Two days ago I was searching for high revving N/A BP builds, and watched a bunch of your old videos instead. A day latter, I got exactly what I was asking for! Fantastic video!
Every time I click on one of your super long videos I think to myself I'll just skim through it and watch a few minutes, but I end up watching the whole thing start to finish.
Love the video, I’m looking to rebuild my engine when I get back to the UK, I believe the piston rings have gone on two of my cylinders. As it’s burning 1litre of oil per 100 miles, did a compression test to follow it up. I have never rebuilt an engine before, but have access to a nice clean garage to work on. Really appreciate the videos, I’m sure I’ll be watching through it again as well as my Haynes manual when the time comes! Looking to throw on some hummelink ITBS too
Awesome video!! and I appreciate your videos. I can watch this over and over LOL I love the idea of using new bolts on engine build Do you have list of bolt sizes and QTY that you need for those ones you order from McMaster-Carr? I've been listing my bolts from workshop manual but there are just so many of different sizes and qty I couldn't get my self to list all of them up.
@@NappMotorsports Too bad. lol Do you actually use all the correct bolt length?? In the video you make it look so smooth that you are using same M6 bolts with same length. Looking forward to see more of your amazing videos!!
I’ve had great luck with rustoleum on my engine block. Look up Uncle Tony’s Garage video on it. Best part is it’s like a few cents of paint per block… versus like $40 of spray paint. Granted, you have to paint it on by hand. But it holds up so much better. Also, the cans of brake clean? Gotta ditch that. Get a 50 gallon jug of lacquer thinner and a reusable metal pump sprayer
I for one, very much appreciate this video. Subscribed. This is a build I've been planning. I am curious what the "high compression" compression ratio is on your 85mm pistons. My target is 11:1 I've also been debating between stock con rods and aluminum rods, but aluminum rods are out for me, due to their cycle limit. I'm just having a hard time justifying roughly $500 for forged con rods on an NA build. Do you know the weight difference between stock and K1 rods? I might be able to look it up. Other notes: you can't be too careful, but I'm not putting that much assembly lube on my engine. I get it, but not for me. For the oil pump, I would just use oil, lol. Once you fill it, spin the crank a few times to prime the pump. I look at it similar to filling an oil filter. Similar concept. I installed the pistons and rings dry. I just lubed the bearings in the rotating assembly. I guess too much lube is better than not enough. Good insurance policy I suppose. Its better to be paranoid than complacent afterall. I can't justify buying those aluminum seal installers. I install the seals with the parts (oil pump and rear main seal retainer) off the engine. And lubing the outside? I only lube the inside to keep the seal from tearing during installation. Pull the housing, use a small plastic hammer, set the retainer on top of two pieces of wood with the center positioning pins (because I don't know what its called) between gaps in the two wood blocks. After that, rest the seal on top ready for installation. Then gently tap around the ring from opposing sides until it bottoms out. Its similar with the front oil seal. For installation, lube the inner ring that contacts the shaft and slip the whole assembly on... Carefully. If I were only replacing either part, I could certainly see the benefit of having the tool, I just find it easy this way in most cases. I do have both the FM cam gear lock and the cam shaft seal aluminum installers. I don't think I've used either. The cam gear lock I find to be annoying to use and the seal installers I couldn't find when I needed them. That's more of a me problem though. Lastly, I have no idea why you're using red loctite on anything inside the engine. Especially after torquing to spec. Someone used red loctite on my hardtop latch bolts because they couldn't keep the top from rattling. I ended up snapping the bolt off and had to drill it out, then re-tap the hole. Red loctite is permenant. Someone will want to take this engine apart eventually. You can't even hone a block with the oiler jets installed. And the windage tray?? Make it make sense. Everything else, bravo. I need one of those ring compressors. I have the old clamp kind and the ring most certainly slipped on me. I didn't notice and ended up snapping a ring. Then I had to wait a week for my $40 replacement that I paid an extra $20 for 2 day shipping, only for the part to be shipped 3 days after ordering... *sigh* The marker and torque stripe bits are good ideas. I also loved the masking, painting, and heat treating the block. That was really nice. Overall, this is going to be/is an awesome build. This is probably the best engine building tutorial for a Miata I've ever seen. Very comprehensive and detailed. Don't let any of my knit picking be a distraction. This is a job well done. I have learned quite a bit today, so I thank you.
Everyone has their own methods. Red loctite isn't permanent if you heat it. A 5 second blast with a MAP gas torch will loosen it right back up and make the bolt removable. I do it all of the time when I do valve cover modifications.
This was very interesting and informative to watch. Also I'd love to use those bolts on my engine too, do you have a list of the lengths, and stuff by any chance?
@@NappMotorsports That's fine, but you do know what you have to have in general, right? (I'm just assuming because you've had them on hand for this build)
Thanks for the awesome content! While still working through, I have a quick question: where do you get all the new hardware from? Are they OEM from Mazda or do you just find the flange bolt of same thread pitch and length?
Looking for a good Vapor Honer to bring my aluminum engine parts back to perfect new, OEM. Does the place you send yours achieve that? More detailed 1.8 engine builds, please!! It would be great to see various quality builds tailored for different horsepower goals.
@@NappMotorsportsI just found a guy local to me, who fabricates custom motorcycles parts, with a vapor blaster! But what are you saying your guy doesn’t do? Outside work, or is this not a good solution for bringing aluminum BP engine parts back to the way it left the factory?
It would be a great idea if on your page or here you put a list of the bolt measurements, for those who want to put new bolts like the ones you install, for the accessories (yeah i have OCD and i want to replace all my old bolts from my bp engine for new and shiny zincplated ones, sorry)
What made you build the vvt for a high rev setup instead of a BP05? In Australia I've seen a few guys build the BP05 because the lower radius on the inlet ports is much smoother than the vvt head
@Napp Motorsports , why can't this engine go bejond 10.000 rpm? Aside from requiring specific materials that can withstand these high revolutions, what has to happen for an engine to turn bejond 10.000? Does it have to do with weight on the crankshaft? How light / freely it spins? What happens to the classical ECUs from the NB models for example? Just replace them with something else and reprogram so it can go bejond 10.000 ?
Great video, a lot of details in one place! But as a European I can't stop laughing hearing all those fractions with every measurement.... Thank god for the metric system haha
This video: Puts assembly lube on main crank bearings with a brush like a surgeon. Also this video: Puts the assembly lube on the con rod bearings with bare hands like an animal. 😁
Those supertech pistons are very affordable, BUT they are terrible in terms of weight! The whole design is overkill as if it was to be used in a highly boosted application. You will also notice the actual product is much different in design than in the product photos where the design is actually much more suitable for n/a For reference, weight of piston+pin (took photos to back this up): oem: ~370g supertech: 441g I got my set of supertechs down to 396g after spending a LOT of time with a dremel.. Just putting it out there. Not sure how comfortable I would be revving it that high. It will work but if I had to guess it will seriously impact wear...
@@NappMotorsports I'm guessing the issue is more longevity with a BP due to it's less favorable Rod to Stroke ratio and the high piston speeds it has at 8,500?
@@NappMotorsports Great. Thank you. I'm looking forward to the turbo build video. Running a 04 MSM w/ 275 at the wheels now, but want to build it up to 400+
I really enjoyed your video but for the cost & the mods I’m not impressed with the hp estimate, you can pickup a 2.0 duratec from the junkyard for around $200 or less & it can make 200 hp without cracking it & with the modifications you did to this engine you can get 250hp, just wondering how come I don’t see Miata owners swapping to the Duratec, apart from the 2.5 swap…which is great but this is just my 2 cents
Doesn't fit so well/easily in an NA/NB, and if you're inclined to shop outside the house, then surely you'd K-swap it given there are kits available to buy (vs completely engineer/make)
The amount of re-engineering required to ever bring this engine platform to a par comparison to a Honda K-Series is futile and pointless. Appreciate the turd polishing enthusiasm and A+ for effort.
Me: “I can’t believe movies are two hours long these days.”
Also me: watches a three and a half hour long engine build video.
😂
"Extended Director's Cut"
This is way more useful and relevant than batman. So it's fine! 😆
Love these long style videos, this will for sure blow up
You mean, the video will, hopefully not the engine!
Three and a half hours of Stefan? It's like Christmas!
Wanted to distract everyone from their much more important day jobs.
@@NappMotorsports Mission accomplished!
@@NappMotorsportsjokes on you, I’m retired 😂
He’s married, boys. But don’t let that stop you.
Two days ago I was searching for high revving N/A BP builds, and watched a bunch of your old videos instead. A day latter, I got exactly what I was asking for! Fantastic video!
Manifested or whatever the kids are calling it these days
Every time I click on one of your super long videos I think to myself I'll just skim through it and watch a few minutes, but I end up watching the whole thing start to finish.
That’s how they get ya
I am going to watch this video like my 90s Hercules VHS, until the tape faded. Thank you! This is my dream build.
😂😂😂
dont even own a miata but watching that engine go together was quite the treat!
Thanks!
This is a goldmine for someone who just started wrenching like me. Thank you so much for being this thorough, this is top quality stuff
Very welcome!
This is the best thing ever, have a coffee on me!
🫡
You know it's going to be a great day when Napp has a new video🏁
🥰🥰
These are the best videos in the entire world
Glad you think so!
The joy of watching a master at work! Thanks for sharing your expertise Stefan! 🔥
Any time!
Great video! Thanks for including the ITB's!
Pleasure is all mine! You make a great kit.
French Montana building engines now!? AWESOME!! Subscribed!
😂😂😂
Super detailed stuff, learned a lot of things again. Fun to see Hummelink his stuff here! Cheers from the Netherlands.
Glad you enjoyed it!
im new to this channel but wow Stefan is the best. really glad he records those long vids for building engines. mint
Welcome to the club!
What a Build. Holy.
👏🏼👏🏼
This is the greatest engine build video I have ever seen. And since one day i will buy a Miata, this was super educational! Keep it up, great work!
Glad you liked it!
Love the video, I’m looking to rebuild my engine when I get back to the UK, I believe the piston rings have gone on two of my cylinders. As it’s burning 1litre of oil per 100 miles, did a compression test to follow it up. I have never rebuilt an engine before, but have access to a nice clean garage to work on. Really appreciate the videos, I’m sure I’ll be watching through it again as well as my Haynes manual when the time comes! Looking to throw on some hummelink ITBS too
You’ve got it!
Much ❤for all the detail and effort you've put into this build video. Great stuff!
Thanks a ton!
I learned a lot watching this. Thanks man!
Glad to hear it!
Awesome detail video with names of parts and everything! Beautiful engine. I bet this will feel amazing in a Miata! How fun
Thanks!
Thanks for putting this out! I really liked and appreciated it :)
Glad you enjoyed it!
this is exactly the build I want for my NA, I'm still in the "dreaming it up phase" but hopefully soon I'll get there
Keep at it!
Such good timing. I'm picking up a VVT engine for my NA in like 2 days!
Let’s go!
Great video guys!! Just in time before I rebuild mine! 🤙💪
Right on!
Awesome video!! and I appreciate your videos. I can watch this over and over LOL
I love the idea of using new bolts on engine build
Do you have list of bolt sizes and QTY that you need for those ones you order from McMaster-Carr?
I've been listing my bolts from workshop manual but there are just so many of different sizes and qty I couldn't get my self to list all of them up.
I don’t.
@@NappMotorsports
Too bad. lol
Do you actually use all the correct bolt length?? In the video you make it look so smooth that you are using same M6 bolts with same length.
Looking forward to see more of your amazing videos!!
Excellent build!
Thanks!
Phew! What a watch! Bravo well done on the edit and upload. Hopefully you got some shut eye after uploading this one. This one is for the diy playlist
Took almost a day to upload lmao
@@NappMotorsports 🤯🤯
I’ve had great luck with rustoleum on my engine block. Look up Uncle Tony’s Garage video on it. Best part is it’s like a few cents of paint per block… versus like $40 of spray paint. Granted, you have to paint it on by hand. But it holds up so much better. Also, the cans of brake clean? Gotta ditch that. Get a 50 gallon jug of lacquer thinner and a reusable metal pump sprayer
I used to brush it on but I find I prefer the finish of spray.
Loved the vid. Is there a reason you don't use compressed air for cleaning after using the carb cleaner in the gallies and crank?
Not a bad idea. I just typically don’t have a compressor set up.
I for one, very much appreciate this video.
Subscribed.
This is a build I've been planning.
I am curious what the "high compression" compression ratio is on your 85mm pistons.
My target is 11:1
I've also been debating between stock con rods and aluminum rods, but aluminum rods are out for me, due to their cycle limit.
I'm just having a hard time justifying roughly $500 for forged con rods on an NA build. Do you know the weight difference between stock and K1 rods? I might be able to look it up.
Other notes:
you can't be too careful, but I'm not putting that much assembly lube on my engine. I get it, but not for me. For the oil pump, I would just use oil, lol. Once you fill it, spin the crank a few times to prime the pump. I look at it similar to filling an oil filter. Similar concept.
I installed the pistons and rings dry. I just lubed the bearings in the rotating assembly. I guess too much lube is better than not enough. Good insurance policy I suppose. Its better to be paranoid than complacent afterall.
I can't justify buying those aluminum seal installers. I install the seals with the parts (oil pump and rear main seal retainer) off the engine. And lubing the outside? I only lube the inside to keep the seal from tearing during installation. Pull the housing, use a small plastic hammer, set the retainer on top of two pieces of wood with the center positioning pins (because I don't know what its called) between gaps in the two wood blocks. After that, rest the seal on top ready for installation. Then gently tap around the ring from opposing sides until it bottoms out.
Its similar with the front oil seal. For installation, lube the inner ring that contacts the shaft and slip the whole assembly on... Carefully. If I were only replacing either part, I could certainly see the benefit of having the tool, I just find it easy this way in most cases.
I do have both the FM cam gear lock and the cam shaft seal aluminum installers. I don't think I've used either. The cam gear lock I find to be annoying to use and the seal installers I couldn't find when I needed them. That's more of a me problem though.
Lastly, I have no idea why you're using red loctite on anything inside the engine. Especially after torquing to spec. Someone used red loctite on my hardtop latch bolts because they couldn't keep the top from rattling. I ended up snapping the bolt off and had to drill it out, then re-tap the hole. Red loctite is permenant. Someone will want to take this engine apart eventually.
You can't even hone a block with the oiler jets installed. And the windage tray?? Make it make sense.
Everything else, bravo. I need one of those ring compressors. I have the old clamp kind and the ring most certainly slipped on me. I didn't notice and ended up snapping a ring. Then I had to wait a week for my $40 replacement that I paid an extra $20 for 2 day shipping, only for the part to be shipped 3 days after ordering... *sigh*
The marker and torque stripe bits are good ideas. I also loved the masking, painting, and heat treating the block. That was really nice.
Overall, this is going to be/is an awesome build. This is probably the best engine building tutorial for a Miata I've ever seen. Very comprehensive and detailed. Don't let any of my knit picking be a distraction. This is a job well done.
I have learned quite a bit today, so I thank you.
Everyone has their own methods. Red loctite isn't permanent if you heat it. A 5 second blast with a MAP gas torch will loosen it right back up and make the bolt removable. I do it all of the time when I do valve cover modifications.
Nice trick with the earplugs! :p
I learned it from someone else, only fair to pass it on!
really cool!
Thanks!
this guys awesome
Thanks!
At 1:25:06 - "There's quite the dome on these guys..."
Talk about the pot calling the kettle black!
This made me legit laugh out loud
This was very interesting and informative to watch.
Also I'd love to use those bolts on my engine too, do you have a list of the lengths, and stuff by any chance?
I don’t have specifics on what bolts go where.
@@NappMotorsports That's fine, but you do know what you have to have in general, right?
(I'm just assuming because you've had them on hand for this build)
will you please, please, please get a camera that does not hunt for focus ALL THE TIME! It is going to make me crazy. Otherwise, I loved it
I think I just need to turn some setting off.
What does a dyno run look like with this build?
Like what numbers will it make? It’s all in the video
If this makes 200wheel I’ll do this just to keep the Miata pure. Hopefully if it does it’s not at 7800 lol.
Still under 200 damn
Try WPC treating one of your builds. MotoIQ recommended.
👍🏽
Thanks for the awesome content! While still working through, I have a quick question: where do you get all the new hardware from? Are they OEM from Mazda or do you just find the flange bolt of same thread pitch and length?
McMaster Carr but you have to buy it in bulk
Nice build, thank you for sharing those helpfull tips.
What camshaft and porting is this engine using? stock ones?
It’s all covered in the head part of the video
Are you going to be using the oil pressure sensor off the mk1 so his cluster reads correctly? (Assuming his chassis is a mk1)
He has an NA8 so it’ll be a dummy switch, but yes
11:11 DAMN
Satisfying goodness
Damn this is exactly what I want minus vvti
No you want VVT
8500? impressive
It’ll scream
Yo whats the scoop with that rtv squirt can!? I'm always using the toothpaste tubes struggling like hell to squeeze out a nice bead.
Permatex makes it
Regarding the boundary oil pump.
Would it give the same result just buying the gears, and putting them in the oe pump housing?
Or is that not ideal?
The S2 pumps are higher flow because they’re internally ported.
Looking for a good Vapor Honer to bring my aluminum engine parts back to perfect new, OEM. Does the place you send yours achieve that?
More detailed 1.8 engine builds, please!! It would be great to see various quality builds tailored for different horsepower goals.
No my guy doesn’t do that. It’s surprisingly hard to find someone who does.
@@NappMotorsportsI just found a guy local to me, who fabricates custom motorcycles parts, with a vapor blaster!
But what are you saying your guy doesn’t do? Outside work, or is this not a good solution for bringing aluminum BP engine parts back to the way it left the factory?
Whats need to making it a 2 liter just bored up or you need a stroker kit
Large overbore.
Moogle sees engine go brrrrrrrrrr!
🫡
It would be a great idea if on your page or here you put a list of the bolt measurements, for those who want to put new bolts like the ones you install, for the accessories (yeah i have OCD and i want to replace all my old bolts from my bp engine for new and shiny zincplated ones, sorry)
Miatabolts.com carries new hardware.
I know you’re using a cometic head gasket but have you had any experience running tomei? Thank you
I have not
Are the freeze plugs their "Cup Core" Brass ones or the Genuine OEM Freeze Plugs from bofi?
Cup Core Brass
@@NappMotorsports Why that over OEM, just better? Because OEM are cheaper, trying to decide which ones I want but cant pick.
@@NappMotorsports Also whats the bolt size for the non AC on the oil pump?
What made you build the vvt for a high rev setup instead of a BP05? In Australia I've seen a few guys build the BP05 because the lower radius on the inlet ports is much smoother than the vvt head
Inlet ports are identical, and these were worked over to be smooth anyway.
Please do a video of how this works in the car ie. with vacuum lines, break booster, idle control etc.
If I ever do an ITB swap at the shop I’ll cover it
Hello, how many hp do you expect?
Around 185whp probably
This makes me believe that I could rebuild a BP motor.
I believe you can!
Is arp main cap studs really neccesary on a high rpm N/A engine? I thought they only really ever used them on turbo builds.
Yes, increased RPM is increased harmonics and force on the main studs.
@@NappMotorsports good to know.
Alexa, add arp main studs to the shopping list!
Please ask this owner if he'd be willing to record a pull when the car is together! I want to hear this thing.
Will do
Thank you man! I really appreciate it you really the goat 😁😁 thank you so so muc 3:16:15 h ☄️☄️☄️
No problem 👍
@Napp Motorsports , why can't this engine go bejond 10.000 rpm? Aside from requiring specific materials that can withstand these high revolutions, what has to happen for an engine to turn bejond 10.000? Does it have to do with weight on the crankshaft? How light / freely it spins? What happens to the classical ECUs from the NB models for example? Just replace them with something else and reprogram so it can go bejond 10.000 ?
I couldn’t tell you what it would need for that much RPM. Regardless it would be tough to make it make any power that high.
What would a build in the box cost for this. As I live in Australia shipping a motor for you to build would be $$$.
Send me an email and I can see about pricing it out for you!
Great video, a lot of details in one place! But as a European I can't stop laughing hearing all those fractions with every measurement.... Thank god for the metric system haha
I too love the metric system over imperial. Wish we used it more.
I love the attention to detail. Why are you calling it a 2 liter build when it really is a 1.93 liter?
Large rounding lol
I can't see NB rods on the K1 website? What am I missing?
I believe they stopped making them
2:32:05
Hey the timestamp worked
Lol
"prepped head so it won't rust" *touches it with bare hands* 😭
Cleaned before assembly. It’s ok o promise.
This video: Puts assembly lube on main crank bearings with a brush like a surgeon.
Also this video: Puts the assembly lube on the con rod bearings with bare hands like an animal. 😁
The duality of man
YES, here at 140 views :)
A true OG
You really are the goat thank you so much !!!!! Hahahahahahhahahahahahag ⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Those supertech pistons are very affordable, BUT they are terrible in terms of weight! The whole design is overkill as if it was to be used in a highly boosted application. You will also notice the actual product is much different in design than in the product photos where the design is actually much more suitable for n/a
For reference, weight of piston+pin (took photos to back this up):
oem: ~370g
supertech: 441g
I got my set of supertechs down to 396g after spending a LOT of time with a dremel..
Just putting it out there. Not sure how comfortable I would be revving it that high. It will work but if I had to guess it will seriously impact wear...
These will do 8500 just fine
@@NappMotorsports I'm guessing the issue is more longevity with a BP due to it's less favorable Rod to Stroke ratio and the high piston speeds it has at 8,500?
What was the parts cost on the engine itself (not including the intake, ITB, or header)?
I would have to go back and look. It was around 8k in parts I think?
@@NappMotorsports Great. Thank you. I'm looking forward to the turbo build video. Running a 04 MSM w/ 275 at the wheels now, but want to build it up to 400+
First!
😘
I really enjoyed your video but for the cost & the mods I’m not impressed with the hp estimate, you can pickup a 2.0 duratec from the junkyard for around $200 or less & it can make 200 hp without cracking it & with the modifications you did to this engine you can get 250hp, just wondering how come I don’t see Miata owners swapping to the Duratec, apart from the 2.5 swap…which is great but this is just my 2 cents
Doesn't fit so well/easily in an NA/NB, and if you're inclined to shop outside the house, then surely you'd K-swap it given there are kits available to buy (vs completely engineer/make)
Duratec swaps aren’t just a drop in situation. There’s a reason nobody does them.
8500 rpm Miata or 9000 rpm Honda K24
From someone who had k swapped before, it’s not all it’s hyped up to be.
I never understood painting a block black. If there is ever a leak you wont know until its all caked up and gross.
Hides road grime as well
The amount of re-engineering required to ever bring this engine platform to a par comparison to a Honda K-Series is futile and pointless. Appreciate the turd polishing enthusiasm and A+ for effort.
Having had a K swapped miata, I’d build 1000 BP’s before I ever put a k series in a miata again.
Waste of time and money. 180hp...
Different strokes for different folks. This would be better than boost on canyon roads in my opinion.
Dam that's crazy its not your time or your money, let people enjoy how they spend theirs.
@@BLKUFO this crap gives the hope it's gonna feel fast. It's not.
@@crxh22honda37I don't think you get the point of NA builds.
It's not about the power
You should post more videos of your crx backfiring. I have a coffee can for sale if you want to add 50hp
When do I get to hear this thing running?
I’ll see if he can send me a video once he swaps it.