Parting-off on the Lathe - Rigidity, Rigidity... and a Spring!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 чер 2024
- After upgrading my lathe to use a solid tool post mount, I'm looking to further improve its capability to part-off stock.
Curiosity took the best of me this time and I'll be making a Spring type part-off tool holder to support 2 different blades.
Timestamps:
00:00 Hello
00:19 My new part-off blade
01:05 Let's make a blade holder
03:14 Cutting the AXA tool holder dovetail
05:31 Figuring out the blade position
07:02 Machining a slot for the blade
09:04 Making the blade clamp
12:22 Big chamfer on the front
12:53 Old me parting-off
13:26 Thanks Winky's Workshop
13:55 Let it flex
14:45 Tool holder height adjuster
14:56 Knurling
16:40 Broken tap
19:55 Finished tool holder
21:51 Tests: mild steel
24:17 Tests: 4140
25:18 Tests: Stainless Steel
27:20 Tests: Aluminum
27:59 Conclusion
#lathe #diy #machineshop
All functional credit of this tool goes to the Winky's Workshop youtube channel, namely the inspiration given by this video: • Spring Cut Off Evoluti...
Blade used in the video (affiliate link): amzn.to/47jsJWx - Наука та технологія
Hey... your version is better than mine! Ha
Hi Mark, very cool having you watching my take on your design. Thank you so much for sharing your many attempts to get a cut off tool that performs well and then share the plans with everybody!
@@nbrworks Any chance you guys would make these for others ?
I don't have a mill, or even 10% of the tools you guys do.
The principle behind this type of tool holder is to raise the fulcrum location. Ideally, it should be above the cutting edge, so that if the blade binds, it will automatically swing away to reduce engagement. This design used to be popular for lathes with threaded on chucks that could not be run backwards. On lathes that can be run backwards, simply flipping the blade/parting tool upside down and running the lathe in reverse will accomplish the same thing. Flex in the compound, which normally places the fulcrum location beneath a conventionally mounted tool and cause the cutting edge to dig in deep when loaded, will reduce engagement on an inverted tool running in reverse.
Good explanation and, having used a spring parting off holder I can see that you are correct. Also, the amount of spring seems uncritical as the tool will always flex just enough to unload it then feed in again. This seems to be the cause of the initial chatter one hears on first engaging the cut, until it settles at some equilibrium.
Thanks for the really clear explanation of why this works! The idea of turning a weakness in a system into an advantage for a task is so often counterintuitive that it isn’t even considered.
I never figured why the inverted parting tool trick was always reportedly so successful - great explanation, thank you!
Can't wait to try this.Thank you!
I'm sorry to have to tell you, that the saddle doesn't have provisions to prevent lifting off the front. But it does have a clamp to hold the read down tight. So running the lathe in reverse reduces the rigidity. The only reason why this might help is because usually the rear of the cross slide is worn out less. -> repair your lathe!
This tool holder is overkill and I love it.
I thought you would like it! 😅
Even a hacksaw used in its creation!
I cursed with you on that broken tap 😂 Very clever design and execution. I might need to make one as well since I have several T type blades and no way to hold them!
Hi Brandon! Nice to see you here. That broken tap...! I was extra cautious cleaning the chips and adding fluid. I was feeling the gummyness and taking things slowly... and then it broke with just a couple of threads to go! I went through the roof very fast 😄 but hey, at least I learned how to remove it. Can't wait to see your take on this!
@@nbrworks I know the feeling so well!! I need to increase my carbide mill/drill collection just so I can be prepared when that happens to me 😅 You saved that masterfully
I was super excited to see this double feature tool-build. Awesome video!
Wow, definitely a game-changer! Awesome build!
That had to be incredibly satisfying seeing how well it worked in the end. And since you made the thing yourself, you didn't just reduce your future parting operations, you turned them into a pleasure since you can now feel a bit of pride in knowing every time that it was your own work that solved that stress and wasn't just another purchase of someone else's work.
The first time I tried it I was very conservative and cautious (I was afraid it would break). Imagine my surprise to see it cutting steel like it was nothing. I was very excited that day!!
This just reaffirms my love for two-flute spiral-point taps. Even though that hole was pretty blind, OSG hypro ftw.
Nice one!
I've never seen parting-off be so easy :)
This is amazing! You just added a new project to my ever-growing list.
Ah! Know how that feels! Glad to help making that list grow 😅
Well done! 😃 Parting is often the bane of my existence lol.
Great video 👍😁👍.
Cheers!
Well to say that is an impressive end result would be an understatement.
Great video, your design worked well. The test cuts and speeds showed a great new tool.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, glad you like it!
I made a swan neck parting off tool out of a carbide tipped circular saw blade, plenty of flex but it worked lovely.
創意工夫、細心の注意、そして創造性の高さ
Beautiful tool and incredible result!
Thanks and welcome! Glad you liked the video and the comments section 😅
I'd say you nailed it,excellent job..
Fabulous work ! 😊
Great job, great narration, great videography!
One of your best vids yet. Nice one👍👌🇦🇺
Thanks! Nice to see you coming back!
One of my one day projects is to make the same type of tool holder but for a smaller lathe with a smaller tool post. I was struggling to come up with a clamping method.
Thanks for showing me the way.
No problem, glad you found it useful!
Very interesting to see you dealing with the broken tap.
17:50 Most of the machine shops I've worked at we save carbide endmills with chipped flutes, tips, or dull specifically for broken bolt and HSS tap removal. We crank the machines rpm to then sorta feed by feel, also the same thing can be done with a cordless drill for large equipment or Onsight repair just need to be carful of drifting with a hand drill.
Amazing video of making a great tool. Seldomly I can watch a half hour video without going fast forward. Here I did. It was exciting as a thriller. Very well done, Sir!!!
Thanks, that's too kind 🙂
Excellent build congrats
Merry Xmas. Thanks for the videos. It's very appreciated, I have been through the treatment in 2017 and know how hard it is, God bless. Regards from ireland
I saw this video sometimes before and forgot to hit the like button, but now again I searched it and saw the whole process again and hit the like and subscribed to this channel.
I'll download this video to see it again, whenever I need to design something else using your technology.
Grab Love from India Uttar Pradesh Agra The City of Taj Mahal,
Do meet me whenever you plan to visit India.....
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.
Great video and well explained, thanks for sharing.
I think the rigid solid tool post makes a huge difference. I always part of (SP200 insert) using the tool upside down that has the same effect as using the tool at the back of the lathe.
I have a Tapered HSS-Co blade laying for some time now. I put it on my to do list to see how it compares to my current setup.
Thanks!
Very impressive rigidity for a mini lathe
Very well executed. Hats off.
Thanks Michel!
Excellent result.
I also was inspired by the Winky spring parting off blade holder so made one. I based mine on the original Armstrong design. My lathe is tiny so parting was always scary!
It works a treat. The only negative is that it cuts slightly dished with no obvious reason. Watching this video I will try clamping on the bottom as that seems a good idea.
Did you check if your blade is square to the work? Or if the tip is ground square to the blade or if it's ground slightly towards the chuck or tailstock?
Also, how are you holding the blade and what size of blade are you using? I'm asking this because I can imagine my 'not so tall' blade flexing if it didn't have good support and if it wasn't square to the work. Maybe that's causing it to dish? Just a thought.
I decided to support/hold my blade with 4 screws from the bottom because I was afraid the washer might let the blade slip (it also allowed me to better support the 2 blades).
When you broke the tap, my heart sank, If it's raining virgin's you know you are going to miss out!
But, I like the way you managed to save the day. Well done.😊
Thanks!
Subscribed. Really nice adaptation of an interesting design. Now I need to make one. Not sure if anyone else noticed the first-rate camera work, clean audio and great scene composition but to me this seems a bit like Inheritance Machining with smaller equipment and a different back-story. At 3.2K subscribers today I feel like I’m getting in on the ground floor of something. . .
Thanks for subscribing and the big compliment.
Inheritance Machining is in a league of its own, it's really impressive what Brandon and Paige are achieving.
Can't imagine the hours and hard work! All the success is well deserved.
This video is doing well, but the best outcome of this has to be having more than 100 comments and not a single one (so far) of 'bad taste'. I thought this tool could raise some controversy but I'm gobsmacked seeing people talking to each other so respectfully about why it works and other technical aspects. Warms my heart.
My backstory... maybe one day ;)
Thank you
Espectacular, El Porta Herramientas !!
A very good design and result. I don't however you've seen the worst of what happens when parting goes wrong. I used to have a minilathe. When parting went wrong, it stalled. OK, not great, but I upgraded to a well used Harrison M300. 3HP motor plus geared head. When parting went wrong, it would snap the blade with an almighty BANG! embedding shards of the parting blade in the work and leaving me very nervous about parting!
However, I'm encouraged to watch more of your videos so you've earned another subscriber.
Thanks for subscribing. You're right, I didn't have a blade breaking yet, and one should respect this operation (as many others). As I say at the end of the video, I don't normally run my machinery hard, but for the video I had to show you the difference the tool made, hence risking it a little bit more. Thanks for the warning, it's sincerely appreciated 😉
You have deserved every credit given for this video. However I've noticed that you part-off with constant speed. Thus you have the correct cutting speed only at one depth during the cut, or not at all if you start too slow. By adjusting speed all through the cut has helped me to get good results on my (Chinese...) minilathe. A beautiful video anyhow./Ingvar
well done all the best to you and yours from John in Texas
Thanks John. Same to you 🙂
Well done, great video.
excellent video and work all around.. subbed; thank you.
Nice work, very thoughtful and well explained. I normally part off with the tool upside down, which prevents the tool from getting pulled in while also allowing the chips to fall out. I should try replicating your design. It's quite hard to get good quality HSS parting blades these days in my part of the world, the one I could find costs an arm and a leg. Everyone's moved on to carbide tools.
Thank you for posting, excellent work. I am an old automatic lathe setter, when grinding the front face of the parting tool we would angle the face from 90deg to approximately 120 deg this gives the job a far better finish with little or no ‘Pip’, the piece is not broken or pushed off but cut right to the end.
Hi, thanks for that. If you look at the chip formation on the 0.5mm test, you can tell I have it slightly angled. That was on purpose to achieve what you describe, but I think the angle was not enough as it didn't make much of a difference. I didn't play more with that because I thought a more aggressive angle would push the blade into the work (these blades are thin and will bend) and make a concave face. But with time, I will give it another go. Thanks for your input!
a few recommendations that might seem weird (or you might have drilled into you from shop class)
Most threads are made to tolerances rather than to nominal. if your taps are 6H (the standard, at least to me) then the M4 tap will cut the tapped hole to a minor diameter of 3.422 meaning you could use a 3.4 drill instead of a 3.3 and thus not only save wear on your taps but also massively reduce the risk of breaking one.
if you are tapping in any material that produces long chips, the recommended method is to drive the tool for one rotation and then back it up for a length equalling the radial distance between the teeth or until you feel the chip get cut. Getting the chips out more reliably in this way reduces the risk of them clogging up a flute and locking against the side of the hole.
Such a great work👍👍
Thanks Masi!
I had a very hard time parting off 2" aluminium round stock then someone suggested to give clearance along the length of the feeding direction, meaning cutting edge reduces along the length and it worked like a charm with good finishing. I cannot imagine now using a tool without grinding along the length but you here made a clean cut without your tool digging sideways. I guess i will try it use it, as my method reduces the strength of tool and regrinding tool tip 2 or 3 time makes the whole grinded length a waste
I can see the downside with that method, yes. Another thing that helped me before I made this tool was to progressively widen the slot with the part off blade. I'm not sure why that helped (maybe less rubbing on the sides?) but it did, and it's also safer because it accumulates less chips in the groove. But even doing that my lathe would stall frequently. If you want to try this tool with less effort making it, have a look at Winky's plans (link in the description). Thanks
I was cheering for you when that tap deserted you! Nice recovery!
Thanks!
If your setup can handle it, try to cut the dovetail in one go, feeding slowly. Because, with incremental passes, you'll wear the outer tips of the cutter way faster.
Thanks for the video, the trick to cutting off is to mount the blade upside down and run the lathe in reverse if you can. If you can't you have to cut from the back side of the cross slide. If the blade binds it swings down away from the part and all the swarf runs out the bottom, not on top of the tool.
Exceptional in all respects 👌👏👏👍😎
Huh. A precision band saw. Wild.
really nice work
awsome job dude
I understand the principle.
Instead of digging into the cut it is automatically backed away.
With hand feed this is fine as you can back off and cleanup next time round.
What i don't understand is under power feed when the cut comes back around the depth of cut will increase because the cutter sprang awzy the previous time around.
Why doesn't it flex away twice as much and 3 times as much and 4 times etc. building up each revolution ?
That's a great tool!
If it's any help for welding something to a broken tap the surrounding metal can be covered in a protective paint for welding to prevent the metal being damaged by the welding (sometimes correction fluid for typewriters was used).
"Broken Tap Extractor" or "Broken Tap Remover" tools are available down to M3 size for both 3 and 4 flute taps - have seen them sold inexpensively on eBay but not sure how good the quality of the steel is. I reckon the 4 flute version would be easy enough to make when needed using lathe then divider and slitting saw on mill - the 3 flute version maybe more difficult.
Thanks, I have a few of those now. Waiting to break a tap to try them... or maybe not!
if you ever need a good finish try inserts for aluminum on a36, or the grind relief and rake angles for alu if its a stick bit in the fly cutter a36 is soft as heck and leaving a built up edge on the tool making it cut like its dull. also makes it rub if the relief angle is not high. you could also increase the sfm to up the cutting temp but i think your best bet is to make the tool have a higher relief angle and rake.
Hi Brandon, thanks! That is something I will try. Appreciated! 👍
RE: Breaking tap. Something I do when there is a long distance to tap is ... if the design will allow it ... to counter bore the hole further to reduce the distance you have to tap. I think you said that part was 18mm wide. I would think only 8mm or so is all that needs to be treaded.
1) Tool should have as much contant with toolholder as possible, that reduce vibration. You have contant only on edges.
2) Higher tool is better in terms of stiffness.
3) Grove in the middle of carbide inserts makes chips narrower and help evacuation.
Bravo bon travail merci pour le partage
Brilliant. I'm jealous
I CALL YOU KING OF CUT
Świetny projekt. Daję 👍 i subskrybcję 😀
Although a pretty sensible accessory, present day machining is incompatible with this sort of tools. Throwaway carbide tip parting blades ranging from 1mm to 10mm standard come in different grades for different materials, have a high cutting speed (100 m/min easily) and feed rates (0.05-0.1). Replacing the tip requires just a few seconds and the CNC will be reset to the correct measure after the very first cut. Most of the blades are provided with a positive backstop preventing the tip from digging into the holder, thus ensuring constant accuracy when cutting grooves to a precise size. Since all production tools are standardised as regard height and width of tip, no need to check for correct centre height and their price is not exorbitant either. Anyway, a good excercise in fitting. Also, I cannot help noticing how well kept is the surface of your table, well done!
Beautiful.
Thanks!
a left hand drill bit often works well for broken stuff
Never heard of coolant, makes cutters last a lot longer?
Nice work
Thanks!
That's awesome.
It is a very nice looking tool, that does the job. Congratulations. Parting off stock in a lathe has been a problem since I started working in a shop (1966). Things have become better with the advent of the newer style tool posts. I was shown years ago that inverting the blade, and reversing the spindle would help. It does improve things a lot, but takes time to set up for one cut. No one was ever able to explain the mechanics behind the improvement.
Since you cross slide has t slots the full length, another approach might be to build a dedicated tool holder of your improved design with a tool either upright or inverted. If you use a parting tool a lot, and also the compound rest, it might be worth your time. I will offer an observation from personal experience. Grinding the back rake on the parting blade does work well, but devil in the process is that the center height drops as the front is re-sharpened. Eventually a piece of the blade needs to be sacrificed to return to the original height, and full blade width. As you lower the front of a tapered blade, you start cutting two groove widths. The “T” blades will give you chip narrowing and consistent groove width.
I do commend you for solving a problem in such a neat appearing manner, rather than avoiding it, and running to the cut off saw.
Hi Robert. You should have tons of experience! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share those observations!
@Robertqueberg4612
To understand the principle, you need to think about the toolpost as a flexible structure (which it is... everything is a spring to engineers 😊).
So when the cutter digs in, what happens? With the extra force of a dig in, on a normal parting set up, the deflection of the toolpost moves the cutter INTO the work, with either chatter, or more catastrophic results ... but any of the 3 options people have suggested in the comments (viz the design here, or a rear toolpost, or an inverted tool in a front toolpost) all 3 produce the outcome that the extra load of a dig in causes the tool to deflect OUT away from the work.
This prevents the catastrophic outcomes, AND the precursor chatter behaviour.
well that's worth a subscription!
Thanks! Hope to keep you entertained!
Yep.I second that. My next project...Thanks
Excellent.
Another oft forgotten parting off problems are the actual gripping of lathe hard jaws or lack of!
And or the rigidity of the lathe spindle!
The hard jaws of any lathe chuck become "bell mouthed" after time, and need to be re ground back proper for accurate and solid gripping, with little to NO chance for vibration or slippage.
Lathe spindle issues are also due to age and or abuse. This is a more problematic issue probably requiring a re build and new spindle bearings
I find that it's often better/safer to drill a bit oversize for tapping, especially in "sticky" material, or when you don't need full torque/ clamping strength in the location, as in a "stop", or a height/depth setting screw, so that tap breakage is eliminated (mostly)
You're right about that. In this case I could've/should've also used only a small portion of the hole threaded. Thanks for stopping by!
That really hurt, as I was watching you start to tap, I thought "not one of those !!"😣...& then SNAP ! 😥
Not a fan of those spiral flute taps... spiral point is my go to...and maybe finish to full depth with the spiral flute in this case.
The slitting saw twerking on that arbor was funny, I was waiting for it to grab ... 😂
Definitely, a scissor-type knurling tool is better, it takes all the loading off the spindle and cross slide and, for me at least, it gives cleaner knurls... (I have both types btw)
Really enjoyed this video, thank you 🤗
(You really deserve more subs with your content)
😎👍☘️🍺
Thanks! Yes, I think I will have to get one of those scissor type knurling tools, this was the second or third time I used mine and didn't like it. It puts a lot of pressure on the turning part/bearings. A hemingway tool would be nice, but I don't know if they are too big for my lathe?? Maybe a scaled down one would be better? Questions.
Slitting saw arbors, that's another one. They didn't grab because I was feeding very slowly, but I need to make a couple of arbors, that's for sure. Later, right now I'm working on something else! 😉
Great HM Home Tooling. As a novice, Question: what cuiitng oil you use on the ferris snd stainless?
Hi, I'm using maxcut no.5 from rock oil.
I quite like your just-a-bit-humorous commentary!
Thanks!
Excellent
very nice!
Excellant tool
Any chance for a drawing? I'm a first year apprentice machinist, and I'd LOVE to have a useful parting tool like this.
Anyway, very cool demonstration! Thank you for sharing.
Hi and thanks. Have a look at the community tab/page. I made a post about this. Also have a look at the description of the video, there's a link to another video with some plans to make the same tool, just with a different shape. Thanks
Oh dear - I seem to be the only one - I just don't get it! A cut here, a slit, a slot - I'm lost! where is the 'moving' part? I get the theory - well explained in EDesigns_FL post - but again, where is the 'hinge'? A drawing would be very useful !!!
Anyway, nice build NBR and I'm glad it works so well. Thanks for sharing!
Oh man, that broken tap - I know your pain! You weren't power tapping either and it still broke.
Best to play safe when hand tapping small threads and use a tapered starter tap followed by an intermediate lastly the plug or bottoming tap. Go in quarter turn then back off a full turn then repeat, never force it they will snap like carrots, if it's a blind hole regularly remove the tap to clean out the cuttings. Use dedicated tapping lube.
seized
If you use cutting fluid on your machine tool work you will get more life out of your tools and a better finish.
Tapered blades are called Johnson blade the t blade are t1..t2. T3 .093...125...187.tpn would be carbide tip...screw mach which your holder mirrors the ones used on old 2g machines
Those damn spiral taps are heart breakers; I've all but quit using them because of breakage, & I rarely break a straight flute tap, even tiny ones.
I was using one my straight taps last Sunday and just noticed how much easier it was. They were cutting effortlessly while the spiral ones were almost grabbing. I don't use those much, because they're "my good set" (maybe that's the reason why I should use them more) but I think I'll start from now on, specially on through holes. The only downside of that set is they don't have clearance (fat shanks) for deep holes. Cheers!
@@nbrworks Use them 'good' ones, otherwise you'll get ancient like me & regret it. (I had that experience w/ files; started in auto mechanics @ 12, got into fab & race cars, as well, @ 16. Spent decades as line mechanic, shop owner, car builder/racer. Didn't own a new file until 65. Never a priority/xtra $, also cussed & avoided them.
A new set of quality files opened my eyes to decades of dumb; a good file removes an amazing amnt of material; something 'zen' about it, as well.
I've relegated my spiral taps to non-ferrous metals, after I broke a couple, did some research & found the supplier had stated "Use on non-ferrous metals".
I wonder if there's been confusion between true spiral taps & helical 'screw' tap drills, 'cause I've seen vids of guys using spiral taps in drills. Yikes!
If you read about taps, you'll find different straight flute taps are designed to either pull or push scarf when threading. Blind holes were being threaded long before spiral taps came along. MSC's Big Book catalog, (print version no longer produced - online only), has good tap design knowledge/info.
Re: reduced shank taps
Finally got frustrated w/ reg tap shanks & bought a mixed set of under-sized shank pulley taps & nut taps. Didn't know there were taps specifically for threading nuts; very long taper on nose. Pulley taps are just what you'd think; long enough to get about the OD.
Both types are 6-7" long, ⅜ & under.
Later,
GeoD
👏👏👏👏👏👏Thanks a lot!
Dammit, now I have to make one of these. lol
Was the finish significantly better when you left one insert in the face mill?
Hi, I didn't spend too much time testing different speeds and depths of cut, but that finish was the best I got. I tried with 2 inserts (opposite sides) and the finish was not so good. The machine can't cope with 4 inserts or more, it's just too much for the motor. Using that face mill was more of an experience, I ordered the 80mm version, but got the 160!
Excellent work on that broken tap! The cut off tool holder isn’t half bad either.
Thanks!
2:05 I sure hope you put inserts in that shell mill it looked like there weren't any😂
It did a nice job. Imagine it it had inserts! 😅
@@nbrworks Hee hee, I mean it might work on aluminum... I'll have to give it a go...
14:20 - Would an oscillating tool work for this? Not sure what type of blade you'd use, but maybe something with an abrasive?
Not sure. I looked around what I had immediately available, but found nothing better that a hacksaw blade and my hands. I did try a 1mm drill on a collet but runout was too much. Also the surface was not flat, it would break easily. Maybe a long 1mm endmill would've done it with very light passes, but I don,'t have one and certainly didn't want to break one in there. By hand it took a while though, only 3 or 4 teeth of the saw were cutting!
@@nbrworksThe best tool for the job is generally what you have available, and your tool did a fantastic job.
@3:15 Having converted my only mill to CNC, I say to myself, "First, I sit at my computer and spend more time modeling the part than I would have spent cutting it manually."
Computers... can't live with them, can't live without them!
Do you think it improved things enough that a carbide insert tool would work?
Why go for carbide insert tooling that costs money when they wear or chip it , when you can just grind the end of an HSS for yesrs and years before you need to spend more money on a new blade? 😊
I don't have a carbide tool that fits in this tool holder, but I think it depends. If we're talking about a custom tool with a brazed carbide tip, I think it might work. If you were thinking about an insert tool, I think it wouldn't work very well. Normally those inserts are made with built in rake so that they sit horizontally in tool holders, also I'm not sure if they would resist very well to the 'hammering' this spring can cause on harder cuts. But, of course, I might be wrong.
@@chrisstephens6673 - Have you ever tried to put a C-clip groove in the outside of a hardened bearing race with HSS? Turn down the shank on an endmill for clearance? Had to cut down a hardened dowel pin? Make a part out of pre-hardened stock? Cut off a piece of linear bearing rod?
HSS is great when you can use it, but you can't always use it.
@@somebodyelse6673 no argument there, yes I have cut many ciclip grooves on gearbox shafts and ground down a grooving tool to 1mm to do it, but for general use I use the same blade used in this video set at 7 degrees. For small stock I use a 1.6mm blade again set at 7 degrees to horizontal. Between those two parting tools most of my work is covered but I do keep a carbide insert holder in reserve.
Your slowly is way too fast... Your cut off holder looks like a beast also! Nice work!
inforamtion: well it dint workout for me. It shatters anyway but a "L" shaped upsidedown iscar part offtool does its job.
I'm sorry it didn't work out for you. At least you found something that works. Cheers
i have the same bansaw but the blade always comes off when biting in the material, any tips for fixing this?
Hi, I don't have that problem with mine. Do you have the bearings adjusted and the blade under tension? Sounds like something is loose.
It would be nice if you could sketch the dimensions. Thanks
Hi, I just made a post in the community section with the dimensions. Any questions, just ask. Thanks
Some Plans would be nice.
Hi, I just made a post in the community section with the dimensions. Hope this helps!
I have a 3 Horsepower lathe with power feed and using the carbide insert tooling for parting.
However, it keeps on breaking the inserts when trying to part. Always towards the end of the parting where it's got only about 2 to 5mm to go from parting a 15mm diameter piece.
what am i doing wrong :'(
Hi. Seems like you don't have enough surface speed. If you're lathe has variable speed control, try to increase the spindle speed when you reach that point.
If you're using the power feed, try manual feeding, you should get a better feeling for the tool.
@@nbrworks
power feed is much smoother for me.
I really have to apply a lot of force if i try to manually feed it.
I was doing 40rpm. 2mm wide carbide insert.
parting off pieces 316 stainless steel and 8 to 35mm diameter in range
Where do you buy for band saw blades? Mine take too long..
Hi Michael. I buy my blades locally. They are from Wikus, bimetal (M42) with an irregular teeth pattern. All cuts do take some time, bear in mind that mine in the videos are probably shown at 500x or more. What I found with these M42 blades is that they last a lot longer than the original blade lasted. I have cut stainless, cast iron, steel and aluminum for a year still with the same blade. A couple of teeth are now missing, but still plenty of life left. Right now I have the bandsaw in bits, waiting for guide bearings replacements, mine just got too loud after heating up one time I had them adjusted too tight! If you are in the US, I read good things about Starrett M42 Intenss blades, maybe you could check them out? Thanks!
@@nbrworks I know! I was making a joke!
"Yeah, she didn't buy it either." 😄
Доброго дня.Как называется фреза на 19-51 минуте видео ?
это цельная твердосплавная фреза диаметром 6 мм (90°). Спасибо
English: it's a 6mm solid carbide chamfering bit (90°). thanks