Olympic climbing shoe quiver - Tokyo 2020
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Here's the quiver of climbing shoes I had in my bag for the Olympic games. With the three disciplines (speed, lead and boulder) there was a lot of different scenarios you needed to be prepared for and I didn't want to be left wanting.
I took 4 different pairs of shoes with me in a few different sizes.
Speed: Tenaya Mundaka
Boulder: Tenaya Mastia + Tenaya Oasi
Lead: Tenaya Mastia + Tenaya Oasi
Spare/just in case: Tenaya RA
Size of shoes
Street shoe size: US 10 - EU 43
Mundaka: US 7 - EU 39 1/2
Mastia: US 6 1/2 + 6 - EU 38 3/4 + 38
Oasi: US 6 1/2 - EU 38 3/4
RA: US 6 1/2 - EU 38 3/4
Let me know if you want to know more. I'd love to answer your questions!
Australian climbing news and podcast www.baffledays.com.au
Im a climber transitioning from beginner to intermediate walls and the Oasi has been on my radar for abit. Safe to say after watching this I'll definitely be getting them!
Haha awesome. They are 100% my favourite shoe ever. Fit me like a glove 😀. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do
I'm just amazed how you manage to squeeze into such small shoes without getting your toe absolutely wrecked. Street size 43.5 here and tried to persevere in Oasi 41.5 for a bit, but reading how they don't really stretch much, i ended up going for a size 42. How in the world you can fit a 38 is beyond me, as the pressure on my toe knuckles (which are sticking out due to rough skin) in a 41.5 size ended up peeling the skin off due to a lot of indent pressure. Unfortunately there is a lot of vertical space gap in the heel which is the only downside. I didn't find my size in LV version locally but overall i'd say Oasis are amazing and super comfortable. I couldn't even walk normally in close to street size Vapors due to toe knuckle pain.
Haha it’s funny because I actually find the right shoes pretty comfortable. Like a
firm cuddle haha. Maybe I’ve lost feeling in the tops of my toe knuckles after nearly 2 decades of climbing as well haha. I’m still totally in love with the Oasi. Can’t see it being replaced anytime soon. Oasi lv sounds like it could be a winner for if you ever get a chance to try. When I’ve tried them on, I go up a half size from reg Oasi. But that’s me, fitting the Oasi well. Don’t know what that would be like when you actually need the LV
Been climbing in mastias for the last 2 years! Took a bit getting used to. I had the same experience waiting for the "click ". Also purchased mundaka and i already love them too! Tenaya is the best
Haha yep, they sure are. Psyched to hear you're enjoying the range of them too :)
I just copped a pair of mastias because they are cheaper than solution comps. I sent my proj straight away in em, and got massive highpoints on the big proj. A particularly tricky v8 and a crimpy v10
Ahh rad! Nice one. I'm a massive fan of the Mastia and find myself reaching for them more and more these days. Such a fun shoe
I just got a pair of RAs today. Big fan,,, is homie sponsored by tenaya lol?
Wow! Just watched first minute so far. Seems like perfect video, been shopping shoes and tryna pick a new tenaya model now that I got to ship my oasis in for resole. Thanks
Haha brilliant. Glad it was helpful for you.
Hey Tom, quick question! How do you normally navigate sizing compared to your street shoes. I have trouble with my heels being too baggy causing me to downsize to painful sizes to get it to stick.
Thanks for the great info and videos! They’re actually stellar.
I wear UK 10 street shoes and wear UK 5 - 5 1/2 in the Tenayas. This is pretty tight, but actually quite comfortable. They just squish my foot in all the right places. If you have a real issue with the heel, maybe try a low volume shoe like the Oasi LV or the Ra LV. Many manufactures do LV versions of popular models these days so perhaps worth looking around.
I'm going to make a video about fitting shoes soon :). Psyched you're liking the vids
Thanks for the vid ! I'm just wondering, i've been using rentals so far, and i don't really know how climbing shoes should fit. Are we supposed to wear them having the toes squished together, does it hurt after 15-20mins of putting them on? I'm trying to get a suitable size, hope you can help me out
It really is a personal preference thing. I’d suggest trying out different sizes in the hirer shoes in your sessions. See how it feels to go smaller or bigger. I go small (45 street shoe, 38 climbing shoe) with toes totally scrunched and am comfortable with keeping them on for a 2hr session. But I know folk (most) who can’t fathom that and climb at a super high level in shoes almost the same as street shoe.
Hey Tom, I have a question: what do you think about the iati?
Are they similar to the oasi? For what type of climbing are they good? Better for sport or bouldering?
Thanks!
Iatis are really great! I wear tons. They have a similar feel to the Oasi, albeit slightly wider across the front of the shoe. I whip them out whenever I want to stand on small feet. They were perfect for a V14 boulder I did recently called maulin angel. Also worn them to sport climb 9a/35. So really, they excel across both disciplines. Hope this helps 😀
Hey Tom, great video as always. Just wondering, what pair of shoes is really durable, as I do a lot of speed climbing and go through shoes every 3 months !!
That's the million dollar question! I found decent longevity from the Mundaka, but it was a pretty quick life compared to a normal pair. Speed is brutal on your shoes in nearly every way. They may be on the wall for less than 10 seconds each run and maybe not do more than 2 minutes total work in the whole session, however that work is at the absolute max capacity of the shoe. It's a hard life for the shoe.
Generally speaking, a shoe which is built more sturdy, to live a longer life, will be far more rigid and perhaps not very comfy to climb in. The softer and more supple, the shorter the life. I depends on what you're after.
What are you wearing at the moment?
@@TomOHalloranAus Hi Tom
Thanks for your quick reply.
At the moment I am wearing La Sportiva and the pair before that was Joker.
I definitely need new shoes when we come out of lockdown as I live in Melbourne and dying to get back on the wall and CLIMB
Have a good day and thanks for your reply
Hey Tom, cool video! Wondering what your thoughts are on the Iati and where it sits in that quiver in terms of features and performance?
Cool. I think worth trying different option if you're curious. Always worth exploring options i think. Good luck in lock down. Hopefully you're out and at the gyms again soon!
Peter, I LOVE the Iati as well. For me, they don't work as well indoors as the others do (though alex megos loves them for indoors). Outdoors they are great! Similar shape and style as the Oasi, but a little stiffer through the midsole, making them even better for standing on small things. I've done a stack of routes in them now, from super steep and roofy stuff through to low angle tiny feet
Hi Tom, I wear 43 eur shoes for street sneakers and I have a 41eur/7.5uk katana and a future 41, even though the toes are softer the toes bother me more than the katana, besides that I don't feel very confident on vertical climbs with her. I destroyed my shoes so I bought a comp solution for difficult projects size 41 and I believe it will give me the confidence I'm looking for, but I need a shoe in parallel to climb and not destroy them so easily. I'm looking for a shoe more for verticals, precise and comfortable, the equivalent of a solution half a size bigger, you know? I wanted to know if I take a yacht or oasi? And what size? Thank you so much, you are amazing!
Gday victor. I find the Tenayas and sportivas have a pretty similar sizing. And solution and oasi/iati have a similarish shape to the solution. Solution a bit more stiff and ‘beaky’ in the toe. I think the tenaya heel has more sensitivity too, which i really. Good luck on the hunt for shoes. I think the Tenayas are definitely worth a shot
Do the Ra's have a moderate downturn, or is it neutral? I have flat feet and am looking into a performance shoe, so I don't need too much downturn to put power into my toes. Thank you!
Definitely a flat shoe. I've actually just been wearing them a lot more again in the last few weeks. I forgot how good they are! Very very very awesome shoe :)
@@TomOHalloranAus awesome! thanks for in the input :)
Wise words from a climbing master:
"I've worn so many different pairs of climbing shoes, I've put them all on my feet" 😂
Love the tenaya oasi, just about to buy another pair and resole my other two pairs! Nothing feels as comfortable! But I did get a bit interested in the mastia now as well!
Haha that’s awesome!! I’d definitely recommend popping the mastia on your feet. To me they felt odd to begin with but broke in really well and I love them now!
@@TomOHalloranAus You actually got me interested in the mastia, gonna pop by the gym this afternoon and see if they have a pair i can try! Thanks for the tip! The big bummer about the oasi is the lack of rubber for toehooking and the so-so heelhooking. Been using drones for anything hooky, but would love to be able to use tenaya for that!
I hear people say that about the Oasi heel but honestly, I find them the best shoes to heel hook in I’ve ever used haha.
how are the Mastias in width in comparison to the Oasi/Iatis? Ive read on the net that they are higher volume but do they fit wider also? i have the Iati and its pretty narrow can only do 3 routes in them.
I really love the mastia. Use them A LOT! They are wider which works well to fit a foot comfortably plus smearing is a breeze in them. Max surface area and confidence
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks
Hey Tom, great informative vid. I have the Oasi and loved them tried the Mastia but they feel so weird. My toes right at the end and feels like they are being forced to the rubber patch at the front so maybe will be swapping them. Have you tried the Indalo? I'm tempted to try these or the Mundaka, would you say they fit similar to the Oasi? Thanks
Hey, sounds like you're experiencing a little of what I felt initially with the mastia and what turned me off them in the first place. But they broke in and are now one of my favourite shoes. But of course make your own decision, perhaps its just not the right shoe for you. Mundaka is a tad skinnier and your foot sits a little flatter in it compared to mastia. It's a great shoe, but I prefer mastia and oasi as my go to boots. At a point theres a leap of faith you need to make with a new shoes choice. see how it feels in the shop, then give it a go :)
what do you reckon would be a good pair of training shoes to trash? I don’t want to burn through my send shoes all the time and need a solid pair for bouldering. Thanks
This will always come down to a personal preference, but I think the mastia is an awesome training boot. use them for sending until they are done for then transfer them into the training bag. pop a resole onto them if you need to and they go. I love my totally clapped out old shoes for training. Other option is some slippers like the mad rock remora's, they look great for training shoe
@@TomOHalloranAus cheers for reply!
Hey Tom, do you wear the same size in iatis and oasi?
I've been wearing (and loving) the iatis for a while and have been thinking about oasi for my next shoe.
Hey, yes, same size. I'm actually same size across the whole Tenaya range. Makes things pretty simple :)
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks mate, appreciate the info (and reply) 😊
Hey! Have you tried the Tarifas? If so, how do they compare to the oasi, mastia, and mundaka?
They are a great comfy allrounder. More similar to the Oasi than the Mastia and Mundaka
Awesome video Tom. Can you elaborate a little bit on what you mean by using the Mastia differently? I've recently got them and they feel rather stiff out of the box and not quite as sensitive as some other high end shoes.
Hey Ryan , this was my experience as well. Also the shape of the shoe twisted my foot in an unfamiliar way. I spent a few sessions coming back to them over a time before they 'broke in' and they clicked. My brain and feet recalibrated to them and I am so glad I did. I'd 100% give them some time. I find them quite sensitive now too. Might be sizing issue as well. A friend goes down a size of two in her mastias compared to the rest of the tenaya range. Being a higher volume shoe, you can sometime afford to do that. Depending on the size of your foot.
Basically the toe is in a different spot to something like the Oasi, Iati (and probably a solution, vapor, etc) so you need to place your foot differently and stand differently in them. Does that make sense?
Hey, I love the mundaka and now I´m look for some more "aggressiv" Shoe for very small holds I ordert the oasi and the lati(they didn´t arrived yet). Maybe you have an idea want would be the best fit for me ;) would love to hear your opinion.
I think you'll find a lot of joy in each :). I love them both. It will come down to your foot shape, how you use your feet, the climbing you're doing and how you size them. For me, the oasi is the go to, but i have been popping the iati on a bit more recently and been loving it. It's a great quiver to have at your disposal! lots of good climbing days ahead for you!!
@@TomOHalloranAus Thank you for you fast respons.
Hi Tom, I am using a beginner shoe Tenaya Tanta. Now I am intermediate and looking to get a more downturn shoe. I mostly do indoor bouldering, which would you recommend?
My one shoe quiver is the Oasi, I LOVE it! The others which are great for indoor bouldering are the Mundaka and Mastia. They all perform really well outdoors as well :)
@@TomOHalloranAus Among them, which is more durable?
Mastia and mundaka are perhaps the same. Durability comes down to the climbing you do, how you treat them, how good your foot work is etc etc. Go with what feels best on your foot. For me that’s the Oasi and mastia
@@TomOHalloranAus Thanks man, appreciate it
@@TomOHalloranAus Hey Tom, I want to ask should I get a new pair of shoe at this stage? I am intermediate climber at V4. Some people don't recommend as they say I might destroy the shoe quickly with crappy footwork. And these shoes are expensive in my country, even the Tanta already is. But I believe I have decent footwork as I always place my foot precise and silent since the beginning. How do you evaluate good footwork? Just want to hear your thought.
Have you tried the Indalo? If yes, what do you think about it?
Not on the wall, but tried one at a shop. They’re comfy and soft. Felt like a Mastia and Oasi had a baby and it got soft. I think they’ll be awesome
Iati for the win
Totally awesome shoes. They were the shoe of choice for me yesterday when I did a new FA here. I’m always psyched to hear a fellow Tenaya lover ✌️
@@TomOHalloranAus I love tenaya but the Ra they don't fit my heel, I use them for multipitch (I size them biger so I can wear them for hours) but when heelhooking they feel like my feet is going to pop off, but they are awesome for edging, smearing and jamming, lucky I don't rely on heelhooks when I trad hahaha.
And I am excited to test the new Indalo, but at the time I didn't find anything better than Iati for sport climbing, the most underated shoe in the market!!!
I totally get that. I have the same experience with the Ra. Although I’ve done a few hard heel hooks in them, they aren’t my go to for heel moves. The times I’ve put them on and needed to heel hook, their edging power on every other move far exceeded any drawbacks. I’m with you on the underrated as well. I think we are on the cusp of tenaya becoming one of the dominant forces in shoes. Exciting 😀
Love the insight, had a question though. How would you compare the iatis to the oasi? What makes you love the oasi so much more?
For me, the Oasi just fits like a glove and is shaped in a way that really suits my style of footwork. They are structured enough to let you stand on small footers, but also soft enough to really be able to 'grab' holds with your feet too. The Iati is a similar shape, so feels quite familiar, but has a small amount more rigidity through the toe box which is great, but my personal preference as an allrounder shoe is to have that small amount for sensitivity. Hope all that makes sense :)
@@TomOHalloranAus Yeah that makes perfect sense, thanks a lot man 🙏🏼