Does size really matter? Will a 13.7" barrel really be that much shorter than a 16" barrel after pinning and welding it? 13.7" AR build overview: • 13.7" Build: Is it per...
@@peachfuds actually it is to penetrate a Russian helmet with 62 grn green tip at 600 yards...in order to achieve that you need an m16.... with a 20 inch barrel.... the M4 cannot achieve that hit.
@Trap Lord Ghost are you gonna run a combat load of just black tips? Aim for the soft parts. A plate is only so good at coverage. Remember, a level 4 plate is rated to stop 4, count em, 4 black tip 30-06. An intermediate cartridge has no chance either way.
The 13.7-14.5 seems to be the perfect balance of compact and good velocity. Probably will go with a pistol build as i am not a fan of pin and weld for the muzzle device.
It's fine if you have a muzzle device you're completely happy with. I just made sure mine mounted up to my suppressor and called it a day. I shoot suppressed 99.999 percent of the ti e anyway so muzzle devices dont really mean much to me besides being a qd for my can.
Just finished my first build using a 16 inch barrel and I'm doing a pinned 14.5 in barrel right now and I was also surprised that it seems to make such a big difference. Good video.
I did some research on the 13.7" vs 14.5" barrel length debate A 13.7" with a 2.866" SOLGW NOX will have a total barrel length of 16.566" A 14.5" with a 2.125" BCM MOD1 will have a total barrel length of 16.625" That's a difference of only .059" Fifty-Nine Thousandths of an Inch That's a reduction of only 1.498 Millimeters As we all know by Decreasing the barrel length on a 5.56 rifle, we are Increasing the Blast and Flash while decreasing the projectile velocity which has a detrimental effect on the ballistic performance of rounds that require fragmentation to impart their energy. I would rather keep the .8 inches of barrel to help combat these negative effects while only increasing the overall length by little more than a millimeter. The military spent years of research and millions of dollars to arrives at their selection of the 14.5" as the US Standard Issue M4 platform. The 13.7" to me seems to be a solution looking for a problem, but its operator as fug and power to you brothers for running one. Stay Violent.
Exactly what you said 🙃👍! I’ll keep the extra barrel length, and if I want to go shorter, it’s AR-pistol time between 10.25-11.5” so it can use a folder and fit in a normal-sized backpack! The 13.7 permanently pinned is still as long as the 14.5” permanently pinned lol.
I personally see this debate as muzzle device dependent. If I’m running a longer device, such as a Surefire Warcomp, 13.7”. If I’m running a smaller one such as an A2 birdcage, 14.5”.
@@thewisconsingunchannel1243 totally agree, the entire point of the 13.7 was for people running the longer flash hider that are qd mounts for suppressors .
The military reduced barrel size to 14.5 because that was he max they could go and still run a bayonet. Which, wtf, in modern warfare who TF is using bayos?
well if you put a 2.866" SOLGW NOX on a 16.1" barrel you end up with a total length of almost 19". And the loss of power is not substantial enough to diminish the added manouverability and weightsaving. Also you have to factor in that you have the weight closer to your body. For example carrying a 30 pound dumbell with an outstretched arm is way harder than carrying it next to your chest. So a smaller gun will be more manageable in that regard.
12.5 Car length and 13.7 Mid length are my favorite. SOLGW Nox is one of the best Devices to pin and weld on 13.7. You can get Dead Air Keymo adapter and use Dead Air , YHM or any other can that matches the thread pitch of the Keymo adapter. I'm gonna be using Keymo with YHM Turbo K on my 13.7
@@Thisthat1234 Yeah I use Keymo adapter on my 13.7 and T2 TURBO K. I use Kurz KIT on my 12.5. I was going to try out the Q Plan devices to see if those are good or not but havent tried one yet or seen one
@@seanwhite304 so far I really like both the Turbo T2 and the keymo system. I’ve ran it HARD a solid 4 times that I was concerned it wouldn’t come off and not once did I not.
My 13.7” is built as a lightweight upper. It balances on the front edge of the magwell with a Holosun red dot/3x magnifier, BA lightweight profile (don’t think it’s pencil compared to my dad’s build that has one), SOLGW NOX (3 prong) p&w, Valhalla Tac Baldr ODS 18350 w/ PLH-V2, Magpul STR stock, Aero FA upper, 2A lightweight BCG, FACTR barricade/finger stop & hand stop on a PSA abbreviated picatinny MLok rail, neomag sling keeper, Radion Talon & Raptor, PSA Turkey Day lower w/ Elfmann trigger and a Tier 1 Citizen 2 point bungee sling. My 16” gun is an LWRCi M6IC DI with Surefire compatible Atibal illumination 18650 body & A2 head connected to a dual tail cap & pressure pad, Atibal 1-10x30 FFP, SOLGW NOX9, MBUIS LWRCi furniture and Ferro Concepts Slingster sling. Because LWRCi is based in Maryland they have to use a heavy profile barrel so that 2.7” difference is really drastic between the two profiles and rails even though the LWRC rail is 13” and my LW PSA is 14.5”. I am thinking that I am going to replace my Aero upper with my non FA SanTan LW set and build that out so I can put my Turkey 🦃lower back under my 16” 300BO BCM upper again. Contemplating selling my LWRCi, but it hold some sentimental value as it was a birthday present from Dad in 2018 and what started me down this 🐇 🕳 of pew pew 2A. Mahalo for reading my Ted Talk
I ran a Primary Arms 5x Micro prism and offset red dot instead of an LPVO on a Ruger SFAR. Very close usage comparing to a 1-6 LPVO. But you can shave off a pound. Very happy with the setup and happy I saved the weight. I do have a video on it if curious.
If you were to go back and redo this build, would you have gone with the sons of liberty gun works nox muzzle as opposed to the surefire warcomp? The solgw nox is made to bring the overall length exactly to 16 inches without having to use shims/spacers.
For example, my lite ADM is 6.9lbs, with accessories. Castle knut, handguard, barrel, optic, lower, stock, light. All have to be aligned with weight savings. Ounces = pounds & pounds = Pain.
It feels longer because it IS longer. 13.7" (or 13.9" with a shorter MD) with a MD included, 16", not including a MD... So overall, it's 18"+. The 13.7" is really the best compromise with compactness, legality and ballistics.
I actually disagree. I built a 13.7 almost identical to the one in this video. 13.7” Rosco purebred mid length barrel, Aero upper/lower, Midwest handguard. My opinion is that what you are going to put on the muzzle is what makes all the difference. If you want to rock an A2 birdcage, then just roll with the 16”. You’ll get a good lil bit more velocity, and the muzzle device isn’t going to add much length. If you’re specifically going to put a Surefire or a Dead Air (keymo) suppressor then that’s the only time I’d say sure rock the 13.7. If you want something more compact you can get a 14.5, and it looks like the industry is shifting over to 13.9” barrels bc of how annoying it is to find a muzzle device that will get a 13.7” barrel to 16”. So I guess I’ll have to check out the 13.9” barrels coming out and maybe I’ll change my mind, but for now, I think 14.5” is the way to go if you want to pin & weld. I should be getting my tax stamp in the near(ish) future, and I’ve got this 13.7” gun that’s P&W and I don’t think rugged has a muzzle device that is long enough to bring it to 16”, but that’s what my 12.3” gun is for anyway 😎.
Good point. 13.7" is for shortest non-NFA rifle(stock+VFG is better than brace), light, good balance, easy to handle w/ suppressor, better ballistic and suppression than anything shorter.
Love the 13.7 . 8 lbs unloaded seems kinda heavy . Why not go with a smaller lighter flash light ? I understand they’re more expensive but what is a few hundred dollars more at this point ? Just curious if I’m missing something
Yeah.. Im looking at the Odin mini which isn’t all that expensive, $130: 1250 lumens, quick detach, mlock mount, magnetic charger, pressure switch and mount, rave reviews..
For years I ran a carbine length gas system on a pinned 14.5 inch barrel.We did that because that’s what was available.Then armalite came out with a lot of mid length rifles..I have tried them..While the barrel length was 16 inches ,My carbine gas system with a 14.5 pinned flash hider just feels lighter and smaller..The weight-length difference is small.So I agree it really is phycological..However I feel it non the less..
I'm a bit hesitant at the moment. I have a 16" barrel (18" including flashider). I want to get a suppressor that is about 4.2" long. 20" length seems too much for a general purpose rifle, so I'm thinking of shortening it to 13.7". The reason for the suppressor is also a smaller flash, which, however, becomes larger by shortening the barrel. This would make the total length with suppressor the same as the current configuration - 18". I don't know if this length will be effective enough when shooting, for example, even at 400m. It should also be added that in our country there are no meaningless barrel length restrictions - so all the US information seems to me to be irrelevantly distorted around the 16" dimension. What do you think?
Really been looking hard at a 11.5” pistol but with yesterday’s news, I’m not sure if I should still go that route or just step up to the rifle classification. I’d rather have that manuverability. What are your thoughts?
The ATF makes it hard to do anything within our constitutional rights. With that being said, mass noncompliance is the answer. I say do what you feel is within your rights as a free American Citizen. After all, the second amendment is meant to protect us from tyrannical organizations like the ATF🤷🏻♂️ that’s my thoughts tho
@@GarrettSuzak they can try, once you have people that experienced that freedom at one point, I don’t think they will be able to ban it. Easier to ban the product rather than the memory of said items.
as long as it goes through and isn't making contact and the rod isn't just bending. You can also take the upper off, look down the barrel from the breach end and you should be able to see light.@@saucyscrambler8710
@@markbrown4597 I just used a dremel to cut the railing off. I only tried with the surefire RC 2 but I’d think a lot of different cans would have the same problem.
So I wanted to basically build a "poor man's" Sig Spear Lt since the Lt is hard to get and stupid expensive. I don't really consider it a cheap rifle though as most of the parts are going to be a mix of premium, better than mil spec, and mil spec at the very least. I was going to go for a 16" barrel, but I wanted this rifle to be effective in tight spaces while having reasonable performance at 300 meters at least. I am in a bit of a tough spot. The upper I am going with is Foxtrot Mike 13.9 upper. It is basically 14 inches, but I wish that it were a 14.5 like the M4 I was issued. I don't like losing velocity, but I do also plan on running a suppressor on this rifle. The Foxtrot Mike upper only has 16" or 13.9". If I do run the can I want with the 13.9, the barrel length will be roughly equivalent to an 18" barrel. I can definitely work with that length. But I really wish that they offered a 14.5 option. I know that people say you can go as low as 11.5" and still get good performance. But from the data I have seen, I really don't like going too short. Still, the Foxtrot Upper has 95% of all the features I want in an upper. I also liked the BRN-180, but I don't like it's take down process or the reciprocating charging handle on the right side. I wish they would just make a left side charging version. I love AR15 rifles, but I feel like some of their features are outdated compared to what is available now. I am mostly okay with 13.9, but I still hope Foxtrot Mike decides to get a 14.5 option.
If it’s already pinned then it will not move go to your FFL where the suppressor is and check it with a rod .... if it clears your end cap then your good .... no sense in redoing it without checking
I have two Uintah upr10 uppers with 13 inch barrels and p&w muzzle devices. One is a 243 the other is a 7mm-08 yes I know it took away from the external ballistics but for me it made for a little more of a compact rifle when I go hunting in New Mexico and West Texas and It has t stopped me from harvesting any game.
Would be good to weigh both rifles without the light and offset and anything that is different than the 16" rifle. I'd guess that the 13.9 would weight less and be almost as accurate or even as accurate. Mobility is the key, 2 inches of less rifle makes it easier to push it around and get on target easily.
How much easier? Nothing is free and is loss of 2 inches worth the >$200 it will cost you for the new 13.9” build when you could just get a pistol or even a tax stamp and then you can have your 10.5” - 12.5” and be noticeably shorter than the 13.9” + brake (16.1-16.5”)
@@robertdole5391 If you are talking about the difference between a new rifle versus one you already have in hand then I'd say go with what's in hand and what you plan to do with the rifle. Given the choice of a fresh build for an all around rifle, I'd go 13.9/13.7 and avoid the tax stamp. The ballistics are very close at those barrel lengths and if this was my only rifle I'd rather have something I can go out to 200+ yards with and still use for home defense and have maneuverability of a shorter barrel. All depends on your budget and use at the end of the day IMO
Well the overall length of an standard ar15 is 16in for the barrel the A2 flash hider adds 2 extra inches for an over all length of 18" so 4in right there. 16in barrel plus the A2 flashhider.
I just purchased a 13.7” Sons of liberty barrel yesterday. It’s not .223 wylde. How do you feel about the difference in barrels? 5.56 barrel vs the .223 - I barely purchase .223 and have several other ARs that are .223 wylde. I think my 13.7 is going to be a heavy duty serious weapon that I’m going to go hard on… kinda why I went with the 5.56 barrel. Are you using the VOLTR A5 buffer? I heard those combined make thee absolute smoothest shooting rifle.
I am struggling so hard with what to do with my newest build. It's a super lightweight V Seven I built as my dream rifle. I have an Energetic Armament Arx on the way (I know pew science hates the can, good for him) because it was the lightest can I could find to suit my build I wanted to hit 5.5 lbs without a magazine but everything else. The problem is what to do with my upper. I bought a 10.3" Smoke Composites CF handguard and a SOLGW Nox for a keymo mount. Was going to have my barrel cut to 13.7 and pin/weld. But part of me is thinking to just SBR it and get a Faxon gunner 12.5" and use a Jmac customs brake as my muzzle device. Going that route would save me 6 ounces on the barrel, 1.5 ounces on the muzzle device, and 4.5 ounces on the keymo not being there. That's a shitload of weight off the end of the barrel. But then I have to ask for permission just to leave the state with it. I could get a 16" Faxon and have it cut to 13.7" and pin/weld that, which would still save 6 ounces off the barrel at least. Or 16" Faxon with the jmac brake and save 4.5 ounces on barrel, 1.5 on MD, and 4.5 on keymo adapter. But I think a 16" barrel with a 6" suppressor using a 10.3" handguard might look stupid? What the f do I do? What would you do? I almost feel like building a second AR and doing one of each - SBR and 13.7 p/w and just have one at my target weight and the other very light but a bit heavier.
its not about size or comfort, right tool for the right job, you should be more concerned about ballistics and what your average engagement distances are then build your rifle around those factors. if you are shooting in an urban environment then fast and light is what you want. if you are out in the country you probably want something else, same if your in the mountains. never pin and weld, it is cheaper to just submit the form one online to the atf.
My big reason I like my 13.7 build is I like running a slightly shorter rail. With a 16 inch barrel I don’t like running a 15 inch rail or having the barrel stick out.
Well now I don’t feel so bad for having a 14.5 sbr lol. It’s 32 7/8” long with stock in the same spot. More barrel and performance, less length! Guess it wasn’t a total waste of $200 😂
Working on my first 13.7 now. Just mocking it up makes me giggle like a school girl. Can't decide if I want to bed the barrel with Loctite 609 or not. Extension fits very loose into upper and I'm not used to that.
If your planning on a "rifle" build with the 13.7" picture isn't sufficient to permanently attach the muzzle device. Is it likely to ever get checked no.. but I'd recommend against chancing your right to firearms. Pin and weld. Barrels are cheaper than court cost.
direct thread suppressors are better..simpler,cheaper,lighter KISS Consider a 12.5 or 13.7 ar pistol with direct threaded suppressor or a 16" with a Witt machine mini suppressor...sometimes the "fixes to a problem" modern solutions are trying to find a problem to fix.
roscoe thicc modified government profile it is terrible choice for weight BA hanson or faxon would clap any 16" barrel weight wise even 16" pencil barrel. Sig long prong flash hider is lighter than surefire/be meyer/JP prong FH.
You don't want a pencil barrel on a duty rifle b/c it's gonna heat up quick and start throwing rounds in prolonged strings of fire. But agreed, their are lighted MD's but I plan on running a rc2 thus why I went with the heavier SF MD.
@@themosindude7925 Duty rifle? Not patrol type build where you realistic expect to face only one or two threat at time and easily put them down with one or two shot each?
what happens when you patrol into 1 -2 guys, then their buddies come running once they hear gun shots? Just thoughts. Plus the possibility of parts not being available so you want you parts to be able to last as long as possible. @@TrollinCrazyRussian
The "full ballistic potential" of 5.56 isn't at 16". It was designed for a 20" barrel.
Uh huh 👍
With a 55gr projectile.... times have changed
@@peachfuds actually it is to penetrate a Russian helmet with 62 grn green tip at 600 yards...in order to achieve that you need an m16.... with a 20 inch barrel.... the M4 cannot achieve that hit.
@Trap Lord Ghost remember kids, 20" barrels with m193 makes training ammo into battlefield ammo.
Till next time
@Trap Lord Ghost are you gonna run a combat load of just black tips? Aim for the soft parts. A plate is only so good at coverage.
Remember, a level 4 plate is rated to stop 4, count em, 4 black tip 30-06. An intermediate cartridge has no chance either way.
The 13.7-14.5 seems to be the perfect balance of compact and good velocity. Probably will go with a pistol build as i am not a fan of pin and weld for the muzzle device.
Silver solder is a removable option that constitutes as a “permanent attachment method” by the ATF.
Agree agree and agree
@@thewisconsingunchannel1243 yeah but don't you have to worry about the heat treatment?
It's fine if you have a muzzle device you're completely happy with. I just made sure mine mounted up to my suppressor and called it a day. I shoot suppressed 99.999 percent of the ti e anyway so muzzle devices dont really mean much to me besides being a qd for my can.
Yessir.
Just finished my first build using a 16 inch barrel and I'm doing a pinned 14.5 in barrel right now and I was also surprised that it seems to make such a big difference. Good video.
Thanks man! Yeah I was glad to see it made a sizable difference
I did a 14.5 Pistol build the only difference is it's a Spikes Tactical .308 Kit.
I did some research on the 13.7" vs 14.5" barrel length debate
A 13.7" with a 2.866" SOLGW NOX will have a total barrel length of 16.566"
A 14.5" with a 2.125" BCM MOD1 will have a total barrel length of 16.625"
That's a difference of only .059" Fifty-Nine Thousandths of an Inch
That's a reduction of only 1.498 Millimeters
As we all know by Decreasing the barrel length on a 5.56 rifle, we are Increasing the Blast and Flash while decreasing the projectile velocity which has a detrimental effect on the ballistic performance of rounds that require fragmentation to impart their energy. I would rather keep the .8 inches of barrel to help combat these negative effects while only increasing the overall length by little more than a millimeter. The military spent years of research and millions of dollars to arrives at their selection of the 14.5" as the US Standard Issue M4 platform. The 13.7" to me seems to be a solution looking for a problem, but its operator as fug and power to you brothers for running one. Stay Violent.
Exactly what you said 🙃👍! I’ll keep the extra barrel length, and if I want to go shorter, it’s AR-pistol time between 10.25-11.5” so it can use a folder and fit in a normal-sized backpack! The 13.7 permanently pinned is still as long as the 14.5” permanently pinned lol.
I personally see this debate as muzzle device dependent. If I’m running a longer device, such as a Surefire Warcomp, 13.7”. If I’m running a smaller one such as an A2 birdcage, 14.5”.
@@thewisconsingunchannel1243 totally agree, the entire point of the 13.7 was for people running the longer flash hider that are qd mounts for suppressors .
The military reduced barrel size to 14.5 because that was he max they could go and still run a bayonet. Which, wtf, in modern warfare who TF is using bayos?
well if you put a 2.866" SOLGW NOX on a 16.1" barrel you end up with a total length of almost 19". And the loss of power is not substantial enough to diminish the added manouverability and weightsaving. Also you have to factor in that you have the weight closer to your body. For example carrying a 30 pound dumbell with an outstretched arm is way harder than carrying it next to your chest. So a smaller gun will be more manageable in that regard.
12.5 Car length and 13.7 Mid length are my favorite.
SOLGW Nox is one of the best Devices to pin and weld on 13.7. You can get Dead Air Keymo adapter and use Dead Air , YHM or any other can that matches the thread pitch of the Keymo adapter. I'm gonna be using Keymo with YHM Turbo K on my 13.7
My aero 11.5 build is currently running a YHM Turbo t2 using a lantac dragon keymo to attach.
@@Thisthat1234 Yeah I use Keymo adapter on my 13.7 and T2 TURBO K. I use Kurz KIT on my 12.5. I was going to try out the Q Plan devices to see if those are good or not but havent tried one yet or seen one
@@seanwhite304 so far I really like both the Turbo T2 and the keymo system. I’ve ran it HARD a solid 4 times that I was concerned it wouldn’t come off and not once did I not.
@@Thisthat1234 I have quite a few rounds through my T2 TURBO K. Next Can I wanna try is OSS 556K or SF SOCOM MINI II..
My 13.7” is built as a lightweight upper. It balances on the front edge of the magwell with a Holosun red dot/3x magnifier, BA lightweight profile (don’t think it’s pencil compared to my dad’s build that has one), SOLGW NOX (3 prong) p&w, Valhalla Tac Baldr ODS 18350 w/ PLH-V2, Magpul STR stock, Aero FA upper, 2A lightweight BCG, FACTR barricade/finger stop & hand stop on a PSA abbreviated picatinny MLok rail, neomag sling keeper, Radion Talon & Raptor, PSA Turkey Day lower w/ Elfmann trigger and a Tier 1 Citizen 2 point bungee sling.
My 16” gun is an LWRCi M6IC DI with Surefire compatible Atibal illumination 18650 body & A2 head connected to a dual tail cap & pressure pad, Atibal 1-10x30 FFP, SOLGW NOX9, MBUIS LWRCi furniture and Ferro Concepts Slingster sling.
Because LWRCi is based in Maryland they have to use a heavy profile barrel so that 2.7” difference is really drastic between the two profiles and rails even though the LWRC rail is 13” and my LW PSA is 14.5”. I am thinking that I am going to replace my Aero upper with my non FA SanTan LW set and build that out so I can put my Turkey 🦃lower back under my 16” 300BO BCM upper again.
Contemplating selling my LWRCi, but it hold some sentimental value as it was a birthday present from Dad in 2018 and what started me down this 🐇 🕳 of pew pew 2A.
Mahalo for reading my Ted Talk
Did you need to use shims to get to the 16" legal length on that 13.7 p&w?
I ran a Primary Arms 5x Micro prism and offset red dot instead of an LPVO on a Ruger SFAR. Very close usage comparing to a 1-6 LPVO. But you can shave off a pound. Very happy with the setup and happy I saved the weight. I do have a video on it if curious.
Awesome rigs! 13.7-14.5” are the sweet spot for me. I’ve got a similar 13.7” coming right now with a FDE MCMR but it’s got a dead air NOX P&W
If you were to go back and redo this build, would you have gone with the sons of liberty gun works nox muzzle as opposed to the surefire warcomp? The solgw nox is made to bring the overall length exactly to 16 inches without having to use shims/spacers.
I don’t know why but my 14.5 feels significantly shorter than my 16 when actually using it.
For example, my lite ADM is 6.9lbs, with accessories. Castle knut, handguard, barrel, optic, lower, stock, light. All have to be aligned with weight savings. Ounces = pounds & pounds = Pain.
14.5” pinned and welded... Best of both worlds.
Not a bad move! I had a 14.5 p&w and it was pretty great but I wanted to see the 13.7 hype for myself haha
@@themosindude7925which one do you like more? What are your thoughts between the two?
I like a 13.7 or 14.5" P&W rifle but I keep mine slim and sleek with only a micro red dot, sling and scout light.
I might slim it down, haven't decided yet
It feels longer because it IS longer. 13.7" (or 13.9" with a shorter MD) with a MD included, 16", not including a MD... So overall, it's 18"+. The 13.7" is really the best compromise with compactness, legality and ballistics.
Nice build! Yep crush washer and suppressors are a no-no! Now if it is a 30 Cal can you would probably be fine.
I will probably just play it safe and redo it with shims. That way I will know for certain!
@@themosindude7925 good plan
I actually disagree. I built a 13.7 almost identical to the one in this video. 13.7” Rosco purebred mid length barrel, Aero upper/lower, Midwest handguard. My opinion is that what you are going to put on the muzzle is what makes all the difference. If you want to rock an A2 birdcage, then just roll with the 16”. You’ll get a good lil bit more velocity, and the muzzle device isn’t going to add much length. If you’re specifically going to put a Surefire or a Dead Air (keymo) suppressor then that’s the only time I’d say sure rock the 13.7. If you want something more compact you can get a 14.5, and it looks like the industry is shifting over to 13.9” barrels bc of how annoying it is to find a muzzle device that will get a 13.7” barrel to 16”. So I guess I’ll have to check out the 13.9” barrels coming out and maybe I’ll change my mind, but for now, I think 14.5” is the way to go if you want to pin & weld. I should be getting my tax stamp in the near(ish) future, and I’ve got this 13.7” gun that’s P&W and I don’t think rugged has a muzzle device that is long enough to bring it to 16”, but that’s what my 12.3” gun is for anyway 😎.
Good point.
13.7" is for shortest non-NFA rifle(stock+VFG is better than brace), light, good balance, easy to handle w/ suppressor, better ballistic and suppression than anything shorter.
Love the 13.7 . 8 lbs unloaded seems kinda heavy . Why not go with a smaller lighter flash light ? I understand they’re more expensive but what is a few hundred dollars more at this point ? Just curious if I’m missing something
Yeah.. Im looking at the Odin mini which isn’t all that expensive, $130: 1250 lumens, quick detach, mlock mount, magnetic charger, pressure switch and mount, rave reviews..
For years I ran a carbine length gas system on a pinned 14.5 inch barrel.We did that because that’s what was available.Then armalite came out with a lot of mid length rifles..I have tried them..While the barrel length was 16 inches ,My carbine gas system with a 14.5 pinned flash hider just feels lighter and smaller..The weight-length difference is small.So I agree it really is phycological..However I feel it non the less..
I'm a bit hesitant at the moment. I have a 16" barrel (18" including flashider). I want to get a suppressor that is about 4.2" long.
20" length seems too much for a general purpose rifle, so I'm thinking of shortening it to 13.7".
The reason for the suppressor is also a smaller flash, which, however, becomes larger by shortening the barrel.
This would make the total length with suppressor the same as the current configuration - 18".
I don't know if this length will be effective enough when shooting, for example, even at 400m.
It should also be added that in our country there are no meaningless barrel length restrictions - so all the US information seems to me to be irrelevantly distorted around the 16" dimension.
What do you think?
FYI the 13.7 with the warcomp isn't 16 inches since you lose .625 inches with the threads. IDC what you do but I see it a lot.
gold jacket, green jacket, who gives a shit
@@realrainpoursx best comment ever. The OP is the guy whose has the answers to everything but no one cares
shoot a short barrel ar in a close quarter type of room without a suppressor and you will hate ar pistols
Really been looking hard at a 11.5” pistol but with yesterday’s news, I’m not sure if I should still go that route or just step up to the rifle classification. I’d rather have that manuverability. What are your thoughts?
The ATF makes it hard to do anything within our constitutional rights. With that being said, mass noncompliance is the answer. I say do what you feel is within your rights as a free American Citizen. After all, the second amendment is meant to protect us from tyrannical organizations like the ATF🤷🏻♂️ that’s my thoughts tho
@@themosindude7925 Yeah, I agree - I’m sure eventually it’ll all be illegal anyway. One piece at atime..
@@GarrettSuzak they can try, once you have people that experienced that freedom at one point, I don’t think they will be able to ban it. Easier to ban the product rather than the memory of said items.
@@themosindude7925 Mass noncompliance and yet you are talking about pinning and welding muzzle devices. Contradictinggggg dontcha think"?
@@anthonygonzales6029 ever heard of JB weld?🤷🏻♂️
What did your gunsmith say to use to align your muzzle device?
you can use a .22 cal cleaning rod or just any straight rod really as long as it is a snug fit to make sure everything is aligned
@@themosindude7925 if the cleaning rod pushes through then it’s g2g?
as long as it goes through and isn't making contact and the rod isn't just bending. You can also take the upper off, look down the barrel from the breach end and you should be able to see light.@@saucyscrambler8710
I think 16” is a great in between length but this does look promising; I’ll have to check it out.
16'' is optimal between the full 20" barrels and shorter lengths like 10.5 and 12.5 but 13.7 is still a capable length at range.
@@themosindude7925 correct
I'm in the middle of buying parts for a 13.7 now.... what rail are you running on your 13.7? Great video keep it up
13” bcm mcmr rail. Had to modify the end for suppressor use but it’s gtg if you aren’t shooting suppressed. Thanks for the support Adam!
@@themosindude7925 what did you have to modify, and what can did you use? was this the case with multiple cans?
@@markbrown4597 I just used a dremel to cut the railing off. I only tried with the surefire RC 2 but I’d think a lot of different cans would have the same problem.
So I wanted to basically build a "poor man's" Sig Spear Lt since the Lt is hard to get and stupid expensive. I don't really consider it a cheap rifle though as most of the parts are going to be a mix of premium, better than mil spec, and mil spec at the very least. I was going to go for a 16" barrel, but I wanted this rifle to be effective in tight spaces while having reasonable performance at 300 meters at least. I am in a bit of a tough spot. The upper I am going with is Foxtrot Mike 13.9 upper. It is basically 14 inches, but I wish that it were a 14.5 like the M4 I was issued. I don't like losing velocity, but I do also plan on running a suppressor on this rifle. The Foxtrot Mike upper only has 16" or 13.9". If I do run the can I want with the 13.9, the barrel length will be roughly equivalent to an 18" barrel. I can definitely work with that length. But I really wish that they offered a 14.5 option. I know that people say you can go as low as 11.5" and still get good performance. But from the data I have seen, I really don't like going too short. Still, the Foxtrot Upper has 95% of all the features I want in an upper. I also liked the BRN-180, but I don't like it's take down process or the reciprocating charging handle on the right side. I wish they would just make a left side charging version. I love AR15 rifles, but I feel like some of their features are outdated compared to what is available now. I am mostly okay with 13.9, but I still hope Foxtrot Mike decides to get a 14.5 option.
Do you have issues attaching surefire attachments to your 13.7” with warcomp and a 13” bcm rail?
I did before I modified the rail. I made a video on the rail modification. Simple dremel trick if you wanna check that out
@@themosindude7925 thanks!! Saw it! Much appreciated. I don’t think it’ll work on the keymod bcm I have
@@newtypetommy it might depending on how the end of the handguard is designed but I’m not sure as I’m not familiar with the model you have
Is that a BCM MCMR-13? I didn’t think it’d fit that barrel
Sure is! No fitment issues from mine
If it’s already pinned then it will not move go to your FFL where the suppressor is and check it with a rod .... if it clears your end cap then your good .... no sense in redoing it without checking
Didn't think about that. Solid advice, thanks man I'll give it a try.
The aero 16" handguard is probly still lighter than the 13.7" handguard
Not sure if you mentioned it but what HG length is that on the 16in rifle?
15” aero precision atlas upper my dude
I have two Uintah upr10 uppers with 13 inch barrels and p&w muzzle devices. One is a 243 the other is a 7mm-08 yes I know it took away from the external ballistics but for me it made for a little more of a compact rifle when I go hunting in New Mexico and West Texas and It has t stopped me from harvesting any game.
Do you have the A5 buffer system in your 13.7 build?
Would be good to weigh both rifles without the light and offset and anything that is different than the 16" rifle. I'd guess that the 13.9 would weight less and be almost as accurate or even as accurate. Mobility is the key, 2 inches of less rifle makes it easier to push it around and get on target easily.
How much easier? Nothing is free and is loss of 2 inches worth the >$200 it will cost you for the new 13.9” build when you could just get a pistol or even a tax stamp and then you can have your 10.5” - 12.5” and be noticeably shorter than the 13.9” + brake (16.1-16.5”)
@@robertdole5391 If you are talking about the difference between a new rifle versus one you already have in hand then I'd say go with what's in hand and what you plan to do with the rifle. Given the choice of a fresh build for an all around rifle, I'd go 13.9/13.7 and avoid the tax stamp. The ballistics are very close at those barrel lengths and if this was my only rifle I'd rather have something I can go out to 200+ yards with and still use for home defense and have maneuverability of a shorter barrel. All depends on your budget and use at the end of the day IMO
well done video. good input
If you want light weight, you have to commit to it with every part. You can't just get a shortened barrel then complain weight is the same.
What was your biggest cost?
Well the overall length of an standard ar15 is 16in for the barrel the A2 flash hider adds 2 extra inches for an over all length of 18" so 4in right there. 16in barrel plus the A2 flashhider.
It's still 2 inches because the overall length of the 13.7 pinned is 16"
I just purchased a 13.7” Sons of liberty barrel yesterday. It’s not .223 wylde. How do you feel about the difference in barrels? 5.56 barrel vs the .223 - I barely purchase .223 and have several other ARs that are .223 wylde. I think my 13.7 is going to be a heavy duty serious weapon that I’m going to go hard on… kinda why I went with the 5.56 barrel.
Are you using the VOLTR A5 buffer?
I heard those combined make thee absolute smoothest shooting rifle.
What buffer do u have
I am struggling so hard with what to do with my newest build.
It's a super lightweight V Seven I built as my dream rifle. I have an Energetic Armament Arx on the way (I know pew science hates the can, good for him) because it was the lightest can I could find to suit my build
I wanted to hit 5.5 lbs without a magazine but everything else.
The problem is what to do with my upper. I bought a 10.3" Smoke Composites CF handguard and a SOLGW Nox for a keymo mount.
Was going to have my barrel cut to 13.7 and pin/weld.
But part of me is thinking to just SBR it and get a Faxon gunner 12.5" and use a Jmac customs brake as my muzzle device.
Going that route would save me 6 ounces on the barrel, 1.5 ounces on the muzzle device, and 4.5 ounces on the keymo not being there.
That's a shitload of weight off the end of the barrel.
But then I have to ask for permission just to leave the state with it.
I could get a 16" Faxon and have it cut to 13.7" and pin/weld that, which would still save 6 ounces off the barrel at least.
Or 16" Faxon with the jmac brake and save 4.5 ounces on barrel, 1.5 on MD, and 4.5 on keymo adapter.
But I think a 16" barrel with a 6" suppressor using a 10.3" handguard might look stupid?
What the f do I do?
What would you do? I almost feel like building a second AR and doing one of each - SBR and 13.7 p/w and just have one at my target weight and the other very light but a bit heavier.
I'm about to upgrade to 13,7 from 10.5 on 12 in rail ballistic advantage barrel
Highly recommended my man! its been good to me. Heard good things ab the BA barrels too
Rocking a BA 10.3 with a warcomp absolutely love it!!!! 13.7/9 will be my next!
its not about size or comfort, right tool for the right job, you should be more concerned about ballistics and what your average engagement distances are then build your rifle around those factors. if you are shooting in an urban environment then fast and light is what you want. if you are out in the country you probably want something else, same if your in the mountains. never pin and weld, it is cheaper to just submit the form one online to the atf.
13.5”-13.9” master race
what size handguard are u using on the 13.7?
Bcm mcmr 13” rail
What mount are u using for the light
It’s the Mount olight provided. It seems solid, then again I haven’t bashed it into anything hard either
Thank you 😊
Glad to be of service!
Well... math tells me that it would be 2.3" shorter. (w/same muzzle device)
but its not the same muzzle device🤔 you'd be correct tho had it been the same
My big reason I like my 13.7 build is I like running a slightly shorter rail. With a 16 inch barrel I don’t like running a 15 inch rail or having the barrel stick out.
Embrace the forbidden popsicle
13.9 is getting popular. Lot of people having no issues out to 500 yards. I prefer the 14.5. Barely losing velocity and ergo is so much better
Well now I don’t feel so bad for having a 14.5 sbr lol. It’s 32 7/8” long with stock in the same spot. More barrel and performance, less length! Guess it wasn’t a total waste of $200 😂
haha its not to bad other than you can't leave the state without telling the fed bois like I can;)
@@themosindude7925 maybe a 13.7 sbr would be the way to go instead of a 14.5 🤔🤔🤔🤔
2.3 inches matter so much for tactical bUT bULlPups bAD. smh
Good video; thanks.
Working on my first 13.7 now. Just mocking it up makes me giggle like a school girl. Can't decide if I want to bed the barrel with Loctite 609 or not. Extension fits very loose into upper and I'm not used to that.
I can't say as I am not a gunsmith and haven't experienced the problem you have but id sparinigly use loctite as it can be a real bugger to remove.
If your planning on a "rifle" build with the 13.7" picture isn't sufficient to permanently attach the muzzle device. Is it likely to ever get checked no.. but I'd recommend against chancing your right to firearms. Pin and weld. Barrels are cheaper than court cost.
Future tip stop moving the gun around so we can see it
Noted, sorry about my amateur videography😂
Can't hear the audio at all.
direct thread suppressors are better..simpler,cheaper,lighter KISS
Consider a 12.5 or 13.7 ar pistol with direct threaded suppressor or a 16" with a Witt machine mini suppressor...sometimes the "fixes to a problem" modern solutions are trying to find a problem to fix.
I love it!
I think I know why;)
Males no difference. This video is good for people who suffer from OCD. 11Bravo OUT.
roscoe thicc modified government profile it is terrible choice for weight BA hanson or faxon would clap any 16" barrel weight wise even 16" pencil barrel. Sig long prong flash hider is lighter than surefire/be meyer/JP prong FH.
You don't want a pencil barrel on a duty rifle b/c it's gonna heat up quick and start throwing rounds in prolonged strings of fire. But agreed, their are lighted MD's but I plan on running a rc2 thus why I went with the heavier SF MD.
@@themosindude7925 Duty rifle? Not patrol type build where you realistic expect to face only one or two threat at time and easily put them down with one or two shot each?
what happens when you patrol into 1 -2 guys, then their buddies come running once they hear gun shots? Just thoughts. Plus the possibility of parts not being available so you want you parts to be able to last as long as possible. @@TrollinCrazyRussian
Ew no microphone
Christ
?
Trump was a stepper. Having his name on a Gadsden flag is unbelievably ironic.
Hey Greg here ummm shot in the dark but you wouldn’t be voting for Joe Biden would you?🧠🤯🔫
Much like the number of licks to the center of a tootsie pop, the world may never know🤫😂
Immediately lost respect when I saw that o light bull shit on your rifle smh
Good thing I don’t need your respect to live my life lol. Modlite is replacing it don’t worry
@@themosindude7925 No one said you would cease to exist if I didn't respect you weirdo. And at least you are replacing it with the best. OKW or PLH?