SeaDoo Switch Noco Battery Charger/Tender
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- If you like these videos, please subscribe. This video will give instruction on adding a dual battery charger/tender to a SeaDoo Switch. The Noco Genius GenPro 10x2 is a waterproof dual battery charger/tender. If this has helped, please like and subscribe.
Noco Genius GenPro10x2: amzn.to/3NBL2iC
Noco Genius GenPro10x2 (source #2): West Marine, BassPro, Google search.
Shore power plug: amzn.to/3S34d7Q
Bus Bar: amzn.to/3NAGSGT
14 AWG Wire: amzn.to/3PfYgmA
Terminals: amzn.to/444UIrq
Milwaukee Cordless Soldering Iron: amzn.to/3pfXYRW
Milwaukee Cordless Drill: amzn.to/43OhLHd
Velcro Strips: amzn.to/42Ny2ec
Thank you for all your valuable information
Great video. Very helpful. Only one criticism... I would not put those two terminal posts in the pontoon section as the flush hose sprays water everywhere.
They could easily be put inside the engine compartment. But they are stainless automotive terminals and a car's engine compartment does get wet in the rain. The pontoon flush is also with fresh water and very infrequent. I haven't had any issues or evidence of corrosion.
I really love your videos, keep them coming!
Thanks
You are awesome Frank!! Thank you so much!
You're welcome.
Can you also trickle charge with a small solar panel with this setup?
Excellent video, thank you! I'm new to all this and appreciate the guidance.
One question, I have seen folks install the 10X2 and others the 5X2 Noco, to my knowledge the only difference would be the charging time. If that is true were you able to gauge what the chare time was for the 10?
It indeed just the charging time. The times depend upon the level of charge the battery has to start with as well as the amp-hour of the battery. The high capacity battery will take longer than the low capacity battery. A 5 amp would probably be sufficient to keep it topped off. I can say the 10-amp definitely does. Likely you'll have it charging overnight so either way it should be fine.
Can you clarify the size terminal and lugs you used. The links bring up 1/4” on one and 5/16 on the other.
I would love to see an float switch for the bilge pump
Where did you place the bus connections and do I need two of them?
at 15:41 isnt that a hose that sprays mist into the pontoons? if it is, is that where you would mount those busser bars or would you want to take them "inside the gromet" to the other side of the compartment under the seat? or i guess a better question would be "have you had any issues with them being in that compartment?"
It has not been an issue. I also use a paint on waterproof insulation on the bus bars.
Did you use the same sized ring connector at both the battery and the terminal board?
Yes
Really appreciate your Switch videos. Just purchased mine. Wondering if you've considered installing a float switch for the bilge pump? Should be an easy job, but not much room down there to put it. I'd love to get your thoughts please.
Thanks.
Bill
I am not currently considering adding a float switch. It does appear to be an easy task, but I have so far found no need. Most of the boat is self bailing. Only the engine compartment. I don't leave my boat in the water but rather on a floating dock. I typically don't find water in the engine compartment to be a problem for me. I have no problems manually turning on the bilge pump when I go out, just to make sure. But adding a float switch seems like another point of failure where the float switch could get stuck open and drain the battery. If you decide to add one, it might be easier to place it in the rear engine compartment. Also, when you wire it, you might want to wire the float and manual switch in parallel so that both could operate independently.
@@letsrolldiyauto1532 thanks for the reply. Good point on the opportunity for the switch to fail and drain the battery. I was also concerned there might be a lot of switch bounce at higher speeds. I was definitely thinking it should be in parallel with the manual switch. My boat is stored out of the water, so I may be just paranoid. Just haven't had a boat that didn't have an auto bilge pump. Keep up the great videos. They are very helpful and inspiring.
@@billowens6109 Thanks
Do you have a video of how you put the switch and dual battery in?
Yes. If you subscribe to the channel and look for videos there, you'll find these videos as well as other Switch videos.
Hi Frank, can you reference the shore power plug you have installed? The video did not reference the exact shore power plug you installed in the parts list you provided. Please advise!
I have added it . amzn.to/3S34d7Q
Thank You so much Frank! @@letsrolldiyauto1532
😁@@servicemaster2014
I'm getting ready to do the same thing.
Is the noco gen2 5 good enough or do I need the 10?
5 would be fine. The 10 will give you quicker charging.
Question, how can you install a solar battery to run the radio all by itself when the engine is off?
Good question. The radio will run with the engine off and the key in place and ignition on (red button pressed). It will stay on until the battery voltage drops. So if the solar was connected to the battery to charge, it should work as long as the solar charger is sufficient to keep up with the audio drain.
Did you install an ACR by any chance?
I have each battery isolated and controlled by a switch. I keep both batteries OFF when I charge so that each battery is connected to its separate charging port on the Noco and is not connected to the boat. The voltage is controlled and regulated by the Noco. It charges until full charge and then automatically changes to a maintenance mode. Since each battery is completely separate and not in parallel, a separate ACR is not needed. All that is controlled by the Noco unit.