Nice work as always 👏. A small advice from my personal experience, for chips breaking on a smaller lathe (event though the ramo is a strong lathe); keep the spindle speeds around 500rpm with 0.2 0.25 feed. I use cnmg 120408 tf general purpose insert, larger nose radii are very demanding on a machine like that. It puts lot of effort on the slides. I always work with a greater speed reduction between the motor and the spindle. Well done with your articulate arm, great shot. I thinking about making a similar grinding slide... Pierre
Thank you for the tips Pierre! Yes, some more experiments with feeds and speeds are in order. I had not considered nose radius when I got the roughing inserts, I will look for some 120408 inserts to try. There is still room to improve with the grinding attachment but it works surprisingly well as it is now. Happy holidays to you!
I had similar problems on my smart & brown lathe. Ridgid lathe, but not enought power. Figured out that insert radius makes most of the difference when it comes to chip breaking. Now I use chinese (a lot of brands some good, some useless) wnmg08 inserts with 0.4 radius. I do have few different inserts going from alu to hardened steel. Works great. Normaly I go 2-3mm deep and 0.2mm feed.
That depends on what it is I’m trying to do. There is no insert that will do everything well in every material. What I learned from these tests (and the comments mostly) is that I need some inserts with a smaller nose radius to get better chip breaking action. I think it will be interesting to do another video in the future with a much greater variety of insert shapes and grades.
Can your Lathe go heavier in cut. 1mm off the OD is only 0.5mmDOC(depth of cut). Try going 2mm to 3.5mm off the OD unless it cuts out. Well done on the tool post block modification.
The first two cuts in steel stalled the lathe due to a power limitation. I can take deeper cuts but I need to slow the cutting speed down even more to use less power, or reduce feed. The lathe itself if quite rigid but it has limited torque at high speeds. Definitely food for future tests!
I was hoping my lathe doesn’t qualify as a small lathe anymore being over 1000kg and having 3kW of power 😅. I guess the inserts won this battle though. I’m pretty sure the steel was a good alloy hence the good finish. Thanks for watching!
I guess the radius is too big for your lathe. You should try with 0.4/0.8 at most to cut over the radius and have chip control. Good voiceover also, nice addition to your video.
I like your channel & work...maybe i was one of your first subscribers...but...your tools have to fit in the lathe (make them fit), you don't have to fit your lathe to the tools!!! i can't understand that. 😟 ...
Yes I remember your comments on my older videos! I’m glad you are still watching 😊 You will be happy to hear that the tool post block which I milled off was not original to the lathe and was designed and made by me before the youtube channel. So as the designer I’m allowed to change it 😉
@@gworx-247 there is another reason too, a bigger tool is more rigid and will perform better in deep cuts. At some point I want to make a video demonstrating this
Haha it does not, the alloy of the steel was much stronger than I expected and the rpm was too high which demands a lot of power. Maybe the vfd setup can be optimised but with other inserts in mild steel I can take 8mm diameter cuts.
That’s possible, I don’t have a power meter hooked up to measure. The motor is driven by a VFD which has overcurrent protection. That’s the only reason it should have stopped.
I’m not sure what makes you say that but it’s incorrect. The toolpost is correctly sized for the lathe’s motor power according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
The quick change tool holder has a vertical adjustment so I don't have to do any shimming. The solid tool post was designed and made by me to be used on this lathe. It was made to hold 20mm tool holders which were my largest tools at the time. Now that I have a bigger tool I've decided to change that design and modified it. No original part of the lathe was harmed 😉
Filmed using the articulating arm from previous videos, let me know what you think about the shot angles!
Yyyaa
Very fine finishes and quality video of the proceedings. 👍
Thank you! 😁
Nice work as always 👏. A small advice from my personal experience, for chips breaking on a smaller lathe (event though the ramo is a strong lathe); keep the spindle speeds around 500rpm with 0.2 0.25 feed. I use cnmg 120408 tf general purpose insert, larger nose radii are very demanding on a machine like that. It puts lot of effort on the slides. I always work with a greater speed reduction between the motor and the spindle.
Well done with your articulate arm, great shot. I thinking about making a similar grinding slide...
Pierre
Thank you for the tips Pierre!
Yes, some more experiments with feeds and speeds are in order. I had not considered nose radius when I got the roughing inserts, I will look for some 120408 inserts to try. There is still room to improve with the grinding attachment but it works surprisingly well as it is now.
Happy holidays to you!
My lathe tops out @ 850. So much for the nice finishes of 1000 plus. Thanks for the video
Mild steel really needs the speed to turn out nice, but most alloy steels come out pretty good even at lower speeds.
I had similar problems on my smart & brown lathe. Ridgid lathe, but not enought power. Figured out that insert radius makes most of the difference when it comes to chip breaking. Now I use chinese (a lot of brands some good, some useless) wnmg08 inserts with 0.4 radius. I do have few different inserts going from alu to hardened steel. Works great. Normaly I go 2-3mm deep and 0.2mm feed.
That’s true, I should have payed attention to the nose radius when buying these inserts
Cool. So did you decide which one you're going to use?
That depends on what it is I’m trying to do. There is no insert that will do everything well in every material. What I learned from these tests (and the comments mostly) is that I need some inserts with a smaller nose radius to get better chip breaking action.
I think it will be interesting to do another video in the future with a much greater variety of insert shapes and grades.
Just found you channel. And now you have one sub more :)
Hoi Rustinox, leuk om je aan boord te hebben! 😁
Can your Lathe go heavier in cut. 1mm off the OD is only 0.5mmDOC(depth of cut). Try going 2mm to 3.5mm off the OD unless it cuts out. Well done on the tool post block modification.
The first two cuts in steel stalled the lathe due to a power limitation. I can take deeper cuts but I need to slow the cutting speed down even more to use less power, or reduce feed. The lathe itself if quite rigid but it has limited torque at high speeds. Definitely food for future tests!
Negative rake tooling is hard on small lathes. Seco does work well though, nice finish.
I was hoping my lathe doesn’t qualify as a small lathe anymore being over 1000kg and having 3kW of power 😅. I guess the inserts won this battle though. I’m pretty sure the steel was a good alloy hence the good finish.
Thanks for watching!
@@ED_T haha yeah that should handle the rake and moulded inserts, probably needs gear reduction then!
I guess the radius is too big for your lathe. You should try with 0.4/0.8 at most to cut over the radius and have chip control.
Good voiceover also, nice addition to your video.
Thanks Martin, I definitely need to expand my CNMG insert collection. I’m not really one to talk to a camera but I do my best 😁
I like your channel & work...maybe i was one of your first subscribers...but...your tools have to fit in the lathe (make them fit), you don't have to fit your lathe to the tools!!! i can't understand that. 😟 ...
Yes I remember your comments on my older videos! I’m glad you are still watching 😊
You will be happy to hear that the tool post block which I milled off was not original to the lathe and was designed and made by me before the youtube channel. So as the designer I’m allowed to change it 😉
now I understand...sure you can do that 👍, i was somewhat irritated...why milling the post instead of the tool@@ED_T
@@gworx-247 there is another reason too, a bigger tool is more rigid and will perform better in deep cuts. At some point I want to make a video demonstrating this
i agree@@ED_T
damn, does that lathe have an engine from a refrigerator?
Haha it does not, the alloy of the steel was much stronger than I expected and the rpm was too high which demands a lot of power. Maybe the vfd setup can be optimised but with other inserts in mild steel I can take 8mm diameter cuts.
over current? at how many watts? that cut should not be more than 1.5kw IMHO
That’s possible, I don’t have a power meter hooked up to measure. The motor is driven by a VFD which has overcurrent protection. That’s the only reason it should have stopped.
@@ED_T
you can easily check the vfd programming, but what is the motor rating anyways?
Motor rating is 3kW
433is for rhoughing bigger chip mor material to can take off
👍👍
Молодец!
You toolholder is too big for your lathe size, you need 3/4" tool holder and shim.
I’m not sure what makes you say that but it’s incorrect. The toolpost is correctly sized for the lathe’s motor power according to the manufacturer’s specifications.
@@ED_T What makes me say that, is that mostly you shim up, not start removing metal from tool post. I use 1" square shank on my 20x120 lathe. 😊
The quick change tool holder has a vertical adjustment so I don't have to do any shimming. The solid tool post was designed and made by me to be used on this lathe. It was made to hold 20mm tool holders which were my largest tools at the time. Now that I have a bigger tool I've decided to change that design and modified it. No original part of the lathe was harmed 😉
@@ED_T Thanks, I may have been assuming you were modifying a stock machine.