In this extract from his DVD Secret Mitre Dovetail, David takes us through his routine for gluing up the joint. You can buy the DVD from www.davidcharlesworth.co.uk/pr...
What times are we living in. We can watch somebody create a thing of wisdom, love and dedication on a platform that is devoted to fast, superficial and impersonal content. I am aware that not everything was good nor is everything bad, but do I enjoy watching somebody taking his time for a profession he obviously loves. Just sit back and relax.
Back in olden times during my apprenticeship one of my instructors stood by watching as I was doing a complicated glue up. I was probably poorly prepared and his scrutiny didn’t make things go any more smoothly. But I did succeed to get all the clamps on and all the joints properly closed, all true and squared. His only comment, as he walked away “What’s the glue on the outside holding together?”
I’ve read many magazines articles saying you should always have a fair amount of squeeze out when you do a glue up. As they’re sponsored by Titebond adhesives...
A fine mix of humour and biting criticism in a calm but stern voice, am I right? That's exactly how my master would have put it. It was meant for our best.
Holy moly - I have landed in the department of *scientific glueing* . Thank you, prof. Charlesworth. 'Uh.. what the heck - you've got a new subscriber'
When I was younger I worked for my father in his cabinet shop. I was midway through gluing up a large cabinet when one of my coworkers dropped a snowball down the back of my shirt. Needless to say, I spent the next five minutes finishing the job as ice water trickled down my ass.
That's right. You can not stop in the middle of glueing. Also you need to be calm, exact and reasonably fast at once. That is a hard thing to learn. Nice, that you had help from your coworkers.
Challenging every other video I’ve seen, with common sense and logic. I love it! The glue trick is superb and although I don’t own a bandsaw, I’ll definitely keep this idea for future use. Thanks for letting us see this. Appreciate it.
I find some peace within just by knowing that people of your ilk are alive in this world. Your endeavours are in wood working and music I would guess. Doesn't really matter what the endeavour, just good to know that people take things that far along.
I've seen most of your videos, but not this one, so commenting is probably wasted since you no doubt cover this elsewhere. As a cabinetmaker who also builds boats as a hobby, I am only too well aware of the enormous holding power that endgrain to sidegrain joints have in cored composite construction. There is a misconception that this is not so because such joints in cabinets, like parts of the dovetail joint, are not "full strength". This is a fallacy equivalent to thinking that a board is not "full strength" because it is more easily broken with the grain, that across the grain. Engrain to sidegrain joints break in the sidegrain, not at the glue line, or in the long grain (obviously, relative to the latter). So I do not prefer joints that omit this source of glue bond strength, particularly if they are made with PVA glue that is not easily repaired down the road. Of course, dovetail joints are massively strong, and one is as much entitled to one's guess as to how strongly they need to be glued as anyone else. They do come apart over long enough periods of time, so I prefer all the bond I can get. Diluting glue makes it weaker, and there are far stronger white and yellow glues than those made for general woodworking, for such things as lutherie. I do think lower tack glues are preferable for joints if one is using PVA. I normally just buy white glues of the cheaper variety, if Titebond 1 is not suited. Often evidence of glue sufficiency is based on destructive tests that are not all that realistic. Joint failure modes, unless Chris Farley flattens your piece, or the proverbial circus elephant, tend to be very numerous cycles to failure of low stress repeated events. These are the ones that defeat glue over time. So I do my best not to give up hardness if I don't have to, or other features. Hoadley's comment is interesting. Normally I don't like to do anything that impedes glue penetration, which is the sense to your approach of diluting glue, or using the right emulsion in the first place, which is harder said than done now that the regular white glues have been replaced with the grabby yellow ones, in most stores. Thanks for the video.
Bonjour David J’adore votre façon minutieuse et calme de travailler le bois et quel délicatesse et c’est exactement la facon donc essaye de travailler le bois dans ma tiny woodshop Merci
Vincent, thank you. Yes that is one of the first 98 smoothers that Karl made, a very radical construction. It is interesting to note that he says the 984 is his Swan Song.
I notice that the marking guages used have knife cutting edges. Are there videos demonstrating how the are formed? Is the knife edge used for both cross grain and with the grain marking?
Patrick, yes many of my gauges have the pin converted into a small cutting knives. No video I'm afraid but description in my first book. Yes the work extremely well both cross and along the grain. I keep bevel to the waste so half have flat side out ( for most joints), and half have flat side in (for thicknessing and some mortices).
I believe I stumbled on your way to do the sharpening with an old cheap marking gauge suffering from an unsuccessful first attempt. I discovered that by flattening with a file on the wrong side of the pin first, it was possible to pull the pin out with pliers, then reverse it for the final steps. I used the resulting pin for a trial run for flattening the back side of a board as per your demonstration in the Precision Planing video and it seems do be giving a similar result.
I agree. Nothing is more satisfying than this level of accuracy and precision, however, if the final product is to be anywhere near affordable joints need to go together much faster.
And...without the "slow," there exists no brilliance but for the reflected light from the icy cold of automated manufacturing...the thoughtless rote of soulless assembly, one forsaken portion upon another
I can't believe more people don't watch his videos...
The Master at work…always a joy.
What times are we living in. We can watch somebody create a thing of wisdom, love and dedication on a platform that is devoted to fast, superficial and impersonal content. I am aware that not everything was good nor is everything bad, but do I enjoy watching somebody taking his time for a profession he obviously loves. Just sit back and relax.
You sir, sound like a person out of another time. Very good video.
This guy is good!
Well!! All this craftsmanship seams magical. Better watch this with my eyes shut. Thank you.
I have been learning something about this clamping block method lately! Thank you.
Back in olden times during my apprenticeship one of my instructors stood by watching as I was doing a complicated glue up. I was probably poorly prepared and his scrutiny didn’t make things go any more smoothly. But I did succeed to get all the clamps on and all the joints properly closed, all true and squared. His only comment, as he walked away “What’s the glue on the outside holding together?”
I’ve read many magazines articles saying you should always have a fair amount of squeeze out when you do a glue up. As they’re sponsored by Titebond adhesives...
A fine mix of humour and biting criticism in a calm but stern voice, am I right? That's exactly how my master would have put it. It was meant for our best.
@@ninoding so that's where this is coming from, I've been wondering.
Holy moly - I have landed in the department of *scientific glueing* . Thank you, prof. Charlesworth. 'Uh.. what the heck - you've got a new subscriber'
When I was younger I worked for my father in his cabinet shop. I was midway through gluing up a large cabinet when one of my coworkers dropped a snowball down the back of my shirt. Needless to say, I spent the next five minutes finishing the job as ice water trickled down my ass.
That's right. You can not stop in the middle of glueing. Also you need to be calm, exact and reasonably fast at once. That is a hard thing to learn. Nice, that you had help from your coworkers.
Challenging every other video I’ve seen, with common sense and logic. I love it! The glue trick is superb and although I don’t own a bandsaw, I’ll definitely keep this idea for future use. Thanks for letting us see this. Appreciate it.
Glad you have enjoyed it.
David
Very good!!
Great info, thank you.
I find some peace within just by knowing that people of your ilk are alive in this world. Your endeavours are in wood working and music I would guess. Doesn't really matter what the endeavour, just good to know that people take things that far along.
God almighty bless you .
I have the same lamp that you have on your bandsaw! Never seen another like it
04:04 *yeah...!* That knocking sound..
04:46 But, professor: I can spot a tiny amount of.. (okay - I'll stop being nasty).
They did this to us all those years, so it probably is all right.
Using a real brush for glue! So many folks do ultra-precision, ultra-expensive everything, then slop the glue on with a piece of junk.
Between the hair. And accent I feel like I'm learning magic.
Ian McKellen as Gandalf vibes? I can get behind that.
what a cool way to clamp
I've seen most of your videos, but not this one, so commenting is probably wasted since you no doubt cover this elsewhere.
As a cabinetmaker who also builds boats as a hobby, I am only too well aware of the enormous holding power that endgrain to sidegrain joints have in cored composite construction. There is a misconception that this is not so because such joints in cabinets, like parts of the dovetail joint, are not "full strength". This is a fallacy equivalent to thinking that a board is not "full strength" because it is more easily broken with the grain, that across the grain. Engrain to sidegrain joints break in the sidegrain, not at the glue line, or in the long grain (obviously, relative to the latter). So I do not prefer joints that omit this source of glue bond strength, particularly if they are made with PVA glue that is not easily repaired down the road.
Of course, dovetail joints are massively strong, and one is as much entitled to one's guess as to how strongly they need to be glued as anyone else. They do come apart over long enough periods of time, so I prefer all the bond I can get.
Diluting glue makes it weaker, and there are far stronger white and yellow glues than those made for general woodworking, for such things as lutherie. I do think lower tack glues are preferable for joints if one is using PVA. I normally just buy white glues of the cheaper variety, if Titebond 1 is not suited. Often evidence of glue sufficiency is based on destructive tests that are not all that realistic. Joint failure modes, unless Chris Farley flattens your piece, or the proverbial circus elephant, tend to be very numerous cycles to failure of low stress repeated events. These are the ones that defeat glue over time. So I do my best not to give up hardness if I don't have to, or other features. Hoadley's comment is interesting. Normally I don't like to do anything that impedes glue penetration, which is the sense to your approach of diluting glue, or using the right emulsion in the first place, which is harder said than done now that the regular white glues have been replaced with the grabby yellow ones, in most stores.
Thanks for the video.
How do you adhere the glue clamp blocks to your work ?
Bonjour David
J’adore votre façon minutieuse et calme de travailler le bois et quel délicatesse et c’est exactement la facon donc essaye de travailler le bois dans ma tiny woodshop
Merci
Merci Michel !
David
Do I spot a Holtey plane in the background? And very good videos you make btw.
Vincent, thank you. Yes that is one of the first 98 smoothers that Karl made, a very radical construction.
It is interesting to note that he says the 984 is his Swan Song.
David Charlesworth you listen to Swans? I’m beginning to like you even more.
Seriously
I notice that the marking guages used have knife cutting edges. Are there videos demonstrating how the are formed? Is the knife edge used for both cross grain and with the grain marking?
Patrick, yes many of my gauges have the pin converted into a small cutting knives. No video I'm afraid but description in my first book. Yes the work extremely well both cross and along the grain. I keep bevel to the waste so half have flat side out ( for most joints), and half have flat side in (for thicknessing and some mortices).
I believe I stumbled on your way to do the sharpening with an old cheap marking gauge suffering from an unsuccessful first attempt. I discovered that by flattening with a file on the wrong side of the pin first, it was possible to pull the pin out with pliers, then reverse it for the final steps. I used the resulting pin for a trial run for flattening the back side of a board as per your demonstration in the Precision Planing video and it seems do be giving a similar result.
....Professor..... ? 0:54
dude i want that little hammer
Its a 395 gram Japanese hammer from Dictum in Germany. My favorite!
Brilliant workmanship BUT too too slow for the industry...
Certainly not realistic for time and motion bonuses...
I agree. Nothing is more satisfying than this level of accuracy and precision, however, if the final product is to be anywhere near affordable joints need to go together much faster.
I'm sure that was the farthest thing from his mind while he was making this.
industry can take place in one off small factories too.
And...without the "slow," there exists no brilliance but for the reflected light from the icy cold of automated manufacturing...the thoughtless rote of soulless assembly, one forsaken portion upon another