I always hired service writers that were mechanics. Nothing worse than a service writer overcharging customers on labor and a parts managers trying to up their bonuses at the expense of my customers. I would get a Monday morning ass chewing from the dealer principal because I wouldn’t lie,cheat or steal. Glad to see a business owner in the automotive field that is honest and trustworthy. Thanks for all the great videos.
That happens in every industry. Most 97% of people won't do the right thing in most cases. They just lay over and do what is told so they don't have to deal with the problems.
When sanding or grinding aluminum, one must be very careful with the dust that is created (aluminum oxide) it’s damaging to our lungs. I use a 3M double filtered mask and put a large fan behind me to keep the dust away from the face. Excellent post and excellent save on the rear glass. Thank you!
amazing job on the rear wiper. the last minute reflexion is what makes you the GOAT; no rip off, not in parts, not in labor, not in charging the customer. The mechanic that meets Toyota's standards.
When grinding or welding steel near glass, always mask off the glass. The sparks from grinding will stick to the glass and there is no way to remove them. A single edge razor will take off the metal, but the glass will have very small creators that cant be removed or polished out. You may also want to try a Makita XSB01Z 18V LXT 3/8" Detail Belt Sander. This sander is a lot easier to control than a die grinder, especially around tight arias such as this.
I was coming here to say that about the glass. I have seen many windows ruined from grinding and welding. Also I probably would've put plastic over all that stuff in the cargo area, just incase cleaning glass out of all that stuff and towels would be miserable. Haha
I was surprised he did not mask off glass. So easy to add some tape and prevent sparks from etching the glass. I know as I did that to a windshield once. Only once. Even I can learn from my mistakes. :)
Guys if you do this repair cover the glass. The sparks from the grinder eat into the glass and you can't clean it. I see it all the time on building site and have had to replace many windows from this damage. May the dark tint will hide it in this instance. Love the channel, have watched since it's inception and live the honesty of the Car Care Nut. Great to see your success, you deserve it my friend.
I have a 2010 Toyota Highlander, I live in Oregon and have to park uncovered outside, I noticed this problem of rust many years ago when I was changing the blade assembly, I decided to oil the shaft, I use a product called Liquid Bearings you can purchase on line. I first used this oil as it is fully synthetic for use on my mechanical clocks and sewing machines, it worked perfectly and I now use it for everything that needs a light oil, including now lock assemblies and hinges. On the Highlander I oil the shaft about every two to three years and it still moves with no resistance and the rust is mostly gone from the nut as well. Great video as usual, I wish you were closer to me.
Places like that which are prone to rusting are probably worth disassembling before it fails and putting a corrosion prevention compound on.... I work on aircraft, and we apply cpc to certain areas every 90 days
@@jswjr6001 Great point, this assembly is not easy to take apart even when new, I am just reporting what has happened with this oil over the last 8 years, I am surprised it works so well to stop rust.
As soon as he pulled out the grinder I was freaking out! I could not wait to see how long it would take for someone to comment about this problem with grinding sparks hitting glass. You can be 10 feet away from a car windshield and the sparks will still burn into the glass. Ask me how I know!
Nicely done, the only time I have had any success with penetrating sprays is to start about a month before the project with at least weekly spraying. Then it’s still iffy.
Hey car nut guy, when using that puller I put the retaining nut half way on the threads so when you use the puller it will stay centered on the shaft and will prevent the puller from slipping off of the stud.
Love the video AMD, My suggestions are below: To put a thin layer of Anti-Seize compound on the threads and bolt before adding the new rubber bell boot. Since most people do not have lifts, trying to remove the bottom bolt off the sway bar links is very difficult. What I have learned to use is a high quality BOLT Splitter tool and just spilt/crack the bolt, so much easier to remove! I would have also replaced the Sway Bar Bushing since they are super easy to get to when the car is on a lift and the removal and installation takes less than 30 mins and the OEM Toyota bushing are super cheap. At 200K miles I am sure those rubber bushing are going to be stiff and hard. This way all front end noises are fixed minus the front struts and control arms. Thank you
@eddieBoxer And not even close. No gimmicks, no editing silliness, just sound advice. I relied on his gui d ancestors to buy for my teenaged kids a 2006 4Runner with 188,000 miles 20 months ago. Cha get every single fluid and lubricant within first month - zero issues, except I just noted worn and torn right exterior CV boots. I'm gon a tale his advice and replace all 4 inner and outer boots but not the axles unless they look damaged. Guy is a wizard.
I have a 2013 just like this one, 197K km. My rear wiper stopped working last spring. Same issue as you demonstrated, except on mine the motor was still working. The wiper wasn't seized, but just very hard to turn on its shaft. As you shown, it was impossible to take it off. I gave it a good workout by hand, sprayed penetrating oil and let the glass open overnight hoping the oil will go down along the shaft somehow. It's back working for now, but now I know exactly what's involved if I eventually have to tackle this job. Thanks!
GB electric makes a product called ox-guard. It’s a paste used to prevent galvanic corrosion. I’ve used it for years on antenna connections on my semis. Even after 5 years there’s no corrosion and the connectors always come apart easy
This is the same year as mine, so I appreciate the heads up. Mine is going in for its major 120,000 mile service very soon and I won't be skimping on parts. OEM all the way. I really like my car and may keep it for another 10 years. Still drives beautifully. Thanks again!
Great job Ahmed! I actually used to work at a Toyota Dealership Service Center and I do in fact remember these rear wipers going bad. I also remember that the parking brake cables were somewhat sensitive and had a tendency of snapping loose if you pulled on it too hard to apply the parking brake. I remember one time having to move an older Tundra truck that was a stick shift that had that issue, which we eventually fixed for the customer, and I had to drive it around before I could find a level enough surface to park it.
Attention to detail is unmatched! Welcome tip on sway bar labor estimates. I think I have been finally and emphatically warned:"No aftermarket parts on a Toyota!"
Beautifully, patiently executed! Having some experience as a glass installer, I can tell you tempered glass is much stronger on its face than you think; it's that inner edge that's your enemy there! Catch a tool on that inner edge, and kerpow, the hole glass de-rezzes into black diamonds. I would encourage you to pull a couple of those back glasses from a junkyard, set them up on a stand with a large moving blanket on the floor under it, and just grab some small metal pry tools and go to town. Face shield, apron, cut gloves and sleeves, please. Amp up your intensity as you play with it until the glass breaks. We used to do this exercise with trainees after they had enough experience with laminated parts so they could get a feel for the properties of tempered parts. To anyone that says this is dangerous, yes, you are correct. Working with glass is dangerous, and it's much better to learn about how it behaves in a controlled environment guided by experienced technicians, than to learn about it in the field when there's no one around to help you. :)
I have the same model Highlander and while doing my sway bar links i came across the same 18mm........(aftermarket...youre right) But to hear you say that about 18mm and on the same component...makes my day. i had such an issue with these dang things....so its very comforting to see, even someone with as much experience as you run into some stupid parts and have the same reaction. i also have a weird knocking coming from my front right....still.. also after seeing the underside of this highlander. i would be ashamed to let you critique mine.(its a hand me down with 220k btw. not an excuse though.)
Love your expertise and attention to detail. I would be so happy to work with you given the choice. Keep up the good work, and keep on keeping real. You are a breath of fresh air in this day and age.
Good suspension repair and the customer will appreciate the working wiper. I had to buy the rear blade. Never changed the rear blade on my 2020 RAV4 before. I removed the arm/ blade assembly and figured it out. Mostly in the Antelope Valley it's Sun, heat and dust that takes out the blade rubber. It was cool outside this week, but I'm waiting till about the middle of October to reinstall the assembly when it's cooler. That wiper doesn't get used much and the dust/dirt accumulate on the blade rubber. Cleaning it often helps the blade rubber last a little longer.
You're a great mechanic, however as a rust belter diy-er, I can certainly say those penetrating oils help, I've used them with success lots of times, however they don't work instantly, it's not like flipping a light switch, for something like this, I'd be soaking it often for about a week, minimum, before even attempting it, often times some heat may be required as well, which makes this job even iffier, with patience and given enough time, it will come apart. Having said that, might have saved that wiper arm, and the trim piece, not exactly worth the trouble at shop rate. You did good.
@@Gravvvyyy I've got 5 sizes. I don't use them all the time but when I need them I'm glad they're in the toolbox. The bigger pliers I got don't have teeth to tear things up but they got some serious squeeze. They are great for plumbing or busting loose a AN line without messing up the flats.
There is a little popular trick about this from breaking the glass and it's called lube every year with PB anticease spray or WD 40 heavy suty then silicon paste the inner cylinder exposed in place. You will be even replacing the whole tbing without a hassle and risk of breaking the rear glass.
My thought would be to would put some grease in the rubber cup so the shaft itself can't seize again. I would also put a very small dab of never-seize on the end of the threaded portion of the shaft and into the hole of the wiper arm.
Clips are always a pain. I occasional order extras if I can find them. And no we don’t get paid for the clip nightmares that develop unless gets really bad. Oh the joys of flat rate.
I wish you were in Florida. I have 2010 Higlander and last few maintenance visits to Toyota Service have been very fristrating. They came up with different repairs required. And no explanation to why they cannot make up their mind. It has 209k miles and only problem is the whole suspension. If I felt like this car was safe to drive up tour shop I would. :(
I’ve encountered this once but not to the extent of having to replace the motor on a bmw x3. I had to replace the wiper arm and it was a pain but I got it off eventually. So after I did I made sure to put some copper anti-grease to the bolt. The issue is there’s aluminum and steel coming in contact and galvanic corrosion will rust/weld this two dissimilar metals together. Every car I’ve had since I’d put the anti seize on the post from day one. Also, I think you should invest in an oscillating cutter. Much better for this kind of surgery compared to the dremel.
Beautiful videography and lighting! One idea---Toyota assembles these Highlanders in one of their best factories in Princeton Indiana, a mere three hours drive from Chicago. It would be interesting for you to interface with their people and get an insight into the engineering and quality control on the manufacturing side. (our family sold Toyota the land for the factory 30 years ago). Keep up the good work AMD!
the only thing i have had the best luck with rusty, corroded parts stuck together is Rust Check spray in a can...leave it over night and try the next morning...it isn't wd-40 or PB blaster...but it worked for me...I would have covered the glass with a welding blanket before getting near it with the cutoff wheel...i personally have seen glass crack from hot sparks...yikes
I just find that a little impact action always works better than oil. I almost never use oil on rusty things. A little vibration seems to work the best for me.
I found out the hard way that grinding steel at least 6 feet away from toughened glass, the metal sparks actually bond to the glass. Best to cover the glass before grinding.
Put another nut on top of the threaded shaft half way. Now there's a depression so the wiper puller shaft won't slide off. Also, fill the new rubber cup with rubber grease to fill any air gap and keep water out. Spraying some battery terminal protector on the new nut will stop more corrosion.
Well, PB blaster will work for this job, but only DIY. You need to put some on every 3-4 hours, for 2-3 DAYS! I managed to even get an exhaust nut loose with that (where the flange is). And I live in the rust\snow belt of Canada (Quebec).
This man can actually do the work. He uses his hands...unlike other UA-cam "mechanics" that talk and talk while others around them work and never get the credit.
@26:50 - Honestly I was hoping you didn't leave it at the first position. You didn't hear it but I did yell "Yes!" as you decided to move it up a little bit at the rest position. Great video!
This is one of those jobs that I would replace on my personal car cause I’m a mechanic. If someone asked me what they should do about it, I would say just leave it… those back wipers are mostly useless
You say useless, but when I was driving a minivan I often used rear wiper for better visibility at the rear. Now I drive a sedan and I really miss that rear wiper. Wish all sedans would come with it.
For an old bmw - for me it was a case of using a small drill bit & drilling the shaft a number of times that got the wiper out. Maybe pilot drill & use a larger one to reduce/remove the existing shaft /material might help
I bought a Land Cruiser new just like that white one in the back ground. Mine was an ‘85 in red. I got rid of it when I got a job I had to commute 55 miles each way to work. It got 11 or 12 mpg and had a really small gas tank. I wanna say it was like 12 gallons. I was filling up every other day! Still, I miss it. In ‘85 it still had a manual choke.
Toyota, that when the rear window wiper has not been used for a while, and you turn it on, it takes a while before the water gets on the glass. I myself have added a small non-return valve to the water hose, it prevents the water flowing back into the tank and the water comes to the glass immediately when you turn it on.
Another method would be to pilot drill the 8mm wiper pivot shaft with a 3mm drill bit and then open it out with a 7mm drill bit, using a battery hand drill . This should then be easy to dismantle without the risk of catching the glass screen with the grinding disk.
I’ve had like five Highlanders and I’ve got two right now, and I’ve had two that look like that: but I’ve never seen or known any of mine to have the ability to open just the back glass like that. and you’ve commented on one of my Highlanders in public years ago.
Wondering if adding a coating of anti-seize to the wiper shaft threads, behind its boot, would have been a good extra layer of protection? Would it be worth it?
Humble suggestion: an oscilating cutter with a hight quality blade for metal will be usefull in your shop for small/precision tasks. It would cut that wiper shaft flush between nut and flange in ten seconds. Thanks for your classes. 👍
Question about the puller. What about drilling a small starter hole in the shaft of the wiper arm to prevent your puller from wandering? I'd still replace the shaft and arm, but I would try that before cutting the shaft. Thoughts?
We are from the west coast and just moved to the rust belt. We have a spotless 2012 Highlander just like this one. This video only made my salt/rust anxiety worse 😂
Every time I watch Amd I continue to hear a common Language with Toyota products “ It’s a Common Problem” 😂 Why do these products have so many problems? Love your dedication, passion, and talent Amd I’m just not a Toyota fan. Keep up the good work sir 👊 Not many great mechanics left anymore.
You're spot on about them cheap aftermarket quick struts, absolute garbage. The only one's my shop will get are the KYB branded quick struts, we've had good luck with them.
Replaced swaybar links on my Corolla iM just a month ago. Cranked the steering to 1 side, lied on the floor and used just handtools. I wouldn't have bothered to get all the air- and electric tools and extensions. Was a job of 10 minutes total.
Funny thing. Toyota published a service bulletin on this that everyone completely ignored. One day a thousand stainless bolts came in and my name was somewhere in the paperwork. The parts manager came to me and asked why. I did not know.
I always hired service writers that were mechanics. Nothing worse than a service writer overcharging customers on labor and a parts managers trying to up their bonuses at the expense of my customers. I would get a Monday morning ass chewing from the dealer principal because I wouldn’t lie,cheat or steal. Glad to see a business owner in the automotive field that is honest and trustworthy. Thanks for all the great videos.
That happens in every industry. Most 97% of people won't do the right thing in most cases. They just lay over and do what is told so they don't have to deal with the problems.
Not just a great mechanic but also a great explanation of procedure
The advice about door panel trim clips alone is worth the price of admission.
The Car Care Nut is honorable and provides insights into the auto repair business that is most appreciated.Live long and prosper.😢
Other mechanics would say "good enough" but this mechanic, cares.
Long time viewer. Liking your channel. It should be on PBS Stations.
When sanding or grinding aluminum, one must be very careful with the dust that is created (aluminum oxide) it’s damaging to our lungs. I use a 3M double filtered mask and put a large fan behind me to keep the dust away from the face. Excellent post and excellent save on the rear glass. Thank you!
I was about to say the same thing 👏AMD, please take care of yourself.
amazing job on the rear wiper. the last minute reflexion is what makes you the GOAT; no rip off, not in parts, not in labor, not in charging the customer. The mechanic that meets Toyota's standards.
Fun watch.. Jose is not scared of no stinkin glass.
When grinding or welding steel near glass, always mask off the glass. The sparks from grinding will stick to the glass and there is no way to remove them. A single edge razor will take off the metal, but the glass will have very small creators that cant be removed or polished out. You may also want to try a Makita XSB01Z 18V LXT 3/8" Detail Belt Sander. This sander is a lot easier to control than a die grinder, especially around tight arias such as this.
Absolutely!
I was coming here to say that about the glass. I have seen many windows ruined from grinding and welding. Also I probably would've put plastic over all that stuff in the cargo area, just incase cleaning glass out of all that stuff and towels would be miserable. Haha
Since he owns a Milwaukee M12 stubby tool with a battery, he's better off with the Milwaukee 2483-20 3/8 Band File
agreed - band saw and band file only - no way id be spinning dremel grit anywhere near that area!!
I was surprised he did not mask off glass. So easy to add some tape and prevent sparks from etching the glass. I know as I did that to a windshield once. Only once. Even I can learn from my mistakes. :)
Guys if you do this repair cover the glass. The sparks from the grinder eat into the glass and you can't clean it. I see it all the time on building site and have had to replace many windows from this damage. May the dark tint will hide it in this instance. Love the channel, have watched since it's inception and live the honesty of the Car Care Nut. Great to see your success, you deserve it my friend.
🙌🙌🙌🙌
Yeah, 100%. I can speak from experience here. His comment about 'weird debris' makes me wonder if he noticed it too...
I have a 2010 Toyota Highlander, I live in Oregon and have to park uncovered outside, I noticed this problem of rust many years ago when I was changing the blade assembly, I decided to oil the shaft, I use a product called Liquid Bearings you can purchase on line. I first used this oil as it is fully synthetic for use on my mechanical clocks and sewing machines, it worked perfectly and I now use it for everything that needs a light oil, including now lock assemblies and hinges. On the Highlander I oil the shaft about every two to three years and it still moves with no resistance and the rust is mostly gone from the nut as well. Great video as usual, I wish you were closer to me.
Such an honest mechanic, how this country would be with honest mechanics like AMD.
Places like that which are prone to rusting are probably worth disassembling before it fails and putting a corrosion prevention compound on....
I work on aircraft, and we apply cpc to certain areas every 90 days
@@jswjr6001 Great point, this assembly is not easy to take apart even when new, I am just reporting what has happened with this oil over the last 8 years, I am surprised it works so well to stop rust.
@@brettster3331 oh absolutely, a light oil in that environment may be perfect.
@@eddieBoxer AMD? CCN? ALL THESE ACRONYMS WHATS THE DEAL FOLKS!
Nice to view a mechanic who knows what he's doing in a very professional way. Enjoy watching your videos!!
The attention to detail is impeccable ... Whoever your customers are, they are lucky to have a great mechanic like you.
His patience is the best part of the video. Awesome job!
As soon as he pulled out the grinder I was freaking out! I could not wait to see how long it would take for someone to comment about this problem with grinding sparks hitting glass. You can be 10 feet away from a car windshield and the sparks will still burn into the glass. Ask me how I know!
Nicely done, the only time I have had any success with penetrating sprays is to start about a month before the project with at least weekly spraying. Then it’s still iffy.
Was waiting for the glass to shatter 😮 should have known you'd get it done without incident !!!
Hey car nut guy, when using that puller I put the retaining nut half way on the threads so when you use the puller it will stay centered on the shaft and will prevent the puller from slipping off of the stud.
Love the video AMD,
My suggestions are below:
To put a thin layer of Anti-Seize compound on the threads and bolt before adding the new rubber bell boot.
Since most people do not have lifts, trying to remove the bottom bolt off the sway bar links is very difficult. What I have learned to use is a high quality BOLT Splitter tool and just spilt/crack the bolt, so much easier to remove!
I would have also replaced the Sway Bar Bushing since they are super easy to get to when the car is on a lift and the removal and installation takes less than 30 mins and the OEM Toyota bushing are super cheap. At 200K miles I am sure those rubber bushing are going to be stiff and hard. This way all front end noises are fixed minus the front struts and control arms.
Thank you
Your work is second to none. The pride you have in your work is even more amazing
I just immediately fixed my rear wiper because of this video. Piled it, and fixed it! Thank you
*oiled* it
The best mechanic on UA-cam, thank you Amd.
@eddieBoxer And not even close. No gimmicks, no editing silliness, just sound advice. I relied on his gui d ancestors to buy for my teenaged kids a 2006 4Runner with 188,000 miles 20 months ago. Cha get every single fluid and lubricant within first month - zero issues, except I just noted worn and torn right exterior CV boots. I'm gon a tale his advice and replace all 4 inner and outer boots but not the axles unless they look damaged. Guy is a wizard.
We all need to appreciate Jose as well as the mechanic!! 😊
On the wiper shaft if you people in the rust belt put a tiny bit of fluid film on the metal parts every year it will keep them from corroding as fast.
"Very unbeautiful" aftermarket struts 35:42 Colorful description, I like it 😍
I have a 2013 just like this one, 197K km. My rear wiper stopped working last spring. Same issue as you demonstrated, except on mine the motor was still working. The wiper wasn't seized, but just very hard to turn on its shaft. As you shown, it was impossible to take it off. I gave it a good workout by hand, sprayed penetrating oil and let the glass open overnight hoping the oil will go down along the shaft somehow. It's back working for now, but now I know exactly what's involved if I eventually have to tackle this job. Thanks!
Good job! 21.40. The rubber plug should be filled with grease. This will prevent water from getting inside the mechanism.
GB electric makes a product called ox-guard. It’s a paste used to prevent galvanic corrosion. I’ve used it for years on antenna connections on my semis. Even after 5 years there’s no corrosion and the connectors always come apart easy
Yes, the salt we live with in Illinois! Thanks for the heads up on the wiper shaft getting stiff and the new Boot!
well done! I love the white landcruiser in the background
Remarkably, not a single f-bomb, despite the some parts of the wiper fix not going smoothly.👏
I saw that loose clip when you were holding that panel and I was yelling, “that clip is falling out” but you didn’t hear me 😂😂
Best Master Mechanic in the world. My hats off to The Car Care Nut.❤
This is the same year as mine, so I appreciate the heads up. Mine is going in for its major 120,000 mile service very soon and I won't be skimping on parts. OEM all the way. I really like my car and may keep it for another 10 years. Still drives beautifully. Thanks again!
Honestly, at the risk of shattering the rear window, that wiper becomes a non-functional feature in my book. Sucks for you rust belters!!
Yes, rust sucks
No rust.! This is why we pay the big bucks while living on the west coast
No rust in Oklahoma and its cheap. My $750 per month mortgage means I spend winters in the Philippines sitting under a mango tree.
@@johndowns7536 right on!
on SUV’s; the rear wiper a must have function.
(in my opinion)
Great job Ahmed! I actually used to work at a Toyota Dealership Service Center and I do in fact remember these rear wipers going bad. I also remember that the parking brake cables were somewhat sensitive and had a tendency of snapping loose if you pulled on it too hard to apply the parking brake. I remember one time having to move an older Tundra truck that was a stick shift that had that issue, which we eventually fixed for the customer, and I had to drive it around before I could find a level enough surface to park it.
Attention to detail is unmatched! Welcome tip on sway bar labor estimates. I think I have been finally and emphatically warned:"No aftermarket parts on a Toyota!"
Beautifully, patiently executed! Having some experience as a glass installer, I can tell you tempered glass is much stronger on its face than you think; it's that inner edge that's your enemy there! Catch a tool on that inner edge, and kerpow, the hole glass de-rezzes into black diamonds.
I would encourage you to pull a couple of those back glasses from a junkyard, set them up on a stand with a large moving blanket on the floor under it, and just grab some small metal pry tools and go to town. Face shield, apron, cut gloves and sleeves, please. Amp up your intensity as you play with it until the glass breaks. We used to do this exercise with trainees after they had enough experience with laminated parts so they could get a feel for the properties of tempered parts.
To anyone that says this is dangerous, yes, you are correct. Working with glass is dangerous, and it's much better to learn about how it behaves in a controlled environment guided by experienced technicians, than to learn about it in the field when there's no one around to help you. :)
Hi, For removing wiper arm with puller You shall put nut on thread then puller will not go off during puler.
I love the attention to detail always.
I have the same model Highlander and while doing my sway bar links i came across the same 18mm........(aftermarket...youre right)
But to hear you say that about 18mm and on the same component...makes my day. i had such an issue with these dang things....so its very comforting to see, even someone with as much experience as you run into some stupid parts and have the same reaction. i also have a weird knocking coming from my front right....still..
also after seeing the underside of this highlander. i would be ashamed to let you critique mine.(its a hand me down with 220k btw. not an excuse though.)
I wish a mechanic like you existed here in Colorado. It's really hard to find a good one
That's anywhere
Better also protect the glass as hot sparks from grinding in many cases is causing small craters into the glass
Love your expertise and attention to detail. I would be so happy to work with you given the choice. Keep up the good work, and keep on keeping real. You are a breath of fresh air in this day and age.
Put silicone grease inside the gaiter, so that water is always repelled from causing rust in future.
When you grind near glass, I believe you should cover the glass with something as well because I think the sparks can embed themselves in it.
Good suspension repair and the customer will appreciate the working wiper.
I had to buy the rear blade. Never changed the rear blade on my 2020 RAV4 before. I removed the arm/ blade assembly and figured it out. Mostly in the Antelope Valley it's Sun, heat and dust that takes out the blade rubber. It was cool outside this week, but I'm waiting till about the middle of October to reinstall the assembly when it's cooler. That wiper doesn't get used much and the dust/dirt accumulate on the blade rubber. Cleaning it often helps the blade rubber last a little longer.
We just got a 2013 Highlander and love it. 106k miles. Clean car. Only downside is 19 mpg. But otherwise, love it!
You're a great mechanic, however as a rust belter diy-er, I can certainly say those penetrating oils help, I've used them with success lots of times, however they don't work instantly, it's not like flipping a light switch, for something like this, I'd be soaking it often for about a week, minimum, before even attempting it, often times some heat may be required as well, which makes this job even iffier, with patience and given enough time, it will come apart.
Having said that, might have saved that wiper arm, and the trim piece, not exactly worth the trouble at shop rate. You did good.
WOW! It is a fantastic job. It is step-by-step. Kudos to you TCCN.
Knipex. King of the tool box. A set of those things will save you from thinking of more bad words since the first hundred didn't work.
I have those exact Knipex. I carry them in my pocket every day. They've been so useful I bought a pair for my Dad and my Father in law too.
i just got a pair of the smaller ones...and as much as ive heard about them i have used them...maybe 1 time. maybe size matters with these?
@@Gravvvyyy I've got 5 sizes. I don't use them all the time but when I need them I'm glad they're in the toolbox. The bigger pliers I got don't have teeth to tear things up but they got some serious squeeze. They are great for plumbing or busting loose a AN line without messing up the flats.
There is a little popular trick about this from breaking the glass and it's called lube every year with PB anticease spray or WD 40 heavy suty then silicon paste the inner cylinder exposed in place. You will be even replacing the whole tbing without a hassle and risk of breaking the rear glass.
My thought would be to would put some grease in the rubber cup so the shaft itself can't seize again. I would also put a very small dab of never-seize on the end of the threaded portion of the shaft and into the hole of the wiper arm.
Would it help to put anti-seize on the nut for the next time? Tnx for video
You should try a beefier puller, that thing looked way too bendy.
Clips are always a pain. I occasional order extras if I can find them. And no we don’t get paid for the clip nightmares that develop unless gets really bad. Oh the joys of flat rate.
Another awsome job AMD. You are a mechanic that is always in pursuit of perfection 😎😎👍👍Kudos to you and your dedication to details.
Ty for not leaving the wiper top low..perfect
2009 Limited, last Oil/Tire rotation dealer mentions sway bar links, 183K glad I always watch your videos always informative appreciate you!
I wish you were in Florida. I have 2010 Higlander and last few maintenance visits to Toyota Service have been very fristrating. They came up with different repairs required. And no explanation to why they cannot make up their mind. It has 209k miles and only problem is the whole suspension. If I felt like this car was safe to drive up tour shop I would. :(
I’ve encountered this once but not to the extent of having to replace the motor on a bmw x3. I had to replace the wiper arm and it was a pain but I got it off eventually. So after I did I made sure to put some copper anti-grease to the bolt. The issue is there’s aluminum and steel coming in contact and galvanic corrosion will rust/weld this two dissimilar metals together.
Every car I’ve had since I’d put the anti seize on the post from day one.
Also, I think you should invest in an oscillating cutter. Much better for this kind of surgery compared to the dremel.
Beautiful videography and lighting! One idea---Toyota assembles these Highlanders in one of their best factories in Princeton Indiana, a mere three hours drive from Chicago. It would be interesting for you to interface with their people and get an insight into the engineering and quality control on the manufacturing side. (our family sold Toyota the land for the factory 30 years ago). Keep up the good work AMD!
I always wanted to see a lander with those rims. Thank god. 😊
That wiper arm cutting got me on the edge of my seat too... So, so scatch...🥶
the only thing i have had the best luck with rusty, corroded parts stuck together is Rust Check spray in a can...leave it over night and try the next morning...it isn't wd-40 or PB blaster...but it worked for me...I would have covered the glass with a welding blanket before getting near it with the cutoff wheel...i personally have seen glass crack from hot sparks...yikes
I just find that a little impact action always works better than oil. I almost never use oil on rusty things. A little vibration seems to work the best for me.
I found out the hard way that grinding steel at least 6 feet away from toughened glass, the metal sparks actually bond to the glass. Best to cover the glass before grinding.
Put another nut on top of the threaded shaft half way. Now there's a depression so the wiper puller shaft won't slide off.
Also, fill the new rubber cup with rubber grease to fill any air gap and keep water out.
Spraying some battery terminal protector on the new nut will stop more corrosion.
Well, PB blaster will work for this job, but only DIY. You need to put some on every 3-4 hours, for 2-3 DAYS! I managed to even get an exhaust nut loose with that (where the flange is). And I live in the rust\snow belt of Canada (Quebec).
Have you ever tried to use an induction heater on the wiper to break the rust bond? I live in the rust belt, and heat is always a life saver.
That is the solution
My detailer blessed it and scraped the sprayed paint off my rear window. Blessed it my guy Ivan.
This man can actually do the work. He uses his hands...unlike other UA-cam "mechanics" that talk and talk while others around them work and never get the credit.
Wut?
No prying on glass because "glass is glass and it will break". Brilliant and educational mechanic.
Somebody watches Jerry rig everything‘s channel!
It works. Just not on that. Great job. Happy for you that the glass did not get broken.
Lol. AMD, when you were cutting, it sounded like my dentist drilling! Thanks for another great video.
@26:50 - Honestly I was hoping you didn't leave it at the first position. You didn't hear it but I did yell "Yes!" as you decided to move it up a little bit at the rest position. Great video!
This job was truly nuts. Amazing work.
This is one of those jobs that I would replace on my personal car cause I’m a mechanic. If someone asked me what they should do about it, I would say just leave it… those back wipers are mostly useless
Yep, thinking the same thing.
Yeah I would’ve applied rain x and called it a day lol
Most definitely lol I have an Fx45 and 4Runner and hardly use my back wipers
You say useless, but when I was driving a minivan I often used rear wiper for better visibility at the rear. Now I drive a sedan and I really miss that rear wiper. Wish all sedans would come with it.
One on my Pilot works just fine.
Always great videos, I truly hate rust and the battle to keep it in check.
For an old bmw - for me it was a case of using a small drill bit & drilling the shaft a number of times that got the wiper out. Maybe pilot drill & use a larger one to reduce/remove the existing shaft /material might help
I bought a Land Cruiser new just like that white one in the back ground. Mine was an ‘85 in red. I got rid of it when I got a job I had to commute 55 miles each way to work. It got 11 or 12 mpg and had a really small gas tank. I wanna say it was like 12 gallons. I was filling up every other day! Still, I miss it. In ‘85 it still had a manual choke.
Toyota, that when the rear window wiper has not been used for a while, and you turn it on, it takes a while before the water gets on the glass. I myself have added a small non-return valve to the water hose, it prevents the water flowing back into the tank and the water comes to the glass immediately when you turn it on.
Another method would be to pilot drill the 8mm wiper pivot shaft with a 3mm drill bit and then open it out with a 7mm drill bit, using a battery hand drill . This should then be easy to dismantle without the risk of catching the glass screen with the grinding disk.
Great job! What about a little grease on that pivot shaft?
Shattered the rear window on my 2012 Highlander trying to do this repair a few years ago. :(
I’ve had like five Highlanders and I’ve got two right now, and I’ve had two that look like that: but I’ve never seen or known any of mine to have the ability to open just the back glass like that. and you’ve commented on one of my Highlanders in public years ago.
Wondering if adding a coating of anti-seize to the wiper shaft threads, behind its boot, would have been a good extra layer of protection? Would it be worth it?
Humble suggestion: an oscilating cutter with a hight quality blade for metal will be usefull in your shop for small/precision tasks. It would cut that wiper shaft flush between nut and flange in ten seconds. Thanks for your classes. 👍
I did a similar repair on a Honda Odyssey. Same type of corrosion.
Question about the puller. What about drilling a small starter hole in the shaft of the wiper arm to prevent your puller from wandering? I'd still replace the shaft and arm, but I would try that before cutting the shaft. Thoughts?
What a beautiful 60 you have in the background! Looking forward to that story.
When my man mentions "Going to Plan Z" you know its gonna get spicy. That quote should be in the title.
We are from the west coast and just moved to the rust belt. We have a spotless 2012 Highlander just like this one. This video only made my salt/rust anxiety worse 😂
Every time I watch Amd I continue to hear a common Language with Toyota products “ It’s a Common Problem” 😂 Why do these products have so many problems?
Love your dedication, passion, and talent Amd I’m just not a Toyota fan.
Keep up the good work sir 👊 Not many great mechanics left anymore.
Toyota quality has gone down in past years and Toyota is not doing anything to improve it. Sad.
All vehicles have problems.... he highlights relatively minor issues...... unlike bad engines and transmissions
You're spot on about them cheap aftermarket quick struts, absolute garbage. The only one's my shop will get are the KYB branded quick struts, we've had good luck with them.
Replaced swaybar links on my Corolla iM just a month ago. Cranked the steering to 1 side, lied on the floor and used just handtools. I wouldn't have bothered to get all the air- and electric tools and extensions. Was a job of 10 minutes total.
CCN is the man 🎉
New Highlander are great but that old body style was fantastic as well
Funny thing. Toyota published a service bulletin on this that everyone completely ignored. One day a thousand stainless bolts came in and my name was somewhere in the paperwork. The parts manager came to me and asked why. I did not know.
I am most appreciative of your repair videos. Thank you