Great idea with just polishing it. Looks good. I’m in the process of making my Blackfoot 2016 look like the vintage BF with Ampro Engineering 3D printed Ford badging. Just waiting for the pieces to arrive. Keep up the great vids....
I tested this on the inside of my tailgate, turns out my cheapo rotary tool is way too fast, even on its slowest setting. Ill have to go the route of thoroughly cleaning the body, painting and varnishing but it was well worth a shot. It looks like a great alternative to painting if you have the equipment for it, thanks for sharing :)
I was unsure too. I'd polished scratches out of chassis and things before but never tried a whole body. I think it looks better than Tamiya TS paints, straight from the can anyway. I've found they look great when wet, but dull off a lot when they dry. Thanks for your support! 🙂👍
Thanks Michael. For the grille I just thinned some Tamiya black enamel till it was almost like water. Then using a fine brush, just dip the brush in the paint and kind of just let it drip into the lower parts of the grille, keeping the grille level (facing up) of course. Then just wipe off any paint around the chrome. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Thanks a ton! I will be trying this for sure! What kind of ratio did you use? I'm very new to hand painting, always had lexan shells and spray cans up until this point.
@@mikesofunny No probs! You only want to thin it enough so it will drip off the brush. I don't have an actual ratio, but off the top of my head I'd say try 2 parts enamel to 1 part enamel thinner. Remember it's just gotta be able to drip into the holes, so you don't need to go sticking the brush into the grille. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed That would be a good vid to watch. I've got an original Monster Beetle but not a rerelease, yet. Needs a new body though. I think they need a wheelie bar so the number plate doesn't break off like they're prone to.
@@keithrx3c I'll definitely do a video when I build it. I think the Beetle just moved to the top of the list. Oh yeah, they need a wheelie bar for sure. In one of Matteo's videos he upgraded the diff and went brushless. The rear of the body didn't last long at all! 🤣
Thats Come up Awesome Bud, I really love what youve brought it up like , better than a paint job could you let me know the paint number for the blue on the lights and also the orange on the front grill lights came up really good , i just bought one myself and was thinking of a matt or satin black finnish , my question is do i need an undercoat to paint on to the hardbody prior to final color as i have never ever painted a hardbody before and now i have three to paint also have a subaru brat to re-paint after a second hand purchase and i have a clod buster which is new and pure white , so looks like ill be getting some hardbody experience real soon real fast lol any advice would be great but that blackfoot came up a treat , well done .
Thanks! The blue I used for the lights is a paint (really more of a dye) for use in an airbrush, it's Createx Auto-Air Candy2o blue. Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue might also work. The orange on the indicators is Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange. I have painted hard bodies without primer and not had any peeling, but I really think hard bodies should be primed first. You can do 2-3 coats of primer, once it's dry you can sand with 800 or 1000 paper then hit it with the paint. I quite often go wet on wet if I don't want to spend a lot of time on it. In that case, do your 2-3 light coats of primer then before the final primer coat is dry start spraying your colour on for another 2-3 coats. I usually paint the final coat reasonably heavy for a better shine, but not enough to get paint runs of course. For the matt finish, I wouldn't go heavy on the final coat, in that case I'd focus on making sure all the coats are evenly applied so you don't risk getting patchy/shiny areas. Hope this helps! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed thanks heaps for all the tips and advice as this is all new for me so yeah got to start somewhere and if i get right into building which i can see happening ill be investing in an airbrush system/kit for that extra pro Finnish that i have been seeing a lot lately on youtube but some of these guys are like magicians with paint there work is remarkable but ill have to start off with the basics and work up from there learning as i go but any help and advice tips and colours are always muchley appreciated. thanks again
@@andrewmagro7703 No probs! There's really no need for an airbrush right away, you can still do awesome paint jobs with cans. Sure and airbrush is handy later down the track though. I have a few builds on my channel where I use the airbrush and will be doing a very basic video real soon, mainly aimed at beginners (which I really am also, as far as airbrushing). I think you'll be fine with your painting, I'm sensing the enthusiasm and that's always they key! 👍
That is slick! Wish I'd done this with my sons black tamiya midnight pumpkin!!! I'll keep it in mind for next time, cheers!
what a great idea! I'm on it
That is incredible looks fantastic dude
excellent details- thanks for the tips
Thanks, glad you found it helpful.
Have a great new year! 👍
WOW! That polishing looks great.
Thank you! 🙂👍
Wow , amazing, You have so many Tamiya rigs. Excellent!
Thanks! Hoping to grow the collection a lot more. Just need more space.. and money! 🤣🤣
Amazing Rc Rigs and a awesome body, good Job on the Mods, carnt wait to see the running video 👍😊👍
Great idea with just polishing it. Looks good. I’m in the process of making my Blackfoot 2016 look like the vintage BF with Ampro Engineering 3D printed Ford badging. Just waiting for the pieces to arrive. Keep up the great vids....
Thanks mate! Great idea, the Blackfoot will look so much better with the Ford badges. I looks kind of naked without them. 🙂👍
Looks great, nice looking truck. Good to it running and how it goes . Nice work mate.
Thanks! Will get it out for a run soon hopefully. 👍
great work there mate super cool
Thanks! 👍
Fantastic tip and great job....👍🏻
Thanks! 🙂👍
I tested this on the inside of my tailgate, turns out my cheapo rotary tool is way too fast, even on its slowest setting.
Ill have to go the route of thoroughly cleaning the body, painting and varnishing but it was well worth a shot.
It looks like a great alternative to painting if you have the equipment for it, thanks for sharing :)
Damn mate the polishing made it look great!
Thanks mate. Yeah I think I may do this with all bodies moulded in box art colour. 🙂👍
You did a proper good job on that mate she looks well smart 👌👍
Thanks mate. I wasn't too sure how it would turn out by not painting, but turned out pretty good I think. 🙂👍
RC Hobby Shed yes definitely it looks smart as
I got the idea when I polished out some scratches from an original Blackfoot and when I saw the shine I decided to do my entire rere body.
Always wondered if you could do this. Love the videos.
I was unsure too. I'd polished scratches out of chassis and things before but never tried a whole body. I think it looks better than Tamiya TS paints, straight from the can anyway. I've found they look great when wet, but dull off a lot when they dry. Thanks for your support! 🙂👍
Do you have any other RC Blackfoot trucks please comment back or brat trucks that you might watch you sell Thank you
Hi Martin. I only have the one Blackfoot and a Brat, but sorry I don't have any for sale. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Ok
@@RCHobbyShed If you ever just say to sell the Brat let me know OK thank you
@@martinneps9387 Cool, will let you know if I consider selling. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed OK thank you very much
The body looks fantastic! I'm building one of these right now. How did you get the grille inlay black, while leaving the bars chrome?
Thanks Michael. For the grille I just thinned some Tamiya black enamel till it was almost like water. Then using a fine brush, just dip the brush in the paint and kind of just let it drip into the lower parts of the grille, keeping the grille level (facing up) of course. Then just wipe off any paint around the chrome. 👍
@@RCHobbyShed Thanks a ton! I will be trying this for sure! What kind of ratio did you use? I'm very new to hand painting, always had lexan shells and spray cans up until this point.
@@mikesofunny No probs! You only want to thin it enough so it will drip off the brush. I don't have an actual ratio, but off the top of my head I'd say try 2 parts enamel to 1 part enamel thinner. Remember it's just gotta be able to drip into the holes, so you don't need to go sticking the brush into the grille. 👍
Nice work mate, looks the goods. Got me wondering how a Monster Beetle would turn out with the same treatment.
Thanks mate. You've just reminded me, I have a Monster Beetle that needs building! lol. I think it would turn out great with a polished body. 😁👍
@@RCHobbyShed That would be a good vid to watch. I've got an original Monster Beetle but not a rerelease, yet. Needs a new body though. I think they need a wheelie bar so the number plate doesn't break off like they're prone to.
@@keithrx3c I'll definitely do a video when I build it. I think the Beetle just moved to the top of the list. Oh yeah, they need a wheelie bar for sure. In one of Matteo's videos he upgraded the diff and went brushless. The rear of the body didn't last long at all! 🤣
Thats Come up Awesome Bud, I really love what youve brought it up like , better than a paint job could you let me know the paint number for the blue on the lights and also the orange on the front grill lights came up really good , i just bought one myself and was thinking of a matt or satin black finnish , my question is do i need an undercoat to paint on to the hardbody prior to final color as i have never ever painted a hardbody before and now i have three to paint also have a subaru brat to re-paint after a second hand purchase and i have a clod buster which is new and pure white , so looks like ill be getting some hardbody experience real soon real fast lol any advice would be great but that blackfoot came up a treat , well done .
Thanks! The blue I used for the lights is a paint (really more of a dye) for use in an airbrush, it's Createx Auto-Air Candy2o blue. Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue might also work. The orange on the indicators is Tamiya X-26 Clear Orange. I have painted hard bodies without primer and not had any peeling, but I really think hard bodies should be primed first. You can do 2-3 coats of primer, once it's dry you can sand with 800 or 1000 paper then hit it with the paint. I quite often go wet on wet if I don't want to spend a lot of time on it. In that case, do your 2-3 light coats of primer then before the final primer coat is dry start spraying your colour on for another 2-3 coats. I usually paint the final coat reasonably heavy for a better shine, but not enough to get paint runs of course. For the matt finish, I wouldn't go heavy on the final coat, in that case I'd focus on making sure all the coats are evenly applied so you don't risk getting patchy/shiny areas. Hope this helps! 👍
@@RCHobbyShed thanks heaps for all the tips and advice as this is all new for me so yeah got to start somewhere and if i get right into building which i can see happening ill be investing in an airbrush system/kit for that extra pro Finnish that i have been seeing a lot lately on youtube but some of these guys are like magicians with paint there work is remarkable but ill have to start off with the basics and work up from there learning as i go but any help and advice tips and colours are always muchley appreciated. thanks again
@@andrewmagro7703 No probs! There's really no need for an airbrush right away, you can still do awesome paint jobs with cans. Sure and airbrush is handy later down the track though. I have a few builds on my channel where I use the airbrush and will be doing a very basic video real soon, mainly aimed at beginners (which I really am also, as far as airbrushing). I think you'll be fine with your painting, I'm sensing the enthusiasm and that's always they key! 👍
Will u run...the Blackfoot?
Sure will. I don't know when, but it will get a run. 👍
Toll immer noch ein
Zweitausendsechzehn ! 🙄🤢🤮