Are there people in here that have knowledge on rally and also carries an opinion on Dirt Rally 2? From my personal experience I feel that DR2 doesn't act all that realistically mostly in terms of how wheel spin and wheel lockup affects the car. It feels like the diff is always sort of loose-ish and the car doesn't really lose grip properly when accelerating or braking hard, but always tends to do a floaty-inbetween. Anyone have an opinion on this?
I did a four-day Team O'Neil course two years ago. Traveled two days from NZ to get there. I'm trying to win Lotto so I can go there again. Even if you never go rally driving, you will learn so much you'll need a week to process it all. To all you couch captains, life is too short for video games. Get off the simulator and do it for real! I promise you won't regret it.
Im hoping to get a wrx and give it the ej207/6 speed treatement. I gave up on racing games when i got my car cause i just cannot compare the feeling of irl to a sim. Im left extremely dissatisfied
@@neilbryson work to get money. I started as a diesel mechanic and im moving up from that soon. If you live in a ridiculously expensive city then you should probably leave
I'm a big Richard Burns Rally fan. But i've done a 2 days Rally "Boot Camp" in Southern France. No regrets, totally blew my mind. There's no way to replicate that feeling that you get.
I have the highest respect for people who have the guts, time, skills and money to do real rally racing. As a broke aging man, I opted the sim route. But I have to say, I love the same that sims have seemingly gotten pretty close to the real thing. Especially when tackling games like Richard Burns Rally. My reasoning being that I find that the advice coming from videos this like translates very well when to driving stages in sims. Anyway, enough of that. I just wanted to leave a comment to thank Team O'Neil YT Channel for posting these really useful videos. And that they helped me become a better Rally Driver in Sims. I wish we ended up getting the AWD donut video! I still can't do proper donuts in a AWD car for some reason. Its embarrassing. Cheers!
depending on where you live, just start rallycrossing locally in the cheapest car you can find. 1000 for some beater, 200 for some old blizzaks, 30 bucks an event, and that's it! pretty cheap compared to stage rally, but a great gateway into the sport nonetheless.
@@paulschuldesz For practice, the best method I've found is waiting for the biggest snow storm to hit in the winter, and going to a nice empty parking lot at night. Don't drive like a psycho, but you can easily slide around in a relatively safe area and get a feel for how the chassis responds to losing grip in the worst possible conditions. Shouldn't have to drive any faster than like 15mph to break the tires loose and toss the car around. Watch a lot of these videos and practice what Wyatt says, also check out some of the dirtfish videos. They're not as good but still can give you some insight. Remember "Lift Turn Brake" and you can really start controlling a car in ways that you didn't realize were possible. For reference, all this is done in my daily driver 83 toyota tercel. It's got 60 horsepower, and I won my class at the last rallycross (take that subawoos!). It's not about what car you have, it's about controlling it. Just drive what you have, fwd, rwd, awd, doesn't matter. Be safe and have fun with it, and you'll be a better driver before you know it! EYO, WHAT A RANT THIS WAS
Pulling the ABS fuse can make certain (namely torque-vectoring systems such as SH-AWD) AWD systems stop working or throw error messages, because they rely on the wheel speed sensors to determine wheelslip.
lift off, weight transfers to the front, turn where you want to go. find a car that will actually lift off oversteer and a gravel parking lot where its safe to practice and then practice. from my experience it is very hard to get a hyundai sonata to lift off oversteer.
@@timfrolov7891 hey now, not everyone lives near a rally course, or can afford an extra car. People show interest in different ways. We should accept everyone who wants to try
I've been into rally driving for about a month now. I've only driven a FWD on gravel, but me and my dad were thinking of taking our WRX to learn to drive it as well. Your videos are really helpful and they helped me enough to understand a thing or two and make me improve, thanks!
Love the content ever since I found this channel. I've been driving a forklift for work for a little while now, but during that time I discovered that they utilize rear wheel steering. Did some research and found out some cars also use rear wheel steering. It'd be cool to see a video where you explain the concepts and intricacies of that.
Hi mate, just a couple follow-up questions so we are clear on a couple of things: 1. How long were you driving a forklift before you found out about the steering being from the rear? 2. What are some classic examples of rear steering cars?
Thank you for this video, I play a lot of dirt with a wheel and I love the way the games feel but no matter which one I play I just suck with awd, I can smash courses all day long with group b rwd cars but any time I step into an awd car it's just tons of going off the track from understeer. I never really left foot brake and now I realize that may be an issue. I'm going to start working on it so again, thank you! Update: Significant improvement after just taking 7 minutes to watch this video, I could barely stay on the track before, and now I'm ranking globally above 50%!
One bit of safety advice if you choose to do this stuff on your own, make sure that either someone is with you or knows where you are and what you're doing in case something goes really wrong and you wreck, someone can call the appropriate responders.
I started tracking my old B5 A4 this last year and this video really hit the nail on the head about some issues I'm experiencing. I can feel the ABS kicking on in some hard corners. I didn't even think about how much it was probably not helping me. Need to wire in an ABS switch and learn to brake better. Thanks!
get Richard Burns Rally and complete the tests , it teaches how too lift of oversteer, how too heal toe, how to left foot brake and much more! I played it before I had driving licence and it really paid of as the hands get use to the quick moves on the wheel and the legs have a good idea of what to do :)
So good I want to participiate in your school. That would make a difference in my driving... But I am from Europe. So I am ao thankful for your videos and great ability to explain.
So I have an awd converted civic 530hp, been wanting to try a little bit of rally. My question is, since it uses a viscous coupler for the awd, is it bad to pull the hand brake or lock up the front/rear brakes separately?
If you want an all analog AWD car just buy a 96-01 Subaru Justy. They are almost free, parts are cheap and they have no abs or stability control. They also lack both power and grip making them great for learning to brake/weight transfer.
How about going a little further into how to hone in threshold braking on loose surfaces. As a driver, you cannot see the wheels lock of course. Just wondering what indicators you use that you are at the limit of braking.
From my rather limited driving experience and physics knowledge, I may at least tell you that wheels locking up when car is in motion will result in at least one if not usually more wheels skidding, as ur going beyond the traction circle of at least one of said wheels. "Laggy input" from throttle/brakes/steering, vehicle sliding around in unexpected ways, and even loud sounds of screeching or grinding dirt/gravel (depending on driving surface) are all possible indicators that at least one of your wheels has locked up. Hope this helps :)
Honestly probably one of the easiest ways to find out is to go drive out into an big enough open area with gravel, dirt, or something similar, and just keep alternating between accelerating to a decent speed and then slamming the brakes, and observe how the car reacts. Make sure to be *very* careful with the steering tho; don't want you to roll over in your car lol. Similarly, I would strongly advise against doing such maneuvers in vehicles with higher centers of gravity like SUVs and trucks, as they are more prone to rollover accidents
I can't say I've ever found a compelling need for left foot braking. I get the argument of it's value. I've just never found a need in actual driving. I find myself either modulating throttle %, moving to light taps of throttle and brake, or moving into modulating brake %. I run through the range of full throttle to full brake but only work in a region along the breadth that's appropriate for the time. In essence, the only time I personally see use in my own driving is near the zero point where I alternate between light throttle and light braking where it becomes more physical work to move one foot back and forth a pile of times. Back to the speed thing, I can't say I've found need for faster movements than one foot with a car. Even if you're making 3-5 adjustments through a corner, the process is physically lethargic enough to perform the necessary actions with one foot. Cars are big, heavy, slow things, at least the cars most people own. I even race a turboed car with an upsized turbo, and I haven't really found a need use throttle to even keep the turbo spooled. I know there's a counter argument that I'm leaving time on the table by not doing left foot braking, but when my focus is on maximizing tire use, diving line, and car rotation, I'm never really run into a place where I'm going "man, I really need to left foot brake here." I'm sure there's some dependency on the vehicle used, engine and drivetrain packaging, suspension setup, and the course that may influence some of this need. For awd driving, I tend to think about very different things, mainly how the awd system influences handling balance, tire grip, and application of both power and brakes. Since it's a linked system, generally variable in modern cars, and with the use or lack of use of limited slip diffs, cars can vary a TON in how they behave based on their awd system. Even the exact same chassis and suspension setup can vary wildly with a different drivetrain and/or diff package underneath, enough so where you're stuck modifying the suspension setup just to rebalance the car. And then you gotta relearn how to drive the thing. Awd systems are so varied that you don't drive two cars the same way. Much of the work in driving an awd system well is understanding the awd package being used and how it manipulates power delivery, wheel speed linking, and and how it puts down power and even braking force. It may be kind of odd to think about an awd system controlling how a car brakes, but for example a Subaru STI 6-speed with the ability to "lock" the center diff has influence on how the brakes are applied. Most cars are set front biased meaning the front locks first and promotes understeer everywhere from light to heavy braking. You either dial this out, or you can fight it some with the awd system. The Subaru center in the locked position will actually counter the bias and allow better braking in the straight and more neutral application of braking in corners specifically because it binds the front braking through the awd drivetrain and actually applies some of the front braking to the rear. Neat, I know. The same binding also promotes understeer on corner entry though, so it's a tradeoff. Awd systems vary so much from all time to on demand. It may be fwd to start and then only send power when the front slips. It may only transfer up to 50% or might be able to do more. What the awd system does on throttle may be different than what it does off throttle or changes what it does between light or heavy throttle. It may incorporate the ABS system to perform traction control and torque vectoring. The resulting effects can make the awd system heavily influential on the handling balance of the car, possibly even swinging wildly from understeer to oversteer. It can be very troublesome unless you have a very good understanding of the system and how it works. At the same time, you need to pay attention to yourself and be very aware of how you're applying inputs. You need to adapt your driving to the awd system used in the particular vehicle and then utilize it as best as possible. That's not an easy feat and generally requires a lot of hours with that awd system in race conditions to really understand it and develop a driving profile that compliments the awd system. And this is saying nothing about the suspension setup, tires, or vehicle being used.
The real question to ask yourself is: Is it worth taking a step backward to take two steps forward? If you start left foot braking, you'll be worse at driving than you are now for a little while until it becomes natural, then you'll start progressing and be a lot faster in the end. How long will that take? It can take quite a while if you're learning yourself by trial and error. It's more time and work than a lot of people want to commit, especially when you are solid and confident already. That's totally understandable, but don't let anyone fool you, the payoff is enormous. Check out any WRC footage and really analyze what's going on, like ua-cam.com/video/jpaSTIVe2p8/v-deo.html and really watch how much precision and control you can have over the car's speed and weight transfer... Then imagine trying to do all that work with only one foot, it'd be like trying to juggle with one hand tied behind your back.
@@Teamoneilrally Indeed. I've certainly considered this. The problem I run into is I've never felt a need for it. For example I heal-toe a lot and find significant need to do so lacking a third appendage that will reach that far. I can justify the idea of learning it to simply learn it just to have the tool at my disposal. However outside of go-karts, I just haven't bothered. Bad on me? I don't know. It's just never seemed like a detriment, but that may be more a byproduct of ignorance that functionality. For example, you covered left for braking in another video and talked about the ability to weight shift and line correct while on throttle. For me, it a question of if that preforms more of a function that slight throttle modulation? For drive by wire, I'm sure it offers better response and fidelity to left foot brake. For a cable throttle car, maybe not, although there is rubber banding thought the drivetrain and mounts that isn't there right at the wheels with the brakes. So yeah, technically the brakes should always yield better control and speed of function. There may be trade-offs to one method or the other. For example left foot braking is at the mercy of the braking bias and even bite and modulation characteristics, even pedal travel, deadzone, and pad kickback that need to be learned and worked with. Then there's variation based on the platform (fwd, awd, rwd) and what it actually does to brake under throttle in each. There's also the consideration of if the car even likes it, let's you, or provides boosting long enough for what you're trying to do. There's a lot of variables and learning that may not translate well across vehicles. Then again, my inexperience may have me overthinking the problem. I tend to consider reliability of function am important part of racing, and I'll adapt my driving style to operations that work well for the car, tires, course, etc. and that I can reliably count on. Sometimes you do weird things just to make the package work optimally, and I'm more inclined to pull out as many variables as I can for reliability of motion. Don't mind my babbling. Frankly I agree with you. Leaning the technique is important. I've toyed with it lightly, but I've just never put in any appreciable time. Actual application of it universally, I don't know. I think there's a lot of variables to consider to just say, yes do it because it's better. There may be situations where it's not due to some underlying circumstances.
If you can *heel+toe* downshift, you probably _don't_ need left-footed braking. (I've only ever used it when I was recovering from breaking my right ankle (left foot: gas+clutch+brake!) or when I'm feeling lazy.)
@@TristanMorrow They're different things. Left foot braking is mainly an on-throttle idea where you get to independently modulate throttle and braking while driving. My argument is mainly towards awd since both are pretty heavily linked through a spectrum, both affecting all 4 tires, and generating some level of accel/decel of the wheels relative to the ground. My experience has me not caring enough to perform this function and instead opt to operate through the spectrum with one foot rather than two, a technically slower operation. There's good arguments towards left foot braking like speed of the ability to transition between throttle and brake or being able to brake while on the throttle (a potential advantage with turbo engines). In practical use, I've personally seldom felt enough deficiency not doing left foot braking to feel I'm leaving much of anything on the table. My list of priorities and influence on time tends to place many other things far above the idea of implementing left foot braking. Contrarily, I've found significant value in heel-toe and a reasonable need to do so in order to accomplish the numerous driving inputs transitioning through a corner. Not heel-toeing tends to generate a moderate loss of time compromising braking into a corner or shifting during or out of a corner. Heel-toe is specifically a tool to overlap two driving functions and perform them at the same and desirable time. Left foot braking is only slightly this, less so trying to perform two functions and more so increasing input changeover speed. Left foot braking changes when applied to a fwd or rwd car since throttle only affects two tires while braking still affects all four. In the case of fwd left foot braking, I think this is a FAR more common and a highly valuable function since it's basically providing a good e-brake without needing to remove your hands from the wheel. It lets you modulate weight balance and tire grip in ways you can't achieve without left foot braking, with the closest simile being using the e-brake, which people also do. It's also inherently stable to to perform since you're pulling at the front and dragging at the back. There's a strong desire to be throttle heavy in a fwd car, but you also need a tool to control handling balance, and left foot braking helps. Left foot braking in a rwd would operate a bit different but may serve use with a car of a particular suspension setup and brake biasing. You could make it perform unique tasks to handling and how the car shifts its driving line when used. I'm not sure how much value it offers though beyond application speed.
Could you guys make a video that goes over the logistics of a stage rally event? I'm currently building a car for Rallycross events and plan on refining it into a stage rally car. But I'm not sure about the size of crew I would need, how I would setup/do service (and if it's possible to do with just me and a co driver, no crew). How man tires, spare parts, ect. to bring. Just like an overview for dummies. I've also volunteered at a few events but still have a lot of questions
Could you make an upgrades sequence list to take a manual car to rally or rally cross? I assume you buy better tires before a roll cage, so whats the best bang for buck car mods at different budgets?
Not that simple. It depends heavily on the class you’re racing in and the rules they have, among other things. Roll cage may or may not be a requirement. It may or may not be forbidden in some classes. A certain type of tire may be forbidden or required, etc. However, some tips from my own experience. With any car, start with it being safe and reliable. The benchmark here is passing tech all day every day with not even a worrying thought about whether or not you will pass. The benchmark for reliability is a bit more difficult to define but basically try to get your car to the point where you can complete your weekend without any issues and you’re confident it will do that every single time. These two things may take a while and a load of money depending on what you’re starting out with and what you’re doing with the car. Then, take a good look at handling, what you need to change or tweak (that includes the brakes, if applicable) and then go for power. Of course, weight reduction is mostly free and you can consider it if you don’t daily the car and if the rules allow. Additional lights may come in handy in some cases (rally mostly, probably) and should most likely be done before power mods, etc. But again, everything is subject to change (except safety and reliability) depending on the car you have and the type of sport you’re competing in.
Guys, love your videos! I have an idea/request. Could You possibly maybe review a popular rally game/sim and how it compares to real life? Such as Dirt Rally 2, or Richard Burns Rally? Many of us only have the possibility to train virtually before we can afford to join your rally school someday
@@gamingtierce4338 is there less reuse of track assets? in the first game they reuse the same corner etc a lot its like they put the track together like a puzzle reusing many parts multiple times.
Guys gtfo they won't analize your crap, dirt is not even a simulator, it's an arcade! A dirt player can learn a lot by playing beamng if he can't drive irl. But it has nothing to do with this channel. There are already ''pro'' drivers (whatever it means... ) Who tested dirt. Some girl even makes UA-cam money by saying she's a pro driver and she quite enjoys dirt
Good video, nice explanation of the theory of late braking thru corners. Brake balance front to rear can have a huge impact on just how fast you can corner especially when you can adjust on the fly.
@@n0z4a243 some cars it is under the dash but same idea :P **edit also you'll get an ABS light on your dash don't worry about that its just telling you the abs is not working(becuase you pulled the fuse duh).
@@n0z4a243 doesnt work for every model... for subarus 2011+ it gives you a check engine, no traction control no abs and less throttle whe you remove that fuse
90% of cars its under the hood No one is going to to use a 2011+ for rally unless it's a built rally car, and then in either the WRX or STI you push the button under the dash. My 2013 STI always has it's track mode on
Thank you.. I have a utv that I'm working with and wanted to get better at drifting with it.. I'll work on the skills you have presented and let you know how it goes
Would love to bring my wrx to the course, practice and learn what i haven't learned yet. not saying im a genius on this because i have limited experience on back roads (all the ones around me are pretty much straight farm roads) but i know how to handle a vehicle on loose surfaces. As long as i got good tires lol
Can you possibly do a video on getting started with an automatic awd? I know its not a perfect rally setup but its all some of us have for starters lol
I have a 1986 Toyota Corolla SR5, 70hp RWD, I usually drive on mountain roads going downhill because I don't exactly have uphill horsepower, and I was wondering how left foot braking could help my driving on a paved road.
Please do a video on how to left foot brake and do heel-toe downshifts. Having a difficult time figuring out when/where to transition from one to the other for max speed thru a corner.
Thanks for the info. My brother used to hit me if I used my left foot to brake (that’s for the clutch!). It’s a hard habit to break, but obviously it will be worth it.
Looking to get either a Mazda 3 turbo awd or a Genesis G70 awd. Which would rally better? Would I crazy to skip the G70's limited slip diff in favor of the lighter and nimbler Mazda?
In a race car, there's very little engine braking used, because the actual brakes slow you down so much better. Typically you would come in hot, get on the brakes to scrub speed and rotate, then shift in the corner so you have power for the apex.
I need those sparco special competition boots to get that driving level. It remembers me a video of ayrton senna kicking the throttle of a nsx with sissy fancy shoes but in hardcore mode.
@@Teamoneilrally which one would you take off ? The one inside the engine-boxe fuse or the one inside the intérior fuse boxe ? In ordre to keep the brake balance, without "material" rear brake repartitor, but électronic brake repartitor function paired with ABS calculator.
Give you some control in an oversteer and understeer situation, changing balance, but with not so much overlap with the gas because you'll have too much oversteer
You can use LFB to cure understeer in any car, it's just tricky in a RWD because it is usually much easier to lock up the front tires so you have to be pretty gentle on the brake. Most RWD rally cars have adjustable brake bias and run a lot more rear brake than you'd find in a street car, this makes it a lot easier to brake in corners and on slippery roads.
If you had the same size, weight, and power... The AWD would feel a little slower, just because of the driveline. More moving pieces, CV shafts, differentials, etc.
Where are you guys at? I love my wrx but im only comfortable driving fast on dry and wet asphalt. Dirt i understeer alot and snow i get a little spinny sometimes. Abs dont help
The only helper my subaru has is abs for daily driving. I find i can still brake hard without it kicking on. It only likes to kick on when im on ice which is odd
Anders R no, the wheels aren’t that easy to lock up with the throttle open since most brake servos are vacuum based systems so with the throttle closed you have power brakes and with the throttle open you essentially don’t. A lot more force on the brake pedal is required to lock the wheels up. In addition, you’ll be on the throttle and relatively high up the rev range.
Please make a video why the old wrc-s has a unike turbo flutter. and how to make our street cars sound like a bugeye subaru wrc when off thorthle.(if it possible)
You don't want that on a street car. Those pops you here are anti lag systems that burn fuel in the turbo to keep them spooled when you let off the gas. These destroy turbos though so don't.
I just discovered rallying. My dream at this moment is to play around in a tricked out Subie Impreza. My reality is learnin the ropes w/ my nice lil Toyota Yaris. Is it really necessary to disconnect abs and all that?
The Yaris is perfect, we start everyone in stock Ford Fiestas for a day and a half before they get into the Subarus here I would definitely recommend disabling everything you can (or putting it on a toggle switch if you're crafty) And the auto trans is actually great to learn on because you can focus on left foot braking completely Have fun and just remember: ALWAYS LOOK DOWN THE ROAD WHERE YOU WANT TO GO when you start sliding around
Watched. Liked. Sighed... Went playing Dirt Rally 2.0
Went and played vr dirt rally cuz I don’t have 2.0 yet!
@@imoffendedthatyouareoffended yeh let's hope they'll add vr support to 2.0
Play to Richard Burns Rally, i think it so real as gravel sim
@@Ingenuus32 I kind of find weird playing rbr in vr, everything looks huge and less natural
Are there people in here that have knowledge on rally and also carries an opinion on Dirt Rally 2? From my personal experience I feel that DR2 doesn't act all that realistically mostly in terms of how wheel spin and wheel lockup affects the car. It feels like the diff is always sort of loose-ish and the car doesn't really lose grip properly when accelerating or braking hard, but always tends to do a floaty-inbetween. Anyone have an opinion on this?
I did a four-day Team O'Neil course two years ago. Traveled two days from NZ to get there. I'm trying to win Lotto so I can go there again. Even if you never go rally driving, you will learn so much you'll need a week to process it all. To all you couch captains, life is too short for video games. Get off the simulator and do it for real! I promise you won't regret it.
Im hoping to get a wrx and give it the ej207/6 speed treatement. I gave up on racing games when i got my car cause i just cannot compare the feeling of irl to a sim. Im left extremely dissatisfied
I have no money though
I need a wrx really bad
@@neilbryson work to get money. I started as a diesel mechanic and im moving up from that soon. If you live in a ridiculously expensive city then you should probably leave
I'm a big Richard Burns Rally fan. But i've done a 2 days Rally "Boot Camp" in Southern France. No regrets, totally blew my mind. There's no way to replicate that feeling that you get.
Wyatt do they ever let you leave the compound? Are you trapped? Blink twice if yes. Also can I join you?
he exchanged his freedom for endless rallying fun
@@pepsiman9840 Worth
I have the highest respect for people who have the guts, time, skills and money to do real rally racing. As a broke aging man, I opted the sim route. But I have to say, I love the same that sims have seemingly gotten pretty close to the real thing. Especially when tackling games like Richard Burns Rally. My reasoning being that I find that the advice coming from videos this like translates very well when to driving stages in sims.
Anyway, enough of that. I just wanted to leave a comment to thank Team O'Neil YT Channel for posting these really useful videos. And that they helped me become a better Rally Driver in Sims. I wish we ended up getting the AWD donut video! I still can't do proper donuts in a AWD car for some reason. Its embarrassing.
Cheers!
I wish i had a place & money to start practicing this sport
depending on where you live, just start rallycrossing locally in the cheapest car you can find. 1000 for some beater, 200 for some old blizzaks, 30 bucks an event, and that's it! pretty cheap compared to stage rally, but a great gateway into the sport nonetheless.
@@paulschuldesz My area is like that too. I just find nice dirt roads and such and learn that way
@@zevi2000 well, i'll try hard to get a car that i own and can strip
Then do it at the monthly contests, talk to people get a ridealong/get them to ridealong with you and give pointers.
@@paulschuldesz For practice, the best method I've found is waiting for the biggest snow storm to hit in the winter, and going to a nice empty parking lot at night. Don't drive like a psycho, but you can easily slide around in a relatively safe area and get a feel for how the chassis responds to losing grip in the worst possible conditions. Shouldn't have to drive any faster than like 15mph to break the tires loose and toss the car around. Watch a lot of these videos and practice what Wyatt says, also check out some of the dirtfish videos. They're not as good but still can give you some insight. Remember "Lift Turn Brake" and you can really start controlling a car in ways that you didn't realize were possible. For reference, all this is done in my daily driver 83 toyota tercel. It's got 60 horsepower, and I won my class at the last rallycross (take that subawoos!). It's not about what car you have, it's about controlling it. Just drive what you have, fwd, rwd, awd, doesn't matter. Be safe and have fun with it, and you'll be a better driver before you know it! EYO, WHAT A RANT THIS WAS
Pulling the ABS fuse can make certain (namely torque-vectoring systems such as SH-AWD) AWD systems stop working or throw error messages, because they rely on the wheel speed sensors to determine wheelslip.
Hi. Any idea how to pull out the brake pedal engine switch?
can you make a video on lift off oversteer for different wheel vehicles
I feel like might have already about a year ago
lift off, weight transfers to the front, turn where you want to go. find a car that will actually lift off oversteer and a gravel parking lot where its safe to practice and then practice. from my experience it is very hard to get a hyundai sonata to lift off oversteer.
Thanks Wyatt. killing it. Inspiring and yet realistic videos lately.
Thanks Ian!
I miss my impreza but i need a wrx/sti for my winter fun.
Wyatt, you're the man. Feel like I've become a better driver through watching many of your vids, especially the one on hand positioning.
Yeah even moreso for seat position.
watching this to get better at dirt rally
Gtfo
@@timfrolov7891 hey now, not everyone lives near a rally course, or can afford an extra car. People show interest in different ways. We should accept everyone who wants to try
@@zrspangle STFU
@@Undertaker93 🥴
@@Undertaker93 Watch it sheesh let him do what he wants cuz it aint our problem
I've been into rally driving for about a month now. I've only driven a FWD on gravel, but me and my dad were thinking of taking our WRX to learn to drive it as well. Your videos are really helpful and they helped me enough to understand a thing or two and make me improve, thanks!
Love the content ever since I found this channel. I've been driving a forklift for work for a little while now, but during that time I discovered that they utilize rear wheel steering. Did some research and found out some cars also use rear wheel steering. It'd be cool to see a video where you explain the concepts and intricacies of that.
Hi mate, just a couple follow-up questions so we are clear on a couple of things:
1. How long were you driving a forklift before you found out about the steering being from the rear?
2. What are some classic examples of rear steering cars?
Would love to see a front wheel drive version of this video, excellent video as well, super informative but also highly entertaining.
Thank you for this video, I play a lot of dirt with a wheel and I love the way the games feel but no matter which one I play I just suck with awd, I can smash courses all day long with group b rwd cars but any time I step into an awd car it's just tons of going off the track from understeer. I never really left foot brake and now I realize that may be an issue. I'm going to start working on it so again, thank you!
Update: Significant improvement after just taking 7 minutes to watch this video, I could barely stay on the track before, and now I'm ranking globally above 50%!
One bit of safety advice if you choose to do this stuff on your own, make sure that either someone is with you or knows where you are and what you're doing in case something goes really wrong and you wreck, someone can call the appropriate responders.
Gonna try this on Richard Burns Rally
I started tracking my old B5 A4 this last year and this video really hit the nail on the head about some issues I'm experiencing. I can feel the ABS kicking on in some hard corners. I didn't even think about how much it was probably not helping me. Need to wire in an ABS switch and learn to brake better. Thanks!
Hope your doing good man it's been 3 years
I have a b5 a4 as well, would love to hear how you’ve enjoyed the car
I'm in LOVE with your Subaru, man!
I find it really hard not to favourite many of these videos and I only race cars in simulations. Great teaching material.
get Richard Burns Rally and complete the tests , it teaches how too lift of oversteer, how too heal toe, how to left foot brake and much more! I played it before I had driving licence and it really paid of as the hands get use to the quick moves on the wheel and the legs have a good idea of what to do :)
Finally a vid that explains AWD control well. Thank you
So good
I want to participiate in your school. That would make a difference in my driving...
But I am from Europe. So I am ao thankful for your videos and great ability to explain.
Go to Finland. ..there are 10times better schools then this.....
So I have an awd converted civic 530hp, been wanting to try a little bit of rally. My question is, since it uses a viscous coupler for the awd, is it bad to pull the hand brake or lock up the front/rear brakes separately?
I love this channel. I'm on Craigslist looking for an older Subaru Impreza.
If you want an all analog AWD car just buy a 96-01 Subaru Justy. They are almost free, parts are cheap and they have no abs or stability control. They also lack both power and grip making them great for learning to brake/weight transfer.
How about going a little further into how to hone in threshold braking on loose surfaces. As a driver, you cannot see the wheels lock of course. Just wondering what indicators you use that you are at the limit of braking.
From my rather limited driving experience and physics knowledge, I may at least tell you that wheels locking up when car is in motion will result in at least one if not usually more wheels skidding, as ur going beyond the traction circle of at least one of said wheels. "Laggy input" from throttle/brakes/steering, vehicle sliding around in unexpected ways, and even loud sounds of screeching or grinding dirt/gravel (depending on driving surface) are all possible indicators that at least one of your wheels has locked up. Hope this helps :)
Honestly probably one of the easiest ways to find out is to go drive out into an big enough open area with gravel, dirt, or something similar, and just keep alternating between accelerating to a decent speed and then slamming the brakes, and observe how the car reacts. Make sure to be *very* careful with the steering tho; don't want you to roll over in your car lol. Similarly, I would strongly advise against doing such maneuvers in vehicles with higher centers of gravity like SUVs and trucks, as they are more prone to rollover accidents
4:10 I have a GF8, comes analog as standard (except with abs)
still love to see Wyatt do several laps with full throttle, even he's already done many times in the video before :)
Its all about weight transfer , and throttle control with some little break to hold the grip at limit.
well if you want the back to step out it is about exceeding the grip limit for a very brief moment
I can't say I've ever found a compelling need for left foot braking. I get the argument of it's value. I've just never found a need in actual driving. I find myself either modulating throttle %, moving to light taps of throttle and brake, or moving into modulating brake %. I run through the range of full throttle to full brake but only work in a region along the breadth that's appropriate for the time. In essence, the only time I personally see use in my own driving is near the zero point where I alternate between light throttle and light braking where it becomes more physical work to move one foot back and forth a pile of times. Back to the speed thing, I can't say I've found need for faster movements than one foot with a car. Even if you're making 3-5 adjustments through a corner, the process is physically lethargic enough to perform the necessary actions with one foot. Cars are big, heavy, slow things, at least the cars most people own. I even race a turboed car with an upsized turbo, and I haven't really found a need use throttle to even keep the turbo spooled. I know there's a counter argument that I'm leaving time on the table by not doing left foot braking, but when my focus is on maximizing tire use, diving line, and car rotation, I'm never really run into a place where I'm going "man, I really need to left foot brake here." I'm sure there's some dependency on the vehicle used, engine and drivetrain packaging, suspension setup, and the course that may influence some of this need.
For awd driving, I tend to think about very different things, mainly how the awd system influences handling balance, tire grip, and application of both power and brakes. Since it's a linked system, generally variable in modern cars, and with the use or lack of use of limited slip diffs, cars can vary a TON in how they behave based on their awd system. Even the exact same chassis and suspension setup can vary wildly with a different drivetrain and/or diff package underneath, enough so where you're stuck modifying the suspension setup just to rebalance the car. And then you gotta relearn how to drive the thing. Awd systems are so varied that you don't drive two cars the same way. Much of the work in driving an awd system well is understanding the awd package being used and how it manipulates power delivery, wheel speed linking, and and how it puts down power and even braking force. It may be kind of odd to think about an awd system controlling how a car brakes, but for example a Subaru STI 6-speed with the ability to "lock" the center diff has influence on how the brakes are applied. Most cars are set front biased meaning the front locks first and promotes understeer everywhere from light to heavy braking. You either dial this out, or you can fight it some with the awd system. The Subaru center in the locked position will actually counter the bias and allow better braking in the straight and more neutral application of braking in corners specifically because it binds the front braking through the awd drivetrain and actually applies some of the front braking to the rear. Neat, I know. The same binding also promotes understeer on corner entry though, so it's a tradeoff. Awd systems vary so much from all time to on demand. It may be fwd to start and then only send power when the front slips. It may only transfer up to 50% or might be able to do more. What the awd system does on throttle may be different than what it does off throttle or changes what it does between light or heavy throttle. It may incorporate the ABS system to perform traction control and torque vectoring. The resulting effects can make the awd system heavily influential on the handling balance of the car, possibly even swinging wildly from understeer to oversteer. It can be very troublesome unless you have a very good understanding of the system and how it works. At the same time, you need to pay attention to yourself and be very aware of how you're applying inputs. You need to adapt your driving to the awd system used in the particular vehicle and then utilize it as best as possible. That's not an easy feat and generally requires a lot of hours with that awd system in race conditions to really understand it and develop a driving profile that compliments the awd system. And this is saying nothing about the suspension setup, tires, or vehicle being used.
The real question to ask yourself is: Is it worth taking a step backward to take two steps forward? If you start left foot braking, you'll be worse at driving than you are now for a little while until it becomes natural, then you'll start progressing and be a lot faster in the end. How long will that take? It can take quite a while if you're learning yourself by trial and error. It's more time and work than a lot of people want to commit, especially when you are solid and confident already. That's totally understandable, but don't let anyone fool you, the payoff is enormous. Check out any WRC footage and really analyze what's going on, like ua-cam.com/video/jpaSTIVe2p8/v-deo.html and really watch how much precision and control you can have over the car's speed and weight transfer... Then imagine trying to do all that work with only one foot, it'd be like trying to juggle with one hand tied behind your back.
@@Teamoneilrally Indeed. I've certainly considered this. The problem I run into is I've never felt a need for it. For example I heal-toe a lot and find significant need to do so lacking a third appendage that will reach that far. I can justify the idea of learning it to simply learn it just to have the tool at my disposal. However outside of go-karts, I just haven't bothered. Bad on me? I don't know. It's just never seemed like a detriment, but that may be more a byproduct of ignorance that functionality. For example, you covered left for braking in another video and talked about the ability to weight shift and line correct while on throttle. For me, it a question of if that preforms more of a function that slight throttle modulation? For drive by wire, I'm sure it offers better response and fidelity to left foot brake. For a cable throttle car, maybe not, although there is rubber banding thought the drivetrain and mounts that isn't there right at the wheels with the brakes. So yeah, technically the brakes should always yield better control and speed of function. There may be trade-offs to one method or the other. For example left foot braking is at the mercy of the braking bias and even bite and modulation characteristics, even pedal travel, deadzone, and pad kickback that need to be learned and worked with. Then there's variation based on the platform (fwd, awd, rwd) and what it actually does to brake under throttle in each. There's also the consideration of if the car even likes it, let's you, or provides boosting long enough for what you're trying to do. There's a lot of variables and learning that may not translate well across vehicles. Then again, my inexperience may have me overthinking the problem. I tend to consider reliability of function am important part of racing, and I'll adapt my driving style to operations that work well for the car, tires, course, etc. and that I can reliably count on. Sometimes you do weird things just to make the package work optimally, and I'm more inclined to pull out as many variables as I can for reliability of motion.
Don't mind my babbling. Frankly I agree with you. Leaning the technique is important. I've toyed with it lightly, but I've just never put in any appreciable time. Actual application of it universally, I don't know. I think there's a lot of variables to consider to just say, yes do it because it's better. There may be situations where it's not due to some underlying circumstances.
If you can *heel+toe* downshift, you probably _don't_ need left-footed braking. (I've only ever used it when I was recovering from breaking my right ankle (left foot: gas+clutch+brake!) or when I'm feeling lazy.)
@@TristanMorrow They're different things. Left foot braking is mainly an on-throttle idea where you get to independently modulate throttle and braking while driving. My argument is mainly towards awd since both are pretty heavily linked through a spectrum, both affecting all 4 tires, and generating some level of accel/decel of the wheels relative to the ground. My experience has me not caring enough to perform this function and instead opt to operate through the spectrum with one foot rather than two, a technically slower operation. There's good arguments towards left foot braking like speed of the ability to transition between throttle and brake or being able to brake while on the throttle (a potential advantage with turbo engines). In practical use, I've personally seldom felt enough deficiency not doing left foot braking to feel I'm leaving much of anything on the table. My list of priorities and influence on time tends to place many other things far above the idea of implementing left foot braking. Contrarily, I've found significant value in heel-toe and a reasonable need to do so in order to accomplish the numerous driving inputs transitioning through a corner. Not heel-toeing tends to generate a moderate loss of time compromising braking into a corner or shifting during or out of a corner. Heel-toe is specifically a tool to overlap two driving functions and perform them at the same and desirable time. Left foot braking is only slightly this, less so trying to perform two functions and more so increasing input changeover speed.
Left foot braking changes when applied to a fwd or rwd car since throttle only affects two tires while braking still affects all four. In the case of fwd left foot braking, I think this is a FAR more common and a highly valuable function since it's basically providing a good e-brake without needing to remove your hands from the wheel. It lets you modulate weight balance and tire grip in ways you can't achieve without left foot braking, with the closest simile being using the e-brake, which people also do. It's also inherently stable to to perform since you're pulling at the front and dragging at the back. There's a strong desire to be throttle heavy in a fwd car, but you also need a tool to control handling balance, and left foot braking helps. Left foot braking in a rwd would operate a bit different but may serve use with a car of a particular suspension setup and brake biasing. You could make it perform unique tasks to handling and how the car shifts its driving line when used. I'm not sure how much value it offers though beyond application speed.
@@Xmvw2X sure buddy. How many titles have you won?
I'd love a driving instructor like him.
Could you guys make a video that goes over the logistics of a stage rally event? I'm currently building a car for Rallycross events and plan on refining it into a stage rally car. But I'm not sure about the size of crew I would need, how I would setup/do service (and if it's possible to do with just me and a co driver, no crew). How man tires, spare parts, ect. to bring. Just like an overview for dummies.
I've also volunteered at a few events but still have a lot of questions
We need to do some more in-depth videos, but this is a good start if you haven't seen it yet: ua-cam.com/video/LuEl_MdmZT0/v-deo.html
I didn't see that video was available. Thank you! It was very helpful @@Teamoneilrally
Could you make an upgrades sequence list to take a manual car to rally or rally cross?
I assume you buy better tires before a roll cage, so whats the best bang for buck car mods at different budgets?
Not that simple. It depends heavily on the class you’re racing in and the rules they have, among other things. Roll cage may or may not be a requirement. It may or may not be forbidden in some classes. A certain type of tire may be forbidden or required, etc.
However, some tips from my own experience.
With any car, start with it being safe and reliable. The benchmark here is passing tech all day every day with not even a worrying thought about whether or not you will pass. The benchmark for reliability is a bit more difficult to define but basically try to get your car to the point where you can complete your weekend without any issues and you’re confident it will do that every single time.
These two things may take a while and a load of money depending on what you’re starting out with and what you’re doing with the car.
Then, take a good look at handling, what you need to change or tweak (that includes the brakes, if applicable) and then go for power.
Of course, weight reduction is mostly free and you can consider it if you don’t daily the car and if the rules allow. Additional lights may come in handy in some cases (rally mostly, probably) and should most likely be done before power mods, etc.
But again, everything is subject to change (except safety and reliability) depending on the car you have and the type of sport you’re competing in.
Guys, love your videos!
I have an idea/request.
Could You possibly maybe review a popular rally game/sim and how it compares to real life?
Such as Dirt Rally 2, or Richard Burns Rally?
Many of us only have the possibility to train virtually before we can afford to join your rally school someday
Dirt Rally 2 is a big improvement over the first one!
Please review the rally simulators, Team O'Neil!
@@gamingtierce4338 is there less reuse of track assets? in the first game they reuse the same corner etc a lot its like they put the track together like a puzzle reusing many parts multiple times.
Guys gtfo they won't analize your crap, dirt is not even a simulator, it's an arcade! A dirt player can learn a lot by playing beamng if he can't drive irl. But it has nothing to do with this channel. There are already ''pro'' drivers (whatever it means... ) Who tested dirt. Some girl even makes UA-cam money by saying she's a pro driver and she quite enjoys dirt
@@timfrolov7891 🤡
Do you think I'd be able to do this with a 2022 Rex? A video with one would be great! Trying to make a decision on what to buy
Good video, nice explanation of the theory of late braking thru corners. Brake balance front to rear can have a huge impact on just how fast you can corner especially when you can adjust on the fly.
I needed this.
Will there be future videos like this for FWD and RWD?
Also, how do I disable ABS?
Under your hood there is a fuse box, open it up and look under the lid. Find the fuse that says abs and pull it. Done.
@@n0z4a243 some cars it is under the dash but same idea :P
**edit also you'll get an ABS light on your dash don't worry about that its just telling you the abs is not working(becuase you pulled the fuse duh).
@@n0z4a243 doesnt work for every model... for subarus 2011+ it gives you a check engine, no traction control no abs and less throttle whe you remove that fuse
90% of cars its under the hood
No one is going to to use a 2011+ for rally unless it's a built rally car, and then in either the WRX or STI you push the button under the dash. My 2013 STI always has it's track mode on
@@n0z4a243 pretty stupid & irresponsible to always drive with your car in track mode.
I guess I have an advantage since I was driving over a decade before I ever had ABS. But how do you left foot brake a manual? I want to know!
Is that Impreza stock height? Would be cool to get some videos in the future about rally suspensions and snow suspensions.
This one is a little taller than stock on Koni shocks, check out ua-cam.com/video/cVzpoF3S48w/v-deo.html
Awesome Alt-berg boots at 1:17!
Thank you.. I have a utv that I'm working with and wanted to get better at drifting with it.. I'll work on the skills you have presented and let you know how it goes
Awesome vid. Do one with rear wheel!!!
Would love to bring my wrx to the course, practice and learn what i haven't learned yet. not saying im a genius on this because i have limited experience on back roads (all the ones around me are pretty much straight farm roads) but i know how to handle a vehicle on loose surfaces. As long as i got good tires lol
Very interesting videos.
I'm slowly putting money aside and hopefully in a few years start doing rally myself.
So can left foot breaking be a good tool for rwd and also whats the best diff I could have for a rwd rally car on a budget
Can you possibly do a video on getting started with an automatic awd? I know its not a perfect rally setup but its all some of us have for starters lol
Don't even bother 😂😂😂😂
I have a 1986 Toyota Corolla SR5, 70hp RWD, I usually drive on mountain roads going downhill because I don't exactly have uphill horsepower, and I was wondering how left foot braking could help my driving on a paved road.
Helps to get oversteer. I have an 80HP RWD car too and it can be fun
you have fried tofu in the trunk?
Uh... how do you get to the top of the hill in the first place?
@@tomassosaoconnor during weight shifts right?
@@madmax9009 I don't have a dad, so no one makes tofu for me 😔😂
Does team o'neil do give aways for their courses?
Please do a video on how to left foot brake and do heel-toe downshifts. Having a difficult time figuring out when/where to transition from one to the other for max speed thru a corner.
They have those actually
Zuniga Dragon Can u link me pls
Thanks for the info. My brother used to hit me if I used my left foot to brake (that’s for the clutch!). It’s a hard habit to break, but obviously it will be worth it.
How do I disable the automatic transmission? Any suggestions?..
Sorry it’s not patched yet it still stalls your engine occasionally
For gravel and snow should I do king lifted or king stock height springs? Thank you.
Think it will be very interested to show how to do this on a Turbo Forester, in a terms of higher weight point.
"You can't build a house on a swamp"
(Shrek has entered the chat)
Looking to get either a Mazda 3 turbo awd or a Genesis G70 awd. Which would rally better?
Would I crazy to skip the G70's limited slip diff in favor of the lighter and nimbler Mazda?
That's one mean bugeye. I'm normally more partial to the blob eyes, but yours doesn't look derpy. Maybe it's you pushing it like a boss!
I watch these videos (hope) to get better at dirt rally
Excellent video!
Great content!!
fwd or rwd or anything else? what else is there? as an enby Im intrigued
How do you downshift before a turn while using left foot braking? Do you downshift and engine brake before or while the corner?
In a race car, there's very little engine braking used, because the actual brakes slow you down so much better. Typically you would come in hot, get on the brakes to scrub speed and rotate, then shift in the corner so you have power for the apex.
Audi has a rear diff which is controlled by ABS. Still worth to disconnect the ABS and lose that traction on corners and getting the car moving?
I need those sparco special competition boots to get that driving level. It remembers me a video of ayrton senna kicking the throttle of a nsx with sissy fancy shoes but in hardcore mode.
Just a simple question. How do you do it with ABS ? (legacy mark 4, 2.0R)
It only takes a minute to pull the ABS fuse.
@@Teamoneilrally which one would you take off ? The one inside the engine-boxe fuse or the one inside the intérior fuse boxe ? In ordre to keep the brake balance, without "material" rear brake repartitor, but électronic brake repartitor function paired with ABS calculator.
With a Subaru Impreza or WRX, we pull them both. The brake balance isn't absolutely perfect, but its not bad at all.
You guys are awesome!
Love this channel!
Which benefits left foot braking has on rwd cars?
Give you some control in an oversteer and understeer situation, changing balance, but with not so much overlap with the gas because you'll have too much oversteer
Spiros Aliprantis you can stay on your buddies’ doors all day really smooth while going sideways 😃
Cool video. It would be cool to learn how to rally a FWD car too given that's what I have.
What do you think about rbr ?
Ngp?
@@Blue-X yeah
Excellent vid
Does midcorner LFB cause understeer in RWD cars and oversteer in FWD cars? Or is it more up to the chassis tuning?
You can use LFB to cure understeer in any car, it's just tricky in a RWD because it is usually much easier to lock up the front tires so you have to be pretty gentle on the brake. Most RWD rally cars have adjustable brake bias and run a lot more rear brake than you'd find in a street car, this makes it a lot easier to brake in corners and on slippery roads.
@@Teamoneilrally Ahh okay, thanks!
do you have any tips for rallying a lancer with sst transmission?
Trade it in for a GSR before that $12,000 TC-SST shells out.
Can you make a video with tips to train left foot braking with manual transmission
Rally school?!? Where do I sign up?
Thanks for those kind of video, love to watch them! Very helpfull to ! I want more :D
What fuses should I pull ,I’ve done abs already
Where are you at and what dose the school charge
We are based in Dalton, NH. Check out, teamoneil.com for more information.
Can you guys make a video of the re
Thanks for the video!! So awesome!!
Do (same size and weight) awd cars need more power compared to a fwd or rwd ones to rally?
If you had the same size, weight, and power... The AWD would feel a little slower, just because of the driveline. More moving pieces, CV shafts, differentials, etc.
awesome video, thank you.
Man, I really wanna get good in driving.. Long live Wyatt!
Is it bad to practice left foot braking in my automatic daily driver?
In an automatic car, there's no reason not to LFB all the time. Two pedals, two feet, too easy.
I'd love to do this stuff with my Impreza but I couldnt let myself do that to the paint job
I loved the video!
Where are you guys at?
I love my wrx but im only comfortable driving fast on dry and wet asphalt.
Dirt i understeer alot and snow i get a little spinny sometimes. Abs dont help
We're in New Hampshire, check out www.teamoneil.com
Is there anyway to get a discount? 😅 All I wanna do is rally but I dont have that much money lol
The only helper my subaru has is abs for daily driving. I find i can still brake hard without it kicking on. It only likes to kick on when im on ice which is odd
I have one question. How can you drive with those mountain climbing boots. Every time I try i cant understand witch pedal i am pressing.
He’s a driving Jedi
It's easier to drive in hiking boots than walk around in a NH winter in driving shoes!
Learn how to down shift in conere😊shift too
won’t the var stall every time you brake too hard and lock the wheels if you have abs disabled?
You usually disable the servo too, so you have very good control on brakeing force
Anders R no, the wheels aren’t that easy to lock up with the throttle open since most brake servos are vacuum based systems so with the throttle closed you have power brakes and with the throttle open you essentially don’t. A lot more force on the brake pedal is required to lock the wheels up. In addition, you’ll be on the throttle and relatively high up the rev range.
How much is a week at the school?
Please make a video why the old wrc-s has a unike turbo flutter. and how to make our street cars sound like a bugeye subaru wrc when off thorthle.(if it possible)
You don't want that on a street car. Those pops you here are anti lag systems that burn fuel in the turbo to keep them spooled when you let off the gas. These destroy turbos though so don't.
I have a 2014 expedition, can I rally with it??
Building your house on Ground Zero will nicely blasted ;)
If making this all do you have to switch off the attraction control
Спасибо, интересное видео, пойду гонять по снегу на своей WRX ловируя между медведями на моноциклах
I just discovered rallying. My dream at this moment is to play around in a tricked out Subie Impreza. My reality is learnin the ropes w/ my nice lil Toyota Yaris. Is it really necessary to disconnect abs and all that?
Also is it horrible if you use an Auto transmission?
The Yaris is perfect, we start everyone in stock Ford Fiestas for a day and a half before they get into the Subarus here
I would definitely recommend disabling everything you can (or putting it on a toggle switch if you're crafty)
And the auto trans is actually great to learn on because you can focus on left foot braking completely
Have fun and just remember: ALWAYS LOOK DOWN THE ROAD WHERE YOU WANT TO GO when you start sliding around