I have some restraints that cause me to have to walk 16ft between area i sand and area I can spray but I started using the 1 piece flow and I saw improvements right away. Still have a ways to go but these ideas work! Thank you Louis.
Awesome to hear! I am offering a free one hour consultation if you would like to discuss your process in greater detail. Visit our website and search phone consultation www.finefinishsupply.com
For anyone doing this for the first time when you remove the door from the hinge you want to label the door where the hinge was mounted and also label the hinges so when you go to reinstall the doors you can put the exact hinge back on to avoid having to adjust the hinges and to avoid any confusion as to what door goes where. Some are obvious but some will be confusing. Make sure you tape over the area in the hinge pocket where you wrote so you can avoid spraying over it. I put the top hinge on the highest shelf and the other on the lowest in the cab where the door goes. Then mask off. Sometimes there will be kitchen cabs, bathroom cabs, linen closet cabs other hallway cabs, wall unit cabs and without being able to identify clearly which goes where can turn into a time consuming issue and some hinges will be different. Plus you want to avoid handling the doors more than you have to.
Firstly, Thanks again for the video. I had a couple of questions about the drying time of the Renner 1245. The cabinets were painted on both sides in just over 30 minutes. On the data sheet for the Renner 1245 it says the drying time is 45 minutes to dust free and handling in 2 hours. I would appreciate if you could let me know how you were able to get it to dry that quick. Appreciate you taking the time to put up these informational videos and responding.
Booth time is quicker to the touch, but you bring an important question with that. I can just hear a rep saying not enough dry time between coats if there is a failure with adhesion issues on the materials part, they do happen...
It probably had to do with 2 things. I think he is in Texas and dry heat. Also, placing his doors on the rack where he did there is a constant airflow across those doors.
LOVE this video and I love your continuous improvement thought process. It's what I am constantly doing in my business. I am just getting into kitchen spraying and I was taught once you have completed the back side with its final top coat, mask this then do the front face! Do you feel this is needed?? If I did the back first then sprayed the front face without masking would the back side not feel and look completely smooth? Thank you in advance if you can answer this or even do a video on it! Keep up the amazing work and thanks for passing on your knowledge ❤
Nice I use 9.5 fine finish with gemini coatings. Can do a full kitchen this way about 45 doors in 26 hrs or so consistently for the past 3 years , easy money guys
Amazing advice at the end about spraying being the smallest amount of time and not to over invest in new equipment. We've been using the 643 for a while. Whats the main difference between that and the 1245?
It’s interesting you speak of contamination waiting until the next day to spray yet you are essentially sanding in your spray booth. Do you not have problems with sanding dust settling on your freshly painted doors?
Hey brother! PLEASE HELP ME WITH YOUR PROFESSIONAL ADVICE 🙏. I have the same gun running through a 5 stage fuji mini mite turbine. I use 1.5 needle and nozzle but not getting a smooth finish (orange peel or like sand paper feel or tiny little bubbles in the finish. Do I need to close down more the air on the gun? Do you keep your air knob on the gun half open or wide open? PLEASE HELP ME. I WILL APPRECIATE VERY MUCH!
Hey brother! PLEASE HELP! I have the same gun but I'm having a hard time spraying latex paints..not getting a smooth finish. I use 1.5 needle and nozzle but getting a "sandpaper finish or orange peel" Do you keep the air knob on the gun half open or all the way open? Do u need less air and more material?
After cleaning w/tsp, rinse, dry(very important the 6% to 12% moisture and is not said), uniformly wiped down w/mek(eliminating any possibilities of contamination), removal, mark w/alphanumeric codes, sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, prep check with anything that gets patched, caulked, prime, sand, clean, finish. Next... lol
Yes I’m right with you. Much, much more to refinishing oak cabs. And of course spraying is when you’re making $$, but there are a couple steps ahead and along the way.
Dude I love that you’ve integrated lean into your processes. That awesome man!
Eye opening. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the videos!
It would be interesting to see how you set up for onsite spraying, especially ventilation.
Nice job! Great information
Thanks for watching!
Super pro!!! 💯👍
Wish you guys were in Pennsylvania. Love the content and would love to try Renner
This makes so much sense. Thanks.
Great work louie 👍
Thank you!
I have some restraints that cause me to have to walk 16ft between area i sand and area I can spray but I started using the 1 piece flow and I saw improvements right away. Still have a ways to go but these ideas work! Thank you Louis.
Awesome to hear! I am offering a free one hour consultation if you would like to discuss your process in greater detail. Visit our website and search phone consultation www.finefinishsupply.com
Seeing is believing. Thank you so much Louis. 😁
Absolutely! Thanks for watching!!
Thanks for the great videos. What type of turn table are you using.
Awesome job, what did you use as a primer?
Thank you for the great advice,
Did you need to reduce the paint to be able to shoot thru the Apollo spray system? And if so by how much?
It's a good idea.. would have liked to see what you used for primer. We use alot of bin but would love to find something else.
Thank you .. great video ❤️
Thanks for watching!
Hey, Where can i get the Renner products in California?
Did u sand back to bare wood or just scuff for the undercoat to get a grip.
The milesi mdf water borne primer has really shined for me With refinishing too 👊🏿👍🏿
Awesome!
For anyone doing this for the first time when you remove the door from the hinge you want to label the door where the hinge was mounted and also label the hinges so when you go to reinstall the doors you can put the exact hinge back on to avoid having to adjust the hinges and to avoid any confusion as to what door goes where. Some are obvious but some will be confusing. Make sure you tape over the area in the hinge pocket where you wrote so you can avoid spraying over it. I put the top hinge on the highest shelf and the other on the lowest in the cab where the door goes. Then mask off. Sometimes there will be kitchen cabs, bathroom cabs, linen closet cabs other hallway cabs, wall unit cabs and without being able to identify clearly which goes where can turn into a time consuming issue and some hinges will be different. Plus you want to avoid handling the doors more than you have to.
I always use alphanumeric coding, no confusion...
@@michaelfederoff3417 lmao
Firstly, Thanks again for the video. I had a couple of questions about the drying time of the Renner 1245. The cabinets were painted on both sides in just over 30 minutes. On the data sheet for the Renner 1245 it says the drying time is 45 minutes to dust free and handling in 2 hours. I would appreciate if you could let me know how you were able to get it to dry that quick. Appreciate you taking the time to put up these informational videos and responding.
Booth time is quicker to the touch, but you bring an important question with that. I can just hear a rep saying not enough dry time between coats if there is a failure with adhesion issues on the materials part, they do happen...
It probably had to do with 2 things. I think he is in Texas and dry heat. Also, placing his doors on the rack where he did there is a constant airflow across those doors.
How are you sanding next to the rack?
Great! Question... after you sand you bring right into spray booth.. don't you wipe off the dust?
Yes, wipe and blow off with the spray gun quickly before I spray it.
LOVE this video and I love your continuous improvement thought process. It's what I am constantly doing in my business. I am just getting into kitchen spraying and I was taught once you have completed the back side with its final top coat, mask this then do the front face! Do you feel this is needed?? If I did the back first then sprayed the front face without masking would the back side not feel and look completely smooth? Thank you in advance if you can answer this or even do a video on it! Keep up the amazing work and thanks for passing on your knowledge ❤
Do you get rid of the grain and what’s your process?
Nice I use 9.5 fine finish with gemini coatings.
Can do a full kitchen this way about 45 doors in 26 hrs or so consistently for the past 3 years , easy money guys
Gemini precat
Amazing advice at the end about spraying being the smallest amount of time and not to over invest in new equipment. We've been using the 643 for a while. Whats the main difference between that and the 1245?
No problem with the sand in the air or laying out in the just paint cabinet ???
It’s interesting you speak of contamination waiting until the next day to spray yet you are essentially sanding in your spray booth. Do you not have problems with sanding dust settling on your freshly painted doors?
I wouldn’t think so Not with surf prep or Festool especially being a few feet from the exhaust
What is that stand you are using to paint the doors?
How can I get that product?
You can buy from us. We are a fill service wood costing supply store ans ship nationwide. Www.rennerproducts.com
Hey brother! PLEASE HELP ME WITH YOUR PROFESSIONAL ADVICE 🙏. I have the same gun running through a 5 stage fuji mini mite turbine. I use 1.5 needle and nozzle but not getting a smooth finish (orange peel or like sand paper feel or tiny little bubbles in the finish. Do I need to close down more the air on the gun? Do you keep your air knob on the gun half open or wide open? PLEASE HELP ME. I WILL APPRECIATE VERY MUCH!
i dont get it is there another way to do this?
Hey brother! PLEASE HELP! I have the same gun but I'm having a hard time spraying latex paints..not getting a smooth finish. I use 1.5 needle and nozzle but getting a "sandpaper finish or orange peel" Do you keep the air knob on the gun half open or all the way open? Do u need less air and more material?
You need a 1.8 needle in there.
After cleaning w/tsp, rinse, dry(very important the 6% to 12% moisture and is not said), uniformly wiped down w/mek(eliminating any possibilities of contamination), removal, mark w/alphanumeric codes, sand, clean, prime, sand, clean, prep check with anything that gets patched, caulked, prime, sand, clean, finish. Next... lol
Yes I’m right with you. Much, much more to refinishing oak cabs. And of course spraying is when you’re making $$, but there are a couple steps ahead and along the way.
That’s right…Fine Finish is an art….
Yes sir!
What stool is that
And you did correct degreasing, nor sanded was correctly, better change profession
Are you using a 3000$ hvlp sprayer? Not useful for the every day worker….