Very, very interesting. It's good to know that there are different options that can be taken when it comes to guitars action. That was eye opening. Thanks.
Great video Neil, thank you. Would love to see some behind the scenes videos of vintage classical guitars which you receive, and how you bring them back to optimal condition.
@@NeilTaMusic wonderful, happy new year to you as well. PS watching one of your videos recently, I saw your comment about someone on eBay telling you that the Yamaha G-220A is a laminate-top guitar. That was me! I was basing my information off the Yamaha records which used to be on their website, as well as my own laminate-top Nippon Gakki G-220A, but I have now learned from you that there are many exceptions in such vintage guitar production details. Thanks for your knowledge.
@@bradstock - you are not alone, I bought 17-years-old Yamaha C-70 and I am *absolutely sure* that back of this guitar is single piece whole solid panel, "Meranti" wood, it is not even "book-matching". Although top looks like three-layer sandwich. It looks really beautiful, and sounds very good, not like "laminate". When I talk, having guitar on my lap, it vibrates.
Hi Neil Ta, could you please make some video on how to tune bracing? I have an idea for example, to make holes in bracing (to adjust "tap tuning"). I have Kanile'a ukulele with this kind of bracing, and they went even farther: "triangle"-like bracing; stifness is the same, but vibration improves 10x. I bought cheap Rosen acoustic last week, they have holes in bracing too... Do I need to remove back panel of guitar for example? I have "microscope"-like device which can show guitar inside (it connects to iPhone via WIFI); very cheap; useful. Thank you for great educational videos! P.S. I saw at AliExpress special device to mark bridge location precisely: length from 12th fret to the saddle should be "almost" same as from 12th fret to nut. Only 1-2 mm difference because of fret thickness. I saw such special tool there which means they are doing great job ;)
What a useful video. Thank you. The "part of the history" business is tricky. The fellow doing the repair is, it seems to me, also part of the history. I mean, suppose Strativarious were repairing a mediocre violin. Would that not be more interesting than the performer who (perhaps) abused the instrument?
Hi Neil, very good information on how the bridge is installed. I was wondering if you could help me. I have a couple of 1970 to 1990 Hofner classical guitars. they were left in storage since they were made. I have about 12 of them. but they have no bridge on them. I bought new bridges for them. but the bridge saddle slot was routed out in a slant instead of being straight. so The hi E string is 5mm and the low E string is 4mm from the side. I no before glueing the bridge on it needs to be measured. I believe from the nut up to the 12 fret needs to be 325mm and from the 12 fret to the bridge 325 to 326mm. because the saddle is not straight. I'm wondering if I'm supposed to measure 325 or 326 up to where the hi E string or the low E string is. do you know how I sud measured up to a slanted saddle? or up to where the E A D G B or E string is? or does anybody know?
Each guitar is different so you can’t use the same measurement for all guitars. Measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, that will give you the correct distance from the 12th fret to the bridge.
Hi Neil, thanks for getting back to me, I know each guitar is different and has different measurements. all of my Hofner Guitar has 325mm from the nut to the 12th fret. I'm just not sure what it is from the 12th fret to the bridge with a straight or slanted bridge saddle. or probably on any Guitar. they say when you pluck any string or the E string and then press the string on the 12th fret it shud sound the same pitch. and not have a sound of E flat or E sharp. It shud have the same pitch or sound as E on the tuner. I end up buying bridged with slanted saddles and not straight won. so I'm just not sure which side of the saddle I shud measured from. what are the slanted saddles for, or what is the differences between a slanted saddle and a straight saddle? or shud I measured 325 on the low E string or 326 on the hi E string
Hi Neil, very informative to know how the bridge was installed. I have a couple of 1960/70 Japanese vintage classical guitars which show strip-shape dents on the surface near the bridge string binding side. Apparently those dents were caused by suddenly released strings, like whips, strike the guitar surface like . Some dents are deep and after years they change to dark color. Although the wood is not broken and they seem not degrade the sound quality, I wonder what if the wood is unfortunately broken? Will the sound corrupt? Regards, Felix Chen
Hi Felix, Thanks for sharing the info. If there was a hole through the wood definitely it would affect the sound, Although it depends on how big the hole is and its location. The top is important but more so are the braces. I will do a video on the topic. Is there anything else you'd like me to cover in the next video?
Hi Neil, please see the scars near bridge in the linked photo. You might need to zoom in. drive.google.com/file/d/1DzbbU_uUIsoqM9Wzg4lI3zTJWyOZgtDp/view?usp=drivesdk A new and very deep scar occurred when a local guitar shop staff uncarefully changed Savarez string for this rare Shinano GS-400 two weeks ago. I am very upset still now. By the way, Savarez strings make very bright tone. Would you talk about strings in your channel? Regards, Felix Chen
@@felixchen8295 oh no, I’m so sorry to see the photos. Poor guitar. Lots of people don’t get to work on classical guitars so they don’t know how to tight strings. Omg. I can’t believe the photo. I may have to show people how to tight the strings properly. Thanks for the suggestion
@@NeilTaMusic Hi Neil, I always wonder the thickness of the top wood. How deep the scar can go down without defecting the Sound quality? In case there is a small hole, what can be done to repair? Regards, Felix Chen
Admira guitars are pretty good. I buy them for my students. So far so good. Most of them seem to be made well. If you even have this issue, just contact me, I'll make a video on how best to fix your guitar.
@@NeilTaMusic Hi Neil, I have an old brazilian guitar with laminated top which I like and want to keep playing, but it is very weakly braced by design. There are 7 very slim braces from the soundhole to just before the bridge and nothing behind the bridge. So ofcourse it has developed a bulge behind the bridge and a dip before it. The action was impossibly high, and the saddle was already as low as it could go. So i shaved 2mm off the saddle-part of the bridge, and made a new bone saddle. I also deepened the gully where the strings come out to go over the saddle, plugged the holes and made new ones that came out a little lower - in order to have some break angle which was near 0 towards the high-e string. It played well enough after that, but then after a few weeks the action started creeping up again. So now I'm looking for ways to counteract the bulge without changing the character of the guitar (soundwise). So I don't want to add braces behind the bridge, although I'm considering putting one on either side of the soundhole, because there is als nothing between the 2 transverse braces. In other words, the guitar is folding up and there is nothing in the design to stop it. Bridge doctors are used -as far as i can tell- in steel string guitars, so I'm looking for someone who has tried it on a nylon string guitar to find out of that would work (possibly a lightweight version). Any (other) suggesyions for me? All help is appreciated, thx in advance.
@@jackbombeeck4958 Hi jack, thanks for reaching out. First of all the bridge doctor is no good for the classical guitar as it will deaden the top and kill any resonance. Normally this happens because the top it too old and has lost its strength and elasticity. I would only attempt to repair guitars in this condition only for sentimental values. Any other types of repair will just be for cosmetic reasons, the guitar won’t ever sound like when it’s it’s former glory. The best solution is to replace the top altogether, but is it worth it? I have about 20 guitars in the same condition as yours, and I ask myself the same question: is it worth the time and effort? If yes then humidify the top to straighten it, then install new bracing all the way past the bridge. Keep it mind the top dead so it will not give you all the overtones of a top in good condition. I hope this helps. Please consider subscribing to my channel and help this tiny community grow. Thanks.
Opinions online are either strongly in favor (equal or even better sound, but better structural integrity) or strongly against (deadened top). I did find a few before+after youtube videos including sound, and they were surprisingly good. All of them were on steel string guitars. That's why I'm looking for real life examples of use on a nylon string guitar, preferably with a sound recording of the difference. So did you -or someone you know- actually try it?
@@jackbombeeck4958 I can tell you with certainty that the bridge doctor won’t sound good on a classical guitar because the top it much more delicate and need to vibrate freely. To get an idea of how it sounds like with a bridge doctor just place the palm of you hand on the bulge and play the guitar.
Very, very interesting. It's good to know that there are different options that can be taken when it comes to guitars action. That was
eye opening. Thanks.
Great video Neil, thank you. Would love to see some behind the scenes videos of vintage classical guitars which you receive, and how you bring them back to optimal condition.
Thanks Brad. That will eventually happen. One day soon.
Best wishes for the new year.
@@NeilTaMusic wonderful, happy new year to you as well.
PS watching one of your videos recently, I saw your comment about someone on eBay telling you that the Yamaha G-220A is a laminate-top guitar. That was me! I was basing my information off the Yamaha records which used to be on their website, as well as my own laminate-top Nippon Gakki G-220A, but I have now learned from you that there are many exceptions in such vintage guitar production details. Thanks for your knowledge.
@@bradstock - you are not alone, I bought 17-years-old Yamaha C-70 and I am *absolutely sure* that back of this guitar is single piece whole solid panel, "Meranti" wood, it is not even "book-matching". Although top looks like three-layer sandwich. It looks really beautiful, and sounds very good, not like "laminate". When I talk, having guitar on my lap, it vibrates.
Hi Neil Ta, could you please make some video on how to tune bracing? I have an idea for example, to make holes in bracing (to adjust "tap tuning"). I have Kanile'a ukulele with this kind of bracing, and they went even farther: "triangle"-like bracing; stifness is the same, but vibration improves 10x. I bought cheap Rosen acoustic last week, they have holes in bracing too...
Do I need to remove back panel of guitar for example? I have "microscope"-like device which can show guitar inside (it connects to iPhone via WIFI); very cheap; useful.
Thank you for great educational videos!
P.S. I saw at AliExpress special device to mark bridge location precisely: length from 12th fret to the saddle should be "almost" same as from 12th fret to nut. Only 1-2 mm difference because of fret thickness. I saw such special tool there which means they are doing great job ;)
What a useful video. Thank you. The "part of the history" business is tricky. The fellow doing the repair is, it seems to me, also part of the history. I mean, suppose Strativarious were repairing a mediocre violin. Would that not be more interesting than the performer who (perhaps) abused the instrument?
My bridge is still intact but it is chipped where 6, 5 and 4 strings are inserted into the holes……
Hi Neil, very good information on how the bridge is installed. I was wondering if you could help me. I have a couple of 1970 to 1990 Hofner classical guitars. they were left in storage since they were made. I have about 12 of them. but they have no bridge on them. I bought new bridges for them. but the bridge saddle slot was routed out in a slant instead of being straight. so The hi E string is 5mm and the low E string is 4mm from the side. I no before glueing the bridge on it needs to be measured. I believe from the nut up to the 12 fret needs to be 325mm and from the 12 fret to the bridge 325 to 326mm. because the saddle is not straight. I'm wondering if I'm supposed to measure 325 or 326 up to where the hi E string or the low E string is. do you know how I sud measured up to a slanted saddle? or up to where the E A D G B or E string is? or does anybody know?
Each guitar is different so you can’t use the same measurement for all guitars.
Measure the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, that will give you the correct distance from the 12th fret to the bridge.
Hi Neil, thanks for getting back to me, I know each guitar is different and has different measurements. all of my Hofner Guitar has 325mm from the nut to the 12th fret. I'm just not sure what it is from the 12th fret to the bridge with a straight or slanted bridge saddle. or probably on any Guitar. they say when you pluck any string or the E string and then press the string on the 12th fret it shud sound the same pitch. and not have a sound of E flat or E sharp. It shud have the same pitch or sound as E on the tuner. I end up buying bridged with slanted saddles and not straight won. so I'm just not sure which side of the saddle I shud measured from. what are the slanted saddles for, or what is the differences between a slanted saddle and a straight saddle? or shud I measured 325 on the low E string or 326 on the hi E string
Hi Neil, very informative to know how the bridge was installed. I have a couple of 1960/70 Japanese vintage classical guitars which show strip-shape dents on the surface near the bridge string binding side. Apparently those dents were caused by suddenly released strings, like whips, strike the guitar surface like . Some dents are deep and after years they change to dark color. Although the wood is not broken and they seem not degrade the sound quality, I wonder what if the wood is unfortunately broken? Will the sound corrupt? Regards, Felix Chen
Hi Felix, Thanks for sharing the info. If there was a hole through the wood definitely it would affect the sound, Although it depends on how big the hole is and its location. The top is important but more so are the braces. I will do a video on the topic. Is there anything else you'd like me to cover in the next video?
Hi Neil,
please see the scars near bridge in the linked photo. You might need to zoom in.
drive.google.com/file/d/1DzbbU_uUIsoqM9Wzg4lI3zTJWyOZgtDp/view?usp=drivesdk
A new and very deep scar occurred when a local guitar shop staff uncarefully changed Savarez string for this rare Shinano GS-400 two weeks ago. I am very upset still now.
By the way, Savarez strings make very bright tone. Would you talk about strings in your channel?
Regards, Felix Chen
@@felixchen8295 oh no, I’m so sorry to see the photos. Poor guitar. Lots of people don’t get to work on classical guitars so they don’t know how to tight strings. Omg. I can’t believe the photo. I may have to show people how to tight the strings properly.
Thanks for the suggestion
@@NeilTaMusic Hi Neil, I always wonder the thickness of the top wood. How deep the scar can go down without defecting the Sound quality? In case there is a small hole, what can be done to repair? Regards, Felix Chen
@@felixchen8295 the thickness vary depending on the maker. I had a good look at your photo. I think your guitar should be alright.
Do you know if admira guitars, particularly a4 model, suffer from this unfortunate flaw ? Produced in 2018 ?
Admira guitars are pretty good. I buy them for my students. So far so good. Most of them seem to be made well. If you even have this issue, just contact me, I'll make a video on how best to fix your guitar.
@@NeilTaMusic hey mr i have an Admira poloma guitar and i think there an issue in my guitar how can i contact u
Sir neil is it ok on the bridge of my guitar if lower the saddle part on my 1st string. The size of it is only 1/16 inches.
You have to measure the distance from the fret to the string at the 12th fret. It should be 3.0mm
@@NeilTaMusicthank you sir where can i send you some pictures?
Have you ever installed a bridge doctor?
Hi Jack, not yet. The bridge doctor is a wonder invention. Why do you ask?
@@NeilTaMusic Hi Neil,
I have an old brazilian guitar with laminated top which I like and want to keep playing, but it is very weakly braced by design. There are 7 very slim braces from the soundhole to just before the bridge and nothing behind the bridge. So ofcourse it has developed a bulge behind the bridge and a dip before it. The action was impossibly high, and the saddle was already as low as it could go. So i shaved 2mm off the saddle-part of the bridge, and made a new bone saddle. I also deepened the gully where the strings come out to go over the saddle, plugged the holes and made new ones that came out a little lower - in order to have some break angle which was near 0 towards the high-e string. It played well enough after that, but then after a few weeks the action started creeping up again. So now I'm looking for ways to counteract the bulge without changing the character of the guitar (soundwise). So I don't want to add braces behind the bridge, although I'm considering putting one on either side of the soundhole, because there is als nothing between the 2 transverse braces. In other words, the guitar is folding up and there is nothing in the design to stop it. Bridge doctors are used -as far as i can tell- in steel string guitars, so I'm looking for someone who has tried it on a nylon string guitar to find out of that would work (possibly a lightweight version). Any (other) suggesyions for me? All help is appreciated, thx in advance.
@@jackbombeeck4958 Hi jack, thanks for reaching out. First of all the bridge doctor is no good for the classical guitar as it will deaden the top and kill any resonance. Normally this happens because the top it too old and has lost its strength and elasticity. I would only attempt to repair guitars in this condition only for sentimental values. Any other types of repair will just be for cosmetic reasons, the guitar won’t ever sound like when it’s it’s former glory. The best solution is to replace the top altogether, but is it worth it? I have about 20 guitars in the same condition as yours, and I ask myself the same question: is it worth the time and effort? If yes then humidify the top to straighten it, then install new bracing all the way past the bridge. Keep it mind the top dead so it will not give you all the overtones of a top in good condition.
I hope this helps.
Please consider subscribing to my channel and help this tiny community grow.
Thanks.
Opinions online are either strongly in favor (equal or even better sound, but better structural integrity) or strongly against (deadened top). I did find a few before+after youtube videos including sound, and they were surprisingly good. All of them were on steel string guitars. That's why I'm looking for real life examples of use on a nylon string guitar, preferably with a sound recording of the difference. So did you -or someone you know- actually try it?
@@jackbombeeck4958 I can tell you with certainty that the bridge doctor won’t sound good on a classical guitar because the top it much more delicate and need to vibrate freely. To get an idea of how it sounds like with a bridge doctor just place the palm of you hand on the bulge and play the guitar.