Ignoring the woman in the first interview was not very nice, even after she engaged in the conversation, you did not even shook her hand. These spontaneous interviews must be stressful, but she clearly felt uncomfortable by your behaviour. Further more, maybe she had something to say about climbing shoes, too? Please do not take this criticism to harsh, it it just meant as a friendly reminder. Other than that, very interesting format.
I have four pairs of shoes, 3 of which are La Sportiva. My normal street shoe size ranges between 43 and 44.5 depending on the brand. Also good to mention I have "Greek" feet with a Morton's toe (2nd toe longer than big toe). Miura VS in EU 45. My first shoe, re-soled 3 times now with 2 rand repairs. They're "probably" too big, but I have no issue edging in them. By oversizing them (not really though), they've become flat and super comfy, but still stiff to support long routes and still tight enough for pulling on heel hooks. Not the best for overhangs, but it works. Skwama in EU 42. Very soft and comfy, can pull on holds like nobody's business. Smears really well and also works on slabs and because it's wider it fits my feet pretty well. Heel hooks are really solid, but you don't have much sensitivity. Toe hooks can be painful at times because of your curled toes. Edges well, great for overhangs and slabs and relatively comfy for a performance shoe. Maverink in EU 42. Super soft, no tensioning and has no-edge technology. A bit narrower than the Skwama so not the best if you have wide feet. They're super sensitive because they have thinner rubber, but it makes good footwork easy. Can't wear them for too long, but I'm still breaking them in. Toe hooks are good, but heel hooks don't feel the most solid. I've tried other shoes, but found La Sportiva to be pretty great all round. Skwama is my go-to shoe now, but might try the Furia at some point. I'd love to hear what other shoes people with Morton's toe and wide feet recommend. The Scarpa VSR didn't really fit right for me, Red Chili Atomyc almost made me amputate my feet and the same goes for the 5.10 Hiangle.
Really helpful video. Was looking at Scarpa VSR, but looking for something with a lot more durable rubber. Something stiffer like the Miuras to climb on limestone. So when I heard that he went through them quickly, that was a big no for me. Still looks like a fantastic shoe high-end shoe though.
Instinct VS. If you want something like the Miura, go for the Otaki, which is slightly wider than the Miura VS, or the Kataki, which is more narrow than the Miura VS (and even the Katana Laces). Katana Laces is very hard, stiff and precise. It is completely made of Lorica instead of Leather, so no stretch (especially in the toebox). Miura VS is leather, but lines, so stretching takes time and doesn't stretch as much as unlined leather. Otaki is also Leather and has also some sorft of lining. Kataki is also leather, but it is too narrow for me, so i don't know all the details excactly. If you want a flatter shoe, which is massively build, has the probably longest lasting rubber ever (and hast still good friction!), get 5.10 Anasazi VCS (brown with Stealth OnyXX Rubber). It is my indoor trainings shoe. Longest lasting and not as expensive als all the other higher end models. It is flat, it is like a LaSpo Katana but with different shape. fits also slightly wider feet. heel has a little too much volume for me (i have extremely low volume heels!), but with the slits, you can passively hang in high heel hooks and recover meanwhile. Never happend with any other shoe! Ah, and the LV version with the great Stealth C4 rubber is the shoe Shauna Coxsey used when winning now 2 years in a row the Bouldering world cup. Can't be that bad, can't it?
I hate the fact, that 5.10 sold the brand to adidas. I was wearing the anasaci vcs for 12 years, totally happy with them, and suddenly they changed the look, the shape, the size and the quality of the shoe - unfortunately poorly produced (now made in china)
Have you tried the Skwama though? One of my favorite all-round and performance shoes. And if I look around in most gyms, others seem to like them a lot as well.
I currently wear La sportiva otakis. Awesome. Great heel. Very precise toe. Fit me perfectly. I'm just ready for something a little softer now. Not furia S soft but just not as stiff as my otakis. Any thoughts?
Pretty much all shoes fall into that range, because the Otaki is very stiff (stiffer than the Miura VS, but a little bit more precise) and the Furia is one of the softest shoes out there. I think something in the middle, like the FiveTen HiAngle or the LaSpo Testarossa?
Philipp Puchner I must say I have been looking at the new 5.10 Hiangle synthetics. I’m yet to try them on but all reviews sound great. Just the toes not as precise
I use the HiAngles (2016 grey/aqua), so the latest model made of leather. Inside the shoe they are grey, so no smurf feet like after wearing the first version. The toe isn't as pronounced as in other models of other brands, it is more rounded than pin pointed. Same goes for Anasazi VCS. So far, I never hat problems with it, because the sweet spot on the shoe wasn't a single point, it is more like a area, so you don't have to stand exact on the right milimeter like with "more precise" shoes. Sounds strange, anyway, the shoe works like hell! First heel that really fittet me. I'm EU 45 / UK 10.5 street shoe and got the HiAngles in UK 10 / EU 44.5. Never had a break in in a shoe like i have with these! At first they feel very tight and just not good. It is not s structures, harder shoe like i was used to. But with EVERY usw the shoe became better and moulded onto my feet. After 5 uses they were good (3 of the 5 i was wearing them at home, 2time bouldering indoors), after another 5 times sport climbing, they are just amazing! Soft shoe, but because of the plastic insert, they are good enough for edging for a heavy climber like me (~83kg empty and naked), therefore a soft shoe which isn't too soft. And the C4 rubber is just the best allround compound there is in the world, hands down! Just when usind them indoors for sports climbing, the rubber inside edge wears quickly. There has also be a reason why so many comp climber in the world cups use the HiAngles! :) So, if the shoe would fit me well out of the box, i could go with the new HiAngle synthetik. But since the shoe has to adapt to my foot, it the leather version is better for me.
Holy bejesus why didn't you talk to the lady with the Tenaya Oasi and Mundakas? SMH
Seems like the girl in the beginning wanted to talk about her Tenayas
For real
They're good too! Commmfy
Ignoring the woman in the first interview was not very nice, even after she engaged in the conversation, you did not even shook her hand. These spontaneous interviews must be stressful, but she clearly felt uncomfortable by your behaviour. Further more, maybe she had something to say about climbing shoes, too? Please do not take this criticism to harsh, it it just meant as a friendly reminder. Other than that, very interesting format.
I thought this but then I thought he may have not wanted to interrupt for too long.
Couldn't agree more
That was a neat format. Goes away from reviewing shoes based on what the presenter thinks to what people buying shoes think
Doug Thorpe True. Still extremely moderated though:) 3:11
I have four pairs of shoes, 3 of which are La Sportiva. My normal street shoe size ranges between 43 and 44.5 depending on the brand. Also good to mention I have "Greek" feet with a Morton's toe (2nd toe longer than big toe).
Miura VS in EU 45. My first shoe, re-soled 3 times now with 2 rand repairs. They're "probably" too big, but I have no issue edging in them. By oversizing them (not really though), they've become flat and super comfy, but still stiff to support long routes and still tight enough for pulling on heel hooks. Not the best for overhangs, but it works.
Skwama in EU 42. Very soft and comfy, can pull on holds like nobody's business. Smears really well and also works on slabs and because it's wider it fits my feet pretty well. Heel hooks are really solid, but you don't have much sensitivity. Toe hooks can be painful at times because of your curled toes. Edges well, great for overhangs and slabs and relatively comfy for a performance shoe.
Maverink in EU 42. Super soft, no tensioning and has no-edge technology. A bit narrower than the Skwama so not the best if you have wide feet. They're super sensitive because they have thinner rubber, but it makes good footwork easy. Can't wear them for too long, but I'm still breaking them in. Toe hooks are good, but heel hooks don't feel the most solid.
I've tried other shoes, but found La Sportiva to be pretty great all round. Skwama is my go-to shoe now, but might try the Furia at some point.
I'd love to hear what other shoes people with Morton's toe and wide feet recommend. The Scarpa VSR didn't really fit right for me, Red Chili Atomyc almost made me amputate my feet and the same goes for the 5.10 Hiangle.
I found this very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Spotted some canoes at 11:15! :D That guy has big feet!!
Holy hell those feet are long
built for climbing and white water rafting!
Why didn’t you ask the lady about her shoes? They look a lot different than the usual La Sportivas and Scarpas.
after those two videos im so afraid that matt is gonna show up at my wall asking me questions.
Really like this, top job! It’s great to have other’s opinion, especially when they’re not afraid to be negative about them.
Matt, nice to see you came dressed as Rochelle
The WORST thing about about solutions is the strap system. Its just a waiting game before it snaps, why have La Sportiva not fixed this issue???
Really helpful video.
Was looking at Scarpa VSR, but looking for something with a lot more durable rubber. Something stiffer like the Miuras to climb on limestone. So when I heard that he went through them quickly, that was a big no for me. Still looks like a fantastic shoe high-end shoe though.
Instinct VS. If you want something like the Miura, go for the Otaki, which is slightly wider than the Miura VS, or the Kataki, which is more narrow than the Miura VS (and even the Katana Laces). Katana Laces is very hard, stiff and precise. It is completely made of Lorica instead of Leather, so no stretch (especially in the toebox).
Miura VS is leather, but lines, so stretching takes time and doesn't stretch as much as unlined leather. Otaki is also Leather and has also some sorft of lining. Kataki is also leather, but it is too narrow for me, so i don't know all the details excactly.
If you want a flatter shoe, which is massively build, has the probably longest lasting rubber ever (and hast still good friction!), get 5.10 Anasazi VCS (brown with Stealth OnyXX Rubber). It is my indoor trainings shoe. Longest lasting and not as expensive als all the other higher end models. It is flat, it is like a LaSpo Katana but with different shape. fits also slightly wider feet. heel has a little too much volume for me (i have extremely low volume heels!), but with the slits, you can passively hang in high heel hooks and recover meanwhile. Never happend with any other shoe!
Ah, and the LV version with the great Stealth C4 rubber is the shoe Shauna Coxsey used when winning now 2 years in a row the Bouldering world cup. Can't be that bad, can't it?
loll yep, coming from miura the scarpa instinct felt soft right away with no break in period.
Handmade Italian leather ladies shoes are just the bomb.
Can we have some more of these videos. They are quite interesting.
Any thoughts on Solutions???
I hate the fact, that 5.10 sold the brand to adidas. I was wearing the anasaci vcs for 12 years, totally happy with them, and suddenly they changed the look, the shape, the size and the quality of the shoe - unfortunately poorly produced (now made in china)
Great episode 👍🏼
La sportiva vs even though im a teenager but i have the weirdest feet and they fit like gloves
why are people leaving la sportiva? they have a good shoe still!
Bwolften probably cause they're not the only ones
As a brand theyre not evolving. Theyve stayed the same for a long time
Have you tried the Skwama though? One of my favorite all-round and performance shoes. And if I look around in most gyms, others seem to like them a lot as well.
The heel i find is dreadful and too soft for my liking
"...stupid enough to talk to you..."? Do you hear yourself?
Good segments.
Find some slipper wears for tips on buy
He completely ignored those mundakas
I currently wear La sportiva otakis. Awesome. Great heel. Very precise toe. Fit me perfectly. I'm just ready for something a little softer now. Not furia S soft but just not as stiff as my otakis. Any thoughts?
Richie James madrock shark
Instinct VSR or Skama
Pretty much all shoes fall into that range, because the Otaki is very stiff (stiffer than the Miura VS, but a little bit more precise) and the Furia is one of the softest shoes out there.
I think something in the middle, like the FiveTen HiAngle or the LaSpo Testarossa?
Philipp Puchner I must say I have been looking at the new 5.10 Hiangle synthetics. I’m yet to try them on but all reviews sound great. Just the toes not as precise
I use the HiAngles (2016 grey/aqua), so the latest model made of leather. Inside the shoe they are grey, so no smurf feet like after wearing the first version.
The toe isn't as pronounced as in other models of other brands, it is more rounded than pin pointed. Same goes for Anasazi VCS. So far, I never hat problems with it, because the sweet spot on the shoe wasn't a single point, it is more like a area, so you don't have to stand exact on the right milimeter like with "more precise" shoes.
Sounds strange, anyway, the shoe works like hell! First heel that really fittet me. I'm EU 45 / UK 10.5 street shoe and got the HiAngles in UK 10 / EU 44.5.
Never had a break in in a shoe like i have with these! At first they feel very tight and just not good. It is not s structures, harder shoe like i was used to. But with EVERY usw the shoe became better and moulded onto my feet. After 5 uses they were good (3 of the 5 i was wearing them at home, 2time bouldering indoors), after another 5 times sport climbing, they are just amazing!
Soft shoe, but because of the plastic insert, they are good enough for edging for a heavy climber like me (~83kg empty and naked), therefore a soft shoe which isn't too soft. And the C4 rubber is just the best allround compound there is in the world, hands down! Just when usind them indoors for sports climbing, the rubber inside edge wears quickly.
There has also be a reason why so many comp climber in the world cups use the HiAngles! :)
So, if the shoe would fit me well out of the box, i could go with the new HiAngle synthetik. But since the shoe has to adapt to my foot, it the leather version is better for me.
I enjoyed the matching outfits of the last guest and Matt
like for that awkward guy entering in the beginning
“Stupid enough to talk to me”
Any Butora love? Thinking about getting the Acro's
14
second?
confirmed :)
Third? 😂
hells yeah! bronze medal! :D
First again
BOOM!
Frist