out the Schrader Valve is leaking after you pull a vacuum? Replaced the condenser which was the obvious culprit but then figured out the service port was damaged during the process. Low side s pissing for a second when I removed the coupler.
Ty for the great content.
Thanks!
Really awesome video
Do you care to recommend a brand for everyday core repair use? I have two Appion’s and they won’t always get a core out, even if you have it just right enough to not leak.
I had an old one with no mane on it and it would pull out any core but it broke. The Appion’s are great for vacuums and will put any core in after a vacuum but some systems just won’t pull them under charge.
I had to separate the end of my appion's removal to pull it out
@@danielbergey3358 mine will always grab them but it feels like they get caught in the O ring or ball valve and fall of on some units. It helps to not tighten it up much on the valve but have one I can’t get out even when it’s so loose it’s leaking. I have flare cap on it now, I’ll see how that goes long term.
for new installs, where your login to be around for some time, why risk pulling the cores ? just take a bit longer to trim/charge...
Hi can this tool be uses every time I perform a vacume...when maintenancing the AC condensor lines in the unit unit???
Would there be a need to purge when reinstalling under a charge?
So you don’t need to remove it for a nitrogen leak test?
I feel like the loss is minimal compared to pulling gauges off
I thought I needed to pull vacuum on both the hi and low side. From the setup I can pull the vacuum off one end and on the other port have a micron gauge . What about recovering
Are the valve core seal colors identify the operating temp and pressure?
Anyone know where to find this tool that will work on a 1997 F-150?
So schrader has to be out to pull vacuum but in to charge the system. If you can push liguid thru a schrader you should be able to pull vacuum it thru a schrader
You *can* pull a vacuum through a schrader, it just takes longer than it does if you remove the schrader first. The (depressed) schrader acts as a restriction in the flow of fluids (air is a fluid). That restriction reduces how much air you can move through that point, so the vacuum pulls down slower. Pulling out the schrader core removes that restriction entirely. Pulling a vacuum on a large system with a lot of piping or a lot of indoor units, it's usually a good idea to remove the schrader core(s) (if you can pull from multiple ports at once with multiple core remover tools) to cut down on evacuation time. If it's a small package unit or a small 1-1 ductless unit, I generally won't bother using a core remover tool and will just pull through the schrader core.
Also, if you have the core out to pull the vacuum (with a core remover tool), the core needs to stay out until you've put at least some refrigerant into the system, otherwise you're gonna be letting some air into the system when re-inserting the core. Just make sure you purge your charging hose before actually adding refrigerant, or you may still end up introducing air into the system.
@@EpyonRules thank you for the clarification , that really helps.
Can you use these to add refrigerant using wireless probes on one port and the hose from the refrigerant tank on the other?
buy a charging T homie
fuck i love your vids. thanks!
this video looks even worse than all conspiracy theories combined LOL with all of the arrows and sh1t