8a has been my dream forever. I am currently at 7c and Im wondering what should I train more, endurance or strength. What was your bouldering level at the time of sending this beast? On rock and moonboard or some other system board? Im really trying to prepare myself for projecting trips this season because I dont get to climb on rock that much. Also great content, I believe you will get much bigger if you keep at it.
The answer on this question depends on the route(s) you intend to climb and on your current strengths. There are short, bouldery 8as and long, sustained ones. Personally, I'm pretty bad at the former ones and better at the latter ones. I have never done any systematic training with a moonboard or anything else - I just climbed a ton on different rock. The result is that I have gotten good at onsighting routes in all kinds of styles and that I have a really good endurance. However, my bouldering strength is rubbish. This is becoming a problem for any further progress because I find that I just can't do the crux moves in 8bs and can therefore not even begin to project them ;-) All that being said, I believe that a lot of climbers have the physical strength and endurance to climb 8a and even harder. What holds them back more often is the fear of falling, even if it's very subconscious (ask yourself: do you actually try the hardest you can when climbing above bolts even if you are not sure if you will reach the next hold? Or if a hold is super painful on your skin?). The second thing which can hold you back a lot is speed. Trying to climb statically and securely saps so much power compared to climbing dynamically and fast. Just by working on that, a lot of climbers could jump up a grade or two. Also, it helps a lot if you can spend multiple days over a few weeks working on a single route. I find it completely baffling sometimes, how big the difference is between trying a route the first time and after 5+ tries. Also: Thanks :)
Great quality there ^^ I love your dairies man! How did you realize the fixed shots over the crux? Fixing camera somewhere in a hole? Great job anyway and beautiful climb! ^^
Thank you! I fix an iPhone on a small tripod to a quickdraw, hit record, lower two draws, fix myself there and pull the rope. Obviously, you can‘t do that on a redpoint attempt, so I will often climb without filming and when I send it, come back to film. although in this video, the footage from the last part of the 8a is from the actual send with a drone on autofollow 🙃
@@samuelbuchmann Thanks for the explanation, very cool! If you ever drive in France for some climb around Saint Leger, Ceuse, and the other legendary places, I would be happy to share some nice climbs! Cheers!
@@gabrieleleoncini9004 Ah that sounds great, actually, thanks! I might hit you up later in Spring 👍🏼 If you like, you can send me a DM on Insta so I have a contact (@samuelbuchmann).
Thanks! The DJI Drones have some auto follow options. Sometimes they work quite well, but often they don't if you move vertically (like in climbing). I kinda stopped using those auto tracking modes lately. It's usually better to just place the drone statically and then do multiple laps of the climb.
Awsome. I tried one 8a in Rabenstein Austria and it is really hard. I climbed just one 7c so I ihink 8a is a bit over the limit for me 😁
8a has been my dream forever. I am currently at 7c and Im wondering what should I train more, endurance or strength. What was your bouldering level at the time of sending this beast? On rock and moonboard or some other system board? Im really trying to prepare myself for projecting trips this season because I dont get to climb on rock that much. Also great content, I believe you will get much bigger if you keep at it.
The answer on this question depends on the route(s) you intend to climb and on your current strengths. There are short, bouldery 8as and long, sustained ones. Personally, I'm pretty bad at the former ones and better at the latter ones. I have never done any systematic training with a moonboard or anything else - I just climbed a ton on different rock. The result is that I have gotten good at onsighting routes in all kinds of styles and that I have a really good endurance. However, my bouldering strength is rubbish. This is becoming a problem for any further progress because I find that I just can't do the crux moves in 8bs and can therefore not even begin to project them ;-)
All that being said, I believe that a lot of climbers have the physical strength and endurance to climb 8a and even harder. What holds them back more often is the fear of falling, even if it's very subconscious (ask yourself: do you actually try the hardest you can when climbing above bolts even if you are not sure if you will reach the next hold? Or if a hold is super painful on your skin?). The second thing which can hold you back a lot is speed. Trying to climb statically and securely saps so much power compared to climbing dynamically and fast. Just by working on that, a lot of climbers could jump up a grade or two. Also, it helps a lot if you can spend multiple days over a few weeks working on a single route. I find it completely baffling sometimes, how big the difference is between trying a route the first time and after 5+ tries.
Also: Thanks :)
Great quality there ^^ I love your dairies man! How did you realize the fixed shots over the crux? Fixing camera somewhere in a hole? Great job anyway and beautiful climb! ^^
Thank you! I fix an iPhone on a small tripod to a quickdraw, hit record, lower two draws, fix myself there and pull the rope. Obviously, you can‘t do that on a redpoint attempt, so I will often climb without filming and when I send it, come back to film. although in this video, the footage from the last part of the 8a is from the actual send with a drone on autofollow 🙃
@@samuelbuchmann Thanks for the explanation, very cool! If you ever drive in France for some climb around Saint Leger, Ceuse, and the other legendary places, I would be happy to share some nice climbs! Cheers!
@@gabrieleleoncini9004 Ah that sounds great, actually, thanks! I might hit you up later in Spring 👍🏼 If you like, you can send me a DM on Insta so I have a contact (@samuelbuchmann).
Very nice video again Samuel 👍
Great job onsight the 7b and finally sending the 8a!🤛
love the editing on these vids! how do you get the drone to follow you?
Thanks! The DJI Drones have some auto follow options. Sometimes they work quite well, but often they don't if you move vertically (like in climbing). I kinda stopped using those auto tracking modes lately. It's usually better to just place the drone statically and then do multiple laps of the climb.