Thanks for the assessment. I recently moved to NV and in the process of setting up my workshop. Installing a LG 18000 BTU, 1000sq ft AC/Heater/WiFi. The garage is 560sq ft, walls are insulated and some insulation on the garage doors that I'll finish, it is NV but I should be able to work in shop year round. I'm fairly new to welding, first welder I purchased is the Titanium Inverter Flux Core welder. I got tired of the splatter with flux core and purchased this welder, the Vevor MIG 270 3 in 1 welder. I found a 230V outlet in the garage not wired to anything which is awesome, thought I was going to have to use 110V. I haven't used this welder yet so knowing you were able to use on 20 amp breaker at the higher settings and not trip the breaker is reassuring. I was really concerned about the input amps but you had no issues. Do you know why the TIG can't weld aluminum?
It shouldn't be used to weld aluminum because it's a direct current welder. To weld aluminum you really need alternating current. You can weld aluminum with a DC welder but it's going to take a lot more experience and the material has to be very clean, free of all oxidation, impurities and contamination. I've had it explained to me that with AC, one current direction penetrates the base metal and the reverse cleans the weld puddle, and this is happening 60 times a second. On DC you remove the cleaning cycle so you very often get an extremely dirty weld and it's easy to burn through the material. But if the base metal is new and you scrub the crap out of it with a stainless steel brush to break through the oxide layer, you can weld aluminum with a DC welder and have it look good and be a good weld. I'd do it in a pinch, but it's not something I think I'd want to do often.
@@3rdpig Would be very interesting to actually test the true output of that machine at the actuall stinger (like with an inductive amp meter), I say that because I currently have a Yesweld MIG 250 pro that I bought about 4 months ago to replace a 20+ year old lincoln the quit on me (cheaper to buy a new welder than fix it), the Yeswelder is great and has done a good amount of welding since I have had it on material ranging from about an eigth of an inch to one quarter inch give or take a tiny bit, it also runs pretty true to it's rated 250 amp output (230 to 240 actuall test with my meter), MANY of these china built machines never reach thier rated output some not even close, even going on Vevor's web site they say the output is 220 amp so what is actuall ?????, I say that because I use a dual shielded .035 (blue demon flux core gas shielded wire) wire in the Yeswelder with C25 mix ( if you haven't tried dual shield welding you need to), it runs smooth as oiled glass and gets great penetration on anything up to a quarter inch to 5/16 or a tad more (speaking single pass while still retaining good strength for structural) with the Yeselder pretty much turned up full tilt, but that is at the point of .035 wire being at it's upper limit so to speak, I want to go .045 dual shielded but because both the synergic and manual modes on the yeswelder need the input of knowing wire diameter I just don't know if it would work well with the .045 dual shield setup, I could just buy a primeweld 285 that has that capability built into it but I just can't justify $1000 for an every once in a while thing, I do own an old Lincoln Idealarc AC/DC stick machine that can crank out 300 amps all day long but I as well as my neighbors hate when I use it because it sucks so much power it causes a local brown out in the power grid LOL, pluss I just hate stick welding because of how darn dirty it is and how much it likes to burn everything up within 20 feet of where you are welding including you. anyhow really thinking hard about getting one of these Vevor's (for a back up if nothing else), right now they are less than $250 on Amazon, just would be interesting to know what they actually crank out both at bottom end and full tilt.
And one more thing I really do like these two wires one is innersheild 211 Lincoln welding wire you can get it in.30.35.40 the other is Hobart brand Fab Shield 23 these are both gasless wires and that fabshield 23 that I like as the second wire runs really well in 0.30 also should note that fabshield 23 wire is a single pass only application it's great on galvanized fence posts guardrails any other galvanized plated material up to about 1/8 of an inch
I wanted to see the TIG functions, specifically the voltage adjustment. @ 12:10 you talk about the TIG settings and say "voltage is still going to control voltage". I have this machine and another TIG AC/DC machine and that other machine doesn't have a voltage setting that I can adjust. What I really wanted to do is get TIG lower than 30 amps so I can do thinner metals like auto body. This machine doesn't have pulse, doesn't have amps < 30. I can deal with the manual argon and the no pedal ( I'm pretty sure you can add a 'pedal' type control on the torch because I can turn the knob on the machine as I TIG weld) Any Idea where you'd add a pulse controller on this machine? It's basically just an Arduino that does PWM with the amperage control. So I'm guessing it would replace the amp knob on the front with a programmed control that pulses the amperage based on your settings.
@@charlenemancini7864 Sorry, no. You're on your own with this welder. Buy some scrap and make your own settings chart. When summer ends I might do it too if I have the time.
There is an inch per minute setting on the machine it's your amperage gauge if you're at 120 amps you're at 120 in a minute if your voltage is at for example 20 volts you're approximately about 140 amps actual current
While there's no doubt that the Amp control changes the wire speed, I'm not as convinced about the rest of that, specially not with the chinese manufacturers. Got a link to share from a manufacturer that lays all that out?
the very reason I would like to have one of those v e v o r 270 amp multi-process machine it's because it is a completely manual machine when I was learning to weld in vocational school where I received my qualification certificate in May 22nd of 2003 those synergic machines were not available to the General Public and I had never encountered one in industry in my humble opinion if someone wants to get really good at welding especially wire feed welding they do need to start out with a manual machine for the simple reason that if they learn to read the puddle see what it's doing wear your toes are how's it piling is it crowning too much or not enough this is a skill also being able to see around the puddle and see how the metal is reacting to the Arc it helps build skills I can see from your perspective what you mean by an automatic machine helping someone learn how to run a bead and not have to worry about all of those general settings and I know eventually we won't be able to have these machines that are just completely manual because they will not exist anymore they will be dinosaurs great video
There's definite advantages and disadvantages of full manual machines, but if you're a tinkerer and don't mind the learning curve you can really make them sing and dance for you!
@@terryolone845 No offense, but I made this video 3-4 months ago and have made around 30 videos since. I try to respond to everyone, but without a timestamp I really don't know what you're referring to.
![How to Get a Developer Job - Even in This Economy [Full Course]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6nz8GXjxiHg/mqdefault.jpg)
Absolutely the most thorough testing video for this welder I've seen! Thanks for putting the time in 👍
Thanks for the positive comment!
Im going out on a limb here but im guessing the burnback dial controls your gas pressure for MIG
Great review. I just bought one and I am not a welder by any means. Look forward to playing around and see what I can do.
Good luck and thanks for commenting!
Thanks for the assessment. I recently moved to NV and in the process of setting up my workshop. Installing a LG 18000 BTU, 1000sq ft AC/Heater/WiFi. The garage is 560sq ft, walls are insulated and some insulation on the garage doors that I'll finish, it is NV but I should be able to work in shop year round. I'm fairly new to welding, first welder I purchased is the Titanium Inverter Flux Core welder. I got tired of the splatter with flux core and purchased this welder, the Vevor MIG 270 3 in 1 welder. I found a 230V outlet in the garage not wired to anything which is awesome, thought I was going to have to use 110V. I haven't used this welder yet so knowing you were able to use on 20 amp breaker at the higher settings and not trip the breaker is reassuring. I was really concerned about the input amps but you had no issues. Do you know why the TIG can't weld aluminum?
It shouldn't be used to weld aluminum because it's a direct current welder. To weld aluminum you really need alternating current. You can weld aluminum with a DC welder but it's going to take a lot more experience and the material has to be very clean, free of all oxidation, impurities and contamination. I've had it explained to me that with AC, one current direction penetrates the base metal and the reverse cleans the weld puddle, and this is happening 60 times a second. On DC you remove the cleaning cycle so you very often get an extremely dirty weld and it's easy to burn through the material. But if the base metal is new and you scrub the crap out of it with a stainless steel brush to break through the oxide layer, you can weld aluminum with a DC welder and have it look good and be a good weld. I'd do it in a pinch, but it's not something I think I'd want to do often.
@@3rdpig Would be very interesting to actually test the true output of that machine at the actuall stinger (like with an inductive amp meter), I say that because I currently have a Yesweld MIG 250 pro that I bought about 4 months ago to replace a 20+ year old lincoln the quit on me (cheaper to buy a new welder than fix it), the Yeswelder is great and has done a good amount of welding since I have had it on material ranging from about an eigth of an inch to one quarter inch give or take a tiny bit, it also runs pretty true to it's rated 250 amp output (230 to 240 actuall test with my meter), MANY of these china built machines never reach thier rated output some not even close, even going on Vevor's web site they say the output is 220 amp so what is actuall ?????, I say that because I use a dual shielded .035 (blue demon flux core gas shielded wire) wire in the Yeswelder with C25 mix ( if you haven't tried dual shield welding you need to), it runs smooth as oiled glass and gets great penetration on anything up to a quarter inch to 5/16 or a tad more (speaking single pass while still retaining good strength for structural) with the Yeselder pretty much turned up full tilt, but that is at the point of .035 wire being at it's upper limit so to speak, I want to go .045 dual shielded but because both the synergic and manual modes on the yeswelder need the input of knowing wire diameter I just don't know if it would work well with the .045 dual shield setup, I could just buy a primeweld 285 that has that capability built into it but I just can't justify $1000 for an every once in a while thing, I do own an old Lincoln Idealarc AC/DC stick machine that can crank out 300 amps all day long but I as well as my neighbors hate when I use it because it sucks so much power it causes a local brown out in the power grid LOL, pluss I just hate stick welding because of how darn dirty it is and how much it likes to burn everything up within 20 feet of where you are welding including you. anyhow really thinking hard about getting one of these Vevor's (for a back up if nothing else), right now they are less than $250 on Amazon, just would be interesting to know what they actually crank out both at bottom end and full tilt.
And one more thing I really do like these two wires one is innersheild 211 Lincoln welding wire you can get it in.30.35.40 the other is Hobart brand Fab Shield 23 these are both gasless wires and that fabshield 23 that I like as the second wire runs really well in 0.30 also should note that fabshield 23 wire is a single pass only application it's great on galvanized fence posts guardrails any other galvanized plated material up to about 1/8 of an inch
@@derekbryant6137 good info, thanks for sharing!
There are some setting suggestions on the back of the machine if you look at it
That sticker on the back of the one in the video is a duty cycle chart, not welding settings.
@@3rdpig I have a blue one maybe 2 years old. And it has info on rod and wire size and amps
I wanted to see the TIG functions, specifically the voltage adjustment. @ 12:10 you talk about the TIG settings and say "voltage is still going to control voltage". I have this machine and another TIG AC/DC machine and that other machine doesn't have a voltage setting that I can adjust. What I really wanted to do is get TIG lower than 30 amps so I can do thinner metals like auto body. This machine doesn't have pulse, doesn't have amps < 30. I can deal with the manual argon and the no pedal ( I'm pretty sure you can add a 'pedal' type control on the torch because I can turn the knob on the machine as I TIG weld)
Any Idea where you'd add a pulse controller on this machine? It's basically just an Arduino that does PWM with the amperage control. So I'm guessing it would replace the amp knob on the front with a programmed control that pulses the amperage based on your settings.
I wish I could help you, but that's way out of my pay grade.
Have you found any charts at all that would at least get us in the ball park for settings for different mig wires? I know Vevor doesn't have it
@@charlenemancini7864 Sorry, no. You're on your own with this welder. Buy some scrap and make your own settings chart. When summer ends I might do it too if I have the time.
The amperage is actually your wire speed which they don't tell you.
There is an inch per minute setting on the machine it's your amperage gauge if you're at 120 amps you're at 120 in a minute if your voltage is at for example 20 volts you're approximately about 140 amps actual current
While there's no doubt that the Amp control changes the wire speed, I'm not as convinced about the rest of that, specially not with the chinese manufacturers. Got a link to share from a manufacturer that lays all that out?
the very reason I would like to have one of those v e v o r 270 amp multi-process machine it's because it is a completely manual machine when I was learning to weld in vocational school where I received my qualification certificate in May 22nd of 2003 those synergic machines were not available to the General Public and I had never encountered one in industry in my humble opinion if someone wants to get really good at welding especially wire feed welding they do need to start out with a manual machine for the simple reason that if they learn to read the puddle see what it's doing wear your toes are how's it piling is it crowning too much or not enough this is a skill also being able to see around the puddle and see how the metal is reacting to the Arc it helps build skills I can see from your perspective what you mean by an automatic machine helping someone learn how to run a bead and not have to worry about all of those general settings and I know eventually we won't be able to have these machines that are just completely manual because they will not exist anymore they will be dinosaurs great video
There's definite advantages and disadvantages of full manual machines, but if you're a tinkerer and don't mind the learning curve you can really make them sing and dance for you!
It comes with flux core wire that is why it doesn’t work well with gas
I mean mig/gas
@@terryolone845 No offense, but I made this video 3-4 months ago and have made around 30 videos since. I try to respond to everyone, but without a timestamp I really don't know what you're referring to.
What gas do you use for the mig?
100% Co2
@@3rdpig I’m new to welding and hear of argon and a mix argon 75% -25% are those relevant
@@CaseyamburnTypically, it’s 75% argon/25% CO2 for MIG.