Nice video. I love the way you include those little mistakes like burning your hand on the faucet and accidentally freezing the wort you withdrew for the hydrometer reading - it shows a human touch and shows beginners that even experienced brewers can drop the ball but still turn out great beer.
Great video man! Thought I might throw a lil info at ya on Beta and Alpha amylase. Grains have starch in them. We mash to get the starches out of the grain, into the water, you have that down. Starch is basically a chain of glucose (sugar) because the glucose is in the form of a chain it can't be consumed by the yeast. Alpha enzymes break the starch chain up into smaller pieces called dextrin this is not a fermentable sugar. Beta enzymes go after the dextrin's and eat at them from the ends, breaking them down into fermentable glucose (sugar). Picture it like this, you go to the butcher's shop and get a long string of sausage. You have to break up the string to cook them, that's the Alpha working. Now you chop them up into pieces so you can eat them that's the Beta working. Once in small piece's the yeast can eat them and basically burp co2 and fart out alcohol. That's enzymes 101.
I wish I was taught science and history with beer. I honestly grew up and I just was never able to enjoy going to school. I always attended and I did okay, but I could never really enjoy it, and I left wondering if I was just an idiot. Then, I started brewing beer and learning about the science of beer and the history of beer and doing these math formulas to figure out my ABV, my IBU's and the difference between Alpha and Beta amylase, I've learned so much about microorganisms and yeast and how they react to beer and temperature. I've learned about farming, I've learned about the history of taverns and pubs and their significance to the world. Since starting my homebrewing career, I've wanted to go back to college for biochemistry. If they made things in school as interesting as the science of brewing beer, I would have done much better.
I got a question could you mash at like 145 for like half the time of the mash and then raise the temp either by sparging with hotter water to get the final temp need in the end and have both?
I’ve brewed about 50 extract brews. I’ve been looking to get back into it and researching All grain. This is by far the most informational and straightforward video I’ve seen so far. I’ll be visiting Brewgr frequently. Also, be using this exact system
Brew extract will have you feeling like a champ in a week, this all grain is where boys become men. After some videos I felt like I wasn’t gonna get the beginning but you managed to speak in a way I would get it thanks.
I enjoyed the video; it was very informative. I've been making extract brew for a little over a year now and been contemplating the thought of attempting an all-grain brew session. Your video felt very straight forward and I appreciate the "doing portions" over the jargon. However, the "A-amylase and B-amylase" lesson was insightful. Thanks!
Im brand new, haven't even bought equipment yet, and found this video very helpful. I like how you took the time to explain the little things that others assume their viewers just know. Thanks!
Great video mate. Here’s a bit of useful info for you . If you used metric you would find the calculation of your water so much easier. Using your number of 3.83 gallons. If you convert this to litres you get 14.498 litres. But here’s the beauty of the metric system. Water has a density of 1gram per milliliter(ml) (or cubic centimeter cc). So in short 14.498 liters of water weighs 14.498 kilos close enough to 14.5 kilos. Just weigh the water. Keep up the great work it was very informative thanks.
I appreciate this guys humbleness and simplicity. I feel that more brewers need to follow the KISS rule (Keep It Simple Stupid). Being a very intelligent individual and a beginner brewer currently all in one, I have run in to the problem 9 out of 10 times that the person in the video is trying to make themselves sound like "the model avid beer expert" more than trying to lay out the steps in an understandable and easy to follow abc 123 form. The model beginner brewer video is in the form of "Okay, let me hold your hand and walk you through it step by step in the most simple way, just so you can understand the basics", and this guy has accomplished exactly that. At the end of this video I feel 100% confident that I could brew an all grain batch and not mess it up. After finishing many other "how to" videos I feel just as lost, or more confused at the end, due to all of the acronyms and abbreviations and "smart boy" terminology a lot of other guys use.
Really enjoyed your video! I've been brewing all grain for 15 years and still pick up new things by watching videos like your's. Also wanted to share a couple of things I do that have helped me. Instead of heating a separate gallon of water to pre-heat the mash tun, I just heat my strike water 5 to 10 degrees hotter than what will be needed for the mash, then pour it into the mash tun. The mash tun will soak up some of the heat and drop the water temperature several degrees, approaching your desired strike temp. If it's a few degrees high, just stir a bit or toss a few ice cubes in. Another thing I did was buy yet another brewing gizmo.. this one is a shaft with flaps on the end. You put it into a drill and stick it into the carboy. Then start it up, and aerate the heck out of your wort before pitching the yeast... costs about $15 and works great! Thanks again... you have motivated me to brew this weekend... gotta get those fall beers in the works!
Thanks for the video Jason, I really enjoyed it. One thing if I may : measure the original gravity (O.G.) after the boil is completed and the wort is cooled. This way you won't burn yourself. When fermentation is complete, remeasure the final gravity ( F.G. ). The difference times .131 will give you your alcohol by volume
Thank you for your easy to follow presentation I am an extract brewer thinking seriously doing allgrain as an addition . I enjoyed your video very much cheers from downunder
This is a great clear explanation. You also are very helpful sharing how to use and build tools. I was starting BIAB for my first few all grains, now I have confidence I can do a much better job with this tutorial.
Great, detailed video! New research is showing that beta-glucans are much more important than mash temp when it comes to body and sweetness of a beer. A high mash temp will lead to lower attenuation but not a sweeter beer. This will be dependent on your total grain bill. Brulosophy is a great resource for new information like this. Cheers!
Nice Video! I have to tell you, I've come back to this over and over as questions came up in my own brewing. I went to your blog and it said not to use your dowel to check quantity after the boil as the wood is hard to sanitize. So I went to the hardware store and got a 3-ft. long stainless steel 3/8" rod along with some stainless steel nuts and fender washers. I gave everything a good cleaning to get rid of any oils before I put it together, but used the fender washers for the gallon levels and locked them in place using the nuts above and below each washer. I threaded a file handle on the rod itself to make it easy to handle. and I can sanitize it pretty easily by dipping most of it in my Star-san solution and spraying down the rest of it with my sanitizer. Haven't used it yet but think (hope) it'll work well.
Temperature at which mash is made favors the action of Alpha or Beta Amylase. Each one "cuts" the starch chains in different ways, making them more or less fermentable. This is why you get a sweeter or dryer beer, according to the types of sugars you have at the end of the mash for yeast to "eat", thus generating CO2 gas and alcohol in the process from fermentable sugars. Starches are also called "complex sugars".
Thank you for explaining in detail. Other great brewers just go thru the process but for newbees it's harder to understand the certain steps. Awesome video and will do my first all grain next week.
Looking to build my own igloo mash tun, and finally deviate from extract brewing. Found this video very helpful to clear up all of the processes I've read about, yet had a hard time visualizing. Cheers!
Excellent video! You do an incredible job explaining the mashing process and the theory behind everything. I'm only just beginning, so I'll probably stick to brewing with extract for a while, but I'm saving this video for when I inevitably get to all grain brewing.
Thanks for watching! Get a couple extract brews under your belt and then make the leap. There really isn't that much more equipment or process. Cheers!
fantastic video! I love that you utilize recycling during your process! If i ever get to the point where I can get a decent setup, your method has given me great ideas. Very well done.
I gotta say, I was intimidated at first but after making the jump, I have not had one regret. I suggest buying an all-grain kit for your first all-grain brew just to get the steps of mashing down and then modifying or creating your own recipes later. Also, to make it economical, build your equipment to your liking. There are so many "how to" videos out there and it saves you hundreds on prebuilt equipment. More savings = more beer! Enjoy!
Greetings from alberta! Awesome video! I've got one extract brew in the primary fermenter but after watching lot (lots!) Of all grain brewing videos on UA-cam (yours being right up at the top for information and quality) I think I'm ready to give all grain a go. Great to see you re-using your wort chiller water also, that's a great idea that I'll have to do as well.
My man, thank you very much for making this video and clarifying all of my questions. I am new at whole grain brewing and found your video to be very helpful. I will start my batch next week adn will let you know how it turns out.. Thanks again my friend.
Great Video , However i have just completely wasted a ton of gran due to the conversion to metric not working correctly on the brew session screen. The strike temperature conversion was 13'C off
Suggestion, if you get a small length of silicone tubing that has a slightly smaller inside diameter than the outside of your sight glass you can stretch it over the top and back into the kettle to avoid wort jumping out the top during the boil. The silicone is safe at boil temps and is softer and more elastic than vinyl so you should get a good seal and avoid dripping down the side of the glass
Great vid. Brings me back to when my brother and I first started all grain brewing. Session IPA's are one of my favorites. Hoppy like a regular IPA but not nearly the ABV. For not a big investment a reverse flow or plate chiller (we use a reverse flow. Works incredible. Literally 200F going in and 70F out.) are def worth the money. Thx for the vid and hope u keep posting.
Great video! Just what I needed to get me started with all grain. You got me motivated to go for it. Thanks for the explanation on how the mash temperature affects the dryness of the beer. Been wondering why my extract IPA comes out too sweet all the time.
Ive been going to beer brewing class in Brussels. We do things a bit different. There are some differences in mashing temperatures. The usual brewing process starts off at 50 degrees, which is to break down some protein as food for the enzymes and yeast. for the beta amylase we have a mashtemperature of 60-62 degrees. the enzymes that work at this temperature bite off 2 glucose units off the ends of starch which is a massive treelike sugarstructure. yeast will only be able to eat a sugar smaller then 3-4 glucose units. ( the sugar u use in kitchens is mostly glucose) The longer u mash at 60 degrees, the more small sugars u make for the yeast to eat, which will leave less sugars in the beer and make it more dry. for the alpha amylase we use a mash temperature of 70-72 degrees. This enzym cuts all these sections of sugars straight in half. So these cannot be eaten by the yeast, unless u mash at 70 degrees for a long time. A longer mash on 70 degrees gives a sweet beer. We dont rlly start off mashing at 40 degrees because the malt house here in Belgium already did that part for us (activating the enzymes in the malt.)
Fantastic video man. Im from San Diego as well, and we are just getting into the whole Brew at home ordeal. So i will add your channel to my reference playlist for later. Thank you!
I do regular brewing, some. This seems to be so complex, so many steps! I appreciate the work you put into it and it seems pretty well done. At times, the mic loses your voice but for the most part okay.
Great video! :) A lot of hops there too.. it's an IPA but still :) Citra hops are awesome for dry hopping btw :) Also, it's sometimes advised not to use a lid on top of the boiling kettle, especially after flame out. The legend says it might lead to DMS [Dimethyl sulfide] being created and not evaporating through boiling.. no idea, I never use a lid after the boiling stars. Keep on brewing in the free world :D
+Tavis du Preez the only advantage I see in keeping the lid on is saving some energy during boiling, no..? and perhaps less water lost since some would condense and fall back into the pot.. not sure. If you can avoid a boil off with it on, I guess you could use it.. but I'd still remove it for the last 15 mins or so.
Greatest video I have seen thus far. I still cannot find any info if I can use old food storage un malted grains to brew with as I need to use them somehow. I read I can offset my malted barley with 30% of it as the long chain sugars will take longer to convert so that made me wonder. Can I just use more grain and longer fermentation to make all whole grain work? I might test this very soon.
watching you is like watching me. lol just dump it in. i do the same thing. never a single clump. btw love the illustrations. keep up the good work. cheers!
Great video. I have about four all grain brews so far and enjoy a good session on youtube. The pot holders looked pretty awkward and difficult to manage. I would think a pair of welding gloves might be safer. Subbed and liked. Keep up the good work.
A-amylase and B-amylase are the enzymes that break the starches down into sugars. The yeast eats the sugars, not the amylase. The B-amylase produces more fermentable sugars and higher abv, while the A-amylase produces sugars that can't be digested by yeasts. These sugars never become alcohol, but do contribute to sweeter flavors in the end product. Ok, I'm done being pedantic now.
Amylase is an enzyme. It is not something that gets "eaten" by the yeast. Also, regulating temperature does not make more of these enzymes. It just decides which of the two will be most active. Just a heads up. Great vid though. Thoroughly enjoyed following your brew session.
Hey, This was the best intro to all grain video I've seen! I'm about to start All grain brewing next week, but was wondering if you had any recommendations of the best equipment for a beginner to buy. Thanks!
Question for you. On your mash tun why do you use clear vinyl tubing instead of food grade silicone tubing that wont put off plastic off flavors in your wort from the tubing and wont break down over time? Just wanted your opinion on that!!! CHEERS!!
Never figured out where the washing machine water fit into brewing. Good idea though, use the water & pump of the washing machine to do a continuous sparge!
Hey Jason - dynamite video. Visuals are always so much better for guys like me so well done. Question: what word did you use at 9:41 to describe the filtering of that first gallon or so of wort? I noticed you poured that gallon back into your mash-tun the first time around but you didn't indicate so the second time around. Do you always pour that strained wort back into the tun? I assume so as that's likely the richest extract from your grain, correct? Thanks again - great work. Paxton
Paxton Watson Vourlaf, it is the process of recirculating the wort back over the grain bed to clarify it. You are using the grain as a type of filter that the wort runs through, kind of like a sand filter. And yes, I do this every time I disturb the grain bed, so before first runnings, before second or third runnings, and if for any reason i need to stir the grains (stuck mash) I will vourlaf. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks Jason - clear now. I always do at least one vourlaf but I actually thought it was just to rinse/gather additional sugars from the grain. Sounds like it's doubly important as it strains/clarifies the wort itself. Thanks again!
A great video but I would love to see measurements in litres as I live in Ireland thanks so how many litres of water would you use for a ten gallon batch Irish gallons using 22 lbs grain
Hi Jason, Thanks for sharing this video! Very clear and simple. Do you have any recommended website where I can buy all the ingredients, components for brewing.
Great video. Two questions: 1) I just brewed an IPA, smells great, SMR is right on, but my brew lacks that nice "tingle-on-the-tongue" towards the end of the tasting. I force pressure my kegs at 5-8 psi and keep that psi for my pouring pressure, any suggestions on how to get that nice dance on the tongue by those CO2 bubbles? 2) How long should I keep an IPA in my glass carboy fermenting to make sure the yeast are finished cleaning up the beer? My basement stays constant between 65-72 F. Thanks
What is the thermometer/volume device on the side of your brew kettle? Homemade? What did you use to make it (seems to be a pretty efficient and easy to use system)
Great video on All-Grain brewing. Makes me realize I need to get my setup down into the garage and out of the kitchen. Have you tried a plate chiller for cooling instead of an immersion chiller?
+Robert Baran My brother and I use a reverse flow chiller. works amazing. 200F in and 70F out. Never used a plate chiller. May work just as well. But either way it saves a lot of time and much less chance of contamination.
+FreethinkingSecularist I used one today for first time. Had the hose water run through a immersion chiller in a bucket of ice water. And the wort came out 68 degrees. was at 80 by the time I was done. Took about 5 minutes. I used gravity instead of a pump. Was my first batch, popped my cherry today. And HOLY SMOKES!! I am still completely overwhelmed. Seeing this video with 99% the same exact equipment makes me feel like I am just a little trial and error away. Now I gotta figure out this fermentation thing. My bucket is at 74. I cant get it lower without a major hassle. I have a temp control switch. Seriously considering a chest freezer. Do I just let it ferment until it stops bubbling? Then keg it and carbonate it?
doesn't the SG change at different temperatures? sorry i'm new to this. I went to instrument school and whenever we used a hydrometer we were taught to get a temperature reading for compensation.
One the best all grain explained brewing videos!
Glad it was helpful for you!
Nice video. I love the way you include those little mistakes like burning your hand on the faucet and accidentally freezing the wort you withdrew for the hydrometer reading - it shows a human touch and shows beginners that even experienced brewers can drop the ball but still turn out great beer.
Great video man! Thought I might throw a lil info at ya on Beta and Alpha amylase. Grains have starch in them. We mash to get the starches out of the grain, into the water, you have that down.
Starch is basically a chain of glucose (sugar) because the glucose is in the form of a chain it can't be consumed by the yeast. Alpha enzymes break the starch chain up into smaller pieces called dextrin this is not a fermentable sugar. Beta enzymes go after the dextrin's and eat at them from the ends, breaking them down into fermentable glucose (sugar).
Picture it like this, you go to the butcher's shop and get a long string of sausage. You have to break up the string to cook them, that's the Alpha working. Now you chop them up into pieces so you can eat them that's the Beta working. Once in small piece's the yeast can eat them and basically burp co2 and fart out alcohol.
That's enzymes 101.
Misfit1026 Great explanation, that really helps, Thanks!
Why can't science teachers explain things more like this guy?
I wish I was taught science and history with beer. I honestly grew up and I just was never able to enjoy going to school. I always attended and I did okay, but I could never really enjoy it, and I left wondering if I was just an idiot. Then, I started brewing beer and learning about the science of beer and the history of beer and doing these math formulas to figure out my ABV, my IBU's and the difference between Alpha and Beta amylase, I've learned so much about microorganisms and yeast and how they react to beer and temperature. I've learned about farming, I've learned about the history of taverns and pubs and their significance to the world. Since starting my homebrewing career, I've wanted to go back to college for biochemistry. If they made things in school as interesting as the science of brewing beer, I would have done much better.
I can't figure out that why is it when I drink beer for every one I drink it seems that I pee two out! What does science call that?
I got a question could you mash at like 145 for like half the time of the mash and then raise the temp either by sparging with hotter water to get the final temp need in the end and have both?
I’ve brewed about 50 extract brews. I’ve been looking to get back into it and researching All grain. This is by far the most informational and straightforward video I’ve seen so far. I’ll be visiting Brewgr frequently. Also, be using this exact system
Brew extract will have you feeling like a champ in a week, this all grain is where boys become men. After some videos I felt like I wasn’t gonna get the beginning but you managed to speak in a way I would get it thanks.
Glad to help!
One of the simplest All Grain explanations i have seen, well done
I enjoyed the video; it was very informative. I've been making extract brew for a little over a year now and been contemplating the thought of attempting an all-grain brew session. Your video felt very straight forward and I appreciate the "doing portions" over the jargon. However, the "A-amylase and B-amylase" lesson was insightful. Thanks!
Great video. All of the viewers really appreciate not editing out anything. Even the mistakes looks great
Im brand new, haven't even bought equipment yet, and found this video very helpful. I like how you took the time to explain the little things that others assume their viewers just know. Thanks!
Great video mate. Here’s a bit of useful info for you . If you used metric you would find the calculation of your water so much easier. Using your number of 3.83 gallons. If you convert this to litres you get 14.498 litres. But here’s the beauty of the metric system. Water has a density of 1gram per milliliter(ml) (or cubic centimeter cc). So in short 14.498 liters of water weighs 14.498 kilos close enough to 14.5 kilos. Just weigh the water. Keep up the great work it was very informative thanks.
Metric is definitely way easier... thanks for the tip!
I appreciate this guys humbleness and simplicity. I feel that more brewers need to follow the KISS rule (Keep It Simple Stupid). Being a very intelligent individual and a beginner brewer currently all in one, I have run in to the problem 9 out of 10 times that the person in the video is trying to make themselves sound like "the model avid beer expert" more than trying to lay out the steps in an understandable and easy to follow abc 123 form. The model beginner brewer video is in the form of "Okay, let me hold your hand and walk you through it step by step in the most simple way, just so you can understand the basics", and this guy has accomplished exactly that. At the end of this video I feel 100% confident that I could brew an all grain batch and not mess it up. After finishing many other "how to" videos I feel just as lost, or more confused at the end, due to all of the acronyms and abbreviations and "smart boy" terminology a lot of other guys use.
Really enjoyed your video! I've been brewing all grain for 15 years and still pick up new things by watching videos like your's. Also wanted to share a couple of things I do that have helped me. Instead of heating a separate gallon of water to pre-heat the mash tun, I just heat my strike water 5 to 10 degrees hotter than what will be needed for the mash, then pour it into the mash tun. The mash tun will soak up some of the heat and drop the water temperature several degrees, approaching your desired strike temp. If it's a few degrees high, just stir a bit or toss a few ice cubes in. Another thing I did was buy yet another brewing gizmo.. this one is a shaft with flaps on the end. You put it into a drill and stick it into the carboy. Then start it up, and aerate the heck out of your wort before pitching the yeast... costs about $15 and works great! Thanks again... you have motivated me to brew this weekend... gotta get those fall beers in the works!
Great Video. No complicated, you explain very clear. I liked
Glad it helped!
Excellent video. Good pictures, clear explanations, slow and calm. I will recommend your video to many other homebrewers. Bravo.
Thanks for the video Jason, I really enjoyed it. One thing if I may : measure the original gravity (O.G.) after the boil is completed and the wort is cooled. This way you won't burn yourself. When fermentation is complete, remeasure the final gravity ( F.G.
). The difference times .131 will give you your alcohol by volume
from a relative beginner this is a great video, I appreciate the steps and camera angles you took to demonstrate. wish me luck!
Hi from Toronto! Thanks for this video...I've come back to it a few times now and find it very helpful!
Thanks from San Diego!
This is a great instructional video! Not too complex, just what you need to know! Great job man!
Thanks. Been wanting to move to all grain, but haven't made the jump yet. This will definitely get me going.
Thank you for your easy to follow presentation I am an extract brewer thinking seriously doing allgrain as an addition .
I enjoyed your video very much cheers from downunder
i have seen a gazillion brewing video's..... this is the best one
This is a great clear explanation. You also are very helpful sharing how to use and build tools. I was starting BIAB for my first few all grains, now I have confidence I can do a much better job with this tutorial.
This was one of the videos i studied while learning about the brewing process! Thanks Brewgr!
Great, detailed video! New research is showing that beta-glucans are much more important than mash temp when it comes to body and sweetness of a beer. A high mash temp will lead to lower attenuation but not a sweeter beer. This will be dependent on your total grain bill. Brulosophy is a great resource for new information like this. Cheers!
Nice Video! I have to tell you, I've come back to this over and over as questions came up in my own brewing.
I went to your blog and it said not to use your dowel to check quantity after the boil as the wood is hard to sanitize. So I went to the hardware store and got a 3-ft. long stainless steel 3/8" rod along with some stainless steel nuts and fender washers. I gave everything a good cleaning to get rid of any oils before I put it together, but used the fender washers for the gallon levels and locked them in place using the nuts above and below each washer. I threaded a file handle on the rod itself to make it easy to handle. and I can sanitize it pretty easily by dipping most of it in my Star-san solution and spraying down the rest of it with my sanitizer. Haven't used it yet but think (hope) it'll work well.
Yea black board was a great idea. This is the best all grain how to video Iv seen. Thanks man.
Temperature at which mash is made favors the action of Alpha or Beta Amylase. Each one "cuts" the starch chains in different ways, making them more or less fermentable. This is why you get a sweeter or dryer beer, according to the types of sugars you have at the end of the mash for yeast to "eat", thus generating CO2 gas and alcohol in the process from fermentable sugars. Starches are also called "complex sugars".
Thank you for explaining in detail. Other great brewers just go thru the process but for newbees it's harder to understand the certain steps. Awesome video and will do my first all grain next week.
Looking to build my own igloo mash tun, and finally deviate from extract brewing. Found this video very helpful to clear up all of the processes I've read about, yet had a hard time visualizing. Cheers!
Thank You for posting the video. I am starting to get my all grain equipment together and hope to be brewing soon.
Excellent video! You do an incredible job explaining the mashing process and the theory behind everything. I'm only just beginning, so I'll probably stick to brewing with extract for a while, but I'm saving this video for when I inevitably get to all grain brewing.
Thanks for watching! Get a couple extract brews under your belt and then make the leap. There really isn't that much more equipment or process. Cheers!
fantastic video! I love that you utilize recycling during your process! If i ever get to the point where I can get a decent setup, your method has given me great ideas. Very well done.
Enjoyed the vid. I have been brewing for about 18 months, and started all grain last summer.
Never tried batch sparge.
Very informative video. I've been intimidated to make the switch to all-grain, but you make it seem effortless. Great stuff!
I gotta say, I was intimidated at first but after making the jump, I have not had one regret. I suggest buying an all-grain kit for your first all-grain brew just to get the steps of mashing down and then modifying or creating your own recipes later. Also, to make it economical, build your equipment to your liking. There are so many "how to" videos out there and it saves you hundreds on prebuilt equipment. More savings = more beer! Enjoy!
Greetings from alberta! Awesome video! I've got one extract brew in the primary fermenter but after watching lot (lots!) Of all grain brewing videos on UA-cam (yours being right up at the top for information and quality) I think I'm ready to give all grain a go. Great to see you re-using your wort chiller water also, that's a great idea that I'll have to do as well.
Good video! Breaking down the alpha and beta sugars via mash temp will save many home brewers first few batches. Cheers
My man, thank you very much for making this video and clarifying all of my questions. I am new at whole grain brewing and found your video to be very helpful. I will start my batch next week adn will let you know how it turns out.. Thanks again my friend.
Awesome video mate, All the way from Australia :) I plan on doing my first all grain brew in a few weeks
Great Video , However i have just completely wasted a ton of gran due to the conversion to metric not working correctly on the brew session screen. The strike temperature conversion was 13'C off
Suggestion, if you get a small length of silicone tubing that has a slightly smaller inside diameter than the outside of your sight glass you can stretch it over the top and back into the kettle to avoid wort jumping out the top during the boil. The silicone is safe at boil temps and is softer and more elastic than vinyl so you should get a good seal and avoid dripping down the side of the glass
Thanks for your video. It helped provide me with much needed confidence for my first all grain brew!
I really like your videos and your soft voice is therapeutic
Village Park Source Would you happen to know about ASMR? If not, you should look it up. From your comment I can tell you have the ''tingles''.
Great vid. Brings me back to when my brother and I first started all grain brewing. Session IPA's are one of my favorites. Hoppy like a regular IPA but not nearly the ABV. For not a big investment a reverse flow or plate chiller (we use a reverse flow. Works incredible. Literally 200F going in and 70F out.) are def worth the money. Thx for the vid and hope u keep posting.
FINALLY! A well done, well explained video. Bravo sir.
I like your use of a blackboard for discussion (ala Alton Brown or Glenn Beck). I might use that for my videos. Thanks!
This is a great video. Fun to watch and a lot of good brew day info.
Great video , I am doing my first in the morning and you just made it so clear. A big thanks from New Zealand Bro.
Great video! Just what I needed to get me started with all grain. You got me motivated to go for it.
Thanks for the explanation on how the mash temperature affects the dryness of the beer. Been wondering why my extract IPA comes out too sweet all the time.
Ive been going to beer brewing class in Brussels. We do things a bit different. There are some differences in mashing temperatures. The usual brewing process starts off at 50 degrees, which is to break down some protein as food for the enzymes and yeast. for the beta amylase we have a mashtemperature of 60-62 degrees. the enzymes that work at this temperature bite off 2 glucose units off the ends of starch which is a massive treelike sugarstructure. yeast will only be able to eat a sugar smaller then 3-4 glucose units. ( the sugar u use in kitchens is mostly glucose) The longer u mash at 60 degrees, the more small sugars u make for the yeast to eat, which will leave less sugars in the beer and make it more dry. for the alpha amylase we use a mash temperature of 70-72 degrees. This enzym cuts all these sections of sugars straight in half. So these cannot be eaten by the yeast, unless u mash at 70 degrees for a long time. A longer mash on 70 degrees gives a sweet beer. We dont rlly start off mashing at 40 degrees because the malt house here in Belgium already did that part for us (activating the enzymes in the malt.)
Fahrenheit verses Celsius
Fantastic video man. Im from San Diego as well, and we are just getting into the whole Brew at home ordeal. So i will add your channel to my reference playlist for later. Thank you!
Great vid . I wish i would have watched this before i did my first all grain brew today. Cheers
I do regular brewing, some. This seems to be so complex, so many steps! I appreciate the work you put into it and it seems pretty well done. At times, the mic loses your voice but for the most part okay.
Thanks for watching! You can do it!
Great video! :) A lot of hops there too.. it's an IPA but still :) Citra hops are awesome for dry hopping btw :)
Also, it's sometimes advised not to use a lid on top of the boiling kettle, especially after flame out. The legend says it might lead to DMS [Dimethyl sulfide] being created and not evaporating through boiling.. no idea, I never use a lid after the boiling stars.
Keep on brewing in the free world :D
+Alan Higgins perhaps its important to keep the lid off during the boil but after the boil it doesn't matter?
+Tavis du Preez the only advantage I see in keeping the lid on is saving some energy during boiling, no..? and perhaps less water lost since some would condense and fall back into the pot.. not sure. If you can avoid a boil off with it on, I guess you could use it.. but I'd still remove it for the last 15 mins or so.
I agree
Really cool video! You should make plenty more of them.
Just getting into all grain, thanks for the video, great tutorial man!
I would love to have this brew kettle, nice job bromance...
Great video. You simplified what I was thinking was going to be very complicated.
Cheers
Great informative vid. Could you tell me why you didn't use a muslin bag to add the hops?
You could add the wort chiller at the end of the boil. And most hydrometers will withstand the hot wort, then use software for correction.
Great video, thank you very much. I really appreciated the fact that you simplified the process. Cheers !
Very helpful and informative video, thank you!
You have a lot to learn my friend, good luck it is an enjoyable journey.
it is correctly told about malt. Amylases are very important and manufacturers rarely show in the specification.
Greatest video I have seen thus far. I still cannot find any info if I can use old food storage un malted grains to brew with as I need to use them somehow. I read I can offset my malted barley with 30% of it as the long chain sugars will take longer to convert so that made me wonder. Can I just use more grain and longer fermentation to make all whole grain work? I might test this very soon.
Can you discuss how you built your fermentation chamber (assuming you built it)? Thanks. Great video by the way.
watching you is like watching me. lol just dump it in. i do the same thing. never a single clump. btw love the illustrations. keep up the good work. cheers!
Excellent guide. Great quality, thanks!
Excellent info! Thanks for helping a newbie out!
Easy and clean video congrats. How did you filter your hops pre fermenter?
cheers mate, excellent video will definitely help for my first brew. ipa's 4 days
great video..explains the process really well..thanks
If you use pellet hops can I suggest using muslin bags, less hassle in terms of cleaning
Great video. I have about four all grain brews so far and enjoy a good session on youtube. The pot holders looked pretty awkward and difficult to manage. I would think a pair of welding gloves might be safer. Subbed and liked. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the easy to follow video, made the transition easy
Very helpful video covering the entire brewday session. You have some nice DIY pieces of equipment too.
ps. nice sleds in the corner
Thanks for your hard work. Well done.
A-amylase and B-amylase are the enzymes that break the starches down into sugars. The yeast eats the sugars, not the amylase. The B-amylase produces more fermentable sugars and higher abv, while the A-amylase produces sugars that can't be digested by yeasts. These sugars never become alcohol, but do contribute to sweeter flavors in the end product.
Ok, I'm done being pedantic now.
Biochem 101
what is a pedantic....like from another?....PLANET....OMG...SAY IT AIN'T SO...THE PEDANTICS ARE INVADING :]
But B can’t break down larger sugars, it needs A to break it down some so B can break it down further
This was great! Very accessible language for newbies like me (:
Hi Jason.
Great video.
Do you have any information on the equipment you used for the wort chilled recirculation?.
Make some more videos buddy
Amylase is an enzyme. It is not something that gets "eaten" by the yeast. Also, regulating temperature does not make more of these enzymes. It just decides which of the two will be most active. Just a heads up. Great vid though. Thoroughly enjoyed following your brew session.
Hey,
This was the best intro to all grain video I've seen!
I'm about to start All grain brewing next week, but was wondering if you had any recommendations of the best equipment for a beginner to buy.
Thanks!
Question for you. On your mash tun why do you use clear vinyl tubing instead of food grade silicone tubing that wont put off plastic off flavors in your wort from the tubing and wont break down over time? Just wanted your opinion on that!!! CHEERS!!
This is such a fantastic video, helped me a lot, thank you!
Great vid and set up. I have garage envy... and I like the look of your quiver - where do you surf?
Never figured out where the washing machine water fit into brewing. Good idea though, use the water & pump of the washing machine to do a continuous sparge!
Hey Jason - dynamite video. Visuals are always so much better for guys like me so well done. Question: what word did you use at 9:41 to describe the filtering of that first gallon or so of wort? I noticed you poured that gallon back into your mash-tun the first time around but you didn't indicate so the second time around. Do you always pour that strained wort back into the tun? I assume so as that's likely the richest extract from your grain, correct? Thanks again - great work. Paxton
Paxton Watson Vourlaf, it is the process of recirculating the wort back over the grain bed to clarify it. You are using the grain as a type of filter that the wort runs through, kind of like a sand filter. And yes, I do this every time I disturb the grain bed, so before first runnings, before second or third runnings, and if for any reason i need to stir the grains (stuck mash) I will vourlaf. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks Jason - clear now. I always do at least one vourlaf but I actually thought it was just to rinse/gather additional sugars from the grain. Sounds like it's doubly important as it strains/clarifies the wort itself. Thanks again!
A great video but I would love to see measurements in litres as I live in Ireland thanks so how many litres of water would you use for a ten gallon batch Irish gallons using 22 lbs grain
Question. When cooling what is the target temperature? Also, I don't have a cooling set up. What do you recommend? Ice bath? Something else?
Hi Jason, Thanks for sharing this video! Very clear and simple. Do you
have any recommended website where I can buy all the ingredients,
components for brewing.
Thanks for the nice video and informations about the process...
Hi cool vid 👍🍻 what's the size of your cool box mash tun
Thanks
This video is 8yrs old just curious If you still brew and what your into? Great video!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing!
Great video. Two questions:
1) I just brewed an IPA, smells great, SMR is right on, but my brew lacks that nice "tingle-on-the-tongue" towards the end of the tasting. I force pressure my kegs at 5-8 psi and keep that psi for my pouring pressure, any suggestions on how to get that nice dance on the tongue by those CO2 bubbles?
2) How long should I keep an IPA in my glass carboy fermenting to make sure the yeast are finished cleaning up the beer? My basement stays constant between 65-72 F.
Thanks
What is the thermometer/volume device on the side of your brew kettle? Homemade? What did you use to make it (seems to be a pretty efficient and easy to use system)
Nice video
Can you send me the stick measurement blog. I can't find that blog
Erlindo Ortiz brewgr.com/blog/post/2013/02/08/Brew-Tip-Measure-Stick.aspx
What was the name of the pump used for the wort chiller? I've never seen been used before.
Great video on All-Grain brewing.
Makes me realize I need to get my setup down into the garage and out of the kitchen.
Have you tried a plate chiller for cooling instead of an immersion chiller?
+Robert Baran I would really like to know more about the plate chiller for wort chilling. Hope someone posted about this. Thanks for the idea.
+Robert Baran My brother and I use a reverse flow chiller. works amazing. 200F in and 70F out. Never used a plate chiller. May work just as well. But either way it saves a lot of time and much less chance of contamination.
+FreethinkingSecularist I used one today for first time. Had the hose water run through a immersion chiller in a bucket of ice water. And the wort came out 68 degrees. was at 80 by the time I was done. Took about 5 minutes. I used gravity instead of a pump. Was my first batch, popped my cherry today. And HOLY SMOKES!! I am still completely overwhelmed. Seeing this video with 99% the same exact equipment makes me feel like I am just a little trial and error away. Now I gotta figure out this fermentation thing. My bucket is at 74. I cant get it lower without a major hassle. I have a temp control switch. Seriously considering a chest freezer. Do I just let it ferment until it stops bubbling? Then keg it and carbonate it?
doesn't the SG change at different temperatures? sorry i'm new to this. I went to instrument school and whenever we used a hydrometer we were taught to get a temperature reading for compensation.
When you sanitize do you heat the water up before you put the sanitizer in or do you just put sanitizer in warm water.