That is really good, helpful info and helps explain what is going on with my old Mercury l6. The thing is, it is a bad idea to disconnect the battery with the engine running. The alternator will have no load and toast the rectifier. But hey, if that turned out to be your problem, you were going to trash it anyway.
Brother I wish you were in my neck of the woods, I've got a 1997 Suzuki DT115 with no fire at all driving my nuts! It's hard to drop $1300 on a CDI not being able to test it to determine if it is actually the CDI, I bought the factory Manual and it show to need a $500 tester to test it, and to top it off the Factory Manual doesn't match up to the Wiring color code wiring showing the Motor is suppose to have a ECU not a CDI which are wired differently with more wires than the CDI. I've been pulling my hair out throwing my hat at it and calling several names LOL
Was looking for typical charging voltage on an older Johnson 55 horse. Watched this. It’s ok but with a Merc of you disconnect the battery with the engine running chances are you will need a new rectifier if that’s not what was wrong to begin with. But if it’s not the rectifier then chances are it’s the stator or wiring in which case the battery was already effectively disconnected.
I changed the stator. However, the engine still stops when I disconnect the battery, what could the next cause possibly be in the diagnostics? Thank you for helpful video!
Thank you very much for your help.. I have another engine. evinrude etech 30 hp coils are not receiving energy. We tried 3 ECUs. It is a steering system, but it is not connected to the steering wheel at the moment, we are just connecting the cables to the battery and trying it. They say it will not work without connecting the ignition key. Hello, good day my friend..
Thanks for the awesome video! You recommended just replacing the stator if the motor shuts off after being disconnected from the battery. Can you elaborate on that a bit or is it just a no brainer to start with buying a new stator? Thanks!
On my boat I have two 2018 df 140. In one of them I got the code 1-1. The gage reads 17V average. It goes up and down from 15.6Vto 17.8V. When I start the engine, it shows 11.2V and after a minute or so goes up to 17v like I describe above. I cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. I purchased and installed a new rectifier regulator. I switched the batteries. The problem is still there. What else I can do?
Thanks Captain 👩✈️. I just got the timer base(trigger) I installed and boom 💥 got spark now on first cylinder and rest of them you are the man. still I have problem I saw when I got it, spin slow. I thought was the starter I opened and looks good all brushes in place good size pretty clean inside.if I left one spark plug spin fast like it should but If I connect one more spin really slow. I think am close finally to fix this sh…. What do think 🤔 can be Sr? The battery is 12.60v.
@@CAPTAINWILLY no, it was like that, I mean when connect all spark plugs. But thanks to to you I did the diagnostic and fix about the spark in first cylinder.
Question. My mercury 50hp 2strock will start sometimes but for the most part doesn’t start. I took the spark plugs out and started turn over like a brand new one but after I put them back in my starter will drag and the boat want start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
@@CAPTAINWILLY no I have two brand new batteries and 2 new plugs. I ever took my jumping cables and hook the two new batteries together but it would still drag. But I went out there today and it was try to start off of one battery but it never started and after about 3 time it started dragging again. It’s blowing my mind
Nice video Captain!!! like always, I would like help with my outboard motor, is an old evinrude 1976 70 hp 3 cylinder 2 strokes, I bought used, previous owner told me no spark in first cylinder, he said is power pack, but I saw your videos first to check some components before star buying stuff , I check compression is good, check spark and no spark on first as he said, but if change the wire from coil 1 to coil 2 and I get spark in number 1, I thought is coil and replace it. but still the same no spark, power pack new, and rectifier because the red wire is almost cut was holding only couple string. I wanna make sure if its the stator or timer base. The motor without sparkplugs spin like it should, or with one or two I think buy if connect the 3 sparkplug barely spin!, I would like to record some videos how act this thing and if you can help to diagnose I would like to pay for your help. I think will a another option to make money Captain charge for diagnose outboard motor video call or something like that. Pls let me know what do u think Sr. Thanks for share your skills
Ok. So now it's going to take trading trigger or "timer wires" that go into the cdi. So let's just say forr example. Red wire from trigger signals the cdi to fire number one. And yellow wire signals cdi to fire two. Put the coil wires back to stock. Find trigger input to cdi for each cylinder. Then trade. Yellow from trigger will go into red at cdi with red disconnected then see if there is spark out of coil one.
The first test with moving signals around on the coils proves the coils are good So trading trigger wires at cdi trigger inputt will tell you if the cdi or the trigger is bad. Either way you know at this point there is no signal from cdi to coil one. Need to know if it's a lack of cdi or is the cdi lacking info from the triggger
If you move number twos signal from trigger to cdis trigger input for number one and still nothing from number one coil. Cdi is bad. If your move number twos signal into cdis numbers one then coil has outputt. Bam badd trigger
2007 250 hp 4 stroke not sending enough power it’s 3 voltage to the engine to crank the engine and it’s not starting . I need some help if you can . I am new to this Thank you In advance
i got a suzuki dt40hp 2 stroke. I can't find a rectifier for it and the one guy suggest that i get a 4 pin bridge ac to dc bridge rectifier. I've hooked it up and it gives me about 8volts on idle (DC) and if i increase my throttle the voltage go up to about 15volts. my question is should the voltage for the rectifier be at 12volt on idle or is it fine at 8volts? Bare in mind the positive is not connected to the battery and is tested on the volt meter. (Not charging the battery). I'm going to connect it tomorrow to the solenoid so that it can charge the battery. i just want to know what the voltage need to be at the idle for the rectifier?
@@CAPTAINWILLY ive just recheck my voltage coming out the magneto. Yellow = 4v ac Red = 4v ac Blue = 26v ac The blue is connected to the cdi box. Should i bridge the cable and connect yellow and blue to the rectifier?
@@CAPTAINWILLY i've had a spare solar charge controller that can take 25A. I've hooked that up to the bridge rectifier and when the boat goes to about 3500rpm i'm getting 15volts out of it. The solar charge controller will charge the battery at 14volts. (on idle it's not charging) but as soon as rpm increases the battery is being charged. i'll test it on Wednesday at the dam to see how it works, will let you know.
You don't get digital voltmeters for free or even 5 bucks at horror freight. Those are little analog ones. They'll work though. I've got several free ones.
Being a mechanic (auto, not marine) this was Super easy to follow and super useful! Thanks a million my man! First rounds on me 🍻
That is really good, helpful info and helps explain what is going on with my old Mercury l6.
The thing is, it is a bad idea to disconnect the battery with the engine running. The alternator will have no load and toast the rectifier. But hey, if that turned out to be your problem, you were going to trash it anyway.
I bought my Fluke in 1992. I'm a professional mechanic. Use it almost daily. Still works after 30 years.
Hey man thank you for fixing my snow machine for me, hello from Alaska
Heell yessss.
Thanks for fast reply Captain, I’ll do some test tomorrow and see what’s going on thanks 🙏
Brother I wish you were in my neck of the woods, I've got a 1997 Suzuki DT115 with no fire at all driving my nuts! It's hard to drop $1300 on a CDI not being able to test it to determine if it is actually the CDI, I bought the factory Manual and it show to need a $500 tester to test it, and to top it off the Factory Manual doesn't match up to the Wiring color code wiring showing the Motor is suppose to have a ECU not a CDI which are wired differently with more wires than the CDI. I've been pulling my hair out throwing my hat at it and calling several names LOL
Watching this is just plain painful.
And so is your comment
Was looking for typical charging voltage on an older Johnson 55 horse. Watched this. It’s ok but with a Merc of you disconnect the battery with the engine running chances are you will need a new rectifier if that’s not what was wrong to begin with. But if it’s not the rectifier then chances are it’s the stator or wiring in which case the battery was already effectively disconnected.
Great video .. simple easy to follow .. got som testing to do
love the dogs and redbulls
thanks for the info
I changed the stator. However, the engine still stops when I disconnect the battery, what could the next cause possibly be in the diagnostics? Thank you for helpful video!
Thank you very much for your help.. I have another engine. evinrude etech 30 hp coils are not receiving energy. We tried 3 ECUs. It is a steering system, but it is not connected to the steering wheel at the moment, we are just connecting the cables to the battery and trying it. They say it will not work without connecting the ignition key. Hello, good day my friend..
Thanks for the video. What if I don´t have AC voltage on the two green whires that come from the charge coil on a Yamaha two stroke?
I'm trying to follow. Get some more distrations and make this a good buddy vidio.
Thanks for the awesome video! You recommended just replacing the stator if the motor shuts off after being disconnected from the battery. Can you elaborate on that a bit or is it just a no brainer to start with buying a new stator? Thanks!
Awesome thanks for the video
No Spark on a Suzuki is a whole different game than on a Merc, Johnson or Evinrude at least thats what I'm finding anyway.
On my boat I have two 2018 df 140. In one of them I got the code 1-1. The gage reads 17V average. It goes up and down from 15.6Vto 17.8V. When I start the engine, it shows 11.2V and after a minute or so goes up to 17v like I describe above. I cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. I purchased and installed a new rectifier regulator. I switched the batteries. The problem is still there. What else I can do?
Thanks Captain 👩✈️. I just got the timer base(trigger) I installed and boom 💥 got spark now on first cylinder and rest of them you are the man. still I have problem I saw when I got it, spin slow. I thought was the starter I opened and looks good all brushes in place good size pretty clean inside.if I left one spark plug spin fast like it should but If I connect one more spin really slow. I think am close finally to fix this sh…. What do think 🤔 can be Sr? The battery is 12.60v.
So it spins slower when connecting spark plug wires. That's sttrrange
@@CAPTAINWILLY no, it was like that, I mean when connect all spark plugs. But thanks to to you I did the diagnostic and fix about the spark in first cylinder.
Can you tell me what battery cable specifications l need for a Yamaha 55hp 2 stroke motor?
30 hp etech marine engine does not charge the battery. What can I do? I wish you a good day, my friend
Question. My mercury 50hp 2strock will start sometimes but for the most part doesn’t start. I took the spark plugs out and started turn over like a brand new one but after I put them back in my starter will drag and the boat want start. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Sounds like a lack of power. How's your battery. Due to engine compression it will crank much slower with spark plugs in it. As it should
@@CAPTAINWILLY no I have two brand new batteries and 2 new plugs. I ever took my jumping cables and hook the two new batteries together but it would still drag.
But I went out there today and it was try to start off of one battery but it never started and after about 3 time it started dragging again.
It’s blowing my mind
So a bad stator can cause a no start? Turns but no boom
@@taylenalinger9216 yup iv got a video on this channel explaining how it all works
Please tell me if the diagnostic connectors for Honda and Tohatsu are the same?
Not until 2019 models
Hopefully I can figure mine out today
Omg, just get to it
I have a 2000 Evinrude 9.9 outboard four stroke runs fine for one minute then goes into a limp mode spudders doesn’t rev what do you think
Sounds like a heat effected coil
Bro... thanks
Nice video Captain!!! like always, I would like help with my outboard motor, is an old evinrude 1976 70 hp 3 cylinder 2 strokes, I bought used, previous owner told me no spark in first cylinder, he said is power pack, but I saw your videos first to check some components before star buying stuff , I check compression is good, check spark and no spark on first as he said, but if change the wire from coil 1 to coil 2 and I get spark in number 1, I thought is coil and replace it. but still the same no spark, power pack new, and rectifier because the red wire is almost cut was holding only couple string. I wanna make sure if its the stator or timer base. The motor without sparkplugs spin like it should, or with one or two I think buy if connect the 3 sparkplug barely spin!, I would like to record some videos how act this thing and if you can help to diagnose I would like to pay for your help. I think will a another option to make money Captain charge for diagnose outboard motor video call or something like that. Pls let me know what do u think Sr. Thanks for share your skills
Oh boy. Lol. So your able to get spark out of cylinder 1 when moving coil signal wire off of coil 2 onto coil one?
@@CAPTAINWILLY yes
Ok. So now it's going to take trading trigger or "timer wires" that go into the cdi. So let's just say forr example. Red wire from trigger signals the cdi to fire number one. And yellow wire signals cdi to fire two. Put the coil wires back to stock. Find trigger input to cdi for each cylinder. Then trade. Yellow from trigger will go into red at cdi with red disconnected then see if there is spark out of coil one.
The first test with moving signals around on the coils proves the coils are good
So trading trigger wires at cdi trigger inputt will tell you if the cdi or the trigger is bad. Either way you know at this point there is no signal from cdi to coil one. Need to know if it's a lack of cdi or is the cdi lacking info from the triggger
If you move number twos signal from trigger to cdis trigger input for number one and still nothing from number one coil. Cdi is bad. If your move number twos signal into cdis numbers one then coil has outputt. Bam badd trigger
2007 250 hp 4 stroke not sending enough power it’s 3 voltage to the engine to crank the engine and it’s not starting . I need some help if you can . I am new to this
Thank you In advance
Checking power on both side of the starter soliniod what do ya got. During crank. How much power on the small wire on the soliniod
The only thing is my 99 df 70 isn't as "haywired" as your two stroke
i got a suzuki dt40hp 2 stroke. I can't find a rectifier for it and the one guy suggest that i get a 4 pin bridge ac to dc bridge rectifier. I've hooked it up and it gives me about 8volts on idle (DC) and if i increase my throttle the voltage go up to about 15volts. my question is should the voltage for the rectifier be at 12volt on idle or is it fine at 8volts? Bare in mind the positive is not connected to the battery and is tested on the volt meter. (Not charging the battery). I'm going to connect it tomorrow to the solenoid so that it can charge the battery.
i just want to know what the voltage need to be at the idle for the rectifier?
Your stator should have a idle coil amd a high rpm coil. It should be 13 at idle.
@@CAPTAINWILLY ive just recheck my voltage coming out the magneto.
Yellow = 4v ac
Red = 4v ac
Blue = 26v ac
The blue is connected to the cdi box. Should i bridge the cable and connect yellow and blue to the rectifier?
@@coeniejvr no. IL have to do some research
@@CAPTAINWILLY i've had a spare solar charge controller that can take 25A.
I've hooked that up to the bridge rectifier and when the boat goes to about 3500rpm i'm getting 15volts out of it. The solar charge controller will charge the battery at 14volts. (on idle it's not charging) but as soon as rpm increases the battery is being charged.
i'll test it on Wednesday at the dam to see how it works, will let you know.
You don't get digital voltmeters for free or even 5 bucks at horror freight. Those are little analog ones. They'll work though. I've got several free ones.
What a mess find the rectifier never disconnect the battery with engine running
Can you row a motorboat?
Oh ya. Iv had to do it a few times.