About to replace the hydraulic lifters or do a valve job or something lol...it's tapping at startup. It's a beast of an engine for a V6. 326,000 miles and it wants more! It needs a rear main seal at this point as well as an oil pan gasket. But it will pull a big Kubota tractor uphill.
I use to have an 01 v6 with the stick.... I traded it for an 02 truck that had a 5.4. Kind of regret it. After having that v8 the v6 looks soo much more easier to work on!
Thanks so much . at the dealership they were talking about sending off and tearing apart and getting a lathe machine operator to replace the lifters . i could see the dollars flying appreciate the video !!
Did you replace the valve cover gasket as well? I have the same issue of my truck making a ticking sound. Just can't pin point the issue without doing trial and error test. Lol! Here is what is happening, I'm going down the road and let off on the gas. When I let off I here a metallic ping tryed octane booster still didn't work so now my conclusion is that it's the valve lifters. So that being said I'm gonna try that. Thanks for posting something like this.
I just did this on my truck. And it went really well. Just make sure to get a small torque wrench for the lifter bolts and for the valve cover bolts. A small torque wrench runs about 25 dollars at Orielys. This video helped a ton!!
good deal...I have the same truck and rebuilt the bottom half...as you know its better to replace both sides in the long run as it ends up being a power imbalance on the end.....nice job and good luck in the future..mine after 15000 still running smooth...did a jmod to the trans and ran it ..nice mod funny how a v6 can squeal 3 gears..lol but going to open the trans back up and change the plate and put the springs back in...only thing I am going to keep is the boar hole on the plate to engage reverse fast as that works great....also had a computer hooked to my trans to control the shifting but was hard on the truck....) peace
Hey Dave! Your video is a life saver! Quick question. How’re you able to find the part at that price? I can’t find it cheaper than $38 a piece. I would really appreciate a response. Thanks!
I wish my 02 f150 supercrew and my 05 lincoln town car had that 4.2 V6 instead of the 4.6 V8, because the central cam push rod engines werent all the trouble that the 4.0 and 4.6 and 5.4 have
Been having the same problem with my truck and i want to get it fixed before it gets worse. Does anyone know if theirs a kit out there with everything you need?
Hi! I have a vibrant sound like this 8:15 just in cold start, after a moment it disappear. Could you help me to know how to fit it? Thank you, Saludos from Monterrey Nuevo León.
@@davesgarage3227 how does one check the exhaust manifold? What if it's the exhaust gasket or the pipes running underneath. Can we pu to oil in the intake to see where the smoke blows out then patch with thermal clay? The video here he doesn't even say what the hell he replaced, what does a rocker arm even do or push rod whatever I got lot to learn.
@@davesgarage3227 Would a bad or worn out spring inside my lifter cause my rocker arm to be loose cause the push rod in the rocker arm that is loose sits lower than the other push rods wich rocker arms are tight thanks Dave..
I ordered my parts from advance auto. If you hear more than a inconsistent tap, I'd recommend you get a second opinion from someone local. Your issue might be different and you don't want to spend money on stuff you don't need. Hope this helps!
@@davesgarage3227 My guess is that you have a cracked head around where the lifter sets in it’s hole and the lifter and rocker arm are both just floating around inside your valve cover. Happened recently to my 4.6 engine. They are similar. Happens sometimes do to overheating. Best of luck!
well im getting ready to do this to my truck still starts but once the knocking started i quit running it and it has 326,000 original miles on it i'm going to replace both sides with new rockers and push rods and doing a oil change with adding a new oil pickup this all started from me letting this sit for a few weeks with out driving it but started it like once a week and let it run for a little wish me luck this ole girl not ready for junk pile yet
Hey Dave, GREAT video and now? to my story. My 1999 F150 went just a few feet shy of 300,000 miles. Replaced the engine with a Jasper reman and have been fighting problems ever since and the reman engine only has 13,000 miles on it now but? it's way past the 2 year warranty mark. I too had the same noise from the reman engine but? it was intermittent. Sometimes at start up? you never heard a thing, sometimes? it would tick for 15 - 30 seconds and quit, sometimes? it seems that the noise never went away. Jasper isn't going to do anything and the installer is a joke. I have the intake, upper and lower off, heads off and that's when I saw your video. I removed my rockers, the bolt and the pivot and compared mine to yours in your video and my rockers and pivot out of a 13,000 mile reman engine look as bad as yours from your 175,000 mile engine. I have barred the engine over several times trying to "feel" if there was any excess play in the bottom end / rotating assembly and feel nothing. Not sure if I should keep going, separate the transmission from the engine and check for a cracked flex plate? My last stage would be to pull the engine, put it on a stand and remove the oil pan and visually inspect the bottom end. I'm too far into this as far as money to give up now....was hoping I might get your thoughts, ideas, comments and suggestions as to how far I should go with this. The noise "seemed" like it came from the driver side valve cover area.....I'd just hate to go through all this to find out it was the bottom end. I will tell you and anyone else reading this.....I will NEVER deal/buy another Jasper engine product again.
Hey Hyway Harris. Thanks for the feedback. I'm sorry to hear about your experience and thanks for the detailed explanation. I'm not an expert, but lower end noise is consistent and persistent, so it would never go away. I don't think you have a rotating assembly problem. What concerns me is that you said your rocker arms are as worn as mine were, but with only 13k miles. I'm thinking oil starvation - could be the oil pump, could be blocked/clogged oil passages, could be a clogged pick up tube. But I'm leaning towards the oil pump or pickup tube because you said it was intermittent. It sounds like your down to the short block and if it was mine, I'd pull it and put it on a stand.
@@davesgarage3227 Thanks Dave! What I am starting to believe is that the installer sold me a long block but? may have used the reman heads on something else or? just re-used my original heads. Oil pressure on the idiot gauge was always up where it should be however? I have NO actual numbers to give you as in PSI. Funny? the original engine never had any engine issues. When I got the truck back? the factory PCV tube on the right side was gone and the installer used vacuum hose. Also? the valve cover on the right side is patched with some type of epoxy (dented and cracked on the inside like something fell on the valve cover) This was NOT how the truck went to the installers. In the short of all this? I have to agree with you to just pull the engine and start from scratch, check and double check and just chalk this up to NOT doing my research when I needed a replacement engine. Could have done a LOT better myself for half the money I spent.
@@GeorgiaHyway yeah, it's a shame some folks don't take pride in their work. Sorry this was your experience. I hope the rebuild goes well for you! Also, just want to add that the factory oil pressure gauge is not accurate. It's more of a dummy guage and as long as you have 5-ish psi, it'll show as good. This is from the research I've done in the past.
@@davesgarage3227 I'll be replacing the oil pump with a quality Melling oil pump. I question EVERYTHING that Jasper provided and what that installer did. NEVER AGAIN!
@@davesgarage3227 yeah, the oil passages are very tight in this engine. 5w-20 isn't just a recommendation. My guess the previous owner had just been using "whateverwas on sale"w-"meh its oil", and may not have changed it regularly. I'm closing in on 250k miles on mine. very exciting! When I bought my truck new in 2003, I thought I was being kinda cheap buying the v6.. little did I know I was purchasing a legitamate high mileage hero!
Dave's Garage honestly I have the exact same truck just a 2006 5speed 4.2 and it’s got 5w20 on the cap but now I’m conflicted I’m not sure if I should put 5w20 or 5w30
And definitely run 5w-20. There's no good reason to deviate from manufacturers spec. I ran some thick lucas in my old car because they advertised it so well... But it made my car run slow and terrible gas mileage. So stick with manufacturers specifications. That's what I would do.
![Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bhIq9lsKvOU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Ford 4.2L V6 Hydrolock and IMRC fix [1080 HD]](/img/tr.png)
I haven't had this issue yet. But when I do, I'll refer back to this video. Excellent job! Thank you!
Thank you for the nice clear picture showing a comparison between the warn rocker and the new one.
These 4.2s last forever got 365000 miles on mine
Just had mine roll over to 300000
Have you seen any big problems come with the 300000 mark?, just used this video to fix the same ticking noise but other then that, it runs great
About to replace the hydraulic lifters or do a valve job or something lol...it's tapping at startup. It's a beast of an engine for a V6. 326,000 miles and it wants more! It needs a rear main seal at this point as well as an oil pan gasket. But it will pull a big Kubota tractor uphill.
Wow, 326K. It's been a good one 👍
it thanks you for regular oil changes and now repays you
337k miles now. Took it to Mississippi and Alabama this year.
Thank you. Been searching for the answer to this noise for years..
I'm doing this job today. Just finished the intake job.
yep...always check for clearance,and wear on any ford v6 since that is usually suspect when dealing with tapping noises from the valvetrain system...
I use to have an 01 v6 with the stick.... I traded it for an 02 truck that had a 5.4. Kind of regret it. After having that v8 the v6 looks soo much more easier to work on!
Daniel Hinkle That intake manifold from the v8 is killer. i got both 4.2 and 4.6 (which is the same as 5.4) on my trucks and i know what you mean.
Thanks so much . at the dealership they were talking about sending off and tearing apart and getting a lathe machine operator to replace the lifters . i could see the dollars flying appreciate the video !!
Your video is helpful I’m going to do mines myself since mechanics are saying it’s a pain to remove
What was wrong with yours, was it making a loud noise
Did you replace the valve cover gasket as well? I have the same issue of my truck making a ticking sound. Just can't pin point the issue without doing trial and error test. Lol! Here is what is happening, I'm going down the road and let off on the gas. When I let off I here a metallic ping tryed octane booster still didn't work so now my conclusion is that it's the valve lifters. So that being said I'm gonna try that. Thanks for posting something like this.
I'm having this same problem on my 07 f-150 v6. I hate tearing into engine. Thanks for the video.
I just did this on my truck. And it went really well. Just make sure to get a small torque wrench for the lifter bolts and for the valve cover bolts. A small torque wrench runs about 25 dollars at Orielys. This video helped a ton!!
@@joshuamoore1091 $10 on sale at harbor freight
good deal...I have the same truck and rebuilt the bottom half...as you know its better to replace both sides in the long run as it ends up being a power imbalance on the end.....nice job and good luck in the future..mine after 15000 still running smooth...did a jmod to the trans and ran it ..nice mod funny how a v6 can squeal 3 gears..lol but going to open the trans back up and change the plate and put the springs back in...only thing I am going to keep is the boar hole on the plate to engage reverse fast as that works great....also had a computer hooked to my trans to control the shifting but was hard on the truck....) peace
Great video, im new to this mechanic work stuff but how did you know it was just the rocker that was bad and not anything else like the lifter
What is the noise in the background at 8:08? Mine does the same thing.
Seems like cooling system engaged?
Mine rattles under startup or hard accel. After its warmed up. Same issue? 166k mi. Thank you!
Hey Dave! Your video is a life saver! Quick question. How’re you able to find the part at that price? I can’t find it cheaper than $38 a piece. I would really appreciate a response. Thanks!
Did have to tighten the rocker arm bolts in a specific order according to what position the cylinder was or can u just tighten it down to spec?
I did mine to 26 ft lbs and the cylinders stayed in place. It started right up.
Did you replace the valve cover gasket?
I did because mine were leaking.
Should I get new heads for mine? No noise, just want to port the heads out to see if I can get more air.
I have the same problem even before and after complete overhaul. How did you determine which rocker it is? If you can thanks for responding.
Looks like the pushrod end is worn right off. Good vid
What are the torque spec for the rocker arms
26ft lbs
Did it by chance shut up once it was running temp and closed the gap? Mine is doing this 😒
No. Mine got worse as the engine reached operating temperature. Changed the rockers and noise went away.
I wish my 02 f150 supercrew and my 05 lincoln town car had that 4.2 V6 instead of the 4.6 V8, because the central cam push rod engines werent all the trouble that the 4.0 and 4.6 and 5.4 have
Been having the same problem with my truck and i want to get it fixed before it gets worse. Does anyone know if theirs a kit out there with everything you need?
99 4.2 v6 bent rod won't pull out???
Hi! I have a vibrant sound like this 8:15 just in cold start, after a moment it disappear. Could you help me to know how to fit it? Thank you, Saludos from Monterrey Nuevo León.
@@davesgarage3227 how does one check the exhaust manifold? What if it's the exhaust gasket or the pipes running underneath. Can we pu to oil in the intake to see where the smoke blows out then patch with thermal clay? The video here he doesn't even say what the hell he replaced, what does a rocker arm even do or push rod whatever I got lot to learn.
So I don’t have a torque wrench how tight should I tighten the bolts on the valve cover just a little tighter than normal?
borrow one from autozone or something, this isn't something you should leave to chance
I’m having trouble finding parts for that same motor, where did you get parts?
I think I got them from advance auto parts. You can also try rockauto.
Does a bad lifter cause a knock basically?
Yeah, it can. My issue was wear on the rockers. I replaced the rockers and push rods to fix my noise issue.
My 07 has the same issue but I can’t find parts anywhere. Where did you order yours from?
I found part numbers on rock auto. I'm pretty sure I ordered from them.
Dave's Garage I’ll check there to see. But great video! This was very helpful!
Thank you! I appreciate that.
Hi Dave i have the same noise but i really think my problem are the lifters was it complicated to replace yours?
@@davesgarage3227 Would a bad or worn out spring inside my lifter cause my rocker arm to be loose cause the push rod in the rocker arm that is loose sits lower than the other push rods wich rocker arms are tight thanks Dave..
@@davesgarage3227 Makes alot of sense i bought one rocker arm kit and a push rod to try and see how it fits and am hoping that gets the job done..
@@davesgarage3227 so its not necessary to replace the valves if its ticking
@@davesgarage3227 thanks for the reply, so just replacing springs and push rod and rocker arm. Or only push rod if its bent
@@davesgarage3227 what creates the ticking noise
great video !!! are these engines valve slash adjustables or not. i cant find any info about it.
Thanks!! Unfortunately no, torque to spec only.
@@davesgarage3227 Thank you
Damn son!! Great video 🤘
Where did you order your parts? My knock is louder and I hear a part fumbling around inside once I start the vehicle. What do you suggest I do?
I ordered my parts from advance auto.
If you hear more than a inconsistent tap, I'd recommend you get a second opinion from someone local. Your issue might be different and you don't want to spend money on stuff you don't need.
Hope this helps!
@@davesgarage3227 My guess is that you have a cracked head around where the lifter sets in it’s hole and the lifter and rocker arm are both just floating around inside your valve cover. Happened recently to my 4.6 engine. They are similar. Happens sometimes do to overheating. Best of luck!
So you don’t have to set lash on a 4.2?
Yep, that's right. Torque to spec.
well im getting ready to do this to my truck still starts but once the knocking started i quit running it and it has 326,000 original miles on it i'm going to replace both sides with new rockers and push rods and doing a oil change with adding a new oil pickup this all started from me letting this sit for a few weeks with out driving it but started it like once a week and let it run for a little wish me luck this ole girl not ready for junk pile yet
Good luck! Hope it works out for you!
You're very inspirational. Thank you.
Hey Dave, GREAT video and now? to my story. My 1999 F150 went just a few feet shy of 300,000 miles. Replaced the engine with a Jasper reman and have been fighting problems ever since and the reman engine only has 13,000 miles on it now but? it's way past the 2 year warranty mark. I too had the same noise from the reman engine but? it was intermittent. Sometimes at start up? you never heard a thing, sometimes? it would tick for 15 - 30 seconds and quit, sometimes? it seems that the noise never went away. Jasper isn't going to do anything and the installer is a joke. I have the intake, upper and lower off, heads off and that's when I saw your video. I removed my rockers, the bolt and the pivot and compared mine to yours in your video and my rockers and pivot out of a 13,000 mile reman engine look as bad as yours from your 175,000 mile engine. I have barred the engine over several times trying to "feel" if there was any excess play in the bottom end / rotating assembly and feel nothing. Not sure if I should keep going, separate the transmission from the engine and check for a cracked flex plate? My last stage would be to pull the engine, put it on a stand and remove the oil pan and visually inspect the bottom end. I'm too far into this as far as money to give up now....was hoping I might get your thoughts, ideas, comments and suggestions as to how far I should go with this. The noise "seemed" like it came from the driver side valve cover area.....I'd just hate to go through all this to find out it was the bottom end. I will tell you and anyone else reading this.....I will NEVER deal/buy another Jasper engine product again.
Hey Hyway Harris. Thanks for the feedback. I'm sorry to hear about your experience and thanks for the detailed explanation. I'm not an expert, but lower end noise is consistent and persistent, so it would never go away. I don't think you have a rotating assembly problem. What concerns me is that you said your rocker arms are as worn as mine were, but with only 13k miles. I'm thinking oil starvation - could be the oil pump, could be blocked/clogged oil passages, could be a clogged pick up tube. But I'm leaning towards the oil pump or pickup tube because you said it was intermittent.
It sounds like your down to the short block and if it was mine, I'd pull it and put it on a stand.
@@davesgarage3227 Thanks Dave! What I am starting to believe is that the installer sold me a long block but? may have used the reman heads on something else or? just re-used my original heads. Oil pressure on the idiot gauge was always up where it should be however? I have NO actual numbers to give you as in PSI. Funny? the original engine never had any engine issues. When I got the truck back? the factory PCV tube on the right side was gone and the installer used vacuum hose. Also? the valve cover on the right side is patched with some type of epoxy (dented and cracked on the inside like something fell on the valve cover) This was NOT how the truck went to the installers. In the short of all this? I have to agree with you to just pull the engine and start from scratch, check and double check and just chalk this up to NOT doing my research when I needed a replacement engine. Could have done a LOT better myself for half the money I spent.
@@GeorgiaHyway yeah, it's a shame some folks don't take pride in their work. Sorry this was your experience. I hope the rebuild goes well for you!
Also, just want to add that the factory oil pressure gauge is not accurate. It's more of a dummy guage and as long as you have 5-ish psi, it'll show as good. This is from the research I've done in the past.
@@davesgarage3227 I'll be replacing the oil pump with a quality Melling oil pump. I question EVERYTHING that Jasper provided and what that installer did. NEVER AGAIN!
Was the noise on one bank only? Or did you do both sides before start up?
Yes, passenger side only. Never touched the other side.
@@davesgarage3227 what was the mileage when you had to do this fix?
Around 175k
Could you have just adjusted the rocker arms to fix it, rather than replacing?
hydraulic lifters, you cant
Good job ;) I have the same truck thanks for the video .
Nice. I just got that same issue forming on the the passenger side. I'll have to look into this. What oil are u running in the 4.2l v6?
@@davesgarage3227 that's awesome, glad to hear. Think I'll be doing mine here soon.
@@davesgarage3227 yeah, the oil passages are very tight in this engine. 5w-20 isn't just a recommendation. My guess the previous owner had just been using "whateverwas on sale"w-"meh its oil", and may not have changed it regularly.
I'm closing in on 250k miles on mine. very exciting!
When I bought my truck new in 2003, I thought I was being kinda cheap buying the v6.. little did I know I was purchasing a legitamate high mileage hero!
Dave's Garage honestly I have the exact same truck just a 2006 5speed 4.2 and it’s got 5w20 on the cap but now I’m conflicted I’m not sure if I should put 5w20 or 5w30
4.2 is one of Ford's most long lasting and reliable engines. Obviously, their a bit of high maintenance. But I've heard good things about the 4.2.
And definitely run 5w-20. There's no good reason to deviate from manufacturers spec.
I ran some thick lucas in my old car because they advertised it so well... But it made my car run slow and terrible gas mileage.
So stick with manufacturers specifications. That's what I would do.
you only did one side
Very informative video.
Thanks!
I meed fo on 98
F 150 4.2