How to warm up your classic car engine the correct way & why it matters | Tyrrell's Classic Workshop
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- Опубліковано 3 лип 2024
- After months of teasing and promising this episode, it's finally time for Iain to share his wisdom on the matter that so many of you have been asking for, namely how to correctly warm up your classic car. Iain does his best to condense a wealth of information down into a manageable-sized episode so whilst he may not be able to cover the intricacies and quirks of every vehicle in existence, he can at least explain the underlying science behind why it is so critical to warm your car correctly. And with the aid of some cars in the workshop, he demonstrates some examples of the main techniques that will help warm your classic car engine in the best way possible.
00:00 - Introduction
00:59 - The importance of warming up correctly
02:10 - The oil journey
07:52 - Example 1 - Engines with a manual choke
10:41 - Example 2 - Engines with carburetors - the theory
13:25 - Example 2 - Starting up the Miura
14:18 - Example 2 - Conclusion
15:08 - Example 3 - Engine revving too fast from cold
16:31 - Example 4 - Modern engine management systems
18:49 - Outro
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Supported by Eurospares - www.eurospares.co.uk/
Filmed and edited by Whipp3dCream - whipp3dcream.com/
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I hope you enjoy this long-awaited and much-requested video and understand that it's not possible to cover every nuance of classic car engine out there. I look forward to reading all your comments and feedback as always, and if there are some common threads then we may well look at doing a follow-up episode.
So would it be a good idea to build in an Ignition Switch? So that you can get Oil Pressure with the Starter and then start the Engine?
@@TheCanky You could do a "Coil switch". In fact this was a common thing in the early 80's to have a hidden coil switch. Thus if someone tried to take your car they could not get it started. But also useful for priming the oil system. Indeed even on early FI cars like K-Jetronic you could wire a switch to the fuel pump to prevent firing.
@@TheCanky I used to do this many years ago with my 1937 Morris 8. Get in and pull the starter button to spin the engine over for a few seconds, then pull out the choke, turn the ignition key and then pull the starter. On very cold mornings, given that it had 6 volt electrics (!) I'd use the starting handle first to break the "stiction" of the oil. Happy Days indeed !
Hope to hear about anti-wear additives that we could add to the engine oil.
Thank you for these wonderful videos, Mr Tyrrell - along with Harry’s, they’re the highlight of the Internet.
Wow. A nearly 20 minute video about no more than starting an engine and it isn't boring for a single second. Who else can manage that?
And not one second of it was boring either!
Excellent coverage, Ian!!
Not a single second was boring!
A second can’t be boring..
Not boring to who?
@@markchip1 You need to get out a bit more......
Very instructive. Everyone should know how to start a Lamborghini Miura. You don't want to be caught off guard when the situation presents itself!!
And you ESPECIALLY don't want to do it wrong in front of the owner!
Haha, yes, and a Ferrari F40 and a Ford Cobra as well.
Thank you very much for this video! Maybe this could be the start of a "how-to-series". For part two of this video, please show how to drive a car that has just been started from cold until it is properly warmed through. And here is another video idea: How to store your car for long periods and avoid/minimize damage from just sitting. Greetings from Germany!
Yes! Amen to that.
What a great Sunday evening; I just saw Harry Metcalfe’s video with Iain and now another one with Iain
Absolutely spot on. Thats all the things i was also taught during my apprenticeship with SAAB. Working on old V4's and early 99's. It always used to make me shudder when watching Wheeler Dealers of old, and Ed China would start up an old car and just rev the pants off it. I would be screaming at the TV !!.
They aren't the only ones
The car has propably been started up so many timed, that the engine is in operation temperature.
So In other words, Saabs engine were made of chocolate then🤣🤣.
@@AlfaGTA156
Even worse. They were made by Ford and Triumph.
I share your anger at WD. Made for TV, but so bad for the cars.
Great video. Most of the issues with start up wear disappear if you run the engine on LPG instead of petrol. It's a big urban myth that engines won't start cold on LPG, actually the complete opposite is true, no enrichment required and they start instantly. Because the fuel always enters the engine fully vaporised even from cold, no bore washing occurs. Additionally because the fuel supply can be turned on/off instantly (not possible with a carburettor) I can crank the engine on the starter without fuel until oil pressure builds, then turn on the fuel and the engine starts immediately, virtually eliminating the bearing wear problem. It's a fantastic fuel for classics, I can never understand why it is so unpopular, with petrol currently £2 a litre but LPG in some places still under 70p, maybe people will wake up to it again..
Dear Mr. Tyrrell,
greetings from Germany.
Yet again, you have regaled your audience with a flawless and clear explanation on a vital point of practical knowledge, that every owner of an oldtimer vehicle should have.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us, in your poised and gentle manner.
With kind regards,
TH
Don't worry about packing too much information in a video. We can always go back and re-watch sections we haven't understood. These videos are invaluable, thank you.
Iain this was brilliant. You packed a huge amount of information into 20 mins and not only explained how to do it properly, but also why.
I don’t own a classic car but I still watch every video because they are fascinating.
And wrong.
@@Gma7788 - How so?
Great stuff. I have always resisted temptation when starting any engine. Always been mindful of the oil circulation. I had a neighbour with a lovely sounding throaty V8 TVR, but he knew nothing about cars. For several years he would start it from cold and instantly fling it up to very high revs like a teenage boy. Then before it even had chance to warm up, he'd switch it off. An hour later did it again. He did this multiple times per day each summer weekend for several years. Eventually, it went from sounding really sweet to sounding like a washing machine full of knives and forks. He has not started it for at least 5 years now. I am certain he trashed the bearings. I am also certain it was for all the reasons Ian describes here. Great video.
If only I'd known at the time that my BL Marina wasn't supposed to start when you turned the key in the morning, needing to crack the motor over for several minutes before it started was in fact a design feature to prevent premature engine wear, as was the need to apply copious amounts of WD40 to the engine compartment the surplus oil enhanced the rust proofing filled the cabin with that unmistakable WD40 aroma!
Being serious an ignition kill switch might be useful as it would allow you to crank the engine over building up some oil pressure before starting and if hidden under the dash could double as a cheap anti theft device.
This has to be my favourite UA-cam motoring channel every episode is a joy to watch and boy oh boy what a stellar line up of classic cars.
If you have an old fashioned immobiliser as was fitted in the 80s/90s, activate it, turn the engine over several times, deactivate and start the engine which allows the oil to be primed around the engine
Depends if the immobiliser cuts the ignition or the fuel. If you get fuel with no ignition, as was the case with my wife's 90s Civic, you will drown the engine and even get fuel in the oil.
As above, a lot of immobilisers work by cutting the ignition. Most fuel injected cars of that time have an easily accessible fuel pump relay, just pop that out and turn over to prime.
My Aston has a feature whereby on cold start from long layover, you can depress the accelerator fully and press the start button and it'll turn the engine over without firing. Aston actually make a note of those also in the handbook. I guess these types of vehicles see less use than regular daily drivers - but still, it's a nice feature. If I haven't used mine for longer than a 3 or so week interval, I'll used this feature to build pressure before then actually starting.
@@aston-martin-internationalist I thought that was actually a common feature on EFI cars of the time, not so much for pre-oiling after long periods of inactivity, but to help start a drowned engine by not adding more fuel. Smell gas ? accelerator to the floor and spin it a few times.
I like that idea. Disable the fuel pump relay. I imagine it's the least likely to upset the ECU and leave one with a CEL.
Glad I found this channel and particularly this video! Fantastic content!
Feel free to take note of my U-toob handle name and you’ll understand as to why I am OCD about engine start up procedures. I bought a 3.5hp lawn mower years ago for $150 and modified the throttle to allow for a healthier warm-up procedure. Last weekend I coached a friend on starting his 2-stroke 6cyl boat engine regarding tapping the electric choke button to keep it running just after starting as on many engines like those die if the choke is on for an extra few seconds and die with the choke off for a few seconds. A TRUE ART FORM!
This was the first but I bet not the last time I watched this. Essential viewing.
On something that's stood long time it can be worth taking the plugs out and spinning the engine on the starter until the oil pressure comes up, then put the plugs back in to start. That way there's no compression so very little load on the bearings. Of course, this does depend on the car being one designed for fairly easy access to the plugs
Absolutely dead right. You should always remove the plugs after a week or two, until the oil pressure is up but with no compression so the bearings don't get hammered..
Especially after an oil filter change to ensure that the new oil goes everywhere. Do this on my MGB GT
Taking the plugs out? surely just taking the lead off the alternator would stop it firing, the starter would still turn.
Yes, but the compression would then still be there. Taking them out is just even more gently done.
@@lucifarian93 Do you mean take the LT wire off the coil?
Brilliant! I have heard of quite a few folks who put "pre-oilers" on their engines. Basically an electric oil pump that pressurizes the system before the engine starts, to ensure proper lubrication.
My 2002 Prius does a long pomp noise and when stopped, I crank it. Rev is kept low 30 sec long until oil is everywhere and then engine is free to rev higher if computer choose to do so... It seems it pumps oil perfectly for cranking...
Seems a pretty obvious solution. If you have a £10,000 engine a pretty cheap solution.
would love to do that on my car not sure how to
Install a preheater for the engine aswell as a pre-oiler.
Win win.
Thats he way to go !
I fitted a normally closed switch in the coil primary of my Lotus. This gave me the option of inhibiting ignition on cold starts to allow the oil to be cranked around.
Great advice and entertaining as always. Having grown up with a car with choke my dad told me the same thing, choke in as soon as possible to avoid engine damage with overly rich mixture. I found the Lamborghini Miura without choke particularly interesting, maybe also because it has been my dream car for years. Sadly I would not fit in one at 6'7 and am also not rich enough to afford one, but it is maybe the most beautiful car ever made.
I feel obligated to wear suit watching your videos Mr. Tyrrell!
Thank you for taking the time and effort to document this sort information that is usually passed on only verbally by a father to a son for example. If there are any generational breaks in that information chain or something else, especially in the future it might be pretty hard for a younger generation to properly get into classic carbureted cars.
Spot on. When I bought my '76 Aston V8 the previous owner gave me a page of handwritten notes for cold, warm and hot starting techniques. Pretty much as Iain describes for the Miura (same carbs). People raised on modern 'twist & go' tech are going to suffer if we don't pass on the knowledge.
Most important video I’ve seen regarding car care on UA-cam!!! Thank you so much!
Thank You!
I love these videos. I have been lucky enough to work on lots of classics some of which you often feature. I hope everyone in your workshop knows how lucky they are to be able to just touch let alone work on some of these rare and valuable beasts ❤
Fascinating video Iain, you took me right back about 45 years to my first office job working with an old boy who was keen on cars. I remember he regaled me one quiet afternoon with a long explanation of how Ettore Bugatti would insist owners of his cars should run first lukewarm, then progressively hotter water through the block, hand pump the oil pressure up, and only then attempt to start the engine!
I put a programmable ecu on my 80s bmw engine and I found that it started extremely quickly and the oil pressure light was on for a bit to long once it started. So I told the ecu to skip the first few ignition events so it cranks a few times and the light goes out just as it starts- similar to as you describe on tbe Bentley.
Hi Lain , You have no idea how much I appreciate your channel , and this particular tutorial on starting/worm up engines. Since young age I had interest in cars and engine functionality. Just as I personal prospective, and by nature been over carrying for my personal stuff, I developed an interest on extending engine life, especially if I build it, . I then search into this subject, after experience at work, during maintenance on a paint industry, on the routing starting of a generator, every six months, just for to keep it in good working other . This is a big ex little ship four Cylinders diesel engine where I used to walk between the Cylinders, and the conrods where exposed. Before occasionally starting it, we used to pressurize the engine oil with a "not a small V8 diesel engine", that in turns (because itself also wasn't started often), with the add of a hand pump, we used to PRELUBRICATE IT , and create an oil pressure in to it before starting it...... Say no more!!! Since then, I starting research in engine pre lubrication, and I Found this video on big container ships engines starting, to witch no matter how big the oil pump would be, by the time the oil would lubricate the critical parts and Create a (CUSHION OF OIL BEARING), the engine would almost disintegrate in no time!! Since then and still in my younger age, whenever I rebuild an engine, I create a secondary oil pic up, from the oil pan "between the crankshaft", ( but not necessary from there), it could be a pic up from the oil pan as well, as long not from the very bottom or dirty oil would be picked up). Then sucking engine oil trough a filter (of any car brand) into of any OUTSIDE Block gallery, with a quality non return valve, ( because once the engine will fire, (if without the non return valve), it will loose oil pressure back to the oil sump) On my last beautiful Ford V8 351 cu", engine , I used a forklift pump, it happened to be a 24 Volts pump, ( but it don't have to be a big electric motor, a simple and small one would do.) In my case it was convenient because it has a gear pump already attached to it. all I had to do was to attached a small (Toyota) oil filter with an after market attachment, on to the same gear pump and no matter how long the engine hasn't been started,....... in a few seconds of the electric switch activation , the oil pressure goes sky high , and when subsequently I start the engine, it starts as smooth as a baby bump, without hydraulic lifters noise as they usually do make noise well after 12/15 hours the engine hasn't been running, if no pre pressurising the engine.. I know by facts of the big difference, as I only can tall the difference. As a matter of facts, this pre lubrication/pressure, pump it only needs to be operated only once daily, usually in the morning, (or after years stud still). This is the crucial time needed, to keep the engine lubricated before initial starting after approx.. a 15 hours rest......! Thinking that we got in the past to remove the distributor before engine starting after long engine rest, and spinning the oil pump with a drill, (on here we could of course) and after reassembling the distributor , tuning again the engine. When I was a very young fallow in Italy , I learned way Alfa Romeos would take their time for the engine starting. I am going back in the late 50s. The reason is because they have a simple and very affordable oil pressure switch that would delay the electric power to reach the spark plugs until the oil pressure would close the contacts . The same electric switch used by regulation on any ricing cars today operating electric pumps in case they roll over, to stop the petrol, or any combustible fuel to continuing pumping. Easy to purchase it from any ricing car industries. From $ 80.00 to $150.00, circa, the work all just as good!! it won't pressurize the engine like a pump such, but at list lubricate the engine ready for the conrod smashing the big ends bearings !! How much you LOVE your engine, since the major wearing is when you starting it????
As an owner of a TR-250 this video was informative and useful....Thanks
Thank you Iain. This is very helpful and valuable information.
For a car that’s sat awhile, I was taught to disconnect the coil and crank the engine, while counting to 5 then stop for a few seconds. Repeat this until pressure shows on the oil pressure gauge (to keep over stressing the starter). Then reconnect the coil, set the choke and start the car. You can then set off, but do not over rev until the temp gauge begins to move. I follow this procedure on my 1965 TR4A.
I do the same thing with a 2000 Porsche 996, but remove the fuel pump fuze crank it over a few times then place the fuze back in and start
I usually whip out the plugs to help the starter. I usually like to read the plugs once in a while. Let the light go out.
@@edgarbeat275 Very good idea, but some job with a V8
Edgar has the right idea - spare the starter by removing the plugs to relieve the compression; keep the starter engaged until you see pressure on the oil gauge. Then plugs in and start.
I had no idea, not that I have a classic car, thank you Iain.
Perfectly explained, amazing channel
Please don't ever feel the need to condense things, I could listen all day 😅 awesome stuff!
Thank you so much for sharing with us your wisdom. Much of what is revealed in this video translates directly to the starting and care of small aero engines.
Thanks for taking the time and sharing the importance of oil priming!!
Very informative. This will be one to watch again in the future
Please do a follow up because people love information like this and it was really interesting and thanks for taking time to make the video
Undoubtedly one of the best channels on UA-cam 👍
This was excellent thank you. Learnt so much and I never realised the differences and reasons why.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video Ian! Great job!
Great advice, works equally well for classic bikes too.
Thank you,Sir Ian! This information is so valuable for us classic car drivers.
Great video, very informative!! I am going to re-watch this a few times.
Excellent as always!
An excellent piece this. I have a few things to add. Bearing lubrication is critical, but having a background in competition engines it is also important not to idle too slowly because you can take out the cam lobes unless they get a good supply of oil. The cam lobe is the most highly stressed part of an engine in terms of the contact pressure it has to bear between the sliding surfaces of the lobe and the follower. We would always get oil pressure by cranking with spark plugs removed, fire up and run at around 2500 to 3000rpm with no load on the dyno until fully warm. A road cam profile won't be quite so demanding, so I agree with your lower rev advice for a standard engine. The worst (other terrible engines are available) offender here was the Pinto which had its camshaft suspended in mid air, miles from any oil supply (OK, they did eventually fit an oil spray bar but they were still notorious for knocking out cam lobes), whereas modern 16V engines generally leave the cam lobes and followers sitting in a nice puddle of oil once the engine is turned off. Incidentally, the easiest engine I ever dealt with here was the works Chevette HS engine. We ran an external oil pump driven by a belt and it was a simple matter to slip the belt off and turn the pump with a speed brace on the dyno - full oil pressure and the engine hasn't even been turned over!
You will have confused some viewers at 10:40 when you said there were no chokes, but all 12 chokes needed fuelling! The cold start choke is a completely different item to the venturi choke in the carb barrel - but you know that anyway. Just pointing it out for anyone just learning.
One thing that you covered rather briefly here is what you do with the throttle. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen someone start an engine from cold and then constantly blip the throttle to let the revs shoot up and down. Sounds great, but to anyone who knows what they're doing they just look like an ignoramus. Even some people who should know better have been seen to do this. Whether you have an ancient or modern, almost all engines have transient enrichment to richen things up as the throttle is blipped. An old engine will have a throttle pump and a modern will have an enrichment curve in the software. This is a disaster for bore and piston ring wear. The only engine I know of without this enrichment is in my lawnmower and that's a bugger to raise the revs on without it stalling.
Absolutely. Can’t cover everything but hopefully constant revs rules out “winging” the throttle.
Unless you have a Weber IMB range carb which has no throttle pump or air choke, just a fuel enrichment choke and is rather 'unique' in its starting characteristics....
I was also told you shouldn't blip the throttle and switch off, as that can cause bore wear as the fuel isn't combusted and it washes the oil away on the walls
Great info, Roger. And knowing that more modern engines allow the cam lobes to sit in an oil puddle on shut down seems like great common sense design.
Something I’m always mindful of if I’ve parked on a very steep hill is the position of the oil pickup in the sump as it may not be submerged in the oil depending whether you’ve parked facing up or downhill. I always try to roll to flatter ground before start up if safe to do so.
@@markbullen8967 people do that just to show off to others who are standing around.
I love your green frames. I got some after seeing yours and now there's less confusion in my world. Cheers
Thank you for being so giving of your time.
My Sunday is complete... Thanks Iain.
An excellent, informative video. Thank you.
Another really great video thank you Iain. ❤️
Fascinating, thanks for the video, really enjoyed it
It's great to see someone knowledgeable addressing the subject of oil starvation upon cold start up, and the dynamics are similar for practically all types of engines. I first was introduced to this topic during my stint as the driver of a touring top sportsman/pro modified drag racing team. When I was to start the engines, I had to crank the engine on the starter until the oil pressure gauge sustained at least 30 lbs of pressure for about 10 seconds, then hit the ignition and fuel switches to light off the engine.
The biggest factor in engine wear in my experience is oil quality. Oil choice and age can be what kills an engine (and usually is, long before cold starts come into play). Good video though, I learned why the nearest bearing fails finally! I always put it down to dirt getting though the pump but that makes sense too.
Even mid priced oil today is much better quality than the old engines ever dreamed of. I think you are falling for the sales pitch. Just a thought.
With the benefit of an oil pressure gauge I pull the HT lead and crank a few seconds with choke in until the gauge registers some pressure then pop lead back in, pull choke (if needed) and start. Its good starting a journey with dirty hands!
This is so beautiful, you could really tell that it is a subject close to Iains heart and that he stressed getting this information across in the right way. Thank you!
Thank you so much. To give your knowledge in such a clear way. Your channel is amazing. Thanks again.
Elegant dismount! Thanks for recording Jonathon 👍
Absolute masterclass, enjoyed every second. Always a joy, can't wait for more awesome stuff.
Gamers know more than Ian, already.
Gamers get taught vast amounts of real world information, rapidly.
what
Great stuff! Thank you for sharing this knowledge with us.
What a wonderful video. I learned lots, much obliged indeed! Cheers Nick
Enjoyed this, always good to learn something new. I think you did a good job or explaining it all as its a quite complex subject with all the different variations of engines and such.
I do remember people recommending a Accusump for older cars as it can pressurize the oil from start so its always starting with better oil flow and also those block heaters they have in colder climates to pre heat the engines can be useful too.
I enjoyed it very much, such a great explanation how engine warms up, I never heard that car manufacturers purposely crank 3 or 4 times to allow the oil pump work first before starting, very interesting
you give great pleasure in letting us viewers participate in your tremendous knowledge, thank you for the contribution Sir
This is a fantastic episode! Interesting detail about the bearings closest to the pump wearing the most.
Good info. Many of these tips are also appropriate to Lycoming & Continental piston aircraft engines. At 1:45 Iain says on cold start "engines need a much lower fuel to air ratio". I think the intent is the opposite: more fuel, less air. A richer mixture is higher fuel to air ratio, lower air to fuel ratio.
Also, seems like the aircraft Lycoming and Continental piston engine crank a bit longer before staring up.
@@kimberlywentworth9160 They may, depending on the model and whether it's carbureted or fuel injected. With proper technique, some will cold start within 1-2 prop rotations, others take more. Vintage car engines can be the same - some crank longer than others.
@@kimberlywentworth9160 PS: this may also depend on the type of magnetos it uses: impulse coupled or shower of sparks. Two different ways to get spark for a cold start.
Another fabulous videos on this channel and on Harry's garages!!!
very much enjoyed this one! Thanks a lot!
That was just fantastic to hear about what you said! My dad's car had an automatic choke! My present car has an automatic choke! thank you so much for that info!
Very informative & very well made as usual. Now, just need to get myself a Lamborghini Miura and I'm set to go!
When I get my restoration finished, with its rebuilt engine, got all this to consider. Not just starting a classic engine but also running it in.
Consider a pre oiler, don't know if they are available now..don't see why not...Or even simpler, rig up a switch to the ignition, and then switch when you want engine to start..a 5 second crank should do it, whatever you think best...
Great job! Thank you for sharing.
I could listen all day 😊
FINALLY an expert tells it how it is. Ive tried to explain this to young techs and ppl and they just dont get it. As new cars rade to warm up so fast for emissions its basically not an issue. Yet older and vintage cars 100% should warm up b4 loading the engine hard
Jonarhan was filming this! An extremely informative video, I understand that your expectation to this technical video is high. I could listen to you explaining this, and other technical things for hours!
Thank you Iain. So informative and helpful!
Absolutely fantastic video - thank you Ian.
Some modern engine management systems incorporate a flood-start sequence. For a dead start after a long rest, hold the throttle to the floor and crank. The engine will turn but NOT start as long as the throttle is fully open as fuel delivery is bypassed. (Obviously, not something to try with a carbureted car). Start the engine normally once the clatter sounds "normal".
On a carbureted car with a manual choke and fixed jetting, holding the throttle wide open during start will extend the cranking time before firing with the mixture being very lean (due to the low venturi velocity).
The discussion about oil pressure makes me think of Jay Leno's Hispano Suiza that has a separate circuit for the oil pump, so the car can get up to full oil pressure before starting
Very well explained, thankyou.
Sunday mornings are for relaxing. Watching you educate us on the finer points or owning and operating classic cars is as good a way as any to start the day.
Thank you for this VERY useful tips that no one else usually talks about, despite engine cold start it is so important !
A long awaited video but so worth the wait. Utterly immersive to watch, fascinating stuff indeed, thank you Iain!
A baby blue Miura! your workshop is a Nirvana Mr Tyrrell. Having the kind of skills that garners this type of attention for the owners of these beauties, trumps being an actual owner due to the steady stream of marvels that enter your workshop. Great stuff!
Agree 100%. It's amazing how many will still argue the point. Great work!!
Just another brilliant and informative video from "the master" With Harry Metcalfe's Countach in for major work as well, it's just automotive heaven !
Hello Wade how are you doing 😉
My late Father was an experimental driver for Jaguar. Leaving the choke in was the go to long life solution for the engine.
With a Renault 16 1967, automatic "starter" (choke) was replaced with a manual one : we had to get out choke to max, pump once accelerator, then crank and as soon as engine was revving, push choke to half then off after a few hundreds meters.
Brilliant explanation. Thank you!
Very good info, thanks for raising awareness
Thoroughly enjoyed this presentation Iain, the incorrect cold start routine can easily destroy a good engine.
You didn't mention the "the engine lube pre charge accumulator system" that some classic owners have fitted to their vehicles. A friend of mine has that set-up on his classic MGA for cold starts, it seems to work well protecting the engine bearing surfaces.
This is why I have a separate switch for the ignition on my SBF 302. Turn it over until oil pressure reaches 50 psi and then start it. Another way which I’m considering is an Accusump oil pressure system.
What was exactly my touth..
My mate, who lived about 2 doors away at the time, was a mechanic..He aquired a 'Pre Start Engine Oiler' device, that was plumbed into your oil line..about the size of a jar of Horlicks..when the engine was running it filled up with oil, but when you switched the engine off, a solenoid shut and your oil was kept within device..Upon switching on the ignition BEFORE continuing to starti the engine, the oil was released, under pressure of course, and oiled your engine..clever..that must be 40 years ago or more, never seen one since...
Excellent presentation. 👍
Thanks for that Ian, really interesting, I've got a 34 Austin 7 which I always turn it over on the handle a few times before starting and a 58 moggy 1000 which I always crank over on the starter before turning the ignition on ( it has a pull start )
Thanks again
The subject of initial oiling has long been a interest of mine, the absolute best way as far as my research shows is to have both a oil pre heater, and an independent oil pressure pump to circulate oil before the engine is turned, this system is used on most WWII aeroplanes with RR Merlin engines and works very well, there is a big market out there for a compact unit to fit on classic cars, or you can just isolate the ignition and turn the engine over a few times before turning it on. Chris B.
While it doesn't pre-heat the oil, Accusump makes a pre-oiler
@@kevinharper7037 Very many thanks for this interesting information, this is just what is required! Chris B.
Not a good idea to isolate the ignition, washing the bores with extra unburnt petrol, improves one wear issue but makes the other worse. Isolating the fuel is the answer, but not easy with most carburettors.
Very informative. Thank you.
Fantastic video. Really appreciate it Iain. Thank you.
Excellent advice two things or may be three. 1. having the oil and water preheated before one starts a classic car. 2. Have the ability to turn the engine over before allowing it to start. And 3. not revving the "nuts" off it when it is cold.
I some time pull out the king lead if the car has sat a bit. Turn until oil light goes out.
sounds great but how do you heat the fluids before a cold start??
@@edgarbeat275 Quite simple you take the water of of the engine hoses in to a heat exchanger the return it to the engine. Use disconnection plugs to stop any water loss. Oil put a small element in to the sump. You can of course heat the gearbox oil as well.
"The more observant among you may have noticed this is not a Bugatti!" LOL!
Thank you for this summary video. Ever since you mentioned you are going to record the video about Vintage car warm procedure. And even going through per engine type is great! Thank you once more.
Super informative. Appreciate this.