Thanks for sharing your knowledge again Chris, lots of useful detail and the do's and don'ts when painting a white panel🙏👍John UK Oh and please keep them coming🙏🙏💪
Thank you for the video and watched before I made mistake with using high build primer. I have a question about adding the reducer. I saw the instruction says 4:1 . 4part of primer to 1 part hardener. But why adding extra reducer as instruction not mention? What situation should I add the reducer in? Thank you
Great info. I have a gallon of the upol high-build primer. Will it fill in small paint chips? I'm planning on spraying 5 wet coats then blocking and painting as I don't have time to prime-sand and reprime.
@@allenpp6748 I like to use the UV activated filler for that. It makes the process faster, and I noticed it doesn't seem to shrink like the old stuff.
HI, just came across this video due to getting the same primer. Would it be about 600 grit paper or a scotch pad if priming / sealing a new panel. Great video 🤟
Enjoyed your video. What yellow block sanding kit is that? Can I hook it up to a shop vacuum? You use the alcohol instead of the wax and grease remover? Curious why you made that choice.
It's a mirka sanding block it can be hooked up to a mirka vac but as far as a shop vac the hose sizes a different. Alcohol or prp solvent abothe fine . I use both but Alcohol is cheaper and creates less static.
@@GarageNoise if you had a panel done to bare metal what choice would you make? Alcohol or wax and grease remover? Alcohol will remove what type of contaminates? I’ve watched people use certain window cleaners and then wax and grease removers but this is the first time I’ve seen using alcohol. Your thoughts? Thank you for the response.
I see that the UPOL System 20 primer can be mixed as a primer filler (4:1), a primer surfacer (4:1:1) and a primer sealer (4:1:2). I see a lot of videos explaining the application differences between a surfacer and a sealer, but not much of any explanations on the appropriate applications between using a filler vs a surfacer. Based on the fact that the filler mixes without any reducer, I assume that is appropriate to use when you want the highest amount of filling capability to provide more product to sand. Is that correct? Also, my paint supplier didn't provide reducer - so can I use any urethane-based reducer?
What’s the reason for removing dirt off the white if you covered it with sealer. For some reason I thought you were planing on fading it in. Good work I appreciate the info.
You're using the right kind of primer used it ten years in large shops the painter oks or rejects the body work since he may need to re paint it in Dallas in high guality shops youre required to have 8 years as a body man except possably the skings big box there working for the ins co not the customer.
How long does that primer need to dry before I block sand for the first time? And how long do I wait before I start painting base coat and clear ? And do I need to wait for shrinkage or can I do all the painting process in one day? I need to do this same repair. Thanks
There is some shrinkage with this primer. So ideally you would wait overnight for the primer to dry. If you do that, you shouldn't have a problem with shrinkage. You can sand it and then once it sanded and prepped out. You could paint it right after that
Does the type of primer really matter if I'm going over old paint? I was wondering if I could use lacquer primer since it's a 1 part (for convenience) under a 2 part urethane color coat.
You can but 1k is real aggressive and can react to different types of paint. If you are going to use it light first couple coats with extra time to dry.
Learn so much from this channel. Thank you!
Awesome! Appreciate the comment and support brother!
You give a lot of info on painting. Thanks
You got it! Appreciate the comment and support!
great job, waiting to see the final result
Working on that video now. appreciate your comment and support!
Thanks Again. I've been doing paint work for 25 years, never to old to learn. 🙂
That's for sure, learning something new everyday. Appreciate the comment and support!
Thanks Chris for all the info on fixing the Dodge trk. You spoke right to me.
You bet
That's another great lesson
👊
Thanks for sharing your knowledge again Chris, lots of useful detail and the do's and don'ts when painting a white panel🙏👍John UK
Oh and please keep them coming🙏🙏💪
Very welcome! Appreciate the comment and support!
I just ordered a pre primed steel bumper for my truck and wanted to know what steps would you take to prep it for paint. Thanks
I have several videos on this topic. Sand with 600 ,adhesion promoter, sealer(optional),base and then clear hope this helps appreciate the support!
Great video thanks for all the tips
You bet
Always great videos.
👊👍
Awesome! Thanks Chris.
You bet!
I got a run in my dp90 primer do i wet sand that
No, block it out
Never disappoint Chris 👍 thanks for the video
You bet!👊
Thank you for the video and watched before I made mistake with using high build primer. I have a question about adding the reducer. I saw the instruction says 4:1 . 4part of primer to 1 part hardener. But why adding extra reducer as instruction not mention? What situation should I add the reducer in? Thank you
Awesome 😊
Thanks brother!
Great info. I have a gallon of the upol high-build primer. Will it fill in small paint chips? I'm planning on spraying 5 wet coats then blocking and painting as I don't have time to prime-sand and reprime.
Yes it will, anything deep should be filled tho.
@@GarageNoise Will do. Today is primer day for my roadrunner and hopefully paint by the end of the week lol.
@@allenpp6748 I like to use the UV activated filler for that. It makes the process faster, and I noticed it doesn't seem to shrink like the old stuff.
HI, just came across this video due to getting the same primer. Would it be about 600 grit paper or a scotch pad if priming / sealing a new panel. Great video 🤟
600
How long for did u left the primer to dry? Ta
Enjoyed your video. What yellow block sanding kit is that? Can I hook it up to a shop vacuum?
You use the alcohol instead of the wax and grease remover? Curious why you made that choice.
It's a mirka sanding block it can be hooked up to a mirka vac but as far as a shop vac the hose sizes a different. Alcohol or prp solvent abothe fine . I use both but Alcohol is cheaper and creates less static.
@@GarageNoise if you had a panel done to bare metal what choice would you make? Alcohol or wax and grease remover?
Alcohol will remove what type of contaminates?
I’ve watched people use certain window cleaners and then wax and grease removers but this is the first time I’ve seen using alcohol. Your thoughts? Thank you for the response.
Great job, what was the gread sanding paper you started with for the primer?
320
I see that the UPOL System 20 primer can be mixed as a primer filler (4:1), a primer surfacer (4:1:1) and a primer sealer (4:1:2). I see a lot of videos explaining the application differences between a surfacer and a sealer, but not much of any explanations on the appropriate applications between using a filler vs a surfacer. Based on the fact that the filler mixes without any reducer, I assume that is appropriate to use when you want the highest amount of filling capability to provide more product to sand. Is that correct? Also, my paint supplier didn't provide reducer - so can I use any urethane-based reducer?
Yes, you are correct. High build if applying over filler and need max fill. Yes you can use any urethane reducer.
What’s the reason for removing dirt off the white if you covered it with sealer. For some reason I thought you were planing on fading it in. Good work I appreciate the info.
Removed dirt off areas that are just getting clear
Ihave use several brands of 2k primer but upol is the best make sure you get the metal to metal one thunder road auto body.
It's good stuff I'm always testing more primers tho. Appreciate your comment!
As a business,how critical is the preparation.do you look at and sign off on all body work from employees before painting in applied.
It's very critical, most important steps. I'm the I'm the main employee 🤣 I do have Daris helping with prep.
You're using the right kind of primer used it ten years in large shops the painter oks or rejects the body work since he may need to re paint it in Dallas in high guality shops youre required to have 8 years as a body man except possably the skings big box there working for the ins co not the customer.
What sanding system do you use ??
Mirka Deros amzn.to/3s61QGR
How long does that primer need to dry before I block sand for the first time? And how long do I wait before I start painting base coat and clear ? And do I need to wait for shrinkage or can I do all the painting process in one day? I need to do this same repair. Thanks
There is some shrinkage with this primer. So ideally you would wait overnight for the primer to dry. If you do that, you shouldn't have a problem with shrinkage. You can sand it and then once it sanded and prepped out. You could paint it right after that
Did you change from dura block to mirka?
I use them both
What's the difference between silicon carbide sandpaper vs. Aluminum oxide sandpaper???
I don't know exactly but this 3m cubitron is the best I've ever used for quality and budget.
Nice
Thanks!
Does the type of primer really matter if I'm going over old paint? I was wondering if I could use lacquer primer since it's a 1 part (for convenience) under a 2 part urethane color coat.
You can but 1k is real aggressive and can react to different types of paint. If you are going to use it light first couple coats with extra time to dry.
You should have used the glazing putty over the filler before priming the door .
👍
Hey man I wonder do you know bad Billy The bodyman painted Man let me know if you do knowing
🤔no don't think so.