Thanks for video. On passenger side is easier to remove the top dog bone mount and jack up the engine by using a piece of wood to jack up right at the CV shaft mount. Then for driver side loosen the front center mount nut and jack up with piece of wood against transmission.
You are a sincere person in a word you said and your work indicates that you you are a professional person. I went to Lexus on the same problem asking for 8 hours of work hourly price of 170 dollars and the cost of working plus parts more than 2000 dollars
Seriously, the best ever clear UA-cam repair video. At first I thought that my eyesight is getting better. Then I wiped clean my specs and my vision turned it clear and clean. Tutorial straightforward
Haven't tried to tackle control arms yet-was scared off by the last video I watched on this. But this video was CLEAR. Most videos have that "and then....a miracle happens" moment that you don't discover until you have ripped the car half apart and get stuck. So thanks. My RX has 315,000 miles on it. Started with the CV axles (which have a lot of those miracle happens moments) and the issues just grow from there. Hopefully, no surprises like the CV axles and tie rods.
For AWD models, on the passenger side, you need remove the rear engine mount bolt. To do this, get your engine supported with no up load, and remove the bolt. You will need to then just remove the front right mount now. The video makes a good representation of what to do, although on the Highlander, you will not need to remove the engine bracket. You will need to loosen the dog one bracket up top under the hood and also the driver side front mount.
Thanks for the educational video. You made it look easy peasy. For the RX330, engine mount does not come off like that and makes the project double the trouble. Wish me luck.
Nice work, and thanks for the great video. Im about to attempt this job on my 2001 Lexus RX300. Once youre done installing the new control arm and balljoint, would you recommend torqueing it to spec AFTER the wheels are back on and on the ground? Or would you recommend torquing all the fasteners BEFORE lower the car back on its wheels? Thank you in advance for your help.
You gained a subscriber! I like the way you work and your explanations all make sense. My 2009 Lexus 350 has a bad bushing on the control arm and it has a clunking noise whenever it goes over a bump. I’m pretty sure it’s the control arm because I saw a tear in the bushing and no problems with anything else.
Excellent Video. Lighting and attention to detail was great. My 2000 Lexus RX300 has 230,000 miles on it and my steering issues were the only reason that I thought it was time to put her out in the bone yard. Now I believe I can get another 100,000 mi plus out of her. Thanks Again!
Awesome video, super clear. Keep up the good work on sharing. Don't know how some negative fools who haven't contributed anything are fast to give a thumbs down. Monday morning QB loosers. Very sad.
For real, I'm doing both sides amd every video on UA-cam shows the passenger side. How do you get around the engine mount being the entire side of the engine??
If you asking about the drivers side, take all the bolts out of the mount and just work around it. The mount wont come out, but you can move it around just enough to get the control arm out .
@@Donnythelatemodeltech work around it? How far can you Jack the engine up without causing damage?? Quick respond is very much appreciate as unfortunately I started on the driver side and sitting here not knowing what to do
Glad I found your video. I am about to do our LCAs on our Sienna. I see that other videos like yours is always the passenger side. Is the driver's side easier since there isn't a motor mount to deal with?
There is a motor mount on the driver's side. The only reason I'm recording the passenger side is because of space in that garage ... Dr side is up against a wall.
Since you took that motor mount bracket off, did you really need to raise the engine? I have a 2010 Lexus rx350. Some videos are saying to remove all motor mounts and raise the engine
Great video, just what I needed. This also looks just like my 04 highlander Did you have to loosen the front and rear mounts too or just the side mounts and dog bone?
First of all great video....secondly I have a 2009 RX 350. Is the same procedure done for rx350. It was born in Japan. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I look forward to watching more of your video/work.
Donny, did you have to loosen the top motor mount? I'm about to tackle this job soon, I did the CV axel according to your video and it went flawless. BTW, my dealer quoted me $1600 labor. Parts were 230/each arm.
Do you recall which size sockets you needed? My husband's coworker is going to lend us his impact wrench and impact sockets, but he needs to know what sizes we need.
Great video very clear camera angles. Is this a common replacement I have a sienna with less than 90000 miles and the dealer told me that I need a replacement
Did you loosen both sides of the engine mount before raising the engine? Did you also remove the engine support on the engine bay up top? The procedure seems to be the same with the Camry.
Grab the Beck/Arnley ones, I’m doing my Camry soon too as I’m at 175k. The B/A ones use TRC bushings which is an OEM supplier. It’s probably the same part just rebranded. Moog is more of a hit or miss
@@Donnythelatemodeltech boo-urns. That's what I feared. I live in Nova Scotia where everything rusts like crazy and taking off every bolt is a fight to the death. Lol
I am having such a hard time with 05’ RX330, can’t seem to get the engine high enough to get the mount out. Just need 1/2 more but the whole car goes up with the engine. What am I missing?
Great, Similar to Tarago 00-06,(Aussie 8seat minibus) same engine mount in way problem. I was thinking, loosen front bolt (split ring spanner) remove rest & pivot arm around & use bolt puller to replace bush, would that work instead of lifting motor & removing engine mount? maybe front bolt TOO Tight?
@@antwontaylor9765 could be that, also I had that very problem and replacing the Tie Rods fixed that for me....just jiggle the tie rods and if they move with your hand only then its time to replace them, far less expensive and easier to work on than what he's doing in this video.
Is the process identical on the driver side? Seems straightforward enough, but wasn't sure if there are any gotchas i should be aware of for the driver's side.
Dave Fung pretty much. Loosening the front motor mount is a must. The problem I had was the ball joints would not separate. Hammer, Heat, ball joint Tool wouldn’t do anything.
@@Dexion845 Were you able to get the engine up high enough to get the motor mount out? I wasn't and hence why I loosened the nut on the front motor mount so I could get another couple inches of room.
Joey Hayles haven’t done it yet. Mine is a 2009 Camry 2.4L but the suspension looks identical with Siennas. I don’t think you can raise the motor too far without taking off that top engine mount, it’s definitely a must.
From where to order lower control arms LHS & RHS, shock upper mounting, front link Road. My dealership couldn't able to manage in dubai. Have to order online. Pls suggest
Great video, A question.. Is there a reason why the cv axle was installed first? and Do I need to have both front tires off the ground... even though I only need to replace 1 side with cv axle and lower control arm? thanks
The only reason I did the axle first from what I can remember was because I wanted to split it into two videos, . You probably want to have both wheels off the ground because of the swaybar , links.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Well , I had to cut off the cv axle at the carrier bearing and about an inch or 2 away from it closer to the tranny , then had to remove the bolts holding the carrier bearing block and then press the bearing out. What a PITA. now to go for the lower control arm. Thanks for your video. when you did your control arms, did you loosen the dog bone mount and the other 2 mounts ?
When you jack the motor up where do you contact the motor at, i.e. jacking point? I will be using a jack with a piece of wood or a phone book. I assume the oil pan, but IDK for sure. Also, do I need to loosen all motor mounts up to jack the motor up? I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon. Thanks.
Great Video thank you. I had MOOG lower control Arm and installed it on driver side along with the ball joint that come with it on camry 2007 LE 4 cylinders. The installation was OK but the Alignment is not good. The shop can not get it better than 0.4 degrees where is should be 0.1 degrees maximum. It is not that bad but I thought the control arm is not very close to the original one. What is your thoughts? Someone has told me to loosen th 3 bolts that connect the arm to the ball joint and tie them again to give some clearance for the camber angle to be adjusted. Not sure if this is a good idea. Thanks
Most good shops will elongate the holes on bottom of the strut that bolt up to the knuckle making any camber adjustments possible. This does require the tech to pretty much do the alignment twice and take three times as long. I wouldn't adjust anything your self, your alignment will be worse. You need to find a good shop.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech honestly, I skipped through most the video to find how to remove that motor mount. It’s slightly different than the Camry. I did hear you talk about how the dealership charges 8 hours though. I love Toyota/Lexus but it’s amazing how they can get away with upcharging like that for something they know is completely unnecessary. After you get the vehicle off the ground it’s like a 20 minute job not including an alignment but I’ve so far been good enough that when I take it to the alignment shop for an inspection they tell me it doesn’t need to be aligned.
Are the control arm (and bushings) and the axle assembly repairs typically done together? My wife just took her 2011 Sienna in for servicing and they said she needed brakes/rotors and a new axle assembly (torn cv boot leaking oil). We fixed both ($1000) but my wife said the van still had the same problem when driving it (vibrating when driving above 70mph and when braking). She took it to the dealer (doesnt trust the mechanic now) and they said that she needs both from lower control arm bushings replaced. Shouldnt the mechanic have seen this problem when the changed the brakes and put in the new axle assembly? I feel like we are getting played.
I recommend you take it to a tire store next, get the wheels on a balancer and see if they are bent or you might have a bad tire. Dealerships really dont focus on tires and wheels, and most vibration issues at highway speeds are wheel and tire problems. I dont think the dealer is playing you, the tech is mostly just recommending repairs that he could see at the time. All people get bent out of shape with the dealers because of the money it takes to do repairs, yes its a lot but it's a business. That tech doing the work isn't getting 1000$ dollars, If he was luck he got a 100 of that . The service writer gets a commission, and the shop get its share , and then cost for parts, so it adds up quickly. The should of caught the control arms bushing, but he could be a young guy, he could be doing three things at the same time, his boss could be a shit head, he could of just missed it. Brakes and bad axles are sources of vibration, but its usually a tire. A good indication the control arms are bad are if at low speed turning you hear clunky noises , if you hear noise the alignment will be incorrect and you will have tire that wear funny. Hope that helps, if you Direct message me on Instagram I can help you out with anymore questions ,
Compliance bushing (big rubbery part with metal sleeve going throught it) worn, causing play. Due to the front end weight of the car shifting when you turn steering wheel, and when you brake, you'll hear like a squish noise. Bushings are to isolate vibrations from the road bumps etc from driver. When they are bad, you can feel them
That approach works for the passenger side (RH), it does NOT work on the drivers side (LH). You need to remove the top bolt from the front motor mount (just behind the fan). This will allow you to jack up the transmission far enough to remove the motor mount on the drivers side.
@@hohiro2069 Any other gotchas that you encountered other than what you mentioned? Otherwise the same identical process? Looking to do this task because I dont want to pay $1400!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thanks!! I'm reading the comments now and people are talking about the driver's side being a bit more complicated. Don't suppose there is an updated video for the driver's side? Also, the reason I'm searching for videos on this is because last week my mechanic said 'L&R FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SEPARATING' and when doing my rotors on the weekend I think I see what he means but I don't feel any vibrations or noise while driving/turning. So I wonder how urgent this repair would be and if this can wait until there's a symptom? What's the worse case if this completely separates while driving, would the car still be driveable or would I be stranded?
Thanks for video. On passenger side is easier to remove the top dog bone mount and jack up the engine by using a piece of wood to jack up right at the CV shaft mount. Then for driver side loosen the front center mount nut and jack up with piece of wood against transmission.
Thank you!! People like you are a blessing for the rest of us
You are a sincere person in a word you said and your work indicates that you you are a professional person. I went to Lexus on the same problem asking for 8 hours of work hourly price of 170 dollars and the cost of working plus parts more than 2000 dollars
@@futureeyes2000 on the news
Seriously, the best ever clear UA-cam repair video. At first I thought that my eyesight is getting better. Then I wiped clean my specs and my vision turned it clear and clean. Tutorial straightforward
That’s exactly what they quoted me today and I was like, nah……let me think about it! Thank you for doing a step-by-step for all of us DIYers! 😎💯
You got a new sub. Your method is more efficient than the others I watched. I will be doing the same on my RX330 including the 4 struts.
Haven't tried to tackle control arms yet-was scared off by the last video I watched on this. But this video was CLEAR. Most videos have that "and then....a miracle happens" moment that you don't discover until you have ripped the car half apart and get stuck. So thanks. My RX has 315,000 miles on it. Started with the CV axles (which have a lot of those miracle happens moments) and the issues just grow from there. Hopefully, no surprises like the CV axles and tie rods.
I have a cv axle video on this too, no miracle in that one , just a stuck axle.. thanks for the great comment!
For AWD models, on the passenger side, you need remove the rear engine mount bolt. To do this, get your engine supported with no up load, and remove the bolt. You will need to then just remove the front right mount now. The video makes a good representation of what to do, although on the Highlander, you will not need to remove the engine bracket.
You will need to loosen the dog one bracket up top under the hood and also the driver side front mount.
how to lift the engine of a 2004 Lexus Rx 300 4 wheel drive? Thank you so much
My friend, you are awesome.... no fluff straight pro style step by step... I'm gonna try it on my RX300. Thanks a bunch.. 👏
Thanks for making this video. You did an excellent job. Doing this job at home will save everyone some significant coin.
This is the best video on how to do this. Thank you!
Thanks brother! Best video I’ve seen on this repair! Pro!
Thank you!! Great work on the camera!
Most welcome
Thanks for the educational video. You made it look easy peasy. For the RX330, engine mount does not come off like that and makes the project double the trouble. Wish me luck.
Being handy is such an asset! Thanks for your detailed video!
Nice set-up with the dual cameras and lights.
Nice work, and thanks for the great video. Im about to attempt this job on my 2001 Lexus RX300. Once youre done installing the new control arm and balljoint, would you recommend torqueing it to spec AFTER the wheels are back on and on the ground? Or would you recommend torquing all the fasteners BEFORE lower the car back on its wheels? Thank you in advance for your help.
How did your job go for you? I’m considering buying a 2002 RX 300 awd that will need this done.
I’ve struggled just getting the bushing off the control arm free from the frame, you made it look easy installing the new one and sliding the bolt up.
You are awesome, thank you so much, I’ll replace the control arm next week, your knowledge will save us lots of money. Thanks.
Most welcome
You gained a subscriber! I like the way you work and your explanations all make sense. My 2009 Lexus 350 has a bad bushing on the control arm and it has a clunking noise whenever it goes over a bump. I’m pretty sure it’s the control arm because I saw a tear in the bushing and no problems with anything else.
Excellent Video. Lighting and attention to detail was great. My 2000 Lexus RX300 has 230,000 miles on it and my steering issues were the only reason that I thought it was time to put her out in the bone yard. Now I believe I can get another 100,000 mi plus out of her. Thanks Again!
Thanks for the video. Straight forward. Did you find it necessary to loosen or remove the top engine mount as well?
Awesome video, super clear. Keep up the good work on sharing. Don't know how some negative fools who haven't contributed anything are fast to give a thumbs down. Monday morning QB loosers. Very sad.
It's all good, any input is good input when it comes to the youtube game. Thanks again for the great comment.
Clear explanation, great video work, good procedure. Thank you so much.
Thank you.
Best video and easiest way to explain this repair thanks!!
to lift the engine you have to place the jack under the oil pan? there is no bolt to unscrew before working on the jack? thank you
Thanks for a great video. It would be good to do the drivers side since that poses some different challenges.
Sounds like you've been there,lol. I made the mistake and didn't record it.
TheLateModelTech2.0 yes sir!
For real, I'm doing both sides amd every video on UA-cam shows the passenger side. How do you get around the engine mount being the entire side of the engine??
If you asking about the drivers side, take all the bolts out of the mount and just work around it. The mount wont come out, but you can move it around just enough to get the control arm out .
@@Donnythelatemodeltech work around it? How far can you Jack the engine up without causing damage?? Quick respond is very much appreciate as unfortunately I started on the driver side and sitting here not knowing what to do
Thanks for the video. Can you say what impact you used ?
Glad I found your video. I am about to do our LCAs on our Sienna. I see that other videos like yours is always the passenger side. Is the driver's side easier since there isn't a motor mount to deal with?
There is a motor mount on the driver's side. The only reason I'm recording the passenger side is because of space in that garage ... Dr side is up against a wall.
Good work mate. Is the other side same?
Hi were you having aggressive side to side shaking on initial acceleration?
Since you took that motor mount bracket off, did you really need to raise the engine? I have a 2010 Lexus rx350. Some videos are saying to remove all motor mounts and raise the engine
Great video, just what I needed. This also looks just like my 04 highlander
Did you have to loosen the front and rear mounts too or just the side mounts and dog bone?
I just loosened the sides, I'm sure if you loosen one more it probably would make things alittle easier.
First of all great video....secondly I have a 2009 RX 350. Is the same procedure done for rx350. It was born in Japan. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I look forward to watching more of your video/work.
The rx is almost exactly the same. 👍
Donny, did you have to loosen the top motor mount? I'm about to tackle this job soon, I did the CV axel according to your video and it went flawless. BTW, my dealer quoted me $1600 labor. Parts were 230/each arm.
Thanks Donny you make me know how to replace Lower Control Arm is DIY.
Did you shoot any video when replacing this lower arm on driver side?
Do you recall which size sockets you needed? My husband's coworker is going to lend us his impact wrench and impact sockets, but he needs to know what sizes we need.
You made it look easy. It was a pain in the A** for me. Hard such a hard time putting the passenger side on.
Great video, thanks!
Great video very clear camera angles. Is this a common replacement I have a sienna with less than 90000 miles and the dealer told me that I need a replacement
Should save you a pocket full of money if you do it you self
Did you loosen both sides of the engine mount before raising the engine? Did you also remove the engine support on the engine bay up top? The procedure seems to be the same with the Camry.
What time frame did it take to do one or both sides? Did you have to disconnect or loosen the sway bar also?
Awesome video. Going to save me over $650 in labor charges. Question, do you use a universal joint adapter on your 1/2" impact extension?
I have both the adapter and a set of swivel sockets, the sockets work better in tight areas.
the best video so far. thanks.
One place quoted me $2200, other shop $1600 with OEM Toyo parts with alignment, Thanks I'll do it myself
Saving lots of money! Much welcome.
Grab the Beck/Arnley ones, I’m doing my Camry soon too as I’m at 175k. The B/A ones use TRC bushings which is an OEM supplier.
It’s probably the same part just rebranded. Moog is more of a hit or miss
Very interesting! Very clear and well done sir.
If you do it yourself do you need to get an alignment done after?
Very helpful video. Thanks
Thanks for the video! Very helpful!
Do pretty much all Toyota Siennas have to have the motor mount removed to get at the one bolt to remove the control arm? We have a 2005 Sienna.
Yes.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech boo-urns. That's what I feared. I live in Nova Scotia where everything rusts like crazy and taking off every bolt is a fight to the death. Lol
Is there another place to jack the motor up from? Or do you have to jack it up from the oil pan only? Is that oil pan made out of solid steel?
Fast! Time from Start to finish in real time?
I am having such a hard time with 05’ RX330, can’t seem to get the engine high enough to get the mount out. Just need 1/2 more but the whole car goes up with the engine. What am I missing?
Thank you for the video
Do RX and AWD share drive components? If not, how would you compare the RX and Sienna AWD front end components?
Great, Similar to Tarago 00-06,(Aussie 8seat minibus) same engine mount in way problem.
I was thinking, loosen front bolt (split ring spanner) remove rest & pivot arm around & use bolt puller to replace bush, would that work instead of lifting motor & removing engine mount? maybe front bolt TOO Tight?
Is this the main cause of The clunking sound? Mainly when we hit bumps
@@antwontaylor9765 could be that, also I had that very problem and replacing the Tie Rods fixed that for me....just jiggle the tie rods and if they move with your hand only then its time to replace them, far less expensive and easier to work on than what he's doing in this video.
seems like it would be a good idea to replace the motor mount since its already out of the car?
Nah, the side ones don't take much torque and rarely wear out. And they're 150-200 bucks a pop, too. Replace them when they go.
Was there by any chance a bolt right behind the motor mount? Working on a 2004 and it’s a pain lol
Is the process identical on the driver side? Seems straightforward enough, but wasn't sure if there are any gotchas i should be aware of for the driver's side.
Dave Fung pretty much. Loosening the front motor mount is a must. The problem I had was the ball joints would not separate. Hammer, Heat, ball joint Tool wouldn’t do anything.
On the drivers side you need to raise the engine only, no need to disconnect a bracket to remove the motor mount
@@Dexion845 Were you able to get the engine up high enough to get the motor mount out? I wasn't and hence why I loosened the nut on the front motor mount so I could get another couple inches of room.
Joey Hayles haven’t done it yet. Mine is a 2009 Camry 2.4L but the suspension looks identical with Siennas.
I don’t think you can raise the motor too far without taking off that top engine mount, it’s definitely a must.
What year Toyota Sienna did you do this on. I have a 2006.
I have a camry and it's the same thing. could you please tell me where you put the floor jack. I just don't want to do it in the wrong place.
Nice! Best video
From where to order lower control arms LHS & RHS, shock upper mounting, front link Road.
My dealership couldn't able to manage in dubai. Have to order online. Pls suggest
man o man i wish mine was this easy.. Both of the ball joint nut sliped. Had to take the axle out. But got it done.
Is the process the same on the AWD Toyota Sienna. I have a 2011
Great video, A question.. Is there a reason why the cv axle was installed first? and Do I need to have both front tires off the ground... even though I only need to replace 1 side with cv axle and lower control arm? thanks
The only reason I did the axle first from what I can remember was because I wanted to split it into two videos, . You probably want to have both wheels off the ground because of the swaybar , links.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech thanks I have to do this job when the control arm comes.
thanks again
Let me know how it goes
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Will do, I am doing the cv axles as well
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Well , I had to cut off the cv axle at the carrier bearing and about an inch or 2 away from it closer to the tranny , then had to remove the bolts holding the carrier bearing block and then press the bearing out. What a PITA. now to go for the lower control arm. Thanks for your video. when you did your control arms, did you loosen the dog bone mount and the other 2 mounts ?
When you jack the motor up where do you contact the motor at, i.e. jacking point? I will be using a jack with a piece of wood or a phone book. I assume the oil pan, but IDK for sure. Also, do I need to loosen all motor mounts up to jack the motor up? I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon. Thanks.
Block of wood and the oil pan. Loosen as many mounts as possible.
درود بر شما متشکرم اقا
🤔
Great work! Have you been happy with the non OEM part lasting? I am wondering whether to get OEM versus after market on Highlander. Thanks
My buddy hasnt
complained about them.
How many motor mounts are there ? 2 or more? Trying to lift engine.
Do you need to torque on all of them?
Did you reused ball joint for old arm control
What is the jointed extender bar you are using between your drill and the socket? Or is the joint on the socket? Thanks.
Samuuel Lock looks like a typical U-joint buy em at harbor freight for $8 for a 2-pack (1/2 and 3/8)
Great video sir! Can you share the reason for the replacements on both sides?
Bushings worn, noises .
Did you have to remove upper motor mount too?
Is a wheel alignment required after you change the lower control arm?
Of course.
Rock on man . . .great video! *Subbed*
Thank you! Can you let me know where the other motor mount is that is on the other side?
Great tutorial
Thanks Shawn 👍
very good.
Is it the same on the divers side.? I have never seen a tutorial on the drivers side. Seems like the passenger side is the monster..
Pretty much, the only difference is it takes alittle more work to get the motor mount out. You can work around it.
Great Video thank you. I had MOOG lower control Arm and installed it on driver side along with the ball joint that come with it on camry 2007 LE 4 cylinders. The installation was OK but the Alignment is not good. The shop can not get it better than 0.4 degrees where is should be 0.1 degrees maximum. It is not that bad but I thought the control arm is not very close to the original one. What is your thoughts? Someone has told me to loosen th 3 bolts that connect the arm to the ball joint and tie them again to give some clearance for the camber angle to be adjusted. Not sure if this is a good idea.
Thanks
Most good shops will elongate the holes on bottom of the strut that bolt up to the knuckle making any camber adjustments possible. This does require the tech to pretty much do the alignment twice and take three times as long. I wouldn't adjust anything your self, your alignment will be worse. You need to find a good shop.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thank you
Dm me on Instagram and I can send you some pictures for reference /
Great video
Clunking sound here. Either control arm or shocks?
I have an RX350 and I believe this video will help me change the control arms. The mechanic wants $4000.00 to do it. Thats not happening...
Bro.. how much torque does your cordless impact has? I’ve done this and those bolts are tight
Not sure
If I remember correctly, the dealership manual actually has you R&R the engine and trans to replace the LCA.
Yeah, pretty sure I mention that in this video .
@@Donnythelatemodeltech honestly, I skipped through most the video to find how to remove that motor mount. It’s slightly different than the Camry. I did hear you talk about how the dealership charges 8 hours though. I love Toyota/Lexus but it’s amazing how they can get away with upcharging like that for something they know is completely unnecessary. After you get the vehicle off the ground it’s like a 20 minute job not including an alignment but I’ve so far been good enough that when I take it to the alignment shop for an inspection they tell me it doesn’t need to be aligned.
At 4:18 you mentioned you're going to loosen the other mount. Which one? Was it the driver side or the front mount(i.e. the transmission mount).
I just loosen the drivers side
Are the control arm (and bushings) and the axle assembly repairs typically done together? My wife just took her 2011 Sienna in for servicing and they said she needed brakes/rotors and a new axle assembly (torn cv boot leaking oil). We fixed both ($1000) but my wife said the van still had the same problem when driving it (vibrating when driving above 70mph and when braking). She took it to the dealer (doesnt trust the mechanic now) and they said that she needs both from lower control arm bushings replaced. Shouldnt the mechanic have seen this problem when the changed the brakes and put in the new axle assembly? I feel like we are getting played.
I recommend you take it to a tire store next, get the wheels on a balancer and see if they are bent or you might have a bad tire. Dealerships really dont focus on tires and wheels, and most vibration issues at highway speeds are wheel and tire problems. I dont think the dealer is playing you, the tech is mostly just recommending repairs that he could see at the time. All people get bent out of shape with the dealers because of the money it takes to do repairs, yes its a lot but it's a business. That tech doing the work isn't getting 1000$ dollars, If he was luck he got a 100 of that . The service writer gets a commission, and the shop get its share , and then cost for parts, so it adds up quickly. The should of caught the control arms bushing, but he could be a young guy, he could be doing three things at the same time, his boss could be a shit head, he could of just missed it. Brakes and bad axles are sources of vibration, but its usually a tire. A good indication the control arms are bad are if at low speed turning you hear clunky noises , if you hear noise the alignment will be incorrect and you will have tire that wear funny. Hope that helps, if you Direct message me on Instagram I can help you out with anymore questions ,
Exelent video.
What was the reason you had to replace your lower control arm??
Compliance bushing (big rubbery part with metal sleeve going throught it) worn, causing play. Due to the front end weight of the car shifting when you turn steering wheel, and when you brake, you'll hear like a squish noise. Bushings are to isolate vibrations from the road bumps etc from driver. When they are bad, you can feel them
How about drivers side?
I assume an alignment would be required after this or no?
Definitely required
Hi, so to removed the engine mount, you have to removed both engine mount bolts and jack up the engine through oil pan?
Thanks
Just remove the bolts from the one mount your replacing.
That approach works for the passenger side (RH), it does NOT work on the drivers side (LH). You need to remove the top bolt from the front motor mount (just behind the fan). This will allow you to jack up the transmission far enough to remove the motor mount on the drivers side.
@@hohiro2069 Any other gotchas that you encountered other than what you mentioned? Otherwise the same identical process? Looking to do this task because I dont want to pay $1400!
I see RX300 and RX330 mentioned here but I have an 07 RX350 -- would that be the same as well would you know?
It's pretty much the same. 👍
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Thanks!! I'm reading the comments now and people are talking about the driver's side being a bit more complicated. Don't suppose there is an updated video for the driver's side? Also, the reason I'm searching for videos on this is because last week my mechanic said 'L&R FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SEPARATING' and when doing my rotors on the weekend I think I see what he means but I don't feel any vibrations or noise while driving/turning. So I wonder how urgent this repair would be and if this can wait until there's a symptom? What's the worse case if this completely separates while driving, would the car still be driveable or would I be stranded?
thanks!
What's the part number for the cradle arm i have a rx330
good job!!!!!!!!!!!
Good luck!
any reason not to replace that motor mount since ur in there already?
Its, not my van. That's my excuse.
If it ain't broke~etc
They're expensive and the side ones don't break very often
Torque specs? Thanks!
Forgot