Thanks for the video, you make it look so easy and I definitely have more confidence in doing it myself. Keep it up and damn the the criticism, some people aren't happy unless they putting others down
@@kamsmag the round gauges are still good, I purchased the 'column' type for setting up injection systems really, did find them slightly easier to read than rotary dials, but would still be happy to use 'dial' types when setting up carbs. Paul
Thanks for that Mark, should take away some the 'mysteries' of bike maintenance; helps justify to the wife the ongoing purchase of tools and video equipment ;-) hopefully some people will be able to keep a little hard earned monies by having a go themselves.
Wife, do you really need that many tools’ answer YEP!! Lol I’ve just ordered a set of these synchronisers coz of your demo, is there anymore vids coming up on the XJR?? Manybe on swapping the ignition advancer for a 4 degree advancer and how to change the needles and gaskets on the carbs would be a great help!!! 👍🏻
Mark Wright nothing planned at the moment. Recently changed to taper bearings for the steering stem, no video as I already have one based on a DT400; principle is the same of course. Regarding the carbs I have done a couple of videos on a DT400 and GT250 again principle the same just x4!. Keep the carbs in a bank of 4 and work on one carb at a time.👍
Hi Paul, thanks for replying and the info. I'm starting to feel more confident. I've just gapped and replaced the spark plugs and now ready to tackle the throttle body synching. I got the 'Morgan Carbtune Pro' new from eBay ( ~ £80) to push me over the edge to do it. At the moment i have the tank on the bike and propped up with a large d blanket to give me access to the spark plug change. I understand i will need to remove the tank to allow me have see and have access to the vacuum ports ( which I see according to the yahama workshop manual have tubes linking 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 ) to fit the gauge 4 off rubber tubes. Then will replace tank and start. I plan to video this and upload it as there isn't much on the XJR and less so for the 2007 injection on models Cheers
Well done that man; don't want to sound like I am teaching you to suck eggs but just make sure the petrol level in the tank does not alter too much when you have it angled up, I have seen someone run the pump dry while having it running to supply fuel the the injectors; sounds like you have the situation well in hand anyway Cheers
Nice video, always been interested to see how this is done. Currently got carbs on bench from my XJR1200 for cleaning and doing some small upgrades to the air filter and inlets.
Thanks for the comments, think carb balancing sounds like one of those mysterious black art things until you do it and then its a bit of an "of course" moments :-) Bike shops locally have started to quote silly prices for doing what it is a quite simple job, think the gauges cost me £35, admittedly a few years back. Hope your upgrades go well Cheers
Hi, two things I am not understanding here: 1, was wondering why you didn't zeroed all the gauges first before starting?(I used #1 nozzle to even out all four gauges first) 2, don't we start syncing from the master carb?(my XJR 1300 RP02 has #3 carb as master. So #3 to #4 and/or #3 to #2,#1) Otherwise it make no sense to me somehow!
Hi, thanks for your comments. 1. Not sure what you mean by this? 3. No actual datum carb, so using either 1 & 2 then 3 & 4 is appropriate. Also, as we always state if you don't like the way we do something or if you believe you have a better way, do it your way. Cheers
@@paulbell9025 Paul, This is what he is trying to explain, many years ago I had a set of 4 vacuum gauges which I used on my GS750 They were British made (remember that!) Each gauge had a adjusting screw on it so that it could be adjusted (calibrated) so when all 4 were connected to the same vacuum source they would all read the same, Then they would be calibrated and ready to measure the individual cylinder vacuum, if not checked for calibration before use it result in errors as any of the gauges may give a different reading and you wont know it. Simply put, verify the tool before trusting the reading, I made a small manifold with 5 connections to connect the 4 together then connect to any cylinder to see if all 4 read the same before use, this gives confidence in the accuracy of the test. Hope this helps
@Ifitwerks thanks for the input. I had calibrated the gauges pretty much as you describe prior to making the video. Perhaps I could have mentioned that in the video.
Great Video Paul. I bought some vacuum gauges to balance my carbs but the needle were over the place, on watching your video I notice there are no suppressors with my kit did you add them on your self?
Hi Stephen, my set came with the regulators, I also have a mercury tube set which also have the provision for damping; wonder if your set is missing the damping valves?
@@paulbell9025 Hi Paul sorry for late reply. I'll check with suppliers but i have had them over a year now so not sure if they will help now. I will source some tho ;)
I've just done my early r1 and on idle I have all 4 needles pointing to let's say 9 o'clock should I have them like this vid pointing more to 7 o'clock?
Don't believe the 'clock' position is critical (can change from bike to bike) more to do with the needles all corresponding with each other in position and movement.
Hi, lot of similarity to setting up carbs (except of course the electronics side of injection) not done an injected XJR, but just done a Triumph triple set up. #3 is the datum in this instance, so pretty much like the carb tutorial set the datum and work from that, probably looks scarier than it is :-) I have found that the 'carb tune' gauges with the metal rods as indicators work better than 'old school' gauges when syncing injectors; BTW how are you going to pump petrol to the injectors, do you have an auxiliary supply set up or do you have room to work with the tank left on the bike and propped up in some way. Cheers Paul
Hi I came across you video. I have an xjr400 that just picked up. It's running and idling but cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be getting much hotter than 1 and 2. All the mixture screws seem on the same setting. Any idea what this could be?? Thanks
Hi Sean, don't have any experience of the 400. Could be a lot of things of course. How about running the engine up and then checking the colour of the spark plugs as a starting point.
There will be a recommend service limit at a number of miles or kilometers; although for me it is when the bike is not running so well, reving up and tickover in particular 👍
Thanks for the video, you make it look so easy and I definitely have more confidence in doing it myself. Keep it up and damn the the criticism, some people aren't happy unless they putting others down
Thanks for the comments George, much appreciated.
Recently redone the XJR synchronization again, invested in new gauges, the type with 4 columns.
@@paulbell9025 Did you find these gauges not good enough? I have the same ones. I used them to do the carbs on my xjr. Seem to have worked ok.
@@kamsmag the round gauges are still good, I purchased the 'column' type for setting up injection systems really, did find them slightly easier to read than rotary dials, but would still be happy to use 'dial' types when setting up carbs.
Paul
Gday Paul, getting a new clutch spring for the xjr has helped greatly with the slipping clutch. Flossc
Great, like I mentioned in the video the after market spring made the lever action slightly heavier (probably) but not a real world issue.
Hi Paul really enjoying these videos on the XJR, very clear on what you’re do and informative cheers 👍🏻
Thanks for that Mark, should take away some the 'mysteries' of bike maintenance; helps justify to the wife the ongoing purchase of tools and video equipment ;-) hopefully some people will be able to keep a little hard earned monies by having a go themselves.
Wife, do you really need that many tools’ answer YEP!! Lol I’ve just ordered a set of these synchronisers coz of your demo, is there anymore vids coming up on the XJR?? Manybe on swapping the ignition advancer for a 4 degree advancer and how to change the needles and gaskets on the carbs would be a great help!!! 👍🏻
Mark Wright nothing planned at the moment. Recently changed to taper bearings for the steering stem, no video as I already have one based on a DT400; principle is the same of course. Regarding the carbs I have done a couple of videos on a DT400 and GT250 again principle the same just x4!.
Keep the carbs in a bank of 4 and work on one carb at a time.👍
Ok cheers 🍻 Paul
you should have shown where the adjuster for 12/34 is, because that's the tricky one to find
i done a static balance while i had my carbs off doing the cam tensioner recon i will be doing this just to be sure 🍻
Hi Paul, thanks for replying and the info. I'm starting to feel more confident. I've just gapped and replaced the spark plugs and now ready to tackle the throttle body synching. I got the 'Morgan Carbtune Pro' new from eBay ( ~ £80) to push me over the edge to do it. At the moment i have the tank on the bike and propped up with a large d blanket to give me access to the spark plug change.
I understand i will need to remove the tank to allow me have see and have access to the vacuum ports ( which I see according to the yahama workshop manual have tubes linking 1 to 2 and 3 to 4 ) to fit the gauge 4 off rubber tubes.
Then will replace tank and start.
I plan to video this and upload it as there isn't much on the XJR and less so for the 2007 injection on models
Cheers
Well done that man; don't want to sound like I am teaching you to suck eggs but just make sure the petrol level in the tank does not alter too much when you have it angled up, I have seen someone run the pump dry while having it running to supply fuel the the injectors; sounds like you have the situation well in hand anyway
Cheers
Where is the idle screw and pilot screw
Nice video, always been interested to see how this is done. Currently got carbs on bench from my XJR1200 for cleaning and doing some small upgrades to the air filter and inlets.
Thanks for the comments, think carb balancing sounds like one of those mysterious black art things until you do it and then its a bit of an "of course" moments :-) Bike shops locally have started to quote silly prices for doing what it is a quite simple job, think the gauges cost me £35, admittedly a few years back. Hope your upgrades go well
Cheers
Hi, two things I am not understanding here:
1, was wondering why you didn't zeroed all the gauges first before starting?(I used #1 nozzle to even out all four
gauges first)
2, don't we start syncing from the master carb?(my XJR 1300 RP02 has #3 carb as master. So #3 to #4 and/or #3 to #2,#1)
Otherwise it make no sense to me somehow!
Hi, thanks for your comments.
1. Not sure what you mean by this?
3. No actual datum carb, so using either 1 & 2 then 3 & 4 is appropriate.
Also, as we always state if you don't like the way we do something or if you believe you have a better way, do it your way.
Cheers
@@paulbell9025 ya okay, if you don't even know what I'm talking about, it's better to leave it right there.
Cheers
@@paulbell9025 Paul, This is what he is trying to explain, many years ago I had a set of 4 vacuum gauges which I used on my GS750 They were British made (remember that!) Each gauge had a adjusting screw on it so that it could be adjusted (calibrated) so when all 4 were connected to the same vacuum source they would all read the same, Then they would be calibrated and ready to measure the individual cylinder vacuum, if not checked for calibration before use it result in errors
as any of the gauges may give a different reading and you wont know it.
Simply put, verify the tool before trusting the reading, I made a small manifold with 5 connections to connect the 4 together then connect to any cylinder to see if all 4 read the same before use, this gives confidence in the accuracy of the test. Hope this helps
@Ifitwerks thanks for the input. I had calibrated the gauges pretty much as you describe prior to making the video.
Perhaps I could have mentioned that in the video.
@@paulbell9025 That's good to hear, where were the calibration screws on the gauges as I could not see them?
Great Video Paul. I bought some vacuum gauges to balance my carbs but the needle were over the place, on watching your video I notice there are no suppressors with my kit did you add them on your self?
Hi Stephen, my set came with the regulators, I also have a mercury tube set which also have the provision for damping; wonder if your set is missing the damping valves?
@@paulbell9025 Hi Paul sorry for late reply. I'll check with suppliers but i have had them over a year now so not sure if they will help now. I will source some tho ;)
I've just done my early r1 and on idle I have all 4 needles pointing to let's say 9 o'clock should I have them like this vid pointing more to 7 o'clock?
Don't believe the 'clock' position is critical (can change from bike to bike) more to do with the needles all corresponding with each other in position and movement.
Saves me asking the question. Cheers Paul and top vid
How do you adjust them do you lift the tank and remove vacuum pipes from inlets the ones that go to tank and run it on prime ?
Okay, can sometimes get away with the fuel left in the bowls, if not I use an auxiliary fuel supply direct into the carbs.
Thanks Paul - excellent clip. I have a 2012 injected model. Manual say s take no3 as ref. I want to do this but now not sure. Any comments Paul?
Hi, lot of similarity to setting up carbs (except of course the electronics side of injection) not done an injected XJR, but just done a Triumph triple set up.
#3 is the datum in this instance, so pretty much like the carb tutorial set the datum and work from that, probably looks scarier than it is :-)
I have found that the 'carb tune' gauges with the metal rods as indicators work better than 'old school' gauges when syncing injectors; BTW how are you going to pump petrol to the injectors, do you have an auxiliary supply set up or do you have room to work with the tank left on the bike and propped up in some way.
Cheers
Paul
Hi I came across you video. I have an xjr400 that just picked up. It's running and idling but cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be getting much hotter than 1 and 2. All the mixture screws seem on the same setting. Any idea what this could be?? Thanks
Hi Sean, don't have any experience of the 400.
Could be a lot of things of course.
How about running the engine up and then checking the colour of the spark plugs as a starting point.
Thanks you to your videos, how do you know when the time to cyncronize you carb on your motor cycle?
There will be a recommend service limit at a number of miles or kilometers; although for me it is when the bike is not running so well, reving up and tickover in particular 👍
What is the coz, if you reving into 4thousand rpm even in 2thousand rpm the idling won't go down right Way?