My Favourite Climbing Shoe for Bouldering | In Depth Gear Review
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- Опубліковано 20 кві 2018
- A Comparison / Analysis of Climbing Shoe Models I currently use, with a Focus on the Five Ten Team, which happens to stand out in terms of Bouldering Performance.
We will go over all kinds of characteristics including materials, shape, sizing, heel hook, toe hook, closure system and more, comparing that with other models like the La Sportiva Solution in order to determine strengths and weaknesses of these models.
Hopefully interesting, but for sure long video, therefore quicklinks:
General Appearance, Sizing, Shape, Materials: 01:15
Performance on different Terrains, Footholds, Hooks: 19:10
Summary and Conclusion: 22:30
As always drop some likes and feedback if you've got something from this review, it helps a lot, and I'll see you soon!
My Favourite Climbing Shoe for Bouldering | In Depth Gear Review by Mani the Monkey
Learned something? Got psyched? If you'd wish to give something back you can do so by joining The Tribe at / manithemonkey or simply drop some beer money at www.paypal.me/ManiTheMonkey , any support is of course highly appreciated.
Climbing Gear I can recommend:
Favourite Bouldering Shoe: goo.gl/n951uE
Favourite Sport Climbing Shoe: goo.gl/kfW9vG
Pretty Awesome Beginner Shoe: goo.gl/1JOnTy
Hangboard I’d buy if I had to: goo.gl/nqqyLj
Favourite Belaying Device: goo.gl/7fRH46
Favourite Harness: goo.gl/1fgWCi
Favourite Quickdraws: goo.gl/hrq9IE
Excellent Approach and Hiking Shoe: goo.gl/ONhUIm
Not Super Expensive but Versatile, Durable and Overall Great Rope: goo.gl/zKdVUL
Top Performance but Expensive Rope: goo.gl/l21Aw7
Crashpad: I use the Mondo from Black Diamond, which is definitely recommendable, but apparently not available from Amazon. If I had to rely on Amazon, I’d get this Beast: goo.gl/PScBhw
Filmmaking Gear I use to create these videos:
My Camera: goo.gl/5jeoOc
My Tripod: goo.gl/OZgaU4
My Microphone: goo.gl/4iYSgY
My Audiorecorder: goo.gl/SxJJuQ
My Editing Machine (using FCPX): goo.gl/Mkv1ix
For those interested in Nutrition:
I wrote a little E-book about my Take on Diet, Health and Weight Loss including a one-week example Meal Plan: goo.gl/cgaux4
Transparency and Disclaimer:
Some of the Links above are Affiliate Links which means that Purchases will grant me a small Commission. Since climbing gear represents a quite small niche, everything is not sold from every single Amazon store, thus not all countries are supported. However the US, UK and Germany are fully covered, you should find all of the recommended gear in these stores. And in case you're not into longer shipping, why not support your local climbing shop :)
manithemonkey on Instagram: / manithemonkey
Mani the Monkey on EpicTV: www.epictv.com/media/series-h...
Mani Hubär on 8a.nu: www.8a.nu/?IncPage=https%3A%2...
Coaching and other Business: plantbasedclimbing@gmail.com
Featured Music:
rei brown - I Can't See You In The Dark - Спорт
Hopefully interesting, but for sure long ass video, therefore quicklinks:
General Appearance, Sizing, Shape, Materials: 01:15
Performance on different Terrains, Footholds, Hooks: 19:10
Summary and Conclusion: 22:30
As always drop some likes and feedback if you've got something from this review, it helps a lot, and I'll see you soon!
Also: FIRST!
Been using the Five Ten Team for half a year now, due to your last shoe video. I really like it.
This video was probably the best climbing shoe review I've seen! Not just what comes to mind but you really thought about every angle. Great work!
This is great man. this is exactly how I feel about my shoes. Ive been experimenting a lot, and I always come back to the teams and the butora acros.
I purchased these because of this review and I am so super happy with them. Thanks Mani!
Thanks Mani. I’ve been contemplating buying these and your review nailed it for me. I found a pair of used/new. I have the Blackwings and totally love them.
Thanks for the review! For those with wider toe boxes/weird feet, the Dragon is a fantastic alternative with similar performance in terms of sensitivity. Not quite as much toe rubber, but the laces help you dial in a much more precise fit. I agree with you about the Solutions; after climbing in Blackwings and Dragons, the Solutions felt clunky and I missed being able to actually feel the rock, although they are great for powering down on small footholds.
Absolutely great review! Its so hard to find proper in depth gear reviews by people who really know the product they're reviewing. Keep them up! I hope you can start to get some free review products. P.s i love you channel ❤
As a guy with really skinny feet, 5.10 has become my go to brand as they fit my feet way better than most, currently using the 5.10 Hiangle which has improved the confidence in my footwork significantly (as compared to my previous Scarpa Vapors)
The Hiangles have a bit more support (stiffer) than compared to the Team, definitely worthwhile having both in your shoe arsenal
might give them another chance (resole them) after watching the review! ;) i also have the problem with the construction weakness, but maybe it does not matter. I will just try how the heel hook performs (can't remember, been a long time) and then decide. I agree with the sizing btw!
I wish five tens fit me properly - I feel like I am missing out! The heel is always baggy, no matter how tight I go since my foot is so wide. My dragons are absolutely great for gritstone and the rubber is sticky as hell, but the heel just deforms and flops over everything.
If anyone else has this problem definitely try out scarpa. The instinct heel is like a suction cup and really solid.
Hey Mani, thanks for the detailed review. Do you think your resoled shoes will perform better on slab/vert due to the thicker rubber? Oh, and it's OK to say "big toe". :)
I'm thinking of buying a pair of these for my cave/ roof project .
Hey Mani, off topic-of-video question here, when you train on the 45 degree wall in your gym, are you making up routes? It seems to just be a random collection of holds so do you make problems that fit the workout you are doing that day or are they set problems? Thanks
Mani so you still use Dragons for route clibming ? And if you are on top gerades you put your 5.10 Teams ? Or you use them only for bouldering ?
Do you think certain batches of shoes made are different to others? Ive had so many of the leather hiangles and as soon as i bought the new synthetic hi angles when they began selling them mine fell about within a few weeks where as a friends pair has had nothing happen to theirs
What do you think about the Scarpa VSR shoe? Have you ever tested them?
So, unfortunately, FiveTen is discontinuing the team... So I would recommend you get as many as possible.
Noah Y really!!! Noooooooo
Ausgezeichnetes Review, danke vielmals! Ich hab eine simple Frage zur Toebox, ich klettere zurzeit mit Katanas und diese fallen vorne pointy wie der Solution aus. Mir half diese Form beim (ich nenne es jetzt einfach) "edgen", sprich einem schmalen Foothold parallel mit der Kante und Spitze des Schuhs mit dem Knie nach aussen oder oben mit ordentlichem Druck zu kontrollieren. Würde die Rundung nicht die "Aggressivität" und somit auch die Funktion stark beeinflussen sobald das Volumen reduziert ist?
Dein Zugang und Beschreibungen sind wirklich hilfreich. Meiner Meinung nach die besten in der Kletterszene! hoffe du genießt ebenfalls das Fahrradwetter in Wien, schönen Samstag :)
Freut mich wenns gefällt, kann mir leider noch nicht so ganz vorstellen was du meinst mit dem reduzierten Volumen und edgen, prinzipiell kann ich sagen dass der Team trotz Rundung sehr aggressiv ausfällt.
How do you re-sole a shoe?
La Sportiva women's Solution is more narrow and tighter. Have you test it.
Hey Mani! Great video! Do you get your shoes resoled? I've undestood when the rubber is wasted you buy another instead resoling the shoes
Sometimes I resole, but mostly I don't. I will go for it more often I think because these 5.10 Team turned out great.
Thank, great review! Where did you do you resolve? I‘m also Vienna based, so I would like to resolve my 510 as well..
The company is called Saltic I think (Europe only, I don't know where you can do this in the USA). We always send them in bulk, I think then you save the transport costs.
All the 5.10 high performance shoes are too small for my feet. The width (or lack thereof) really hurts my feet and hinders my climbing. I can't even stand on them.
Recently found the La Sportiva Maverink. It's a kids shoe and looks and feels like the La Sportiva Speedster, but without any tensioning. Basically feels like a sock. Even though they're a bit smaller than the Skwama width wise, they have become my go-to shoe because they're so comfy. Feels like I'm wearing a sock.
What are some stores you can buy climbing shoes ....
Great review! The Five Ten model I see the most around here is the Hiangle. Any opinion on those?
I see them very often as well, but haven't tried them so far.
I have bought them after using the 5.10 Team for half a year. I wanted to try a shoe which is a bit stiffer so the Hiangle Synthetic was my choice. Super comfortable - instantly more comfortable than my 5.10 Team after I wore them half a year - but I'd still choose the 5.10 Team over the Hiangle. I feel like the 5.10 Team has less weaknesses. While you can do pretty much everything with the 5.10 Team the Hiangle is strictly worse for toe-hooking and smearing. I'd prefer it over the team for indoor sport climbing but not much else.
Never had such a similar opinion
i was looking at this shoe but the rubber just wont last long enough becasue it is soo thin. i feel like there will be holes in the toes in a couple of months
Mine lasted about four months before they have shown the first damage but my footwork isn't the best. I was climbing 3-4 times a week 2-3 hours in the gym during that time. I'd assume this is an average lifespan for shoes with my technique since I climb a lot of volume. My last ones, Ocun Ozone, didn't last longer.
Hello do u know where can i buy these Shoes i from France
Hey Mani, have you tried any la sport "no edge" shoes? If so what is your opinion on them?
They are very soft, thin and down-turned like this shoe. I have a hard time returning to a harder/thicker toe after wearing them.
They are quite wide though, which fits me well but you maybe find them uncomfortable.
Just curious!
I used to climb in the speedster a lot. That was in my early days when I still was a complete gym rat. They felt good though, nothing really to complain about, as far as I remember. But I think I'd like the 5.10 Team better from todays perspective.
The speedster is truly a bomb for bouldering. Not perfect cause it's a slipper but the durability is awesome and I got used to the no-edge sensation. I'm a true sportiva fan boy, but they fit my foot so nicely it's hard to even think about buying anything else.
Magnus Midtboe have been using them in first vlogs and switched to Scarpa Dragos. Any thoughts on new Scarpa models? Did You consider/try them out?
So far I have no scarpa experience, but I'd like to give them a try in the future, and then I will give my 2 cents on them :)
There dope, I love their line. I would recommend the drago for steep bouldering. and the instinct VS for a all around shoe.
Hei Mani, have you tried the scarpa instinct vs/vsr or similar scarpa shoes? What's your opinion on them?
I have tried a 5.10 shoe but its heel is to large for my feet. The instincts are my favorite shoes because my heels seem to be vacuum sucked into the shoes. Also I like that thr instincts are great for hooks but also viable on small edges.
I agree with you. Scarpa heel is amazing. The heel in these 5.10 teams is so baggy, and they're impossible to put on at the start of the day. Must just be a foot shape thing.
Unfortunately I have almost no scarpa experience, I think that might be something to try out in the future, then I will give my 2 cents in the form of a review video :)
i actually like the old instinct with laces (the red one) more than the Velcro version. The velcro is very comfortable and solid, but toe sensibility in the laces is unmatched imo. i have no experience with the new lace version though
All the reviews I looked at said that the laces actually sawed through the eyelets. Did you have that experience?
Hello Mani, I have one five ten team size 41,5, are you interested by it? Or it's to much tigh for you?
I’m interested in it
🐱👤 It would be interesting for me to see how much you are setting up your toes in the climbing shoe... showing at standing without the shoe.
I guess you have an offset of minimum 20 mm compared to flat standing.
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C'est hallucinant !!.. 26 minutes watching a guy talking about his feet and l want some more !!.. Allo docteur ?!..
My friend is selling a brand new pair in size 42, I can help shipping it to you if you are interested
Hey Mani!
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These are extinct nowadays :(
the solution are made with animal skin! are you vegan?
SteffeStolpskott the 5.10 are vegan but i m Talking about la sportiva solution!
the hiangle of 5.10 isnt vegan as well