2k vs 12k: Can you see? Elegoo Saturn 3 resolution tests
Вставка
- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
- Can you actually SEE tiny details from a 12k Resin 3D Printer? It's tricky - but there are clear differences: textures and surfaces look different at naked eye. For people that paint their 3D miniatures and for people that make Jewelry using Castable Resins, such high resolution is a blessing!
Affiliate links:
🔥 Elegoo Saturn 3 12k:
▶︎ geni.us/Saturn3 (Elegoo Store)
Comes with fully transparent nFEP release film
🔥 Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra 12k:
▶︎ geni.us/Saturn3Ultra (Elegoo Store)
The "Ultra" has Wifi, ACF release film and a 4-point levelling system
The Saturn 3 and Saturn 3 Ultra have the same resolution and generous big build-plate.
📦 Elegoo Resin 3D Printers on Amazon:
▶︎ geni.us/V4QC
If you are beginning, the Mars 3 is an excellent choice!
🔬Microscope: Andonstar AD407
▶︎ geni.us/AD407 (on Amazon)
7 inch LCD Screen - excellent to inspect your resin prints
Resins I used in this video:
Elegoo ABS-Like Resin 2.0 - Grey
▶︎ geni.us/imJEmkB (on Amazon)
(Fillenium Malcons, Magneto bust, Proxima Deer)
Sunlu Nylon Like Resin - Grey
▶︎ geni.us/J7tIf8P (on Amazon)
(15% Darth Vader bust on grey, 30% Darth Vader bust)
Elegoo Plant-Based Resin - Black
▶︎ Out of Stock?? Discontinued??
(Rooks, black Tiny Darth Vader bust, Exposure Tests)
Washing and Curing stations are life-changing for Resin 3D Printing:
- Mercury X Bundle
▶︎ geni.us/MercuryXBundle (Elegoo Store)
▶︎ geni.us/XKRX (on Amazon)
- As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
- Elegoo sent me the Saturn 3 for review, I didn't buy it myself. Thanks Elegoo!
- I was not paid to produce this video. This content is 100% the way I envisioned it.
_______________________________________________
List of Super Textured Models:
(RPG Characters) Awesome Minis from Loot Studios
lootstudios.com
(Crusted) Thunderpeak Cyclops
www.myminifactory.com/object/...
(Rusted) Danny Trejo - known for Machete, Heat, Desparado, etc - by Sid Naique
www.sidnaique.com/product-pag...
(Twisted) Twisting Terror
www.myminifactory.com/object/...
(Clothy) "Dress Girl" from Anycubic* Photon Ultra DLP launch
/ 1091592457913542
*Anycubic never released the STL model for the public
(Leathered) SSRALL HALFBLOODS 3 from Mammoth Factory Games
www.mammothfactorygames.com/n...
(Wrinkled) Tommy Lee Jones - by Sid Naique
www.sidnaique.com/product-pag...
(Aged) The Hag's House by Loot Studios
• Painting an AWESOME 3D...
www.myminifactory.com/object/...
This is a huge model for Filament 3D Printers
_______________________________________________
Fillenium Malcon
www.thingiverse.com/thing:919475
Original-satellite-dish-with-landing-gear.stl printed at 30% of it's original size
Make: Rook - 2015 3D Printer Shoot Out Test Models
I printed at 50mm tall (just like the Elegoo Rooks test comes pre-sliced)
- www.thingiverse.com/thing:533652
Buste of Ian McKellen as Magneto (free), by Pascal Ackermann
www.myminifactory.com/es/obje...
Resized to 50% of the original stl
Darth Vader bust by Eastman
www.myminifactory.com/object/...
Printed at 15% of its original size, then at 30% (chess-set size-like)
Exposure Test Models:
Resin XP2 Validation Matrix
github.com/Photonsters/Resin-...
Phrozen XP Finder
helpcenter.phrozen3d.com/hc/e...
Siraya Tech Test Model V5
siraya.tech/pages/siraya-tech...
- I will still add subtitles in English, Spanish and Portuguese
_______________________________________________
Written, Performed and Produced by Everson Siqueira
I use royalty-free music from Epidemic Sound:
👉 geni.us/IW1NyB
Sign up with my link to get 10% discount on your first 12 months
The first 30 days are free
#ElegooSaturn #3DPrinter #ElegooSaturn3 - Наука та технологія
Part 2: Saturn 3 vs Saturn 2
The improvements go beyond resolution:
ua-cam.com/video/K5rgU09SGjg/v-deo.html
With 12k you need to start adding way more texture otherwise it looks like a condom, more work.
For jewelry sure, but still need to polish, so same amount of work.
What resin you are using for the prints? Im struggling to find a resin
Now compare with a REAL SLA printer and get truly amazed.
w8 til we can print cells then we can manufacture organs for people who need them. and if we use the dna and cell from the peron it will be 0% rejection rate.
This is such a good observation. Similarly as a photographer I often noticed how adding a bit of grain to a photo increases the perception of sharpness, detail and contrast.
Exactly! Isn't it very weird?? Great point!
@@GeekDetour It's called dithering, it's used in audio production too.
I do that too in every photo. I add in the end 1% gaussian monochromatic noise. it just pops.
The value of being able to print shiny surfaces should not be under estimated.
Absolutely! I really want to start painting resin miniatures - but I had my share of painting some plastic Revell kits and it was so much more polished than the average surface of resin prints I saw so far… I was very impressed with how much better antialiasing got with 20 microns!
@@GeekDetour Now I want textures on purpose. Like those UV maps for 3D rendering. Give the printer a less detailed model and then add the texture map to it. would make it really interesting to print matte or smooth surfaces on purpose
I feel like sandpaper could solve this with a lot less expense. I'm sure you have a friend or family member who doesn't want to do a real job, so they could do that for a minimal fee. Shit, you could probably pay them in snacks or something. We all know at least one.
Son, what a pleasure to see this new video, love the pace of your voice, and the details , congrats for the dedication and great quality! Keep on the great job❤
Hey mom! So good that you found the video! Thank you very much! 🤗❤️
Layer height probably makes as much difference as the "headline" resolution. Also it's the DPI rather than the overall resolution that would matter more since printers tend to have a larger print area these days.
When I talk about resolution, the important number is “microns” (the size of individual pixels). That’s why, throughout the video, every time I say “2k” I am displaying “50 microns” on the screen, 4K usually are used on 35 micron printers and 12k on the Saturn 3 goes for approximately 20 microns.
You should start uploading these in 4k. 1080p isn't enough to show that level of detail.
I think that, specially for this video, you are right… But I need a better computer to edit in 4K…
Soooo good to see you back here big brother! All the efforts are materializing in high quality videos!!! Congrats!!!
Hi Bro!!!! Tell me about it! It was SO overdue... But things are now in motion and the new Studio/Workshop is functional.
I think this is the best comparison video of 2k vs higher res printers, that I have seen so far. Great job.
Thanks! 🤗❤️ It turns out 50 microns makes amazing prints - it was not far away from what we could distinguish as “details” with our naked eyes. I feel we are getting close to not needing more resolution on consumer printers. The Saturn 3 is the sweet spot for me in terms of print size and resolution: 20 microns is exceptional.
Amazing video as usual! Love the style of your videos, the topics, colors in background (studio), quality of video and audio, and manuscript! Great work! Im a 3d modeler artist, and thinking of get a 3d printer.
Oh, thank you! Very kind words and I appreciate them! If you are a 3D Artist you should definitely have a 3D Printer - it is an amazing satisfaction to have in your hands an object that you designed in the computer… and it’s there, materialized on your hands.
The sound on the new studio is still very bad (not so much when I am making voice over off camera, because the Mic was literally at my tongue reach) But when I am talking to the camera you hear LOTS of reverberation and it is very distracting. I have the materials to build my sound panels - but it was time to resume publishing videos even if I don’t have everything sorted out yet.
Finally a good comparison. I actually wanted to buy the Saturn 2 for my miniature, but thanks to your video I now know that the Saturn 3 is more suitable for me. Thank you!
Thanks!!! 😁 If you can pay for the difference, I think more resolution is always worth it. Also, the Saturn 3 comes with a license for the VoxelDance Tango Slicer - which is a nice deal, and the printer is completely silent when it is not printing (standby). I am almost finishing the 2nd part where I compare the Saturn 2 with 3
Agree ....I moved from qidi 6.08 printer to Elegoo saturn 3 Ultra and the difference is amazing in all surfaces.
One of the better 3D printing videos I've seen. It highlights some important points.
Oh, thanks! It means a lot to me ❤️
I am FINALLY BACK!!! 8 months since a proper 3D printing video. You guys deserve an explanation: we bought a big old house (emphasis on the old) with a bunch of fixings to be done. It is out of the city (you will probably hear birds on my videos now) - and I have a DEDICATED SPACE for my Studio/Workshop. Sound still needs much improvement... but I could not wait anymore to get back to posting videos. Thank you so much for your patience. Hey, if you have any questions, just write and I will answer everything!
It's all good fam!
Sonic Pad Update after 8 Months?
@djispro4272
Sonic Pad after 8 months: it always worked solid for me. I always accepted the updates and they worked fine - I follow the Facebook Sonic Pad users group and I know some people had problems… My perception is that it happens less often. My experience was extremely positive. I still need to add a second (and even a 3rd) printer on the Sonic Pad to have a feel on how ir runs multiple printers.
We all want Creality to open-source their fork of Klipper… I hope they do it. I don’t see a reason not to do it - the Sonic Pad is s great product and it stands on its own, just by the convenience of the hardware they put together on a decent price.
I would love to test the BigTreeTech Pad 7 too - if they send me one I will happily review it.
Hi! I've watched a lot of reviews of anycubic m5s and saturn 3 ultra (you can count them on your fingers), which show less high-quality prints than on 8k printers, but I can see from your video that the prints are very clear! I can't decide for myself what to buy: m5s or saturn 3 ultra - for me, first of all, the clarity of the prints is important
@dishierosprey2798 I think the ACF film that comes on the Ultra (also comes on the Anycubic 12k) is the culprit. The Saturn 3 (not ultra) comes with a transparent NFEP. Check the exposure tests I did: 4:08 They might provide some comparison to what other videos are speculating about the ACF. I cannot test ACF myself because I don’t have it.
Thank you so much for this test and information!
I am glad you enjoyed it 😁
this actually really helped me out. i was waffling between getting the saturn 3 and the the Jupiter SE i was thinking about the bigger build potential. and while i am absolutely buying this to print minis and terrain and other models for my DND games i might also need that smooth finish from the 12k. so its good to know how small the difference in microns the actual build is gonna be. but yeah i also liked the smooth almost polished finish on those models.
Looks like the time you spent on your new studio was worthy.
Congrats for a great video!
Hi Teacher! 🤗❤️ Thanks for watching! The studio still needs tweaking: needs sound panels to kill the reverberations and lots of organizing - but it will come with time 😄
100% agree. As a hobby artist. I often just use scribbles (yep, plain old scribbles) to fill texture in. It's just a scribble - which, alone, is often frowned on - but in context, scribbles can add incredible depths of texture. Perception is ridiculous.
Fascinating comparison,thank you
My pleasure!!!
Happy to see you back! 🚀
Hey @MihaiDesigns - so good to see you here ❤️ Yeah! New studio still needs lots of improvements, but it is workable now, so yeah! 🚀🧨🤘
My dear wife bought me the Saturn 3 ultra for Christmas. Coming from a nova elfin 2 mono SE 2k to a 12k is like night and day. Printed and painted 100mm models of Ciri and Geralt for a client and compared them to the nova... There's no competition there...
Thank you for your work.
Thanks! Enjoy your new toy 😄 Absolutely. It’s interesting to remember what some people said when the first 4K printers arrived: “oh! You cannot notice the difference from 50 microns to 35 microns… 2k is already enough”. Then you compare 2k with 12k (50 microns vs 20) and the difference of course is there. So, higher resolution is surely making resin prints better… we can discuss if it is worth the price difference, but it changes the quality of the print. When we get to 10 microns there will be people saying it is beyond perceivable difference… That’s silly of course.
So happy to see a new video
Hi Duller! Oh man, yeah! This is the first video of a new Era: now I have a dedicated workshop/studio space. It still needs improvements (specially on sound) but it will be so much easier and faster to make the videos I love!
Was waiting for a video such as this. Waiting for my delivery 🚚
Oh, when will it be delivered?
Great video brother
Thanks!
Great videos wich shows what i think is the most important when we wanr to see printer performance : nice macro shots. Thanks for sharing
Your comment made me SO HAPPY 🤗🥰 Absolutely! If we are not seeing close enough to see layer lines, we are just appreciating how beautiful the models are 🤷♂️🤣
Thank you for your video man, i learned something usefull
That’s great! Thanks 🤗❤️
The 50 vs 20 micron Magnito is interesting because I actually prefer for the 50 micron version for his skin but the 20 micron version for the armor. If I had to guess as to why I'd say 50 microns for skin looks very close to Subsurface Scattering.
Exactly! That’s the type of subtlety that I love and that’s the reason for me to look at things on a microscope and understand what’s going on reeeeally close. Sure, prints will be seen at naked eyes, ultimately. But, yeah, finer resolutions will change how surfaces look - and I hope future versions of the slicers allow us to chose different skin “patterns” to be applied to flat models.
man, amazing video!
Thank you!! ❤️
Btw, you could always make a hirez printed models to looks more mate just by editing model and adding distortion in the places you want. Actually, by this technique you could combine shiny and mate parts.
Very insightful! Liked and subscribed.
Welcome aboard! 🤗❤️ Thanks!
Not into resin printers at all but this was very very interesting, thank you it’s good to see the differences
I am glad you enjoyed it 🤗 Resin Printers make jaw-dropping pieces - it’s quite fun to see something that looks like an actual fabricated part coming out of a machine on your desk.
I was missing your videos!
Oh, very kind!! I finally have now a dedicated studio space. More videos on the pipeline!
So great Video!
Glad you liked it! ❤️ Thanks!
Excellent video!!
Glad you liked it! ❤️🤗
really good thoughts on the topic that very few people ask themselves.
Thanks!!! And Merry Christmas 🎄 🎁
fantastic video
Thanks!!! 🤗
I think that the step lines visible in the 2K print of the Falcon can be solved, pretty easily, with a different orientation of the model on the buildplate first, but a WAY lower layer height will make the most difference here. Those lines look a lot more like ordinairy layer lines to me. Can you do a side by side comparison of the two printers printing the exact same model with the exact same settings, at least when it comes to exposure time and layer height? I have an original Anycubic Photon Mono, which has a 2K screen and my prints definitely don't have artifacts THAT visible.
I do like the look of that shiny model, but I also like to paint my mini's and for some reason, My mind keeps thinking the matte one would take a couple of coats of paint better 😅
Hi there! Those were not layer lines - the model was printer vertically, so, what you see is the actual distance between each pixel. Vertical was an excellent orientation because most supports were just at the back of the model.
Welcome back!
Hey! Thanks!!!! ❤️🤗
Awesome video! I want one!
Thanks!!! 3D Printers are unbelievably better and cheaper now than when I began messing with it.
Finally, this technology gets improved
With that resolution the software really needs to be updated to add material surface finish properties that can be applied to individual surfaces of the model.
Essentially controlling the level of noise to vary between glossy and matte surfaces.
It makes sense - what I really wanted is to be able to apply something like “fuzzy skin”, to make a completely flat/smooth object become textured like many injection molded rough textures - without the need to bake this finish on the STL itself.
Will standard resin still give good results?? or do you have to use a prefered resin?
What configuration should I use on the Saturn 3 Ultra with standard 8K photopolymer resin?
At some resolution the surface tension should dissolve the pixels altogether. Maybe in the future they'll use dynamic pixels for even better antialiasing. Or they move the screen to achieve superresolution.
Wow! I LOVE this type of sci-fi ideation about the future! Delicious 😋 Thanks!!!
I think surface tension gets more noticeable on "macro" (big scale) not on micro... where it should be less noticeable since the less mass the less noticeable behaviour... after all you dont count other layers only the current layer as the previous one is supposed to be already solid.
I can see distortions on both models for the cannons one cannon seems to be distorted in both models more so in the lower 2K Model and the distortions do vary from the beginning seemingly for the same models too. So, how did that happen, was it during curing or removing supports if any?
The Ships were printed upright (nose up, vertical), so the Canons and most of everything didn’t have any supports. They are so, soooo small! Did you see the matchstick close to them? The canons are more delicate and thin than most support’s connection points.
If you're painting your models the rougher and lower resolution one should be better since the paint will stick better to it. In theory at least, don't know how big the difference is in practice though.
I have a theory that you can use something like a cheap 2k screen with a reducer lens, that way you can "shrink" the image output and get micron or even sub-micron sizes, just can't figure out what type of lens or stack up to use in order to counter-act the distortion.
Oh, some expensive DLP printers work just like this. They don’t have a super big image array, but they project to a quite small build plate - used in dental and jewelry printing.
When will I ever be looking at my prints through a microscope
Oh, I look at things on a Microscope all the time 😄 On the shelf? Never. I agree with you. But more resolution indeed change how the surface looks and reflects light.
As a backend dev, I appreciate your desire for rigor despite subjective perception.
Thanks!
the very first comparison already marks why higher resolution is necessary for those of us printing mechs and tanks, the the large amounts of flat curved surfaces that you can't sand *require* at least 30um to be able to get something that looks nice
Interesting! Didn’t occur to me, but, true! Tanks have lots of flat surfaces and depending on the angle, you can get plenty of visible steps!
@@GeekDetour Imo it's more the "smooth" surfaces than the flat ones, a flat surface can be sanded smooth, but if you got lots of voxel lines on a smooth surface that's curved in a couple ways and might have smaller details breaking it up into small sections, you can't sand it off, and the way tanks and mechs are, you can't compensate with the proper orientation because there will always be several of these surfaces in a bad orientation
Ayy! You're back!
Oh yeah! I hope that forever now - be bough a house with a dedicated space for my Studio / Workshop... It still needs A LOT of work, but it has been already amazing! I can do all the mess I want without making my wife crazy 🤣
@@GeekDetour Little bit of a question: Do you prefer gold textured PEI sheet, the black textured PEI sheet, carborundum glass plate or the fake Buildtak flexible sheet included with CE3 Pro? I am deciding on these, as I want to get a spare print surface for my Neptune 3...
For some time already my favorite build plate surface is the Flexible Steel Sheet with Textured PEI (gold looking, as you pointed out) - pretty much like the Neptune 3, Neptune 3 Pro and Neptune 4 Pro come with.
The black PEI powdered steel sheet also worked great for me - I used one of them A LOT with my Ender 3… but it started looking ugly on the videos (after much abuse).
I printed with Glass on the past - besides being heavier, big models are hard to take out… my glass started chipping out here and there…
@@GeekDetour I have been using the Gold PEI sheet on my Neptune 3 and have only had about 3 failures, all of which were my fault since 2 times it wasn't clean enough and once it was bad orientation (all my fault). I would definitely like to try something else out, but gold PEI seems to be king. Thank you for sharing your experience!
One thing is also that you can always print at a lower resolution if you choose to but on the 4k model but cant increase it on the 2k one.
geez his calibration prints are so crisp it's insane.
Thank you!!! 🤗
Curious friend, what resin is used on the jet black phrozen exposure tests?
Oh, sure! All black pieces were Elegoo Plant Based Resin Black
i'm still a bit unsure, me and some of my friends want to buy a resin printer to make some wh40k minis and tabletop rpg character. Should we always focus on smaller resolution or is there a point where its basically pointless to go too small ?
Hi! So, build area to me is the first thing to look, as well as price. The Saturns have a very decent print size, considering it is a resin printer (the first resin printers had very small build volumes). You should also consider that a cleaning and curing station helps A LOT… also, you might want to buy a few different resin bottles, so, costs add up. If everything fits your budget, sure, resolution (pixels with less microns), the finer, the better. I don’t see a limitation for “oh, that is silly and nobody notices”… We are now in the point that the most visible difference is surface quality, no so much “sharpness”.
thanks a lots for these advices@@GeekDetour
Wow, the difference is incredible actually. It looks similar on the video in your fingers, but when zoomed its night and day.
Yeah, it is surreal. It makes the point about which distance you see things matter a lot too.
hi there thanks for the video.i bought a m5s but there is a problem that freak me out.after awhile of printing it gives an error 1101 screen fault and printing fails.
can you help me with that??
Hi there! Oh… I don’t have an M5S, did you search for error 1101??? Maybe contact Anycubic support. Good luck, my friend!
El momento en que descubro que eres español por la caja de las Tres Estrellas... 😂😂 Vídeo muy ilustrativo y educativo para los nuevos usuarios de impresoras como yo. ¡Mil gracias!
Muchas Gracias! Muy bien observado! Casi, casi! 😄 Si, vivo en España 🇪🇸 y me encanta! Pero vengo desde Brasil 🇧🇷
Hello. But can you tell me if you paint that shinier model and regular low resolution model wold you still see the difference in terms of shininess?
Yeah! That’s a very interesting question! I still don’t have a painting workbench - but it is in my list of investigation!
Do you think higher resolution also equals more water and air tight prints? I would think the smoother the surface, the better a functional 3D print could contain water or gas without any leaking through "pixel roughness"....
That’s an excellent question! I am much more into functional printing than mini-figures… I have a project on my list that will deal with liquids and a peristaltic pump - I cannot wait to try these things for myself. Right now I can only give a rhetorical answer: “yes, smoother certainly better for liquids and gas”… But maybe 50 microns is already good enough… or maybe 20 microns still doesn’t cut it… I guess it will depend a lot on which liquid you are dealing with, and the pressure… and the material of the tubes/connections with the resin parts. I would LOVE to watch videos about this type of applications with resins!
Logic leads to me to think that less resolution would be better... Is just like thinking on how many welds do you want on a tube.. the lesser the better.
in theory more pieces/cuts/layers means more chances of small problems (even if microscopic) more problems equals to more breaking points that potentially could help to create a leakage with pressure.
@@BioClone Yep! The importance of this cannot be overestimated. Each sharp corner is a point of concentration of destructive efforts. In the resistance of materials, it is recommended to make loaded elements with both blunt corners and rounded lines.
Or the standard way to block further crack propagation is to drill a hole in it at the very end, because the energy will dissipate into a larger diameter of the hole.
But this is a theory, and as Einstein said - in theory, theory and practice are the same thing, but in practice they are completely different things. lol. I would like to see thoughtful and comprehensive destruction tests for printing with different resolutions.
For collectible figurines, this idea is probably not important, but if you print something like pump parts or mechanisms, then strength will be extremely important there and the dependence of strength on resolution can only be determined by experiments.
I would like to know if the Z resoution evolves similar to the screen?
Explenation: when the screen is X/Y and you print a circle, than higher resolution leads to a more soft stepless shape. so every body loves screen resolution.
However also printing the circle in Z (as a half dome) the same stepeffect is caused by the precision of the lifter. From my experiance here is where most groovetextures emerge.
Actually, the Z resolution has been potentially higher that X/Y during all these years. People normally print at a 50 microns layer heigh (0,05mm)… but all Resin Printers can do 0.01 layer heigh (10 microns), but very few people do that because it takes A LOT more time to print. In this sense, increase in XY is always celebrated because it is a quality improvement that doesn’t increase printing time.
Perfect.
why did you printed the vader bust in different resins? Kinda makes the comparison bad
This would be very interesting with transparent resin. Because there any tiny imperfection causes refraction, making it looking cloudy
That’s interesting to test! Never bought transparent resin 🤔
Sensational 🎉
Thanks man 🤗
very smart man👍
Thanks! Very kind words ❤️
I really like Elegoo space gray colour however it is only 8k resin whitch is more expensive. I have Anycubic Photon Mono a 2k printer. Are there any advantages in using 8k resin on 2k printer?
Hi 👋 So, the Gray resins are very powdery - when I began printing with Resin I was surprised that the Elegoo’s Plant-Based Black did a SO MUCH BETTER job at reproducing the tiny details of the AmeraLabs and all the Exposure tests… and the Gray resins couldn’t print the same tiny hair features. 8k Gray Resins are probably more expensive because they use a much finer powder as filler/color. I noticed the difference already when I was using the Mars 3 (which is a 4K, 35 microns resolution printer), but even on a 50 microns printer I saw the black resin doing better than regular Gray… That’s a long answer for: “yes, 8k resins get finer details” BUT, do you notice it? Ultimately, you are the one that must draw the line.
About price: i am about to try some Sunlu resins myself - already saw some reviews… looks like an excellent price/quality ratio. You should try.
@@GeekDetour Thanks. For now I bought a 100g sample of elegoo 8k (for some reason I got 500g in package) ang I will Try Sunlu later as well
good video but have you considered that some people will apply a spray of lacquer to their prints- wouldn't that smooth things out?
Oh, absolutely, but if the print is already smoother, it will need less lacquer and the piece will retain more details.
Are you printing each of these tests at the same layer height for both printers? If not it would seem like an unfair comparison to me.
Oh, yes: the ships were printed pointing UP. The difference on the “stair effect” was the X/Y resolution, not different layer height. Both were printed at 0.05
That pretty cool. I want one to print figures
It’s fun 🤩 when I make my new workshop better organized, I want to start painting resin models - I think it gets really interesting when you get into painting.
We really should be measuring resin printers in PPI instead of resolution. When it comes to showing how fine they can print. You can have a 4k screen on 2 different machines, but it will look worse on the larger machine of the same resolution
Oh, that’s why I mention the size of the pixels in Microns. We are talking about 24 microns Y and 19 microns X in the case of the Saturn 3. You can also convert microns to PPI, to fulfill a different mindset.
Is there any way to get rid of that bowing shown at @4:09
As the precision of the machine continues to improve, artificial textures may be used to simulate a frosted finish in order to express the reflective nature of different material surfaces, or to simulate a frosted finish in order to express the reflective nature of different material surfaces.
I hope future versions of the Resin Slicers allow us to chose texture patterns for plain surfaces - so we don’t need to have everything baked into the STL geometry.
@@GeekDetourprecisely
I have only ever used an FDM printer (i forget what that stands for, but the kind with filament and extruder) and have never really looked at resin printers. This stuff is absolutely insane
Absolutely! Detail-wise, resin printers are unbeatable. At naked eye you don’t see layer lines, it looks like a smooth injection mounded solid piece. I rarely print in resin because there is so much involved: printing, washing, drying, removing supports, curing… but when I use them I always keep looking at the parts in awe 🫢
So cool.
Thanks!
I wonder if is possible to mix shiny and non shiny surfaces in a single print.
You could probably add roughness back into the piece itself and create that finish, given the resolution. 🤔
I don't even want to mess with that resin but that's awesome indeed. I mess around with fdm but it's mostly drone related things.
Yeah, Resin offers amazing detailed prints - but the process is a bit messy with several steps until you finally get a part clean in your hand 🤣 I like them - but I use Resin way less than FDM.
Cones of calibration with 1 failure side cone almost touching is ideal I found. What they consider a successful exposure leads to about 1KG of wasted resin
I think I agree with you - specially for bigger prints. The person that designed the Cones of Calibration seems to be focused on miniatures.
I'm stuck in dark ages with my ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro 😊
How much quicker can I produce results in higher resolutions with this model?
If you are specially interested in speed, the Saturn 3 ULTRA would be a better choice: the mechanics and the ACF release film are suited to print quite faster than a Mars 2. Elegoo says it could print up to 150mm vertical in 1 hour with specific resins.
I 3d print props from games and movies/pop culture, and the less sanding the better! My Saturn 3 Ultra should be coming in soon!
Absolutely! It doesn’t matter it the improvement is “just” 20% like some people say… The prices of these printers are getting lower everytime and the quality is constantly improving. Elegoo makes 3D printing more accessible every time.
4:06 what u spraying to get the thing of plate? IPA?
Yes! IPA. My washing station is with a dreadfully dirty alcohol (I need to recycle it, taking the worst part out), so, the only way now for me to get a really clean print is spraying alcohol directly on the parts.
This is interesting. Othe reviews imply the surface is NOTshiny. Did you do anything differently?
It probably will also depend on the resin you are printing with. The ABS-Like 2.0 from Elegoo got quite reflective and smooth-feeling like plastic when printed on the Saturn 3 with antialiasing. Actually, even on the Mars 3 I had already noticed this trend. But at 50 microns it looked very frosted and diffuse.
Yesterday I printed a few things with the Phrozen “Acqua” Grey 8k (that’s a color, not water washable) and the resin is very velvety/matte - even on the Saturn 3. Prints beautiful, but it looks less specular on the reflections.
These differences are amazing to me and that’s something I started discussing already on my Mars 3 review: ua-cam.com/video/GDnyL0TGGWM/v-deo.html
I guess it's similar to how many 90s games and film CGI practical effects look more realistic than today - they looked rougher and grittier whereas new CGI tends to be too perfect, too flawless, even when making imperfections.
Is it possible to print a slightly rough surface to achieve a matte look?
Eventually, with super extreme resolution, 3D Artists might resort to introducing the desired texture on the STL itself.
It would be interesting if slicers for resin models started implementing different “skin” modes - just like Cura did with “fuzzy skin” on FDM printers.
@@GeekDetour Guess in the meantime airbrushing with matte (transparent) paint is the way to go.
so saturn 3 has nfep film, saturn 3 has acf film? You're sure? Then prints by saturn 3 with nfep more clarity than by saturn 3 ultra with acf?
I never tried the ACF film myself (the one that comes on the Saturn 3 Ultra). The Saturn 3 comes with a very transparent NFEP film (just like the Saturn 2). I saw a couple of videos showing exposure tests that didn’t print so nicely on the ACF films, as if it was a bit “blurred”. I don’t have how to test it myself yet… but what was shown makes sense: ACF is “milky” and might diffuse light. BUT, ACF allows to print faster and easier - I think it is a matter of choice.
Honestly the only way to determine this for real is to test the precision and accuracy.
Ie, dimensional repeatability between prints in addition to the dimensional repeatability of prints relative to the original model.
It looks to me as if we are starting to tread on the territory of "spatial resolution" of the exposed layer being far below the so called spatial resolution of the screen used in the printer. So it's just noise that is smoothing it out, but this blurring might actually effect dimensional accuracy to a degree where the print is a lower resolution than it's predecessor. With respect to resolution I believe wholeheartedly that the production tolerance of a printer is the determining factor in how good it is. Without improvements to final tolerance, pixels are just marketing talk.
This is also the same phenomenon limiting phone cameras, the crappy lenses blur the image over multiple pixels, since the minimum pixels necessary to capture an image is 2 times the spatial resolution of your lens in both the X and Y direction independently. So you can have a 8mp and 20mp camera, but given your phone has a shitty lens the only real difference is that the 20mp camera will run out of storage space faster. I would have to run tests myself, but it looks to me like we might need collimated backlighting to actually print at 12k looks like. Or some other means of reducing divergence/diffusion of the light on the print, like screen pixels that are thicker in the z direction to act like a collimator.
Oh, you will like to know this: the Saturn 2 and 3 have Collimated light source. It is actually a bit weird to see it in practice - take a look: ua-cam.com/video/9dAvDtuyR3c/v-deo.htmlsi=RkMipToeIT3QanwB
@@GeekDetour You are right, This is very interesting. But i'm not sure the light source being collimated will account for diffusion caused at the screen itself, hence thicker pixels in the z direction might make the screen act more like a collimator itself.
Not really my field, but fascinating stuff. Thank you for the link, this does effect my opinion on the Saturns pretty heavily haha. I'm amazed how deeply you go into this stuff!
Thanks!!! ❤️ Researching is really my favorite part in this UA-cam activity 🤣
Odd question, but, does anybody know of anyone that does custom 1/12 scale head sculpts for action figures? Specifically, commissioned portraits of oneself?
I wonder if it is possible to print a part on a 12k printer so that it looks like it was printed on 2k?
Ha ha ha, SURE! With such high resolutions, 3D Artists might choose to introduce different levels of details, and even go "LO RES", and bake cubic, "Minecraft" style surfaces.
Star wars / Millenium Falcon trivia: Adding useless tiny features to flat areas to create visual interest is called "Greebling".
High rez beats everything when you print machine parts that have to work together smoothly, like pistons.
Question IMHO would be, where starts to be moment when for rather ordinary user printing either miniature or parts for scale models, the quality improvement is barely noticeable. We usually do not look at objects under microscope.
There are many printers 2K/4K/8K/12K (different DPI as well). And while prices I can find jumps considerably from basic 2K to 12K model 4K or even 8K in some versions can be more affordable.
Agree: we don't look at them with a microscope. Nonetheless, there is a real improvement on surface quality and Antialiasing where 8k would still show alias patterns. The brand new Saturn 3 12k is sold now cheaper than the first/original Saturn 4k printer. Higher resolution printers will continue to be launched - some people will find the Saturn 3 12k a good deal when the "Saturn 4" is launched 😄
@@GeekDetour sure. Lot of depends what is actual price tag for particular printer and brand. Just wonder if someone will make some test regarding print quality, resolution and technology (i.e. LCD vs DLP). Nut that requires a nice bunch of printers on one bench.
it'd also be amazing for micro aerodynamics like those found in F1 and the like
Is bright orange THE color of 3D printing? Your shirt .. Prusa research color etc. :D
It’s a coincidence - I always loved Orange. Maaaany years ago I had outfits completely in orange (including underwear and shoes) and it certainly didn’t go unnoticed in the office: my colleagues either loved or hated it 🤣
I think your argument can be simply replaced with an analogy of gloss vs mattes finished, the smaller micron your logic of flat geometry like falcon and text are like printing a 2d black and white image then analyse how sharp is the edge boundary. But with some lab experience in digital imaging in a scientific data processing, I feel resolution is the quantitative measurement of resolving small details, similar to smallest font size can to be printed on 2 printers. Any other quality you observed will by inference be compared. I guess that’s why some people prefer to shrink a head sculpt print and see how small will the sculpted pores and fur lines disappear. But thanks for the info you share, when in doubt test print specific to your application is the way to go haha
I guess if one can demonstrate how pores can be resolved in 12 k printer a ridiculous small scale and 2k printer output a pore less surface at same size, the 12 k print would not be shiny anymore, if you catch my drift. So you mphasising on glossy finish is not a universal feature but a happenstance of what you consider main stream application (lod of stl). Since shininess is dependent on ration between stl triangle size/orientation and the printed voxel size. Sorry to spam this, but I think the video is doing good work for prosumer comparing these products! Keep up the good work!
I read both of your comments - and I think I agree with most of what I understood 🤣❤️👍 But that’s on me: English is not my native language.
Cones of calibration results should always be taken with a grain of salt! If you use default settings, and a "normal" resin, you can trust them, but they are setting you up for failure if you use better resins or better settings, as they are all about creating a known failure point. If your resin is stronger, and your settings are better, this known failure point doesn't let you take advantage of those benefits, and will generate weaker prints for no benefit!
Why does all the 12k samples have those strange vertical lines? Like, not boxes, like scratches in the vertical orientation? The 4k and 8k don't have it.
I cannot say for sure because the Saturn 3 12k comes with an NFEP - which is crystal clear transparent. The Saturn 3 Ultra and the Anycubic M5S (if I am not mistaken) come with an ACF release film, that is a bit milky and textured. The ACF releases much easier and faster… but if the model has straight walls, it seems that the micro-texture of the film “drags” vertical lines on the models. That’s the theory a few UA-camrs are considering - I cannot prove because my printer comes with an NFEP. Anyway, the lines seem to be only visible when you use a Microscope, not big enough to be seen at naked eye.
@@GeekDetour the film is the cause then? Interesting... So the Saturn 3 does not cause those vertical lines???
If you run your fingernail over them, can you feel the scratches? Or is it not feelable?
means we're at the resolution where we need to start adding texture to the models.
I want slicers to allow us to chose texture patterns to “paint” the model, instead of baking them in the STL files (Like Cura that allows you to use fuzzy skin on the model).
odd test, use the same colors?
the only thing that will affect the details is the height of the layer if it is well set by the printer
Oh, lots of things affect details: layer height affects A LOT, but exposure time also does, temperature also, and the Resin you use also affects a lot.
I think why the small ship looks more detailed with low resolution is because it kinda makes it looks like metal panels, and since it has no color textures it just looks like a very blank space for a ship, but possibly with way higher poly model with extreme panel detailes the higher resolution printer would be way better.
Those thousands of panels in real life would be stupid since it creates all these weakpoints that would compromise the ship in space or during flight. It's unrealistic
@@Shvetsario Bruh, you ain't gonna make a space ship from one part, so yes there will be panels and parts the ship will be build from, also access to internal parts for repair, so yes, it will have panels. Just look at ISS, you can see panels all over the station.
Maybe they could figure out a way to change the pixel size for different pieces of geometry on the same model.