Making A 32mm Parting Blade Holder
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- Parting on the lathe can be a challenging operation. It's good to have many options to suit different application requirements.
And to have replacements when one inevitably breaks ...
In this video I show the building of a holder that accepts standard 32mm high, 3mm wide parting blades.
"Holy Fuc?, these are bad." I wasn't expecting your honesty. Thank you, i'll defiantly subscribe after that comment, Your explanations and camera work are great, Thank you
Gotta tell it like it is!
Would love to se a follow up video testing different parting blades! Especially interested in the T-type solid carbide parting blade that Renzetti uses.
Cool! Unfortunately I've never seen a solid carbide T-type blade in the flesh before so I wouldn't know where to get one.
Sorry, I meant "T-type carbide blade". They're made from steel with a carbide top. Preferably with a groove in the carbide to promote chip-curling. It's apparently what he uses for most parting (even stainless and tool steel) @@ED_T
Yeah I’ve seen him demonstrate that tool and I have no doubt it works wonderfully when perfectly aligned. In his Hardinge he probably has to contend with horsepower limitations, but I’m not sure what he uses in his Tormach CNC lathe. I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s inserted parting blades.
Greetings from Indonesia friends.❤❤❤
Greetings from Belgium! 🇧🇪
Good work here, looking for more, thank you
Happy new year! Could you please explain to my slow-witted friend the connection between the counterbores and possible heat treatment?
Sure!
The largest fraction of the force in a threaded connection acts on the first revolution of the thread, following revolutions carry less and less of the force. This is because a bolt stretches when it’s tightened. For hard materials this may be a problem as they can be brittle. If the threads are not counterbored then bolt can break off the first thread and some of the adjacent surface. When a thread is counterbored slightly it has more meat to support the first thread revolution, making break-out of the first thread revolution less likely.
@@ED_T Thank you! I never thought of that, but I'll keep it in mind!
@@jimsvideos7201 Be sure to pass this on to your slow-witted friend!
I have a bench lathe so I can't go very aggressive on large diameter stock but what I've found out is using a thicker tapered HSS Co parting blade is less stressful. I use a sharp 3mm 12% Co blade with a tip ground to help with chip curling, works well but I have run it slow with plenty of cutting oil.
You have a couple videos showing parting off with a carbide tool where it seems to go pretty well. Except for that 6mm wide HSS blade 😉. The demonstration was about feed rate, it’s ok if the cutting speed is slow. It’s because of the low feed that the chatter started. You could try to go the Artisan Makes route and put a 3HP motor on your mini lathe to get enough torque, that would be fun 😁
@@ED_T I meant to say that for deep grooving or parting HSS is more forgiving and the thicker parting HSS blades are additionally more rigid. Carbide needs good alignment, chip evacuation and increased feeds. Lesser error margins overall, but for smaller dia. work (
Ah, parting... It's never been my favorite operation.
Once I got high quality parting tools it’s one of my favourite operations!
Yeah, like see follow up!
It looks as thought the blade is not held properly in the holder. Go to 34:43 or there abouts and you can see that the top part of the blade is more exposed as you look towards the work piece. Is the blade parallel to the motion of the top slide? Great vid btw, I've sub'd.
Excellent job..
Thanks!
Whenever I see people machining in thick jackets I think “man, I’m glad I live in so cal!”
You should use cutting fluid, a lot of cutting fluid. the blade breaks because it expands when heated and sticks to the edges.
The reason it broke is the tool doesn’t form chips properly and they jammed up just above the cut. I invite you to watch the follow up video where I put a better tool to the same task. ua-cam.com/video/7W56NKiRCl8/v-deo.htmlsi=FrTDn5dx-zlOoD6G
32:10 What shop vac do you use and also are you running a cyclone? Tnx in advanced
It’s a pretty heavy duty vacuum cleaner, no cyclone. It has a 60mm diameter hose, I designed some nozzles and had them 3D printed. The model is Alto attix 550-21
Sandvik CoroCut QD and CoroCut 1-2 always works. I haven't had much luck with anything else.
My go-to parting tools are from Iscar, it’s what I can get my hands on easily here. I’ve ordered their version of the 32mm parting blade to do some follow up tests
@@ED_T I'm a big fan of the Iscar Tang-Grip line of parting stuff. From tungsten alloys to 316ss to plastics.
Use cutting oil, and reduce the stick out of the blade to the minimum to part off. Rigidity is king when it comes to parting, lock the carriage and tighten tool post and toolholder.
I'm sorry if I wasn't clear in the video. This was a test, not a let's try to make it work situation. The blade and inserts did not perform to my expectations, where I know some of my other existing parting tools do.
I will repeat the test when I get my hands on a better quality parting blade and inserts.
Yes the carriage, tool post and tool holder were tight enough
Muy Bueno,porta Herramienta, y tambien La morza,No Tiene Ninguna carneada!!
grate video glad I subscribe to your channel :)
Nice testing! Im paranoid if I'm going powerfeed, I always hand feed and just send it. If you had flowing coolant it may not crash 50/50. And did you check to see if the Blade is true using the dial indicator?
My tool post is always aligned by indicator so I usually don't have to dial in any tools. In this case it wasn't either. There were no signs of rubbing on the flanks of the tool so I have no reason to believe it was out of alignment significantly.
Coolant may have helped, but to be frank I'm not interested in a tool that's so sensitive that it won't work reliably without coolant.
Next project should be Sine Plate to make angled setups easier. 👍👍
I do have a tilting vise but I was too lazy to pull it out that day. Lesson learned!
Why not using cutting oil? Using similar tools I find it makes all the difference,
I was looking to do a test, not a pampering. My existing parting tools can cut without oil or coolant no problem. So I expect a new tool in the arsenal to perform similarly. Coolant or oil will improve cutter life and I try to use it often in my regular work despite the mess that it makes.
Deep parting like this I would always put something on, it will reduce the drag of the swarf a lot.