Down here in the northeast I do generator service. It's always lovely to have a block heater fail and cause all kinds of cold water leaks at hose joints due to screw clamps. And after hose replacement you've gotta retorque em a few times after some heat cycles. I do like the spring clamps for the constant tension. But occasionally I've had to replace those with screw style clamps as they still show signs of sweating.
@@JoeZasada Somebody gave me a box of those from harbor freight, After 3-4 of em stripped out upon tightening , I threw em in the scrap pile and I'll get .39c for em when I have enough for the scrap run.
Happy to correct you on this one. I’m a mechanic with over 20 years experience. Those hose clamps are used primarily for one reason and one reason only, speed when fitting in an assembly line. Not only are they a nightmare to remove in tricky places it gets even harder when old hoses swell and yes those clamps do lose their tension over time. Unless you line them up with the indentation they leave in the hose when re fitting guess what? They leak! The majority of the time if a hose has leaked or is leaking after fitting a clamp it’s due to the older hose being hard and is because of the hose not being soft enough to seal around fitting and then it is relying 100 percent on just the tension of the clamp. Fact is I have NEVER had a correctly tensioned clamp on a good condition hose leak. I will always replace the this style of clamp whenever I have to remove them.
I was a mechanic for the post office and twice a year we would get multiple calls for leaking antifreeze. Those calls coincided with the change of the season. The issue was loose hose clamps. I can't say that spring clamps would definitively eliminate the issue but logically it would stand to reason that they would be less likely to leak. As to the difficulty of removing spring clamps from inaccessible locations the use of the right tool for the right job cannot be understated.
I just did a timing belt job on a 2014 VW Golf. These jackass clamps are on everything and I was forced to buy that tool in the video. After losing at least 45 minutes trying to get those special clamps off with every type of pliers I own, the requirement of that special tool is not in any way a positive thing. If you or a friend is on the side of the road, which clamp would you prefer to have? The one that comes off with the screwdriver everyone carries? Yeah me too. Needless to say, after changing my friend's timing belt, I replaced as many of those jackass clamps as I could with new screw-on clamps that sane people use.
the "speed of assembly" claim is a MYTH. There are multiple studies and engineering papers that show spring clamps on coolant hose systems perform much better. A worm clamp is over 3x times more likely to develop a leak with a the >200 degree temp swing that occurs on your heater core and radiator connections.
A few things to mention about this video, you will need to have some fairly significant temperature deltas and rates of change for this adjustability to make any discernable difference. Their use by OEM's has more to do with their speed of install than their temperature compensating or maintainability traits. These clamps do work harden over time and will lose their effectiveness while looking perfectly fine. They are also reliant on the hoses themselves being in good condition as an old hard hose that has taken a set will often not clamp properly when reinstalled with these types of clamps. One benefit of screw clamps that stood out from the video is that you can replace them without having to break the seal on whatever hose you're working with, simply unscrew them all the way and slip them over the hose. Also, some of the "cons" of screw clamps are overstated. If a moron overtightens a clamp to the point of breaking a part they have accomplished something unusual and special. If this has happened to you it might be a fluke, if it has happened to you repeatedly then consider the possibility that you may be a moron.
I usually over-tighten them until the worm gear starts skipping teeth and/or deforming the notches; then I have to start all over only to repeat the mistake. It is my belief that this too qualifies as moronic behavior.
I completely disagree with Will. This video is spot on about the reason for using the spring type hose clamp. Work hardening does not affect spring steel that doesn't exceed yield strength. I used to believe that the spring type was used by manufacturers because of cost or installation, but that's not true. They're just better for applications involving temperature swings. From my experience, spring type clamps are the only practical option. If screw type clamps were better, you'd at least see them on high end cars, but you don't. My biggest complaint is that they're so hard to find at auto parts stores. I guess it's easier to stock just a few screw type sizes.
@@williamyoung3253 We can disagree about a few things but there are a couple of reasons why you find screw clamps in auto parts stores. One is psycological the other is practical. The psychological aspect has to do with the obviousntess of function from tigtehning hte screw. It allows the less experienced to be confidnet the clamp is tight. It's also easier for the uniitated to pick a screw type clamp that will fit rather than having to pick the correct size spring clamp. The practial reason is that they work with hoses that have taken a set that often leak when reused with spring clamps.
It's about time someone mentioned this. I've known this for a while and seen guys use the worm drive style and tell them to use the automotive ones you talk about. They don't listen and just keep complaining about their car leaking or radiator fitting breaking. Course I can't judge too much, I was clueless at first too. I'm really glad you're here to tell everyone.
i totally agree i am a auto technician and work on engines 5 days a week and if you dont put them back the same they will leak but they dam good clamps
@@LatinDanceVideos Its not necessary, I can see the embossed marks on the hose that the clamp leaves. I just didn't know if the clamp needed to be realigned the way it was before. I thought maybe clamping it in a different position would still work, but I was wrong. I didn't realign it and the hose leaked.
@@waterloo123100 it’s always after a few years. Car as a slow leak. I hook the pressure tester to it and just go around and tighten clamps and it’s good.
Had a hose leaking on my coolant surge tank that wouldn't seal with a spring clamp. The solution was a worm clamp. My experience has been opposite of this video. I have never had success reusing spring clamps but I reuse worm clamps successfully all the time.
WOW! I have a 1986 B250 Dodge van and could not find a coolant leak. When it was hot NO LEAK, but once it sat over night I would see a small amount of coolant on the ground, very frustrating.😫 Thank you, so much for your video. 👍
This is invaluable information. When I was younger I let a guy work on my coolant leak. He claimed that the conventional clamps were trash and the screw-in clamps were superior. Sure enough I’ve had problems and fixed it myself, but with screw-in clamps. I’m immediately going back to the store, return these trash clamps and buying pressure retention clips. Thank you so much for your informative video.
@@Julio-jm8ld oh gosh you just reminded me of a terrible memory man I pinched my hand so hard with some needle nose pliers trying to get one of these off I had to get stitches
I've used the old style screw hose clips for over 50 years on my cars, bikes and boats and have never had one fail or lead, and I've never seen one turn bright "RED" as you mentioned.
Ya I have more trouble with those "new style" clamps. Those old style clamps normally out last the hose they are sealing. Also, those new style clamps are actually more difficult in tight places contrary to what the video says, When they turn the wrong way over time........
@@jonthelamb4549 So you're tellin me you've never had one that you couldn't depress enough to get it loose? Or some that don't hardly even have enough surface metal to put a pair of pliers on, I like the spring style clamps for large hose's like for radiator/water pump/thermostat housings because of ease of removal. But when it comes to small hoses like fuel lines ect and high pressure lines screw clamps are the way to go.
@@johnnyrebel9986 I haven’t used them much lol when I do it’s never an issue for me. Like you said the bigger ones are better then the smaller ones kinda depends where it is and what it’s on I guess
@@johnnyrebel9986 I strongly disagree. On small hoses you want to use the single use ones, you crimp on. Worm drive clamps can't (because of the worm drive mechanism) form a small circle to effectively tighten a small diameter hose. Also he specifically said that for use with high temperature fluctuations you need to use the spring type clamp.
Yeah he obviously has 0 experience with automobile repair. I work on cars all day everyday and only use the worm gear ones because the pretension ones never work right after removing them.
Yea, the entire video I'm thinking to myself "the fuck is this guy on about". Good quality worm clamps work fine. Makes you wonder what other videos he has where he just spews BS
I normally agree with you but this time I don't. I'm a diesel mechanic so I work with these daily. They can be some of the hardest ones to get off whenever you do not have clear access. And even then they often jump off the pliers. I have seen plenty of these not be able to hold pressure. We never replace them with the same style we always put worm styles in place. I work at a Freightliner dealership so that tells you something. I'm happy you like them but you're the first person I have ever heard that did.
There’s a set of pliers you can get with cups on the end that make these much easier, but yeah I’ve busted my finger up more than once trying to get squarenoses onto them
Use spring clamp pliers. Game changer. I've worked on vw's tdi's for years and at first i hated spring clamps, but after seeing numerous failures where previous techs had replaced spring with "worm" clamps i became a firm believer in spring clamps. Not only do they work better and never leak, but disassembly and reassembly is much, much quicker than fiddling with worm clamps. I've worn out four sets of cable spring clamp pliers over the years. That's how much i deal with them. Hands down, a superior design.
Don't use pliers unless you have to. Use the spring (constant-tension) clamp tool. It's better and it doesn't ruin the constant tension springs (by bending the prongs). Don't use the tool they show in the video.
That seems like the best of both worlds. I replaced all my constant tension ones with worm screw types when I re-did all the vacuum lines just because the regular constant tension ones are a pain to deal with.
There has to be a way to size these things. They can't be one size fits all like the worm clamp. Maybe you take the od of the pipe and the od of the hose and find a clamp that has an id somewhere in the middle. 😳
PS: I really did like the information you provided. I work with them all the time and have seen leaks with those clamps in use, but I’m also questioning the age of the hose at that point. Usually when there is a leak, there is a bunch of crystallize coolant creating a breach in the sealing surface. Which It’s not necessarily the fault of the clamp.
@@cowboy41231 Wouldn't ya know they just now are changing the name of it. This saddens me. And should sadden native Americans IMO. But every time I reached for that bottle I felt proud of the name. There was never any disrespect. I drive a chevy Cheyenne for crying out loud and I'm proud of that name too. Is it going to be better when they are no long represented on any products? People act as if we put them on toilet paper brands or something.
I never thought about this before but plastic radiator hose spouts may contract at a greater rate than steel or aluminum therefore causing this condition mentioned. Also silicon or soft hoses require the clamps with the liner in them that are much better for small hoses. Saying that I agree with the comments that gear clamps have never failed me. Thanks for the video. I makes us think.
Both clamp styles have their pros and cons - many comments here already cover those. If you want a constant tension screw type clamp, look at the Breeze Constant Torque clamps. Not cheap, but you get the best of both worlds.
10/10 advice. I've never had a spring clamp leak where the hose wasn't compromised somehow. I've had numerous instances of worm drive clamps leading to leaks. That said, all of those leaks happened on smaller diameter connections where the drive box on the worm drive clamp creates a flat spot of sorts where an equally small spring clamp wouldn't. On larger diameter hoses, it's less of an issue (again in my experience).
They go in easy with new stuff but once those hoses get a little swollen they can become a bear especially heater core lines at the firewall that are difficult to reach. Those flex clamps are handy but I’ve encountered times that even fully compressed it didn’t open the clamp far enough and had to get creative with locking needle nose pliers. Constant tension worms are great but they are way more expensive.
@@pjm329 Auto manufacturers use them because a robot can install them instead of a human. The robot presents so many less problems during it's time of use. I hate them. Why, because robots don't go out and spend money which creates jobs. See...
I've read many of the comments below and agree with most, of the ones I read. The tension springs are not new and works just great when everything under the hood is new. Frequent high temp through the hose, over clamping and age of the hose can cause distortion in the hose and if made of plastic or thin meta, the connection too. Just because alittle works well, it does not necessarily follows, a lot works better!
I’m a truck driver self thought heavy truck mech and drive from Florida to northern Canada...and I can’t agree with this man more. There is a reason those clamps are used and he is exactly right. I have had “cold water” leaks and took me a while to figure it out. It was the clamps.
I think you got it backwards hoss, the screw type are way better and they stay tight. On the other hand those spring clamps weaken over time and can leak, especially if removed and replaced a number of times.
I’ve never seen one weaken and you might want to buy the right tool to do the job. All my vehicles go north of 400,000 km and I’ve never had a spring clamp fail. That doesn’t even cross my mind that ever be an issue with it.
@@DCSPORTSTER the key word is easy.. the reason they use them is because they are easy not better. Now.. some old timers may be more comfortable with them and that's fine on older vehicles. New vehicles with plastic fittings will either crack or fall off given enough time. If it came from the factory with screws go ahead and use them. If it came with springs it's best to use the springs. Get new ones if you overstress the old ones taking them off with the wrong tool. Oh.. and buy the correct tool as well.
Interesting as those clamps have been factory installed for decades. Always considered them cheap alternative and replaced them with screw clamps whenever servicing my vehicles. Been working on my own cars for 50+ years and was apparently clueless. Thank you for the tip
One thing I will tell you... Sometimes it is dang near impossible to get those clamps off in tight spaces. If you have that problem, once you get them off, don't try to reuse them. Most of them are not designed for reuse. Get new ones. The benefit is that they will be locked open and will easily slide into position on the hose. Then you just squeeze then open and let go. They lock into place. Great info always on this channel! Thanks
Omg thanks!!! I was wondering why I had a leak after mechanic did oil change and no other issues. 😂 your video randomly answered my question in my feed. 👍 thumbs up😊
Hose clamps (OG) are just fine for nearly everything. Multiple cars, pool hoses, you can bet I've used them on everything. They work and are infinitely adjustable (just don't strip them out). Having said that, I enjoy and appreciate your content! ETA: just realized this is from a year ago and I somehow missed it, I'm slow apparently.
These "new style clamps" often cause leaks in my experience. Can't explain why it happens, but I can usually fix it by replacing them with the "old style clamp" and tightening it like crazy :D
Same. The thing I find with worm gear clamps (old style) is people don't tighten them when the engine is cold and don't tighten them enough. If you use a socket and tighten the shit out of them they're easier to install and never leak in my experience.
@@PJBonoVox I find screw clamps much easier to install and remove so yea. Also never had one leak when properly installed, and you can't properly install them with a screw driver. Use a socket.
Until you tighten like crazy on a plastic fitting.. it will break given enough time. That's the point of the springs, they flex with the expansion of the material.
Having spent the last nearly forty years in the motor trade I can assure you that most of what's stated in this video is nonsense or completely wrong,spring clamps are used by manufacturers because they are cheap and allow for quicker assembly.
@@ohioplayer-bl9em because they like anyone else that has fixed more than one car also know that they are rubbish,fine fitted to a new hose but once the rubber compresses over time then refitting them becomes a matter of exact placement for a fifty fifty chance of proper re-clamping,so rather than take a very solid risk of leakage or opting for sometimes breathtakingly expensive mihose replacement they opt for a better solution.,A bit of corrosion or a non uniform shape of the union or pipe the hose is being clamped to will result in a leak with sprung or even one shot clamps,a worm drive clamp will generally overcome a fair degree of irregularity in the fitting and allow you to apply more clamping force.
Another significant benefit of spring clamps is that they remove most of the user error aspect of installation. As long as the spring clamp is past the end of the hose fitting, it's good to go. But with worm drive clamps, there's the user error aspect of people undertightening or more often overtightening them and ending up with leaks, damage to the hose, and/or damage to the fitting.
Lord have mercy. I think the first time my father showed me how to use a screw-on hose clamp, I was 10 or 11. He told me then I'd have to be a complete idiot to screw this up. Since that age I've used maybe hundreds of those clamps without a single issue. Normally, after about ten years or more of the clamps getting wet every day, the clamp rusts or corrodes and needs to be replaced - but even then, it still holds pressure fine after many thousands of temperature changes. I'm calling complete bullshit on this. "User error"? You could say the same thing about tightening ANY screw or bolt in general. And if you're that over-cautioned about the simplest hand tools in the world being used properly, you're probably a nervous wreck every time you get in a car, or plane, or train, or go kart, or lawn mower, tractor, ferry, walking across a bridge, sitting in a chair, climbing a ladder, and even laying in bed, which all of these use screws and bolts capable of dreaded "user error".... 👏😵💫
@@bat__bat He's talking about removing end user error and yes you can screw up worm gear hose clamps. It's why you see people strip the wood out of their cabinetry. Anything with lighter torque that normal people interact with. I've thrown away so many worm gear clamps that were overtightened ruining the perforations. Pre-tensioned clamps do remove this variable of the end user provided it's not cocked at some angle. For you to claim the end user isn't a liability is just ignorant. As far as bolts and nuts in a car you can say the same thing. The lower the torque values the more likely you'll see people twisting the heads off bolts or pulling out threads and if you add aluminum it gets worse. Think of the stories of spark plug jobs in aluminum heads or even an oil drain plug. Normal people are wild when you put a tool in their hand
@@jinxtacy idk... tightening a screw clamp using a screwdriver or nut driver is about equal in difficulty to using pliers to replace a pre-tensioned spring clamp. And on Volkswagen, you need special pliers. So, yeah. Not making any logical sense there
@@bat__bat It's not about difficulty, it's about removing the ability of the person doing the work to screw it up. Would you trust Johnny middle class from suburbia to torque anything you own by feel? If there was similar limitation for oil filters and drain plugs the world would be a better place and that's with professionals doing the job.
@@jinxtacy wrong. Plenty of engineering studies show that spring clamps hold better under the typical 0-230 degree Fahrenheit conditions of automotive coolant lines expansion and contraction
They're not even used for the false narrative he's attempting to portray. They are used because they are cheap and easy to install on an assembly line.
Screw type is definitely better hoss, no matter what this guy says. I prefer the spring type on large hose's like the lower radiator to water pump or thermostat housing due to their being easier to remove, but on anything small like fuel lines especially anything with high pressure use screw types. Just make sure when you tighten them down that you can get to clamp to remove it or you'll be in a world of hurt.
I had on '04 RAM 1500 with those "Smart" clamps on the Power Steering lines. On at least 2 occasions when the temp dropped extremely low (-30 F) ALL of my Power Steering fluid drained out onto the pavement! I read about the issue and found that this is/was pretty common for my vehicle. The recommended solution was to replace those "Smart" clamps with the "worm drive" clamps on the Power Steering lines. After replacing them as recommended (I put 2 clamps on each connection), I never had a problem with the fluid leaking out again. I seem to recall that the issue was related to the metal fitting and the rubber hose expanding and contracting at different rates.
I’ve honestly just never had these problems, it’s good also to make sure the old clamp is the right size as well because some may look similar but be just a hair to big, the new clamps are annoying to install in tight spaces if all you have are pliers but I’ve never had a problem with those either I think it’s mainly just about getting the right size
I know so many armchair mechanics who hate on spring style clamps because they don't know how to install or remove them easily. I've always preferred them because of their ability to maintain consistent clamping force over time and temperature changes.
In 40 years, I’ve never had one of those clamps leak. Had one come completely loose once on a lower radiator hose, but other than that HUGE leak (emptied the radiator) I have not seen that leakage issue like yours.
Agreed, they use them all the time in more inexpensive cars, early 2000's Saturn's come to mind. I see them on cars all the time, just not EVERY car. I bet he has a cracked outlet on the radiator and every time he tightens it, the stupid thing just keeps cracking more and leaking further.
Spring clamps have been around for years and years. they are not the "new style clamps". In my experience they are just as likely to leak as any other style clamp . And when they do all you can do is replace them. I will continue to use the better worm gear clamps.
This is a great video and speaks the truth which really hurts people's feelings haha. I had the exact same issue in three spots with my truck and fixed it the exact same way a few years ago. Someone worked on the cooling system and used those garbage worm clamps and they leak all over the place when it's cold and work themselves loose over time even if you buy the ones that claim to not loosen. Worm clamps are crap but people get so upset when you tell them that because they hate fighting with spring clamps. It is true that you have to set spring clamps back in the same spot on older hoses but it's not a big deal. Other people mention that spring clamps rust and break, yes they do if you buy cheap ones. There's a cheap version of everything especially when you buy from Amazon. When I fixed my truck I went to the salvage yard and got OEM clamps. Still no leaks 5 years later. If you live in the salt belt no one can help you there, everything rusts away on a car that spends half the year covered in salt, that's just life. Also worth noting is people buy the wrong size clamp (it's too loose but easy to install) and then it leaks but hey it's the spring clamps fault...... or maybe not..... Also smaller worm clamps, clamp in a "D" shape and are guaranteed to leak. At worst small spring clamps, clamp in an egg shape. Automobile manufacturers have to provide warranties to compete these days and they know worm clamps are nothing but trouble so they don't use them to hold back fluids. If look they only use them for air intake systems and maybe on the gas tank filler neck.
The spring clamp is a great design. After 40 years of using them on imports I found that they rarely leak. The most important thing though is selecting the proper size. If you select too large of a clamp you won't have the proper tension and it will leak.
This is the problem with spring clamps. If you replace a hose and it's a different OD then the original clamp won't work and finding the correct clamp is difficult. Maybe somewhere is an assortment box of spring clamps.
@Ding Bop That is true. But which clamp is the right one for which hose? I just can't imagine myself making the time to go to a junk yard, removing hose clamps, measuring the hose, noting which clamp fits which hose, organizing them into their proper sizes in an organizer then making the space to store those organizers. I can see how spring clamps are superior when it comes to proper clamping pressure, but when it comes to usability, they suck.
Spring clamps are typically used for dryer exhaust hoses as well. I find them very frustrating as they wear out over time and are a huge pain to get on.
These bands are made from a special 54SiCrV6 steel alloy or 51CrV4 so that the clamp shrinks or expands evenly around the circumference depending on the temperature. This always ensures a proper fit and no leakage below 3.0bar.
I keep seeing these sorts of videos for some reason. Recently I had to use a screw clamp for my plastic radiator hose because it's in a location that makes pliers impossible. That was maybe 8 months ago and haven't had any problems. I've never had a problem with screw clamps. I've actually had problems with old spring clamps not getting tight anymore.
These 'spring' clamps can be an absolute nightmare to deal with. In my garage we regularly replace them with jubilee clips. Never had one come back because it leaked.
You're right. I experienced it exactly. Better use constant hose clamp for radiator, auto adjusting to different heat levels. Unfortunately, not easy to find it in Indonesia.
I rip all of those " smart" clamps off and use stainless worm gear clamps .The only reason those " smart clamps are used is for ease and speed of assembly . This tool has probably never turned a wrench.
Hm.. I basically had to replace the entire cooling system on my Chrysler 200 and I replaced some of them with worm clamps just because in hard areas I can just use my electric ratchet with 88 mm to tighten it. Instead of trying to get the old-fashioned one back on perfectly with pliers. But sometimes I still leak coolant. Good video.
The mechanic that replaced my radiator used regular screw clamps and it's working fine going on 5 years on my Mazda 6 ... All the stock ones were replaced those clamps are there stock because it's cheap and fast to install On assembly line when they make the car That's absolutely the only difference.. Clamp style worm type are far superior in every install I've done
I've replaced so many of those sheet metal clamps with screw clamps because they stopped holding properly after being removed one time. On the other hand, I have never had a problem with good quality screw clamps done tight enough.
You got to be kidding me. Mechanic for 40 yrs. I threw every one of these clamps away and cursed the guy who invented them. They lose tension and leak, are a pain to remove. Replaced them with the screw type and never had a problem. What the ad said is just the reverse.
I worked for a clamp maker for almost twenty years. The screw type clamps we made could not be beat. We could not make enough millions of them. (Ideal Corp.!)
Listen to what he says at the beginning. Cold starts you notice leaks. I leave my truck sit for weeks sometimes a few months while trucking. I built my Chevy over a 5 year period and when I left the truck for a while all the clamps started to leak. After driving no leaks. I switched over to a quality hose clamp and now no leaks. You got to tighten them down then come back and tighten after a few heat cycles and full pressure has been run. I don’t like leaks
Those red clamps are the absolute devil. I replace all of mine anytime I take them off. I've been using worm clamps on my race cars and hi-po street cars for 27 years and I've never had them fail on me. The issue is not the clamps themselves or the design, it's almost always user error.
Another problem with worm-drive hose clamps is they do not provide uniform tension around the hose. The area under the screw exerts a lot more force than the rest of the clamp. This can be a problem, especially with the proliferation of plastic radiators and other engine components.
Very important point, many people don't realize this. They have their places for lots of low pressure, less exacting uses but vehicles and such do not do well with them.
@@SilverCymbal I think that it is not true. Hi pressure does not make worm clamps fail. Heat is the reason for failure, but only because over tightening. The hose itself has enough elasticity to allow for the hose area next to the clamp to expand without failing. Also, the poly-nylon, or any plastic, that the radiator is made of, will also withstand the heat created. Moreover, metal also expands and contracts. It really is a matter of wear and tear, or manufacture defects on one of the components. This is just my humble opinion.
They really are great once you learn to use them. I kept melting them and got frustrated, until I realized it was my own fault. When using a lighter you have to keep it moving, if you focus the heat on one area (even from a distance) the shrink material will melt away.
Been using worm drive clamps for over 40 years on many apps to include hit rodding and have never had a problem. With the exception of once I bought very cheap Chinese made clamps and the sucked. I also use hose tack on all my cooling lines, kinda like a semi permanent contact cement
Spring clamps have their place for rubber hoses, as they can adjust its grip against expansion and contraction with temperature changes. A dealer installed a worm gear clamp on my new rubber lower radiator hose and in my experience such clamps are best for hard material hoses like silicone.
Just for fun what would be the "correct" position on a newly installed hose to keep it from leaking? Or if clamp was leaking from the factory with only 20-30k miles?
I've been around race cars for 30 years,with engines easily upwards of 30 to 40 thousand dollars. I have never seen not would I ever use those spring clamps.
@@Mole460 nobody said drag racing. I've been involved with go kart teams,and every class of stock cars ,from 4 cylinders all the way up to 1000 hp dirt late models. Standard screw type hose clamps are the norm
And even more “Wow!” about hose clamps: “Within the United States, SAE International maintains Specification J1508 for thirty-two different hose clamp designs, including screw, spring, and t-bolt styles. It also maintains Specification J1610 for the testing the sealing of hoses. The US Army TACOM maintains Commercial Item Description (CID) A-A-52506 that provides for the standardized acquisition of hose clamps by the Department of Defense; the CID references the SAE specifications. The CID superseded Federal Specification WW-C-440 for hose clamps in 1994.” SOURCE: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_clamp
Question: Example you correctly remove a Lower Radiator Hose to Drain Coolant-Antifreeze when replacing a Thermastat. Drain Coolant-Antifreeze. Reinstall Lower Radiator Hose & Hose Pressure Clamp securely into exact positions. Refill Radiator with correct amount of Coolant-Antifreeze. You notice that you have a Lower Hose Radiator Leak and New Correct Size OEM Spring Clamps are not readily available. This why so many OEM Spring Hose clamps are replaced with easily available Automotive Store-Hardware Store Screw Clamps. When Screw Clamps are installed correctly or 2 Screw Clamps are used in tandem the Leak Stops & Holds. Old work habits that work are sometimes hard to change.
I use these everywhere on the cooling system of my truck, now all the clamps are easy to access. One popped off cuz I put it on not far enough on the radiator. I always just snug them up every time I do an oil change and they do great. Not too tight, just snug
Another home run video Mr Silver! Maybe not as exciting as the others, but definitely commonsense information. I had no idea that tool you showed even existed! Will be putting that on my shopping list (any excuse to go to the hardware store 😃) Thank you!
What you say makes sense. Both clamps do what they a designed to do, the main reason manufacturers us these simple clamps is low cost and ease of application.
As a 20+ year tech I do agree with this video. We live in an area that can change 20+ degrees from day to day. Never had a problem with squeeze clamps but periodic issues with the other. If I don't have squeeze clamp I have to tighten it, drive vehicle, let it cool down, retighten. Depending on the time of year you could have a large temp drop and still have it leak. Squeeze clamps are more of a p-i-t-a if you ask me, but at least I know I will not have a comeback. Customers don't understand nor care about educating them on how certain clamps might leak if it gets to cold.
They are tough in tight spots, hopefully you watched the rest of the video with the tool, it works really well even in places no other type could be accesed
I'm happy to be the eight hundred sixty-eighth "thumbs down" on this uninformative video. I think the 868 thumbs down figure represents the number of actual mechanics who've watched this video.
Thank you that makes sense i use to use the screw clamps as an replacement next time i am gonna use the original. Also i use locking pliers to remove those clamps it works perfecly
Here on the east coast in Canada those clamps rust and crack then hose leakes. Screw style has always lasted for me being use stainless ones
Yup. Salt belt goodness. But use good hose clamps that can be properly torqed ... Not those weak China ones.
Yeppers in areas were you have salt water or salt is used in the winter to melt snow or ice. You need to use stainless steel.
But aluminum
Down here in the northeast I do generator service.
It's always lovely to have a block heater fail and cause all kinds of cold water leaks at hose joints due to screw clamps.
And after hose replacement you've gotta retorque em a few times after some heat cycles.
I do like the spring clamps for the constant tension.
But occasionally I've had to replace those with screw style clamps as they still show signs of sweating.
@@JoeZasada
Somebody gave me a box of those from harbor freight,
After 3-4 of em stripped out upon tightening , I threw em in the scrap pile and I'll get .39c for em when I have enough for the scrap run.
Happy to correct you on this one. I’m a mechanic with over 20 years experience. Those hose clamps are used primarily for one reason and one reason only, speed when fitting in an assembly line.
Not only are they a nightmare to remove in tricky places it gets even harder when old hoses swell and yes those clamps do lose their tension over time. Unless you line them up with the indentation they leave in the hose when re fitting guess what? They leak!
The majority of the time if a hose has leaked or is leaking after fitting a clamp it’s due to the older hose being hard and is because of the hose not being soft enough to seal around fitting and then it is relying 100 percent on just the tension of the clamp.
Fact is I have NEVER had a correctly tensioned clamp on a good condition hose leak. I will always replace the this style of clamp whenever I have to remove them.
Why do worm gear clamps on new heavy equipment leak?
I was a mechanic for the post office and twice a year we would get multiple calls for leaking antifreeze. Those calls coincided with the change of the season. The issue was loose hose clamps. I can't say that spring clamps would definitively eliminate the issue but logically it would stand to reason that they would be less likely to leak. As to the difficulty of removing spring clamps from inaccessible locations the use of the right tool for the right job cannot be understated.
I just did a timing belt job on a 2014 VW Golf. These jackass clamps are on everything and I was forced to buy that tool in the video. After losing at least 45 minutes trying to get those special clamps off with every type of pliers I own, the requirement of that special tool is not in any way a positive thing. If you or a friend is on the side of the road, which clamp would you prefer to have? The one that comes off with the screwdriver everyone carries? Yeah me too. Needless to say, after changing my friend's timing belt, I replaced as many of those jackass clamps as I could with new screw-on clamps that sane people use.
Amen sir.
the "speed of assembly" claim is a MYTH. There are multiple studies and engineering papers that show spring clamps on coolant hose systems perform much better. A worm clamp is over 3x times more likely to develop a leak with a the >200 degree temp swing that occurs on your heater core and radiator connections.
A few things to mention about this video, you will need to have some fairly significant temperature deltas and rates of change for this adjustability to make any discernable difference. Their use by OEM's has more to do with their speed of install than their temperature compensating or maintainability traits. These clamps do work harden over time and will lose their effectiveness while looking perfectly fine. They are also reliant on the hoses themselves being in good condition as an old hard hose that has taken a set will often not clamp properly when reinstalled with these types of clamps.
One benefit of screw clamps that stood out from the video is that you can replace them without having to break the seal on whatever hose you're working with, simply unscrew them all the way and slip them over the hose.
Also, some of the "cons" of screw clamps are overstated. If a moron overtightens a clamp to the point of breaking a part they have accomplished something unusual and special. If this has happened to you it might be a fluke, if it has happened to you repeatedly then consider the possibility that you may be a moron.
I usually over-tighten them until the worm gear starts skipping teeth and/or deforming the notches; then I have to start all over only to repeat the mistake. It is my belief that this too qualifies as moronic behavior.
It uuy it u
Thanks Will! You gave very good information here. Good read too!
I completely disagree with Will. This video is spot on about the reason for using the spring type hose clamp. Work hardening does not affect spring steel that doesn't exceed yield strength. I used to believe that the spring type was used by manufacturers because of cost or installation, but that's not true. They're just better for applications involving temperature swings. From my experience, spring type clamps are the only practical option. If screw type clamps were better, you'd at least see them on high end cars, but you don't. My biggest complaint is that they're so hard to find at auto parts stores. I guess it's easier to stock just a few screw type sizes.
@@williamyoung3253 We can disagree about a few things but there are a couple of reasons why you find screw clamps in auto parts stores. One is psycological the other is practical.
The psychological aspect has to do with the obviousntess of function from tigtehning hte screw. It allows the less experienced to be confidnet the clamp is tight. It's also easier for the uniitated to pick a screw type clamp that will fit rather than having to pick the correct size spring clamp.
The practial reason is that they work with hoses that have taken a set that often leak when reused with spring clamps.
Not recommended for Diesel engines on boats, per ABYC H-33.10.e.4; “clamps depending solely on the spring tension of the metal shall not be used”
Why did VW put these @#$@&@! things on my little diesel from the factory.
It's about time someone mentioned this. I've known this for a while and seen guys use the worm drive style and tell them to use the automotive ones you talk about. They don't listen and just keep complaining about their car leaking or radiator fitting breaking. Course I can't judge too much, I was clueless at first too. I'm really glad you're here to tell everyone.
Sadly I’ve seen plenty of those spring clamps leak if they are old and you move them and then don’t put them back in the exact same position.
i totally agree i am a auto technician and work on engines 5 days a week and if you dont put them back the same they will leak but they dam good clamps
Yup, I learned this the hard way.
Make a mark with a paint marking pen. Realign the marks when assembling.
@@LatinDanceVideos Its not necessary, I can see the embossed marks on the hose that the clamp leaves. I just didn't know if the clamp needed to be realigned the way it was before. I thought maybe clamping it in a different position would still work, but I was wrong. I didn't realign it and the hose leaked.
Its because old hose often hardens up.
I must be the minority. Ive always used those worm gear clamps and have never had issues.
And I'm sure every other person that has used them has never had a problem either. He just has something wrong with his truck specifically.
Try putting a pressure tester on it and I can almost guarantee at least one will leak a little. The spring style rarely leak
Ten 4 worm clamps are better
@@robertgary3561 You don’t have the right sized clamp or it’s not tightened enough if they leak. There’s nothing with them.
@@waterloo123100 it’s always after a few years. Car as a slow leak. I hook the pressure tester to it and just go around and tighten clamps and it’s good.
Had a hose leaking on my coolant surge tank that wouldn't seal with a spring clamp. The solution was a worm clamp. My experience has been opposite of this video. I have never had success reusing spring clamps but I reuse worm clamps successfully all the time.
Yea fuck spring clams them bitches never come off
Yeap had the same problem. Couldn't take it off. Had to use a dremel to cut the dam clamp. I am still piss off. Lol
Maybe like torque to yield screws, only use them once
One little comment would be for hoses below 5/8", I would consider using mini clamps.
@@vizion4273 not with a pair of cheap plyers.
WOW! I have a 1986 B250 Dodge van and could not find a coolant leak. When it was hot NO LEAK, but once it sat over night I would see a small amount of coolant on the ground, very frustrating.😫 Thank you, so much for your video. 👍
This is invaluable information. When I was younger I let a guy work on my coolant leak. He claimed that the conventional clamps were trash and the screw-in clamps were superior. Sure enough I’ve had problems and fixed it myself, but with screw-in clamps. I’m immediately going back to the store, return these trash clamps and buying pressure retention clips. Thank you so much for your informative video.
Be careful with these clamps they can fly across the room at 30mph if you don’t handle it right lol
Yup and a pinched palm with the damm end of the pliers
@@Julio-jm8ld oh gosh you just reminded me of a terrible memory man I pinched my hand so hard with some needle nose pliers trying to get one of these off I had to get stitches
Too many volcano bongs?
Use vice grips
Did ya see the spider
I've used the old style screw hose clips for over 50 years on my cars, bikes and boats and have never had one fail or lead, and I've never seen one turn bright "RED" as you mentioned.
I like marine grade stainless steel worm gear clamps for better durability.
If you believe he literally meant it would be glowing red hot, you may be an idiot.
Ya I have more trouble with those "new style" clamps. Those old style clamps normally out last the hose they are sealing. Also, those new style clamps are actually more difficult in tight places contrary to what the video says, When they turn the wrong way over time........
I was gonna comment the same lol I’ve never seen a quality (not cheap chinese) screw clamp fail
@@jauh25 The only cheap one I've seen fail was my fault. Over tightened it, threads ripped.
I'm still going to use worm gear clamps...🙃
Yeah everyone who's struggled to get those damn things off figures out to use the screw type eventually.
@@johnnyrebel9986 it’s not hard if your good at it
@@jonthelamb4549 So you're tellin me you've never had one that you couldn't depress enough to get it loose? Or some that don't hardly even have enough surface metal to put a pair of pliers on, I like the spring style clamps for large hose's like for radiator/water pump/thermostat housings because of ease of removal. But when it comes to small hoses like fuel lines ect and high pressure lines screw clamps are the way to go.
@@johnnyrebel9986 I haven’t used them much lol when I do it’s never an issue for me. Like you said the bigger ones are better then the smaller ones kinda depends where it is and what it’s on I guess
@@johnnyrebel9986 I strongly disagree. On small hoses you want to use the single use ones, you crimp on. Worm drive clamps can't (because of the worm drive mechanism) form a small circle to effectively tighten a small diameter hose. Also he specifically said that for use with high temperature fluctuations you need to use the spring type clamp.
I was a professional mechanic for over ten years, I've never had an issue with the worm style clamp
Literally everything he's saying has been the exact opposite in my 20 years experience...
Yeah he obviously has 0 experience with automobile repair. I work on cars all day everyday and only use the worm gear ones because the pretension ones never work right after removing them.
I've seen so many subaru spring style clamps fail.
@@TVCColin The spring style are one-time use. You're not meant to reuse them.
Yea, the entire video I'm thinking to myself "the fuck is this guy on about". Good quality worm clamps work fine. Makes you wonder what other videos he has where he just spews BS
Your right not to mention they lose that tension with time unlike the work style clamps which I say I had never had a problem.
I normally agree with you but this time I don't. I'm a diesel mechanic so I work with these daily. They can be some of the hardest ones to get off whenever you do not have clear access. And even then they often jump off the pliers. I have seen plenty of these not be able to hold pressure. We never replace them with the same style we always put worm styles in place. I work at a Freightliner dealership so that tells you something. I'm happy you like them but you're the first person I have ever heard that did.
Yes, every mechanic replaces them with standard clamps so the customer keeps coming back.
@@gplusgplus2286 I see worm clamps on Case IH equipment. After ten years it seems like half of em leak.
There’s a set of pliers you can get with cups on the end that make these much easier, but yeah I’ve busted my finger up more than once trying to get squarenoses onto them
Use spring clamp pliers. Game changer. I've worked on vw's tdi's for years and at first i hated spring clamps, but after seeing numerous failures where previous techs had replaced spring with "worm" clamps i became a firm believer in spring clamps. Not only do they work better and never leak, but disassembly and reassembly is much, much quicker than fiddling with worm clamps. I've worn out four sets of cable spring clamp pliers over the years. That's how much i deal with them. Hands down, a superior design.
Don't use pliers unless you have to. Use the spring (constant-tension) clamp tool. It's better and it doesn't ruin the constant tension springs (by bending the prongs). Don't use the tool they show in the video.
You can get worm type clamps in constant torque as well. They have a spring on them.
That seems like the best of both worlds. I replaced all my constant tension ones with worm screw types when I re-did all the vacuum lines just because the regular constant tension ones are a pain to deal with.
Have used them on my job on Diesel engines . Retired from N.Y.C.T.A. Dept of Buses
Yes sir, used quite öften on the tubing for the charge air coolee
Constant tension clamp tool
I remember the day when most youtube videos were about 3 minutes. I miss the goid ole days. Thank You for giving the answer in 2!!
I found Silver Cymbal's advice to be spot on, and I'm 67, with lots of automotive experience.
I been working on cars and trucks since 1973, and never had a problem with the screw type hose clamps.
Ironically, I was so frustrated with constant tension clamps that I switched them all out for the old fashioned hose clamps 🤦🏻
I always do the same thing too.
Same I've never had a problem with the old style
Funny cause I switch out one of these new style for the old style because they allowed coolant to leak. The coolant hasn't leaked since.
There has to be a way to size these things. They can't be one size fits all like the worm clamp. Maybe you take the od of the pipe and the od of the hose and find a clamp that has an id somewhere in the middle. 😳
@@paulsmith9341 careful because you really can OD off a pipe.
PS: I really did like the information you provided. I work with them all the time and have seen leaks with those clamps in use, but I’m also questioning the age of the hose at that point. Usually when there is a leak, there is a bunch of crystallize coolant creating a breach in the sealing surface. Which It’s not necessarily the fault of the clamp.
Tech tip: put the Constant Tension clamp back in the same Position, otherwise it WILL leak
I use Indian head gasket shellac on hoses. They wouldn't leak even if I used a zip tie as a clamp. Lol
@@BukitMan I use that stuff too as a cheap insurance
Which rarely you can
@@cowboy41231 Wouldn't ya know they just now are changing the name of it. This saddens me. And should sadden native Americans IMO. But every time I reached for that bottle I felt proud of the name. There was never any disrespect. I drive a chevy Cheyenne for crying out loud and I'm proud of that name too. Is it going to be better when they are no long represented on any products? People act as if we put them on toilet paper brands or something.
@@BukitMan yep sad world we live in, cancel culture bullshit.
I never thought about this before but plastic radiator hose spouts may contract at a greater rate than steel or aluminum therefore causing this condition mentioned. Also silicon or soft hoses require the clamps with the liner in them that are much better for small hoses. Saying that I agree with the comments that gear clamps have never failed me. Thanks for the video. I makes us think.
Holy B.S. this is a prime example of a shool trained technician.
Both clamp styles have their pros and cons - many comments here already cover those. If you want a constant tension screw type clamp, look at the Breeze Constant Torque clamps. Not cheap, but you get the best of both worlds.
10/10 advice. I've never had a spring clamp leak where the hose wasn't compromised somehow. I've had numerous instances of worm drive clamps leading to leaks. That said, all of those leaks happened on smaller diameter connections where the drive box on the worm drive clamp creates a flat spot of sorts where an equally small spring clamp wouldn't. On larger diameter hoses, it's less of an issue (again in my experience).
I always thought cars had them because of ease of assembly. This was very insightful.
Yes, speed and ease of assembly are a main automotive factor.
You will not see them in aircraft use.
They go in easy with new stuff but once those hoses get a little swollen they can become a bear especially heater core lines at the firewall that are difficult to reach. Those flex clamps are handy but I’ve encountered times that even fully compressed it didn’t open the clamp far enough and had to get creative with locking needle nose pliers. Constant tension worms are great but they are way more expensive.
Ease of assembly but also cost. Auto makers don't use them because they work better. They use them because they are cheaper.
@@pjm329 Auto manufacturers use them because a robot can install them instead of a human. The robot presents so many less problems during it's time of use. I hate them. Why, because robots don't go out and spend money which creates jobs. See...
@@davidkeeton6716 End result... Much cheaper.
I've read many of the comments below and agree with most, of the ones I read. The tension springs are not new and works just great when everything under the hood is new. Frequent high temp through the hose, over clamping and age of the hose can cause distortion in the hose and if made of plastic or thin meta, the connection too. Just because alittle works well, it does not necessarily follows, a lot works better!
I’m a truck driver self thought heavy truck mech and drive from Florida to northern Canada...and I can’t agree with this man more.
There is a reason those clamps are used and he is exactly right.
I have had “cold water” leaks and took me a while to figure it out. It was the clamps.
I think you got it backwards hoss, the screw type are way better and they stay tight. On the other hand those spring clamps weaken over time and can leak, especially if removed and replaced a number of times.
You got that right Bubba...
And, they're a PITA to get off vs screw type.
I’ve never seen one weaken and you might want to buy the right tool to do the job. All my vehicles go north of 400,000 km and I’ve never had a spring clamp fail. That doesn’t even cross my mind that ever be an issue with it.
@@DCSPORTSTER the key word is easy.. the reason they use them is because they are easy not better. Now.. some old timers may be more comfortable with them and that's fine on older vehicles. New vehicles with plastic fittings will either crack or fall off given enough time.
If it came from the factory with screws go ahead and use them. If it came with springs it's best to use the springs. Get new ones if you overstress the old ones taking them off with the wrong tool. Oh.. and buy the correct tool as well.
Interesting as those clamps have been factory installed for decades. Always considered them cheap alternative and replaced them with screw clamps whenever servicing my vehicles. Been working on my own cars for 50+ years and was apparently clueless. Thank you for the tip
I used to think exactly the same. They are deceptively amazing
One thing I will tell you... Sometimes it is dang near impossible to get those clamps off in tight spaces. If you have that problem, once you get them off, don't try to reuse them. Most of them are not designed for reuse. Get new ones. The benefit is that they will be locked open and will easily slide into position on the hose. Then you just squeeze then open and let go. They lock into place. Great info always on this channel! Thanks
I have been a mechanic for almost 40 years. I only use these on vacuum lines and small engines
Personally, I've never had a problem with the old style screw clamps.
Omg thanks!!! I was wondering why I had a leak after mechanic did oil change and no other issues. 😂 your video randomly answered my question in my feed. 👍 thumbs up😊
Hose clamps (OG) are just fine for nearly everything. Multiple cars, pool hoses, you can bet I've used them on everything. They work and are infinitely adjustable (just don't strip them out). Having said that, I enjoy and appreciate your content! ETA: just realized this is from a year ago and I somehow missed it, I'm slow apparently.
I absolutely 100% Agree. I dont like those screw type clamps. Factory style clamps are the Best.
These "new style clamps" often cause leaks in my experience. Can't explain why it happens, but I can usually fix it by replacing them with the "old style clamp" and tightening it like crazy :D
They're a solution looking for a problem. Keep using correctly sized screw clamps, they're fine.
Same. The thing I find with worm gear clamps (old style) is people don't tighten them when the engine is cold and don't tighten them enough. If you use a socket and tighten the shit out of them they're easier to install and never leak in my experience.
@@JoshuasRecordings Other benefit is you don't have to remove the hose to install or remove a screw clamp.
@@PJBonoVox I find screw clamps much easier to install and remove so yea. Also never had one leak when properly installed, and you can't properly install them with a screw driver. Use a socket.
Until you tighten like crazy on a plastic fitting.. it will break given enough time. That's the point of the springs, they flex with the expansion of the material.
Having spent the last nearly forty years in the motor trade I can assure you that most of what's stated in this video is nonsense or completely wrong,spring clamps are used by manufacturers because they are cheap and allow for quicker assembly.
Those one time use clamps are horrible 💀💀
If they are cheaper why don't the dealerships use them? They love money..
@@ohioplayer-bl9em because they like anyone else that has fixed more than one car also know that they are rubbish,fine fitted to a new hose but once the rubber compresses over time then refitting them becomes a matter of exact placement for a fifty fifty chance of proper re-clamping,so rather than take a very solid risk of leakage or opting for sometimes breathtakingly expensive mihose replacement they opt for a better solution.,A bit of corrosion or a non uniform shape of the union or pipe the hose is being clamped to will result in a leak with sprung or even one shot clamps,a worm drive clamp will generally overcome a fair degree of irregularity in the fitting and allow you to apply more clamping force.
Thank you. I had same problem and checked it out. My 2019 Dodge Journey came with the wrong clamp. Switched to one you suggested, and problem fixed.
I agree with you bro.. I found same problems with many of my customers vehicles ..100 % you are right
Another significant benefit of spring clamps is that they remove most of the user error aspect of installation. As long as the spring clamp is past the end of the hose fitting, it's good to go. But with worm drive clamps, there's the user error aspect of people undertightening or more often overtightening them and ending up with leaks, damage to the hose, and/or damage to the fitting.
Lord have mercy. I think the first time my father showed me how to use a screw-on hose clamp, I was 10 or 11. He told me then I'd have to be a complete idiot to screw this up. Since that age I've used maybe hundreds of those clamps without a single issue. Normally, after about ten years or more of the clamps getting wet every day, the clamp rusts or corrodes and needs to be replaced - but even then, it still holds pressure fine after many thousands of temperature changes. I'm calling complete bullshit on this. "User error"? You could say the same thing about tightening ANY screw or bolt in general. And if you're that over-cautioned about the simplest hand tools in the world being used properly, you're probably a nervous wreck every time you get in a car, or plane, or train, or go kart, or lawn mower, tractor, ferry, walking across a bridge, sitting in a chair, climbing a ladder, and even laying in bed, which all of these use screws and bolts capable of dreaded "user error".... 👏😵💫
@@bat__bat He's talking about removing end user error and yes you can screw up worm gear hose clamps. It's why you see people strip the wood out of their cabinetry. Anything with lighter torque that normal people interact with. I've thrown away so many worm gear clamps that were overtightened ruining the perforations. Pre-tensioned clamps do remove this variable of the end user provided it's not cocked at some angle. For you to claim the end user isn't a liability is just ignorant. As far as bolts and nuts in a car you can say the same thing. The lower the torque values the more likely you'll see people twisting the heads off bolts or pulling out threads and if you add aluminum it gets worse. Think of the stories of spark plug jobs in aluminum heads or even an oil drain plug. Normal people are wild when you put a tool in their hand
@@jinxtacy idk... tightening a screw clamp using a screwdriver or nut driver is about equal in difficulty to using pliers to replace a pre-tensioned spring clamp. And on Volkswagen, you need special pliers. So, yeah. Not making any logical sense there
@@bat__bat It's not about difficulty, it's about removing the ability of the person doing the work to screw it up. Would you trust Johnny middle class from suburbia to torque anything you own by feel? If there was similar limitation for oil filters and drain plugs the world would be a better place and that's with professionals doing the job.
@@jinxtacy wrong. Plenty of engineering studies show that spring clamps hold better under the typical 0-230 degree Fahrenheit conditions of automotive coolant lines expansion and contraction
Not sure how "new" spring clamps can be when they've been in use in cars/motorcycles/vehicles for over 4 decades.
I was just thinking that, I know I've seen them back in the 70's and 80's
They're not even used for the false narrative he's attempting to portray. They are used because they are cheap and easy to install on an assembly line.
@@JosephArata wrong! Not cheaper!
🤣
@@JosephArata They're used because they work better for longer
Wow, I never knew this. I always thought the screw drive was better. Makes sense what you said, keep up the videos.
Screw is better, just look at race cars, the spring is just more dummy proof.
Screw type is definitely better hoss, no matter what this guy says. I prefer the spring type on large hose's like the lower radiator to water pump or thermostat housing due to their being easier to remove, but on anything small like fuel lines especially anything with high pressure use screw types. Just make sure when you tighten them down that you can get to clamp to remove it or you'll be in a world of hurt.
screw types are defective by design
I had on '04 RAM 1500 with those "Smart" clamps on the Power Steering lines. On at least 2 occasions when the temp dropped extremely low (-30 F) ALL of my Power Steering fluid drained out onto the pavement! I read about the issue and found that this is/was pretty common for my vehicle. The recommended solution was to replace those "Smart" clamps with the "worm drive" clamps on the Power Steering lines. After replacing them as recommended (I put 2 clamps on each connection), I never had a problem with the fluid leaking out again. I seem to recall that the issue was related to the metal fitting and the rubber hose expanding and contracting at different rates.
I’ve honestly just never had these problems, it’s good also to make sure the old clamp is the right size as well because some may look similar but be just a hair to big, the new clamps are annoying to install in tight spaces if all you have are pliers but I’ve never had a problem with those either I think it’s mainly just about getting the right size
I know so many armchair mechanics who hate on spring style clamps because they don't know how to install or remove them easily. I've always preferred them because of their ability to maintain consistent clamping force over time and temperature changes.
In 40 years, I’ve never had one of those clamps leak. Had one come completely loose once on a lower radiator hose, but other than that HUGE leak (emptied the radiator) I have not seen that leakage issue like yours.
Agreed, they use them all the time in more inexpensive cars, early 2000's Saturn's come to mind. I see them on cars all the time, just not EVERY car. I bet he has a cracked outlet on the radiator and every time he tightens it, the stupid thing just keeps cracking more and leaking further.
Hah so true, it's what I use when I want to make sure the a hose doesn't leak or come off.
Spring clamps have been around for years and years. they are not the "new style clamps". In my experience they are just as likely to leak as any other style clamp . And when they do all you can do is replace them. I will continue to use the better worm gear clamps.
This information is correct. Also, constant-tension clamps are easy to work with when using a dedicated hose-clamp plier.
This is a great video and speaks the truth which really hurts people's feelings haha. I had the exact same issue in three spots with my truck and fixed it the exact same way a few years ago. Someone worked on the cooling system and used those garbage worm clamps and they leak all over the place when it's cold and work themselves loose over time even if you buy the ones that claim to not loosen. Worm clamps are crap but people get so upset when you tell them that because they hate fighting with spring clamps.
It is true that you have to set spring clamps back in the same spot on older hoses but it's not a big deal. Other people mention that spring clamps rust and break, yes they do if you buy cheap ones. There's a cheap version of everything especially when you buy from Amazon. When I fixed my truck I went to the salvage yard and got OEM clamps. Still no leaks 5 years later. If you live in the salt belt no one can help you there, everything rusts away on a car that spends half the year covered in salt, that's just life. Also worth noting is people buy the wrong size clamp (it's too loose but easy to install) and then it leaks but hey it's the spring clamps fault...... or maybe not.....
Also smaller worm clamps, clamp in a "D" shape and are guaranteed to leak. At worst small spring clamps, clamp in an egg shape. Automobile manufacturers have to provide warranties to compete these days and they know worm clamps are nothing but trouble so they don't use them to hold back fluids. If look they only use them for air intake systems and maybe on the gas tank filler neck.
I get OEM spring clamps from the junk yard too. To replace screw clamps previous owners put on my vehicles.
I like the convenience of the spring clamps, but they’re too failure prone with age in my experience.
I've had plenty snap
The spring clamp is a great design. After 40 years of using them on imports I found that they rarely leak. The most important thing though is selecting the proper size. If you select too large of a clamp you won't have the proper tension and it will leak.
This is the problem with spring clamps. If you replace a hose and it's a different OD then the original clamp won't work and finding the correct clamp is difficult. Maybe somewhere is an assortment box of spring clamps.
Yes ,that’s why they come in different sizes
So I did some searching and there are spring clamps assortment, but the biggest one only goes to 22 mm. I'm not sure what to do about bigger sizes.
@@timothyball3144 You can take em off cars in the junk yard. Plenty of selection there.
@Ding Bop That is true. But which clamp is the right one for which hose? I just can't imagine myself making the time to go to a junk yard, removing hose clamps, measuring the hose, noting which clamp fits which hose, organizing them into their proper sizes in an organizer then making the space to store those organizers.
I can see how spring clamps are superior when it comes to proper clamping pressure, but when it comes to usability, they suck.
Spring clamps are typically used for dryer exhaust hoses as well. I find them very frustrating as they wear out over time and are a huge pain to get on.
These bands are made from a special 54SiCrV6 steel alloy or
51CrV4 so that the clamp shrinks or expands evenly around the circumference depending on the temperature. This always ensures a proper fit and no leakage below 3.0bar.
I keep seeing these sorts of videos for some reason. Recently I had to use a screw clamp for my plastic radiator hose because it's in a location that makes pliers impossible. That was maybe 8 months ago and haven't had any problems. I've never had a problem with screw clamps. I've actually had problems with old spring clamps not getting tight anymore.
These 'spring' clamps can be an absolute nightmare to deal with. In my garage we regularly replace them with jubilee clips. Never had one come back because it leaked.
Exactly!
I worked on one recently that sprang loose and impaled the palm of my hand. There's a worm drive clamp now in it's place.
I like constant tension clamps. They also make up for changes in the hose over time (ages). But they are difficult to find locally.
Except they don't...
I'm not sure if you noticed, but you have 2 links for tools that don't work on the hybrid clamp you linked.
You're right. I experienced it exactly. Better use constant hose clamp for radiator, auto adjusting to different heat levels. Unfortunately, not easy to find it in Indonesia.
Thank you Silver Cymbal for this video...Now I understand better on using the correct hose clamp for the radiator hose.
I rip all of those " smart" clamps off and use stainless worm gear clamps .The only reason those " smart clamps are used is for ease and speed of assembly . This tool has probably never turned a wrench.
I always throw worm gear clamps in the garbage when I can and replace with spring clamps.
I had a similar problem and fixed it successfully with double hose clamps 😂
I like your solution better though
Here here... Same... lol
Problem with the constant tension ones is after about 3 times taking it off then it’s worn out and won’t hold tension. Gets loose.
So get a new one!
Hm.. I basically had to replace the entire cooling system on my Chrysler 200 and I replaced some of them with worm clamps just because in hard areas I can just use my electric ratchet with 88 mm to tighten it. Instead of trying to get the old-fashioned one back on perfectly with pliers. But sometimes I still leak coolant. Good video.
The mechanic that replaced my radiator used regular screw clamps and it's working fine going on 5 years on my Mazda 6 ... All the stock ones were replaced those clamps are there stock because it's cheap and fast to install On assembly line when they make the car That's absolutely the only difference.. Clamp style worm type are far superior in every install I've done
Appreciate you making good videos very good information
I appreciate that!
How do you size these spring clamps?
Excellent tip. I just replaced a couple houses and used those clamps. I’ll replace them now
Don't waste your time with worm gear clamps. They're a bad design. Uneven clamping pressure around the circumference of the hose and they loosen up.
BMW has been using these since forever. Glad it made its way to other manufactures and aftermarket applications.
I've replaced so many of those sheet metal clamps with screw clamps because they stopped holding properly after being removed one time. On the other hand, I have never had a problem with good quality screw clamps done tight enough.
I've literally never had any leakes or this issue on my truck, And I have old style on most my stuff.
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You got to be kidding me. Mechanic for 40 yrs. I threw every one of these clamps away and cursed the guy who invented them. They lose tension and leak, are a pain to remove. Replaced them with the screw type and never had a problem. What the ad said is just the reverse.
Yeah this video is bs
You need special pliers for these types too. I'll just stick with the screw type
I always change them out for the screw ones especially when their in spots you can hardly get too. Honestly way easier to get off and on.
I worked for a clamp maker for almost twenty years. The screw type clamps we made could not be beat. We could not make enough millions of them. (Ideal Corp.!)
Listen to what he says at the beginning. Cold starts you notice leaks. I leave my truck sit for weeks sometimes a few months while trucking. I built my Chevy over a 5 year period and when I left the truck for a while all the clamps started to leak. After driving no leaks. I switched over to a quality hose clamp and now no leaks. You got to tighten them down then come back and tighten after a few heat cycles and full pressure has been run. I don’t like leaks
Those red clamps are the absolute devil. I replace all of mine anytime I take them off. I've been using worm clamps on my race cars and hi-po street cars for 27 years and I've never had them fail on me. The issue is not the clamps themselves or the design, it's almost always user error.
Exactly the same mate, the clamps he recommended are fucked.
Never had the issue he described.
Yeah, I don't know what he's talking about. He must have invested in those "smart" clamps.
Do you not count leaking as a failure?
Another problem with worm-drive hose clamps is they do not provide uniform tension around the hose. The area under the screw exerts a lot more force than the rest of the clamp. This can be a problem, especially with the proliferation of plastic radiators and other engine components.
Very important point, many people don't realize this. They have their places for lots of low pressure, less exacting uses but vehicles and such do not do well with them.
@@SilverCymbal I think that it is not true. Hi pressure does not make worm clamps fail. Heat is the reason for failure, but only because over tightening. The hose itself has enough elasticity to allow for the hose area next to the clamp to expand without failing. Also, the poly-nylon, or any plastic, that the radiator is made of, will also withstand the heat created. Moreover, metal also expands and contracts. It really is a matter of wear and tear, or manufacture defects on one of the components. This is just my humble opinion.
God bless your channel. The soldering connectors you mentioned in an earlier video changed my life!
Great to hear! Thank you for the kind words
They really are great once you learn to use them. I kept melting them and got frustrated, until I realized it was my own fault. When using a lighter you have to keep it moving, if you focus the heat on one area (even from a distance) the shrink material will melt away.
god's a myth
Been using worm drive clamps for over 40 years on many apps to include hit rodding and have never had a problem. With the exception of once I bought very cheap Chinese made clamps and the sucked. I also use hose tack on all my cooling lines, kinda like a semi permanent contact cement
Spring clamps have their place for rubber hoses, as they can adjust its grip against expansion and contraction with temperature changes. A dealer installed a worm gear clamp on my new rubber lower radiator hose and in my experience such clamps are best for hard material hoses like silicone.
That's crazy, cause I constantly replace spring clamps due to leaking 🤷♂️
Pro tip, put it back in the correct position.
Just for fun what would be the "correct" position on a newly installed hose to keep it from leaking? Or if clamp was leaking from the factory with only 20-30k miles?
@@derekbennett5896 Sounds like you have a wrong size hose and/or wrong size clamp.
@@SinsBird I'll let the fellas at the factory know they're using the wrong size clamp and or hose
@@derekbennett5896 Unfortunately they don't listen until there's a lawsuit
I've been around race cars for 30 years,with engines easily upwards of 30 to 40 thousand dollars. I have never seen not would I ever use those spring clamps.
@@Mole460 nobody said drag racing. I've been involved with go kart teams,and every class of stock cars ,from 4 cylinders all the way up to 1000 hp dirt late models. Standard screw type hose clamps are the norm
Worm gear clamps, commonly known as jubilee clips as they were invented by an engineer in HMS Jubilee . Now you know !
And knowing is half the battle... Forgive me, it's a reflex.
@@asm42 GI JOE..................................
Yep! Looks good:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jubilee_Clip
And even more “Wow!” about hose clamps:
“Within the United States, SAE International maintains Specification J1508 for thirty-two different hose clamp designs, including screw, spring, and t-bolt styles. It also maintains Specification J1610 for the testing the sealing of hoses. The US Army TACOM maintains Commercial Item Description (CID) A-A-52506 that provides for the standardized acquisition of hose clamps by the Department of Defense; the CID references the SAE specifications. The CID superseded Federal Specification WW-C-440 for hose clamps in 1994.”
SOURCE: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hose_clamp
Ahhh the jubilee clip.
That tool is a brilliant idea. I had so many mishaps with vise grips.
Best Advice Ever. Thanks for Sharing this.
Learn something new every day. Thanks and this makes perfect sense.
I love learning new things!
Glad you liked it
Everyday Is A School Day. You Never Stop Learning
I throw those spring clamps away when I take them off. Been in the trade 20 years.
Probably as long as this kid has been alive.
Question: Example you correctly remove a Lower Radiator Hose to Drain Coolant-Antifreeze when replacing a Thermastat. Drain Coolant-Antifreeze. Reinstall Lower Radiator Hose & Hose Pressure Clamp securely into exact positions. Refill Radiator with correct amount of Coolant-Antifreeze. You notice that you have a Lower Hose Radiator Leak and New Correct Size OEM Spring Clamps are not readily available. This why so many OEM Spring Hose clamps are replaced with easily available Automotive Store-Hardware Store Screw Clamps. When Screw Clamps are installed correctly or 2 Screw Clamps are used in tandem the Leak Stops & Holds. Old work habits that work are sometimes hard to change.
I use these everywhere on the cooling system of my truck, now all the clamps are easy to access. One popped off cuz I put it on not far enough on the radiator. I always just snug them up every time I do an oil change and they do great. Not too tight, just snug
I have uses zip ties too. Not again though. I will buy these spring clamps
For an emergency zip ties are good stuff
Another home run video Mr Silver! Maybe not as exciting as the others, but definitely commonsense information. I had no idea that tool you showed even existed! Will be putting that on my shopping list (any excuse to go to the hardware store 😃) Thank you!
This dude literally explains that metal contracts when its hot and expands when its cold the exact oppsite of how metal works
He said it leaked when cooled, that would be contraction
What you say makes sense. Both clamps do what they a designed to do, the main reason manufacturers us these simple clamps is low cost and ease of application.
As a 20+ year tech I do agree with this video. We live in an area that can change 20+ degrees from day to day. Never had a problem with squeeze clamps but periodic issues with the other. If I don't have squeeze clamp I have to tighten it, drive vehicle, let it cool down, retighten. Depending on the time of year you could have a large temp drop and still have it leak. Squeeze clamps are more of a p-i-t-a if you ask me, but at least I know I will not have a comeback. Customers don't understand nor care about educating them on how certain clamps might leak if it gets to cold.
Super helpful! I never knew this! Thanks for sharing!
I have to disagree, personally I hate those spring type clamps. Theyre most annoying when they’re in tight spaces especially.
They are tough in tight spots, hopefully you watched the rest of the video with the tool, it works really well even in places no other type could be accesed
AND finger gashers !!!
@@SilverCymbal No one wants to buy special tools to install clamps.
I have replaced a lot of hoses that rotted under these spring clamps. I do not like them.
@@carlosk8103 I buy the tool to install a superior clamp
I'm happy to be the eight hundred sixty-eighth "thumbs down" on this uninformative video. I think the 868 thumbs down figure represents the number of actual mechanics who've watched this video.
Yep.
Wow. Thank you. I've been doing it wrong for far too long
Thank you that makes sense i use to use the screw clamps as an replacement next time i am gonna use the original. Also i use locking pliers to remove those clamps it works perfecly