Excellent job on this. One bit of warning to anyone that pulls the hub nut. It is possible to inadvertently pull the inner constant velocity joint loose if you yank on this too much. I know this from experience and it's a major pain in the rear end to fix, gear oil etc..
Thank you for the kind words, I did have that happen which is why i took the axle nut off when I had to do this the second time. I wish i mentioned the axle boot or popping out the axle. In my case i pulled the boot off the cup that goes into the transmission. Thank you for adding that in. Cheers!
@@MobileCarMechanic wow, I’ve seen several ways to do the driver side control arm, all way better than pulling the entire engine cradle which is what prodemand calls for
That is really interesting, I didn't lower the cradle, nor did I touch the steering rack. A previous commenter stated book time for this is somewhere near 12 hours. Took me an hour each side the way I did the job. Not sure if earlier models were designed different or trims.
@@MobileCarMechanic I am finally doing the driver side today, watching planning. I already have it jacked up with the DF wheel off, hoping it takes an hour
Normally the stud doesn’t come out but in this case it came loose with the nut. You can still remove with the stud in place. Just make sure to Jack up the engine as far up as you can
@@MobileCarMechanic I'm trying to replace all the 5 motor mounts on my 2013 Venza V6 fwd. How do I do this? I don't want to lift the engine up too high, because that might rip the CV axle out.
@@MobileCarMechanic My top nut came off the left engine mount, and the stud remained in the mount. I cannot get my engine up far enough. What do you think of the idea that I clean-thread semi-permanent loctite bond the nut to the stud? Then I try again and hopefully the studs winds out like in your video? Thanks.
If anyone is wondering, my idea worked. After red-loctiting the nut on, the stud came out of the top of the engine mount, so the mount lifted out quite easily.
For anyone wondering, I did the right side, and removed the stud using two nuts locked together. A simpler solution than waiting for red loctite to set.
What symptoms did you notice that this was going bad? And thanks for the video, the rubber on both of my controls arms is rotting away. Not looking forward to this job.
Really had no issues even though the rubber was cracking. We have safety inspections and they told the owner that they should replace it. If it’s bad enough you will feel looseness in the suspension and loud clunks if it is really bad.
@@MobileCarMechanic thank you for the info! And responding. Good to see this is possible in a driveway with basic tools. Not sure I want to know how much a local shop would charge for this.
I have looked up three different labor guides and they all say around 11 hours! My mechanic says that's nuts. I'm not in the business to screw my customers over, I'd like them to keep coming back, at the same time making some profit. Could you please tell me how long it took you to complete this job? Thanks
lol I happened to get lucky, i can’t remember exactly how I got it out last time as this was the 2nd time replacing. Essentially you have to jack up the motor as high as it can go and if there are any obstacles unbolt them. But I think I was able to jack up the motor relatively high enough to wiggle it out.
@@MobileCarMechanic well, I unbolted the center drone mount and was able to get it high enough. But I unbolted the strut without support and the axle popped out at the trans. I wonder if I can just force the boot back on. I’m planing to redo the boot clamp.
You did an awesome job young man
Thank you.
Great how to video on this one
Glad it helped
Great job man I'll do mine soon
Thank you.
Excellent job on this. One bit of warning to anyone that pulls the hub nut. It is possible to inadvertently pull the inner constant velocity joint loose if you yank on this too much. I know this from experience and it's a major pain in the rear end to fix, gear oil etc..
Thank you for the kind words, I did have that happen which is why i took the axle nut off when I had to do this the second time. I wish i mentioned the axle boot or popping out the axle. In my case i pulled the boot off the cup that goes into the transmission. Thank you for adding that in. Cheers!
Did you remove the sway bar bushing bolts and steering rack hold down bolts and nuts? I had to do that for the passenger side
I didn’t touch the sway bar components at all.
@@MobileCarMechanic wow, I’ve seen several ways to do the driver side control arm, all way better than pulling the entire engine cradle which is what prodemand calls for
That is really interesting, I didn't lower the cradle, nor did I touch the steering rack. A previous commenter stated book time for this is somewhere near 12 hours. Took me an hour each side the way I did the job. Not sure if earlier models were designed different or trims.
@@MobileCarMechanic I am finally doing the driver side today, watching planning. I already have it jacked up with the DF wheel off, hoping it takes an hour
@@MobileCarMechanic what should I remove if that engine mount stud doesn't come out
Great Video.
Thanks!
did you loose both side engine mount before you jack up engine?
Yes, you need to in order for the mount to separate
Do you have to do wheel alignment?
Whenever you replace suspension components off I’d recommend an alignment!
Did this job last week on both sides in a 2002 same thing just a little less space but exactly the same
Glad the video helped. Definitely not my favorite vehicle to replace control arms on. Cheers!
Be safe! Make sure your vehicle is properly supported by jack stand.
Will do thank you for the support.
Oh good job men
Glad the video helped. Cheers!
Is it possible to last 200 000 kilometres until swap lower arm
It may or may not. All depends on driving conditions.
Mine last 200,000 miles = 320,000 km and still good.
6:54. How did you get the stud out? You cut into the video, so we couldn't see how you got the stud out. That's the part that we need to see.
Normally the stud doesn’t come out but in this case it came loose with the nut. You can still remove with the stud in place. Just make sure to Jack up the engine as far up as you can
@@MobileCarMechanic I'm trying to replace all the 5 motor mounts on my 2013 Venza V6 fwd. How do I do this? I don't want to lift the engine up too high, because that might rip the CV axle out.
@@MobileCarMechanic My top nut came off the left engine mount, and the stud remained in the mount. I cannot get my engine up far enough. What do you think of the idea that I clean-thread semi-permanent loctite bond the nut to the stud? Then I try again and hopefully the studs winds out like in your video? Thanks.
If anyone is wondering, my idea worked. After red-loctiting the nut on, the stud came out of the top of the engine mount, so the mount lifted out quite easily.
For anyone wondering, I did the right side, and removed the stud using two nuts locked together. A simpler solution than waiting for red loctite to set.
Did you also loosen or take off the motor bracket on top before you jack up the engine?
I didn’t because the stud came out. I believe when I did it the first time I did remove it before I made this video.
You have to remove the top mount especially if you're doing this on the passenger side. The driver side is a little more forgiven.
Nobody gonna talk about how loose his lug nuts were?? Lmao
Couldnt tell you why haha, Not my car!
Is your highlander AWD ? other videos have you unbolt the steering rack !
It’s a 4WD Highlander
@@MobileCarMechanic thank you
What symptoms did you notice that this was going bad? And thanks for the video, the rubber on both of my controls arms is rotting away. Not looking forward to this job.
Really had no issues even though the rubber was cracking. We have safety inspections and they told the owner that they should replace it. If it’s bad enough you will feel looseness in the suspension and loud clunks if it is really bad.
@@MobileCarMechanic thank you for the info! And responding. Good to see this is possible in a driveway with basic tools. Not sure I want to know how much a local shop would charge for this.
@@l3fingers46$2726 if your curious. That’s why I’m here. Lol
Where’d you buy part?
www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7528572&cc=1502621&pt=10401&jsn=884&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq%2BEvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbh%2BYrdIIoJ2QRIQ0dzB9u%2F%2B%2FmhVsDHsuNVrwTHdL74DXQ9omHwKww9HapUqDqeY1jLgXSG2YAJLxDZLXGSFZq0gwXl9uUta977mMtqxJB2T2%2FutZ4ojSlDpYCmg%2FjLSWIuOoE17HXJluOYBQYgESon%2FUMnSvZxA4qflUmHczxxtbpj5k6jsV0cIRKJPfktBJ9N6tSZALjnZ1hnft%2FQxXZR1Z0rTYJjEK5%2BLbVZan6lg1HpmGoacB5M4ISstkQ5e8IJRmhEkCSnQl
If the ball joint has never been replaced you want to order that as well. RockAuto's a great source for all these parts as I can tell from your link!
I have looked up three different labor guides and they all say around 11 hours! My mechanic says that's nuts. I'm not in the business to screw my customers over, I'd like them to keep coming back, at the same time making some profit. Could you please tell me how long it took you to complete this job? Thanks
It took me an hour per side. The engine mount is what makes things difficult
@@MobileCarMechanic Thanks. That's what my mech. thought, worst case scenario 2 hrs per side.
What a cheater! I could not get the stud out of the motor mount. Now what?
lol I happened to get lucky, i can’t remember exactly how I got it out last time as this was the 2nd time replacing. Essentially you have to jack up the motor as high as it can go and if there are any obstacles unbolt them. But I think I was able to jack up the motor relatively high enough to wiggle it out.
@@MobileCarMechanic well, I unbolted the center drone mount and was able to get it high enough.
But I unbolted the strut without support and the axle popped out at the trans.
I wonder if I can just force the boot back on.
I’m planing to redo the boot clamp.
Replace the clamp, its not going to slide on unfortunately.
@@MobileCarMechanic thank you! This is just a one off experience for me, I hope.