Replaced the control board on the S15i. This worked to fix the dead bike. We now have a surge protector with a switch to turn off the power after use. Got one with a long cord so the switch is near the handle so it should be easy to turn off,and on.
Just completed replacement of controller board. Video is correct. The screws loosen counter-clockwise. I used a 5mm allen wrench for the M6 screws. You don't need to remove the right panel; just remove the top screw which screws into the left panel. Otherwise, can't remove the left panel.
I have the right size Allen wrench but having a hard time trying the screws loose. When I try to rotate counter clockwise, the pedals turn and it feels like my wrench is gonna break
Just finished installing mine took me about 30min total not difficult at all however, you do not need to completely remove the right panel, you’re just create more work for yourself you’ll see what I mean when you start doing it. Also the symptoms of my bike were incline, decline or resistance wasn’t working.
Thanks IFIT, this video really helped me do a simple job. Everyone else...get a surge protector. Its also better using the surge protector switch than unplugging after use. You may ask, why doesn't the Nordic bike have a switch and an internal surge protector?
My battery went out on my 1200w battery backed up surge suppressor... So controller board went out on me anyway... Nordic needs to upgrade these machines I'm paying for ifit I can't use right now... The board on my x22i has been replaced also...
I don't understand, if the controller is only located on LEFT SIDE, why does the RIGHT shield need to be removed? I saw nothing in the video that suggested removing the RIGHT shield was prudent. This step was completely unnecessary.
You don't need to take it off. Just a screw on top that is common with the left side shield. Don't touch the right side and save yourself a ton of time!
@@KevinBrownAZ Especially true if you have S15i. The right side instructions suggest slide right cover through front of bike but not enough clearance on s15i (we have v8), so I moved right shield back into place and secured with one screw into frame. Don't take off right.
I just replaced the controller board and immediately after plugging the unit in (correctly) the bike calibrated. However the screen is still black and the incline and resistance do not work. When I unplug the speaker on the screen it makes a sound indicating there is power to the screen. Any ideas?
How do I know if my controller board is dead or the console (or something else)? My screen is completely black though I do hear the fans whirring in the console. The bike does raise up/down when plugging in (though this doesn't happen all the time). Really hoping it's a controller board issue and not the console as that's so much more expensive.
To know for sure you can measure the output voltage from the controller to the console on the red and corresponding black wire in the upright harness. with the console plugged in you should have about 12VDC to the console on this wire. Some failed controllers will only deliver 6VDC when the console is connected. This may be enough voltage to get the console dans and brain board to operate. (The incline is controlled by the brain board.) The tablet however needs 12VDC to come on. It sounds like the controller isn't delivering enough power to the tablet display but you would need to measure it to know for sure. It's possible it is a fault in the tablet, but I think that is less likely.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Tech support sent me a doc with this: 1. Use a voltage meter to test the voltage at the controller. 2. Disconnect any wire between the console and controller, then test the voltage at the controller again. If the controller receives 5-6 VDC when connected to the console, then 12 VDC when disconnected from the console, the controller will need to be replaced.
On a second call in, I was told I should not do that. I have a multimeter but not sure how to check voltage in the controller. Instead the second person said I should just check the led in the controller board. Green is good, and Red is bad. I got green AND red (still presumably bad controller). The red did a pattern of 42: Four flashes, gap, two flashes, longer gap. I'm looking for information about what that means. For my unit, controller is $131 but console is $650. I will probably order a controller while hoping I can find a way to decode that 42 pattern.
This seems a very unreliable machine, I have one that no longer applies load but am unsure whether it’s the motor or controller that is the problem, does anybody have any tips as to how to work this out. Mine is out of warranty so don’t want to replace parts in-necessarily
What should the voltage coming out of the lower controller be? I'm measuring 22-25V and experiencing the issue that the console will not turn on. Trying to figure out if replacing the LCB will do any good
They may have used a thread lock on the bolt. I have had to use a large socket wrench with a hexhead socket to get some of these out. Also make sure you are turning the bolt the correct direction. Some of these bikes use a Left Hand threaded bolt. these should be marked with the letters "LH" or an arrow that shoes the direction to tighten the bolt,(turn the bolt the opposite of the arrow)
@@eloymacias3453 No, I wasn’t able to remove the pedal. I just rotated the cover around until it slid down the shaft of the left pedal. I am pretty sure I warped the plastic in the process but was able to get just enough access to the fucking PCB board. Oh and don’t forget to unplug the bike.
I have an S15i bike. The console is completely black when plugged in, I can head power to it and when I unplug it there’s a little power down “pop”. I looked at the control board and it seems the red led is constantly blinking. Also none of the controls on the handle do anything. Should the board be replaced or is it the console?
Probably the Control Board. I have seen them fail where they are sending about 6 VDC to the console wich is enough to make the speakers pop but the tablet needs 12VDC to power on.
Thanks for the reply! So replace the control board? Or would you be concerned the console itself is dead. Where would I test for voltage to the console? Thanks !
@@RJ-Rocks You should be able to measure 12VDC on the red to black wires in the main wire harness. If you do not have 12VDC then it is the controller. I think that the controller is likely the part you need anyway. Measure this voltage with needle probs on your multimeter and leave the console connected. I've seen some controllers show 12vdc with the console disconnected but only about 6 vdc when the console is connected. This could give a false impression that the console is getting power when it is not.
there are some symptoms that can indicate that a replacement control board may be likely. The only way to know for sure would be to use a multimeter and test the outputs of the control board or bench test the motors and wires to rule them out. A bad controller can cause the console not to light even though the LED's on the controller are illuminated. Also If all the wires are intact but the Incline , resistance and cadence all don't work that can indicate a software issue with the controller.
how can we be sure the controller is bad, my bike is clearly drawing power IE arcs when i plug it in but has no beeps or anything with buttons and screen doesnt come on, and where do i get the correct board for a s15i
you can order replacement parts from the manufacturer at www.iconservice.com. Be sure to reference your complete model number to make sure you get the right board. you can use a voltage multimeter to check the voltage from the board to the console. You should have ~12vdc from the board between the red and black wires in the main harness.
We have been using ours for awhile now, then one day last week it just stopped counting rpm, distance gone, you can adjust incline and resistance with the buttons on the handles, and on the screen it shows it adjusted, but it doesn’t actually adjust. I called nordicktrack, and they think I need a new console(didn’t really seem like they knew what they were talking about though. That’s almost as much as I paid for the bike (used). Could it be the controller. Any ideas?
If it is no longer keeping track of the cadence you may just need to adjust your reed switch (speed sensor). I would adjust the position of the reed switch before replacing any other parts.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp I have the exact same issue - reed switch adjustment does nothing. No activity on the incline motor when I increase or decrease the incline (but the console show incline increments / decrements).
@@arjuncholkar2722 You may have a different issue. If you have more than one symptom it is not likely to be just a reed switch adjustment. The parts that are common between the cadence and the incline would be the controller, upright wires, and console. Typically if the console is behaving like expected it probably is working. If the resistance is also working correctly then the communication wires in the upright are also probably working. I would start with trying an incline calibration then if that fails replace the controller before more expensive parts.
This may very from model to model but the information I found applies to the late models with the external 36vdc power supply... the 5 blink error means there is a buffer error with the circuit board itself. Try unplugging the bike waiting a few minutes and try again. If the error persists you will need to replace the circuit board.
How do you pinpoint that the control board is the problem? My machine is completely dead. The only indicator available is the green light on the power source box
The controller has some lights on it that will be on if the control board is receiving voltage from the power adapter. If the lights are not on then likely the power is not getting to the controller or the controller is bad. you should be able to visually inspect the wiring. Without certain tools it can be difficult to know for sure. If you have a voltage multimeter then it is easy. the power supply should be producing 36 VDC. If you are getting the 36 VDC into the controller then the controller should be producing 12 VDC to operate the console. thia voltage should be able to be measured between the red and black wires on the upright wire leaving the controller. If there is not 12 VDC the controller is bad. If there is not 36 VDC into the controller then check your power supply and wires from the supply to the harness.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp I have checked and the voltage coming out of the control board is in line with your comment. What could be the next culprit? My bike and console seems completely dead.
@@relentless8062 the 12 dvc owers the console. you should be able to get the same 12vdc at the console. If not then there is a problem with the wires. if voltage is at the console but the console does not light then it is in the console. Have you had any parts replaced ? and what is your model and version # (ie; NTEX02121.2)?
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp we checked the voltage at the connection under the console as well and had 12 bolts there, too. There have been no past issues or any replacement parts installed. Model # NTEX02117NB.8
@@relentless8062 I only ask because I have seen a number of instances where the customer or repair tech has installed replacement wires backwards keeping the console from lighting. If you have 12VDC to the console and the console does not light you will need a new console.
Is this a common failure piece? I just assembled my s15i and I have no incline or resistance. The monitor reads the changes, but the bike doesn't respond. Nordictrack is sending me a replacement board. This video helps a ton!
@@jeremyrivas8326 I think so. I picked up a used bike on Marketplace - so no warranty- and it has this problem. You can’t buy the part though, apparently because all their inventory is going onto warranty repairs! I got a good deal but it’s only a deal if I can get the darn thing working! 😡 Waiting 2 months so far....
@@nataliejones4720 I just called to check on the board I need. Sounds like they wont have stock on it until the 2nd week of April. Crazy that I would have a bad board on a brand new never used machine... Hoping that this fixes the issue so we can finally start using it. Very disappointing.
This video illustrates removing the left crank by turning the M6 bolt counter-clockwise. However, the bolt on the left is reverse threaded....so if you do as the commentator did, you will strip the bolt! On my bolt, there is a little error going in the counter-clockwise direction that says "tighten"....so I saw this before following the video. My problem was....the bolt was tightened so much that trying to loosen it stripped it :(. So now it is stripped, and is in there so tight, and I have no clue how to get it out. I've watched all the UA-cam videos but because it is in there so tight, none of them will work. Does anyone have any tips on how to unscrew a left sided reversed-threaded M6 crank bolt that is on there super tight??
@@villanaty08 I'm paying a pro bicycle repairperson or handyman to come to my house. I'm annoyed because the bolt was on there so tight and I simply tried to unscrew it in the correct direction. I think the take-away is...use a good quality Allen wrench that will not strip.
@@SandraDiDomizio can i ask how they removed it, if you saw? i have a impact driver and it still wont budge, and before that i snapped the head right off my allen wrench.
They can be on pretty tight. Sometimes I need to use some plyers to help pull them on some boards. Make sure to grab the blue connector not the wire, to help prevent damage.
There could be several causes for this. It could be the control board. check for any LED lights on the control board. This will tell you that you have power from the wall though any kind of power supply or on/off switches. Next verify the wires between the controller and the console have not come loose or have been damaged. (Have any parts been replaced? If so, some wires can be plugged in reversed, they have a tag indicating which end connects to the console make sure this tag if present is on the console end of the wire.) Is there any indication that power is getting to the console? Do the speakers pop or crackle do you hear a small fan noise from the back of the display? If you have indications of power to the console, it may be the control board or the console. I would replace the control board first since it is less expensive and seems to be most likely in my experiences lately.
Pretty sure it is. Same happened to mine. I ordered a new screen because I could still adjust the incline but it had a black screen. A few days later no power. A tech came out to install the screen and told me the issue was the controller.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp My display stopped working. I checked that the control board lights are on, but the console does not come on and no controls work. Has anyone had to replace the display?
@@3lanemsmith You will need your specific model number to make sure you order the correct part. Replacement parts are available from the manufacturer at www.iconservice.com or by calling the number on your user's manual. If you are under warranty you will want to call.
I need to perform this repair on my s15i but I can’t find the part! It’s been out of stock with icon for months! I don’t have a warranty so I have to find a place to buy it myself.
I just replaced the controller board and immediately after plugging the unit in (correctly) the bike calibrated. However the screen is still black and the incline and resistance do not work. When I unplug the speaker on the screen it makes a sound indicating there is power to the screen. Any ideas?
If the controller is new (and presumably outputting 12VDC to the console). Then that would indicate a failure in the console. If you have a way to check DC power to the console you should have 12VDC measured between the red and black wires in the harness when the console is plugged in. If it drops to 6 VDC when the console is plugged in then the control board is bad and I would ask for a replacement if your retailer offered any kind of guarantee.
Thank you.., this helped me do a simple job myself. Make sure to check the pedals are in the opposite direction when replacing 😅
Replaced the control board on the S15i. This worked to fix the dead bike. We now have a surge protector with a switch to turn off the power after use. Got one with a long cord so the switch is near the handle so it should be easy to turn off,and on.
Just completed replacement of controller board. Video is correct. The screws loosen counter-clockwise. I used a 5mm allen wrench for the M6 screws. You don't need to remove the right panel; just remove the top screw which screws into the left panel. Otherwise, can't remove the left panel.
I noticed that too - it makes ZERO sense to double the work when it is unnecessary.
I have the right size Allen wrench but having a hard time trying the screws loose. When I try to rotate counter clockwise, the pedals turn and it feels like my wrench is gonna break
Just finished installing mine took me about 30min total not difficult at all however, you do not need to completely remove the right panel, you’re just create more work for yourself you’ll see what I mean when you start doing it. Also the symptoms of my bike were incline, decline or resistance wasn’t working.
Thanks IFIT, this video really helped me do a simple job. Everyone else...get a surge protector. Its also better using the surge protector switch than unplugging after use. You may ask, why doesn't the Nordic bike have a switch and an internal surge protector?
Yes, thanks IFIT for sending me a defective bike and forcing to dismantle it and wait for weeks for a replacement part.
I think it does have a switch and protector located right where the electrical cord goes into the machine
My battery went out on my 1200w battery backed up surge suppressor... So controller board went out on me anyway... Nordic needs to upgrade these machines I'm paying for ifit I can't use right now... The board on my x22i has been replaced also...
The new machines do not have a power switch. @@TRYtoHELPyou
I don't understand, if the controller is only located on LEFT SIDE, why does the RIGHT shield need to be removed?
I saw nothing in the video that suggested removing the RIGHT shield was prudent.
This step was completely unnecessary.
You don't need to take it off. Just a screw on top that is common with the left side shield. Don't touch the right side and save yourself a ton of time!
@@KevinBrownAZ Especially true if you have S15i. The right side instructions suggest slide right cover through front of bike but not enough clearance on s15i (we have v8), so I moved right shield back into place and secured with one screw into frame. Don't take off right.
I just replaced the controller board and immediately after plugging the unit in (correctly) the bike calibrated. However the screen is still black and the incline and resistance do not work. When I unplug the speaker on the screen it makes a sound indicating there is power to the screen. Any ideas?
How do I know if my controller board is dead or the console (or something else)? My screen is completely black though I do hear the fans whirring in the console. The bike does raise up/down when plugging in (though this doesn't happen all the time). Really hoping it's a controller board issue and not the console as that's so much more expensive.
To know for sure you can measure the output voltage from the controller to the console on the red and corresponding black wire in the upright harness. with the console plugged in you should have about 12VDC to the console on this wire. Some failed controllers will only deliver 6VDC when the console is connected. This may be enough voltage to get the console dans and brain board to operate. (The incline is controlled by the brain board.) The tablet however needs 12VDC to come on. It sounds like the controller isn't delivering enough power to the tablet display but you would need to measure it to know for sure. It's possible it is a fault in the tablet, but I think that is less likely.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp Tech support sent me a doc with this:
1. Use a voltage meter to test the voltage at the controller.
2. Disconnect any wire between the console and controller, then test the voltage at the controller
again.
If the controller receives 5-6 VDC when connected to the console, then 12 VDC when disconnected
from the console, the controller will need to be replaced.
On a second call in, I was told I should not do that. I have a multimeter but not sure how to check voltage in the controller. Instead the second person said I should just check the led in the controller board. Green is good, and Red is bad. I got green AND red (still presumably bad controller). The red did a pattern of 42: Four flashes, gap, two flashes, longer gap. I'm looking for information about what that means. For my unit, controller is $131 but console is $650. I will probably order a controller while hoping I can find a way to decode that 42 pattern.
This seems a very unreliable machine, I have one that no longer applies load but am unsure whether it’s the motor or controller that is the problem, does anybody have any tips as to how to work this out. Mine is out of warranty so don’t want to replace parts in-necessarily
Please mention to people to make sure unit is unplugged. Would hate for someone to get one hell of a shock.
What should the voltage coming out of the lower controller be? I'm measuring 22-25V and experiencing the issue that the console will not turn on. Trying to figure out if replacing the LCB will do any good
Console voltage out of the lower controll board should be 12vdc. The console operates on 12vdc.
My S15i has much larger hex sizes and it is impossible to get the shaft off. Any suggestions?
They may have used a thread lock on the bolt. I have had to use a large socket wrench with a hexhead socket to get some of these out. Also make sure you are turning the bolt the correct direction. Some of these bikes use a Left Hand threaded bolt. these should be marked with the letters "LH" or an arrow that shoes the direction to tighten the bolt,(turn the bolt the opposite of the arrow)
I have the same issue where you able to figure this out?
@@eloymacias3453 No, I wasn’t able to remove the pedal. I just rotated the cover around until it slid down the shaft of the left pedal. I am pretty sure I warped the plastic in the process but was able to get just enough access to the fucking PCB board.
Oh and don’t forget to unplug the bike.
I have an S15i bike. The console is completely black when plugged in, I can head power to it and when I unplug it there’s a little power down “pop”. I looked at the control board and it seems the red led is constantly blinking. Also none of the controls on the handle do anything. Should the board be replaced or is it the console?
I just looked at the two led’s. Green one is always on and the red one below is it just pulsating consistently.
Probably the Control Board. I have seen them fail where they are sending about 6 VDC to the console wich is enough to make the speakers pop but the tablet needs 12VDC to power on.
@@RJ-Rocks The red one is pulsing because it is waiting for communication from the console.
Thanks for the reply! So replace the control board? Or would you be concerned the console itself is dead.
Where would I test for voltage to the console?
Thanks !
@@RJ-Rocks You should be able to measure 12VDC on the red to black wires in the main wire harness. If you do not have 12VDC then it is the controller. I think that the controller is likely the part you need anyway. Measure this voltage with needle probs on your multimeter and leave the console connected. I've seen some controllers show 12vdc with the console disconnected but only about 6 vdc when the console is connected. This could give a false impression that the console is getting power when it is not.
How do you know if the controller board needs replacing?
there are some symptoms that can indicate that a replacement control board may be likely. The only way to know for sure would be to use a multimeter and test the outputs of the control board or bench test the motors and wires to rule them out. A bad controller can cause the console not to light even though the LED's on the controller are illuminated. Also If all the wires are intact but the Incline , resistance and cadence all don't work that can indicate a software issue with the controller.
Hi I’m strugling to skip forward a ride I’m on a set of 12 it keeps repeating ride I. Any help please Nordic are rubbish to get hold of many thanks
I would log into the mobile app on a smart device like a phone or tablet. you can control your schedule or change workout preferences there.
how can we be sure the controller is bad, my bike is clearly drawing power IE arcs when i plug it in but has no beeps or anything with buttons and screen doesnt come on, and where do i get the correct board for a s15i
you can order replacement parts from the manufacturer at www.iconservice.com. Be sure to reference your complete model number to make sure you get the right board. you can use a voltage multimeter to check the voltage from the board to the console. You should have ~12vdc from the board between the red and black wires in the main harness.
We have been using ours for awhile now, then one day last week it just stopped counting rpm, distance gone, you can adjust incline and resistance with the buttons on the handles, and on the screen it shows it adjusted, but it doesn’t actually adjust. I called nordicktrack, and they think I need a new console(didn’t really seem like they knew what they were talking about though. That’s almost as much as I paid for the bike (used). Could it be the controller. Any ideas?
If it is no longer keeping track of the cadence you may just need to adjust your reed switch (speed sensor). I would adjust the position of the reed switch before replacing any other parts.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp I have the exact same issue - reed switch adjustment does nothing. No activity on the incline motor when I increase or decrease the incline (but the console show incline increments / decrements).
@@arjuncholkar2722 You may have a different issue. If you have more than one symptom it is not likely to be just a reed switch adjustment. The parts that are common between the cadence and the incline would be the controller, upright wires, and console. Typically if the console is behaving like expected it probably is working. If the resistance is also working correctly then the communication wires in the upright are also probably working. I would start with trying an incline calibration then if that fails replace the controller before more expensive parts.
My controller's LED is flashing red 5 times and then stops. Resistance and incline is not working. Does this mean i need a new controller?
This may very from model to model but the information I found applies to the late models with the external 36vdc power supply... the 5 blink error means there is a buffer error with the circuit board itself. Try unplugging the bike waiting a few minutes and try again. If the error persists you will need to replace the circuit board.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp I got a 42 instead of 52. Where did you find the 52 code, and what does it say about 42? Thanks.
Directions unclear, home is now on fire.
How do you pinpoint that the control board is the problem? My machine is completely dead. The only indicator available is the green light on the power source box
The controller has some lights on it that will be on if the control board is receiving voltage from the power adapter. If the lights are not on then likely the power is not getting to the controller or the controller is bad. you should be able to visually inspect the wiring. Without certain tools it can be difficult to know for sure.
If you have a voltage multimeter then it is easy. the power supply should be producing 36 VDC. If you are getting the 36 VDC into the controller then the controller should be producing 12 VDC to operate the console. thia voltage should be able to be measured between the red and black wires on the upright wire leaving the controller. If there is not 12 VDC the controller is bad. If there is not 36 VDC into the controller then check your power supply and wires from the supply to the harness.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp I have checked and the voltage coming out of the control board is in line with your comment. What could be the next culprit? My bike and console seems completely dead.
@@relentless8062 the 12 dvc owers the console. you should be able to get the same 12vdc at the console. If not then there is a problem with the wires. if voltage is at the console but the console does not light then it is in the console. Have you had any parts replaced ? and what is your model and version # (ie; NTEX02121.2)?
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp we checked the voltage at the connection under the console as well and had 12 bolts there, too. There have been no past issues or any replacement parts installed. Model # NTEX02117NB.8
@@relentless8062 I only ask because I have seen a number of instances where the customer or repair tech has installed replacement wires backwards keeping the console from lighting. If you have 12VDC to the console and the console does not light you will need a new console.
What tool removes the M6 crank screw? None of my tools are that small.
It is designed for a 3mm Allen wrench.
Is this a common failure piece? I just assembled my s15i and I have no incline or resistance. The monitor reads the changes, but the bike doesn't respond. Nordictrack is sending me a replacement board. This video helps a ton!
@@jeremyrivas8326 I think so. I picked up a used bike on Marketplace - so no warranty- and it has this problem. You can’t buy the part though, apparently because all their inventory is going onto warranty repairs! I got a good deal but it’s only a deal if I can get the darn thing working! 😡 Waiting 2 months so far....
@@nataliejones4720 I just called to check on the board I need. Sounds like they wont have stock on it until the 2nd week of April. Crazy that I would have a bad board on a brand new never used machine... Hoping that this fixes the issue so we can finally start using it. Very disappointing.
I said the same thing to my ex, before I rammed my screw driver in her socket.
This video illustrates removing the left crank by turning the M6 bolt counter-clockwise. However, the bolt on the left is reverse threaded....so if you do as the commentator did, you will strip the bolt! On my bolt, there is a little error going in the counter-clockwise direction that says "tighten"....so I saw this before following the video. My problem was....the bolt was tightened so much that trying to loosen it stripped it :(. So now it is stripped, and is in there so tight, and I have no clue how to get it out. I've watched all the UA-cam videos but because it is in there so tight, none of them will work. Does anyone have any tips on how to unscrew a left sided reversed-threaded M6 crank bolt that is on there super tight??
This happened to me 😩 I dont know what to do
@@villanaty08 I'm paying a pro bicycle repairperson or handyman to come to my house. I'm annoyed because the bolt was on there so tight and I simply tried to unscrew it in the correct direction. I think the take-away is...use a good quality Allen wrench that will not strip.
@@SandraDiDomizio can i ask how they removed it, if you saw? i have a impact driver and it still wont budge, and before that i snapped the head right off my allen wrench.
I just did this on my S22i (Model NTEX021170NB.9). Mine loosened counter-clockwise.
I also used a little PB Blaster on the bolts. Turns out one of them had thread lock on it, which helps explain the brute force needed to loosed them.
Can’t get the blue wire caps off the circuit board
They can be on pretty tight. Sometimes I need to use some plyers to help pull them on some boards. Make sure to grab the blue connector not the wire, to help prevent damage.
My bicycle does not turn on, it is connected and the screen does not turn on… is it the motor control? please help
There could be several causes for this. It could be the control board. check for any LED lights on the control board. This will tell you that you have power from the wall though any kind of power supply or on/off switches. Next verify the wires between the controller and the console have not come loose or have been damaged. (Have any parts been replaced? If so, some wires can be plugged in reversed, they have a tag indicating which end connects to the console make sure this tag if present is on the console end of the wire.) Is there any indication that power is getting to the console? Do the speakers pop or crackle do you hear a small fan noise from the back of the display? If you have indications of power to the console, it may be the control board or the console. I would replace the control board first since it is less expensive and seems to be most likely in my experiences lately.
Pretty sure it is. Same happened to mine. I ordered a new screen because I could still adjust the incline but it had a black screen. A few days later no power. A tech came out to install the screen and told me the issue was the controller.
@@FitnessEquipmentHelp My display stopped working. I checked that the control board lights are on, but the console does not come on and no controls work. Has anyone had to replace the display?
How do I order a new control board for a S22i?@@FitnessEquipmentHelp
@@3lanemsmith You will need your specific model number to make sure you order the correct part. Replacement parts are available from the manufacturer at www.iconservice.com or by calling the number on your user's manual. If you are under warranty you will want to call.
that right pedal does not come off very easily at all
Sadly you don't even need to remove it or the right side shield. Just one screw on top that is shared with the left side shield.
I need to perform this repair on my s15i but I can’t find the part! It’s been out of stock with icon for months! I don’t have a warranty so I have to find a place to buy it myself.
I just called and spoke with technical support and they are shipping one out to me, you should call
Icon supplies the board
I just replaced the controller board and immediately after plugging the unit in (correctly) the bike calibrated. However the screen is still black and the incline and resistance do not work. When I unplug the speaker on the screen it makes a sound indicating there is power to the screen. Any ideas?
If the controller is new (and presumably outputting 12VDC to the console). Then that would indicate a failure in the console. If you have a way to check DC power to the console you should have 12VDC measured between the red and black wires in the harness when the console is plugged in. If it drops to 6 VDC when the console is plugged in then the control board is bad and I would ask for a replacement if your retailer offered any kind of guarantee.