Every Gibson guitar should be like this...
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- Every Gibson guitar should be like this...
Todays video we are talking about the ABR 1 that has been around since the 50s. Gibson stopped using these for years and thankfully, have returned to using them on their standards, classics and custom shops!
Wanna support the channel? Consider using these affiliate links...
Shop Guitars at Sweetwater
sweetwater.sjv.io/oqZb0b
Shop Guitars at Zzounds
www.zzounds.com/a--3979426/ca...
Info & References
www.thomann.de/blog/en/tune-o...
www.stewmac.com/video-and-ide...
00:00 Intro
00:30 What is a Tune O Matic?
1:56 History and creation
2:33 The Legend Ted McCarty
3:44 ABR 1 vs Nashville Style
6:10 What makes ABR better
7:20 How to make your guitar an ABR 1
8:39 Why modern ABR 1 is better
8:53 Which way the screws face
Tip Jar - paypal.me/stevensterlacci
Gear I Use (Amazon Affiliate)
Guitar Related
Line 6 HX Stomp amzn.to/3cl8M5N
Line 6 HX FX amzn.to/3fD4JDJ
Reunion Blues RBX 2E Double Bag amzn.to/3d1iw4B
Studio Headphones (Cans) amzn.to/3cmfZ5t
My Favorite Cables amzn.to/2WNhZxg
Strings I use amzn.to/2yHd5tv
Suhr Reactive Load IR amzn.to/2yHsOJ1
Picks! amzn.to/2Ackm4R
Guitar Rack amzn.to/2YNxhVa
Camera and Lighting Related
Camera amzn.to/3ckvDhF
Best Lens for M50 amzn.to/3fE4iso
Camera AC Power amzn.to/36BpJXr
Camera Shotgun Mic amzn.to/37v88AR
Camera Batteries amzn.to/2TLh1AL
B Camera amzn.to/3biNYuj
Cell Phone Mic amzn.to/2YMwoMu
Vocal Mic amzn.to/3fBPafy
Tabletop Lights amzn.to/35JptFu
Light Ring amzn.to/3bmiyDc
Any questions about my Les Paul in this vid, check out the whole story and what exactly it is
ua-cam.com/video/96Q5yzTw2Ws/v-deo.htmlsi=ysKobU13fja_UA8v
The part that gets hammered into the guitar is called the anchor. As you point out, the early ABR-1s did not have anchors- the height post went directly into the wood. The reason they stopped doing that and started using anchors was because some player rest their hands on the bridge, thus, causing it to lean forward and throw the intonation off. Also, it often damaged the finish and elongated the hole making the post become loose. The anchor stabilized the bridge and that coupled with a Nashville TOM stabilized the bridge totally. It is virtually impossible to hear a difference in tone with or without anchors, so anchors became the norm. Originally, the saddles were called "saddle inserts" and the base of the bridge was the saddle, but the nomenclature has changed over time.
Awesome addition! Thank you for both comments
Seth Lover invented the Gibson PAF humbucker. McArty was president of the company and wanted a solution to the noise.
True. Lover did indeed invent the humbucker and it was McCarty’s desire to kill single coil hum that was the impetus.
Great job Steve!
I like the TonePros bridge because of the screws that lock down the bridge and tailpiece make things more stable. I took it a step further….. once I got the action the way I wanted….
I measured the space between the body and the threaded disc the bridge rests on with a block of feeler gauges, measuring with a micrometer… took a length of 1/2 inch brass stock, drilled center to match the post,
.002 proud, locking down the disc so that bridge can’t move!
The thin threaded posts become
much more stable and ring more.that plus the TonePros…..
Thanks for all you do! Clark
A significant disadvantage of the ABR-1 style bridge is that if you're unlucky, it might develop 'post-lean' over time. Basically the posts lean towards the headstock, damaging the inside of the guitar. The studs of the nashville style bridge prevent this
I think thats only on vintage guitars that remained at tension with tailpieces nailed all the way down. It is very easy to avoid that happening
Yep
Yup. I had a Gibson SG special from the early 2000's.
After s few years the adjustment wheel wore out. The post started to lean towards the nut. I traded it very soon.
It was a good guitar but I didn't feel like maintenance was worth it. Traded it and bought a 2002 Gibson Gothic Explorer. Wish I still had it. 😞
I agree with your mod. Makes total sense to me. I modded my epi SG special with a p90 bridge pickup so I have fun playing acdc getting a mix of Angus/Malcolm type tones just by flick the selector switch from p90 to humbucker to a mix. The mod doesn't require much apart from removing tiiny corners from the standard humbucker route using a small sharpened flat screwdriver blade as the p90 sits on the body with a foam packed underneath. Took me an hour and is easily converted back to stock.
it gives that little bit of support, I like putting an extra thumbwheel on each of my vintage ES 335 abr-1 bridge posts and screw it down to the body,
My 1994 Firebird V has the ABR and it is a phenomenal instrument. I noticed the screws going straight into the body and thought it was weird. Now I know what it is and how lucky I am to have one!
Totally agree, when I got my Les Paul, a couple of years ago, I switched out the Nashville for a Faber ABR1. I noticed an immediate improvement.
This video may have finally pushed me over the edge to try a Faber conversion. I've looked at them for years but have never been brave enough to pull the trigger, considering the price tag. Thanks for the great video!
Youll love it man. We should collab on some stuff being similar sized channels. You do some great work and are killing it lately! Thanks for checking out the vid
@@SteveSterlacci I'm totally down!
@Kyle Bull shoot me an email or friend request me on the book face. Email is stalach21 at yahoo
The original version of the ABR-1 did not have the saddle retainer wire. The saddles were held in place by string tension. The retainer wire did not appear until sometime after 1960.
Ok
Great video, thank you for the explanation Steve. I understand the rattle on one of my guitars now. Grazie !!
Prego! Glad to help
So I did a “flame maple mod” on my edwards e-Lp. It’s when you buy longer threaded rods for your abr-1 and you screw them all the way down to you reach the bottom of the hole. So nice. It’s crazy how much the guitar rings and sustains.
Very nice! Bet it rings like a bell!!
Thank you for the very informative video! I learned a lot.
I am buying a master kit conversion from Faber and very excited. I think in couple weeks they are having 20% off sale which is very nice. Thanks for shedding some light on this interesting and somewhat confusing topic. I think it goes without saying how critical a good bridge system is, and Gibson is notorious for cutting corners.
You'll love the results!
I have a '76 Les Paul Custom, that I bought new. Stock, it had the studs screwed directly into the top of the guitar. I noticed that, while playing, the bridge moved slightly. I asked around, found out about the Nashville T-O-M , and had one installed. The bridge quit moving. I threw the original bridge in the garbage.The only difference between the two bridges is - The original (ABR 1?) was a bit smaller, and had the wire retainer. The Nashville Tune O Matic is larger, has extended "travel" of the saddles allowing more adjustment, has the same sized threaded "rod", and, most importantly; has the metal "inserts" which are either pressed into, or hammered into the drilled out original holes. I would hope that they're pressed in! So you are saying that, the inserts are causing "deadness?". I don't believe that any of the Nashville bridge differences make any difference. My guitar has incredible sustain. You state that you get better tone, and a feeling of springiness. I submit that the springiness is caused by the bridge's studs moving! Why would Gibson change from adding the inserts,(added labor!), to just drilling a hole? I think I know the answer..... Someone now needs to do a comparison between the aftermarket "set screw" mounted tailpiece, and the crummy "Loose metal bar loosely coupled to it's mounting posts" design.
I have an Orville les paul with the abr, and it has a lovely sweet and lively sound. I have a Gibson Les Paul Classic Antique which had the Nashville bridge and sounded awful. I changed the bridge to a Gotoh with large posts and it still sounded dreadful. recently I changed the bridge again to a Tonepros TPFA bridge with aluminium body and brass saddles. also with large posts.
I can't believe how good it sounds now. Nashville and abr bridges are made from zinc alloy. I don't know why they sounded so bad on my guitar, but I am now a big fan of aluminium bridges with brass saddles. my Gibson has been given a new lease on life.
Those orvilles are amazing! A good bridge is truly inspiring to play. Its crazy what a difference it makes to the player
As far as maxing out intonation on the Nashville... Just flip the bridge saddle and that gives you enough travel to intonate it. I had to do that on my G string.
Nice Mod Steve. I've got a LP Type guitar (V100) with ABR1 bridge. I wanted to lift the tailpiece but not use over wrap, so put washers onto the bolt then screwed down the bolt with the string holder (of tailipiece) on top. This resulted in the right height I wanted but also a great solid connection with the guitar body. Never come across anyone else doing this yet, but it's great.
Note it was a standard LP Tailpiece. All best.
I did the exact same thing! Never thought of mentioning it to anyone, good to know I'm not alone on that.. never liked that steep break angle from the bridge to the tail piece, seems excessive for no reason. I don't like the overwrap either, the windings at the end of the strings cut into your palm. Nice going!
Thanks@@leadfoot64 Think more people should try it, works a treat and can vary it with how many/thickness of s/s washers.
Also add more to one side if want to slightly adjust the level for the strings. Regards
I swapped out the abr bridge on my ‘99 LP Classic for a Fabre because the materials and saddles are closer to ‘59 spec, big difference. Another key ingredient is replacing the steel thumb wheels and bridge posts with brass parts, and of course a lightweight aluminum tailpiece (Kluson).
Or a Faber tailpiece 🙂
Also the Theodore. I am very happy I couldn't afford a Gibson LP until 2020 after the new leadership was in place. I have a 60s standard and the only change I made to it was putting some historic spec wider top saddles on it that I bought form a guy off one of the forums for $40. I think it made a subtle but distinct difference and is totally reversable. While it does have an ABR-1 bridge it does have the metal bushing inserts. All things considered I'd take the vintage ABR-1 mounting method but I don't have any complaints. Nice information man. I didn't know why the Nashville style was flipped until today.
Thanks for watching! Yeah a lot of bad Gibsons out there from the 2000s to then
I don't mean to offend, but the ABR-1's screws don't face the pups because you can't get in there with a screwdriver. You actually can. The intonation screws face the pups because if they were opposite, the break angle of the string would to HIT the screw. because it sticks out from the body of the bridge. Then you'd have to raise the stop bar just to prevent that from happening. It's simply a string/clearance issue if you mount the bridge that way. Also, as long as we're talking about this rarely talked about stuff, it should be said that the reason the stop bar is adjustable in height is to accommodate slightly different neck angles. By having it adjustable, in the event of a guitar with too steep of a neck angle, the adjustment allows you to raise the bar so the strings don't hit the back of bridge, regardless of what bridge is used.
No offense taken! I appreciate your insight. Thank you for adding more useful info 🤘🤘
Having the intonation set on a guitar is paramount to an instrument being playable, it is not something only professionals should be concerned about. Also a good thing to learn how to set yourself. Intonation needs to be adjusted when you change string gauge also. Just my $0.02.
Totally agree
On electric guitar the acoustic resonance contributes almost 0 to the tone as the magnet only picks up the vibration of the metallic string and not anything that comes out of the wood. This wood resonance might be audible acoustically but does not really affect the string vibration and if it does, it does not do it in a meaningful way.
Yeah... this is about the feel. Ive never showed up to a show saying the guitarists bridge sounds really good
Yep, switched the Schaller rolling bridge on my 1999 Heritage H-150 for a Faber a couple of years ago and never looked back.
I added the Faber tone lock to my 2020 les Paul and it is 100% a game changer and is now a standard upgrade for any Gibson guitar I get
NICE!!
My only problem with the ABR-1 is the damned retaining wire which can often rattle. Yes, you can try bending it, place nail polish on it, etc. But sometimes nothing you do works. The only solution is a bridge without the wire.
The only LP (style) guitar I have with an ABR-1 bridge is a Japanese Tokai (I have 5 LPs). It's the most resonant of the five and I put that down, in part, to the bridge. I may well try out that kit on my others. Thanks.
Very good and informative video! Also you have a wonderful voice and presentation method. I've subscribed.
Welcome aboard! Thanks so much
I have an old Gibson ES-175 Archtop that has a wooden bridge like the one in the video. I wasn't sure if I wanted to play it with flatwound or roundwound strings. I got some brand of Tune-o-matic bridge (I think it has a wire) for it so I wouldn't need to modify the original wooden bridge for a plain or wound 3rd string. Both round and flat strings sounded good, but I lost the traditional Archtop sound with the round strings. So, I switched back to the original wooden bridge. I have not noticed any wood compression on the bridge saddle due to string pressure.
In that case, ya gotta keep it!
Sitting at about 50 guitars, I have every bridge/tail piece imaginable. The thing that has always bothered me about my Gibson's, is intonating the B string. I've had to reverse the saddle to get that last little bit of string break and move it all the way back to get close.
You are crazy, welcome to the club. We are'nt "Crazy" crazy just have much more accute senses, you hear and feel the difference between one design/materials and others. Thumbs up to "Faber" they nailed the bridges and stop bar for Gibson. ABR -1 works for me and my 335. I got a wrap-around Faber for a Les Paul special which felt and sounded a bit dull and thuddy. The Faber is made from better quality materials, as soon as I replaced the "Compensated" one-piece wrap around bridge with the Faber the treble returned, the clarity improved and it actua felt better to play. It must be the basic raw materials that improve playabilty and tone. Thanks for the video, the bridge is where vibrations meet the Guitars body it must be critical to get it right.
I have tried tons of bridges, aluminum, ABR, Nashville, wrapping, etc.... And never noticed a large enough difference. Personal opinion and experience.
Hallo, ich sehe in der Titel Beschreibung keinen nicknamen wo mit dem anfangssymbol ( @ ) beginnt? Und auch dass fehlende # bei den Beschreibungen?
My '97 LP Special has the old style ABR with the screw right into the wood and a wire on the screws. Best sounding guitar ever. It has all kinds of timbre and resonance. I jam hard packing foam down in the saddle in the spaces to stop the rattle.
I have a couple of newer Gibsons that came with the Nashville post in stud. The big problem with the new stuff is that it's made of steel which is shrill sounding to my ear. I replace the bridge and posts with brass which is more even and warm like the older kit.
I didn't know about this one piece kit, but it makes sense and I'll probably try one. Rock on.
yeah man! There is just something about how the guitar responds with this bridge. I am not a fan of the steel stuff either. Bell brass is where its at!
I find it depends on the guitar, really. I changed the whole TOM setup on my 2010 LP to a Faber kit, with the iNsert posts. And it really transformed that guitar for the better. My 78 Custom had a collapsed bridge so I changed that to a Faber ABR1 (didn't change the posts) but had problems with intonation. Changed that to a Tonepros Nashville style and its much better now. It resonates beautifully even with the Nashville bushings so I don't feel the need to convert it to the conversion posts. Same fir my 86 Custom, the bridge is great as is, no need to change it. So, as I said, in my experience, it depends on the guitar...
If you love it now try stainless frets, I try to put them on everything I get such a big difference and very inspirational feel makes me want to play all the time
That is a truly gorgeous Les Paul. Great video bro 🔥
Great info and that Les Paul is beautiful!
Thanks Michael!
I put a BABICZ FCH TUNE-O-MATIC (Full Contact Hardware) bridge and tailpiece on my 2018 Gibson Les Paul Tribute (non weight-relieved) guitar and it made a huge difference in sustain and tone IMO, and it's fully adjustable for string height and intonation.
It seems like the better option for a solid mount that will transfer the sound better is to choose the larger side of the shaft for the threads. Either the post has large threads into the anchor with a shelf for the bridge, or the wheel threads onto the post with smaller thread and acts as a shelf for the bridge. I guess you could argue that both bridges have the same downward force, but the ABR1 has less threaded contact area to translate the force through, so it has a more solid contact surface to pass through. Yeah that kinda makes sense now how the smaller thread would feel and sound more like a solid piece now. Sorry for thinking out loud in my comment but I'll submit it in case anyone else was thinking along those lines. Or for an engineer to correct/confirm? Please lol
Steve…my only point of reference is my PRS McCarty…it has the ABR style bridge and I can honestly say that guitar rings like a bell…not sure if that is the ONLY reason, but I’m sure it helps…I have to agree, there is something lost with the Nashville stud type bridge…great stuff my brother!!!!
Thanks Eddie! There really is a great feel to them. I think the connection makes a huge difference
Ted McCarty also designed the Les Paul guitar. Seth Lover designed the humbucking pickup. I know you were reading from the Wikipedia page. McCarty instructed Lover to design that.
ABR bridges tend to lean over. The Nashville is a better bridge. It doesn’t matter how many pieces of metal there is.
Thanks for the additional info. Better is always subjective
Everything matters.
I just bought a Faber USA ABR bridge. Fantastic
Great stuff!!
Rather than 'hammering it in', 'gently' tap it in with a rubber or nylon hammer.
You Dang Skippy. I just adjusted my Axtion and put a ne set of strings on one of my Pauls and i love it again. I do need to do the intonation as the Harmonics are off a wee bit, but just raising action, and new strings make all the difference in the world. No more Buzz, and because i do a lot of bending, i'm not bottoming out. First time drive by, and sub. Hey Steve.
You have a point, and I have a similar attitude about machine heads with threaded bushes, BUT, the deeper the studding is set, the better the resonance? If the studding went right through the body in the manner of a long bolt, the results would be even better, I imagine...
Ha ha ha ha !!!
Interesting! After 20 years of playing guitar and owning five different electrics I didn't realize that originally TOM briges didn't use the threaded inserts. On most of my guitars with TOM bridge I've got the import style variant which even bigger inserts and adjustment bolts. Absolutely indestructible. I see how the acoustic properties of the original style is supposed to be better. With an electric guitar, the real question is: Does it make any difference through an amplifier? I'd love to see a video about that.
If you tweak a lot electric guitars with different hardware where it counts (bridge, nut,... ) you will definately find a difference.
One thing I've found is that swapping parts is even more noticable on sound on high quality guitars.
You hear the change on modest guitars, but it's crazy how a high quality guitar react to every change, strings, picks, bridge, tailpiece..
I've recently swapped the trem springs on my Fender AVRI Stratocaster, Raw Vintage, that are spongier and made of another material.
It transformed the sound, feel and playability of the guitar.. not better, in fact very different.
It's very interesting
Its probably like anything else, subjective to the player. I personally like how guitars feel and play with the small posts. Is it in my head? No idea. But it definitely makes me play more inspired. So does that mean it sounds better if I play better? No idea! Lol
@@SteveSterlacciDefinitely. Changes make the guitar more like your guitar, and helps in most cases to bond with it even more.
I feel that when you keep a guitar for many years, and play it a lot, it ages to your hands and playing style, like and old couch that feels so comfortable😉
Macarthy did bridges, but I thought Seth Lover was the pickup inovator guy at Gibson like for the PAF's.
I have an ESP that had those AB1 type bridges - Sounded thin and sustain was ok - switched out for the Nashville type for a more founded / ridged connection to the body and massively improved the sound and sustain.
Whatever works I guess.
I have a Schecter solo ii blackjack. I wonder if a bridge mod would benefit the guitar sound. I am a drummer primarily, so very ignorant to guitar hardware.
lol, my fellow guitarists so often remind me of audiophiles.
No doubt!
Thanks again as always Steve. I will disagree for the first time with you regarding the screw head orientation on the bridge. The string is always in the way and should be loose and off the saddle before adjusting which then allows good access. When the screw heads face the neck then the bridge pickup is in the way. The tailpiece is lower and allows better access from that side. Keep on truckin', Gale
It can be a little more trial and error this way but then avoids potential damage to the saddles and strings. Still friends? 🙃
I didn't make the rules 🤣😅 just what I found from researching. I have it both ways on diff guitars . Still friends!
@@SteveSterlacci thanks, yes it is different on some guitars 🎸 but I think it holds true for most Les Pauls. Glad to see things getting back to normal with the music. Thanks for the Jessica Lynn updates. We are fellow Capricorns, Jessica and I that is.✌️
@@galelongputt thanks for following along! I hope to see you out there soon! Where are you at?!
@@SteveSterlacci Just traveling with my new truck and camper trailer. Sold my house in SanJose(made a bundle) and business and hit the road. Currently in Northern Wisconsin. I have to quit buying guitars though I am running out of space 😮💨. 3 with me, 3 at my brothers house ( ebony Theodore, signed ebony Dave Mustaine Songbird) 7 in storage back in California. On the road for a year now. Thinking about moving in with you 🤣🤣🤣
You can also stay with Nashville style, but try brass studs.
Good call!
a link to the abr-1 you are using would be nice to see, noticed you talking about it but no link to that particular model
Thanks for checking it out! Look at Fabers website. They have all options for different guitars... YT doesn't allow links in comments, but I'll look into adding it to description
Nice TP-6! I put those on all my Les Pauls
I love the look!
If you wanna check out the conversion kits for your own guitar, I bought mine here faberusa.com - not a sponsored link or affiliate. just a fan!
I only use the ABR-1 bridge on all of my Gibson pattern guitars.
It should also be noted, the metallurgy/composition of the alloy used in the Nashville's body casting is very different from what is used in the original ABR-1, most consider the Nashville's composition inferior to the ABR-1. Saddles of the Nashville are also different (IMO inferior).
Another thing, I've installed a couple ABR-1 bridges on R9 builds I've been lucky enough to work on, the threaded rod/posts that supports the ABR-1 are installed to a depth that fully penetrates the maple top bottoming out in the mahogany body.
The main reason Gibson made the switch to the Nashville style bridge was lower unit cost and ease of assembly/manufacturing.
Great content, thank you for the video. 👍
@@hkguitar1984 great addition! Thank you for adding
@@SteveSterlacci 👍😉
Thanks Steve, I got educated on this one. Now after work I gotta see whats on my LP.. Oh BTW thanks for the advice on the pedal board. I did get one with a built in power supply.. much easier. Have a good day.
Cool in depth video. I like your Les Paul, What is it? I'm guessing it's a supreme.
Thanks man! Its pre supreme. Its a limited edition custom from '79. I pinned a comment to the full video about it
I agree plugged holes with wood dowels and got aluminum tailpiece and it sounds amazing
Once you have the height of the tunamatic set, make 2 bushings to sit under the tunamatic so you get tone transfer lost by the air gap.
Interesting idea+
PRS started in 1985.
The first PRS I saw was in 1983 Santana played one at the US Festival.
Yep! Sounds about right
Not 100 percent sure, but machine parts can rattle. The abr 1 is good, but those thin screws will flex-that may be why the Nashville bridge came to be.
Okay, Steve. Good job. I've had a real jury-rigged bridge assembly on my FF338 since I installed a roller bridge, so I ordered one of these conversion kits. Really surprised their shipping charge is nominal compared to most of these places! This should be the last upgrade I'll make to it (until I come up with another lol). 🎸🎸🎸
I think you'll love it even more with that set up!
Your les Paul is my dream guitar.
Thanks!! Mine too
I just bought a 2023 Gibson Lp standard 60s. I’ve never had a guitar with this much sustain. I can’t imagine it having more. I best focus on my mediocre playing 😁
I was a bit confused after watching this, because you never really just come right out and say it… But what I’m getting is that you prefer the ABR1-style stud mounting, but as for the actual bridge saddle section, you prefer the Nashville… Is that right? thx
Pretty spot on assessment. I will still choose the old style as long as it has the small mounts into the body every time though
Honestly, if you make a claim about tone change and sustain you should record it and see if you’re right. Confirmation bias gets the best of us and since this is a big deal to do this to an expensive guitar, feel alone may not be enough.
You cant really quanitify feel that I'm describing here. I think too many factors affect sustain specifically
@@SteveSterlacci oh I agree about the feel. You can only describe it as you’ve done. What I was referring to is a simple sustain test to see if it adds sustain. Same with tone. You can do a null test and see if any frequencies are added or missing. Just a suggestion though.
Do you have to file the saddles to match the radius or do these come "pre-filed" ? I had my original filed at one point and THAT was a huge difference. I'm looking to replace mine now because the chroming is peeling off and it's actually starting to wear on my hand.
Its pre filed and radius'd
You can by them filed, but double check if ordering online!
Its so much better with the TOM pros bridge is routed into the guitar. The floating style can bend/warp after after a while and it feels/plays way better. Its like top wrapping, but better. You can find a video on here with Joe Walsh pointing that spec out on his carvin. He said, "he could get Gibson to build it like that." For him.
I like a roller bridge, they feel great while palm muting because they don’t have sharp edges. I personally don’t think one is getting more sustain than the other.
Consider me INFLUENCED! 😎 👍🏼
🤗🤗🤗
excellent!
hey Steve , what tail piece are you using on your les paul ? I have a 2018 Gibson Les Paul Standard and I'm thinking it's a Nashville Bridge ( now I want an ABR after this video LoL ) also it looks like you have a brass nut on your guitar. Thanks for the good info 👍👍
Yeah man! Its called a TP6. I linked a full length video on the guitar in my pinned comment if you wanna see more of it and the story. Its super unique and 1 of 24
@@SteveSterlacci Thank You Sir 👍. I’m definitely going to read up on that 😂😂👍
I just pre drill wood dowels and put them in makes a big difference
Is that all it takes?
I watched your whole video and honestly I'm still confused. I owned a couple early-2000's Les Paul Classics which had a nice bridge. I also owned a R8 Vos and a 2016 Traditional. They all had pluses and minuses, and I think the bridge style was a pretty small factor in playability in tone, all things considered. Right now my main Les Paul is a FGN Custom which has a Gotoh tune-o-matic. I think it has the bwst resonance of any tune-o-matic I've ever owned.
Very interesting. i never saw than this way. I preferred the nashville for the studs looked bigger... biggre metal insert seemed a good idea to me, but you make a point that may be very true :)
I apologize for making a big deal about when Gibson introduced the retaining wire for the saddles on the original ABR-1. It was pretty much irrelevant to the video. And I would like to agree that the ABR-1 sounds better to me than the Nashville style bridge. I recently got a dirt cheap LP knockoff in a pawnshop and the reason it was so cheap was that the bridge was placed too close to the nut and it played sharp up and down the neck. I have been building solid body guitars since the mid 1970s and I thought that maybe I would just strip the guitar for parts for my next project. But the guitar sounds really good so I tried to fix the intonation by replacing the bridge with a wider Gotoh bridge that I got from Stew-Mac. (Years ago when Stew-Mac used to mail out paper catalogs I used to buy these Gotoh bridges in lots of six for about $15 apiece.) The fix worked, but the guitar didn’t sound nearly as good. So I took the original bridge, which was an Asian ABR-1 copy, and simply turned it around and the guitar not only sounded great again, but it also played in tune. I still have a few of those Gotoh bridges in my parts stash, and I don’t don’t think I’ll use them on my future projects. From now on, it’s strictly ABR-1 style bridges for me.
The real secret to tone and feel is whether your pickguard is on or off. It depends on the particular guitar, too.
I think everyone knows that. Followed closely behind truss rod cover material
SteveSterlacci, what Gibson Les Paul is that you are holding?
Limited Edition 1979 Custom. I have a whole video on it!
jep, got one. it keeps tilting. i string it topwound bonamassa style to lower breakangle. my main has nashville style bridge studs, keeps the tone and has Amber pickups. man THOSE made a difference.
It should not be tilting! Id double check the sizes. I'll look into those pickups!
@@SteveSterlacci no it shouldnt. maybe i hit to hard.
behind amber pus is the guy who invented the p94 for gibson. made in germany. also nowaxx is a up and coming boutique maker. all up there with the usual suspects and above. cheers!
@@SteveSterlacci It's common for them to tilt. That's why Nashville bridges were developed.
I love the video. I am just left not knowing about the stop bar. It doesn't look stock, but I am not a Gibson expert. It looks interesting, like it does more than just hold strings. I don't know what else is necessary, but I learn new things all the time.
Hey thomas! Thanks for checking it out. Its called a "TP6" and those are micro tuners. They were popular in the late 70s Norlin era Gibsons. Check out a BB King Lucille and youll see the most popular one
If you have a nashville bridge you need to change it out for the Faber. My nashville bushings were literally pulled out by hand.
Wow What color due you call that LP
It’s beautiful!
Limited edition 1979 custom
Great video as always Steve. Many people feel that the ABR1 sounds better than the Nashville bridge because of the additional mass of the wider Nashville bridge. This is also why some people go hunting for lighter weight stop talis. The longer travel of the saddles on a Nashville sounds like a good thing on paper, but in reality, if you are playing a decent quality guitar (ie: bridge mounted in the right place), that longer travel shouldn't be necessary. With a good guitar, if you can't get your guitar to intonate, there is usually something else wrong, like really old strings, worn nut slots, worn saddles, etc. I actually had a luthier tell me he had to reposition my bridge (pull the studs, fill the holes and redrill in the "right place"), when in reality, all I needed was new saddles. (Glad I didn't let him touch my guitar.) If everything else is OK, an ABR1 should intonate properly (and not at the extreme edges of the bridge either). One problem with the ABR1 is that the threaded rods can bend over time. The Nashville mounting system is sturdier. This (I think) is why Gibson now uses a hybrid on their regular production line Les Pauls. The actual bridge is essentially an ABR1, but the mount is a modified version of the Nashville, made to fit the ABR1 bridge holes. I changed from a Nashville to an ABR1 on my SG Classic using conversion posts that screw into the Nashville bushings (Philadelphia Lutherie sells them). I am not sure that I can hear the difference, but becasue I am so used to the look of older guitars, it just looks better to me. Would replacing the separate bushings and post with a combined bushing/post assembly like you used on your guitar make a sonic difference? Maybe? But there is so much MOJO (ie: rumor, folklore, B.S.) involved in these sorts of upgrades that it is impossible to know until you do the upgrade/mod and listen for a change.
Yeah man! I think its just a better feel under the fingers. So if the feel is better, it makes me play better, thus sounding better as a player. So thats enough to sell me. And i never wanted to modify this guitar as its really my favorite lol
If you double up on the flat threaded thumb wheels the post bending issue should be resolved.
Who intonates with old strings?🤔🙄😕
I always thought that thin screw was a cheep piece of hardware. I never considered that it was designed that way for max tone! Thanks for the video. I have 2 Paul's and a 335 that has the small post.
It wasn’t designed for max tone. It’s just what they had on hand. Like he said, the individuals designing these instruments weren’t guitarists half of them were engineers. The design was later improved upon and became the Nashville style TOM, fixing the issues and short comings of the ABR1. This difference does not affect tone.
You probably believe that the type of wood doesn’t change the sound 😂
What I’ve been looking for is a longer tune o matic that can handle more intonation movement. Like another 1/4” would be good. I have an issue on my sg where the d string needs another 1/8” or so to intonate but nooooooo doesn’t go back any further. Weee
If you can't flip the saddle to get another 1/8", get a Nashville Tune - O Matic.
I did all the swapping parts on a new 2023 R9 but its just a dark sounding guitar, not my bag, will probly trade it for an older one that is brighter. I use the Faber ABR-1 n Antiquity`s...the best sound so far.
I totally agree. The ABR-1 is far superior, never was a fan of the little wire holding in the screws....how lame. My 2011 Les Paul has the same bridge as yours! Rock on Bro....
At 4:44 the issue is actually the length of the string. It’s a bad design. The break angle probably doesn’t have enough pressure on the bridge. Good video have a good day
the guitar in your thumbnail has the tail piece too low. the strings should not touch the back of the bridge. you'll also find that raising the tail piece until the strings no longer touch the back of the bridge improves playability as well as a better sound. that supreme you have is gorgeous! imo, they are the most beautiful guitars ever made.
Thanks! Its pre supreme. Its a limited edition custom from '79. Check out the video in the pinned comment where I cover it all
@@SteveSterlacci thanks for the heads up! i definitely will.
Yeah my ABR1 is starting to lean so I have to add more thumb wheels to correct. None of my ABR6's do this and I don't notice any difference in tone or sustain. This is witchcraft at this point.
It’s 2024 can they not design nuts and saddles any better? It’s such a crucial piece of the instrument .
Nice Paul...it would've been nice to hear it in the video
An original vintage ABR one is solid brass with brass saddles
You should read the post on the “Les Paul Forum” called “Thanks Maple Flame”! I started it in 2007.
I will check it out! Thanks
Steve…did you tap the holes for the faber inserts to screw into???
They fit in the existing holes and are all one piece. So yes, but no screw necessary
@@SteveSterlacci …awesome, thank you
Thanks for checking it out!
My 2016 Leas Paul Standard has the screws right in the body. It’s my fav Geetar
Very nice!
I have a Harley Benton SC hr. Silver sparkle. It would be cool if I had a kit to modify that one. Could I use that kit for a HB?
' It is virtually impossible to hear a difference in tone with or without anchors, so anchors became the norm. '
I copied and paste this line of the comment of @guitartec because this is soo right what he is saying.
Hearing an amplified difference, most likely true. But how it feels in your hands is absolutely different
@@SteveSterlacci That is true but I thought we were talking here about a different in sound comparing the two bridge attachements.
@Jef-sj6zc I definitely mention I am just crazy thinking it makes a difference 🤣😅🤣. In that case, sure doesn't. I've never watched a player and thought "wow, that bridge mount sounds incredible!"
Is that a Les Paul Supreme? Looks like it has curly maple sides as well as top and back?
It's a limited edition custom from '79. Pre dates the supremes. I have a full video on the channel if u wanna check it out!
I didn’t hear or feel any difference between the two modifications when I tried it..
It really seems like the placebo effect.
Im usually pretty skeptical about this sort of thing. I definitely noticed the difference. But its okay if its not your thing!
I do prefer the look of the ABR posts though. As long as they don’t bend im all for it. I just don’t think I can justify converting all my guitars haha