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Tenaya Oasi: Let's Pick it Apart! In Depth Climbing Shoe Review
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- Опубліковано 21 гру 2016
- A Complete Description of the Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe, including Strengths and Weaknesses on the Wall. I'm going to take a look at General Appearance and Material (Sole, Rubber, Heel, Instep, Upper Surface, Closure System etc.) as well as Performance (Vertical VS Steep Terrain, Tiny Features VS Large Footholds, Friction, Heel Hook, Toe Hook and so forth).
I hope I could help you decide whether or not you should spend your bucks on this shoe, if yes please don't forget to give this video a like, it helps a lot. Did I forget something? Please leave your feedback in the comments, since this is the first review episode of this channel!
And in case you're convinced this is the right shoe for you, get it here:
goo.gl/FmhJyS (EpicTV Shop)
goo.gl/LfYxo7 (Amazon)
The Sizing is about the same as La Sportiva imo.
Tenaya Oasi : Let's Pick It Apart ! In Depth Climbing Shoe Review by Mani the Monkey
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The first review episode is live! Hope it didn't get too long/boring, I had so much to say :P Any feedback is highly appreciated.
In case you're planning to get the shoe online, the sizing is about the same as La Sportiva imo, forgot to mention that in the video, and in the description you can find a link. See you soon!
Yay! So happy to see the first Climbing shoe review!! I really appreciate the depth of it, because we can now determine if the shoe suits our specific Climbing preferences!
Have a good day Mani!
I'm happy that you pointed out that you received this shoe for free. Most people would not discuss that information. More props to you.
Perfect amount of information as usual. Better than most shoe reviews I have seen. It’s Awsome that you show videos of what your talking about as usual so we can really get the idea of what you meant. Would have liked to hear about an outdoor boulder session with them as my only possible improvement.
really good amount of detail and you sound totally not biased. very glad you are starting to do some reviews
great video just would be useful is you mention your size street shoos and compare with your size of shouse for claiming , thank you for the review😊
This is a great review! I own a pair of Tenaya Oasi and love them! The only thing I have against it is that they expand SUPER fast; I'm currently on my second pair. Maybe it's because of the climate of my country but after 3-6 months, they become too big (I get huge air pockets around the heel, to the point I can't heel hook accurately).
Zoie Esther Tan I haven't found this with my tenaya tatankas. They're artificial, so climate is probably the problem
Really awesome review! It's great that you go into so much detail also about your personal experiences and not just the stats :)
Nice review. I like that you tested the shoes quite thorough, in- and outdoors. The only thing I was missing was a description on which foot shape they would fit best.
Hey Mani! Good review. I'm a climbing shoe designer and would like to chat with you privately- to learn about how you review and to tell you about climbing shoe terms that we use universally that could help your reviews in the future. By the way, I love your training videos!
-Linh
Nice review =) Never too much information! Very nice video mani!
I just got Oasi as my second shoe, first pair is Tanta. My first impression is as you said, the Oasi is stiffer and more support than Tanta. According to Tenaya, Oasi should be softer than Tanta. Maybe it is because my Tanta rubber has become softer over 9 months use. But the Oasi is also very light and effortless. I do agree that it is not very good on overhang big foothold because it is stiff (they should be soft isn't it?).
The video had a great amount of detail and was not to long for a review! Keep up the great work.
Hey Mani. This was a cool review. I think the length is good. The arrangement of info and the focus on different aspects of the shoe and how it performs in different situations is helpful. Would be interested to know on how you find it for outdoor bouldering and technical sport routes. Maybe when you have the time, you should give that a go too! But good work. I think your channel is getting better and better. All the best.
Nice review mani!Thank You! Ihave 42,5 street shoes and have two pairs oft oasis. One 41 comfortable and one 40,5 realy tight fitting for me.
I like the osasis very much, especialiy in smal holes and on small edges especially on limestone.
I'm curious what you weigh. You mention that the Oasi is stiff and supportive which I completely disagree after wearing 7 pairs. I'm 73kg and I find the Oasi soft/medium. Also the toe hook patch works really well for me I and believe it's attributed to the small cut out section of rubber as it allows the toe to flex back.
nice video Mani. never too much information, keep it up.
Great review; good job Mani!
As you have mentioned, the durability of the Tenaya Oasi might not be the best. Would be nice from you to keep us in the loop and tell us how it goes. It's always good to get an impression of the livespan of a shoe...
That's a good point, I'll do my best!
Great review, definitely not too much detail. Thanks for the info and keep up the good work
Great review Mani! I was wondering how the toes rubber design would affect toe hooking and you answered that question perfectly. The Devils in the details as they say.
These are going to be my next pair :) Just ordered some So ill's street shoes.
great video. if you get another chance to do a shoe review, can you do one with no edge technology please *cough cough genius' cough* :D (btw the more detail the better)
I think the Genius is leather, in which case he wouldn't buy it due to his vegan lifestyle.
My wife only wears these shoes. She has a long, but narrow foot, and she found this was the only shoe that would fit her foot type.
Another point I would add is that in the long term, the velcro strap setup they have isn't that durable. My wife is having issues with it unsticking occasionally during climbing.
Thanks for mentioning this, never would have thought about that since mine are still relatively fresh. Sounds a bit annoying.
Yeah, she is on her third pair off them. Loves them, but this is a bit of an issue.
Nice, objective review. Kudos.
Really good review. Keep it up. Thanks
great vid mani!! love all the information. would love to see or hear your opinions on the LA sportiva solution shoes
Nice review! It wasn't to in dept, don't worry! Climbing shoes are fairly expensive and I would rather listen to some extra insight about the shoe and make my decission based on that then buy the shoe and realise I didn't know everything about it and feel dissapointed.
Thanks for the feedback, exactly what I thought as well! I'm always wondering about those 1 minute reviews.. I mean what should one get out of that? Will definitely go for a lot of detail in the next one as well :)
From Tenaya's website it says the sole is 3.5 mm thick. Anyway good video review!
Just checked it, it's true they say 3,5 mm. Interesting. Measured the outer edge, at the toe tip, and it's definitely 5 mm.
Kept it up Many!
Have you tried adjusting the stripes separately for the different kind of climbs? I've heard that makes a huge difference and bring more support to the front or the heels as needed
Nice vídeo bro!!!
hi mani! ich hab von dem la sportiva Mythos eco gehört- er wird als der erste "nachhaltige" kletterschuh beworben. ein entsprechendes Review würde mich intereessieren. coole Videos, danke dir! :)
Great review Mani! I'm a fairly new climber. I've never seen anyone use the plastic on their heels before. Can you tell me what that is for, is it special material that you purchase somewhere? Thanks
The plastic just serves to decrease the friction between the heel and the shoe (where it is usually the most critical) when slipping in the foot. This way you can make sure that you pick your size right (but don't fit them too tight, this can occur when using this method because you will get into shoes which would otherwise be clearly too small). It's not a special material, just a piece of plastic from a bag for example.
nice and informative! ☺
the only thing missing is your thougts about size (at least in my opinion)
that's an Information the Most reviews lack of..
Cheers
Do you mean sizing compared to other brands? Or in terms of what foot shape would fit the shoe?
Yes, good point! for what type of foot..
+Mani the Monkey
maybe both..? I'm always happy with informations like: compared to my size in streetshoes the climbing shoe xy fits exactly/half size down/half size up etc.
Mani the Monkey yea that would be a useful information on how the size compares to other companies and what type of foot fits those shoes. e.g. I need shoes that are relatively broad at the toes. great vid👌
Alright thanks for the input guys, won't forget to include it in the next one!
This is my favourite climbing shoe. It is so comfortable and performs really well. Best heel I've had too. I've been wearing it for about 2 months now, and the strap is wearing down against the metal :( Anyone else experienced this?
Cathexia D my strip also wear down after one year
after one year do seriously find that to be a problem ???
Most shoes are 100 done after that time.
Good video! Thank you! Did you try any smearing? If the shoe suits slab climbing then this is very important :) I think shoe reviews are the most difficult because everyone has a different idea of what is good. Comparing them to other shoes on the market really helped me.
I did! The shoe performed similarly to vertical climbing: Really good! I think everything that puts a lot of weight on the toe tips will work with this one. Lots of support, good friction.
Good / helpful review
excellent review, no gimmicks, stupid faces or hand gestures.. just the facts..
Hi, danke für deinen channel er hat mir schon viel weitergeholfen :) ich
bin gerade so langsam aus dem anfängerbereich raus und hab mir nach
beratung im laden den scarpa vapor geholt. ich trage sonst meist 42/42,5
in strassenschuhe und hab nach der beratung die gleiche schuhgröße nun
in dem scarpa. allerdings war ich nun einmal bouldern in denen und nach
15 min bouldern werden meine großen zehen taub und die füße schmerzen so
dass ich die schuhe immer ausziehen musste nach jeder route und ewig
warten musste bis sich die füße wieder berühigt haben. das hat nicht
besonders viel spass gemacht :/
da ich keine erfahrung mit engeren schuhen habe,frage ich mich, ist das
normal am anfang bei neuen schuhen? vor allem in anbetracht dass alle
informationsquellen noch zu kleineren schuhen raten?
ich wäre sehr für deine erfahrung dankbar
Ich habe mir das am Anfang auch oft angetan. (Sportiva Miura in 38 bei Schuhgröße 42 z.B.) Ich hab das halt in kauf genommen, weil dafür die Zehenbox sehr tight war und ich damit recht gut geklettert bin. Jetzt hab ich vor einem Jahr die Tenaya Tarifa (Schuhgröße 41) gekauft und sie haben von Anfang an perfekt gepasst ohne, dass ich je Schmerzen hatte. Conclusio: Wenn du Schuhe mit der richtigen Passform findest sind Schmerzen zu vermeiden.
Wichtig ist, dass du deine Fußform ungefähr verstehst. Welche Schuhe dazu passen findest du auch ganz schnell im Internet heraus. Ich hab oft zu kleine Schuhe gekauft, weil meine Ferse so schmal ist, dass ich gedacht hab ich muss mich einfach fester reinklemmen -> Schmerzen vorprogrammiert.
Sprich finde heraus was bei dem Schuh den du hast konkret die Probleme sind (Wo sind leere Räume im Schuh? Wo hast du Schmerzen? usw.) und probier dich anhand dieser Parameter durch andere Schuhe. Die, die dann am besten passen kaufst du dann!
Viel Erfolg dabei!
I got the oasis but i feel that they are a bite softer (not much support on tiny edges on vertical terrain) maybe is because i dont have enought strength on my toes or maybe is because i didnt pick the right size ( 42,5 Eu on street 40 3/4 on oasi) what do you think Many?
Great Work!
A good bit smaller than street size should do it with those, I wear 42 EU street and got 38 3/4 on the Oasi, but they definitely shouldn't be any smaller than this. Maybe you got them slightly too large.
Ye suposed that :(
Thank you so much Mani!
Hi from the Future :D
Superhelpful can you please tell me your height thankyou.
How does the shoe do on cracks? Otherwise, awesome job!
Thanks man, haven't tested it on cracks yet.
Fairly poorly, the section he points out that wears out quickly will wear out before the rubber if you are crack climbing in them. He is correct about it being the most comfortable shoe ever though.
Not recommended for cracks. The toe box is excellent for "bunching" your toes for power to stand on small holds, uber painful in cracks.
an sich find ich die Schuhe gut. aber nach einem Jahr Benutzung Musste ich meine zur Reperatur schicken weil das vecros sich vom Band gelöst hat, auf beiden Seiten. und auch das Band um die Öse ist auch ziemlich dünn geworden (Ja, die Wand lässt grüssen). Leider wird das weiss auch mit der Zeit gelblich. liebt wohl am Kleber?
aber Hey, was tut man nicht für Vegane Gute kletter Schuhe^^
Jop die Velcros und deren Bänder sind wirklich dünn, mal sehen wie sich die bei meinem Paar mit der Zeit abnutzen werden. Danke für die Info!
nyancore Nach dem Hinweis habe ich gesucht: vegan. Wurde im Video nicht erwähnt, wenn ich mich nicht irre.
Jo Theman doch hat er im Video gesagt :) aber nur vom Material her. weiss nicht wie es mim Kleber ist 😱
What is your street shoe size Mani?
42 EU. Got the Oasi definitely on the smaller (perfect) side, they shouldn't be smaller than 38 3/4. Just to give some orientation.
Thank you.
You forgot to tell people the shoe's price!
Well that varies greatly depending on where you want to buy them :)
By the way I think the shop I've linked to has got them relatively cheap..
Size 5.5 , you have terribly small feet. And you know what they say about men with small feet? Good at small foot holds ... yeh
Hohohohoho