Great video!! Thanks for sharing. Where did you put the new 2nd battery, and what are specs on that new battery. Do you have a trickle charger hooked up? Keep up the great work!!
Great Awesome Videos - thanks for all the insight, I have done pretty much the same stuff (dual battery, dual charger, battery switch) , only I did not buy any of the parts from Sea-Doo, the battery case, cables, etc. all off of amazon, What also I found is I am able to place a Group 31 Dual purpose MAGM in the Group 27 box. I was considering a ACR as well and possibly provide a separate fuse block for external application (Lights, accent lighting, alternative stereo). BTW: the 18ft does not seem to have quite the amount space to work around aas the 21ft. but still managed. Again thanks for the videos
I used the same parts listed and I'm pretty sure I wired it properly but I couldn't get power from BATT 1, I had to switch to BATT 2 for the boat to work, any idea ?
@@clooch1976 use an volt-ohm meter to make sure you have wired properly. If you connected like I did, then remove the cable to the engine. So now you have only the cables from the batteries to the switch. Use the meter to measure the voltage at the point where the cable to the engine goes (that you disconnected). Switch from battery one to off then to battery two. It sounds like you have wired it wrong.
Hi Frank.. I have a 2024 sea doo switch limited. The boat came with a cut off switch. I purchased the kit to added a second battery. The switch was installed according to your instructions. Now when the audio is on there is a whining noise coming from the speakers. Can you tell me what did I done wrong ? Can anybody give me advice in how to fix the whining noise coming from the speaker. Thanks
@johnmorgan1632 Check my video on installing a dual battery switch. If you tried to connect the high and low capacity batteries in parallel, there's your problem. Only one battery connected at a time. The video on installing a dual battery switch will show this connection.
Frank, thanks I installed a battery switch last year in my 2022 Switch 230hp, worked great. This year my dealer replaced the IBR Module under warranty after it failed to go into reverse with "IBR Module Error". Tech said they've had problems with all 2022 IBRs. But it keeps "locking" and tech says he has to use his laptop with connection in engine compartment to software reset and unlock IBR. Realized that every time I turn battery switch to Off, the IBR ends up "locking". But worked great last year before this IBR replacement. You have any idea why? Is there a way I can access whatever the tech uses to reset/unlock IBR?
Even though you turn off the battery, check the battery voltage. A battery tester might help. (I did a video on a battery tester I evaluated.) I've read that low voltage can cause the IBR error. Also, for me, a low voltage kept my IDF from working. But for the software reset, you'd need to get the software and dongle attachment to get into the ECM. CanDooPro.com has the decoder and software, but I think it's a little expensive at $429. Plus, if you decide to go with that, call them first and make sure you get the right product.
I really don't know. If it can be properly mounted and be secure, probably so. The SeaDoo kit has the right size battery holder, right retaining brackets and screws. Also the correct length of battery cables with attachments for the attachment points on the existing battery holder. You'd need to evaluate how much you'd save in dollars and effort going with something other than the SeaDoo kit.
When adding the second battery, Both are NOT connected in parallel. Only one battery is connected and therefore only the connected battery charges. Which ever battery the switch has selected is the one used for everything, including charging. While the switch itself will allow for either, none or both batteries, batteries of different capacities, like this set-up, should never be connected together (the Both setting). Nothing drastic immediately happens, but the different capacities will tend to bring the high capacity battery down to the lower capacity level. Check other UA-cam videos on this.
Yes. But it would take longer battery cables. You should measure the length and check it against a chart you can find on Google to determine the best gauge wire to use. Running it through the wiring grommet under the captain’s chair might not be possible due to the size. It’s easy to try and find out. Be prepared to drill another hole and get another grommet for the battery cables. I thought about doing that. My conclusion was that it was almost the same effort to remove the front snap panel of the console as the two twist latches to the engine bay. You can also look to mount it outside on the console, just bend the terminals on the cables to come straight out of the back instead of the sides.
Love your videos. I just got my switch and I bought everything you recommended for dual battery with dual switch and the same charger. Do you happen to have a diagram. Would love to make sure I understand all the connections. Thanks again. Subscribe people!
Great videos dude👍 clear explanations 👍
Thanks
Great video!! Thanks for sharing. Where did you put the new 2nd battery, and what are specs on that new battery. Do you have a trickle charger hooked up? Keep up the great work!!
Look for my high capacity video. It will show the location and installation as well as the battery and mount specs.
Great Awesome Videos - thanks for all the insight, I have done pretty much the same stuff (dual battery, dual charger, battery switch) , only I did not buy any of the parts from Sea-Doo, the battery case, cables, etc. all off of amazon, What also I found is I am able to place a Group 31 Dual purpose MAGM in the Group 27 box. I was considering a ACR as well and possibly provide a separate fuse block for external application (Lights, accent lighting, alternative stereo). BTW: the 18ft does not seem to have quite the amount space to work around aas the 21ft. but still managed. Again thanks for the videos
Hey Thanks Frank! Appreciate your videos here. Hope you're liking your switch!
Thanks
Can I get a clarification for the positive and negative wires, did you use 3 positive wires and 1 negative wire along with two bus connectors?
I used the same parts listed and I'm pretty sure I wired it properly but I couldn't get power from BATT 1, I had to switch to BATT 2 for the boat to work, any idea ?
@@clooch1976 use an volt-ohm meter to make sure you have wired properly. If you connected like I did, then remove the cable to the engine. So now you have only the cables from the batteries to the switch. Use the meter to measure the voltage at the point where the cable to the engine goes (that you disconnected). Switch from battery one to off then to battery two. It sounds like you have wired it wrong.
Hi Frank. did u leave the original battery disconnect the way it is. Or removed it ?
@@ozzysautorepair351 check out my video on adding a switch. I kept both batteries, but have them on a switch that I can use either one.
Hi Frank.. I have a 2024 sea doo switch limited. The boat came with a cut off switch. I purchased the kit to added a second battery. The switch was installed according to your instructions. Now when the audio is on there is a whining noise coming from the speakers. Can you tell me what did I done wrong ? Can anybody give me advice in how to fix the whining noise coming from the speaker. Thanks
@@anthonydavis377 check the grounding. These is often a ground loop issue with Sea Doo. Google ground loop seadoo.
Added the high capacity battery but when I try to start it says check key. Put back on original battery it works fine what up with that?
Your high capacity battery may need charging.
Mine does the same thing says check key and a bunch of clicking sounds
@@johnmorgan1632 The battery needs charging. Also check for loose connections.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 how many wires did you have going to the post that you added on the battery box?
@johnmorgan1632 Check my video on installing a dual battery switch. If you tried to connect the high and low capacity batteries in parallel, there's your problem. Only one battery connected at a time. The video on installing a dual battery switch will show this connection.
Frank, thanks I installed a battery switch last year in my 2022 Switch 230hp, worked great. This year my dealer replaced the IBR Module under warranty after it failed to go into reverse with "IBR Module Error". Tech said they've had problems with all 2022 IBRs. But it keeps "locking" and tech says he has to use his laptop with connection in engine compartment to software reset and unlock IBR. Realized that every time I turn battery switch to Off, the IBR ends up "locking". But worked great last year before this IBR replacement. You have any idea why? Is there a way I can access whatever the tech uses to reset/unlock IBR?
Even though you turn off the battery, check the battery voltage. A battery tester might help. (I did a video on a battery tester I evaluated.) I've read that low voltage can cause the IBR error. Also, for me, a low voltage kept my IDF from working. But for the software reset, you'd need to get the software and dongle attachment to get into the ECM. CanDooPro.com has the decoder and software, but I think it's a little expensive at $429. Plus, if you decide to go with that, call them first and make sure you get the right product.
Would the Blue Seas Add A Battery kit work on this pontoon?
I really don't know. If it can be properly mounted and be secure, probably so. The SeaDoo kit has the right size battery holder, right retaining brackets and screws. Also the correct length of battery cables with attachments for the attachment points on the existing battery holder. You'd need to evaluate how much you'd save in dollars and effort going with something other than the SeaDoo kit.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 What's the price of the kit?
@@theoldshooter9011 Check Google for the latest pricing. I've seen it from $165-$200.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 thanks
which battery charges when driving around?
When adding the second battery, Both are NOT connected in parallel. Only one battery is connected and therefore only the connected battery charges. Which ever battery the switch has selected is the one used for everything, including charging. While the switch itself will allow for either, none or both batteries, batteries of different capacities, like this set-up, should never be connected together (the Both setting). Nothing drastic immediately happens, but the different capacities will tend to bring the high capacity battery down to the lower capacity level. Check other UA-cam videos on this.
Frank, can the battery switch be installed in or on the console, so it is a little easier to access?
Yes. But it would take longer battery cables. You should measure the length and check it against a chart you can find on Google to determine the best gauge wire to use. Running it through the wiring grommet under the captain’s chair might not be possible due to the size. It’s easy to try and find out. Be prepared to drill another hole and get another grommet for the battery cables. I thought about doing that. My conclusion was that it was almost the same effort to remove the front snap panel of the console as the two twist latches to the engine bay. You can also look to mount it outside on the console, just bend the terminals on the cables to come straight out of the back instead of the sides.
I have a switch and I made a trolling motor diy making a video soon
Lmk please. I'm considering purchasing a Switch, but I want to be able to mount a trolling motor. Options seem pretty limited. Thx!
Where is video ;-)
You are awesome!!
Thanks. Just trying to help.
Thank you
You're welcome.
Love your videos. I just got my switch and I bought everything you recommended for dual battery with dual switch and the same charger. Do you happen to have a diagram. Would love to make sure I understand all the connections. Thanks again. Subscribe people!
The switch is out of stock :-) might want to add a different one
Thanks