Extremely helpful video! One thought: Your green alignment mark isn't really needed. It's the alignment of the half-circle relative to the pick-up sensor under the cap that is the crucial position to get right. That's what tells the ECU your camshaft position. Your OTC 6469 tool takes care of that. Of course, though, you want the connector on the housing to be pointing generally in that direction so you can get to it. Dang, it would be nice to have a 3D model of this. It would be a simple part to print!
Excelent video thanks for your help I have 27 year working mechanic and this is the first time what I need install this part and believe me I don’t have idea how instal this part so your video help me too much
Great video wish I wouldn't seen this sooner. If you need a Cam Synchronize Tool and you don't want to buy one you can borrow one at any Auto Zone it's 15.00 bucks and when you take it back you get your money back or you can keep it that's what I was told just took it back the other day it worked well it's a Cardone Cam Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit 84-8400T.
I just replaced mine is there a common problem with these synchronizers getting oil because even though i changed it, when accelerating to 4000 rpms it makes a squeal and kind of sputters and then it catches
No, you can literally just undo 2 bolts and replace sensor but most of the time if the sensor bad it’s because this is off so it’s a good idea to try and just replace the whole thing.
I did everything just the way you said to do and now my car pops through the carb i went back over every thing a dozen times and its still poping could it be the sensor is bad the car ran great before i put a new cam cover gasket on could i maybe damaged the sensor some how im lost and could use any advice i can get
I installed the cam and synchronizer. However I believe my crank pulley is not where it's supposed to be at. The sixth tooth is in the middle of the crank sensor but the 0 is not in the timing cover arrow. It's off about by an inch. I know my engine is timed. Since I had a professional take care of that. Would I be ok ? Please get back to me . Thank you
I pulled mine out and put it back in without really thinking about it luckily my advance timing is still around 14 degrees in live data I used the way the wire was shaped and ran I based it off that but I'll definitely tweak it better when I reinstall my old thermostat since my coolant temp seems to run to cold and I have a weird sound when I accelerate now I'm scared I messed up the gear on the synchro and chipped a tooth on it and it's floating around the oil now
Good video. Just installed a .630 High Lift camshaft and dual valvesprings in my 3.8 but didn't leave a mark reference though. It idles but it doesn't respond to throttle. I tuned it for more fuel and it helped a little but i guess the Sensor is still off.
@@AppalachianDIY theres no codes for that. Just bank 1 02 sensors and egr code which im about to tune that code out. Im about to check the compression.. maybe the ignition timing is too high for this cam and is trying to push the piston down at the wrong time as i have seen high lift cams change compression drastically . Possibly a 1 minute run time wasnt long enough to set a cam timing code.
Why not just manually crank engine over until the tool fits over the old synchronizer? Then verify TDC by looking for that 6th tooth? Remove old one after making a mark on the body and block. Then drop new one in to same position.
I know This has been 11 months, but oh well, if you every take the EGR stuff out, you might as well replace it, esp on these old 20+ year old engines, EGR valves start to go bad and will give you a check engine light as well, and you can find them cheap as well.
Good explanation especially showing the oil pump drive, but do you know that the mark you made doesn’t matter? The cam synchronizer can be installed in any position around 360 degrees if the engine is at #1 top dead centre on the compression stroke before removing the old one and the engine is not turned. I explain this on my channel in detail.
@@redhouse409 Top dead center is the way to time an engine so that valves, pistons and spark and fuel interrelate to make the engine go. The static timing, as it is called, is set when number 1 cylinder is set to TDC and other components are timed to that event. Yes, TDC is determined and static timing set on a stopped engine.
I bought an engine without a synchronizer in it, how do I install a new synchronizer into it in the correct position if I have no matchmarks to reference?
Still the same way. The difference is, you may need a scan tool to set the exact cam offset. Otherwise, you may be guessing until the check engine light goes away
Thread one of the sensor screws into the sensor itself and slide hammer it out the metal inserts in the sensor are threaded I think for this purpose actually
@Josh Smith well,the water pump is off,also the synchroniser,.what else am I missing? I took off the hidden bolt behind the oil pump and the two small bolts that attach it to the oil pan.still no go.do you have anything in specific I should pay attention to? Thanks
Actually, you need to install the tool before marking it and removing the part, for acute installation. If you remove it then install the tool, it will be slightly off, hence defeating the purpose using the tool.
I think 😢this confusing The crank pulley is keyed to go on one way. Not mentioned. 2 Timing crank pulley to TDCwith the degree numbers on pulley is relatef to camshaft position. The crankshaft goes past TDC twice to one rotation of cam. No mention of theory to that. Only mentions air coming out of hose. But the hose has a check valve, and needs to be pressed in to work. Only lets air out of cylinder when connected to a compression gauge and check valve is then opened
Probably one of the best tutorials I’ve seen on UA-cam. Thanks
Extremely helpful video! One thought: Your green alignment mark isn't really needed. It's the alignment of the half-circle relative to the pick-up sensor under the cap that is the crucial position to get right. That's what tells the ECU your camshaft position. Your OTC 6469 tool takes care of that. Of course, though, you want the connector on the housing to be pointing generally in that direction so you can get to it. Dang, it would be nice to have a 3D model of this. It would be a simple part to print!
Excelent video thanks for your help I have 27 year working mechanic and this is the first time what I need install this part and believe me I don’t have idea how instal this part so your video help me too much
Great video wish I wouldn't seen this sooner. If you need a Cam Synchronize Tool and you don't want to buy one you can borrow one at any Auto Zone it's 15.00 bucks and when you take it back you get your money back or you can keep it that's what I was told just took it back the other day it worked well it's a Cardone Cam Synchronizer Alignment Tool Kit 84-8400T.
Great video. What do you recommend if the sensor is missing and can’t mark it for reference.
I got it changed, however, The new one squeaks louder than the old one. Any ideas?
Excellent detailed explanation supporting a good, clear video. Great job!
I just replaced mine is there a common problem with these synchronizers getting oil because even though i changed it, when accelerating to 4000 rpms it makes a squeal and kind of sputters and then it catches
Do you need to pull up the whole synchronizer just to replace the bad sensor?
I did ask the same thing didn't got any answer should be way more easier
No, you can literally just undo 2 bolts and replace sensor but most of the time if the sensor bad it’s because this is off so it’s a good idea to try and just replace the whole thing.
No just the sensor on top
with that install tool is it real needed to find top dead center ? i have to replece mine on my 3.8L 2004 Mustang. thanks great video so helpful
I did everything just the way you said to do and now my car pops through the carb i went back over every thing a dozen times and its still poping could it be the sensor is bad the car ran great before i put a new cam cover gasket on could i maybe damaged the sensor some how im lost and could use any advice i can get
What or how will sound or what problems will you get if the it’s not on point ..??? Just had mine intstalled and it has aVERY BAD MISFIRE
Thats what I be doing Wednesday ...on my 03 Ford F160 4.2
F160?
I installed the cam and synchronizer. However I believe my crank pulley is not where it's supposed to be at. The sixth tooth is in the middle of the crank sensor but the 0 is not in the timing cover arrow. It's off about by an inch. I know my engine is timed. Since I had a professional take care of that. Would I be ok ? Please get back to me . Thank you
I pulled mine out and put it back in without really thinking about it luckily my advance timing is still around 14 degrees in live data I used the way the wire was shaped and ran I based it off that but I'll definitely tweak it better when I reinstall my old thermostat since my coolant temp seems to run to cold and I have a weird sound when I accelerate now I'm scared I messed up the gear on the synchro and chipped a tooth on it and it's floating around the oil now
Do you have a video of that motor fixing the timing cover seal??
Hey thanks
For this!!! I watched scanner Danner install one without the tool and I was like there has to be a better way!
Good video. Just installed a .630 High Lift camshaft and dual valvesprings in my 3.8 but didn't leave a mark reference though. It idles but it doesn't respond to throttle. I tuned it for more fuel and it helped a little but i guess the Sensor is still off.
It should throw a check engine light if it's off a tooth or more. With a different cam though, I imagine some more tuning may be required
@@AppalachianDIY theres no codes for that.
Just bank 1 02 sensors and egr code which im about to tune that code out.
Im about to check the compression.. maybe the ignition timing is too high for this cam and is trying to push the piston down at the wrong time as i have seen high lift cams change compression drastically .
Possibly a 1 minute run time wasnt long enough to set a cam timing code.
Why harmonic balancer doesn’t have this numbers are marks??!
Thanks for the video i will buy the tool and doit on my own. Because my truck is been on 3 different mechanic shops and they haven't do anything
What if I'm just changing the camshaft sensor?? Do I still need to pull the synchronizer out?? And the special tool
No you won't need to do all that just for the cam sensor
@@AppalachianDIY thank you
So I pulled the thing off without putting on Tdc first is okay? So long as I move to tdc?
Did it work ?
Buenas tardes disculpe para sincronizar un cougar xr7 3.8 son las mismas marcas? no encuentro información en México gracias!!
perfect video and very well explained, thanks new subscriber
😃 When you said first thing to do is pull the engine my eyes got big. Great vid
So 2002 ecoline 4.2 will work on a 98 f150 4.2?
Can it be put in wrong with the tool? Probably
Do I need the tool just to replace the sensor by itself?
No.
Does the 6th tooth on the tone wheel apply to the 3.8 also?
Es muy necesaria la erramienta para poner un árbol depocision en un motor 4.2
Very good explanation!
Why not just manually crank engine over until the tool fits over the old synchronizer? Then verify TDC by looking for that 6th tooth? Remove old one after making a mark on the body and block. Then drop new one in to same position.
Thanks helped me out I was able to pull it with out pulling the intake. EGR was a must though
I know This has been 11 months, but oh well, if you every take the EGR stuff out, you might as well replace it, esp on these old 20+ year old engines, EGR valves start to go bad and will give you a check engine light as well, and you can find them cheap as well.
Good explanation especially showing the oil pump drive, but do you know that the mark you made doesn’t matter? The cam synchronizer can be installed in any position around 360 degrees if the engine is at #1 top dead centre on the compression stroke before removing the old one and the engine is not turned. I explain this on my channel in detail.
Would top dead center be when the car is off ?
@@redhouse409 Top dead center is the way to time an engine so that valves, pistons and spark and fuel interrelate to make the engine go. The static timing, as it is called, is set when number 1 cylinder is set to TDC and other components are timed to that event. Yes, TDC is determined and static timing set on a stopped engine.
@@EverydayProjects thank you used the tool as well too keep it in place and I got it done 💪🏾
@@redhouse409 Glad to hear your job went well!😀
Cannot for the life of me get the gears to mesh when I put the synchronizer in on my 98 4.0 ranger cant get my hand in there enough to rotate it in
I bought an engine without a synchronizer in it, how do I install a new synchronizer into it in the correct position if I have no matchmarks to reference?
Still the same way. The difference is, you may need a scan tool to set the exact cam offset. Otherwise, you may be guessing until the check engine light goes away
You will need the plastic disc looking tool that usually comes with it.if nut you could rent those things.
good video well explained, thanks for the posting it.
My truck is using lots of fuel and it starts kicking when driving you think it’s my Timing the problem
The special tool was included with my position sensor.
I’m having a hard time removing the sensor it’s not budging loose upwards
Chingon
Thread one of the sensor screws into the sensor itself and slide hammer it out the metal inserts in the sensor are threaded I think for this purpose actually
Great video James, that helped me out tremendously. Now go take a benadryl and the rest of the day off.🤧
Thanks man! Good explanation
How do you install it if there is no marks on it or on timing cover? Starting from zero?
I’m trying figure out same things
@@ronhebert6810 any luck?
Hi,do you have a video on how to remove the timing cover for this exact engine? I'm stuck at this stage.thanks
@Josh Smith well,the water pump is off,also the synchroniser,.what else am I missing? I took off the hidden bolt behind the oil pump and the two small bolts that attach it to the oil pan.still no go.do you have anything in specific I should pay attention to? Thanks
Very helpful pretty straight forward thanks
I took mine out and installed a new one without a special tool and my truck runs great why do people have such a hard time with this???
Actually, you need to install the tool before marking it and removing the part, for acute installation. If you remove it then install the tool, it will be slightly off, hence defeating the purpose using the tool.
Great 👍 video fantastic explanation
Thank's sir
Hpy nice day
Bless u
Very good information , and video ,thanks
I think 😢this confusing
The crank pulley is keyed to go on one way. Not mentioned.
2 Timing crank pulley to TDCwith the degree numbers on pulley is relatef to camshaft position. The crankshaft goes past TDC twice to one rotation of cam. No mention of theory to that.
Only mentions air coming out of hose. But the hose has a check valve, and needs to be pressed in to work. Only lets air out of cylinder when connected to a compression gauge and check valve is then opened
Don't forget to lube it with clean engine oil or assembly lube
Very good video
Perfect! 👍
Very helpfull tnx 👍
Thank you so much
Great work fantastic 👌
Awesome video. Thank you
Great vid. Helped a lot. Thank you!!
Good video bro
Very very good smart dude
Great video, God bless you!
good information tanks
Imma try the six tooth trick
Lmao you shoulda seen my face when you said to remove the engine😂😂 scared me
Excelente, saludos
Hey kids. Want to run an msd box? Swap in a Thunderbird distributor.
Bro parties to hard on the weekends
you left finger prints!
good video.
Ah man I removed the truck
Thank you very much.