Your video inspired me to risk buying used binoculars like yours. My skymaster was terribly misaligned. I took it apart like in your video. Everything worked out. There are clarifications. To align it: 1. the screws that hold the optical unit must be loosened; 2. Adjust with adjusting screws 3. Tighten the retaining screws. 4. Check the alignment. Thank you for the video.
@ccarlley Did not understand yet. Because it hasn't solved the dispersion problem yet. When I look through binoculars - there is dispersion. When the wife looks - there is no dispersion but there is no coaxiality.
@Olek: I'm certainly no optics pro. My bins have a bit of dispersion on the edges but I ignore it (maybe I shouldn't!). I'm calling unwanted coloring 'dispersion'. Are you saying that the term 'co-axial' means double image?
Can it fix chomatic abberation with collimation ? Thanks for this video ! I always want to know how this collimation screws works, and now its obvious.
BTW, what kinda tripod/head do you use for this beast?? I just bought an awesome old Bogen 3040 (Manfrotto 3046 tripod / 3047 head) off Cloudy Nights. Love the tripod, but the heads definitely not kosher for astronomy binos.
I'm not sure about yours, but in my Celestron Skymaster 25X100, not only the eyepieces but the objective lenses can also be adjusted independently. There are cases encapsulating each of the objective lenses and you can rotate to open them. I believe you can use that fact to collimate the binocs without the need to open the binocs and mess with the screws. Do a look up in UA-cam for a video titled Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment. This seems to be on the 25x100 though. I also have a pair of Celestron 15x70 and the objective lenses can't be adjusted by rotating.
Hello good video, I have a question, is it necessary to collimate each binocular? Because I don't know how to recognize that I have bad collimation. I have 20x80 and I'm a beginner so I don't want to mess with it too much if you understand me :D So I'm mainly interested in how a normal beginner astro observer finds out that something is wrong, thank you for the answer :)
Great question. Being a beginner myself, I would only collimate one side to the other. I think a pro optics repair shop would ensure that one side was perfectly centered and then collimate the other side to the centered one. I got extremely lucky collimating these bins. The adjustment is impossible to make while looking through these due to the location of the screws. If you have adjusting screws on the side of your bins, pat yourself on the back for choosing that configuration.
And sorry, I didn't really answer your question. You'll know your bins need collimating if you see a double image when looking through them. When they're only slightly out of adjustment, your brain will compensate and make it look like a single image. However, you will experience viewer fatigue much faster and you'll probably "feel" they're out of adjustment.
Wow. Musta taken a good lick. Well, if your eyepiece doesn't just screw on like mine, that's uncharted territory for me. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with.
Hey buddy, how the collimation go?? I'm currently using the standard SkyMaster 15×70s and they have to be collimated (conditionally aligned) quite frequently, although in their defense I'm fairly rough on 'em. They use alot smaller prisms, so collimation can be done by two external screws under the rubber of the bino's main body. The thought hadn't even crossed my mind that the 25×100s would have to use a completely different design since they're so damn big. I'd planned on replacing the standard 15×70 SkyMasters I've got now with the 15×70 Pro model, but recently I've been contemplating moving up to the 20×80 Pros, and now the more I think about it I wonder why not just go ahead and get the big ass 25×100s??... damn aperture fever strikes again!!
Astro Ape . . . "aperture fever". LOL! Thanks for asking about the collimation. SOMEHOW they lined up perfectly on the first attempt and, to me, that was like winning the Powerball. I would not have had the patience for back and forth adjustment/checking. Either they're now perfectly collimated or my brain is compensating at a world-class level. As far as the mount, hands down the best way to go is the Orion Monster Parallelogram. I didn't want to spend that much but I bit the bullet and so happy I did. Now, I only use my 10" dob for investigating cool stuff I see with my Skymasters!
I just ordered these. As expensive as they are, if there’s a hint of any problem, they’re going back. I’m not going through this nonsense. I’d probably make things worse.
I just ordered 25x100 binoculars but Orion not Celestron! Anybody knows if the Celestron are better or they are the same! Price wise they are pretty much the same.
Your video inspired me to risk buying used binoculars like yours. My skymaster was terribly misaligned. I took it apart like in your video. Everything worked out. There are clarifications.
To align it:
1. the screws that hold the optical unit must be loosened;
2. Adjust with adjusting screws
3. Tighten the retaining screws.
4. Check the alignment.
Thank you for the video.
Thank you for letting me know! Happy with your purchase?
@ccarlley Did not understand yet. Because it hasn't solved the dispersion problem yet. When I look through binoculars - there is dispersion. When the wife looks - there is no dispersion but there is no coaxiality.
@Olek: I'm certainly no optics pro. My bins have a bit of dispersion on the edges but I ignore it (maybe I shouldn't!). I'm calling unwanted coloring 'dispersion'. Are you saying that the term 'co-axial' means double image?
@ccarlley yes, by co-exial imean double image
Doesn't it have zoom? I just need to be moving the eyepieces?
No zoom on these. Only individual diopter adjustments
Can it fix chomatic abberation with collimation ? Thanks for this video ! I always want to know how this collimation screws works, and now its obvious.
I'm going to say no. I believe collimation only affects alignment. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I think chromatic aberations have to do with the lens material itself and the different wavelengths of different colours.
Please tell me this binocular’s view range is 1500 yards or more than this
BTW, what kinda tripod/head do you use for this beast??
I just bought an awesome old Bogen 3040 (Manfrotto 3046 tripod / 3047 head) off Cloudy Nights. Love the tripod, but the heads definitely not kosher for astronomy binos.
I'm not sure about yours, but in my Celestron Skymaster 25X100, not only the eyepieces but the objective lenses can also be adjusted independently. There are cases encapsulating each of the objective lenses and you can rotate to open them. I believe you can use that fact to collimate the binocs without the need to open the binocs and mess with the screws. Do a look up in UA-cam for a video titled Binocular Collimation Quick and Easy Method without Prism Adjustment.
This seems to be on the 25x100 though. I also have a pair of Celestron 15x70 and the objective lenses can't be adjusted by rotating.
What!!? I will certainly check it out! Thanks for the tip 👍🏼
ua-cam.com/channels/rKJ5aVast8tXtS-qRGL51w.html
binoculars service
Hello good video, I have a question, is it necessary to collimate each binocular? Because I don't know how to recognize that I have bad collimation. I have 20x80 and I'm a beginner so I don't want to mess with it too much if you understand me :D
So I'm mainly interested in how a normal beginner astro observer finds out that something is wrong, thank you for the answer :)
Great question. Being a beginner myself, I would only collimate one side to the other. I think a pro optics repair shop would ensure that one side was perfectly centered and then collimate the other side to the centered one. I got extremely lucky collimating these bins. The adjustment is impossible to make while looking through these due to the location of the screws. If you have adjusting screws on the side of your bins, pat yourself on the back for choosing that configuration.
And sorry, I didn't really answer your question. You'll know your bins need collimating if you see a double image when looking through them. When they're only slightly out of adjustment, your brain will compensate and make it look like a single image. However, you will experience viewer fatigue much faster and you'll probably "feel" they're out of adjustment.
@@ccarlleyThank you for help :) I hope my binoculars don't need collimation, otherwise I would know as you write. thanks
ua-cam.com/channels/rKJ5aVast8tXtS-qRGL51w.html
binoculars service
The eyepiece came off of my Skymaster 25x100. So I would love to see your video of how to remove and install the eyepieces!!!!
Wow. Musta taken a good lick. Well, if your eyepiece doesn't just screw on like mine, that's uncharted territory for me. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with.
@@ccarlley
@@ccarlley I'd like to send you a pic of what it looks like.
@@dyt108 Sure. Send it to ccarlley@comcast.net
I’m still trying to understand, what is collimation?
Spear, in binoculars it's where you see double. In telescopes it's where a round object (planet) appears oblong.
Hey buddy, how the collimation go??
I'm currently using the standard SkyMaster 15×70s and they have to be collimated (conditionally aligned) quite frequently, although in their defense I'm fairly rough on 'em. They use alot smaller prisms, so collimation can be done by two external screws under the rubber of the bino's main body. The thought hadn't even crossed my mind that the 25×100s would have to use a completely different design since they're so damn big.
I'd planned on replacing the standard 15×70 SkyMasters I've got now with the 15×70 Pro model, but recently I've been contemplating moving up to the 20×80 Pros, and now the more I think about it I wonder why not just go ahead and get the big ass 25×100s??... damn aperture fever strikes again!!
Astro Ape . . . "aperture fever". LOL! Thanks for asking about the collimation. SOMEHOW they lined up perfectly on the first attempt and, to me, that was like winning the Powerball. I would not have had the patience for back and forth adjustment/checking. Either they're now perfectly collimated or my brain is compensating at a world-class level.
As far as the mount, hands down the best way to go is the Orion Monster Parallelogram. I didn't want to spend that much but I bit the bullet and so happy I did. Now, I only use my 10" dob for investigating cool stuff I see with my Skymasters!
they shouldn't be out.. they should be spot on when you first buy them.. shouldn't they?
Yes they should! However, I've had them for years and I don't know if they got outta whack over time or if a slight bump knocked them out.
I just ordered these. As expensive as they are, if there’s a hint of any problem, they’re going back. I’m not going through this nonsense. I’d probably make things worse.
Hopefully they're fine. They sure give a great view when they're right.
I just ordered 25x100 binoculars but Orion not Celestron! Anybody knows if the Celestron are better or they are the same! Price wise they are pretty much the same.
My dad always looks at the sky i just got the base skymaster 15 x 70 to see if he likes it before..i go and get fancy.
Lol. I just did!
Well, don't do it again.