OEM vs Aftermarket Ball Joints
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- Опубліковано 11 гру 2016
- Here's a break down comparison on how a ball joint works, and the differences between the OEM and aftermarket design.
A ball joint is a suspension component that is used where three-axis rotation is required. Normally it would connect the control arms to the steering knuckle of the car. On a McPherson front suspension setup, there is one lower ball joint, while on a double wishbone front suspension setup, there's an upper and lower ball joint.
As a result, ball joints can wear down over time and have to be replaced. Failure to replace it can lead to the suspension dismembering itself, and the wheel to come apart from the vehicle.
This video opens up an OEM ball joint and an aftermarket and takes a look at the differences in components inside. The OEM ball joints typically use a metal ball stud with a plastic bearing, while the aftermarket ball joint use a metal stud with a sintered metal bearing.
However, the OEM ball joints are typically sealed, non serviceable components, while the aftermarket ball joints come with a grease fitting. A sintered metal bearing must be periodically greased for it to outlast an OEM ball joint.
Differences in the material, construction, dimensions, coating and design are also discussed in this comparison. - Авто та транспорт
To add to the video, the advantages of plastic ball joint bearings are:
- lighter
- less friction
- less noise
- no maintenance required
The advantage to sintered ball joint bearings are:
- durable
- longer lasting when greased
- not affected by contamination as fast as plastic
- porous bearing encases lubricant
All my ball joints have a cracked boot on it but still in tact and no play, can I just replace the boot I saw it on eBay for $9.99 is it better to just replace the whole control arm with ball joint in it, But I am trying to avoid alignment.
Your the best
@@efrensaclolo7021 I would fill crack with some type of silcone filler and in future protect the rubber boot with silicone gel.Saving you to buy a quite expensive. Rubber cover
They last forever too in cars. I never heard Toyota ball joints failed without accidents. Only in trucks they wear out
I disagree with you this time. Original Toyota with nylon base ball joint last much much longer than aftermarket, especially with metal-base. The friction on the nylon socket is much less and 99.99999999% Toyota cars (Not Truck/SUV) never need a ball joint replacement. EVen if they are not as stiff as new but they have no play/clunk unlike most aftermarket after only few thousands miles. But with double wishbonds suspension in that GS Lexus, yes they go bad. YOu can see how good the quality of the balljoint ball on the original ball joint. Very high quality heat tempered metal, very shiny and smooth, not painted (hiding how bad the metalurgy )
Fantastic. Zero wasted time, straight to the meat, great editing and scripting. Excellent work!
Short and to the point is the best way to explain. Your feedback is always welcome! Thanks
@@speedkar99 But you are wrong this time. Toyota balljoint lasts way much longer than any aftermarket, at least 10x longer.
Until now, I had a hard time visualizing the inner working of a ball joint. Thanks for this awesome and informative video!
That's what I'm talkin' about...great insight on what the heck a part actually consists of & how it thoroughly operates.
+Atonement 2018-2028 thanks, check out my other videos for more like this style
Great video and nice comparison between OE and aftermarket. Straight to the point. Subscribed.
Welcome
Awesome video! You just earned a new subscriber. Straight to the point with accurate and unbiased info.
👍🏼👌🏼🙏
Would have thought the OEM would have been better but thanks to you now I know better.Speedkar said plastic cups don't last as long👊from England🇬🇧
And while your enjoying your new grinder, I'm really enjoying your videos! So I'll stay tuned.
+charls seal thanks
I have a feeling my next video may involve cutting something open....I need to get a new blade first haha
Great video. As many have said, straight to the point, awesome editing and very informative. Thank you!
Very good informative video, clear and to the point. Excellent, two thumbs up...
That is my style thanks
Great video. In my experience the aftermarket dust boots don't last as long as OEM. This is significant to the longevity of the ball joint. I have also found that non serviceable ball joints may still need additional grease which I add through a needle attachment for my grease gun and insert it through the gap between the boot and ball joint stud.
Usually by the time a oem one wears out, the car doesn't have much life left in it.
I torn one Ball Joint Boot on the Lower Control Arm, which was installed like 1 year ago, removed the boot, cleaned (90% alcohol at the end) and glued it w/Super glue + salt (a bit). Then I covered the boot with 90 min Permatex gasket maker. It came pretty good: thick and seemingly durable boot. But at the same time I was able to find just new boots for that car (fortunately they started to make them in China), so I decided to go w/new boot. Since it was made from rather thin rubber (same as that torn one), I also covered it w/same gasket maker (after installation). I've seen film when people covered the boots (even w/small hole) w/stretch tape, like 2 layers, so it glues to itself, since that tape doesn't glues to the rubber. I don't know yet how that modified boot will be, but the gasket maker makes it thicker for sure.
Another very informative video. Thanks!
another solid video, keep up the great work man! looking forward to the steering rack vid.
+_dh _ Thank you, I'm looking forward to that project too, I have no idea what to expect.
_dh2sdosospd _
Great explanation and demonstration. Great info! Thank you.
Great content. Very unique. Keep it up!
Thank you :)
Very unique, you man earned my very deep respect!
+RuinMan thanks glad you enjoyed it
Great video very informative
Quick and informative ! Thank u
You are welcome
Excellent video
Thanks
thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks!
In the snow too. Props to you my guy
Thanks. I'm working in the snow right now
Excellent information
Great video. its alway good to know this thingd.
Im glad you learned something, thanks!
Great vid bro !
Thanks bro
speedkar99 - it's a straight up no bs no filler, just the meat and potatoes. it leaves out the useless info and covers ALL the real info.
really good job
great video!
Thanks
I love your hobo gloves. They are AWESOME!
I've since upgraded
Congrats on the new grinder
Heh that grinder has been through alot
Stress concentration on sharp edges..Hmm. You are great..!
Simple stress analysis...
Good jobs and thank you
I literally had one from an eBay set pop out in my Miata. Made in China. Good thing it didn't happen on the freeway. I thought I was doing good in replacing my old ones just because they had torn boots. Big mistake. Got some Moog from rock auto. The box says made in Japan, but the sealed bag says made in Korea. I don't know what to believe anymore. The Moog also doesn't use a castle nut, instead it's a pressure type of nut. Which also needs a larger socket. I think it was a 7/8. The one with some plastic in It. I need the car so I'm in the process of installing them. At least the first one fit better than the Chinese version. I did have to thread the bolt through though. It wasn't going in all the way. Maybe it was just dirty. I put some w40 and it went through fine. By the way thanks for this video. Good info. I was wondering how in the hell mine came undone. I do feel much better now that I know they're pressed from the bottom. So it should never pop out even if it's old.
perfectente e aplicado! saludos des chihuahua
+hu m gracis
So now I know. Enjoyed this very much. UK
You are welcome
Very clear and informative presentation. I thought I understood how ball joints worked, but I had no idea how complex, yet simple they are. I have a few questions regarding the major design differences.
1. Do OEMs favor plastic bearings for longevity/low maintenance? I know this may sound counterintuitive, but if I understood you correctly, plastic bearings last longer with zero maintenance. If the grease dries out, the plastic provides a cushion of protection for a certain amount of time. I imagine it will be more predictable when it starts to fail as the worn out bushing will develop free play.
2. What type of grease works best in this application for ball joints with serviceable fittings? I have sway bar links that keep failing due to moisture/corrosion, and I wonder if my choice of grease has something to do with it. I also don't know how much grease I need to add and how often to repack the joints. Any suggestions?
Thanks, I'm glad you learned something.
OEM's use plastic bearings because they're cheaper, lighter (for CAFE), don't require maintenance, transmit less NVH, and have a reasonable lifetime that will most likely outlast the warranty (design intent).
Plastic bearings will only last "longer" than sintered bearings if the sintered bearing is allowed to dry out. If its well lubricated, then the metal on metal design will last longer.
The plastic is flexible, while the sintered design has a spring washer to accommodate some wear, as well as provide a resistive torque on the ball joint (pretension).
One downside of plastic bearings is they are temperature sensitive - too cold and they could become brittle, or more commonly, on combination with an aluminum steering knuckle and/or control arm, the heat from the brakes could cause it to melt and warp.
For the sintered design, almost any type of lubrication grease can be used. However, if you tried injecting the wrong kind of grease into a plastic ball joint (or added zerk fittings to an OEM ball joint as some have), the grease could eat out the plastic bearing.
I'd must say you BOTH are very knowledgeable and precised thinking / thoughts on the design / aspect of the Ball Joints... People can learn a lot from this thread... PLEASE PIN THIS !!!
@@JodBronsonDo you drive a lot of miles for your job and how often do you grease the ball joints? You should grease ball joints atleast once a month, that will definitely make a quality pair of ball joints last longer.
Wherever possible I only install sealed units. OEM's should last 100kmi easy under normal conditions. If it's greaseable it needs to be done so religiously and IMO are only applicable to the rock crawler enthusiasts. With aftermarket so many are made in the same plant by whoever is the lowest bidder at the time so you never know what you're gonna get regardless of the brand on the box.
... 150k on a near 30 yr old GM with still 1st joints/bearings with grease fittings 😀
hi today i took my car to the mechanic to check the ball join then he mistakenly broke the plastic piece with small spring which prevents the grease inside the ball joint from coming out.
know do i need to replace my ball joint since he broke the thing or it's fine?
thank you
I'm not sure what part you are referring to, but if it's the grease fitting then it would have to be tapped out of the threads. If it's the boot then you should replace the boot, as long as the ball joint doesn't get contaminated.
that car you showed in the background, what year and make is it?.. it almost looked like my 2003 ford focus ztw... :) GREAT VIDEO!! thank you!! You did a great job at showing the complete Ball Joint.. :)
Hey man. Awesome video btw. I have a Scion xB 2009. Do you recommend oem or aftermarket? I don’t think those are greaseable right
Usually OEM is too expensive to put into an 11 year old car...look for aftermarket with a lifetime warranty from a reputable retailer.
Informative.👍
One important thing to note is the potential hard steering effort with cheaper aftermarket balljoints. I've had this exact issue no matter how much grease I pump in the things and actually have to replace them again with better quality softer units as it's already killed my steering box seal and power steering pump from all the hard steering effort. No two ball joint brands are remotely the same from my experience.
Good point, especially on solid axle vehicles, memory steer can be a big issue.
Exactly what I am searching for. Thank you for the great video! A small question: are "sealed" (non-greasable) ball joints completely sealed, or still have a free-floating rubber boot? After separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle, I found a little grease coming out from where the top rubber cover touches the metal stud, though the rubber cover is still mostly intact. So I wonder if I had damaged the ball point. Thank you!
If there's alot of grease and damage to the boot, replace it
@@speedkar99 Thank you very much!
Seems like that lamination step of manufacture must be VERY important, it is carrying all the weight if I have this right?
Love the video. Had idea how ball joints worked but much Betsy seeing how they actually work.
Do you have a general idea of who makes the best aftermarket ball joints? Moog used to be real good but have heard they are going down hill Havnt used any of the products In awhile so can't say for myself. Also heard raybestos pro grade were decent. I'm doing my upper control arms on my 2011 crown vic and thinking I might have to go another route then the motorcraft due to finances. I'm stuck not really knowing which would be the best for the money after oem on the control arms either. Ac Delco makes them for my car too Errr. Just don't know
+Mr. HighBall yes I heard Moog is hit or miss. Mevotech is alright too, you might want to check them out. Ac delco is a reseller, their products come from everywhere and are reboxed. You might wanna check crown Vic forums (or shops that service cop cars) for suggestions on the best pieces for your car.
speedkar99 ..
Thank you Sir.
I just replaced my highlander w Moog problem solvers. They no longer have grease zerks, now come as sealed units.
According to the website photo, it seems like Moog is sourcing those ball joints instead of developing their own Problem Solver design, hence no grease fitting. It probably follows the OEM plastic design internally. I see Mevotech lists a greasable ball joint for the Gen 2 Highlander.
Yeah I figured....I installed the moogs... I imagine it will last quite a while and I probably would always forget to grease them anyway. I'd be shocked if i have the car in five years and I imagine it'll last that long....next I have to do control arms... Looks painful on a highlander.
+Brian Chrisman It probably is, you might have to remove the engine mounts and support the engine to get to the bolts for that control arm.
Yeah it's brutal.... But it's not completely toast yet, so I'm gonna wait lol
super nice thanks!
Hello I would like to know can you remove the ball joint from an inner tie rod??? I have a car that you can not buy inner tie rods . They will only sell you the rack . So was wondering if I could replace the ball joint on my inner tie rod ....?????
Unfortunately you can't just replace that ball stud, have you tried aftermarket inner tie rods?
excited for steering rack
I'm excited too, I have no idea what to expect. Hopefully the weather gets warmer this week and I can start taking it apart.
I used to work in a place that heat-treated the ballstuds for the new ball joints. Ford, peugeot, volvo, bmw, jaguar, land rover ones. Fords had only basic heat treatment done. The rest had balls machine polished and they were then sealed in oil. I liked polishing them to the standard where I could see my reflection on the surface. I wonder if it made any difference for the driver afterwards.
The OEM part you looking at has the hardened coating completely worn away and bare metal is showing.
Thank you for the informative film. I didn't know that the Ball Joint can have some plastic inside. So if the OEM Ball Joint itself is not worn and just have a torn boot, you can just replace the Boot for a new one, and no need to add grease?
Just move the stud, if it's moving around quite easily that means your inner ball joint is worn out you have to replace it, if it needs some force to move it around that's an indicator of a good ball joint
I love your vedios brother, you are such a good teacher, I have problem with my Toyota Etios steering as it's become hard, The Toyota company said that there is no problem in the power set up, it's only the rain water that has gone through the boot and the plastic bushing gap and has leashed the greasing and they recommended complete lubrication of the assembly but I had a question if they could drill two holes one on each side and give grease nipples, they said it's a very good idea but they dont do it at Toyota, they asked me if I wanted it I can get it done at any private mechanic shed. What is your suggestion, Iam finding it hard as Iam 50 diabetic and have muscle weakness due to which Iam driving my maruti ignis most of the time. Can you advise.
Yes you can try adding grease. It'll be temporary until it leaks out again
Nice, thanks
Is it worth it to get un-sealed ball joints that u can put grease in or just buy really tanky ball joints that you have to replace every 200k or so? I'd assume if you maintain the boots they its just more efficient to change the BJ every 200k.
The greaseable ball joints should last longer than the OE if maintained (and manufactered) properly
Please what name brand the best made ball joints
Wow dude in the last 2 videos you have shown 2 of the cars i own (lexus and Infiniti)
You have a GS and G35?
@@speedkar99 i do. I have a 06 gs300 and a 04 g35.
Hi dear Can ball joints be replaced?
Right Lexus LS460
Where can I find her ball joints?
thanks for info
Welcome
video starts at 3:45 🤘 thanks mang
What brand is the aftermarket lower ball joint?
+Kay Saephan some aftermarket brand...
thank you!
Which brand of aftermarket ball joint would you recommend? After I replaced my ~15 year old OEM's at ~275,000, I seem to be just going down the list and wearing out each (supposedly) quality ball joint every couple years. My last set barely even lasted 1 year, which is totally unacceptable IMO.
+Kcducttaper1 If your wearing them down that quickly you should look at replacing other worn parts in the suspension that can be causing that.
I like Mevotech parts, in general they have decent build for the price compared to Moog. If not then look for other reputable companies (like 555 or TRW who are OEM suppliers)
I just finished replacing all of my suspension rubber and ball joints except for my macpherson strut, which is relatively new. I've got Moog PS everything except my sway bar links are Mevotech. I went under there with my grease gun and greased everything up good and promptly blew grease out of a cut in my brand-new Mevotech links.
+Kcducttaper1 I think the mevotech links have a little hole in the boot to relieve the grease, so the boot itself doesn't burst. Unless it came with a tear in the boot?
It definitely looks like a little bitty tear to me. That and the other side didn't have a matching hold lead me to believe it's not a design 'feature'.
Moog is just junk now... 2 of my Moog PS tie rod ends had movement from the box and I almost returned them but so easy to replace I kept the junk. Lesson learned here, but also' I have read several posts on failed Moog suspension parts in the last couple yrs idk whats happened? They were indeed good in the day.
My OEM ball joints are finally getting movement (340k mi) and I have a set of Beck/Arnley 555 Japan made ones here ready to go from RockAuto. Raybestos is 555 Japan rebranded Seiki too on Tundras btw.
And ya' the plastic is inside all sealed bearings/joints.
Where did you get the new ball jo in ts?
Rockauto
Or a local parts supplier
Really cool! What happened to the Mevotech one you replaced? Did the replacement fail already or was that a different one you opened?
Thanks! I put Mevotech ball joints on my Honda, and they held up fine until I sold the car:
ua-cam.com/video/88r0YZWyUho/v-deo.html
The OEM ball joint in this video is the one off my Toyota, which I replaced with a Moog 2 years ago:
ua-cam.com/video/JqME3gI_hp8/v-deo.html
oh ok, cool. I saw the Toyota video and thought this was the one you put in there. I have a feeling ball joints are in my near future, so the videos are much appreciated!
Mevotech on my Honda busted at 4000 km!
How much time it's take to cut ball joint housing...
Yeah that was a pain!
gracias
Can you explain in somewhat detail what you mean by lamination? I can’t imagine anything that would seal the metal casing be called lamination.
Folding the metal around the end of the ball joint at the back plate.
It's the final manufacturing process in closing the ball joint after installing all components inside the housing.
Gotcha. Thanks!
@@speedkar99 it is called "forming".
@@waynes.2983 Yes lamination has more to do with layers
It's kinda snowing while you're working outside and I don't even dare work on my car as soon as it gets 50° here lol
Blah this is nothing ...I live in Canada ....I've got other videos where it snowed harder
my car misfires on low idle what can that be?
+suraj budhram Idle air control, mass airflow sensor, ignition coils, etc.
20 dec 2019 7:28 pm est:thanks
Somehow I ended up here looking at ball joints & I have no idea why.
Something else off my "I wonder what's inside" list. Thanks. You're really going to open a steering rack?
Yes, I want to open a steering rack. I have no idea what to expect, so this should be fun...
I suspect you already have a pretty good idea of what's inside. Wish my car's PS system were electric. Maybe next time, if my car ever wears out before I do.
+wholeNwon Not really, looking at that rack I had in the video, the steering shaft leads to a rack and pinion on the drivers side, but the electric motor uses a recirculating ball spiral on the rack for the passenger side. The motor is separate from the steering shaft and drives the rack directly.
You never opened up a steering rack? It's really not complicated.
Can u plz make a video on, symptoms of ball jpin, unversal jpint,sway bar, bushings joint, wheel bearing similar components related to axle and suspension.
How can we know, we should replace perticular parts if any symptoms occur,
Kindly mention,
symptoms : solution
List
Thanks for the idea
@@speedkar99 i will be very thanks full to u, if u make a complete video on
#sensor vs symptoms vs solution
Thanks u😀
Can any one tell me what is the female ball joint? Used as tie rod ball joint
Like on a Lexus GS350?
hey bro I have a 2001 is300 and the scanner gave me a code p0300 but I have new plugs and wires and the car is giving a random misfire .what can it be?
+suraj budhram Coil packs
Ok thanx but the car only misfires when it's idling
+suraj budhram Seems like a common issue with the IS, check the forums. Some say the injectors are faulty.
Oh ok thank you
hahaahah the metal saw is awesome thanks brother
Please make a video on stub axles
Good tip thanks
Who are some reputable aftermarket Equipment Manufacturer you would recommend?
They are hit and miss. Find something with reasonable reviews and a good return and warranty policy.
Stick with OEM. We're talking about a CRITICAL component, don't go aftermarket. They all seem to suck these days.
I guess it is a mevotech supreme ball joint, from the blue color of the boot
+Zixiao Zhao It could be...or some knockoff with a blue boot :)
YES KNOCK OFF...
Great
Como se llama ese plástico blanco y cuanto cuesta
Toyota OEM uses plastic bearing?
aww, ur sicky... why are you outside then?!
could hear it in your voice. lol get well
Wow, thanks, I'm surprised you could tell I'm sick...
Yeah my mom told me the same thing too, I should stay inside, but there's just soo much to do with this new grinder and resting in bed is boring...
I think the metal stud on metal bearing will wear out faster than the plastic bearing
You have to keep it greased
The workmanship of OE stud looks far superior to the aftermarket. Basically if you keep the boots of OE ball joint intact, the ball joint can last time of the car, because it's sealed, which means contaminants cannot get into the grease either. Greaseable ball joint is so last century, because it's not sealed, thus requires constant grease renewal.
That's one way to think about it. However it depends highly on who the OE is and what vehicle it is. Some OEs don't last long at all!
@@speedkar99 OE has the huge advantage of technical design/requirements and factory quality control. Aftermarket is just trying to make a few bucks with low cost, they make something and people buying them due to cost (and cost only), nobody can set a quality requirement for them. Thanks to your video, I can see the big quality difference between an OE and aftermarket. To me, any ball joint with a greaseable zerk is garbage, made from old tech with poor tolerances. No OE are made with greaseable fittings anymore.
The OEM ball joint that is pictured here has a required warranty life of 150k miles per the manufacturer (Toyota/Lexus). It is manufactured right here in the US by a company that has ties to Japan. Superior handling, feel, and durability with the OEM here. Don't buy that aftermarket garbage. I think he got his money's worth out of it for a 90s to early 2000s Camry/Avalon/ES300 lower ball joint. It's so old, it's plated in hexavalient chromium.
That ball joint is only $60 from a Lexus dealer near me. I just don't trust aftermarket parts with such a vital part of my car.
That's not bad. The price gap is huge here in Canada
@@speedkar99 some of the US dealerships have eBay accounts. They might ship to canada, with similar prices?
I prefer the one with grease fitting as greasing is easy to do.
Most people don't want to deal with greasing chassis components lol
R C OEM unit comes pre greased out of the factory and it will outlast the aftermarket part
No lower bearing ring?
I guess not
Thx
Just buy the oem stuff (moog, etc) i tried some aftermarket GES balljoints on my 85 dodge w150, had to press them all out again and put moogs in because they dropped the steering knuckle a whole 1/4" and the axle shafts wouldn't line up with the spindles anymore
+Dustin Soyring that works too!
Are they plastic or are they Teflon?
+Jared c POM
Interesting hearing that moog isn't that great. I put upper and lower ball joints on my 08 wrangler JKUR and within 20k miles they're finnished.
+Flag Ov Hate is your truck modded?
speedkar99 well its a lifted jeep with 35" tires, the stock ball joint is pretty small to handle the abuse of wheeling offroad with a tire that size so I suspect that is why they failed so early.
I wonder if the bearing is made of nylon or something else. If so its probably better then metal cause its self lubricating. Though I wish new cars still came with those grease fittings...
You could make your own with a drill and tap set.
True, much older vehicles came with greasable units. However, society has shifted toward a more disposable, less labor/maintenance perspective because labor costs are high, and turn over is quick.
Plastic bearings have their own issues; they're more temperature sensitive than metal, hence in the extreme cold they can become brittle, and in the extreme heat (if they're situated near a hot brake component) they can melt.
True, I've seen this done, however you've got to make sure you don't introduce any metal shavings in the ball joint when drilling, and make sure you use a grease that's safe for plastic. Some grease will react with the plastic bearing.
You're like the Canadian ChrisFix
+MoutainMan3000 haha why do people keep comparing me to him? I think I'm very different
@@speedkar99 They think that because he also uses hands infront of the camera style, that it is the same...
I like the supposed positive of "no maintainence required" for plastic parts, like "lifetime transmission fluid" where the lifespan of the part is so low it doesn't approach its first maintenance interval 😛
FORD---engineered to fail shortly after warranty and engineered to cost 10x to fix ie $650 to change 8 spark plugs on 5.4L v8
I heard Moog uses plastic bearing now.
On some older Toyota LBJ's that are not fail safe design, you always want to use OEM Toyota parts. On newer Toyotas, sure, because the part probably isn't made in Japan anyways.
Which aftermarket ball joint can do 250,000 miles like Toyota's without grease?
Not many.
Supposedly the Senkei 555 brand made in Japan, but the UA-camr Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics said his 555 failed after a few thousand miles.
👍👍👍
I wouldn't call that plastic flimsy. Heavy duty brake systems (most of them now) use plastic bushings for the S-cams. 99 percent of the time the bushings are unscathed and the steel cams themselves are worn out. There are some really really tough grades of plastic out there these days.
Good call. After a while plastic will still deform and get squished
the steel is worn out because the plastic is abrasive
What sucks is some aftermarket balljoints for some vehicles don't offer greasable parts. I cannot get lower balljoints for my car that has a grease fitting. So I'm left with which one do I buy? Some say go OEM, some not. I wonder if OEM is even the same as orginals were? Seems they all make junk???
Some OEMs are junk. Surprised you dont get greaseable parts...what car you have?
If your OEMs lasted a long time then might as well go for the same.
@@speedkar99 02 Honda accord, no one offers lower greasable balljoints for it... they don't make em. OEMs aren't greasable, nor do they have snap rings. Only aftermarket lower balljoints have snap rings. I don't feel comfortable without snap rings after replacing the balljoints once already with aftermarket parts. I've been told they don't seat tight enough in the steering knuckles once they've been replaced. For safety and reliability, use balljoints with snap rings. I don't know if it's fact but that's what I've read online. Might be true, the holes in the knuckles wear out with rust and oversize.
After hearing of many aftermarket failures on tundra ball joints I’m going with the safer route OEM. One thing you don’t know and didn’t test is metal hardness.
Good point. I think that was a weak spot on Toyota trucks
Almost nobody maintains and greases the ball joints timely and then they are disappointed that it didn't last as long as the oem.
Very true
Looks like a mevotech brand ball joint
It is