I just got a more aggressive alignment on my 2020 Challenger Widebody, and what you describe about the car rotating without you really doing anything (trail braking, throttle oversteer) is SPOT ON! I'm used to really working to get my cars to rotate, and with this alignment, there will be a lot less work. It's not like it's glitchy or squirrely, it's just responsive to turn-in, which is something that I'm not really used to (!). But I think it will come in very handy on track. I have an event coming up on Nov. 1, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how this works out! (For street I'm running -1.5 front camber, -1.0 fixed rear camber; for track I'll bump the front camber up to around -2.5. For toe, the new alignment is .08 toe-in up front, and .01 in the rear). Looking forward to seeing how this set-up works for both street and track.
Good information. My E46 M3 is a weekend/track car and I run -3.5F/-2R camber with 0 toe. I find that this is a great midway point between street and track use. Tires actually last me a good while and they still perform at the track. Toe is the tire killer, not camber most of the time.
I understand. I'm running an aftermarket camber kit on both front and rear. I really recommend if you plan on getting some serious track time, which by the looks of it you are! Good luck at your upcoming time attack event.
There you go again being all helpful and genuine LOL. The best explanation of under and oversteer I've heard. My 330CI ZHP comes with a fair amount of negative camber from the factory. It's got some M car DNA but not a true M car. It must be exhilarating to take your car to a track and push it to its limits in a generally safe manor. I think my cheap China tires would show their limitations pretty quickly haha, but it would be fun to find that out! Great video and very informative as always, thank you!
Great video. Thank you for the info. Big fan of throttle house! I have a Veloster N. She is my daily and weekend autocross warrior. I currently have the stock suspension and stock alignment. Do you recommend Camber bolts to get a few degrees (-1.5°) of camber on the front? Is it a reversible DIY change that I can do before and after a track weekend?
I love the common misconception that companies setup alignments to understeer. Factory suspension specifications are made to create even tire wear and have stable handling for 99% of the driving population. The problem with understeer and oversteer characteristics is the tires and suspension travel. Thus the reason understeering is the first sensations with increased speeds.
really helpful video, if I was to make any recommendationsit would be to link all of your social media in the description that people can find it with ease
-2 Camber is a decent performance street tyre number, once you get onto grippier rubber and start making more lateral G's you'll need some more, but that's say stage 2. On my 1st time attack car I get the toe at 0 front and rear as I was tweaking other thing, the idea being once finished I would have a final balance adjustment. My current Time attack car is very very well balanced. I hope it's not too spamy but (and delete the comment if you want man if you think it is too spamy) If you look at my recent Japnats videos (just the PB lat time will sow it, I won't add a link unless you request it) it demonstrates the balance you're talking about very well, and also the driving techniques used to counter/work with it.
My question is a bit off topic but I'm thinking about getting an E46 328i or 330i as my first car. Is there a model year where you get the reinforced subframe on the pre face lift model?
They're both prone to subframe failure, but face-lift models are a bit sturdier. If it's just going to be a daily driver, I really wouldn't worry about it.
I just got a more aggressive alignment on my 2020 Challenger Widebody, and what you describe about the car rotating without you really doing anything (trail braking, throttle oversteer) is SPOT ON! I'm used to really working to get my cars to rotate, and with this alignment, there will be a lot less work. It's not like it's glitchy or squirrely, it's just responsive to turn-in, which is something that I'm not really used to (!). But I think it will come in very handy on track. I have an event coming up on Nov. 1, and I'm really looking forward to seeing how this works out!
(For street I'm running -1.5 front camber, -1.0 fixed rear camber; for track I'll bump the front camber up to around -2.5. For toe, the new alignment is .08 toe-in up front, and .01 in the rear). Looking forward to seeing how this set-up works for both street and track.
Good information. My E46 M3 is a weekend/track car and I run -3.5F/-2R camber with 0 toe. I find that this is a great midway point between street and track use. Tires actually last me a good while and they still perform at the track. Toe is the tire killer, not camber most of the time.
+agentmike45 Yea I don't think I'll be able to get that camber sadly. As long as my rear has about 1 degree less than the front I'll be OK
I understand. I'm running an aftermarket camber kit on both front and rear. I really recommend if you plan on getting some serious track time, which by the looks of it you are! Good luck at your upcoming time attack event.
Thànks! You have millions of subscribers for a reason
FWD touring cars are setup for oversteer / lift off oversteer
+M RO yep. So is the focus St and Fiesta St. Which is why I love those cars so much haha
Very informative video, wanna see you on the track with the bmw. Though kinda hard from Eastern Europe haha. Love ya videos man keep them coming!
There you go again being all helpful and genuine LOL. The best explanation of under and oversteer I've heard. My 330CI ZHP comes with a fair amount of negative camber from the factory. It's got some M car DNA but not a true M car. It must be exhilarating to take your car to a track and push it to its limits in a generally safe manor. I think my cheap China tires would show their limitations pretty quickly haha, but it would be fun to find that out! Great video and very informative as always, thank you!
+Lycan ZHP you should try some autocross.!
Great video. Thank you for the info. Big fan of throttle house! I have a Veloster N. She is my daily and weekend autocross warrior. I currently have the stock suspension and stock alignment. Do you recommend Camber bolts to get a few degrees (-1.5°) of camber on the front? Is it a reversible DIY change that I can do before and after a track weekend?
I love the common misconception that companies setup alignments to understeer. Factory suspension specifications are made to create even tire wear and have stable handling for 99% of the driving population. The problem with understeer and oversteer characteristics is the tires and suspension travel. Thus the reason understeering is the first sensations with increased speeds.
really helpful video, if I was to make any recommendationsit would be to link all of your social media in the description that people can find it with ease
Love how you say "about" lmao
+Robbie Dusseault haha I don't hear it the same way you do.
THAT FIFTH WHEEL IS GOING TO THROW A PLANET OUT OF HERE
-2 Camber is a decent performance street tyre number, once you get onto grippier rubber and start making more lateral G's you'll need some more, but that's say stage 2. On my 1st time attack car I get the toe at 0 front and rear as I was tweaking other thing, the idea being once finished I would have a final balance adjustment. My current Time attack car is very very well balanced. I hope it's not too spamy but (and delete the comment if you want man if you think it is too spamy) If you look at my recent Japnats videos (just the PB lat time will sow it, I won't add a link unless you request it) it demonstrates the balance you're talking about very well, and also the driving techniques used to counter/work with it.
+tangles01 post the link! Always happy to have more Info shared
My question is a bit off topic but I'm thinking about getting an E46 328i or 330i as my first car. Is there a model year where you get the reinforced subframe on the pre face lift model?
+TheLuckyDawg24 the way I understand it is that they are all at risk. But pre facelift are more prone to it.
ok I thought they fixed it with the face lift.
thanks for the quick reply 👍
TheLuckyDawg24 i think face-lift models are safer or anything after 2001
They're both prone to subframe failure, but face-lift models are a bit sturdier. If it's just going to be a daily driver, I really wouldn't worry about it.
Hey was wondering ive that shop has a lot of exprience setting up subarus? I'd love to get my WRX to rotate more like my fiesta st did.
+malkionx I'm sure they can hook you up. Give em a call!
E46 Reviews with T.H. thank you very much.
Problem is locating someone who does performance alignments smh.
Do you still oversteer if you have a open diff??
yes, it's just generally less predicable