Don't wipe your glue! -The best way to deal with squeeze-out
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- Опубліковано 25 лют 2018
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I find that with a reasonably good finish on my glue surface the dried glue can be flaked off easily with a good sharp chisel. One good tip I've been using for years is to dry clamp your pieces together, put a strip of packing tape over the joint, loosen the clamps, and carefully separate the the pieces by cutting the tape with a razor blade or Olfa blade along the joint. when the glue squeezes out it goes onto the tape and can be peeled off when dry. It's a bit more effort but as a hobbyist my time isn't money.
Great method - I've been using the same tape process for years.
@@colinellicott9737 not a woodworker but some of the sealants ive used in places where access might be an isssue , without the tape trick you are going to have a hell of a time....sikaflex is not pva.
Outstanding tip; simple and highly effective.
@Scott Leishman Imagine all the other places this could work. Fixing broken ceramics. Laying a brick fireplace. A BLT sandwich with Mayo.
That sounds like a great tip. Thank you, from a beginner!
Good tips. I bought a couple of silicone baking sheets for glue-ups and then immediately forgot I had them, so thanks for reminding me to dig those out.
Good advice. A technique I also like is to lay a stripe of painter's tape to either side of the joint, so that any squeeze out settles on that and none touches the surface of the wood. You can clean off the glue when wet or dry, and then just remove the tape.
Right to the point. No fluff. Awesome video, sir.
Short, sweet, and USEFUL. Thank you James.
I learned an old trick while I was a harp maker at Lyon & Healy. We would take a bar of soap and cut them in 1/4" to 3/8" pieces and rub the soap onto a joint where the glue was going to squeeze out. We'd wait for the glue to dry and then chisel off the excess. The glue never stuck to the wood and popped right off.
Very useful tip.
I have seen different woodworkers following different procedures. But the method you suggest sounds like one of the best in terms of ease of operation and strength of the joint.
That was a fabulous quickie Nubs! Short, sweet & to the point
I just saw this video. I always wince watching people wipe away glue with a wet rag as I was always taught to let it set up a bit and then scrape it off as you demonstrated.
Its not such an issue with paint, but if you plan to stain it is important to be patient and leave the glue for a while. It's impossible to remove the glue beneath the surface once it is absorbed by the grain.
Terrific video and to the point.
Thanks for the great tips James!
again, a simple but welcome help. Thanks James
Have to look for this silicon mats. Thanks for your quick tips!
Thanks for tip Mr Stumps. I learn a lot over here.
In addition to those silicon mats, a plastic dropcloth or an old shower curtain works great too. I also use plastic shopping bags.
Lovin all the quick tips! Thanks for sharing
Thank You So Much. I’ve been trying to figure out the best way for awhile now. I literally said Thank You before I even watched the video because all of your videos are so solid and offer so much advice.
Nice tip James, thanks.
Love your work
Avery good tip and it makes sense about the wet sponge. Thanks so much!
them mats, that's the best idea for glue drops I've seen. Thank you for that one
Back in the 90's the Furniture Guys were fanatic about not wiping squeeze out. Considering they restored fine furniture for a living I took that advice.
Always grateful. Thanks
Thanks! I'll give this a try. I know from experience wiping with wet towel forces it into the fiber like you said. I use hardwood plywood on a lot of projects so sanding it out would take off the veneer. I use cheap HF tarps for mats.
There's a woodworker on TV who always wipes his glue joints. Gives me the shivers to watch. Your way is the best way.
Wiping with water works just fine, No need to shiver..😎
Some great ideas thank you
Great tips!
thank you
Good advice James. I wish I had UA-cam 30 years ago!
I wish I would have seen those mats earlier! I spent just as much on one a quarter the size! I will definitely be upgrading, thanks for the link!
If you can't get such sheets in your area or simply can't afford them, you might want to try baking paper.
Baking paper has silicone on it, so you can't glue it to anything (which may be a disadvantage if you want to put it on a sheet of MDF) - however, you could possibly "glue" it to MDF by using silicone (I have not tried this - and it might even be pointless since you could just spread silicone onto the MDF).
I've never tried waxed paper - it might work and could maybe even be better if you're using PVA glue, since PVA-glue fcan be ruined completely by silicone. Waxed paper might be a little easier to control; it might be possible to tape it or even glue to something else it if you find the right glue.
I've heard about SAGA baking paper as well, but never tried it (out of reach, as I'm in Europe).
And I read below:
"I tried wax paper many years ago, and it doesn't work very well. The glue still manages to stick to the paper; the wax must not be a thick enough layer."
-So wax paper might not be the way to go.
awesome, thank you
Once again, excellent knowledge ( which I may never use, but it’s there if I need it. ) thanks ‘nubs!👌
Thx !
Good tip.new tip thanks from Holland
I also use a scraper, but the flat type, and push it. That way the excess glue accumulates on top of the scraper, instead of being dragged along the wood underneath it. And leaving it to go off a bit is also good advice.
I like the quick tips. Keep them up.
You own a dull chisel? Who knew?
Thanks for the tips, though. I remember watching many episodes of New Yankee Workshop as a kid. Beleive it or not, Norm dealt with squeeze-out in different ways on different episodes, sometimes wiping off, sometimes dry scraping. I needed someone like you to settle the score.
Thanks, i was taught that a long time ago, If you get glue into the wood it can make staining the wood look patchy 👍
Yeah I have an old scraper that I use for removing squeeze out, much better than a damp rag which I did use until someone else told me about using an old paint scraper or chisel. I'll have to look into those mats, I'm still using the old cardboard boxes from a few of my tools lol.
Cool tip.
Another good one is to use a straw for corners. Just force the round straw into the corner and it will form fit into it. Then slide along and the glue goes up into the straw.
Yup! We did a tip on that a few years back.
Nice tip! Finally have a use for the random pack of plastic straws that floats around the towel drawer.
Thank you, have been looking for an answer on how to my handle glue squeeze out.
These tips are great :)
My high-school shop teacher was fanatical about this! He insisted we use a card scraper to clean up after the glue dried and of course looong discussions on the sharpening and use of card scrapers, they were kinda his “thing”. I still do that sometimes if I’m making something really nice from expensive hardwood but normally I just wipe it off while it’s still wet. Occasionally it shows up but somehow I get away with it almost all of the time.
When I was in (high school) shop class my teacher told me to never use a wet rag to clean glue squeeze out. I listened to him and years later discovered that was bad advise. He wouldn't do it because he wasn't able to do it correctly and had bad results. For the last 50 years I've been using wet paper towels with a (trimmed) chip brush to scrub and wipe off glue squeeze out. Of course I use a scraper or chisel to remove the bulk of the glue, then I use copious amounts of water to scrub, wipe and rinse the remaining glue off. While I'm at it, I wipe the entire piece down with water to raise the grain prior to final sanding. It is the fastest and most thorough method I've ever used. And, I've used them all........
i personally use a dry kitchen paper to wipe the squeeze out, the rest that is dried out with a gentle chisel maneuver
greetings from a Finnish viewer, and a good year of 2022
Great! More, More ........
Thanks...rr
How do you go about getting around clamps on a panel glue up? I made my workbench top out of finished MDF, glue scrapes right off and it looks nice (except where I accidentally gouged it, lol)
This is exactly the method I use (with silicone baking sheets: you can find them really cheap).
I use wax paper to protect my tables and clamps. Also, I glue before the final thickness dimensions have been attained and use a card scraper. If, I'm at final assembly, and can't offer the piece any more sanding or machining, I use sharp edged scrap pieces to clean the bulk of the glue and resort (yuk) to the wet rag, followed by a 0000 steel wool rub down for any raised grain issues.
Great tip. You should have a cold one or two.
As usual good stuff, and if don't have the matts a clean mylar potato chip bag works great, it's going to be disposed of anyway, might as well get some use before it goes, lol.
James: What do you think about using wax paper instead of the mats?
I've noticed that if I don't completely clean the glue off with a wet paper towel then stain doesn't take to the area where I scraped the glue off. I use a damp paper towel, not soping wet. I've gotten into the habit of cleaning all glue off because it reduces my shaping/sanding time. For 50 years I've used a chisel and wet paper towel to hit the inside corners. So, I don't agree with letting it dry first.
Is this what you would recommend for plywood glue ups? My issue with plywood has been that the squeeze out gets into the fibers of the plywood veneer and its so thin you cant sand or scrape it off without ruining the plywood finish.
Nice ideas. I just use hot hyde glue which won't stain your finish ever and is even easier to clean up, but it takes more time and effort to use.
Exactly
Waxed paper works well for keeping drips off of whatever is underneath. You can also use wax paper right up against the wood, and glue will not stick to it. That includes even epoxy glue.
That's good e-nub for me!
Do you remove glue with the clamps?
If you seal or finish the wood around the joint then it won’t stain or stick so well. Clean up after 15 minutes as suggested.
That's what I do (sometimes, depending on how critical that piece is), and it works well.
What glue do you use to mix with sanding dust to fill defects in your workpiece?
Titebond is great for this, but you can also use PVA glue. (Not limited to those two, though). Just make your filler 'paste-like'
I use the same concept when I get construction adhesive (such as PL 400 and similar glues) on by new work clothes. If I scrap or wipe it off immediately, a residue of glue will be forced into the fibres and I'll have a glue patch forEVER. Instead I let it dry while it's only sitting on the outside surface, then just rip off the blob and it comes off entirely.
How would you remove glue squeeze from crevices? For instance if gluing two pieces together that have both been rounded over on the corners
I use wax paper, sometimes you can use the same sheet more than once.
I use the same dry-and-scrape technique when I take a poop.
What do you do when clamps are in the way? Removing them to remove glue may compromise the joint.
Yes just let it set a bit then clean up it's worked for the 50 yrs . Now if it has finish like glueing something back together I would probably wipe with damp cotton cloth I don't like paper towels . Rinse cloth in warm water & reuse starts to get stuff warm it up.
Which glue for the 15 minute wait? Your other videos mentioned different models have different drying times.
Melamine-coated particleboard is glue cleanup friendly, as well as making a decent whiteboard. Almost anything including pencil, ink, and glue comes off of melamine with household spray cleaner or gentle scraping.
Use culinary parchment paper to catch glue drips. Woks great!
I use cheap yoga mats, the glue comes off easy enough and if I’m doing a glue up and my boards aren’t flush it has a little give to flush them up.
I chuck a load of sawdust and shavings on the glue, and wipe off gently with a dry paper towel. Repeat until there's no glue left.
Mind you I'm not making fine furniture! My go-to finish is barn paint.
I use wax paper to catch the glue, it keeps it off of my clamps as well as my work surface and or the floor
Wax paper is too slippery for my taste. It slides around the bench. Silicone is very grippy.
Stumpy you need to get the Grippy brand.
Would these mats work well with contact cement?
yes
There is not and will never be a nasty old glue sponge on my glue table. As you said, it comes off easy while it's like taffy......just not as tasty. I'll have to look into the ailicon mats. I just have some paper I unroll for glue ups. They get pretty nasty.
Plastic razor blades are also good scrapers that won’t dig in
How soon do you scrape?? 15 minutes?? do you remove clamps??
A piece of Tyvek Home Wrap works well at a mat, glue doesn't stick to it.
I just keep my bench waxed with Johnson's Paste Wax and buffed every so often...nothing sticks to it. Using a damp rag forces the glue into the fibers and will affect your finish.
But what kind of glue can it be done with this way? PU? Now poly urethane glue as far as I know it is not water dissolvable, so the affirmative methods mentioned (spunge, rag) would not work anyway, even though many types of it strangely need some moisture to cure. Water based wood glue? I know that type of glue only in its white form, whilst the glue we see here is yellow, which may not mean a thing?
That silicone sheet *doubled* in price in the year after this video.
Wax paper work too in a pinch.
I've always used baby wipes from Costco.
Wax your bench and glue will not stick to it, also wax paper works great to keep glue off your bench.
Waxed paper works just as well.
I have been wood working 30 to 40 years. I have always wiped off excess glue with a "Damp" Sponge. It has never done what you suggested and gone down into the glue joint. I do however, make my joints very tight during glue up. I love your show and I have learned a lot from you. On this I respectfully disagree.
How would you know, though?
Both methods work just fine when done carefully. I use both and have never had a problem with either one .
@@squidge903 The glue joints look perfect and last forever...
@@trevorlambert4226 After you glue up any joint you end up sanding that area for the most part. Raising the grain is not a problem. And on surfaces such as table tops the glue joints are right there for everyone to look at. Again that surface will be perhaps milled and surely sanded. On Plywood I guess this could be a problem with sanding too deep. I do not use a lot of plywood and have not had any problems to date.
I bought a roll of butcher paper to lay under the work. It’s a little more wasteful though.
Some people hang it on a dowel at the end of the table for easy deployment.
What do you think about sprinkling some fine sawdust over the squeeze-out to absorb the glue before scraping it off? I've only done it a few times, and I don't know that it makes that much of a difference, but some woodworkers swear by sawdust and shavings for soaking up excess glue and for putting a polish on freshly turned pieces before taking them out of the lathe. I also like to load small mesh bags or gauze bags with wood chips and sawdust to hang in the house and give the place a nice smell.
As explained in the video, I avoid rubbing wet glue with anything. I don't want to force it deeper into the fibers or spread the film out.
What I meant was to sprinkle some sawdust to isolate it from the surrounding area and let it set for the period of time you recommended before scraping off. The sawdust only serves to absorb some squeeze-out and prevent any from touching other areas when removed. I suppose it could be a detriment if it obscures your view of the wood. Have you ever used any tape to protect the wood around the join from squeeze-out? I wonder about the adhesives on tape and how they can affect wood fibers.
Sprinkling it on would be fine, but I'm not sure it will make it any easier to scrape off later. Tape works well. If it left any adhesive film behind, it would only be on the surface and easy to remove. But painter's tape won't leave any film.
That makes sense. I'll try the tape. I was a little afraid to try tape. On small Walnut projects I wouldn't want to screw up the grain. Thanks for your thoughts. I really enjoyed the video.
A handful of plane shavings can be used to wipe away squeeze out.
So during a glue up, I can take the clamps off after 15-30 mins and remove the squeeze out? Do I put the clamps back on after I scrape the glue away? I’m still new to woodworking and I have been doing the wipe method then sanding the rest (pain in the butt). If anyone has some info they could share it would be much appreciated (I typically use TB2 for glue). Thanks in advance
Just to be safe, I prefer to leave the clamps on for at least an hour. You can scrape the glue around the clamps.
Stumpy Nubs thanks!
I use sawdust
That is exactly how I do now, after trying all the other ways.
A rag is much easier. If that small amount of dilution is enough to ruin a joint then you have bigger problems. The whole point of getting it while it's fresh is to not need to use any tools or sanding to get rid of the glue.
It's not the joint. It's the surface adjacent to the joint. Rubbing wet squeeze-out with a cloth or sponge is going to force some of the excess glue into the wood, resulting in a patchy finish.
I wipe it off right away with a damp cloth. I put newspaper under the glue project. I don't care if some of the newspaper sticks to the project, it sands off easily with an orbital sander.
The best way to handle glue squeeze-out is to not glue. Use pocket holes, brad nails, or other options where ever you can. I built an entire solid walnut L-shaped desktop without a drop of glue. Brad nail holes spackled with a matching color is far superior to having large areas that don't take stain or finish because they had glue squeeze-out that wasn't removed. Excessive sanding to remove glue can make your project look like you built it with an axe.
I'd rather just leave the squeeze out on my project than use pocket holes.
Pocket holes and nails are no substitute for glue.
I wait 15 to 30 minutes the a putty knife takes it right off.
I like to use a straw on the squeeze-out, particularly
on a inside corner.
I tried that but it tasted terrible. :)
I can't imagine you having a dull chisel...
Joe Stallings ask his finger!
Nope, an immediate damp rag is the only way to go, your method is a sure fire way to leave glue in the valleys of the grain
James,have you ever put your glue brush behind your ear backwards securely and safely embedded in your hair only to be noticed by your wife hours later?
Nope.