Like a glove! THE best informative mechanical videos FOCUSING ON THE Ford 4.2 L v6 out there. Your experience shows through. I am not worthy. I've always been a fan of the 4.2 L V6 because of its durable OHV design. I couldn't stop watching this case study video. You could sell this to tradeschools across the nation. Thks
One of the best organized and presented videos I have seen. Your determination and attention to detail is unbelievable. I have a 2003 4.2 and hope most of the improvements have been made my engine so I won't be facing the problems you did.
I have a 2000 4.2 5 speed 4x4 220k miles I mud pull shit and it runs like a champ I have put 50k miles on it and it dont use oil it dont leak anything the only thing I had to fix was a starter that's it.. I think the 4.2 is way under rated. It's slow but still
In the 245k miles I have put on my 2003. I have only had to do two things. The slave cylinder on my mazda sourced 5 speed manual transmission is a weak point, and I had to replace the isolator bolts on the intake plenum. Oh, lets make that 2.5 things. While I was back there I replaced the plastic bushings on the IMRC arms. oh.. and some other non-engine related things.. Ford used sealed ball joints on the front end. replace them all! and buy the ones you can hit with a grease gun. Oh, and at 190k miles I replaced the clutch, probably before I needed to. The rear main seal was leaking some oil and staining my driveway. and It seems I have to recharge the AC every other year. no smoke, and no codes, she sailed through the last smog check she will ever have when I moved to Washington State. I'm a nats ass from 250k, and am aiming for 500k. past that? who knows? We will probably all have flying cars by then.
Good job. Very nice to see someone knowing what they are doing and doing it well. same engine problem in 98 E 150 now on my 3rd rebuilt engine. Wish I could have found you then.
Awesome video, thanks for posting! Lot's of probing work, but paid off. I have a 2006 F-150 with the 4.2 V6 with a bit over 182,000 miles and runs great. Very reliable engine.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! All the car guys in my circle kept telling me this swap wouldn't work...and I had my doubts...but seeing a good truck reborn and doing something that had never been done before was a way cool experience. Sharing it with the world is kinda like the icing on the cake! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Have a great day!
Have a 07 needing an engine, my takeaway from this is an engine 01-08 will be identical enough that will accept the intake & sensors from mine virtually 100% plug & play feel free to chime in if I missed anything
Your video helped me swap in a later 4.2! Nicely done and a very professional explanation (I'm an aircraft mechanic and machinist among other stuff and trained many techs). Subscribed! I used a new aftermarket Dorman lower intake which was properly machined and fit as it should. BTW in future you may prefer heat shrink tubing (cheap in bulk via Ebay) to tape. To separate stuck connections I spray the connector joints with Deoxit and they come apart more easily, then I spray the pins and sockets to protect them. I buy silicone dielectric grease (excludes moisture) and lube the inside of all my connectors with that. It's good for any threaded or other electrical connection to, and is also known as spark plug boot grease.
Just wanted to say thanks for the great research and sharing, I followed your advice and had my `98 4.2 replaced with a 2001 4.2 after the second over haul of the 98.Everything appears to be working fine. I recommend it anyone else needing engine upgrade.
Nice work. Any PCM recoding or replacing required? I have a 2001 4.2 XL with the 5 spd. Were some 2001 intakes different? I think it was a transition year. Need to check my VIN, not even sure it's the original motor.
Thanks for your question. There was no re-flash or reprogramming needed with the PCM. I'm still using the original PCM that came with my truck. A lower intake from a 2001 model year worked for me. Thanks for watching, hope you liked and subscribed!
Any input on the 2006 4.2 manual transmission f150 ...I'm looking to buy one but I had hear a lot of bad things about this engine.. and also some other guy Tell me everything was fine after 2004 with the 4.2 ..and he said the 4.2 with the manual transmission will run at least around 250k miles . any input will be highly appreciated. Thank you
My 1997 F150 4.2 L V6 had a check engine light in 2008 at 88000 miles. The Ford dealer replaced a bent valve and all engine gaskets. Then recently the engine had a check engine light, leaked coolant, hydro-locked and through a rod at 179,000 miles. Shouldn’t the repair in 2008 prevented a reoccurrence? I notice the 2005 intake manifold gasket also has one water port per side, although the surface area was reduced for more adhesive contact area. My local garage says the intake manifold gaskets were not properly bonded although they lasted 15 years and 90000 miles.
Someone gave me a rust free Supercab 98 XLT with a bad 4.2I I found its near impossible to find a running 97-98 4.2 anywhere. so after watching your video swapped a boneyard 05 into the 98 rwd 5 speed. No issues whatsoever. Swapped in a new aftermarket lower intake, water pump and cam synchronizer, rebuilt the injectors, now I have a new truck! Folks need to realize, though, the 05 takes almost 7 quarts of oil vs. 5 in the 97-98....
does the lower intake have to be from a 2001 4.2? is there any other year and model vehicle that this will work? i have a 4.2 2006 engine and im doing this swap but im having a hard time finding a lower intake manifold from a 2001 model. are the 3.8l v6 engines the same lower intake if they are year 2001?
wow... thanks for the quick response, We are hyped about the swap, We usually fix VW's at our home shop, and this will be a new adventure, the truck only has 82,000 and I hate to get rid of it.
+SlickRidez Garage I had a VW shop here in town (Baltimore) back in the 70's 80's and early 90's and now just do it at home, air and water cooled. My 97 was the first truck I ever bought new, I liked the new body style back then. Your video will help prolong its life with us.
really cool you noted all teh changed over the years. super useful info. im keeping my 03 f150 4.2 with 200k miles on it. still runs good enough i just need to swap the bed for one with no rust on it as mine is getting ugly
I built many trucks for resale at a used car lot. An easy way to replace your bed is to remove all the bed bolts (Ford uses TORX PLUS which are NOT ordinary Torx heads), hit the threads with anti-seize, then reinstall the bed using two bolts. Drive to the location of your new bed, swap beds, done. That lets you have rear turn signals when driving to get your replacement bed. Don't forget to unbolt the filler neck and disconnect the wiring when you pull the old bed. I use dielectric grease on the connectors (any auto store carries it) to exclude moisture. If your bolt heads are rusty and strip, you can weld a large hex nut to the heads then unscrew them that way.
This diagnostic was like an autopsy.....the procedure almost went backwards since it didn't run. I'm just curious, had you ever heard of this swap while in the dealer/manufacturer environment? Thanks for your valuable comments, I appreciate it!
My first vehicle was a 2006 F150 XL singlecab 8ft bed. Had the 4.2L. My grandfather handed me the vehicle in June of 2015 and it had 192k on the odometer. Had it until October 24th 2016 at 202k when transmission slipped out of gear and was really worn out. was basically 90% city with weight and 10% highway. It was a company truck my grandfather owned but I appreciated the truck.
@@SlickRidezGarage It's a great truck for easy work for sure. Can't believe I commented 3 years because I still talk about my old '06 to this day. 2 years ago my grandfather gave me the $1 bill I gave him for the bill of sale and he laminated it. Still has a special place in heart lol.
Ford fell behind the curve in the late 70's with their 6 cylinder line up, in that they only had inline 6'es. As vehicle sizes were shrinking to meet new Federal guidelines Ford basically copied the Buick 231 V6 starting in the late 70's. This copy was a 3.8 liter V6 but when they put it in the early Fox body Mustangs they called it a 4.2 as a means to cover that fact up. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@@SlickRidezGarage this might have answered my question about the 3.8l v6 lower intake from a 2001 fitting the a 97 and making this conversion possible. but i do want to still confirm please.
I hope you are doing well these days, I have read through every single comment and reply and i belive i found a similar answer to my questions before. i will need a 2001-2004 lower intake no matter what. however since the 3.8 is a 4.2 im wondering about the lower intake off of any 2001-2004 3.8 v6 like from a mustang or econoline van. being the upper intake is different in design on these years the lower intake should all be identical? thank you for your video i do hope to hear you are doing well.
Hello, and thanks for your question. I would use the intake from a 2001-2003 F150 4.2 liter or the intake from a 2004 F150 HERITAGE, not the next body style of F150. The F150 heritage model is the same body as the 1997-2003 F150. Hope this answers your question. I am doing much better after my strokes, and the tumor turned out to be brain damage from the stroke, not cancer. Thanks for watching and have a good one.
Mr need to replace engine in 1998 Ford F-150, how do I know what other Ford F-150 model or year the engine will be compatible with any problems i hard until 2002 can anyone help ??? Thanks
Awesome job, I normally just grab a old 3.8 from a Thunderbird or something slap the Dual Port heads on it and updated crank sensor and call it done everything works as it should, the 3.8 runs amazing with the dual-port heads from the 4.2
For sure the best 4.2 out . I have a question. I am thinking of a repower on my 98 super hi mileage truck. Still runs well but have 2 cars coming up to auction near me. One is a 80k mi 2000 with a 4/200 build date and the other is a 82k 2004 heritage with a 2/2004 build date. My plan is to swap engine and trans to get the benefit of both. I am sure I need to swap the harness as well. I wonder what motor is nest. I read the gaskets were re done in 99 so are the two motors the same. The intake looks different but doesn't seem like the 2 are any different according to Wikipedia Essex page. Thanks in advance for any help
+Andres Rivas Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! I can't say whether or not it would work in similar fashion to this swap and would have to research your question to answer it. Have you tried any searches on the subject?
+SlickRidez Garage Hey thanks for the reply! Yes I did find one f150 forum that says it is possible to put an 07 4.6 into my truck I could send you the link if you'd like.
Amazing video with invaluable information. Question, I have a 97 model 4x4 with a blown motor. I am currently looking around for an 2005 engine and I know the 2005-2008 are almost identical. I was just wondering if there would be any additional issues with installing one from an 08 if there happens to be one at a great price or if I should just stick with 05 for simplicity's sake. Thank you for your expertise.
Thanks for the video...your giving me hope! I'm trying to do the same. Could you have just gotten a 2008 intake manifold upper instead of getting the 2003 intake manifold lower to match the 97 upper manifold? Or would that mean more changes?
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The later manifold is plastic and of a completely different design. Have a look at the video from 6:24 to 6:40. The black plastic thing on top is the upper intake for the 05-08. To use the late upper intake would mean swapping in the entire 2005-8 setup, and that's not very feasible. What year F150 are you thinking of swapping it in to? 2 or 4WD?
I've got a blown 98 and would like the better engine(05-08) like you. I also have a new tranny but it fits the newer starter bell housing pattern which I think started in 99 so that may be another issue. Could you elaborate on not feasible? Cause I'd rather not worry about tracking down a 2001 intake manifold? Thanks a lot for all your help!
The entire control system would have to be swapped over and the late to early transmission electronics will be incompatible. The 2001 lower intake is what you would need. Your upper intake will be re-used with the 01-04 engine. The lower intake should be available at nearly every wrecking yard near you, they are very common. It's way easier to swap in the manifold then swap a late model control system in. I think what you mean on the bell housing bolt pattern is you have a V8 transmission which has 3 starter bolts instead of two? Glad to help, sorry about the late reply just got done driving 642 miles.
Ok thanks, I'm gonna go for it and I'll just swap the 01 lower intake. Thanks for putting up the video and doing the legwork otherwise I'd have put in another problem child engine.
What accerie brackets did you use the 05 or 97's and what about the crank pully did you have to change that or use the 05's and i have a 1997 4x4 that I'm planing on doing this swap it has a auto trans witch flexplate did you use
your video is right on time as my 97 5 spd 4.2 is dead. I bought a 2001 4.2 from a automatic van and plant the swap during the Easter break. any suggestions or problem I may run into?
+allboydogs Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The swap should be very close to the same. Be careful if you have to pull the timing cover, they are easily broken. It's also a good idea while it's out to replace the clutch slave cylinder (internally mounted in the bell housing). I replace my clutch slaves with a replacement unit from Ford since aftermarket slave cylinders have a higher chance of failure and I don't want to have to remove the trans again after the job is completed. The top 2 bell housing bolts are a pain (esp. on the 4X4) and expect the exhaust manifolds to be rusted beyond re-use. Gimme a shout if you have other questions!
+mark stansbury I'm happy to say that my truck is running great with the van engine, I saved a TON of money doing it myself, this video was truly an inspiration
So as of the 01 to 08 engines what would need to be swapped over from the 01. I’m looking to make a swap but wanna be sure of what is gonna be swapped if any.
434k....impressive! A chirp in the front of the engine that goes away when hot is a early symptom associated with a failing cam sync. Then again it may be a belt, pulley/idler pulley or water pump too. That's kinda vague and maybe not so helpful, neither is the location of that thing! It's hard to reach with an automotive stethoscope but if you have access to one and can give it a listen when cold I'd think real hard about doing that, or having a shop do it, just in case? Thank you for watching!
I finally got a check engine light on my 176k 1998...__PO153, Is this possibly oxy sensor on these? You are no doubt the authority on these motors and look forward to your thoughts. Car runs well......reset code...hasn't come back in 100 miles. ..a bit of rough idle at idle but not much. Thanks in advance.
I’m having a heck of time trying to connect the engine to the transmission,did you take the engine mounts off? I did aligned the clutch where the alignment tool slide on and off with no drag,did you took off the exhaust manifolds?
I'm in the process of doing this now with my F-150. I had a heck of a time wiggling and positioning the engine but it slid in with the exhaust manifolds on and the motor mounts in place. It probably took me two hours to get it in position though I was doing it by myself.
I make alignment dowels from bolts about 3" long by cutting off the heads and grinding flats so I can use a small wrench to remove them. I screw them into the engine block then they are the first thing the transmission engages during an installation. After the bellhousing touches the block I install two of the stock bolts and remove my dowels. It's a very old trick. I do take the mounts off the engine and remove the manifolds since I replace the studs and hit the threads with anti-seize when the engine is out of the truck. I anti-seize all my exhaust components and have pulled parts I installed thirty years ago on other trucks without fuss.
The 01-04 is not a direct swap for the 05-08, but the long block is essentially the same and your knock sensor won't have to be re-located. Your plenum, intake, accessories and possibly the oil pan will need to go on the 05-08 engine for it to work.
With a short list like that.....no, as long as the engine runs OK, has good oil pressure and doesn't knock/rattle/overheat. I'd look for a "Problem Solver" gasket set for the lower intake. If the pan physically leaks oil and it's not just expected weepage I'd replace that too. Pan "gasket" is one piece between the rear main bearing cap and oil pan. The rest is RTV gasket sealer. I used "Ultra Black" on mine.
Right now it's running lean and I can hear air rushing in from the driver's side manifold. I've heard it's hard to take off the oil pan in the 2wd is it hard in the 4x4 too? Thank you for all your help!
On the 4X4 one has to pull the front axle to get to the pan. This gives lots of room to get it out. The cross member in the 2wd can't be removed and that makes it a pain. Have you tried to locate where the rushing air is coming from?
lots of good info, im gonna do a 4.2 twin turbo build for my f150, at some point in my life. is it true the 4.2 is almost the same motor as the grand national? oil filter housing location and pump is the same...
Did you do the engine swap? I have a 1997 Lobo (F250 light duty ) and am looking to do an engine swap. I have the 4.8 liter V8 and am looking for a more reliable engine.
may have been said oil pans are different because yours is a 4x4...also...depending on build date oil pans changed late 97...ad the 05 engine was in the new body...and they didnt make a 4wd 4.2 in that body style.
Thanks for watching the video! If they are both V6'es, according to the information I have the 1999 and 2000 engines are a direct swap, save for perhaps some differences in accessories. You will not need the XLT's wiring harness. Have a good one!
I want to know more about this knock sensor. Is this one the same as the 2007? I believe mine is going out. I get an AWFUL lot of pining while accelerating particularly on the highway or interstate if I start to go up a hill. New plugs, new wires. Tried sea foam, new air and oil filter. my ECM isn't throwing a code but codes only get thrown if a sensor says hey, this is a problem adjust, computer adjusts and 1 has adverse effect or 2 reaches its limit. I can see where a sensor can totally be bad, give a signal and the computer run with what it knows and an engine not work right. So, is this the same knock sensor as the 2007? is it decently accessable without engine removal?
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The 1997 and 2007 sensors are different. The knock sensor contains a piezioelectric element. It is tuned to vibrate when pinging occurs. This creates a small voltage that when seen by the engine computer retards the timing and stops the ping. The knock sensor might be bad, but it also could be from lean mixture or a whole other host of things. I might be able to help you better if you can tell me what year F150 you're working on?
I have the 2007. I see where you put an 05 in your 1997 and I saw this was one of the differences. The 05 and 07 are same part so I assume 07 the sensor will be on the left cylinder head towards the firewall. What I have done so far is new plugs and wires sea foam 2x new air filter new fuel filter things to try still maybe knock sensor clean MAF sensor higher octane gas (I hope not)
9:49-10:52 of your video you not effectively have a 2005 knock sensor which is why I asked. The 2007 is the same sensor and I can only assume in the same location as the 2005 which actually changed starting in 1999.
Okay yes the KS is on the left head then. Its not impossible to get to but its not in a real great spot either. I've never done one on the 05up (plenty tho on the early 96-98) but engine removal shouldn't be needed. Poor driveability from poor sensor signals leading to other sensors flaking out is unlikely because the sensor sending a bad signal usually gets flagged (with a code) and ignored. No code + no PENDING code usually means sensors are all operating within their normal parameters, so have you by chance checked for pending codes too? 99% of the time when no pending or present codes are present there's something else going on the computer can't see. Tell me about the symptoms. Is pinging the only problem presenting? Usually I hear that along with sluggush, hard to start, poor acceleration....things like that.
starts fine runs fine, when cruising on the interstate or highway if I put it under a heavier load, IE climb a hill it pings all the way up the hill until I let off the accelerator. That is when it is most present, most pronounced and most likely to happen. It happens while driving in town too usually accelerating but not from a stop and usually not until At least 3rd if not 4th 5th gear.
Very interesting video. I picked up a cheap loaded 98 xlt f150 shortbox 2wd with 176k miles. It runs well but at times a bit tough to start. I am considering your swap. I have sourced several motors at wrecking yards with 9k...15k and 27k miles. They range from 700-1000 in price. Really low mile motors. Picked the truck up under 1k so could be a really low dough project. May have the trany rebuilt at the same time. Trying to decide if I run it into the ground or rebuild it. How tough was the r/r the motor? Any tough issues?
Thanks for watching the video! If the current engine runs well, doesn't burn oil or leak/cross leak fluids I would diagnose the occasional delayed start first. Could be as simple as dirty battery terminals or a vacuum leak at the reservoir tank under the right front fender, they are known to crack. A hiss at the right front fender with the throttle closed is a dead giveaway. I tend to gravitate towards vacuum leaks on this era of Fords, especially with 176K That can be a prime time for intake gasket issues if they've never been replaced. Is the check engine light on with codes stored? You'll have it better than I on a swap....the 4X4 makes the top bell housing bolts a serious pain to get to. I almost started using curse words again! lol I had to install the flex plate after getting the engine down in the compartment.....with it installed there wasn't enough clearance from the wiper module to the top of the radiator support to get it in there. This is a challenging swap.....so bring your patience and experience!
SRG thanks for the reply. You sound like an authority on these motors and your input is really appreciated. My truck actually runs really well///.hard start was just a poor battery. No check engine lights. I was just considering a full rebuild restoration motor- tranny- paint since it was getting up on mileage. My truck has all options power everything and it all works. I saw the 176k and was not sure of the longevity of the motor and a local search has uncovered some really low mi motors. No sense in changing it if these can rattle off 250 k but from what I have read they..(97-98 ) are trouble prone. I have no clue about if the intake gaskets have been done. It does leak some oil at rear of oil pan and I see some leaking valve cover gaskets. Do you know of an area where these are common leakers and is this a reasonable task on these? Thanks?
This knowledge comes from experience. If I were trying to extend the engine's life I would likely re-gasket the entire engine with "Problem Solver" gaskets wherever needed/available. They are a similar but much improved aftermarket design that are far less susceptible to fail in this application. The next killer is the Camshaft Synchronizer. They are known to seize up and that will stop the oil pump....while the engine continues to run.....until you turn the key off. That's the warning chirp-chirp-chirp I was speaking of that sounds like a squeaky belt. Re-gasketing the engine should be done by those with experience and patience, enough not to rush the job. The exhaust manifolds are likely rusted out and this can be a serious pain to deal with. The timing cover is known to stick to the block and it is fragile, easily cracked. Coolant bypassing in to the timing cover bolt holes can make fasteners a real joy fest to deal with. You may want to make an appointment for confession at your Church a couple weeks in advance of the job....because even good folks can be put past what they can take! lol just kidding but seriously...it's a challenging job that will try you. Sorry I didn't answer this any sooner, I felt a lot like dog dunny all weekend.
You knowledge on this is very valuable. To update my 1998 (built 12/97) 175k mi truck does run well. No check engine lights but my concern on start up is it stumbles for a few moments then runs clean. I wonder if I am at the early stages of the intake gasket leak of just may need a tune.? It always starts pretty easy and the stumble is just light....a hic up of sorts that cleans out. You mentioned re-gasket I wonder if you meant head gaskets also..I def dont want to get into that. I would re-motor first.
Leaking intake gaskets are usually accompanied by a higher than normal idle or slight misfire (sometimes very slight) when hot. When is the last time it had a new fuel filter installed?
Awesome video. I also like to do engine swaps and customizations. I also live in Springfield Missouri which it sounds like is where you're at also. I've watched several of your videos recently and never caught that. 👍
So, I don't have the space, tools or time to swap a engine. I have a '01 4.2 that sounds like a lifter or valve is bad. I ran some amsoil engine cleaner through it. Most of the "knock" disappeared but you get the rpms up around 2000 it comes back. Though it is not burning coolant, I need ALL new seals and that's going to cost about a third of a new engine. What is your opinion on a NEW factory, not rebuilt, engine? Would Ford fix all the known issues with a NEW engine? I know this is a long post. But, you are the first I have come across that sounds like you know what you're doing. Thanks in advance.
To the best of my knowledge Ford doesn't offer a new engine for that truck. I believe they are all outsourced rebuilt units from Jasper/SRC (Springfield Remanufacturing Company) and the like. Ford just sells them through their parts department as units that are "remanufactured for Ford" like the one I removed from my truck The 2001's are better than the 1997's gasket wise so if you get a replacement engine at least the gaskets, seals and camshaft synchronizer benefited from a later re-design. The symptoms you describe to me (lifter knock that comes back at higher RPM) may indicate the oil pick-up tube is stopping up. If the rattles get worse and/or spread through the rest of the lifter/valve train at sustained higher RPM's then I'd be checking the pick-up tube. This is why I never use an engine flush solvent. It can flush debris/oil gel down in to the pan and clog/restrict the oil pick-up. Have you owned the truck for a while or is it a recent purchase?
Hey man I have a 03 4.2 everything is stock can I boost it in any way or ad hp without changing much if so what or the best way of going about this. thank you
I've never looked in to it, and I haven't heard of many power adders available for this engine. The 4.2 is a near identical copy of the GM 3.8 V6, but not close enough for any Buick GNx goodies to work on it......darn......how cool would that be.......an intercooled turbo F150? Your question didn't link to my email or I'da jumped in here sooner. Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage!
The 4.2 is the exact same block as the 3.8l Mustang/Thunderbird engines, different crank and longer piston rods from my understanding, i would like to find a 3.8 from a Thunderbird Supercoupe and do a block swap (SC had a higher carbon content) and push the ole 98 f150 with a 4.2l supercharged!
What are your thoughts on a 2002 4.2/ I have a chance to purchase with very low miles..52k......I see they did not get the last gasket change in until 2004. Thanks in advance
No I found a complete truck...mint shape for pretty cheap. Its a bare bones model but well kept. 52k on the odo 2002. ..2500 bucks salvage title was hit in the rear and bed replaced. Have before and after pics
I have a 2001 with 350,000 and it is in need of a new engine. It has started burning oil and has several oil leaks. I think I need you to fix mine. Good video some very good information thanks.
Hey Slick, currently dropping an 03 or 04 engine into 98, no need to swap int. manifold, but it does have knock and temp sensor on the back of the left head, i could really use some input on rearranging wires in order to accomplish what you've done there!
Joe Lewis hi I see you have the same problem I have i got a 97 f150 and I found 2006 engine did you find out solutions for the wire connection on knock and temperature sensor?
@@rafaelrojas5800 on both i extended the wiring from original points and connected newer sensors(solder those wires) because i kept the whole 03 intake plenum. If you're using the 97 plenum and lower intake then you won't move the temp sensor right by the thermostat. You can simply extend the knock sensor wiring and route it up over the driver's side of the fuel rail to the back of that cylinder head.
In the late 70's Ford copied the GM 3.8 V6 for use in their vehicles and called it a 4.2. Ford originally planned to use the inline 6'es up to the mid 80's but when government mandates changed it left them behind the curve so to catch up they straight up ganked the GM design.
Thanks for commenting! Do you mean the intake from the 2005-2008 engine? There's a pic of it next to the original 1997 intake at 7:32 and it's way different. If you have questions I'll be in here a bit later. Have a good one!
Yes, you will need to attach your vacuum dashpots (actuators) at the rear of the intake for the IMRC system. Is a good idea to vacuum test them as the diaphragm inside is known to rupture and affect the system's performance. The plastic retainer clips at the actuator shaft should also be replaced. Don't forget to check the water outlet tubes for rust holes and the EGR passages for excessive/restrictive carbon build up or you might get an EGR flow code. Best wishes for your project!
THANK YOU for 2000 views and 15 thumbs up! Season two of SlickRidez Garage will feature some pretty cool upgrades to the shop truck, all in motion picture format and HD with sound and lighting upgrades so I invite you to subscribe for future updates!
What is your cleaning process for the engine that would make a great video if possible man. Great video too though interesting you learn something new everyday
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! Eventually I'll make a video of the entire "Extreme Detail Process" available for purchase on a website to help generate some revenue for the channel!
Production for season two is underway and I'm booked solid until November with that. The most likely release date for the Extreme Detail Process tm video is late spring/early summer 2017. You can subscribe for updates and a pre-release notification!
Thanks for watching and for your question. The 4.2 is an Essex family engine and the 4.0 OHV is a Cologne family. They aren't related. Between them I prefer the later 4.2 but both have their own sets of pattern issues. Are you comparing a Ranger to an F150 for a specific purpose? The 4.0 is also related to the Taurus/Sable 3.0 OHV.
Currently in the search for a possible V8 swap or more powerfull V6. the newer engines have much bigger heads and take quite a bit more room in the engine bay. Looking at even an LS since there so compact.
There's no replacement for displacement, so if it were me I'd go the V8. I think with either a Ford or GM platform your going to need a shoe horn to get it in there. What year is the Ranger?
If it were me I'd keep it Ford based, but I'm not sure it would make too much difference. By the time a V8 swap with any brand concludes most if not all of it would be new or different anyhow. Hope your thinking of video-ing that.....which would be cool! Good luck with the swap!
Wow a 60 dollar part caused all that, I got the 3.0 an I changed the cam shaft sco out like 3 years ago, i think ima change mine out in the morning just because of this video
You seem like a good person to ask. I have an 02 F150 4.2 4x4 with a failing oil pan gasket. Is it possible to replace this gasket without pulling the engine? The engine has 180,000 miles on it and runs like a bear. I'd like to not have to yank out the engine just to replace the gasket. Another time they have me asking, "Why did the engineers do this to me?"
Thanks for watching! The oil pan gasket can be replaced without pulling the engine once the front axle/differential assembly is removed. The inner CV joints can be unbolted from the axle output flanges and moved out of the way without disassembling the suspension. Match mark the CV joint housings/axle flanges. After that it's pretty much unbolt the driveshaft, detach electrical/vacuum connections, place a suitable lowering device under the front axle, unbolt the mounts, lower it and roll it away. With it gone access to the pan is real good. Be careful to follow the gasket install instructions carefully especially with the amount and location of RTV gasket sealer. Use a torque wrench when tightening fasteners. If you have other questions I'll try to help! Thanks for commenting and have a good one!
Slick Ridez Garage Ok, thanks. Do you have any suggestions on where to start looking for the cause of a chattering noise? It only happens on acceleration or while the automatic transmission is shifting gears. I've been searching UA-cam for something similar but only finding valve taps and rod knocks. No loss of power either.
Slick Ridez Garage hey i have a 1999 f150 single cab short bed v6 i think the enginr is toast no crank and no start. You think swapping in a 3.8 would be ok?
I've heard of people swapping in a RWD 3.8 in..... they're basically the same. I'm not sure of what year will work but there should be plenty of answers in the land of Google! Thanks for your question and for watching the video!
i have an 01 f 150 with the 4.2... you said it was named most reliable truck every built. where did you hear that. my truck is for sure awesome i also bought a 2016 f 150 because if how reliable ford is but id like to show my friends or what ever
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The 2005 Ford F150 4.2 V6 automatic was named the most reliable truck ever built. I believe it was a JD Power survey or similar. They still had a ways to go in 01, but Ford released several improvements to the 4.2 in 01 which made them way more reliable than the 97-00 trucks.
This engine lasted over 15 years of torture before it died,Most engined now don't last 7 years.The way I see it,you could of just rebuilt your stock engine,and your good for over 15 yrs.
2005 and newer 4.2 into heritage 97 to 2003/early 2004.. body style only issue i ran into is i had to extend the wiring for the cylinder head temp sensor, do not use butt crimp connectors on any sensor wiring/// solder and heat shrink any under hood wires/wiring.. salvage yards will say no go just like putting a 3.0 vulcan tarurus/sable engine into a ranger hell yes it will work done many. retired ford tech.
Hey so, is that the sensor on the lower left side diagonally located from the knock sensor? Donor engine is 03, I was gonna swap in my 98 water pump tubing outlet (top of water pump) and relocate sensor to the pcv valve heater outlet, which would move that rubber hose to the water pump tubing i mentioned. Also i do not seem to have any wiring anywhere on this old engine for the old coolant plug knock sensor! Which puts me on the spot to wire up that knock sensor... HELP!
If it helps, 98 f150xl someone did a motor swap supposedly, but i have Mexico emissions fuel injectors far as i can tell... i'm starting to get scared of this harness! All that aside, swapping in an 03 and could use someone to bounce a few questions off, may go to local u pull for a wiring harness if i can't figure this out...
I'm not sure if the deeper oil pan on the 05-08 would clear the cross member on a 'stang......but the OHV 3.8 and 4.2 are the same engine family. Thanks for watching and commenting, please subscribe and let me know what you think of my videos! Have a good one!
Got it! Thank you so much for that info. I will be going to pick n pull soon to get that engine, rebuild it and throw it in my Stang. I hear those engines are stronger than the 3.8 I have. These v6's are too heavy for this engine. Great video, keep them coming!
Like a glove! THE best informative mechanical videos FOCUSING ON THE Ford 4.2 L v6 out there. Your experience shows through. I am not worthy. I've always been a fan of the 4.2 L V6 because of its durable OHV design. I couldn't stop watching this case study video. You could sell this to tradeschools across the nation. Thks
Excellent breakdown of how to make solid mechanical choices.
This is an excellent comment, thank you! I only wish I were able to reply sooner.
One of the best organized and presented videos I have seen. Your determination and attention to detail is unbelievable. I have a 2003 4.2 and hope most of the improvements have been made my engine so I won't be facing the problems you did.
Thank you very much! By '03 the 4.2 was pretty close to being straightened out and yours has way better gaskets/seals than the early 97's for sure!
I also have a 2003 4.2, 226k miles and she is a hero still
My 97 f150 with the 4.2 went 224,000 miles before i sold it
I have a 2000 4.2 5 speed 4x4 220k miles I mud pull shit and it runs like a champ I have put 50k miles on it and it dont use oil it dont leak anything the only thing I had to fix was a starter that's it.. I think the 4.2 is way under rated. It's slow but still
In the 245k miles I have put on my 2003. I have only had to do two things. The slave cylinder on my mazda sourced 5 speed manual transmission is a weak point, and I had to replace the isolator bolts on the intake plenum. Oh, lets make that 2.5 things. While I was back there I replaced the plastic bushings on the IMRC arms.
oh.. and some other non-engine related things.. Ford used sealed ball joints on the front end. replace them all! and buy the ones you can hit with a grease gun. Oh, and at 190k miles I replaced the clutch, probably before I needed to. The rear main seal was leaking some oil and staining my driveway.
and It seems I have to recharge the AC every other year.
no smoke, and no codes, she sailed through the last smog check she will ever have when I moved to Washington State.
I'm a nats ass from 250k, and am aiming for 500k. past that? who knows? We will probably all have flying cars by then.
Thanks again the 2001 E350 4.2 was an easy swap into our 1997 F150, you sure know your stuff
+allboydogs That's excellent, and thanks very much! I appreciate you letting folks here know how your swap turned out!
Good job. Very nice to see someone knowing what they are doing and doing it well. same engine problem in 98 E 150 now on my 3rd rebuilt engine. Wish I could have found you then.
Thank you! I wish I'da got the truck sooner!
Awesome video, thanks for posting! Lot's of probing work, but paid off. I have a 2006 F-150 with the 4.2 V6 with a bit over 182,000 miles and runs great. Very reliable engine.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! All the car guys in my circle kept telling me this swap wouldn't work...and I had my doubts...but seeing a good truck reborn and doing something that had never been done before was a way cool experience. Sharing it with the world is kinda like the icing on the cake! Thanks for taking the time to comment! Have a great day!
Solid Gold I’ve tumbled upon. Great Video.
Thank you and I appreciate it!
Have a 07 needing an engine, my takeaway from this is an engine 01-08 will be identical enough that will accept the intake & sensors from mine virtually 100% plug & play feel free to chime in if I missed anything
Thanks for your question. If I were doing it I would stay with the 2005-2008 engine
@@SlickRidezGarage taking the safest route got it
I like how you stepped through the problem, options, and did the work to share with the rest of us. Thanks
Thank you for watching and commenting! Have a good one!
Your video helped me swap in a later 4.2! Nicely done and a very professional explanation (I'm an aircraft mechanic and machinist among other stuff and trained many techs). Subscribed! I used a new aftermarket Dorman lower intake which was properly machined and fit as it should. BTW in future you may prefer heat shrink tubing (cheap in bulk via Ebay) to tape. To separate stuck connections I spray the connector joints with Deoxit and they come apart more easily, then I spray the pins and sockets to protect them. I buy silicone dielectric grease (excludes moisture) and lube the inside of all my connectors with that. It's good for any threaded or other electrical connection to, and is also known as spark plug boot grease.
Thanks for watching and for your suggestions, I should have used heat shrink tubing.
Thanks to you, both!
Just wanted to say thanks for the great research and sharing, I followed your advice and had my `98 4.2 replaced with a 2001 4.2 after the second over haul of the 98.Everything appears to be working fine. I recommend it anyone else needing engine upgrade.
Thanks for the feedback and for watching the video! I'm glad the swap went well for you!
Damn what an intricate process for something so mundane as a daily driver v6 :)
It's not particularly intricate, just a matter of doing it right the first time.
It's all about economy. Mundane economy!
Nice work. Any PCM recoding or replacing required? I have a 2001 4.2 XL with the 5 spd. Were some 2001 intakes different? I think it was a transition year. Need to check my VIN, not even sure it's the original motor.
Thanks for your question. There was no re-flash or reprogramming needed with the PCM. I'm still using the original PCM that came with my truck. A lower intake from a 2001 model year worked for me. Thanks for watching, hope you liked and subscribed!
Very clear and super technical important information for my brother’s project! Thank you for this video!
i have a 97 first generation f150 w/4.2. Changed engine one time back in 07? still runs like a champ. Great engine!
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage!
Any input on the 2006 4.2 manual transmission f150 ...I'm looking to buy one but I had hear a lot of bad things about this engine.. and also some other guy Tell me everything was fine after 2004 with the 4.2 ..and he said the 4.2 with the manual transmission will run at least around 250k miles . any input will be highly appreciated. Thank you
I have 2008 4.2 5 speed reg cab full size bed with 260,000 and I e been hard on her the last 60
@@diffybraap9242 thank you for the reply..by any chance do you know something about the timing chain cover gasket?
Only replaced alternator on the engine and plugs an xss. Wires
My 1997 F150 4.2 L V6 had a check engine light in 2008 at 88000 miles. The Ford dealer replaced a bent valve and all engine gaskets. Then recently the engine had a check engine light, leaked coolant, hydro-locked and through a rod at 179,000 miles. Shouldn’t the repair in 2008 prevented a reoccurrence? I notice the 2005 intake manifold gasket also has one water port per side, although the surface area was reduced for more adhesive contact area. My local garage says the intake manifold gaskets were not properly bonded although they lasted 15 years and 90000 miles.
Someone gave me a rust free Supercab 98 XLT with a bad 4.2I I found its near impossible to find a running 97-98 4.2 anywhere. so after watching your video swapped a boneyard 05 into the 98 rwd 5 speed. No issues whatsoever. Swapped in a new aftermarket lower intake, water pump and cam synchronizer, rebuilt the injectors, now I have a new truck! Folks need to realize, though, the 05 takes almost 7 quarts of oil vs. 5 in the 97-98....
There's nothing better than a rust-free and free truck! Congrats and good job!
does the lower intake have to be from a 2001 4.2? is there any other year and model vehicle that this will work? i have a 4.2 2006 engine and im doing this swap but im having a hard time finding a lower intake manifold from a 2001 model. are the 3.8l v6 engines the same lower intake if they are year 2001?
What fuel rail did you use? And what injectors? I’m doing the same install 2008 in a 1999 I would like to use my 99 fuel rail if possible. Thanks
Use the 1999 rail and injectors. Thanks for watching!
@@SlickRidezGarage thank you very much
wow... thanks for the quick response, We are hyped about the swap, We usually fix VW's at our home shop, and this will be a new adventure, the truck only has 82,000 and I hate to get rid of it.
+allboydogs Right on! Wish my old shop truck was a low miler like that! VW's....air or liquid cooled?
+SlickRidez Garage I had a VW shop here in town (Baltimore) back in the 70's 80's and early 90's and now just do it at home, air and water cooled. My 97 was the first truck I ever bought new, I liked the new body style back then. Your video will help prolong its life with us.
really cool you noted all teh changed over the years. super useful info. im keeping my 03 f150 4.2 with 200k miles on it. still runs good enough i just need to swap the bed for one with no rust on it as mine is getting ugly
I built many trucks for resale at a used car lot. An easy way to replace your bed is to remove all the bed bolts (Ford uses TORX PLUS which are NOT ordinary Torx heads), hit the threads with anti-seize, then reinstall the bed using two bolts. Drive to the location of your new bed, swap beds, done. That lets you have rear turn signals when driving to get your replacement bed. Don't forget to unbolt the filler neck and disconnect the wiring when you pull the old bed. I use dielectric grease on the connectors (any auto store carries it) to exclude moisture. If your bolt heads are rusty and strip, you can weld a large hex nut to the heads then unscrew them that way.
I'm in the process of swapping my bed right now. I'll get it done if I can keep myself out of the hospital! Thanks!
That was really interesting and well done!
Do you still have the 05 to 09 lower intake manifold if so I need it
Not anymore, it was scrapped long ago.
Good, detailed video.
Thank you!
SlickRidez Garage I was a Ford Working Shop Foreman. Good detail. good diagnostic routines.
This diagnostic was like an autopsy.....the procedure almost went backwards since it didn't run. I'm just curious, had you ever heard of this swap while in the dealer/manufacturer environment? Thanks for your valuable comments, I appreciate it!
Could I swap a 98 4.2L, directly to a 95 with the 4.9L without a lot of hassle?
Honestly I don't know.
My first vehicle was a 2006 F150 XL singlecab 8ft bed. Had the 4.2L. My grandfather handed me the vehicle in June of 2015 and it had 192k on the odometer. Had it until October 24th 2016 at 202k when transmission slipped out of gear and was really worn out. was basically 90% city with weight and 10% highway. It was a company truck my grandfather owned but I appreciated the truck.
These are easy to love. So far mine has been great. I owned GM trucks before this Ford. I must have had malaria!
@@SlickRidezGarage It's a great truck for easy work for sure. Can't believe I commented 3 years because I still talk about my old '06 to this day. 2 years ago my grandfather gave me the $1 bill I gave him for the bill of sale and he laminated it. Still has a special place in heart lol.
Where did you get the info that 4.2 has been around since the late 1970s
Ford fell behind the curve in the late 70's with their 6 cylinder line up, in that they only had inline 6'es. As vehicle sizes were shrinking to meet new Federal guidelines Ford basically copied the Buick 231 V6 starting in the late 70's. This copy was a 3.8 liter V6 but when they put it in the early Fox body Mustangs they called it a 4.2 as a means to cover that fact up. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching!
@@SlickRidezGarage appreciate it
@@SlickRidezGarage this might have answered my question about the 3.8l v6 lower intake from a 2001 fitting the a 97 and making this conversion possible. but i do want to still confirm please.
Do you think you could take a 1997 short block remove the heads and install 2005 heads and a 2001 intake on that 1997 block?
I don't know for sure, but there are updates to the later block that make it a better choice.
I hope you are doing well these days, I have read through every single comment and reply and i belive i found a similar answer to my questions before. i will need a 2001-2004 lower intake no matter what. however since the 3.8 is a 4.2 im wondering about the lower intake off of any 2001-2004 3.8 v6 like from a mustang or econoline van. being the upper intake is different in design on these years the lower intake should all be identical? thank you for your video i do hope to hear you are doing well.
Hello, and thanks for your question. I would use the intake from a 2001-2003 F150 4.2 liter or the intake from a 2004 F150 HERITAGE, not the next body style of F150. The F150 heritage model is the same body as the 1997-2003 F150. Hope this answers your question. I am doing much better after my strokes, and the tumor turned out to be brain damage from the stroke, not cancer. Thanks for watching and have a good one.
Mr need to replace engine in 1998 Ford F-150, how do I know what other Ford F-150 model or year the engine will be compatible with any problems i hard until 2002 can anyone help ??? Thanks
i have a 2000 v6 4.2 manual 4x4 !whis other motor fit in this one have 190 still working awesome short box single cab cammed
Awesome job, I normally just grab a old 3.8 from a Thunderbird or something slap the Dual Port heads on it and updated crank sensor and call it done everything works as it should, the 3.8 runs amazing with the dual-port heads from the 4.2
In this case a 4.2 with low miles was readily available from a place I trust, but I did learn about the 3.8 to 4.2 swap during my research.
A very good and informative video! Thank you!
For sure the best 4.2 out . I have a question. I am thinking of a repower on my 98 super hi mileage truck. Still runs well but have 2 cars coming up to auction near me. One is a 80k mi 2000 with a 4/200 build date and the other is a 82k 2004 heritage with a 2/2004 build date. My plan is to swap engine and trans to get the benefit of both. I am sure I need to swap the harness as well. I wonder what motor is nest. I read the gaskets were re done in 99 so are the two motors the same. The intake looks different but doesn't seem like the 2 are any different according to Wikipedia Essex page. Thanks in advance for any help
would really like to see the video of how he installed his motor because I am also about to install mine and I don't know how to start

Have you replaced a motor before? Just trying to get a feel for your experience level.
I just bought a 2003 with 126,000 miles. Should be pretty safe?
Did you hear it run first? If it ran ok and with proper procedures, maintenance and operation they're generally good for at least 200k
Very nice video, what are your thoughts on swapping out a late model 2016 f150 V6 N/A 3.5L to an ecoboost? Is it a direct interchange?
Question what is the torque for rock arm bolt ?.. thanksz if anyone answer me
wow! amazing work!
Did you used 05 fuel injector or the 97 fuel injector for the swap???
No, used the original injectors from the 1997. Thanks for watching!
Do you know name of camshaft drive gear for sycranizer
I do not know it's specific call-out, you might try ford parts online? They may have the factory specific name for it.
What about 2008 motor? Should be fundamentally the same? 2001 lower intake should still be the ticket? My truck is 97 as well
can I install a newer 4.6L from a 2004-2008 F150 into my 97 F150 4X4?
+Andres Rivas Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! I can't say whether or not it would work in similar fashion to this swap and would have to research your question to answer it. Have you tried any searches on the subject?
+SlickRidez Garage Hey thanks for the reply! Yes I did find one f150 forum that says it is possible to put an 07 4.6 into my truck I could send you the link if you'd like.
+Andres Rivas Sure, if your certain the link is safe post it here....may make for a good future SRG video? I never know! Thanks and have a great day!
+SlickRidez Garage www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42143
Amazing video with invaluable information. Question, I have a 97 model 4x4 with a blown motor. I am currently looking around for an 2005 engine and I know the 2005-2008 are almost identical. I was just wondering if there would be any additional issues with installing one from an 08 if there happens to be one at a great price or if I should just stick with 05 for simplicity's sake. Thank you for your expertise.
did you ever find out?
About the time you made this comment I started having health issues. I wish I could have helped you. Sorry about that. The 2005 to 2008 are identical.
@@SlickRidezGarage Thanks!
Thanks for the video...your giving me hope! I'm trying to do the same. Could you have just gotten a 2008 intake manifold upper instead of getting the 2003 intake manifold lower to match the 97 upper manifold? Or would that mean more changes?
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The later manifold is plastic and of a completely different design. Have a look at the video from 6:24 to 6:40. The black plastic thing on top is the upper intake for the 05-08. To use the late upper intake would mean swapping in the entire 2005-8 setup, and that's not very feasible. What year F150 are you thinking of swapping it in to? 2 or 4WD?
I've got a blown 98 and would like the better engine(05-08) like you. I also have a new tranny but it fits the newer starter bell housing pattern which I think started in 99 so that may be another issue. Could you elaborate on not feasible? Cause I'd rather not worry about tracking down a 2001 intake manifold? Thanks a lot for all your help!
The entire control system would have to be swapped over and the late to early transmission electronics will be incompatible. The 2001 lower intake is what you would need. Your upper intake will be re-used with the 01-04 engine. The lower intake should be available at nearly every wrecking yard near you, they are very common. It's way easier to swap in the manifold then swap a late model control system in. I think what you mean on the bell housing bolt pattern is you have a V8 transmission which has 3 starter bolts instead of two? Glad to help, sorry about the late reply just got done driving 642 miles.
Ok thanks, I'm gonna go for it and I'll just swap the 01 lower intake. Thanks for putting up the video and doing the legwork otherwise I'd have put in another problem child engine.
Your welcome! Let me know if you have questions, or please stop back by when you get it done and let us know how it turned out!
What accerie brackets did you use the 05 or 97's and what about the crank pully did you have to change that or use the 05's and i have a 1997 4x4 that I'm planing on doing this swap it has a auto trans witch flexplate did you use
Accessory brackets and flex plate were from the 97 and the balancer is from the 2005. Thanks for watching the video!
your video is right on time as my 97 5 spd 4.2 is dead. I bought a 2001 4.2 from a automatic van and plant the swap during the Easter break.
any suggestions or problem I may run into?
+allboydogs Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The swap should be very close to the same. Be careful if you have to pull the timing cover, they are easily broken. It's also a good idea while it's out to replace the clutch slave cylinder (internally mounted in the bell housing). I replace my clutch slaves with a replacement unit from Ford since aftermarket slave cylinders have a higher chance of failure and I don't want to have to remove the trans again after the job is completed. The top 2 bell housing bolts are a pain (esp. on the 4X4) and expect the exhaust manifolds to be rusted beyond re-use. Gimme a shout if you have other questions!
I know this is probably a little late but im pretty sure the wiring harness is backwards. It was for me from an E350 van to an f150
+mark stansbury I'm happy to say that my truck is running great with the van engine, I saved a TON of money doing it myself, this video was truly an inspiration
I'm glad your truck is still running great, and thanks for your comment!
So as of the 01 to 08 engines what would need to be swapped over from the 01. I’m looking to make a swap but wanna be sure of what is gonna be swapped if any.
About the time you made this comment I was in a full-blown health crisis. I'm sorry I couldn't help you.
I have a 2002 F-150 with 434,000 miles,I get that chirp,chirp,chirp sound when it starts up,maybe I need that syncro! thanks
434k....impressive! A chirp in the front of the engine that goes away when hot is a early symptom associated with a failing cam sync. Then again it may be a belt, pulley/idler pulley or water pump too. That's kinda vague and maybe not so helpful, neither is the location of that thing! It's hard to reach with an automotive stethoscope but if you have access to one and can give it a listen when cold I'd think real hard about doing that, or having a shop do it, just in case? Thank you for watching!
I finally got a check engine light on my 176k 1998...__PO153, Is this possibly oxy sensor on these? You are no doubt the authority on these motors and look forward to your thoughts. Car runs well......reset code...hasn't come back in 100 miles. ..a bit of rough idle at idle but not much. Thanks in advance.
I got a 2005 4.2 with auto trans that went out. I also got a 98 4.2 5speed both trucks are 2wd. Can I swap the 98 5speed and pedals over to the 05?
It would probbly be cheaper and faster in the long run to install a good used trans in the 05.
I’m having a heck of time trying to connect the engine to the transmission,did you take the engine mounts off? I did aligned the clutch where the alignment tool slide on and off with no drag,did you took off the exhaust manifolds?
I'm in the process of doing this now with my F-150. I had a heck of a time wiggling and positioning the engine but it slid in with the exhaust manifolds on and the motor mounts in place. It probably took me two hours to get it in position though I was doing it by myself.
I make alignment dowels from bolts about 3" long by cutting off the heads and grinding flats so I can use a small wrench to remove them. I screw them into the engine block then they are the first thing the transmission engages during an installation. After the bellhousing touches the block I install two of the stock bolts and remove my dowels. It's a very old trick. I do take the mounts off the engine and remove the manifolds since I replace the studs and hit the threads with anti-seize when the engine is out of the truck. I anti-seize all my exhaust components and have pulled parts I installed thirty years ago on other trucks without fuss.
This is a UA-cam classic! What a great video 👍
Thank you so much!
So I have a 2001 with the 4.2L. Am I understanding correctly that it's the same engine up until 08? So if I get an 08 or so motor would that fit in?
The 01-04 is not a direct swap for the 05-08, but the long block is essentially the same and your knock sensor won't have to be re-located. Your plenum, intake, accessories and possibly the oil pan will need to go on the 05-08 engine for it to work.
Thank you for your reply! Do you think it would be worth it? The only issues I've had are the leaking oil pan and intake manifold.
With a short list like that.....no, as long as the engine runs OK, has good oil pressure and doesn't knock/rattle/overheat. I'd look for a "Problem Solver" gasket set for the lower intake. If the pan physically leaks oil and it's not just expected weepage I'd replace that too. Pan "gasket" is one piece between the rear main bearing cap and oil pan. The rest is RTV gasket sealer. I used "Ultra Black" on mine.
Right now it's running lean and I can hear air rushing in from the driver's side manifold. I've heard it's hard to take off the oil pan in the 2wd is it hard in the 4x4 too?
Thank you for all your help!
On the 4X4 one has to pull the front axle to get to the pan. This gives lots of room to get it out. The cross member in the 2wd can't be removed and that makes it a pain. Have you tried to locate where the rushing air is coming from?
I have an '02 256 V6 and it's peppy but not quick.
There's no replacement for displacement!
@@SlickRidezGarage No joke. I traded it in for a (don't taze me!) 2005 Kia Spectra, which I think is about a 90 or 120 ci. It's the same
My dad has a F-150 4.2l v6 2002 and its great
There were a lot of beneficial revisions to the engine starting MY 2001. I see a lot of 01 up 4.2's getting 250K pretty reliably. Thanks for watching!
l did the exact same swap that part went well when I bolted the transmission on it locked up I was wondering was it the torque converter
The torque converter may not have been fully engaged in to the transmission.
lots of good info, im gonna do a 4.2 twin turbo build for my f150, at some point in my life. is it true the 4.2 is almost the same motor as the grand national? oil filter housing location and pump is the same...
Did you do the engine swap? I have a 1997 Lobo (F250 light duty ) and am looking to do an engine swap. I have the 4.8 liter V8 and am looking for a more reliable engine.
Thank you for 4000 views! Just a heads up, I have a re-mastered version of this video coming very soon with WAY better audio and picture quality!
You're a 4.2 fan too? I kinda want to do some modifications on mine, maybe mate a Tremec to it... because I want manual rrrk
I'm looking for someone to install a engine I'm my f150 are you interested it's a 05 that's tapping
may have been said oil pans are different because yours is a 4x4...also...depending on build date oil pans changed late 97...ad the 05 engine was in the new body...and they didnt make a 4wd 4.2 in that body style.
They didn't but you could order them that way.
Your video kill's me with detail . Wow those textbook instructions so thorough . Tell me - How good is the 2004 4.2 V6 ? Compared to 2005
After about 2001 or so the 4.2 was pretty solid, but the 2005 and up 4.2s seemed to fare the best. Thanks for watching! Hope you subscribed.
what would you charge someone to do this with a 1998 f-150 toral cost drop off and pick up turn key ...
Thanks for your interest, but I've had serious health issues for the past 2 years and I don't have garage liability insurance anymore.
I have a 2000 f-150 4x2 can i swap that engine into a 99 f-150 xlt 4x4 and if so would I need the xlt wireing harness?
Thanks for watching the video! If they are both V6'es, according to the information I have the 1999 and 2000 engines are a direct swap, save for perhaps some differences in accessories. You will not need the XLT's wiring harness. Have a good one!
I want to know more about this knock sensor. Is this one the same as the 2007? I believe mine is going out. I get an AWFUL lot of pining while accelerating particularly on the highway or interstate if I start to go up a hill. New plugs, new wires. Tried sea foam, new air and oil filter. my ECM isn't throwing a code but codes only get thrown if a sensor says hey, this is a problem adjust, computer adjusts and 1 has adverse effect or 2 reaches its limit. I can see where a sensor can totally be bad, give a signal and the computer run with what it knows and an engine not work right. So, is this the same knock sensor as the 2007? is it decently accessable without engine removal?
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The 1997 and 2007 sensors are different. The knock sensor contains a piezioelectric element. It is tuned to vibrate when pinging occurs. This creates a small voltage that when seen by the engine computer retards the timing and stops the ping. The knock sensor might be bad, but it also could be from lean mixture or a whole other host of things. I might be able to help you better if you can tell me what year F150 you're working on?
I have the 2007. I see where you put an 05 in your 1997 and I saw this was one of the differences. The 05 and 07 are same part so I assume 07 the sensor will be on the left cylinder head towards the firewall. What I have done so far is
new plugs and wires
sea foam 2x
new air filter
new fuel filter
things to try still maybe
knock sensor
clean MAF sensor
higher octane gas (I hope not)
9:49-10:52 of your video you not effectively have a 2005 knock sensor which is why I asked. The 2007 is the same sensor and I can only assume in the same location as the 2005 which actually changed starting in 1999.
Okay yes the KS is on the left head then. Its not impossible to get to but its not in a real great spot either. I've never done one on the 05up (plenty tho on the early 96-98) but engine removal shouldn't be needed. Poor driveability from poor sensor signals leading to other sensors flaking out is unlikely because the sensor sending a bad signal usually gets flagged (with a code) and ignored. No code + no PENDING code usually means sensors are all operating within their normal parameters, so have you by chance checked for pending codes too? 99% of the time when no pending or present codes are present there's something else going on the computer can't see. Tell me about the symptoms. Is pinging the only problem presenting? Usually I hear that along with sluggush, hard to start, poor acceleration....things like that.
starts fine runs fine, when cruising on the interstate or highway if I put it under a heavier load, IE climb a hill it pings all the way up the hill until I let off the accelerator. That is when it is most present, most pronounced and most likely to happen. It happens while driving in town too usually accelerating but not from a stop and usually not until At least 3rd if not 4th 5th gear.
Very interesting video. I picked up a cheap loaded 98 xlt f150 shortbox 2wd with 176k miles. It runs well but at times a bit tough to start. I am considering your swap. I have sourced several motors at wrecking yards with 9k...15k and 27k miles. They range from 700-1000 in price. Really low mile motors. Picked the truck up under 1k so could be a really low dough project. May have the trany rebuilt at the same time. Trying to decide if I run it into the ground or rebuild it. How tough was the r/r the motor? Any tough issues?
Thanks for watching the video! If the current engine runs well, doesn't burn oil or leak/cross leak fluids I would diagnose the occasional delayed start first. Could be as simple as dirty battery terminals or a vacuum leak at the reservoir tank under the right front fender, they are known to crack. A hiss at the right front fender with the throttle closed is a dead giveaway. I tend to gravitate towards vacuum leaks on this era of Fords, especially with 176K That can be a prime time for intake gasket issues if they've never been replaced. Is the check engine light on with codes stored? You'll have it better than I on a swap....the 4X4 makes the top bell housing bolts a serious pain to get to. I almost started using curse words again! lol I had to install the flex plate after getting the engine down in the compartment.....with it installed there wasn't enough clearance from the wiper module to the top of the radiator support to get it in there. This is a challenging swap.....so bring your patience and experience!
SRG thanks for the reply. You sound like an authority on these motors and your input is really appreciated. My truck actually runs really well///.hard start was just a poor battery. No check engine lights. I was just considering a full rebuild restoration motor- tranny- paint since it was getting up on mileage. My truck has all options power everything and it all works. I saw the 176k and was not sure of the longevity of the motor and a local search has uncovered some really low mi motors. No sense in changing it if these can rattle off 250 k but from what I have read they..(97-98 ) are trouble prone. I have no clue about if the intake gaskets have been done. It does leak some oil at rear of oil pan and I see some leaking valve cover gaskets. Do you know of an area where these are common leakers and is this a reasonable task on these? Thanks?
This knowledge comes from experience. If I were trying to extend the engine's life I would likely re-gasket the entire engine with "Problem Solver" gaskets wherever needed/available. They are a similar but much improved aftermarket design that are far less susceptible to fail in this application. The next killer is the Camshaft Synchronizer. They are known to seize up and that will stop the oil pump....while the engine continues to run.....until you turn the key off. That's the warning chirp-chirp-chirp I was speaking of that sounds like a squeaky belt. Re-gasketing the engine should be done by those with experience and patience, enough not to rush the job. The exhaust manifolds are likely rusted out and this can be a serious pain to deal with. The timing cover is known to stick to the block and it is fragile, easily cracked. Coolant bypassing in to the timing cover bolt holes can make fasteners a real joy fest to deal with. You may want to make an appointment for confession at your Church a couple weeks in advance of the job....because even good folks can be put past what they can take! lol just kidding but seriously...it's a challenging job that will try you. Sorry I didn't answer this any sooner, I felt a lot like dog dunny all weekend.
You knowledge on this is very valuable. To update my 1998 (built 12/97) 175k mi truck does run well. No check engine lights but my concern on start up is it stumbles for a few moments then runs clean. I wonder if I am at the early stages of the intake gasket leak of just may need a tune.? It always starts pretty easy and the stumble is just light....a hic up of sorts that cleans out. You mentioned re-gasket I wonder if you meant head gaskets also..I def dont want to get into that. I would re-motor first.
Leaking intake gaskets are usually accompanied by a higher than normal idle or slight misfire (sometimes very slight) when hot. When is the last time it had a new fuel filter installed?
Awesome video. I also like to do engine swaps and customizations. I also live in Springfield Missouri which it sounds like is where you're at also. I've watched several of your videos recently and never caught that. 👍
Howdy neighbor! I'm in the Rogersville area!
So, I don't have the space, tools or time to swap a engine. I have a '01 4.2 that sounds like a lifter or valve is bad. I ran some amsoil engine cleaner through it. Most of the "knock" disappeared but you get the rpms up around 2000 it comes back. Though it is not burning coolant, I need ALL new seals and that's going to cost about a third of a new engine. What is your opinion on a NEW factory, not rebuilt, engine? Would Ford fix all the known issues with a NEW engine? I know this is a long post. But, you are the first I have come across that sounds like you know what you're doing. Thanks in advance.
To the best of my knowledge Ford doesn't offer a new engine for that truck. I believe they are all outsourced rebuilt units from Jasper/SRC (Springfield Remanufacturing Company) and the like. Ford just sells them through their parts department as units that are "remanufactured for Ford" like the one I removed from my truck The 2001's are better than the 1997's gasket wise so if you get a replacement engine at least the gaskets, seals and camshaft synchronizer benefited from a later re-design. The symptoms you describe to me (lifter knock that comes back at higher RPM) may indicate the oil pick-up tube is stopping up. If the rattles get worse and/or spread through the rest of the lifter/valve train at sustained higher RPM's then I'd be checking the pick-up tube. This is why I never use an engine flush solvent. It can flush debris/oil gel down in to the pan and clog/restrict the oil pick-up. Have you owned the truck for a while or is it a recent purchase?
This is an awesome video, great work god bless you
Thank you! I've been experiencing health and family issues, your prayers are appreciated!
Hey man I have a 03 4.2 everything is stock can I boost it in any way or ad hp without changing much if so what or the best way of going about this. thank you
I've never looked in to it, and I haven't heard of many power adders available for this engine. The 4.2 is a near identical copy of the GM 3.8 V6, but not close enough for any Buick GNx goodies to work on it......darn......how cool would that be.......an intercooled turbo F150? Your question didn't link to my email or I'da jumped in here sooner. Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage!
Slick Ridez Garage i heard it was similar to the v6 in the mustang at the time, and all perfomance parts should bolt up
Cool thanks for commenting! Have a good one!
The 4.2 is the exact same block as the 3.8l Mustang/Thunderbird engines, different crank and longer piston rods from my understanding, i would like to find a 3.8 from a Thunderbird Supercoupe and do a block swap (SC had a higher carbon content) and push the ole 98 f150 with a 4.2l supercharged!
Thanks to all for 100+ thumbs up!
Thanks for the video! I just picked up a 97 in need of an engine rebuild or replacement. Is your ECU throwing any codes as a result of this swap?
Just done mine thanks for the input
What are your thoughts on a 2002 4.2/ I have a chance to purchase with very low miles..52k......I see they did not get the last gasket change in until 2004. Thanks in advance
If it's really a 52Kmi engine it probably has a lot of life left in it. Salvage yard engine?
No I found a complete truck...mint shape for pretty cheap. Its a bare bones model but well kept. 52k on the odo 2002. ..2500 bucks salvage title was hit in the rear and bed replaced. Have before and after pics
With proper maintenance and care the 2001+ engines hold up better than the 97-00's. It outghta be good for a long time!
I have a 2001 with 350,000 and it is in need of a new engine. It has started burning oil and has several oil leaks. I think I need you to fix mine. Good video some very good information thanks.
only 350k miles? what a quitter. I hope I can hit 350k with my 2003. only 124k to go
Damn I need to do this on my 2000 F-150 I got the same motor and the same problems
Hey Slick, currently dropping an 03 or 04 engine into 98, no need to swap int. manifold, but it does have knock and temp sensor on the back of the left head, i could really use some input on rearranging wires in order to accomplish what you've done there!
Joe Lewis hi I see you have the same problem I have i got a 97 f150 and I found 2006 engine did you find out solutions for the wire connection on knock and temperature sensor?
@@rafaelrojas5800 I did, I've got a Chilton manual and was able to puzzle it out via wire colors, what do you need to know exactly?
@@Joe_JesusWins_Lewis thanks for ur answer you used the old sensor from ur old engine or the new one come with the 2005 engine?
@@rafaelrojas5800 on both i extended the wiring from original points and connected newer sensors(solder those wires) because i kept the whole 03 intake plenum.
If you're using the 97 plenum and lower intake then you won't move the temp sensor right by the thermostat. You can simply extend the knock sensor wiring and route it up over the driver's side of the fuel rail to the back of that cylinder head.
Joe Lewis thanks so much for your help I going to use a 2002 lower intake manifold so now I know what to do thanks again
Did this swap engine came out of 2008 f-150 went in tooo 2001 f-150 no problems
Did you need to put Prograf in the fuel tank so the rest of the truck didn't reject the new heart? ;-)
LOL no anti-rejection meds needed for this one!
I have the 97 4.2 v6 2wd. Would this swap work?
Yes!
Where is your shop. I'm near Branson
I'm now near Rogersville
The 4.2 didn't exist before 1997 model year.the 3.8 Essex was the basis for this engine.it debuted for the 82 model year.
In the late 70's Ford copied the GM 3.8 V6 for use in their vehicles and called it a 4.2. Ford originally planned to use the inline 6'es up to the mid 80's but when government mandates changed it left them behind the curve so to catch up they straight up ganked the GM design.
I don't understand, couldn't you have used the intake from the donor truck?
Thanks for commenting! Do you mean the intake from the 2005-2008 engine? There's a pic of it next to the original 1997 intake at 7:32 and it's way different. If you have questions I'll be in here a bit later. Have a good one!
I am looking at an engine out of a 2000 model for my 97. I guess what I'm asking is can I use the 2000's intake?
Yes, you will need to attach your vacuum dashpots (actuators) at the rear of the intake for the IMRC system. Is a good idea to vacuum test them as the diaphragm inside is known to rupture and affect the system's performance. The plastic retainer clips at the actuator shaft should also be replaced. Don't forget to check the water outlet tubes for rust holes and the EGR passages for excessive/restrictive carbon build up or you might get an EGR flow code. Best wishes for your project!
Thanks
THANK YOU for 2000 views and 15 thumbs up! Season two of SlickRidez Garage will feature some pretty cool upgrades to the shop truck, all in motion picture format and HD with sound and lighting upgrades so I invite you to subscribe for future updates!
Excellent video. 👏
Thanks!
What is your cleaning process for the engine that would make a great video if possible man. Great video too though interesting you learn something new everyday
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! Eventually I'll make a video of the entire "Extreme Detail Process" available for purchase on a website to help generate some revenue for the channel!
+SlickRidez Garage Sweet how soon would you have this video ready ha
Production for season two is underway and I'm booked solid until November with that. The most likely release date for the Extreme Detail Process tm video is late spring/early summer 2017. You can subscribe for updates and a pre-release notification!
Great vid
how does the V6 4.2 litre compare to the V6 4.0litre in the ford ranger.
Thanks for watching and for your question. The 4.2 is an Essex family engine and the 4.0 OHV is a Cologne family. They aren't related. Between them I prefer the later 4.2 but both have their own sets of pattern issues. Are you comparing a Ranger to an F150 for a specific purpose?
The 4.0 is also related to the Taurus/Sable 3.0 OHV.
Currently in the search for a possible V8 swap or more powerfull V6. the newer engines have much bigger heads and take quite a bit more room in the engine bay. Looking at even an LS since there so compact.
There's no replacement for displacement, so if it were me I'd go the V8. I think with either a Ford or GM platform your going to need a shoe horn to get it in there. What year is the Ranger?
2004 with the stock 4 litre V6. Being a diesel mechanic swaps don't scare me, but the engine choice is so large that its difficult to choose.
If it were me I'd keep it Ford based, but I'm not sure it would make too much difference. By the time a V8 swap with any brand concludes most if not all of it would be new or different anyhow. Hope your thinking of video-ing that.....which would be cool! Good luck with the swap!
Looking at an 07 plain Jane 5 speed. Guy says it blew out a spark plug. He wants 1200.
That's crazy. I'm thinking 600 tops.
this video rules. you're awesome
Thanks, and thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage
👍👍
Thanks!
Wow a 60 dollar part caused all that, I got the 3.0 an I changed the cam shaft sco out like 3 years ago, i think ima change mine out in the morning just because of this video
Hope you got a Ford genuine replacement. I wouldn't trust an aftermarket for this application.
You seem like a good person to ask. I have an 02 F150 4.2 4x4 with a failing oil pan gasket. Is it possible to replace this gasket without pulling the engine? The engine has 180,000 miles on it and runs like a bear. I'd like to not have to yank out the engine just to replace the gasket. Another time they have me asking, "Why did the engineers do this to me?"
Thanks for watching! The oil pan gasket can be replaced without pulling the engine once the front axle/differential assembly is removed. The inner CV joints can be unbolted from the axle output flanges and moved out of the way without disassembling the suspension. Match mark the CV joint housings/axle flanges. After that it's pretty much unbolt the driveshaft, detach electrical/vacuum connections, place a suitable lowering device under the front axle, unbolt the mounts, lower it and roll it away. With it gone access to the pan is real good. Be careful to follow the gasket install instructions carefully especially with the amount and location of RTV gasket sealer. Use a torque wrench when tightening fasteners. If you have other questions I'll try to help! Thanks for commenting and have a good one!
Slick Ridez Garage Ok, thanks. Do you have any suggestions on where to start looking for the cause of a chattering noise? It only happens on acceleration or while the automatic transmission is shifting gears. I've been searching UA-cam for something similar but only finding valve taps and rod knocks. No loss of power either.
I'll need some more info. Can you pinpoint about where the chatter is coming from? Is it more forward or towards the rear of the truck?
Slick Ridez Garage hey i have a 1999 f150 single cab short bed v6 i think the enginr is toast no crank and no start. You think swapping in a 3.8 would be ok?
I've heard of people swapping in a RWD 3.8 in..... they're basically the same. I'm not sure of what year will work but there should be plenty of answers in the land of Google! Thanks for your question and for watching the video!
i have an 01 f 150 with the 4.2... you said it was named most reliable truck every built. where did you hear that. my truck is for sure awesome i also bought a 2016 f 150 because if how reliable ford is but id like to show my friends or what ever
Thanks for watching SlickRidez Garage! The 2005 Ford F150 4.2 V6 automatic was named the most reliable truck ever built. I believe it was a JD Power survey or similar. They still had a ways to go in 01, but Ford released several improvements to the 4.2 in 01 which made them way more reliable than the 97-00 trucks.
My 03 4.2 won’t die , no indication or leaks or noises , 170’s !!
Yup....just tougher than a $2.00 steak!
My 05. 05 f150 w/ 200,000 on it runs great . i here people getting over 300k from these engines..
Once Ford got the revisions right these engines were great!
My dads 06 had 285k miles as a work truck but let it go due to rebuilding transmission 2 times
This engine lasted over 15 years of torture before it died,Most engined now don't last 7 years.The way I see it,you could of just rebuilt your stock engine,and your good for over 15 yrs.
hi from cuernavaca morelos mexico ,
Hello! Thanks for watching!
2005 and newer 4.2 into heritage 97 to 2003/early 2004.. body style only issue i ran into is i had to extend the wiring for the cylinder head temp sensor, do not use butt crimp connectors on any sensor wiring/// solder and heat shrink any under hood wires/wiring.. salvage yards will say no go just like putting a 3.0 vulcan tarurus/sable engine into a ranger hell yes it will work done many. retired ford tech.
Hey so, is that the sensor on the lower left side diagonally located from the knock sensor? Donor engine is 03, I was gonna swap in my 98 water pump tubing outlet (top of water pump) and relocate sensor to the pcv valve heater outlet, which would move that rubber hose to the water pump tubing i mentioned. Also i do not seem to have any wiring anywhere on this old engine for the old coolant plug knock sensor! Which puts me on the spot to wire up that knock sensor... HELP!
If it helps, 98 f150xl someone did a motor swap supposedly, but i have Mexico emissions fuel injectors far as i can tell... i'm starting to get scared of this harness!
All that aside, swapping in an 03 and could use someone to bounce a few questions off, may go to local u pull for a wiring harness if i can't figure this out...
Thank you!
About the time you made this comment I started having health issues. I wish I could have helped you. Sorry about that.
I want this engine in my 2000 Mustang v6...
I'm not sure if the deeper oil pan on the 05-08 would clear the cross member on a 'stang......but the OHV 3.8 and 4.2 are the same engine family. Thanks for watching and commenting, please subscribe and let me know what you think of my videos! Have a good one!
Does that mean i would have to get an 04 and lower for the oil pan to fit and not touch the cross member?
The main caps are taller on the 05-08 requiring the deeper pan.
Got it! Thank you so much for that info. I will be going to pick n pull soon to get that engine, rebuild it and throw it in my Stang. I hear those engines are stronger than the 3.8 I have. These v6's are too heavy for this engine. Great video, keep them coming!
I uploaded three new body and paint videos hope you check them out! Thanks and best wishes for your project!
Thank you. Go Ford strong. 99 to go the same route.
How did your swap go?
@@SlickRidezGarage still on paper. Over loaded with other projects.
@@SlickRidezGarage ugh the new engine has plastic intake 👎🏾 2000 year is my limit.
Thank you for 10,000 views!