Monday Mod Tips - Simple Stryfe Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 2 сер 2024
- NOTE: Yes, I realise the blaster is black. It is the base coat. It will get painted more.
NOTE: If you need to know how to do the actual motor installation see my guide on wiring a flywheel cage.
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1:49 little x
I don’t get it
Thermistor = no fun allowed.
Twisted Thermistor = either an early 90s rock group, or fun allowed.
Honestly 90fps is fine for a lot of super stock games, I've used a ton of 90-100fps blaster at borst games and done totally fine, even got multiple tags in a row with a stock hammershot
sweet a new mod tips video. I needed this one, I lost a friend recently due to the Plague/virus.
I am sorry to hear that.
@@CaptainXavier thanks man
Lol I just got diagnosed it would be a bruh moment if I died
@@tcascar578 did u die
That's sad to hear :(
It's a bi metal switch, two dissimilar metals are laminated in a curved orientation. As it heats it straightens breaking the circuit. You described it well. It prevents you from cooking the wire.
Neat. Never realised Honey Badgers worked so well on AAs
Now, if only I could find some in the UK,
Hey captain Xavier, Thanks for the mod tip, next Strife I get that's what I'm gonna do to it
Captain, I have got a challenge for you. I don’t doubt that you have broken old guns and stuff like that. Old scrapped projects and all. What I was thinking, as a challenge, is to make your own one-of-a-kind gun from all those junked and scrapped parts that (assuming you do) have. Just freaking borderlands it if you want to get right down to it.
This is a great series. People scream LIPO for modding (for good reason), but people with little to no experience in the hobby or soldering can be apprehensive about it. This is a great was to introduce them to modding flywheels quick and easy.
And you can use your lipos from your rc or drone hobby in nerf, or the other way round. It's how I got a new hobby. Since you have a bunch of the stuff for it already it's a lot cheaper to foray into different hobbies
Yes. For me it cost over $30 shipping for a $9 Lipo pack
My first mod cost WAY to much money for what I got, but it was a great learning experience. I wish this video had been up back then. Great video, I will use it for my next stryfe mod.
what did you do if i may ask? just wanna know before i start on my stryfe
Picked up some honey badgers and some new fly wheels for a quick cheap little upgrade for a stryfe!
@Vault-Man 101 out of darts!
Great info. I twisted the thermistor on my Stryfe and it still did it's function. Good thing I'm doing a full rewire next.
Hey im new to the whole modding thing, and this really helps. Thanks for making this hobby super enjoyable!
from what I learned when modding my modulus stryfe (because the thermistor on that is real messed up) all your info on how the thermistor works is correct! Good job cap!
you are so professional i love your Mod Tips they always help me! Keep it up!!
I may have missed it, but have you done the follow up video to this? Excited to see how the motors do with battery upgrade!
I would very much like a specific video about thermistors and how to properly calculate their capacity for your build.
They are dirt cheap even for high-power builds and IMHO worth 2 extra solder spots.
I would love to see that video too.
Some (me) might argue that still twisting that regulator but instead or soldering new motors, installing 3 trustfires and a dummy battery would be an easier mod, it's what I initially did and it worked fine. (4 trustfires would slow the motors after a few 18 round mags went through it but not with the Ravenfire but i still only use 3 trustfires and a dummy in both) Later, I installed the single, triple and full auto selector and it's awesome!
Great mod video, it would be nice at some point though to install new motors if not a new cage, new wires and a host of other mods. =P
What fps were you getting with the three trustfires on the stryfe?
This, I needed this for my eventual stryfle build
Good luck my friend
Great video I think beginners will search this a lot
I finally have 2 stryfes..but I don't know anything about internal modification.
This will help
Thanks for the vid Captain. Now I need to give the Ladies of Foamblast a lot of cash for a pile of motors
I use a cheap 10 dollar walmart soldering iron. Works fine if your on a budget
how hasnt your house burned down yet?
Smile C: probably because he is using it correctly
Jack Argie yea you're probably right
I recommend the jolt for your fist mod or stryfe
very lovely
if you REALLY dont want to solder or anything you can turn the electronic locks around so the switch is ALWAYS engaged.
Are there other lower voltage motor options or is honey badger the lowest voltage? Well done tutorial, as always.
Jim Valko it’s not necessary low voltage you’re looking for, it’s current draw. There are motors that take only half the voltage of honey badgers but spin 3 times faster, but they take forever to get up to that speed. What you’re looking for is a motor that doesn’t draw so much current that the batteries don’t have enough power to get them spinning. Hope this helps, feel free to ask if you have any more questions
Thanks for the vid sir it was you or the news... thanks and sorry for you and your gangs recent loss, (FoamBlast, Bert, Bobo and the nerf community) better days my friend
I'm kinda scared to mod a stryfe, BUT. It'll match my modded Hammershot. That I did all by myself. Cuz I'm a big boy :D
Oh look a new video
never clicked so fast in my life
Ikr
@hot_chocolate_ venom umm it took you 2 months to click?
Lovely little mod for someone who doesn't want to use LiPos! Would doing a full rewire with 18 AWG wire and a 21A microswitch improve performance over the stock wiring harness? Also, would it be safe to run the Honey Badgers off Eneloop rechargeable NiMh AAs or could the draw from the Honey Badgers damage the Eneloops? Thank you again for the excellent content and have a great day! =)
Good stuff Captain. Can we still expect the video on the battery options for the Stryfe? Also I am building an order of supplies to get into modding flywheel blasters and am curious about the wire. OOD has three sizes on their website, 14AWG, 16AWG and 18AWG. What size do I need to go with?
Depends on the build. He carries different gauges because different builds require different gauges.
just ordered two of those bad bois, cannot wait to pick up a soldering iron, and some soder and get to work. I probably should of asked this before, but i got the fortnite smg, and i was wondering if these motors would also work in that blaster, i would assume they do considering it's just a stryfe, just backwards.
Just finished doing this mod on an SMG-E, the thermoster was coded in plastic/paint so that the twisted thermoster trick was not possible, and it really threw me for a loop. Because of my faulty motor wiring, however this worked amazingly.
I have been collecting things for my stryfle build. I will add this upgrade to my build too.
You so awesome!!!!!!!!!
Yeah
I’ll still stick to being a springer peasant lol
Peasont? Hardly. Springers are better for accuracy and power
Same
@@davenorman6958 depends on the Springer I guess
I'll stick to not using mags
Cool
Could we get some close ups of the Thermistor hack thingy??
all you have to do is twist the top until both wires touch each other, hope this helped
I always seem to find your most useful videos long after they've come out. This one has been a huge help and I'll be doing something similar with a Rayvenfire. I wanted to ask though: will the stock wiring and switches survive this? I understand that while Honey Badgers are still lower-current motors, that they draw notably more current than the stock motors do, and supposedly stock switches do not handle much current at all. Would Honey Badgers draw more current than what the switches can handle? Can AAs even output that much current to begin with?
Stock switches should be fine. AAs cannot produce enough current to damage them.
@@CaptainXavier thanks captain!
What about IMRs? I have Night Cores I purchased from Out of Darts and I'd like to upgrade my sidearm strife as a first time flywheel mode.
As I said in this video, I will cover that in the next video.
Coming from a place where I knew nothing about electronics, didnt have a dremel, didnt know how to solder, no soldering iron, etc, I thought the stryfe was so hard. Then I modded a nitron.... and a regulator...
I want to make a quick release mag so I can effectively dual wield
A simple mod for a simple man
Here's an idea for a cool mod: The Nerf Rival Charger but it uses Rival magazines like a p90!
Er that’s been done by Hasbro already, the Zeus.
Someone else eventually made your dream come true, sir. A bunch of people on the Nerf subreddit, r/Nerf, did it simultaneously.
Hi Captain Xavier - would you recommend a rewire as well as honey badger motors or will the lower resistance have a negative effect elsewhere?
The difference in resistance between wire of those gauges is almost unmeasureable until you start talking about lengths of 1000's of ft.
@@CaptainXavier I see. Thank you for the reply, a gentleman and a scholar 👍🏻
Trying to do a motor swap on my stryfe but I want to keep my coolook lipo batterys I have already not wanting to switch to a big brick of a lipo what motors can I use
On the topic of motors what would you recommend for someone trying to make a rotating mini gun barrel I’ve heard that stock strife motors will work just fine but I’m worried that they wouldn’t have enough power to actually move the barrels especially if I keep it on double As
It depends how light the barrels are. The BuzzBee Punisher just used a 130 motor. TYR used a MUCH bigger motor.
Captain Xavier I’ll probably need to use a bigger motor then haha thanks for the advice 😊
Could you run honey badgers with IMRs for any increase or are AAs better?
I will be covering that in the next video.
I want to add the worker full auto kits to my stryfes but I'm not ready to switch to lipo yet, do you think honeybadgers would help keep the blasters at stock performance/above or do you think they wouldn't help and I should just keep the stock motors? This is my first wiring mod
With the added motor of a selectfire kit, you will never get decent performance on AAs. You need to at least move up to IFRs (I recommend Coolooks from OutofDarts) but in all reality, it will cost more in time and money than just making the jump to LiPo. It is a bit scary, and there is a bit of an upfront cost, but it is WELL worth it in the long run.
Does the performance really change just by puting hunny badger motors in and taking that safety feature out?
Yes
Ths it was helpfull
what if I used this tutorial with some of the high-power motors on OoD? Great vid!
...dude...I literally answer that question in the video. Go watch the whole video.
O wait sorry I was wondering about OoD batteries (non-LiPo), not motors, sorry.
@@maxmathena4417 these are the Coolook LiFePo4 batteries.
My stryfe mod is stock motors and 9 v
Man id love to see this stryfe w/ honey badgers on some 14500 lithiums. Id also love to see you do a full rewire with better switch and 2s2p battery tray!
Can you do Monday mod tips on how to soldier
I already have...
Okay thank you captain
So you said the honey badgers offer very little torque (id assume less tq than most aftermarket motors) but how is the tq from honey badgers compared to stock stryfe motors?
Better.
Nope, you're good on the thermistor point. That's exactly what causes the blaster to stop operating on a simple motor swap.
“Captain tech tips”
I did my first mod the other day
Technically a thermistor is a resistor which decreases in resistance when it is hotter. This wouldn't cause the effect that the component in the Stryfe does. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think the component is technically a thermistor, unless it is a special type which I have never heard of.
There are two kinds, NTC and PTC. With NTC thermistors, resistance decreases as temperature rises. With PTC thermistors, resistance increases as temperature rises.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor
@@CaptainXavierThanks! 👍
How well would two MTB Honeybadgers run off of two Coolook batteries with two dummy batteries? I'm currently using a stryfe with 2 honeybadgers and consumer grade NiMH cells with the stock battery tray. Would there be any performance boost from using coolooks instead of NiMH cells?
Probably? Only one way to know for sure.
Do you have a purchase link for these Honey badger motors?
OutofDarts.com
Can you make a video like this but with a rayven?!
It would be exactly the same...just a different shell.
@@CaptainXavier ya but I think I'd be pretty net, extra info
Mr. Shadow708 yeah it’s exactly the same except the thermoster is in the grip area. If you’re planning on nodding an original green n strike rayven, you don’t even need honey badgers. You can just clean up the circuit and get 75 fps out of it. Project nerf made a great video, just search up basic rayven rewire
Hey captain me again, I started a nerf rival collection and have found a few blasters that had improperly aligned or canted if you will hop up causing the high impact rounds to curve. Can you show us how to adjust the hop up and fix this? I'm currently having this issue with a Zeus.
The hop up tab is right near the end of the barrel, check and make sure it is in straight. If that is not the issue then odds are one of your wheels is either misaligned or one of your motors is spinning at a different speed. The wheels you can realign. The motor...not so much
@@CaptainXavier I want to try and fix it but i dont know where to start, I also have limited tools.😅
Well...start by checking the hop up tab in the barrel. Then look down the barrel or open the jam door and see if the flywheels are even.
@@CaptainXavier Hmmm weird, the hop up looks to be in properly and the wheels look to be spaced evenly as well. I'm seeing Evan later hopefuly he can help me diagnose. Thanks Captain
Niiiiicccee
Is that you Joestar?
@@FlyingSpur99 Kono DIO da!!
Hey captain xavier can i use honey badger motors on a ravyen?
Yes
@@CaptainXavier ok thanks
dumb idea, but what if i took an 8 double a battery tray with a negative and postive wire and replaced the battery tray on a stock stryfe, would that mean i would have a 12 volt stryfe?
Yes. But that would probably burn out the stock motors very quickly. Assuming the thermistor did not shut it down first.
Will simply changing the fly wheels have any effect on performance?
I really do not have the tools and experience to put in new motors.
Yes...but I could not tell you what effect any given wheels would have with stock motors. Probably not much.
@@CaptainXavier
Another question if that's fine:
So I have stock motors with stock wheels,would doing the bypass trick with the thermal safety unit have any affect on the performance as well?
Also if I made a mistake by removing the plastic/rubber piece in front of the flywheel cage that slows darts down before they hit the wheels.
Because I'm looking for effective and cheap ways to improve my stryfe.
I also barely modified mine,and it sounds much louder than normal.
The sad truth is there are no "cheap and effective" mods. You have to pick one or the other. If it is cheap it will not be effective. If it is effective it will not be cheap.
The plastic flap you removed is not necessary. It does not exist to slow the dart, it exists to keep the dart centered.
The Thermistor removal only matters if you upgrade the motors. Otherwise it is pretty much pointless.
@@CaptainXavier ok,that is great to know.
I can't see those MTB 2s Honey Badgers in Out Of Darts........only the 2s Neo Badgers....could the Neo badgers work for aa's or 9v?
Almost certainly not.
Noice
Will disabling the thermoster and adding imr batteries without replacing the motors increase performance
You don't need to disable the thermistor to use IMRs with stock motors. Doing so will not do anything.
@@CaptainXavier ok thanks
does this mod mean i can swap the motors to say fang revamps and still use the stock wiring and stock switches? and just use imrs? do you just have to replace the switch when using a lipo?
No. This ONLY works with Honey Badgers. FangRV's draw too much Current for IMRs or stock wiring.
@@CaptainXavier thank you for responding this really helps!!
Hello captain
Hi
Do you know of anywhere you can still get honey badgers or equivalent motors? They all seem to be out of stock, would FK-131PH’s running on 4x1.2v rechargeable’s be comparable to honey badgers?
I don't think they are available anymore. And I have no idea. You would have to compare the specs.
They seem very similar, the only thing I can’t work out is the stall current, stats are: 5v 38500rpm- 1.05a current, just going to get them and see what happens lol
Did you trim the ribs in the cage to make the motors fit?
Yes but if you do it right you don't have to.
@@CaptainXavier good to know. I've never tried aftermarket motors in a stock cage
What time is it over there it 23:02
I am in Pacific time. It is 21:00 here
I tried this same honeybadger mod/upgrade on the Star Wars Andor/Jyn Erso blaster, but I'm only getting Nerf standard performance of 70-75fps. Still much better than the stock average of 50fps, but I'm not sure why I'm not getting the 90fps performance on AAs.
Probably because you used and Jyn Erso rather than a Stryfe. They are not the same.
@@CaptainXavier any idea why it doesn't get a similar performance? is it the barrel causing drag or maybe the LED and sound fx parts drawing too much power away from the motors maybe?
@Teku66 probably a combination of the two. Different motors, wheels, cage. Lots of little things adding up.
I had forgotten about the light and sound, that is a good call.
Can I use a pair of 2s MTB Neo
Badgers?
I have never tried Neo Badgers, but I doubt it.
I would love to do this simple easy mod since I can buy the motors, but I don't have the same machine that he has that little box machine that I don't even know what's it called.
...little box machine? You mean a soldering iron?
@@CaptainXavier Yes that thing XD I don't have that nor would I know how to use that
time to
Sorry to disturb u yet again but will Honey Badgers work with C and D battery's?
Yes. Better even as they provide more current.
Ok thank you captain
Xenomorph or Yautja?
Are the Honey Badgers much noisier than the stock motors?
Yes
The motors themselves aren’t what causes the noise, it’s the flywheels vibrating as they spin. Therefore the faster they spin, the louder your blaster will be. If you want a quieter blaster, worker wheels will decrease the noise by quite a bit.
@@frosttgasian1168 I just got some worker wheels.
Burasta good choice
where do u get those honeybadgers?
OutofDarts.com
If I was to do this mod, but get better wheels, what wheels would you recommend?
Light ones.
Worker wheels are a great choice. They will boost your performance and spin up faster. You don’t want the lightest wheels on the market though, because light wheels don’t have as much inertia and will actually bog down more between shots when your firing quickly.
@@frosttgasian1168 what type of worker wheels? im looking on OUTOFDARTS.com right now and Ive found at least 10 different types of worker wheels for sale. Is there a specific type that you meant?
CuzZaya for sure. You want the ones that are white, and are standard crush. This type of mod won’t have enough torque to power anything high crush
@@frosttgasian1168 ok thanks for specifying, i'll look into this!
If I twist the thermistor without changing the motors will that help my blaster at all?
No
Iron no, but removing all the boards and resistors certainly will. Kinda like straight piping a car. You can get an og n strike green rayven to hit 75 fps with stock motors on as batteries just by stripping out all the stock wiring and using thicker wire
FrostTG Asian I can’t do any rewireing because my soldering iron broke and I don’t have money for one cuz of covid
Iron You could try rapping a piece of steel wire around a lighter. Look for diy soldering irons. They should work in a pinch
Would this mod work with new cage and flywheels or would that bring down the fps?
It would depend on the cage and wheels. Honey Badgers are fairly low torque (thus the ability to run on low current batteries) so heavy wheels or high crush wheels/cages would lower the FPS. However, standard crush cages and wheels would be fine and would improve the performance.
@@CaptainXavier thank you so much I really appreciate you replying also I love ur videos
i really want to do a mod like this, but those motors sound really unhealthy. do they just sound strained, or are they actually damaging themselves? is there a danger to dissabling the electronic lock with modded motors?
They are definitely strained. And yes, disabling the locks makes it easier to jam the blaster if you are not careful.
Is the next video to this already out?
Sadly it ended up not happening for...reasons.
Can I use IMR batteries with this mod?
Yes
Would Meishel2.0s work on AAs as well?
Not even a little. No.
@@CaptainXavier good to know, thanks
Hi Xavier,
For a little while I've been getting tired of the non collapsible and bluky stocks for the stryfe so I wanted to throw a Rapidstrike stock on a stryfe but I don't know how. Any ideas?
Not really. That sounds like a beast of an integration. But the goal would be to cut the stock off the Rapid stock and figure out how to add a stock socket. I don't know how well that will collapse. The stock usually collapses well into the shell of the Rapidstrike. I don't if that will be possible with the Stryfe.
@@CaptainXavier I was thinking of taking the whole stock out and drill holes in the stryfe shell where it would be optimal for the stock to go on to. My main confusion point is how will I make the stock sturdy and collapsible
@@antihero6988 I wish you luck.
@@CaptainXavier Thank you. Do you have an email that I can send sketches and pictures to?
@@antihero6988 all contact info is in the video description.
What gauge wire should I be using for thisq
18g is more than enough for almost any Nerf Mod. 20g is fine for lighter mods. Only heavy mods need anything heavier.
@@CaptainXavier thanks👍
Can you do the esc 10?
Yes. It is exactly the same, just a different shell.
@@CaptainXavier thank you
At what voltage do honey badger motors burn out?
No idea but it is higher than 12v.
@@CaptainXavier I mean I ran 4 lifep04 batteries in my stryfe and I didn’t smell anything burning and it was stock I just removed the thermistor and the flywheel restrictor locks and my stryfe was fine I just want to get more power in my stryfe but little mods at a time so I don’t break budget I started by removing the locks now I’m going to do what you did in your video and eventually the rest!
@@CaptainXavier when rewiring a stryfe with new motors flywheels and cage to run off of lifep04’s or imr’s do you have to put in a 21 amp micro switch? Or is it just if I am using a lipo?
how to get those motors im poland?
No idea. OutOfDarts.com might ship to poland...
No trouble and Stryfe
Will imrs work with this?
Yes. 2 IMRs and two dummy batteries will technically work...but are not advised.
I’m already lost :(