This was perfect, most people forget about those little things so I'm glad you covered these here. Looking foreward to the more In-Depth Information about Lighting.
One more Tip: I have learned is I use a Combination with Diffusion and color Gel at a tungsten Halogen oder HMS lamp, to bring the diffusion to the side of the Burner and the outside, that what all can see the color gel. That is better because if you use dark color gels the color gel will absorb the temperature and will be hot and will be melt faster.. The diffusion at the side to the burner will diffuse the light and the absorption and heating for the color gel is not so extrem.
You forgot a super important step : Rig to the right. You should always keep your knuckles on the right hand side, that way if you're ever using any kind of heavy light with an extension arm (like a softbox) if it starts to tilt forwards it will always tighten down the knuckle and prevent it from loosening on itself and collapsing.
When lowering a section always grip the base of that section (not the middle) as it is a way more stable control, and then you can release to lower (ie avoid shoulder injuries!). Also,the reason she quite correctly raises the top section first is that it is impossible (especially on a 4 raiser stand) to then reach the higher sections if you start from the bottom. True its a tiny bit less stable at the lower height, but if this small difference makes a difference in your rig then you are mounting a light that is too heavy for your stand anyway. Finally, sand bag FIRST.
One other BIG BASIC STEP that you didn't mention is have one of the legs of the stand be exactly parallel to where the light is pointing, so it's less likely to fall because it would have something to hold the front heavy weight of light. If it happens to be falling it won't fall on the subject and won't smash the bulb directly
+Cliff Shorey Can someone tell me what the difference is between Combo stands, junior stands, senior stands, and baby stands? they seem the same and Google isn't giving any answers. Is it just size?
+Mr. Man what she is using is "beefy baby stand". a combo stand is the combination of a junior and baby stand. you can google "low boy" as an example. Im going to be covering that in my tutorials soon. check me out if you have some time
I don't understand why people in film put gels on lights like that. Why not use a gel frame? Thats how Lee and Rosco intended for it to be used! I come from a theatre and live events background. If you use a gel frame you can easily move the barn doors without having to remove the gel. Doing it your way wastes so much gel!
+Joseph Lott sometimes you want the gel semi exposed by the light and doing funny things, sometimes im lazy or in a hurry, sometimes what you say makes perfect sense... lol
I've been studying film for about 4 years now and I honestly had never even heard of a gel frame until about two weeks ago when my Professor in my college Lighting class showed it to us and even then he still made sure we knew that we could use C47s to clip it to the barn doors. This man comes from a background in the film industry so I guess this is more of the norm than you might suspect, although I will agree with you that a gel frame helps a lot.
+jonnypanteloni True! But with a gel frame you can do some really cool things like cut shapes into the gel really accurately. I wonder why its done differently!
It just comes down to speed mainly. It's a lot faster and more versatile to clip gels to the front lights. Want some diffusion on the light as well? Instead of cutting it and sliding it into a frame, just add it to the front. It allows for loads of combinations without having to prepare in advance. Lighting in theatre is more permanent in that sense, lights and gels are set for a show and don't change (often). So it makes sense to have a more permanent solution: frames.
I know your comment is three years old, but fancy scrolling through all of the comments on this video looking to see if someone had asked exactly what you have about gels and coming across you. You’re Joe as in JLDJUK, right? I’ve followed your video for many years.
Wrap the cable around the feet of the stand for one loop! That means that if someone *does* trip on the cable, the stand will be tugged from the bottom and not the top so it won't fall over.
Why not use pro LED panels? I thought they are have less weight, no heat and better color temperature. Are these big hot lamps still better than pro LED? Thanks!
You forgot tzo mention to let the lights cool down BEFORE you move the stand anywhere. In this case you're using solid-stat-lighting, which is ok. But every other light source that uses filaments gets very fragile when heated. Changing bulbs while everyone else is waiting is... more than uncomfortable.
can you guys please give advice on how/where to get music for people like me making youtube videos. needs to be royalty free, good for skits and free/cheap. thanks :)
+MepsiCax Here are your options for music for video, in order by price from cheapest on up: I always use incompetech.com for my video projects. Tons of free music that fits most moods; just add attribution in end-cards. Also, you get to keep your ad revenue. Good for-comedy, electronica, silent-film emulation, wonder, epic battle scenes, and the occasional heavy-handed horror Bad for-most work for hire (if they mind you adding attribution at the end), warm intro scenes (no music in the same vein as the "Concerning Hobbits" theme, for instance), hits and risers. If there's nothing there, there are several other free, creative-commons music sites, though none as big as incompetech.com. Kevin MacLeod, the guy who runs incompetech, makes a list of recommendations on his FAQ page: incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/faq.html Good for-a bunch of esoteric stuff, high production value Bad for-tight deadlines. Sorting through all of the sites listed there until you find what you want is difficult and time consuming. Also, there's no guarantee that what you're looking for is even there to be found. Finally, the music is seldom broken into instrumental tracks and rarely offers much customization, so like incompetech, bad for hits and risers and the like. If you need something you can't find there, you can try some of the commercial sites; jewelbeat.com, for instance, has quite a bit of music at $2.99 apiece. Good for: I can't speak as to the quality, since I've never used it, but 3 bucks is pretty darn cheap. Bad for: Again, I can't speak to its quality, but I can say that it's not free. Unfortunate, but musicians have to eat just like the rest of us. Otherwise, you could maybe wait for one of the triune store's sales and pick up a pack o' music goodness. Good for-hits and risers, building up drama, garden-variety horror, classy scores broken into constituent parts. Also, your purchase supports Ryan Connolly, which is probably a good thing. Bad for-there are several things they just don't have; those they do are pretty good, but you will have to pay, and it can be a bit pricey. If nothing there fits your purpose, you may need to hire a composer; expect to pay about $100 per finished minute of music. Hope this helps.
+Marcus Picov-Aida I'm no pro, but here are my 2 cents. Screens have several properties that will prevent you from shooting them well: 1. Refresh rate: Most screens don't actually show a static image. They refresh the visible image at a certain interval. (The human eye won't notice, but a camera will.) To counter this, set your screen and camera to the same refresh rate or, if possible, genlock them so they run in sync. 2. Contrast: Screens are designed to be looked at straight on. If you're trying to film them from the side or at an angle, you'll notice that the image becomes difficult to see/capture. There isn't much you can do about this other than to try and capture the screen at the best angle possible. 3. Light: Screens emit light, so trying to film them is basically like pointing a camera at a light: You'll have to close the aperture and/or increase the shutter speed (keeping in mind problem 1) to reduce the amount of light coming into the camera. As a result, anything surrounding the screen needs to be very well lit, otherwise you'll lose it. (Lower the brightness of your screen and bring in more light around it so see if that helps counter the effect.)
imagine if you start with the bottom and middle risers and max them out, but then you're asked to raise it even higher, and you realize the top riser is out of reach
Pls if your out there i need help im starting to be a grip crew in a filming industry in ph i think i need some help i hope you get this message and thank you :)
I’m from England, so perhaps there’s a regional difference in terminology, but ‘going dark’ is always used as a call in the theatre industry to warn actors and crew whenever stage lighting is about to be completely blacked out, so I believe that’s where the origin of the phrase lies. I’ve never heard ‘saving’ being called in a film environment until hearing it in this video.
that is not a combo stand. Its a baby. Put the bag on the rocky leg, what the hell kind of gel is that? if you're going to make an instructional video, please do it correctly. -an angry juicer
"Nobody panic! I'm just turning this light off!"
*"NOBODY PANIC!!"*
I love the Transition sound ^^
+WolfLPer woo-oop!
+Jean-Silviu Dupouy That is pretty accurate :D
+WolfLPer 3:59 njoy over and over again
This was perfect, most people forget about those little things so I'm glad you covered these here.
Looking foreward to the more In-Depth Information about Lighting.
Great vid. Authoritative, covers the basics, uses the industry terminology, nothing irrelevant. Thank-you.
One more Tip: I have learned is I use a Combination with Diffusion and color Gel at a tungsten Halogen oder HMS lamp, to bring the diffusion to the side of the Burner and the outside, that what all can see the color gel. That is better because if you use dark color gels the color gel will absorb the temperature and will be hot and will be melt faster..
The diffusion at the side to the burner will diffuse the light and the absorption and heating for the color gel is not so extrem.
You forgot a super important step : Rig to the right. You should always keep your knuckles on the right hand side, that way if you're ever using any kind of heavy light with an extension arm (like a softbox) if it starts to tilt forwards it will always tighten down the knuckle and prevent it from loosening on itself and collapsing.
When lowering a section always grip the base of that section (not the middle) as it is a way more stable control, and then you can release to lower (ie avoid shoulder injuries!). Also,the reason she quite correctly raises the top section first is that it is impossible (especially on a 4 raiser stand) to then reach the higher sections if you start from the bottom. True its a tiny bit less stable at the lower height, but if this small difference makes a difference in your rig then you are mounting a light that is too heavy for your stand anyway. Finally, sand bag FIRST.
Great vid! I learned this in my film/video classes at school. Its SO important to learn this safety stuff. Thx yall. :)
Nice step by step instructions and tips. Thanks!
One other BIG BASIC STEP that you didn't mention is have one of the legs of the stand be exactly parallel to where the light is pointing, so it's less likely to fall because it would have something to hold the front heavy weight of light. If it happens to be falling it won't fall on the subject and won't smash the bulb directly
Very good tip!
Loved it. Thank you!
That's not a combo stand! That's a baby stand!
Yup yup this is correct.
+Cliff Shorey Can someone tell me what the difference is between Combo stands, junior stands, senior stands, and baby stands? they seem the same and Google isn't giving any answers. Is it just size?
+Mr. Man what she is using is "beefy baby stand". a combo stand is the combination of a junior and baby stand. you can google "low boy" as an example. Im going to be covering that in my tutorials soon. check me out if you have some time
I think its .7?
I don't understand why people in film put gels on lights like that. Why not use a gel frame? Thats how Lee and Rosco intended for it to be used! I come from a theatre and live events background. If you use a gel frame you can easily move the barn doors without having to remove the gel. Doing it your way wastes so much gel!
+Joseph Lott sometimes you want the gel semi exposed by the light and doing funny things, sometimes im lazy or in a hurry, sometimes what you say makes perfect sense... lol
I've been studying film for about 4 years now and I honestly had never even heard of a gel frame until about two weeks ago when my Professor in my college Lighting class showed it to us and even then he still made sure we knew that we could use C47s to clip it to the barn doors. This man comes from a background in the film industry so I guess this is more of the norm than you might suspect, although I will agree with you that a gel frame helps a lot.
+jonnypanteloni True! But with a gel frame you can do some really cool things like cut shapes into the gel really accurately. I wonder why its done differently!
It just comes down to speed mainly. It's a lot faster and more versatile to clip gels to the front lights. Want some diffusion on the light as well? Instead of cutting it and sliding it into a frame, just add it to the front. It allows for loads of combinations without having to prepare in advance. Lighting in theatre is more permanent in that sense, lights and gels are set for a show and don't change (often). So it makes sense to have a more permanent solution: frames.
I know your comment is three years old, but fancy scrolling through all of the comments on this video looking to see if someone had asked exactly what you have about gels and coming across you. You’re Joe as in JLDJUK, right? I’ve followed your video for many years.
I like those boxes in the background.
yes please more lighting videos
Great intro, Lauren!
Brings me back to lighting 1, good times good times...
Thank you!
Would love some videos on HMI's, xeons, etc as well as power of lights, so really demonstrating what a 1k or a 10k can do!
Very informative
Wrap the cable around the feet of the stand for one loop! That means that if someone *does* trip on the cable, the stand will be tugged from the bottom and not the top so it won't fall over.
very very nice video
Wouldn't the light be less wobbly if you used the lower riser first?
***** Cool thanks for explaining that! :)
Why not use pro LED panels? I thought they are have less weight, no heat and better color temperature.
Are these big hot lamps still better than pro LED? Thanks!
Unless you have a lollipop head (mattews gobo), What are some important pins that you should have to set up on the combi?
So basically... How to operate a stand with moving parts 101?
+Joseph Matterson lol i thought they were going to show us lighting techniques
+Joseph Matterson Yeah, this was really lame.
....or if you don't do any one of these steps it will be your last day on set...forever.
Teach us more!!!!! I must learn!!!
What is the name of the music at the end of the video? It sounds awsome!
You forgot tzo mention to let the lights cool down BEFORE you move the stand anywhere. In this case you're using solid-stat-lighting, which is ok. But every other light source that uses filaments gets very fragile when heated. Changing bulbs while everyone else is waiting is... more than uncomfortable.
For what do you use a slate
On the east cost we call those stands there Low boys and bigger ones tall boys. Then we call stands with junior receivers combo stands.
She has no idea what she is talking about (when it comes to stands.) That's not even a "Combo stand" on the WEST coast.
This was really helpfull! Thanks! :)
When you stick up, why you go first with the thinest one?
That sign in the back makes me miss VGHS.
What's that gel called again? Also where can you get it?
Good vid!
+RocketJump Film School Thanks!
can you guys please give advice on how/where to get music for people like me making youtube videos. needs to be royalty free, good for skits and free/cheap. thanks :)
+MepsiCax Here are your options for music for video, in order by price from cheapest on up:
I always use incompetech.com for my video projects. Tons of free music that fits most moods; just add attribution in end-cards. Also, you get to keep your ad revenue.
Good for-comedy, electronica, silent-film emulation, wonder, epic battle scenes, and the occasional heavy-handed horror
Bad for-most work for hire (if they mind you adding attribution at the end), warm intro scenes (no music in the same vein as the "Concerning Hobbits" theme, for instance), hits and risers.
If there's nothing there, there are several other free, creative-commons music sites, though none as big as incompetech.com. Kevin MacLeod, the guy who runs incompetech, makes a list of recommendations on his FAQ page: incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/faq.html
Good for-a bunch of esoteric stuff, high production value
Bad for-tight deadlines. Sorting through all of the sites listed there until you find what you want is difficult and time consuming. Also, there's no guarantee that what you're looking for is even there to be found. Finally, the music is seldom broken into instrumental tracks and rarely offers much customization, so like incompetech, bad for hits and risers and the like.
If you need something you can't find there, you can try some of the commercial sites; jewelbeat.com, for instance, has quite a bit of music at $2.99 apiece.
Good for: I can't speak as to the quality, since I've never used it, but 3 bucks is pretty darn cheap.
Bad for: Again, I can't speak to its quality, but I can say that it's not free. Unfortunate, but musicians have to eat just like the rest of us.
Otherwise, you could maybe wait for one of the triune store's sales and pick up a pack o' music goodness.
Good for-hits and risers, building up drama, garden-variety horror, classy scores broken into constituent parts. Also, your purchase supports Ryan Connolly, which is probably a good thing.
Bad for-there are several things they just don't have; those they do are pretty good, but you will have to pay, and it can be a bit pricey.
If nothing there fits your purpose, you may need to hire a composer; expect to pay about $100 per finished minute of music. Hope this helps.
Some UA-cam Commenter Thanks man, appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I'll definitely take a look at everything.
Can you give me led ligh watt /voltage details and price
so she mentioned what "Safety" means but what about "Re-patch"?
How would I shoot computer and phone screens?
+Marcus Picov-Aida I'm no pro, but here are my 2 cents. Screens have several properties that will prevent you from shooting them well:
1. Refresh rate: Most screens don't actually show a static image. They refresh the visible image at a certain interval. (The human eye won't notice, but a camera will.) To counter this, set your screen and camera to the same refresh rate or, if possible, genlock them so they run in sync.
2. Contrast: Screens are designed to be looked at straight on. If you're trying to film them from the side or at an angle, you'll notice that the image becomes difficult to see/capture. There isn't much you can do about this other than to try and capture the screen at the best angle possible.
3. Light: Screens emit light, so trying to film them is basically like pointing a camera at a light: You'll have to close the aperture and/or increase the shutter speed (keeping in mind problem 1) to reduce the amount of light coming into the camera. As a result, anything surrounding the screen needs to be very well lit, otherwise you'll lose it. (Lower the brightness of your screen and bring in more light around it so see if that helps counter the effect.)
Why always use the top riser first???
imagine if you start with the bottom and middle risers and max them out, but then you're asked to raise it even higher, and you realize the top riser is out of reach
OMg the VGHS stuff in the background tho ... X
Where is this next video haha
thanks :D
Wow that the humble clothes peg has never sounded so cool. 'hand me a c47 dear would you my socks need more support.'
There was never a follow up video.... :(
thanks guys
Hello madam I like you video plz give some more videos
Pls if your out there i need help im starting to be a grip crew in a filming industry in ph i think i need some help i hope you get this message and thank you :)
School ends in 02 Days.
School Ends In 2 Days :(
I finished yesterday!
Ben Ashton nope one more month
That's a beefy baby stand not a combo.
That's not a combo stand :/
I was taught to say "going dark!" no "saving"
okay thanks!
I’m from England, so perhaps there’s a regional difference in terminology, but ‘going dark’ is always used as a call in the theatre industry to warn actors and crew whenever stage lighting is about to be completely blacked out, so I believe that’s where the origin of the phrase lies. I’ve never heard ‘saving’ being called in a film environment until hearing it in this video.
What about losers like me without money can you make an episode about cheap DIY alternatives please
You don't need gloves for an Led Light..Just saying..
Love to see this chick.
blooo-ooop :D
Hey baby. Are you okey
That's def not a "Combo Stand". Great video...but "RocketJump Film School" is definitely full of students not teachers.
Using gloves on LEDs, Kappa =^)
Pfff
All my films recorded on phone light.
Much better......
that is not a combo stand. Its a baby. Put the bag on the rocky leg, what the hell kind of gel is that? if you're going to make an instructional video, please do it correctly.
-an angry juicer
woot! now I can use all my lights and risers like a pro
PAWG