Fix your primer before painting your car.
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- In this episode, I'll share some tips and techniques to fix your primer before painting your car and how to correct pinholes and waves in your primer. How to use a guide coat, block and evaluate the surface before you start applying paint. Be sure to check out my other videos to help you " BUILD YOUR SKILL"
Previous videos part 1
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Repair a dent before filler
• Damaged fender! how to...
Previous part 2
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Auto body tips and techniques
• Auto body filler tips ...
CHECK OUT MY OTHER HOW TO VIDEOS
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paint gun and clear review playlist
• paint gun reviews
how to color sand and buff like glass
• Beginners guide to wet...
Autobody repair made easy
• Auto body repair made ...
how to prepare primer for paint
• How to prepare a car p...
using body filler to repair a dent
• Using body filler to r...
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In this video
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dura gold dry guide coat
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ultra fine sanding sponge 800grit equivalent
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motorguard flexible block
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velcro to make hook and loop block
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usc Icing glazing putty
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upol 2k primer
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body filler speakers assortment
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Iwata kiwami4
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mirka dustless sanding system
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prep solvent
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1500 mirks scuff pad
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dura gold 600 hook n loop
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dura gold 180 grit hook n loop sandpaper
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clean sheets mixing board
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1 1/2 masking tape
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overspray protective plastic sheeting
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If you find this video helpful be sure to let me know in the comments. I welcome your feedback and questions
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Garage Noise assumes no liability for any property or personal damage that may arise from doing a repair on your vehicle after watching any of my repair video's. Due to factors beyond the control of Garage Noise, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Again Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Garage Noise.
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Another great video. Thanks Chris
Thank's brother! appreciate the comment and support!
I am loving that A610 spray gun. I used it yesterday for the first time!
Awesome! I love the material savings and low overspray.
@@GarageNoise Thank you for the review!
@@SomeGuyInSandy yw👍
Very interesting instalment Chris, I keep saying this but you always explain what you are doing at each step in a way that us DIY/Hobby painters can understand which is a massive help, just wanted to ask if you prefer the metal or plastic spreaders when applying your filler/glaze do you find that the metal ones dig in, I also like your guide coat as it seems quite black and dense where I use the Mirka black powder one and it's almost a dark grey making it hard to see at times👌👌👍John UK
Appreciate it John! I really don't have a opinion on spreaders the plastic ones are nice cause you can cut them down if you need something small. The steel is a bit more flexible not much. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
Awesome
👍
Another one good
Thank's brother!
Great video i love it
👍thank you! Appreciate your comment and support!
Great video. And yes, that has happened to me. Lol 😂
👍
2 quick questions... 1. How to I make sure that all the scratches that could be visible through base coat are eliminated? Should I use dry guide coat etc to see if there are any scratches left and keep sanding until they're gone? 2. I did just want I mention in question 1, must have left some 180 scratches and did not spot it in the primer, now the scratches are visible through the base. What's the best way to fix it? I have not applied clear yet. Thank you.
You can sand the basecoat with 600 ,you may sand into the primer but that's ok, then tack it of apply more base and clear. Appreciate your question and support. Yes, guide coat to check for scratches is the thing to do.
Should you do the same with spray bomb filler primer..and same grit paper?
Stay away from spray bomb primer unless it 2k. But yes same grit sandpaper. Appreciate the comment!
@@GarageNoise ok Chris just ordered spray max 2k filler primer hope that’s the ticket 👊🏻 throwing the Rust-Oleum away
Hi Chris, At the start of the video you used 320 grit sandpaper. After sanding you noticed a pin hole and a small flat spot so you used some glaze. At approximately 4 min mark a caption comes up to apply glaze over 180 grit sandpaper. Unless I missed it did you change paper back to 180? Thanks.
Hahaha yes and it scared the fire out of me
🤔
The air hose coming off the da
@@pedroherrera5371 haha yeah I forgot I left that in the video.
Thanks for the video! Question: that sprayer you’re using, is their only 70% alcohol or is it diluted? Also, do you have to use only 70% or can 91% be used too? Thank you again!
It's not diluted. 90% is fine. I just like 70% because of the lower flash point
Hi I am wondering why is not better after spaying primer,spray just a bit of base coat from distance and effect is even better rather using guide Powder
You could do that but basecoat won't sand off like the guide coat it also gums up sandpaper and is more expensive than the guide coat. Appreciate the comment and support!
Do you have the link for the sunmight 180 grit foam pads that leave a 600 grit scratch mentioned in the video? I do not see it in the description. Thanks for the videos!
I'll post it here in a minute
Here's the link I think this one leaves an 800 grit scratch amzn.to/43Zx3t4
Quick question I thought you can't/ shouldn't put bondo/putty on top of primer? What's your thoughts
Body filler or bondo is a little different than glaze . You can put body filler over prime but it's not the best practice and should be avoided if possible. Glaze on the other hand is ok. Still I try to avoid doing that as well. Appreciate the comment and support!
@@GarageNoise ok great to know thanks, great video
@@redbaron2448 👍
Hello, which needle/nozzle size did you use for the primer? Greetings WoW
1.5 for high build primer
You use a metal spreader when applying the bondo do they work better than the plastic ones ?
I use both don't really have a preference. They both have their place.
How long did you wait before sanding the primer surfacer?
I let my primer sit overnight
I sprayed base and clear over primer I forgot to feather out primer edges now I see the primer any advice sand it all back down?
You will need to sand clear and apply base and clear again. You don need to remove what you've done unless there's some other issue. You can sand with 600 or 800 apply base and clear and you're good.
@@GarageNoise thank you 🙏
What did you use to reduce the primer ?
It calls for urethane reducer. 4:1:1
You should mock up the bumper and headlight before even applying primer make sure that body line is tits.
I did, just edited it out.
@@GarageNoise yessir! Good job man. Where r you from?
@@drummer_zay9493 Oklahoma! How bout you?
I recently tried the USC Icing and was not impressed. Truthfully, the Upoll "fine" body filler, that has been thinned using paint reducer, goes on SMOOTHER, sands EASIER, and is just overall less work, and faster to achieve a flat surface... I was kind of let down after using the Icing..