yeah so get on your Motorized bikes again. The last one with all the kitchen bits was great! Now do one with a 2 stroke 196cc gokart engine, and make it a Cafe Racer style! Look up Harley Davidson's 1919 Flexi Racer and the Flesher flyer on wheels through time here on youtube, and if you combine the sidecar actuation from the harley with the aesthetics of the Flyer, you'll have made my dream bike.
To my knowledge on the reversing of the engine...I do remember much older motors like Briggs flatheads suffering the same problems, because of the crank & cam design (firing phases), can legit run backwards when the cylinder has some left-over fuel. They fixed that in the newer ones (like the 1980's maybe) with slightly redesigned magnetos (I think it was advancing the timing?), losing the points (which meant low and slow pulls could no longer start the motors at 300-500rpm, since the new ignition coils needed higher and harder RPMS to start...like 600-700 I think), and adding an afterfire solenoid on the carb (so it would eliminate backfires on shutdown which in older motors, run it backwards). I flat don't remember if that engine of yours has points or not, or I would be blaming those as being slightly out. One other way they used to patch-fix these engines, was to make off-set flywheel keys, which manually advances or retards the timing, to help stop backfiring (more time to purge the cylinder). I know in 2-strokes, to stop a lot of problems they use scavenging with tail pipe/muffler design that builds backpressure to help purge...but I don't remember if any of that applies to those older, slower RPM 4 strokes as far as purging the cylinder, Oliver. At that point, it only leaves carb & intake pipe design. I think the old updrafts were fine, just harder to start, but the downdraft carbs would sometimes overload and backfire and the bigger flatheads. Someone will make me look like a goober and tell you- "Well what I always do is just lean the carb out."...and yeah...that will work too! Keep at it, OllieMotors.
And yes, Ollie...if you can determine that motor design is notorious for reverse running (there were some super old Briggs 28 Series that did it), your idea of an overrun clutch/bearing would work just fine too. I caught that at the end there.
great, thanks for the information. This engine does have points & condenser. I think designing the kick start mechanism itself seems like an easier path for me since i'm not as confident with mickey mousing around with the engine.
@@TheCaptainSlappy I had many over the years he can try opening the points gap more or adjust the coil bracket behind the flywheel and move it a little to the right. It should be alright after that
@ I scratched my noodle and blamed the points anyway...but to be fair to Ollie...those are under the flywheel and a pain to get to. Basically, I will get a chuckle if he builds an overrun clutch for it, since that is exactly how the old non-live PTO's work for the 1950's and under Ford tractors...you have to add an overrun clutch to be able to use a brush hog, since they were never designed to run them. If you don't use them, when you stop the tractor by clutch, then brake, the weight of the brush hog blades will just keep pushing the tractor via the gearbox and you will go into a roadway or a fence. Uhhh...not saying I ever done that, but I did get close a couple times until I was taught "The Magic of One-Way Clutch Pawls & Dogs". Also don't forget to tell Ollie that points are part of the reason older motors hate starting. If they ain't gapped right, the motor will drive you crazy.
Great work & experimentation Oliver! Future problen to solve: Add a lot more air holes to the circular adapter plate! Not likely a cold weather problem, but come warm weather, the engine will overheat! Give it all the air she needs, she's air-cooled after all. Fuel upgrade: 3 part formula, #1)NON-Ethanol fuel from a seperate gas pump hose for All small engines, #2) Add Stay-Bil fuel Stabilizer & Marvel(ous) Mystery oile (2oz. of each) to your 5 gallon fuel jug Before you fill the jug. The fuel will stay fresh for many months in your sealed jug! #3)Drain all your old gas out first from all your machines fuel tanks B4 fillup! The stabilizer stops fuel & water from quickly degrading & the oil keeps gaskets & seals supple, cleans & stops corrosion in the carb. Dad discovered this in the late 70's on the farm & I've faithfully followed this ever since & engines run for 10 yrs or more & start quick & run great with no carb repairs! Congrats on all your new equipment (lathe, torch, 3D printer) (darn that cheap 🤬! Lathe gear& 👍repair). Thanks for the channel & thanks for serving in the US military, Blessings! Paul
This was a random recommendation on my feed, I made sure to check out the first part before this one. I know it’s a bit of a cliche to say but in it’s present state, with the contrasting materials it’s got a steam punk vibe. I’m intrigued to see where this goes, so of course I’ve subscribed.
You might check to see if the woodruff key on the flywheel is partially sheared. I have a push mower now that I need to check, not for the same problem but each are timing related. The woodruff key is designed to shear, so you don't twist the crankshaft with a sudden stop, like a mower hitting a solid rock. PS , I used to have around 30 motorcycles behind my fence , some running, others parts bikes,...I got rid of everything, all parts handle bars etc,...one of the only things that I have left are two kick starter springs,...beefy,...oh well. Love the machine,...just remembered a copper fuel tank that a kid made out of a big copper pipe, really clean job,...made it to fit on a bicycle, wish I could send a picture. So that motor is about 10lbs per horse power,...? I gave away a Cushman about that size that had a kick starter on it,...wish that I kept it , oh well. Take care,...
I must be going stir-crazy with the time of year and all...just dropped what little I was doing to give it my full attention when this popped up on my feed. Lol...sigh.
maybe you should have used the old starter generator set up and then you could have put lights on it too. and a battery and so on and so on. then it would weigh a million pounds. its fine either way. you sure are getting smarter and smarter. you just made your kid very happy.
I believe the traditional solution to the kick start coming back when the engine stalls is to only have the teeth on the gear (or sprocket in this case I guess) cover a portion of the circumference. The goal is to have about one tooth of rotation before the first tooth engages, hence when 'up' the kick start can't be back driven. You might need to include some guides slightly wider than the chain on the part of the sprocket without teeth in this case, and maybe a stop at the top of the kick's travel to keep friction from back driving it anyway. It would take almost all of the force out of the kick coming back regardless though.
As a 30+ year mechanic I love the kickstarter idea although if something ever goes wrong with the mechanism you made and that thing does just one rotation backwards the lever WILL brake your leg in half
Great video project. 60 years ago I made one with a 2 1/2 hp horizontal shaft engine above the real wheel and a jack shaft under the seat at 10 y/o. I added a hand clutch and a 3 speed rear wheel. Wish I had your wheels and that 11 hp! My sister had a Yamaha RD350 with a kit shift self destruction mode. When the lever flipped back after a kick it didn't fully disengage. as such, it pressed hard against the back of your calf. The previous owner let the pivot out top of the lever that goes under your foot wear so badly his foot slipped off at the bottom. That let the lever spring back up and hit the stop really hard. Under proper use it went up to the stop block and then was disengaged and parked. Because his foot flew off it would hit the stop really hard and broke it. That made the gear stop too late and began to engage causing it to push your leg as you rode it. I drilled a hole in the bottom trans case and with a ball end allen wrench I got the part to fall off into the transmission which had a 4 bolt inspection cover on top. I opened the cover, hooked a taillight bulb to the battery and dropped it into the transmission to light it up like mom's kitchen. I used grabbers and magnet sticks to grab the broken pieces. I got a new wedge piece from a motorcycle junkyard that had a similar bike. I JB welded a coat hanger to the wedge piece and lowered it down from the top inspection hole right into position and clamped it. I used chewing gum to hold the allen bolt on the ball end allen driver. I had to work it in from a side angle so the ball of gum made a nice ball joint. I screwed it in, removed the allen wrench, and snapped off the coat hanger JB weld to remove it, and then glued the lower transmission case with JB Welt. It almost looked so good nobody could tell there was a nickel or quarter size hole.Kick start was all fixed. I added weld to the fold out upper kick start lever the foot touches to make sure it was a bit less than 90 degrees so the foot would not slip off at the bottom. You'll have to add a similar device like Yamaha 350 had in 1967 I think it was to the 11 horse engine. I can try to find the diagram of it if I have it here still. jtwent@msn. You need to separate the kick gear from the flywheel gear on a spline perhaps to get full disengagement when the lever is in it's resting spot. Your bike is much fancier than mine but you have nice machine toolsI just had hand tool and a wimpy cheap drill. We had to pay a drunk farmer to do welding for us . He was drunk by 10 am on Saturday--and his wife too. He would be chewing on a cigar when he asked what us boys wanted again. Well lets see if she'll start he'd say. 1/2 the time it didn't and we'd have to come back Saturday night or Sunday or wait till the next weekend. You have it easy with that shop! He had his work truck in the driveway all the time but would weld for us on Saturdays. The battery was always dead and his fat wife was always in a see through lace lingerie.short robe. It was rough until I got my own stick welder.
Upgrade the chuck on that lathe and you will find it to be a lot better. Great build and channel. I remember when you first started making content. You've come a long way.
Coil gap being set to wide makes an engine kick back. I’ve had generators absolutely pull the starter rope right through my fingers when starting and will kick the engine back when cutting off.
That engine seems like it has some good compression. To me it looks like after the engine shuts down, its the piston bouncing off the compression stroke. There isn't enough momentum in the flywheel to pull it through another compression stroke and it causes the engine to spin backwards for half a turn or so which causes that starter clutch to lock up and slam into itself.
Your options are to physically disconnect the kick start when not in use - like modern kick and pull starts - or else you could possibly use a second one-way clutch/bearing tethered to something stationary so that it simply can't turn backwards.
Nice work! Great to see @mustie1 commenting also. One question for you though. Are you at all worried that you blocked the cooling fins off with the kick start assembly? Seems like that might cause the engine to overheat since there is no airflow being pulled in and pushed across the cooling fins. Keep up the great work!
The kick start is pretty cool, try to adjust the timing,or add “a decompressor shutoff” like an old rotax single cylinder snowmobile engine,so that way it won’t kick back , it should fix that problem 100%, or go back like someone suggested and put a generator/starter on it
Yes, you could machine/grind a couple fins to make a spot to drill/tap/thread in a spot for a decompressor , it should be fairly easy, it would also make it a lot easier to start , and could be used as a killswitch
I think your letting the ignition come back on before it's done spinning and that's causing a tiny backfire in the reverse direction. Keep it ground till it completely stops spinning
On the kickstarter issue at the end, is it possible to have a quarter turn feature that disengages the kickstart lever when not in use - i.e. when the kickstart lever is turned out for a kickstart, it engages the spin shaft to enable the lever action - then when running, is flipped back out of the way which would also disengage the kickstart lever from the spin shaft and therefore any action from any kickback, etc.?
The kickback is normal because it’s a magneto engine unless you’re using a Killswitch then it might just have a hotspot on the piston and it’s running lean
probably can get it to stop backfiring by getting it running good and having the drive belt on. take the plug wire off and it shouldn't be able to fire, need ignition cutoff
My buddy cut up a 250 Elsinore and put in a 6hp brigs. Had a jack shaft and it actually got around in fields ok. Problem was bracing. The frame started flexing and thay pulled the mounting tab on the gas tank. So it cracked a little and leaked on the Briggs head. I look over and see 6 inches of flames coming from his crotch. He discounted like an Olympic gymnast. The bike was on fire and he was just standing there in shock. I honestly crashed my xr250 trying to turn around. I was laughing so hard I couldn't get up let alone help. He was pissed for about 10 minutes. Then he saw the humor of the flaming crotch.. Damn I'm still laughing 35 years later...
Great job on kick start well to be honest please consider electric starter 1 less parts 2 the starter will be hidden 3 when bending pipe with torch pack pipe with sand cap off then heat and bend
Honestly, after seeing the results of the kick starter, and how complicated it makes everything. I am considering just doing an electric start haha. Thanks for the advice, the metal I was bending was actually solid rod!
You should totally copy a push mower pull cord design and put it sideways and add a kick it uses chucks that fly out and grip on the fly wheel then disconnect when done that would be best
On the side of the engine under the carburetor there should be a small cover with 2 skrews take it off and set your points gap to 20 thousandth of an inch should stop that issue.
Change over to electric start or just use starter Bendix and flywheel with starter ring gear. Oh yeah put a muffler on it for neighbors, unless you like police visits.
I miss the days when you were cutting apart cheapo walmart bikes. and hobbling stuff together. I dont have any of these fancy machines :( so it just isnt interesting to me anymore. Good luck.
great inovation,
yeah so get on your Motorized bikes again. The last one with all the kitchen bits was great! Now do one with a 2 stroke 196cc gokart engine, and make it a Cafe Racer style! Look up Harley Davidson's 1919 Flexi Racer and the Flesher flyer on wheels through time here on youtube, and if you combine the sidecar actuation from the harley with the aesthetics of the Flyer, you'll have made my dream bike.
Thank you!
@mustie1 how many rpms does a small engine 4 stroke need to start on choke
THE MAN HIMSELF????
This thing is ridiculous, but I love it. Great job on the kick start. Impressive. I'm ready for the ride video.
Yea me too
To my knowledge on the reversing of the engine...I do remember much older motors like Briggs flatheads suffering the same problems, because of the crank & cam design (firing phases), can legit run backwards when the cylinder has some left-over fuel. They fixed that in the newer ones (like the 1980's maybe) with slightly redesigned magnetos (I think it was advancing the timing?), losing the points (which meant low and slow pulls could no longer start the motors at 300-500rpm, since the new ignition coils needed higher and harder RPMS to start...like 600-700 I think), and adding an afterfire solenoid on the carb (so it would eliminate backfires on shutdown which in older motors, run it backwards).
I flat don't remember if that engine of yours has points or not, or I would be blaming those as being slightly out. One other way they used to patch-fix these engines, was to make off-set flywheel keys, which manually advances or retards the timing, to help stop backfiring (more time to purge the cylinder).
I know in 2-strokes, to stop a lot of problems they use scavenging with tail pipe/muffler design that builds backpressure to help purge...but I don't remember if any of that applies to those older, slower RPM 4 strokes as far as purging the cylinder, Oliver.
At that point, it only leaves carb & intake pipe design. I think the old updrafts were fine, just harder to start, but the downdraft carbs would sometimes overload and backfire and the bigger flatheads.
Someone will make me look like a goober and tell you- "Well what I always do is just lean the carb out."...and yeah...that will work too! Keep at it, OllieMotors.
And yes, Ollie...if you can determine that motor design is notorious for reverse running (there were some super old Briggs 28 Series that did it), your idea of an overrun clutch/bearing would work just fine too. I caught that at the end there.
great, thanks for the information. This engine does have points & condenser. I think designing the kick start mechanism itself seems like an easier path for me since i'm not as confident with mickey mousing around with the engine.
@@TheCaptainSlappy I had many over the years he can try opening the points gap more or adjust the coil bracket behind the flywheel and move it a little to the right. It should be alright after that
@ I scratched my noodle and blamed the points anyway...but to be fair to Ollie...those are under the flywheel and a pain to get to. Basically, I will get a chuckle if he builds an overrun clutch for it, since that is exactly how the old non-live PTO's work for the 1950's and under Ford tractors...you have to add an overrun clutch to be able to use a brush hog, since they were never designed to run them. If you don't use them, when you stop the tractor by clutch, then brake, the weight of the brush hog blades will just keep pushing the tractor via the gearbox and you will go into a roadway or a fence. Uhhh...not saying I ever done that, but I did get close a couple times until I was taught "The Magic of One-Way Clutch Pawls & Dogs".
Also don't forget to tell Ollie that points are part of the reason older motors hate starting. If they ain't gapped right, the motor will drive you crazy.
Great engineering , you have a big brain
His name is Brett
Very creative bike and problem solving 👍
Great work & experimentation Oliver! Future problen to solve: Add a lot more air holes to the circular adapter plate! Not likely a cold weather problem, but come warm weather, the engine will overheat! Give it all the air she needs, she's air-cooled after all. Fuel upgrade: 3 part formula, #1)NON-Ethanol fuel from a seperate gas pump hose for All small engines, #2) Add Stay-Bil fuel Stabilizer & Marvel(ous) Mystery oile (2oz. of each) to your 5 gallon fuel jug Before you fill the jug. The fuel will stay fresh for many months in your sealed jug! #3)Drain all your old gas out first from all your machines fuel tanks B4 fillup! The stabilizer stops fuel & water from quickly degrading & the oil keeps gaskets & seals supple, cleans & stops corrosion in the carb. Dad discovered this in the late 70's on the farm & I've faithfully followed this ever since & engines run for 10 yrs or more & start quick & run great with no carb repairs!
Congrats on all your new equipment (lathe, torch, 3D printer) (darn that cheap 🤬! Lathe gear& 👍repair). Thanks for the channel & thanks for serving in the US military, Blessings! Paul
Great build. Can't wait to see you drive it.
as a person whos only transportation is a motorized bicycle, and currently has a shoulder injury, i really love the kickstart you fabricated. 🍻
This was a random recommendation on my feed, I made sure to check out the first part before this one. I know it’s a bit of a cliche to say but in it’s present state, with the contrasting materials it’s got a steam punk vibe. I’m intrigued to see where this goes, so of course I’ve subscribed.
You might check to see if the woodruff key on the flywheel is partially sheared. I have a push mower now that I need to check, not for the same problem but each are timing related. The woodruff key is designed to shear, so you don't twist the crankshaft with a sudden stop, like a mower hitting a solid rock. PS , I used to have around 30 motorcycles behind my fence , some running, others parts bikes,...I got rid of everything, all parts handle bars etc,...one of the only things that I have left are two kick starter springs,...beefy,...oh well. Love the machine,...just remembered a copper fuel tank that a kid made out of a big copper pipe, really clean job,...made it to fit on a bicycle, wish I could send a picture. So that motor is about 10lbs per horse power,...? I gave away a Cushman about that size that had a kick starter on it,...wish that I kept it , oh well. Take care,...
So very nice to see you make this! Thank you so much for this one Oliver!
Sincerely,
Alicia.
My pleasure!
Remove the kickstart lever every time you get it running! It’ll simplify a lot all you need is something to hold the kicker
it's so simple - that's a great solution. thank you!
I must be going stir-crazy with the time of year and all...just dropped what little I was doing to give it my full attention when this popped up on my feed. Lol...sigh.
Congrats on all the new fancy tooling. I remember when you were basically using nothing but an angle grinder and welder.
maybe you should have used the old starter generator set up and then you could have put lights on it too. and a battery and so on and so on. then it would weigh a million pounds. its fine either way. you sure are getting smarter and smarter. you just made your kid very happy.
I believe the traditional solution to the kick start coming back when the engine stalls is to only have the teeth on the gear (or sprocket in this case I guess) cover a portion of the circumference. The goal is to have about one tooth of rotation before the first tooth engages, hence when 'up' the kick start can't be back driven.
You might need to include some guides slightly wider than the chain on the part of the sprocket without teeth in this case, and maybe a stop at the top of the kick's travel to keep friction from back driving it anyway. It would take almost all of the force out of the kick coming back regardless though.
yeah, just an arc of a gear
ahh that makes sense. so the arm is completely decoupled from the spin until you kick - thanks for the info
As a 30+ year mechanic I love the kickstarter idea although if something ever goes wrong with the mechanism you made and that thing does just one rotation backwards the lever WILL brake your leg in half
you're absolutely right.. I think i'm gonna switch to electric start
Lookin nice brother 👍🏾👍🏾💪🏽💪🏽
Great video project. 60 years ago I made one with a 2 1/2 hp horizontal shaft engine above the real wheel and a jack shaft under the seat at 10 y/o. I added a hand clutch and a 3 speed rear wheel. Wish I had your wheels and that 11 hp!
My sister had a Yamaha RD350 with a kit shift self destruction mode. When the lever flipped back after a kick it didn't fully disengage. as such, it pressed hard against the back of your calf. The previous owner let the pivot out top of the lever that goes under your foot wear so badly his foot slipped off at the bottom. That let the lever spring back up and hit the stop really hard. Under proper use it went up to the stop block and then was disengaged and parked. Because his foot flew off it would hit the stop really hard and broke it. That made the gear stop too late and began to engage causing it to push your leg as you rode it. I drilled a hole in the bottom trans case and with a ball end allen wrench I got the part to fall off into the transmission which had a 4 bolt inspection cover on top. I opened the cover, hooked a taillight bulb to the battery and dropped it into the transmission to light it up like mom's kitchen. I used grabbers and magnet sticks to grab the broken pieces. I got a new wedge piece from a motorcycle junkyard that had a similar bike. I JB welded a coat hanger to the wedge piece and lowered it down from the top inspection hole right into position and clamped it. I used chewing gum to hold the allen bolt on the ball end allen driver. I had to work it in from a side angle so the ball of gum made a nice ball joint. I screwed it in, removed the allen wrench, and snapped off the coat hanger JB weld to remove it, and then glued the lower transmission case with JB Welt. It almost looked so good nobody could tell there was a nickel or quarter size hole.Kick start was all fixed. I added weld to the fold out upper kick start lever the foot touches to make sure it was a bit less than 90 degrees so the foot would not slip off at the bottom. You'll have to add a similar device like Yamaha 350 had in 1967 I think it was to the 11 horse engine. I can try to find the diagram of it if I have it here still. jtwent@msn. You need to separate the kick gear from the flywheel gear on a spline perhaps to get full disengagement when the lever is in it's resting spot. Your bike is much fancier than mine but you have nice machine toolsI just had hand tool and a wimpy cheap drill. We had to pay a drunk farmer to do welding for us . He was drunk by 10 am on Saturday--and his wife too. He would be chewing on a cigar when he asked what us boys wanted again. Well lets see if she'll start he'd say. 1/2 the time it didn't and we'd have to come back Saturday night or Sunday or wait till the next weekend. You have it easy with that shop!
He had his work truck in the driveway all the time but would weld for us on Saturdays. The battery was always dead and his fat wife was always in a see through lace lingerie.short robe. It was rough until I got my own stick welder.
sounds like some awesome projects! thanks for the pointers
This is really cool man. Try putting a one way bearing on the crankshaft sprocket for the kickstart.
Cool build! It's pretty normal for a healthy engine with good compression to bounce back off that compression, especially the older ones.
You can actually get metal gears and tapered bearings for these cheap lathes to really get it running like a charm.
Reminds me of the old school minibikes (I wanted one so bad when I was 10) with a Briggs & Stratton engine.
Yay. Another om video. Thanks Oliver.
Upgrade the chuck on that lathe and you will find it to be a lot better. Great build and channel. I remember when you first started making content. You've come a long way.
Ummmm....is the kickstarter assembly seriously restricting air flow to cool the engine?!
Up next is the water cooling conversion 😁😁🤣🤣
Coil gap being set to wide makes an engine kick back. I’ve had generators absolutely pull the starter rope right through my fingers when starting and will kick the engine back when cutting off.
Awesome!
The kickback may be the rebound from compression as it spins down after the ignition is cut.
That engine seems like it has some good compression. To me it looks like after the engine shuts down, its the piston bouncing off the compression stroke. There isn't enough momentum in the flywheel to pull it through another compression stroke and it causes the engine to spin backwards for half a turn or so which causes that starter clutch to lock up and slam into itself.
I second that, it's pretty much inherent in a single cylinder engine
When you realize halfway trough a pull start would’ve been easier 😂 nah seriously impressive fabricating can’t wait to see it on the road 👍
I really thought it would be EZ...
Oh that's wild
Your options are to physically disconnect the kick start when not in use - like modern kick and pull starts - or else you could possibly use a second one-way clutch/bearing tethered to something stationary so that it simply can't turn backwards.
yeah that's what I was thinking
Nice work! Great to see @mustie1 commenting also. One question for you though. Are you at all worried that you blocked the cooling fins off with the kick start assembly? Seems like that might cause the engine to overheat since there is no airflow being pulled in and pushed across the cooling fins. Keep up the great work!
The kick start is pretty cool, try to adjust the timing,or add “a decompressor shutoff” like an old rotax single cylinder snowmobile engine,so that way it won’t kick back , it should fix that problem 100%, or go back like someone suggested and put a generator/starter on it
So would that be just be a valve that ports into the cylinder head?
Yes, you could machine/grind a couple fins to make a spot to drill/tap/thread in a spot for a decompressor , it should be fairly easy, it would also make it a lot easier to start , and could be used as a killswitch
I think your letting the ignition come back on before it's done spinning and that's causing a tiny backfire in the reverse direction. Keep it ground till it completely stops spinning
On the kickstarter issue at the end, is it possible to have a quarter turn feature that disengages the kickstart lever when not in use - i.e. when the kickstart lever is turned out for a kickstart, it engages the spin shaft to enable the lever action - then when running, is flipped back out of the way which would also disengage the kickstart lever from the spin shaft and therefore any action from any kickback, etc.?
Hmmm that’s a great thought, I’ll have to chew on this a bit
Alright, I'm now convinced everyone saying AI is great got gaslit into thinking that lmao
The kickback is normal because it’s a magneto engine unless you’re using a Killswitch then it might just have a hotspot on the piston and it’s running lean
probably can get it to stop backfiring by getting it running good and having the drive belt on. take the plug wire off and it shouldn't be able to fire, need ignition cutoff
Nem precisa calcular meu amigo, só por uma catraca de bicicleta no lugar dessa de partida com mola, a catraca trava de um lado e fica livre do outro
sprag clutch for a chinese scooter - recognized it right away!
My buddy cut up a 250 Elsinore and put in a 6hp brigs. Had a jack shaft and it actually got around in fields ok. Problem was bracing. The frame started flexing and thay pulled the mounting tab on the gas tank. So it cracked a little and leaked on the Briggs head. I look over and see 6 inches of flames coming from his crotch. He discounted like an Olympic gymnast. The bike was on fire and he was just standing there in shock. I honestly crashed my xr250 trying to turn around. I was laughing so hard I couldn't get up let alone help. He was pissed for about 10 minutes. Then he saw the humor of the flaming crotch.. Damn I'm still laughing 35 years later...
Points gap being set to wide will make an engine kick back.
Oh interesting . I might check that out
Yaaaay!
Great job on kick start well to be honest please consider electric starter 1 less parts 2 the starter will be hidden 3 when bending pipe with torch pack pipe with sand cap off then heat and bend
Honestly, after seeing the results of the kick starter, and how complicated it makes everything. I am considering just doing an electric start haha. Thanks for the advice, the metal I was bending was actually solid rod!
shouldnt the one way bearing be on the motor end? running the chain to the kick starter all the time is kind of a drag on things.
haha I'm glad you caught that. about halfway through building the thing I realized that is a way better plan.
The kickstart was ambitious, nice work. Does it kickback when it quits with a kill switch?
Not as bad as if it dies from lack of throttle, but yes
Just wondering if a compression release operated simultaneously with the kill switch would stop the kickback
LOL about the AI gaslighting session.
You could replace the flywheel nut with a stock briggs pullstart ball clutch & link your chain to it so it wouldn't be spinning all the time?...
Interesting. I haven’t thought of that.
You should totally copy a push mower pull cord design and put it sideways and add a kick it uses chucks that fly out and grip on the fly wheel then disconnect when done that would be best
On the side of the engine under the carburetor there should be a small cover with 2 skrews take it off and set your points gap to 20 thousandth of an inch should stop that issue.
Hot Damn !
Is that an antique Wisconsin engine?
It’s an onan Montgomery, made in Brazil
I don't think you have enough air flow through those slits in the pulley cover. That's your cooling air entrance and you've almost blocked it all off.
It started. That's cool but, when do you take it for the first ride?
next video!
@@OliverMotorized ; Kewl, looking forward to seeing your project bike rolling down the road. The Grand Finale that makes it a bonified success.
top speed run to come ?
yes !
Lol, go back to the pull start! Yer gonna bust your ankle. Good job, though, very impressive fabricating.
I think I might... Which is a shame because this was a lot of work lol
@ It looked like a lot of work. At the end of the day, you learned something which is valuable in itself.
Change over to electric start or just use starter Bendix and flywheel with starter ring gear. Oh yeah put a muffler on it for neighbors, unless you like police visits.
I ordered parts for electric start!
So second time I didn’t see this thing run ….,
That's a lot of extra weight not to mention all the added hassle of building it. I would of just made it a pull start with rope.
gosh I feel the same way, unfortunately. but it was still fun to build
@@OliverMotorized It was also fun to watch, so it's not all bad.
1:28 ok Sheldon 😅
what name of your engine meaning brand
Onan Montgomery
@@OliverMotorized thank you i have one similar what year is it if u can tell
It be rope start for me.
putting an electric start would add more weight especially battery
True, but this kick starter mechanism takes up a lot of space and has many failure points haha
I hope you don't get the nickname "one-legged-Oliver". What if the Chinese stuff locks up. It's cool though. Very steam-punkish look.
How dare yt hide this from me
haha it happens
No point in Britain. Its completely illegal, and comes under same laws, rules and regulations as a full size motorcycle.
same here. but luckily i live in a rural area so I can get away with some shenanigans.
Oliver, this isn't a motorized bike. It has no pedals. This is a bicycle framed motorcycle.
Hi Matt, I think you're right. I think this engine was too wide for me to be able to keep the pedals!
@@OliverMotorized LOL as long as I've watched you, you always have cut off the pedals! 🤣 You hate pedals.
I miss the days when you were cutting apart cheapo walmart bikes. and hobbling stuff together. I dont have any of these fancy machines :(
so it just isnt interesting to me anymore. Good luck.
yeah understandable, I can see how it can be less relatable with all the expensive tools. appreciate you watching though.
Use chat gpt. Its thr best ai
Points gap being set to wide will make an engine kick back.