Thanks for the uploads, I've watched every part of this series as I'm waiting for my M1. I really like how you are showing every part of the process in pieces and not trying to give out too much info. So far you've shown enough for me to figure this out and get working on it. Much appreciated and please continue to make these videos.
Thank you, I needed someone to explain the software in a way that I can understand. There are lots of learning curves here, but I should be producing items by the end of the month. 🥰
You are welcome! BTW, they have already made improvements to the software since I last made this video. It is definitely getting better but could still use some more improvement (which they are working on)
@@MonkeyWoodworks Have you done anything with the laser calibration, I cannot get it to cut all the way through. Some parts are and some parts are not?
I have not. What i have found is that material can have different densities in it. Sometimes it cuts, other times it leaves a little material left over. The only way around that is to throw more power at it, slow down the cut speed, or add another pass or two. Sometimes it's a combination of the three. Unfortunately its trial and error. For the pieces that do not completely cut all the way, i keep an x-acto knife handy to finish the cut from the backside.
FYI: "Substract at overlap" makes a hole only where the shapes overlap, unlike regular substract which removes the top shape and overlap. This is better visible in engrave mode and mostly useful for that. Let's say you want to engrave a wide heart shaped outline around a name. Create two heart shapes like you did for your hearts, but set them both to "engrave". Place the smaller one in the front, select both and use "substract at overlap" and instead of a big solid heart you will have just the outline. Now just add the name in the middle.
@@MonkeyWoodworks I removed it because both "substract" options are cookie cutters so it's not what makes them different, the difference is that "substract" removes the whole frontmost shape including where it overlaps the other one, and "substract at overlap" removes only the part where the two shapes overlap. For the mathematically minded, "unite" is OR, ""substract" is NOT, "unite at overlap" is AND, and "substract at overlap" is XOR. BTW in "circular grid" the X and Y are the centre of the circle on which your shapes will be laid out. It defaults to the centre of your shape. Diameter of the circle is distance from [X, Y] to centre of your shape. 0° is straight up from [X, Y] and goes clockwise.
Thanks for the kind word and yes, It's really easy to use. They came out with another software update yesterday. Now you can use system fonts! Plus bug fixes as well.
Awesome! Make sure you check out all my videos. As I progress through them I added more tips and tricks as I learn them. Also don't forget to check the description of any of my videos for a link to the engraving settings that I have been using.
Thank you so much for these videos! I received my M1 the other day and your channel has been so helpful!! I haven’t been brave enough to actually test it out yet…but I know your tips will come in really handy!
Actually, the latest update allows you to use system fonts of your computer. So if your custom font is availableon your computer, you can use it in the M1 software I believe.
Hey there. I try to always show the results of a project I make in my videos. I believe there may be 1 or 2 videos where there is no final product because the videos are about a particular technique or task. Other than that, I try to always show the final result.
10:23 The zooming by Ctrl-MouseWheel uses the location of the mouse as the point of reference which stays put when zooming in or out. This may cause the effect you experienced.
Thank you for the video. You showed a lot of tricks that I haven't found yet with the software. Have you tried engraving glass tiles yet with the M1? The clear glass with the backs painted white. If you do, can you share the settings? I have been trying this technique, but it is barely showing through. It looks good from the back, but through the glass it's really faded. Thank you!
Another great video. I tend to go straight to your videos when I’m trying something new on my M1. One question regarding the software, have you worked out how the greyscale setting works? I’ve tried to engrave a logo that is half dark and half light, but it just seems to all look the same. I’m trying on slate and using the stone settings which are generally great apart from the greyscale. Thanks
I have played with it some but not a lot. I actually have a picture i want to engrave but need to learn it a bit more myself. Perhaps that will be my next video, engraving a photo. In your case, perhaps make a test of 4-5 small images in a row. Adjust the grayscale of them individually light to dark, left to right and see what the results are. Make sure you make a note of what each setting is. I think that is how i plan on approaching it. Plus, the latest version of XCS has some additional "filters" that also affect the engraving. I need to learn that part as well. So much to do, so little time...
Thank you for the videos, do you know if there is a way to turn off the snap to? I am trying to place patterns and circles and the snap to won't let me do fine movements when I am to close to another object.
Sorry, they do not offer a way to turn off snapping in XCS yet. The only way around it now is to get it close then manually edit the numbers under the X/Y coordinates.
Yes, imported images are engrave only. It's my understanding that the lines need to be vector lines for it to cut. I haven't fully learned how to do it but there are image editing programs that help make that happen. The software you see here has a vector tool but drawing with it is tough. Although they are working on improving it all the time.
Hello, I used my M1 for the first time and when I put my design in the middle of the item that shows on the camera of the M1 when it did the engrave it was pass the very top of the item. I have to adjust my design at the very bottom of the item.
The camera is great at getting you close however you need to combine the camera with the framing feature to make sure it will engrave/cut where you need it to. If you watch more of my videos I show this feature more. I did not know too much about it getting started. I know the hammer video shows the framing feature.
Great videos, thank you so much. I just got mine yesterday. First time using a machine like this. But it will not open my files. What type of files do you use? PNG? thank you!!
Are you going to be designing in Design Space, then just uploading here or do you feel this has enough functionality to do what you need? I'm a Circut Maker addict, so that's what I'm most comfortable in
That's a great question. My wife and I both love Design Space as well. I think it all depends on how much they advance in the software for this product. Right now it still has a ways to go especially with the font selection and some of the minor inconveniences of navigating around and performing simple tasks. I haven't tried importing an image and cleaning it up like in design space. So I can't comment on that yet either. I will give that a shot soon.
HI buudy i found your channel as i was searching for a laser cutter /engraver and you got a sub from me !! great content easy to understand and follow mine is ordered and coming soon cheers for all your great content and learning journey on this looking forward to the next one ,take care stay safe buddy from Clive in the UK.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Hi buddy its here!! im so excited did you download and make the wooden ruler for use with the M1 i cant seem to find it anywhere ,take care happy making buddy .
I did. You need it for doing odd shapes that can't be measured by the M1. You can find it here: support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
@@MonkeyWoodworks Hi buddy its Clive again can i cut some 5mm plywood on my M1 is it east enough i am guessing its just in the user defined setting as i have quite a bit in my workshop also do you know anything about the extract function in the menu as there does not seem to be much info on this sorry to bother you with all these questions hope you dont mind , take care stay safe.
I used my M1 today. So far I still use it. It does not get as much attention as it has in the past now that I have a P2 however some things I still prefer to do on my M1. (Tumblers, engraving cork, and smaller pieces such as earrings) It really depends on what your goal is. The M1 is capable of many things but if you want to focus on acrylic, it does not even come close to the new P2.
Unfortunately not yet. They are constantly improving the software but this feature is not yet available. It has been suggested as one of the improvements to the software team.
They are working on resolving this. They have a team of experienced LB users working with xTool to get this going. However, I do not have an ETA of when this is supposed to be resolved.
@@MonkeyWoodworks The last thing I heard about it, via comments on fora a few weeks ago, was this: from Xtool, buy a d1 pro. From Lightburn, ‘to busy with other stuff’. They suggested a workaround via gcode or such but that was way to much hassle. So, I wouldn’t get my hopes up. I bet that IF they fix it, it will be in a new M1 model. I will probably go with a custom setup camera and lightburn on the d1 pro. The cutting is not that important to me.
Thank you so much for all the videos!
Hopefully you find them useful!
Thanks for the uploads, I've watched every part of this series as I'm waiting for my M1. I really like how you are showing every part of the process in pieces and not trying to give out too much info. So far you've shown enough for me to figure this out and get working on it. Much appreciated and please continue to make these videos.
Thanks for the kind words.
Same here, I am awaiting my M1 and happy I can find information to prepare my self for when it arrives
Thank you so much for posting!
Thank you, I needed someone to explain the software in a way that I can understand. There are lots of learning curves here, but I should be producing items by the end of the month. 🥰
You are welcome! BTW, they have already made improvements to the software since I last made this video. It is definitely getting better but could still use some more improvement (which they are working on)
@@MonkeyWoodworks Have you done anything with the laser calibration, I cannot get it to cut all the way through. Some parts are and some parts are not?
I have not. What i have found is that material can have different densities in it. Sometimes it cuts, other times it leaves a little material left over. The only way around that is to throw more power at it, slow down the cut speed, or add another pass or two. Sometimes it's a combination of the three. Unfortunately its trial and error. For the pieces that do not completely cut all the way, i keep an x-acto knife handy to finish the cut from the backside.
The explanations in this video really helped me! Great job!
Glad it helped!
FYI: "Substract at overlap" makes a hole only where the shapes overlap, unlike regular substract which removes the top shape and overlap. This is better visible in engrave mode and mostly useful for that.
Let's say you want to engrave a wide heart shaped outline around a name. Create two heart shapes like you did for your hearts, but set them both to "engrave". Place the smaller one in the front, select both and use "substract at overlap" and instead of a big solid heart you will have just the outline. Now just add the name in the middle.
The cookie cutter example was a great explanation. Once I set them to engrave, it made sense. Thank you for the response and explanation!
@@MonkeyWoodworks I removed it because both "substract" options are cookie cutters so it's not what makes them different, the difference is that "substract" removes the whole frontmost shape including where it overlaps the other one, and "substract at overlap" removes only the part where the two shapes overlap. For the mathematically minded, "unite" is OR, ""substract" is NOT, "unite at overlap" is AND, and "substract at overlap" is XOR.
BTW in "circular grid" the X and Y are the centre of the circle on which your shapes will be laid out. It defaults to the centre of your shape. Diameter of the circle is distance from [X, Y] to centre of your shape. 0° is straight up from [X, Y] and goes clockwise.
Thanks forvthevreview. it really looks like illustrator. Super simple yet powerful soft. Can’t wait to get my machine. Best wishes.
Thanks for the kind word and yes, It's really easy to use. They came out with another software update yesterday. Now you can use system fonts! Plus bug fixes as well.
@@MonkeyWoodworks My machine is on its way somewhere in Germany...hope to get it soon ;)
Thank you so much! Day 1 for me & my m1 and I'm do glad to have found you, super helpful!
Awesome! Make sure you check out all my videos. As I progress through them I added more tips and tricks as I learn them. Also don't forget to check the description of any of my videos for a link to the engraving settings that I have been using.
Thank you so much for these videos! I received my M1 the other day and your channel has been so helpful!! I haven’t been brave enough to actually test it out yet…but I know your tips will come in really handy!
Awesome! Feel free to reach out anytime.
Excellent trading today. Thank you.
Awesome tutorial sir! Do you know if there is a way to import custom fonts for the text? Thanks again!!
Actually, the latest update allows you to use system fonts of your computer. So if your custom font is availableon your computer, you can use it in the M1 software I believe.
I learn so much from your videos. THANK YOU!
Would you consider selling your “cheat sheet “
Thanks
Opal
You are welcome!
Sell it? I do not follow you on that. It is already free for everyone to access.
wish you would show your final products thanks for the video!
Hey there. I try to always show the results of a project I make in my videos. I believe there may be 1 or 2 videos where there is no final product because the videos are about a particular technique or task. Other than that, I try to always show the final result.
Love it! I cant wait to make this in spanish!! Thank you so much
That will be so helpful!
So helpful!!! Thank you so much!!
Glad it helped!
10:23 The zooming by Ctrl-MouseWheel uses the location of the mouse as the point of reference which stays put when zooming in or out. This may cause the effect you experienced.
Yea, Sketchup bites me all the time with this lol. I wanted to use the opportunity to show others what to do when this happens.
great video!!
Thank you so much!
Thank you for the video. You showed a lot of tricks that I haven't found yet with the software. Have you tried engraving glass tiles yet with the M1? The clear glass with the backs painted white. If you do, can you share the settings? I have been trying this technique, but it is barely showing through. It looks good from the back, but through the glass it's really faded. Thank you!
I have not but I'll see what I can find out.
Another great video. I tend to go straight to your videos when I’m trying something new on my M1. One question regarding the software, have you worked out how the greyscale setting works? I’ve tried to engrave a logo that is half dark and half light, but it just seems to all look the same. I’m trying on slate and using the stone settings which are generally great apart from the greyscale.
Thanks
I have played with it some but not a lot. I actually have a picture i want to engrave but need to learn it a bit more myself. Perhaps that will be my next video, engraving a photo. In your case, perhaps make a test of 4-5 small images in a row. Adjust the grayscale of them individually light to dark, left to right and see what the results are. Make sure you make a note of what each setting is. I think that is how i plan on approaching it. Plus, the latest version of XCS has some additional "filters" that also affect the engraving. I need to learn that part as well. So much to do, so little time...
Thank you for the videos, do you know if there is a way to turn off the snap to? I am trying to place patterns and circles and the snap to won't let me do fine movements when I am to close to another object.
Sorry, they do not offer a way to turn off snapping in XCS yet. The only way around it now is to get it close then manually edit the numbers under the X/Y coordinates.
Your tutorials have been super helpful, I really enjoy creating things with my M1, have you been able to use Lightburn with the M1?
Unfortunately no. It's not compatible with the M1 yet.
@@MonkeyWoodworks Thanks, can't wait for that to happen.
@@tonywheatley7910 same here!
Michael: I see that when you select your bunny the mode displays as "Engrave." How do you cut the bunny shape?
Yes, imported images are engrave only. It's my understanding that the lines need to be vector lines for it to cut. I haven't fully learned how to do it but there are image editing programs that help make that happen. The software you see here has a vector tool but drawing with it is tough. Although they are working on improving it all the time.
P.S.: I've enjoyed your M1 video series. I hope you will do more.
Hello, I used my M1 for the first time and when I put my design in the middle of the item that shows on the camera of the M1 when it did the engrave it was pass the very top of the item. I have to adjust my design at the very bottom of the item.
The camera is great at getting you close however you need to combine the camera with the framing feature to make sure it will engrave/cut where you need it to. If you watch more of my videos I show this feature more. I did not know too much about it getting started. I know the hammer video shows the framing feature.
Great videos, thank you so much. I just got mine yesterday. First time using a machine like this. But it will not open my files. What type of files do you use? PNG? thank you!!
To bring in your own images, you need to use the IMPORT button. Keep in mind, images will be set to ENGRAVE only.
Can you please make leather engraving video
I will. I need to source some leather and come up with a project to use it on.
Are you going to be designing in Design Space, then just uploading here or do you feel this has enough functionality to do what you need? I'm a Circut Maker addict, so that's what I'm most comfortable in
That's a great question. My wife and I both love Design Space as well. I think it all depends on how much they advance in the software for this product. Right now it still has a ways to go especially with the font selection and some of the minor inconveniences of navigating around and performing simple tasks. I haven't tried importing an image and cleaning it up like in design space. So I can't comment on that yet either. I will give that a shot soon.
HI buudy i found your channel as i was searching for a laser cutter /engraver and you got a sub from me !! great content easy to understand and follow mine is ordered and coming soon cheers for all your great content and learning journey on this looking forward to the next one ,take care stay safe buddy from Clive in the UK.
Thank you so much for the sub and the kind words. Good luck with your laser!
@@MonkeyWoodworks Hi buddy its here!! im so excited did you download and make the wooden ruler for use with the M1 i cant seem to find it anywhere ,take care happy making buddy .
I did. You need it for doing odd shapes that can't be measured by the M1. You can find it here: support.xtool.com/hc/en-us/articles/4798482462231-xTool-M1-Manual-Focusing-Tutorial-in-Laser-Cylindrical-Mode
@@MonkeyWoodworks Good morning from the uk cheers buddy i will have a go sometime today take care and thanks again stay safe .
@@MonkeyWoodworks Hi buddy its Clive again can i cut some 5mm plywood on my M1 is it east enough i am guessing its just in the user defined setting as i have quite a bit in my workshop also do you know anything about the extract function in the menu as there does not seem to be much info on this sorry to bother you with all these questions hope you dont mind ,
take care stay safe.
So should I order one now. What is your opinion on this machine today?
I used my M1 today. So far I still use it. It does not get as much attention as it has in the past now that I have a P2 however some things I still prefer to do on my M1. (Tumblers, engraving cork, and smaller pieces such as earrings) It really depends on what your goal is. The M1 is capable of many things but if you want to focus on acrylic, it does not even come close to the new P2.
Thank you so kindly for your answer. I will check out your videos on the P2.
Is there a way to group items together in the m1 software?
Unfortunately not yet. They are constantly improving the software but this feature is not yet available. It has been suggested as one of the improvements to the software team.
Is there an app for this machine?
Not yet. They claim it will have one however no eta yet.
@@MonkeyWoodworks been looking for it lol as says in instruction book scan for app 🤣
Yea I know haha.. They even have pics of the software logo on tablets and phones. I'm guessing they will get there eventually.
@@MonkeyWoodworks hope so as that would be awesome
No lightburn = no m1 for me
They are working on resolving this. They have a team of experienced LB users working with xTool to get this going. However, I do not have an ETA of when this is supposed to be resolved.
@@MonkeyWoodworks The last thing I heard about it, via comments on fora a few weeks ago, was this: from Xtool, buy a d1 pro. From Lightburn, ‘to busy with other stuff’. They suggested a workaround via gcode or such but that was way to much hassle.
So, I wouldn’t get my hopes up. I bet that IF they fix it, it will be in a new M1 model.
I will probably go with a custom setup camera and lightburn on the d1 pro. The cutting is not that important to me.
The added rails they have for the D1 now gives it a huge size advantage. Plus it has a 20watt diode and air assist.
@@MonkeyWoodworks indeed. Although I will not be buying the 20w. I do not really need. Nice to have, but the price difference is humongous.