Thank you so much for a step by step! The only time Ive used my system, a buddy helped me. Its nice to know I can refer to this video any time Im making a batch to keep from screwing up or missing something!!
Cheers friend we just found your video and subscribed. We love to home brew beer , grow some hops, make wine and meads and others on our channel . Stay thirsty and make good beer .
Thank you for the great video! Two questions: Why do you set the temperature at 23 for the cool off? Can't you just turn the heat off and wait until you have the right temperature? My other question: Do you have experience using either of the two automatic modes and is it worth it? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! I think I did turn it off, at least that's what I usually do. I've used the automatic mode once, with a recipe that had the mash at various temperatures for different times. Nice to have for sure.
Great video mate, very informative, thanks for putting it up. I’m currently thinking about getting one of these but I’m not sure which to go for the 110v or the 220v. How long did it take to heat the water. I have experience of heating water with electric here in the USA with a regular water kettle and if the element isn’t rated at least at 1500W it will take forever..might as well just use the stove. In the UK they have 240v and the kettles there have way higher ratings like 3KW/3000W and they boil in lightening time. The 110v Brewzilla has in total 1500W so it might not be that bad in the boil time. I hope the bitter turned out good, I’ve not seen that one! Fantastic colour! Nice to see Bitters here in the US, they are awesome beers! This is primarily the reason I’m looking at going whole grain as opposed to extracts. Coopers English Bitter is a great beer for anyone wanting an extract kit.
Thanks Neil, I made it for my buddies, who also brew with me. To be honest I put in hot water from my tap and with both the 500w and 1000w heater on it takes under an hour to heat the water for the mash. In total, for a recipe that calls for a 1 hour boil, it takes me about 5-6 hours from the time I start heating the mash water to when I’m done cleaning the machine and putting it away.
@@gagneahss Hi Michel. Thanks for that information very useful. 5-6 hours eh, I foresee some early mornings in my not too distant future! Lol. Here’s a bit of less useful info.. in Yorkshire where I come from and probably a lot of the north of England pint glasses are made to 22 oz( an English pint being 20oz) this extra room is for the head of the beer so that you still get a full fluid pint plus the head.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I just ordered this exact model. Have 2 questions for you: 1. When you have the grain basket in, I noticed you deflected the recirculating water away from the hollow pole in the middle. Isn’t it supposed to go down through that? 2. Saw that awesome printout for beer recipes. Where did you get that recipe with that nice layout of all the recipe info? Thanks in advance!
Hey Spencer, to be honest, the reason I do it that way is that the guy who showed me how to brew with his did it that way. I also like to have the flow go through the grain. Maybe it doesn't make a difference. I get my recipes from Beersmith.com. I've paid for the subscription, but I also think you can find recipes for free. It's my go to for recipes.
@@gagneahss Thanks for the response! I'm doing an Oktoberfest tonight. I don't have a hop spyder; plan on just adding pellets right to the boil. Should I be worried that they'll plug anything up? Like the pump? Do you leave the pump on the entire boil?
@@spencerherrick9392 if you have some cheesecloth you might want to wrap them up. It’s surprising how mucky the hops can get. I don’t think they’ll clog anything up but it does cut down on the mess. I do keep the pump running throughout the boil. It prevents the bottom from scorching
Hey there, I keep my fermenting bucket in my basement kitchen. It's room temp. Most beers like that. A lager needs to be fermented much lower, I put that in my fridge. To be really honest, other than that I don't regulate temperature too much. I know it has an impact on the fermenting rate. The biggest thing I'm picky about is sanitization, other than that I figure if they brewed beer 5 thousand years ago I won't worry too much. I haven't had a bad batch yet😬
Question: is there a reason you dont just start with the grain basket already in the machine? That way you can just slowly add the grain and not have to worry about the flow control too much.
I think it would be too messy. Having to pour in the grain while the water is circulating might be tricky. Having said that if you try it and it works let me know. I'm always up for making my life easier😬 @@xVoLxPaYnE
I read somewhere not to use the 1000w element with malt pipe in. If you are measuring the water using the tick marks in the brewzilla you'd be throwing off your measurement too, or maybe it will cause overheating of the unit, dunno.
@@gagneahss There are several strains of bacteria which will negatively affect your finished beer namely Lactic acid, Acetic acid, Enterobacteriaceae, Zymomonas, Pectinatus spp and Megasphaera spp. All these forms of bacteria can be eliminated if subjected to heat above 160°F (71°C) for a number of minutes, which a normal boil will easily achieve. So there is no chance. You're causing yourself more work but to each their own I guess.
@@gagneahss You should've mentioned to sanitize the hose for collecting the wort after chilling it then. It really was pointless to sanitize the hop basket before the boil
@@multicrosman6550 That's a point I forgot to make and you're correct. Probably pointless to sanitize the hop spider but it's easy to do and sanitizing is the one thing I try and be particular about. I'd hate to spoil a batch because something wasn't properly sanitized.
Best video on the 3.1.1 - thanks man!
Thank you so much for a step by step! The only time Ive used my system, a buddy helped me. Its nice to know I can refer to this video any time Im making a batch to keep from screwing up or missing something!!
Many thanks for this. I'm buying two so I can do plenty of Step 2.
You actually answered a question I had in this video thank you. Going to get my system next week.
Cheers friend we just found your video and subscribed. We love to home brew beer , grow some hops, make wine and meads and others on our channel . Stay thirsty and make good beer .
Very nice video. Getting one of these today. Thanks very much.
Gee I see a Festa re purposed wine pail..must be Ontario EH? 😉
Thank you for the great video! Two questions: Why do you set the temperature at 23 for the cool off? Can't you just turn the heat off and wait until you have the right temperature? My other question: Do you have experience using either of the two automatic modes and is it worth it? Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! I think I did turn it off, at least that's what I usually do. I've used the automatic mode once, with a recipe that had the mash at various temperatures for different times. Nice to have for sure.
HH stands for High Heat.
Hot Hot
Great video mate, very informative, thanks for putting it up. I’m currently thinking about getting one of these but I’m not sure which to go for the 110v or the 220v. How long did it take to heat the water. I have experience of heating water with electric here in the USA with a regular water kettle and if the element isn’t rated at least at 1500W it will take forever..might as well just use the stove. In the UK they have 240v and the kettles there have way higher ratings like 3KW/3000W and they boil in lightening time. The 110v Brewzilla has in total 1500W so it might not be that bad in the boil time.
I hope the bitter turned out good, I’ve not seen that one! Fantastic colour! Nice to see Bitters here in the US, they are awesome beers! This is primarily the reason I’m looking at going whole grain as opposed to extracts. Coopers English Bitter is a great beer for anyone wanting an extract kit.
Thanks Neil, I made it for my buddies, who also brew with me. To be honest I put in hot water from my tap and with both the 500w and 1000w heater on it takes under an hour to heat the water for the mash. In total, for a recipe that calls for a 1 hour boil, it takes me about 5-6 hours from the time I start heating the mash water to when I’m done cleaning the machine and putting it away.
@@gagneahss Hi Michel. Thanks for that information very useful. 5-6 hours eh, I foresee some early mornings in my not too distant future! Lol.
Here’s a bit of less useful info.. in Yorkshire where I come from and probably a lot of the north of England pint glasses are made to 22 oz( an English pint being 20oz) this extra room is for the head of the beer so that you still get a full fluid pint plus the head.
@@neileyre6019 LOL! Thanks for sharing that info, very cool to know and makes so much sense.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I just ordered this exact model. Have 2 questions for you:
1. When you have the grain basket in, I noticed you deflected the recirculating water away from the hollow pole in the middle. Isn’t it supposed to go down through that?
2. Saw that awesome printout for beer recipes. Where did you get that recipe with that nice layout of all the recipe info? Thanks in advance!
Hey Spencer, to be honest, the reason I do it that way is that the guy who showed me how to brew with his did it that way. I also like to have the flow go through the grain. Maybe it doesn't make a difference.
I get my recipes from Beersmith.com. I've paid for the subscription, but I also think you can find recipes for free. It's my go to for recipes.
@@gagneahss Thanks for the response! I'm doing an Oktoberfest tonight. I don't have a hop spyder; plan on just adding pellets right to the boil. Should I be worried that they'll plug anything up? Like the pump? Do you leave the pump on the entire boil?
@@spencerherrick9392 if you have some cheesecloth you might want to wrap them up. It’s surprising how mucky the hops can get. I don’t think they’ll clog anything up but it does cut down on the mess. I do keep the pump running throughout the boil. It prevents the bottom from scorching
Do you aerate your wart at all before fermentation? I noticed you were filling from the the bottom of your fermentation bucket
it's not something I consciously do.
Where do you store your fermenting bucket? Is there a special spot we need to put it? Does temp/humidity make a difference?
Temperature is a massive factor. Humidity should not effect a sealed fermenting bucket/carboy
Hey there, I keep my fermenting bucket in my basement kitchen. It's room temp. Most beers like that. A lager needs to be fermented much lower, I put that in my fridge. To be really honest, other than that I don't regulate temperature too much. I know it has an impact on the fermenting rate. The biggest thing I'm picky about is sanitization, other than that I figure if they brewed beer 5 thousand years ago I won't worry too much. I haven't had a bad batch yet😬
Question: is there a reason you dont just start with the grain basket already in the machine? That way you can just slowly add the grain and not have to worry about the flow control too much.
Stir the grain in as you go. May make the process quicker
I think it would be too messy. Having to pour in the grain while the water is circulating might be tricky. Having said that if you try it and it works let me know. I'm always up for making my life easier😬 @@xVoLxPaYnE
I read somewhere not to use the 1000w element with malt pipe in. If you are measuring the water using the tick marks in the brewzilla you'd be throwing off your measurement too, or maybe it will cause overheating of the unit, dunno.
Interesting way to mash in.
Was just thinking that lol
Why would you sanitize before the boil? The rolling boil will kill any bacteria.
I like to sanitize everything. It's easier than taking the chance that some bacteria doesn't get killed by the boil.
@@gagneahss There are several strains of bacteria which will negatively affect your finished beer namely Lactic acid, Acetic acid, Enterobacteriaceae, Zymomonas, Pectinatus spp and Megasphaera spp. All these forms of bacteria can be eliminated if subjected to heat above 160°F (71°C) for a number of minutes, which a normal boil will easily achieve. So there is no chance. You're causing yourself more work but to each their own I guess.
@@gagneahss You should've mentioned to sanitize the hose for collecting the wort after chilling it then. It really was pointless to sanitize the hop basket before the boil
@@multicrosman6550 That's a point I forgot to make and you're correct. Probably pointless to sanitize the hop spider but it's easy to do and sanitizing is the one thing I try and be particular about. I'd hate to spoil a batch because something wasn't properly sanitized.