Thank you for guiding me through diagnosing my no-charging issue on our 700 Grizzly! The stator was toast. I ordered on the link below and was running in no time! You just saved me probably $700.00 total if I would have gone to the dealership and having them diagnose and repair! Much appreciated Matt!
You are welcome! Comments like this keep me making videos! I am glad you were able to fix the problem. These things are pretty easy to work on. It just takes a little time and know how.
A good general rule is with the engine running and the stator disconnected, it will put out 10acv for every 1000rpm (example at 4000rpm=40acv of output) If this is the case the stator is ok. The other check is with the engine off - check for continuity from wire to wire to wire (any combo of two) there should continuity. Then check each white wire to ground, there should be NO continuity! If these checks are ok, the stator is not bad and the regulator/rectifier is bad!
probably I'm experiencing the same problem shown in this video, I've ordered a new regulator/rectifier, I hope it will solve the problem, thanks a lot for this helpful video
Hey y'all! Check the links in the description for the most common makes/models ATV ignition PARTS! As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Hey Matt - good vid. Thanks for posting your stator voltage measurement. Like you I can't find anything about what it should be for my 2001 Yamaha Big Bear - but my output is the very close to what you are seeing. I don't have a charging problem - even with the lights on at idle the battery holds at over 14VDC. In your experience have you seen a stator have issues when it gets hot? My engine will just cut out sometimes - like you turned off the switch - and usually when that happens you will get a backfire. Usually starts back up in 15 minutes and runs fine - I run the ATV so little I don't know what it would do if I used it for 30 or 45 mintues. I've have all of the voltages baselined (stator, CDI voltage input, CDI pulse input, CDI output to coil so I'm waiting for it to die again so I can narrow it down. RMSTATOR makes a peak voltage adapter for your VOM if you are not aware of it. With it you can use your VOM to measure CDI pulse input and CDI output to coil. Here is my pulse input voltage at cranking, idle, and with the engine running fast: 5.5VDC 9VDC 15VDC. And here is the output to the coil: 2.25VDC 2.36VDC 3.1VDC. I suspect yours will be close to that. The pulse input from stator - and the CDI output to coil - is not a sine wave - which is what a VOM on AC is designed to meature. You might see some millivolt for the pulse - and nothing for the output to the coil - with just a VOM meter...hope this is helpful.
I couldn't see clearly how you were testing the stator. Was it positive probe of the VOM into each of the three terminals, with the negative into any other terminal that a positive probe is not in at the time?
Basically, it's AC power it doesn't matter which probes are where. As long as they are reading each phase. I believe this stator was 3 phase. That means you test each phase to see if its good.
Your bike sounds good 👍 But i just bought a brand new Regulator Rectifier, tested it fresh out of the box, and oddly, the multimeter showed no measurements! weird right?
The regulator is mostly just a rectifier that uses 4 diodes to convert the current from AC to DC, along with a capacitor bank to maintain a steady voltage output so if youre geting erratic DC voltage, your problems with the regulator. The stators on these are about as simple as they get and typically when they go bad you'll see, and often smell, obvious signs of damage. If its burnt then the windings need replaced but if you just have a problem with one leg, its just a broken lead. That can be repaired like any broken electrical connection and you can even get a spray can of wire enamel if the coils just need to be reinsulated. Its literally just enameled copper wire wrapped around each leg of a star shaped chunk of iron that alternates its rotational direction from one leg to the next...its not anymore difficult to fix than any other component.
@@mattstacy1652 sure if its a 3 phase generator because it requires 2 diodes to capture a full wave from each phase but the laws of physics do not limit the engineers to just 3 phases either so It could take more than 6 if engineered to generate more than 3 phases.... though the requirements of an internal combustion engine on a machine as simple as an ATV cannot possibly justify the complexity of rectifying that many circuits..... there just isnt enough individual loads being placed on the power source to require the split phases because theres nothing to balance once the starter motor is disengaged, which is driven by the battery's storage capacity anyways and has nothing to do with the motor driven generator.
I have a sxs and 1 night we rode went to sleep and woke up to my sxs almost on fire something shorted out so now I take battery cable off everytime it's going to be setting without me right there by it anyway I want to put a breaker on it NOT FOR PROTECTION but just to kill all power so I don't have to keep putting cables on and off a ac breaker would fit best in space I have what do yall recommend I use thanks in advance....
That is a little flat blade connector to multimeter adapter. It allows you to plug into a connector without having to jam a multimeter probe pin in the connector. Good eye!
I have one (50cc) that will run fine with no battery, and headlight comes on when it's running without a battery. so that leads me to think the stator is doing it's job but as soon as I put a battery on it the charge wire gets red hot and it drains the battery. To me it sounds like a regulator? But then again. I don't mess with atvs much. Any opinions?
The charge wire gets red hot??? That's not good. Something is wrong for sure. I'd check the voltage coming out of the regulator with a multimeter. Is this a Chinese ATV? They might have it wired weird.
I tested the regulator it was 448 440 438 I checked the stator it seems to be sending power it gos up to around 60, also when I take off the battery cable while running it does after a second or two, when I turn on the switch it sounds like the relays clicking and fuel pump makes small clicking noise also but it does it randomly if I hook up buster cable to it.......does this means the regulator is bad.......thanks for the info it's a big help, 2009 Yamaha grizzly 700fi
Ok well I’ve replaced the voltage regulator and I got the stator tested they said it’s good but the battery still isn’t charging I can boost it off and ride for a little bit and the battery dies not sure what else could be the issue please help if you can
The last thing you need to with your meter, is make a voltage check directly on the battery terminals. To see if it is showing that it is receiving charge.
I was getting spark but the system was not charging, I could pull start it but when it gets hot the fan would not kick on so I change the stater it fired Up then died now I have no spark, tells me bad stater that I have?? Polaris 425 4 x 2 Magnum , I have the other except exact model took the coil off to make sure swapped it still no spark?Any more info would really help me out thanks
I'd regroup and start with the basics. Have you checked the voltages coming out of the stator like I showed in this video? Were the flywheel magnets good? Sometimes they can crack or come unglued. You can't generate a spark without good flywheel magnets.
Another way to test if the charging system works is by starting the quad and disconnecting the battery. If it quits running then there is a problem with the Charing system
Hey, on my Grizzly 700 been running great, battery just replaced a month ago, but I was clearing some logs with my winch in neutral with the brake on and it died then it started but I kept losing juice eventually it was dead jumped it threw the meter on it and watched the voltage start counting down. I am going to dig into it tomorrow, but it seems like the extra draw of the winch under strain caused this to happen. Is that possible?
Yea late getting back but the stator was fried replaced the regulator rectifier also and I'm back in business I don't think I will use the winch that consistently puts too much strain on the Stator.
Hi, what are your thoughts on testing the voltage with the battery disconnected? I have a polaris xplorer that runs about 6 volts idling when checking the battery cables with no battery in. At around 2500 rpms it is about 14 volts. Is this normal? Thanks for any input.
You can check the voltage with the battery disconnected. That would be a good test. If you are getting 6 Volts at idle that seems REALLY low. Did you ever get this fixed?
Thanks for this video, We're having a problem with my Grandson's trx 250 the guy we bought it from said he put a new battery in it 3-4 weeks ago and then it went dead,Hope this will solve the problem
Is your carburetor clean? Maybe the valves are out of adjustment? Have you checked the compression? It should start with starting fluid. Have you looked on forums to see what people are saying that own that model?
I adjusted the valves it gets good compression and spark I sprayed starting fluid in it I replaced carb with new one I replaced plug and coil but I cant get it to start still and when I take the plug out it seems dry like nothing is getting to it no fuel or starting fluid or anything it's a clean kart it didnt get run hard it just died one day and havent been able to start it since
Did you check the coil armature air gap? The space between the coil and the flywheel magnet? I've had spark but it was weak because the gap was wrong. You can go through the carb again with a small copper wire to poke out the orifices in the carb body. I've missed stuff like that before. Even though you said you replaced it. Check the compression too
He said he didnt know what voltage the stator output ... once you know you either have a bad regulator or bad wires....the factory spec he referred to was the resistance of the actual regulator
HEY MAN IVE GOT 1999 ARCTIC CAT 500 THAT IM TRYING TO CHECK THE STATOR BECAUSE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR I BELIEVE LEAK ELECTRICAL SMELL FLUID OUT OF IT I NEED A CONNECTOR VIEW WAS WONDERING WHERE TO FIND A VIEW
I have a 4 x 4 wheeler that has a new stator, regulator rectifier and battery but will not charge the battery. Stator is putting out 80 volts AC when I step on the gas. Have tried 2 new voltage rectifiers and both do not charge the battery. Any ideas why? Thanks, AJ.
This is going to sound dumb, but have you checked the fuses? Have you checked for corrosion or maybe rat/mice chewed wires. There MIGHT be a bad fuse that is hidden or hard to get at.
@@MattsShop 81 suzuki 750..ya its all over the place but never higher than 13 volts but ive been able to ride all summer ..have to get me like you said new stater
@@MattsShop im not gona do anything with it cause it still keeps my battery charged but i just know the volts are on the low side..common problem with cycles
+Beastwood 2 Positive on charger to positive on battery. Negative on charger to negative on battery. Make sure you don't hook it up backwards. You can download a free manual from Yamaha's website I'm pretty sure.
Thank you for guiding me through diagnosing my no-charging issue on our 700 Grizzly! The stator was toast. I ordered on the link below and was running in no time! You just saved me probably $700.00 total if I would have gone to the dealership and having them diagnose and repair! Much appreciated Matt!
You are welcome! Comments like this keep me making videos! I am glad you were able to fix the problem. These things are pretty easy to work on. It just takes a little time and know how.
Instablaster...
Thank you! This has helped me. I get nothing to the battle when running so it’s either the stator or rectifier. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Great video and to be honest I could have sworn I was listening to Nick Diaz from the UFC guiding us through this.
I'm Nick Diaz!
A good general rule is with the engine running and the stator disconnected, it will put out 10acv for every 1000rpm (example at 4000rpm=40acv of output) If this is the case the stator is ok. The other check is with the engine off - check for continuity from wire to wire to wire (any combo of two) there should continuity. Then check each white wire to ground, there should be NO continuity! If these checks are ok, the stator is not bad and the regulator/rectifier is bad!
Good to know, thanks for the info. I didn't know there as a rule of thumb for this.
Extremely common on Yamahas.
I loat count on how many rectifiers my 90 FZR 600 went through😂
Good vid bud👍🏻
probably I'm experiencing the same problem shown in this video, I've ordered a new regulator/rectifier, I hope it will solve the problem, thanks a lot for this helpful video
Good luck!
Hey y'all! Check the links in the description for the most common makes/models ATV ignition PARTS!
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
excellent video.very informative without a lot of tech jargon.
Glad you liked it!
Hey Matt - good vid. Thanks for posting your stator voltage measurement. Like you I can't find anything about what it should be for my 2001 Yamaha Big Bear - but my output is the very close to what you are seeing. I don't have a charging problem - even with the lights on at idle the battery holds at over 14VDC. In your experience have you seen a stator have issues when it gets hot? My engine will just cut out sometimes - like you turned off the switch - and usually when that happens you will get a backfire. Usually starts back up in 15 minutes and runs fine - I run the ATV so little I don't know what it would do if I used it for 30 or 45 mintues. I've have all of the voltages baselined (stator, CDI voltage input, CDI pulse input, CDI output to coil so I'm waiting for it to die again so I can narrow it down. RMSTATOR makes a peak voltage adapter for your VOM if you are not aware of it. With it you can use your VOM to measure CDI pulse input and CDI output to coil. Here is my pulse input voltage at cranking, idle, and with the engine running fast: 5.5VDC 9VDC 15VDC.
And here is the output to the coil: 2.25VDC 2.36VDC 3.1VDC. I suspect yours will be close to that. The pulse input from stator - and the CDI output to coil - is not a sine wave - which is what a VOM on AC is designed to meature. You might see some millivolt for the pulse - and nothing for the output to the coil - with just a VOM meter...hope this is helpful.
Always good to test. Much easier replacing the regulator than the stator haha
Yea, for sure. The stators are a PAIN to get to on these. You have to drain the coolant, oil, and take the side cover off of the motor. Not fun.
Thank you so much my ATV has not been working but now it’s fine
You're welcome!
I couldn't see clearly how you were testing the stator. Was it positive probe of the VOM into each of the three terminals, with the negative into any other terminal that a positive probe is not in at the time?
Basically, it's AC power it doesn't matter which probes are where. As long as they are reading each phase. I believe this stator was 3 phase. That means you test each phase to see if its good.
@@MattsShop Can the black probe be on an engine ground, and the red probe inserted in each of the three terminals?
Your bike sounds good 👍 But i just bought a brand new Regulator Rectifier, tested it fresh out of the box, and oddly, the multimeter showed no measurements! weird right?
about to head outside and try this out, already got a new stator thou so hopefully its not the rectifier thingy haha.
The regulator is mostly just a rectifier that uses 4 diodes to convert the current from AC to DC, along with a capacitor bank to maintain a steady voltage output so if youre geting erratic DC voltage, your problems with the regulator. The stators on these are about as simple as they get and typically when they go bad you'll see, and often smell, obvious signs of damage. If its burnt then the windings need replaced but if you just have a problem with one leg, its just a broken lead. That can be repaired like any broken electrical connection and you can even get a spray can of wire enamel if the coils just need to be reinsulated. Its literally just enameled copper wire wrapped around each leg of a star shaped chunk of iron that alternates its rotational direction from one leg to the next...its not anymore difficult to fix than any other component.
Yep.. sometimes 6 diodes
@@mattstacy1652 sure if its a 3 phase generator because it requires 2 diodes to capture a full wave from each phase but the laws of physics do not limit the engineers to just 3 phases either so It could take more than 6 if engineered to generate more than 3 phases.... though the requirements of an internal combustion engine on a machine as simple as an ATV cannot possibly justify the complexity of rectifying that many circuits..... there just isnt enough individual loads being placed on the power source to require the split phases because theres nothing to balance once the starter motor is disengaged, which is driven by the battery's storage capacity anyways and has nothing to do with the motor driven generator.
I have a sxs and 1 night we rode went to sleep and woke up to my sxs almost on fire something shorted out so now I take battery cable off everytime it's going to be setting without me right there by it anyway I want to put a breaker on it NOT FOR PROTECTION but just to kill all power so I don't have to keep putting cables on and off a ac breaker would fit best in space I have what do yall recommend I use thanks in advance....
Would one of these work?: amzn.to/3oFOYCL
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
whats with the red & black wires together with the shrink wrap, next to red test lead ?
That is a little flat blade connector to multimeter adapter. It allows you to plug into a connector without having to jam a multimeter probe pin in the connector. Good eye!
I have one (50cc) that will run fine with no battery, and headlight comes on when it's running without a battery. so that leads me to think the stator is doing it's job but as soon as I put a battery on it the charge wire gets red hot and it drains the battery. To me it sounds like a regulator? But then again. I don't mess with atvs much. Any opinions?
The charge wire gets red hot??? That's not good. Something is wrong for sure. I'd check the voltage coming out of the regulator with a multimeter. Is this a Chinese ATV? They might have it wired weird.
I’m having issue with a 2016 cub cadet 750 utv. Voltage will increase very little when u accelerate but overall it slowly just drains voltage.
Your parts listed, are all the Kawasaki parts the same? I have a 2011 Kawasaki Mule 610…
I'd double check the part numbers. Some models use the same parts.
Shouldn’t the 3phase voltage of the 3 legs be equal?
I tested the regulator it was 448 440 438 I checked the stator it seems to be sending power it gos up to around 60, also when I take off the battery cable while running it does after a second or two, when I turn on the switch it sounds like the relays clicking and fuel pump makes small clicking noise also but it does it randomly if I hook up buster cable to it.......does this means the regulator is bad.......thanks for the info it's a big help, 2009 Yamaha grizzly 700fi
Thank you so much you saved me a lot of money on my bombardier Outlander 330 trx ... same issue resolved thanks to your video
Awesome!
Ok well I’ve replaced the voltage regulator and I got the stator tested they said it’s good but the battery still isn’t charging I can boost it off and ride for a little bit and the battery dies not sure what else could be the issue please help if you can
The last thing you need to with your meter, is make a voltage check directly on the battery terminals. To see if it is showing that it is receiving charge.
It was. Pretty sure I showed that in this vid.
I was getting spark but the system was not charging, I could pull start it but when it gets hot the fan would not kick on so I change the stater it fired Up then died now I have no spark, tells me bad stater that I have?? Polaris 425 4 x 2 Magnum , I have the other except exact model took the coil off to make sure swapped it still no spark?Any more info would really help me out thanks
I'd regroup and start with the basics. Have you checked the voltages coming out of the stator like I showed in this video?
Were the flywheel magnets good? Sometimes they can crack or come unglued. You can't generate a spark without good flywheel magnets.
Matt's Shop Thank You!! Going to go through it right now :-)
Another way to test if the charging system works is by starting the quad and disconnecting the battery. If it quits running then there is a problem with the Charing system
Yea, that could work. It could stall and shut off though. This ATV likes to do that sometimes and the charging system is good soo....
He already knows there's a problem with the starting system. He's diagnosing it to figure out which component needs to be replaced
I got a 04 Polaris sportsman 400.
I added a boss audio speaker and after that it wouldn't charge, is it possible that I burnt something up?
Prolly blew a fuse.
Ok thank you.
You got my respect for answering a comment after 2 years.
I'll check the fuse box and try that.
Hey, on my Grizzly 700 been running great, battery just replaced a month ago, but I was clearing some logs with my winch in neutral with the brake on and it died then it started but I kept losing juice eventually it was dead jumped it threw the meter on it and watched the voltage start counting down. I am going to dig into it tomorrow, but it seems like the extra draw of the winch under strain caused this to happen. Is that possible?
IDK, winches can put a lot of strain on the battery. If you don't have a good charging system it's gonna cause problems.
Yea late getting back but the stator was fried replaced the regulator rectifier also and I'm back in business I don't think I will use the winch that consistently puts too much strain on the Stator.
Good video it helped me fix mine thank you
You're welcome!
Awesome video Matt
Awesome person Larry!
Hi, what are your thoughts on testing the voltage with the battery disconnected? I have a polaris xplorer that runs about 6 volts idling when checking the battery cables with no battery in. At around 2500 rpms it is about 14 volts. Is this normal? Thanks for any input.
You can check the voltage with the battery disconnected. That would be a good test. If you are getting 6 Volts at idle that seems REALLY low. Did you ever get this fixed?
Have a hisun massimo charging issues. We're do I start
Is that a Chinese model? If so, it could be a challenge finding service literature. You need to start at the stator like this.
"lets get that connector off there and see what we got" What connector off of where which one?
Take the connector off of the rectifier/regulator and check it. There's two of them. Test which ever one I did in this video.
Great info, thanks mate.
Good clear vid thanks learned something 😊
Glad to hear it!
thanks a lot i hope it help me
You're welcome! It will!
Well done man...
Thanks!
I can fix this now -thanks !
Does the tao 250 have an alternator
You mean a stator? Yes, it has to in order to run.
@@MattsShop thanks - I read up on it and wow there is everything you could want to know. I'm a new owner and going thru a learning phase.
I have a 1987 Yamaha Big Bear... No self charge system was installed on it...
If it doesn't have a battery. Then it doesn't have a charging system.
Good video also brother !!
Thanks for this video, We're having a problem with my Grandson's trx 250 the guy we bought it from said he put a new battery in it 3-4 weeks ago and then it went dead,Hope this will solve the problem
You will fix it!
I have a 110 kandi gokart I get spark and gas but wont start I even used starting fluid and still wont fire I've tried everything what could it be
Is your carburetor clean? Maybe the valves are out of adjustment? Have you checked the compression? It should start with starting fluid. Have you looked on forums to see what people are saying that own that model?
I adjusted the valves it gets good compression and spark I sprayed starting fluid in it I replaced carb with new one I replaced plug and coil but I cant get it to start still and when I take the plug out it seems dry like nothing is getting to it no fuel or starting fluid or anything it's a clean kart it didnt get run hard it just died one day and havent been able to start it since
Did you check the coil armature air gap? The space between the coil and the flywheel magnet? I've had spark but it was weak because the gap was wrong.
You can go through the carb again with a small copper wire to poke out the orifices in the carb body. I've missed stuff like that before. Even though you said you replaced it. Check the compression too
Stator output voltage on a quad should put out 24v ac - 40v ac
This one was checked per the factory service manual specs.
He said he didnt know what voltage the stator output ... once you know you either have a bad regulator or bad wires....the factory spec he referred to was the resistance of the actual regulator
There is a difference between resistance and voltage
My atv is even running is it can be because regulator?
HEY MAN IVE GOT 1999 ARCTIC CAT 500 THAT IM TRYING TO CHECK THE STATOR BECAUSE THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR I BELIEVE LEAK ELECTRICAL SMELL FLUID OUT OF IT I NEED A CONNECTOR VIEW WAS WONDERING WHERE TO FIND A VIEW
You have have to get a service manual, or search online for a diagram.
good job man
Thx
I have a 4 x 4 wheeler that has a new stator, regulator rectifier and battery but will not charge the battery. Stator is putting out 80 volts AC when I step on the gas. Have tried 2 new voltage rectifiers and both do not charge the battery. Any ideas why? Thanks, AJ.
This is going to sound dumb, but have you checked the fuses? Have you checked for corrosion or maybe rat/mice chewed wires.
There MIGHT be a bad fuse that is hidden or hard to get at.
Good from Africa
Hey from USA!
my motor cycle jumps around but still seems to keep the battery charged
The voltage jumps around? That's not good.
@@MattsShop 81 suzuki 750..ya its all over the place but never higher than 13 volts but ive been able to ride all summer ..have to get me like you said new stater
Make sure you actually diagnose your problem and do not just throw parts at it. Your voltage should stay pretty stable.
@@MattsShop im not gona do anything with it cause it still keeps my battery charged but i just know the volts are on the low side..common problem with cycles
i think i would have cleaned the connections that were corroded and tested the old one again.
Thank you
No prob!
You're welcome!
You didn’t show where your leads went while testing the dc volts
To the battery.
Hey can someone tell me where I can put the negative jumper cable for ground on my 2017 Yamaha grizzly 700
+Beastwood 2 On the negative terminal on the battery? Do you have a dead battery? It's a 2017 I can't imagine you having a dead battery.
Matt's Shop ya my battery is dead and I need spot to put the negative cable
+Beastwood 2 Positive on charger to positive on battery. Negative on charger to negative on battery.
Make sure you don't hook it up backwards. You can download a free manual from Yamaha's website I'm pretty sure.
Matt's Shop thanks
Sure thing!
Go with a dc cdi and you won't even need a voltage regulator/ rectifier
How would you do that? I have a 2008 HONDA RANCHER EFI and am always looking for better options
Why did it die when u gave it gas
He said it's done that for years.
All thlnk chrome 1400. Jaw
What?!?!?
Quick an dirty
You already know
"Give it a little gas"
Yessir
Nothing quick about this video
You leave too much out to do.