The Secret Gibson Tuning Hack. (Most Don't Know)
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
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Who's going to give this a try?
Doing it now!
Definitely going to try this on next change. Thanks for the video.
Got my MIJ in 90. They put new strings on it that must just barely be about broken in by now. New strings with new ideas are a lot of work.
I've got a Floyd Rose with locking nut on my Les Paul, no issues with tuning stability :D
I strung my Lp like that a couple weeks ago. I'd strung the wound ones like that too, but re did them. What is goin on in the world?
Here’s a helpful hint from somebody who has been playing Gibsons for almost 50 years. When you tune, go below the target pitch and then tune up to pitch. Next, do a whole step bend on each string and tune again. Problem solved.
That one is pretty much a "given".
@@DoktorDamage во-во! но не при норм.колках!
@@DoktorDamage sadly, too many people don't get it.
Nah. I like the guy who has a bunch of followers on you tube’s solution. Thanks though 😂
Gibsons biggest problem…………their price (for me anyway).
Amen Brother
The thing about money is you can save it. My first gibson took me a solid year of saving. I ate less, smoked less weed. Figured out how to make my dream come true. The second one Was a friend who gave me a deal. And the next two were aquired thru trades. In total I spend less than 2000$ on 4 gibsons
The biggest problem is their CEO.
Yes, and they’re not the only brand that has this issue.
It's a bit steep, but worth it. And with inflation, they are still priced as they were in the 50s
If you wind one wrap on the bottom and the rest above the string hole that will lock the string in place, so it won't slip and go out out of tune. It works the same for the rest of the strings only go one wrap above the string and the rest below.
I've found that doing either of the locking moves for all strings, assuming a properly cut and lubed nut, works well for tuning stability for all strings.
I was told that Gibson did change the break angle of the headstock from 17 degrees to 14 degrees years ago, so this may work better on older guitars. Cutting a slight angle in the nut slot where the strings pass through also helped on my SG. Big Bends nut sauce helps as well. I do all three to my SG and it stays in tune very well now.
Akka-Dakka!!!
❤ my sg!
A very slight widening of the nut slow and a line solves most all of the tuning issues that are due to string hang up. Also, you can get staggered tuners in a 3 x 3 configuration which would serve to give a more consistent string to string break angle.
They did that and everyone lost their minds. Gibson customers want 50's specs.
Epis are 14. Gibson 17.
I had an acoustic and a super strat for 15+ years, both of which had tuning problems off and on. I started restringing my guitars this way about 5 years ago after I bought a new Taylor 214 and subsequently watching a video from the Taylor guitar factory on how to maintain your guitar. The tech recommended this same way. Winds go up, don't over lap, don't wind down. I have not had a problem with guitars going out of tune since I started using this method. Had no idea it was the way I was stringing the guitar. I can't speak for a Les Paul, but this stringing method does work.
All the strings wrapped up or only the G string?
I wrap 3 or 4 times before putting the string through the hole. Never had a single issue with stability, and my strings almost never break. Like ever. And I have a crazy attack with either hand.
Was taught that by my guitar teacher back in 1983. This is also how the directions on the old SIT strings say to string your instrument.
Me too, never had any problems in 50 years of doing this method.
I saw this in the last video you made about it a year or two ago. Works like a charm!!!! It's amazing how simple and effective this works. Also... saw your video on the Music City Bridge "the savvy." I play left handed and they didn't make them lefty at the time. They said they would make some in lefty! Fast forward to yesterday and I got my bridge for my Junior!!! Now my junior has perfect intonation and better sustain. I just had to say thanks!!!! I would have never known about that bridge if not for your channel!!!!
This winding helped me…also, I tried some gun oil in the nut slots…wow…it made a huge difference…that is the most slippery stuff I have ever found👍
I discovered this after buying an old 50s Gibson some years ago. This guitar’s tuner posts are so short that winding up is the only way you can do it.
I only realized after a couple weeks or so that the guitar was holding tune really well. So I tried winding up the problem strings on a couple other guitars. It helps!
Another good hack is attaching a string tree. No holes drilling needed. Just take out the truss rod cover screw and put the string tree in there. It keeps the G and D more straight, then you can "wind" the B strings upwards.
Great video BTW !!!
Well that settles it. If winding the G and B strings upwards is good enough for you, then it's good enough for me. Thank you for this tip, I'm anxious to give it a try and tame that G once and for all. Love your videos, man!
did this work?
Oh man, you hit it. I've noticed this since 1977, when I bought my fist LP. It seems like something musicians don't want to talk about.
The issues with tuning stability is often nut wear or nut to post angle tolerances including string gauges not being the best fit in the nut slots/height etc, it's worth spending the time to get it perfect, as long as the tuning keys are also adjusted or made of good materials internally too, it's a fairly easy fix, about 2/3 rotations on the post are better than 4-6 because of the contraction and expansion factor, -this also includes the post no less.
Using a wound string to carefully re-cut or clean the nut slot prior to string change helps too, just a few gentle sweeps back and forth cleans the slot and it's gentler than most fret files too, the nut should be top quality, plastic or similar is too prone to wear, use bone wherever possible or a similar top quality nut only properly cut and post angled to suit the string rest angle on the post after the 2-4 winds because that is the truer angle.
Cool video and a great tip! I prefer Grover locking tuners on everything Gibson I own. Zero tuning issues here for over 15 years. You’re welcome. 👍🏻
Great! Thanks. Just wish I saw your actual method of the wind from the beginning, but I guess I'll do it my old way and try to go up.
Just came across your video. Thanks for this advice, it’s just what I needed. Just checked the G, B and E strings on my Gibson and they are wound on the bottom of the tuning pegs. I’ve had terrible trouble with the B and E strings staying in tune. I’ll try this hack when I change the strings (soon). All the best from the UK.
After looking for my current LP Standard, I've begun to just be able to tell if the nut is cut correctly at a glance. The D and G need to be cut at a slight angle and once you see 100 Gibsons, you see it from 5 feet away.
For the G, B, high E stability, because they're not wound, it actually helps to just give them extra slack (and on a Fender with vintage tuners, maybe don't even cut the high E). The unwound strings have less friction and slip easier but it's solved with more windings.
I’ve been doing this forever by accident and never understood why people were struggling so much.
Yeah. I give the high strings an extra couple of winds. Somewhere between 1-2 extra loops.... have no tuning issues with Epiphone and Gibson.
My only problem is in winter, the big temperature changes means i need to tune or at least check tuning every time i pick up the guitar.
Extra winds introduces more space for string to slack and not go back to tune.
I have a couple of Epiphone Les Pauls and I do this which helps, but also found swapping the bridge for a roller bridge improved tuning stability.
I top wrap all the strings on my Gibsons, not just the G. Makes them all consistent, less break angle. It’s a good hack for sure!
I think lubing the nut with big bends or graphite helps a lot too. Sometimes I lock wrap the string as well. Although the biggest aid is making sure the nut slots are cut well with a luthier/tech set up
Thanks for the tip, will try it.
Nut lube, locking tuners, and I widen the nut slots about .005" helps also.
In 60 years of playing I never did it that way, but I am going to try it. I have some other issue with the nut binding on the strings that I also have to deal with.. Thanks for the tip.
Great tip! I have a new LP standard and it seems like they had a good day in the set-up dept. the nut is cut perfectly. The G string goes a bit flat if the guitar sits for a while. Definitely will try this out.
Interesting tip! Thanks I’ll try it.
Man……I tried this on my epiphone es-335 pro….on the g,but and high e…wow. Did this and put graphite /vaseline on the nut. Like a different guitar now. Stays in tune way better and better overall. I was nearly gonna sell it despite it playing great and excellent tone. Thanks for a legit awesome hack!
Thanks! I'll try this on my dot 335!
I put a Les Trem nit, and the G string no likey.
I can see how the G string angles bit down and sideways, and that this would reduce the down part.
Thanks, Robert! Very helpful!!!
Great tip, Robert. I have put the String Butler on my Les Paul, SG, and 335 and it is AMAZING!! The strings pull through the nut at a perfectly straight angle and rest at a better break-angle at the tuning peg. Great innovation
String butler user here too, on my Hamer Special. This is the one fix that did work after a small list of other failed attempts. Yes, it's a gadget, but it's a non-damaging addition to the guitar. To me, this is the definitive answer to less than ideal 3v3 headstock designs.
It never made sense to me. Increase friction points to lower friction. Sounds like perpetual motion machine for string tuning.
@@Les537 Yet it worked for me. There's probably some friction, but it's on a rounded surface and the strings go through the nut in a straight way, which is the far bigger friction point. Hey, string trees also never made a strat difficult to tune...
Excellent! I assume the reasoning for the low winding is to decrease the lateral load on the tuning post. But I've been wrong before. 😎
Very interesting I can see how that would make less of a break angle will give it a shot.
Thanks for the quick no bs video much appreciated!
Gotoh locking tuners, vintage buttons, LP looks the same from the front and tuning stability is great!
That’s very interesting. Will try it on next string change. Cheers!
Thank you for this valuable tip Robert! I will surely test this on my LP next time I'll be changing strings. Thank you for the bluesy LOTR ending too! I play that theme bluesy too at times. Great melody! 🙂
Ending it LOTR style was a nice surprise. My favorite stories of all time! Love it!
Way cool.. okay ,I'll try that. I don't seem to have that issue ,but what a great idea! I got a 82 standard and a Heritage series. Great video thank you
Hi Robert. Thanks for useful information! Would any issues arise if all the guitar strings are wound up?
An interesting advice, thank you will try it bit later!
Awesome Suggestion I will try that right away
Very Cool, Thankyou. Awesome Fix. All the Best. Cheers
Thank you Robert for showing this again. Love it! Been “dousing the nut in graphite for years! 👍👍
Happy New Year! 🙏💙🎉
Thank you! Wish I knew about this a long time ago.
Never thought of winding the other direction. I’m trying this next string change. That dam G. I never use to think about it much it was the norm. Until I started playing PRS. I don’t know if I just got lucky with the ones I got or if they just stay in tune better. Now I notice my good ole Les Paul needs G tuned about every two songs. Great video Robert thanks for the info. 👍✌️
Thanks for the great G and B string winding tip!!
Great idea RB!!!!
Hi Robert . Hope you're doing well . Great tip . Thanks for sharing this . 🎸
This is good advice for DIY. As it turns out I'm also revving up to make a video about stringing up guitars, although it will be more geared towards techs. The problem with the Gibson headstock is the unnecessarily severe headstock break angle. Epiphone guitars have a much better headstock break angle. That's just my opinion.
**I dealt with this forever and went round and round before I finally called Gibson. I sent it in and they re-did the set up and sent it back. Plays like a completely different guitar and has amazing tuning stability!! I was literally about to sell the guitar. Now I love it! The guitar had 3 local set-ups from reputable shop before I sent it to Gibson that never cured the issue.
Brilliant!!! Love it. Thanks
Never seen this tip. I'll give it a try next time I change strings. Thanks Robert!
Thanks for the tip ❤❤❤❤
Bend the left-over string up like vertical when winding.:) Yet im going to try this thx
Just widened the nut slots and lube them I use a the thin fingernail file get some 1000 grit sand paper cut and fold the sandpaper then put the file inside the paper and widened the slots if the slot is to high you can lower them this way to lube them no tuning problems.
I've always tuned my strings on top but all my LP's now have locking tuners i have stretch and bend all day on those and they stay pretty close to perfect in tune. And of course string changes are so quick.
Very Cool! I'm trying it!
it helped me a LOT on my Gretsch white falcon
This technique works great on 3/3, but it also works on an inline 6 headstock. The simple fact is, the straighter you can make your string from the bridge to the tuning peg, the better off it is, the more in tune it will stay, and the longer it will last.
So do you wind all your strings above the string hole?
This worked incredibly well on my LPC!
Thank you very much. A very good video.
The higher break angle also adds friction on the nut. Please compare to different nuts and lubed nuts. thanks.
Nice! Have a Revstar 320 3 aside the G has that problem like Gibson's, I will try It next year when I change strings. Haha
I have an LP Standard made in '21, and they cut the nut so that the slots are not straight, they are angled towards the tuners. There's still factory lacquer on the nut sides so it came that way from Gibson too. I haven't really had any tuning issues. IDK if any other recent guitars have or don't have this feature.
Thanks Robert 👍
🤔gotta try this!!! Thank you sir 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻
Great tip - thanks
Here is the secret, YES the nut slots need lubed up....I use graphite from a pencil & razor scraped into a white lithium grease or a moly grease....I'm switching to moly in the moment personally. BUT making the hybrid grease and graphite lube for the slots......and the on each post and string wrap....I moly lube there liberally to get it into the wrap and post.......so when tensioning the strings....the tension exists behind the nut and this eliminates HANGS that affect tuning. AT the Tail Piece with a stop bar and ABR bridge....I like to overwrap on the stop bar as for the bridge break angle and taming the action tension I feel with my fingers.......So the nut break angle could be manipulated too. BUT then again I tune down to full "D" so the strings get slinky and full of tone when running a heavy guage for the MASS in the PU magnetic field. BUT then again I deal with electronics and have my own "stuff" and tricks of the trade
Thanks for the tip, Robert. I need all the help I can get.
Very interesting. I have a number of LP’s and Gibsons and really don’t have the tuning issue - any more than on any other guitars with 3 and 3 pegs - but I will try this next time I change strings. LOVE the the LOTR melody! Made me smile!!! HUGE LOTR fan here…Happy New Year and have a great day!
I've been playing old Gibsons for years and never really had a tuning problem.
It works as there will be less force on the nut but I do not know. A three over three design demands an nut that is cut to follow the direction of the string but in many cases slots are cut dead straight often unecessary deep and also as tight causing an nipping. I will depending on the nut reshape the slots or as I have dune on my Lp a brass nut made to cure this very problem and it works I would say perfect.
Ending it bluesy….Frodo style. Awesome Robert! Thanks for the stringing tip. Will try it on my Schecter’s next time. ✌🏻🤟🏼
You know how when you re-string your guitar and during the first tune you stretch, tune, stretch, tune, until the stretch doesn't take it out of tune anymore. When you do that you are set pretty much for the gig? But then of course days later this isn't the case anymore. Constant tuning problems return. Well, everyone I show this to is blown away even if they've played for 40 years. Didn't know. So, if your guitar, after behaving for that first jam or gig, after re-stringing and stretching during tune, it now doesn't, AND IT'S SAT FOR A FEW DAYS, do the stretch again, you'll find it doesn't hold. So quickly stretch, tune, stretch, tune, until it stays again after a stretch. Something about sitting for a few days ...temp changes or something? Not sure but every single person I've ever showed this to 1) didn't realize that happened after siting for a few days and 2) finally solves their tuning issues (baring some other bad tuning machine or tight nut or something).
I had a tuning issue with my les paul until I had the nut properly cut for my string guage ...factories put on lighter strings and if you use a heavier guage...the string will bind at the nut unless it is filed
I always have wound the strings by doing 1 loop under then the rest of loops over the string! Helps keep them in tune better! Especially on cheap guitars!
Definitely trying!
I created a finger style arrangement for that song, and that’s one of my favorite songs to play on guitar.
I'll give this a try next string change. Thanks for the tip!
Never thought about it, but this actually makes a lot of sense. i'm going to try it the next time I'm restringing one of my Gibsons. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Tried it today, but can't say it's a success. It makes the string change of the g-string more complicated because of the excess part of the string that has to go under the string, a lot more chance to scratch up the headstock. And i don't feel like the g-string holds tune better, in fact I have the feeling it goes out of tune faster. Maybe it will work for some, but I'm not going to do this again.
I would have liked to hear why you think this improves stability. Reducing the string angle has put more load on the tuning peg and reduced the load on the nut. Normally you want it the other way around (at both ends). Doing this maybe has allowed the string to slide more smoothly through the slot, so maybe the string is binding in the slot of the nut. Would be interesting to see a close up of the slots with strings tensioned up. Cutting a bit of relief at the back of the slots can help, the B and G have fair bit of tension and have to bend around a corner to get to the posts.
I do have a trick. The g string binding issue I solve by at the last bit of the nut, facing the headstock, I file a slight angle towards the g string tuner. Very slight. All my guitars stay in tune fine but my Les Paul stays in tune better than any of my Fenders. I play for a living.
Spot on Robert! Been doing this for years on my LP's- and a little 'nut sauce' on the nut for the G..... never had issues so far......👍
Thank you! I definitely will give this a go the next time I restring.
Thanks!
The way I restring a guitar makes locking tuners redundant. 1, strings through the hole...2, string goes to the right....3, string goes under the string (going into the hole) and back anti- clockwise....4, tighten tuning peg, trapping string under string.... I do a full turn, and that's it. I never get string slip, and if you break a string, it's easy and quick to change....
no big problems with lp jr and midtown custom after little filed down and widen gaps in uppernuts for strings from the side of machineheads.
I have a String Butler on my SG. It's amazing. I bought the guitar, used it and it works.
Ice been doing this on my Les Paul for years, but I need to do it on my SG Special. Thanks for the reminder!
I will try this next time. My Les Paul stays in tune very well. I have one of those clip-on digital tuners; even if the guitar is not plugged in, it reads the strings and notes, and is now a permanent fixture of my Les Paul head. I highly recommend putting one at the end of your guitar.
Don't leave it on there when you're not using it. The foam can burn through your nitrocellulose.
this is soooo going to help ease my journey towards that platinum selling album I'm going to record someday.
This is news to me! I’m gonna try it. Thanks !
My Les Paul HP wouldn’t hold tune, especially the G string, until I added a touch of gun oil to the nut ( titanium nut). Fixed the problem. I had already changed out the auto tuners to a set of standard tuners.
Also, I moved to a 9.5 to 46 set , up from 9-44. 10’s are too much for me.
My les paul studio (1991) has shaller locking tuners. I bought it that way. I haven't made up my mind about them yet. I think I've changed strings three times. I'm gonna start paying more attention
This is one of the best tricks of the trade and works as well with Martin-style acoustic headstocks
Happy New Year!!!
I have always done this never had any tuning issues and always use forward preload go flat then tune up never down.
Great tip
I tried this before and still had tuning problems. I decided to try the string butler. At first I thought it was ugly but got very use to it when my guitar stayed in tune. It directs the strings straight over the nut like the direction on a Fender.
I do it on all six strings Robert ever since I saw the first show that you did on it that with the top wrap on the tail piece and properly cut nut no tuning issues on any of my Les pauls
Thank you Robert. You fixed my SG, les paul, and 345 tuning woes with nothing but better technique. Thank you
Thinking of doing this next time i string up my lp, did you just wind the g up or all the unwound strings?
never had an issue with mine for decades. the real secret is buying a good one. I also know how to wind my strings properly, this works for any guitar pretty much
I've always wondered why Gibson went with such a steep head stock angle. I guess it's the 3x3 tuners that require it. Then there's fenders that don't need a scarf joint but need a string tree. Why couldn't they both have come up with an angle somewhere in the middle and used staggered tuners to compensate any break angle adjustments?