Thanks for doing a review of this printer. Looks like I lucked out. I bought this printer on preorder and I was praying it didn't suck. I didn't need the most detailed printer in this price bracket, but I just wanted it to work as well as its 8k brother. Turns out the details are in spades. It is nice to know I can push an 8k resin to its limit when I want to print something out really cool. I appreciate your reviews. You are straightforward and not afraid to say the negatives. Please keep up the excellent work.
Thanks man, Elegoo are absolutely killing it at the mo. Now is a very good time to be close to them as a brand. They support my channel less than any other manufacturer does. But even so, they are still releasing the better printers and that’s a fact I can’t possibly deny.
4:00 having bearing on top would actually create more reasons for Z inconsistencies instead of resolving them, free side of a lead screw/ball screw should be held by special floating bearing or not held at all to not get unwanted repeatability issues due to temperature variations, so Elegoo actually made a proper decision to not create issues for looks
Elegoo made the decision because it costs them less, and that's all. They've gotten away with disgusting mechanical misengineering for a long time as should be well known and is well documented, so the burden of proof is on them to prove the effectiveness of some mechanical feature or lack thereof on their printers.
@@retromodernart4426 no, this bearing causes a lot of problem on fdm 3d printers, screw is never ideally straight and if you will fix it in 3 points and try to rotate you can get wobble of z carriage. If screw is high quality and straight enough - this bearing will just do nothing. Sorry for my shitty English.
@@___15 You're absolutely right, I added bearings to the top of my z-axis screws on my fdm several years ago, before it was common knowledge that it's actually detrimental. Have seen it cause "ringing-like" issues first-hand. Much better to let it float around, however unintuitive it is! :D
@@retromodernart4426 they did actually think about usability, those special bearings are a thing for large CNC machines and only used when screw cannot left free for significant reasons
love these videos. you spoke about the influence of the resin used. could you do a video on different resins (the 8k you always show, some cheaper and popular resins and one or two waterwashable resins) used in the same printer. to show the influence of the resin
I am def appointed after getting my saturn 3 ultra! the resin test was 14/14 from the first test and with it all dialed in it makes gorgeous reliable prints
Thanks for the review, much appreciated...so glad I cancelled the M5s and bought the Saturn 3 Ultra 12K...and I already have a new vat for it with nFEP...
Bummer... you finished your review before I finished mine! 🤣Super nice video! I loved it and I learned some things that I didn't catch while working on mine! I also need to stress that I think NFEP is probably the reason you got all the details you saw. EDIT: yeah, you just mentioned the ACF film too... ha ha ha.
At the moment, I have completely resigned from making the decision to buy any printer. I'm still waiting for the final production version of Athena with all the promised features because they seem really interesting (opensource design and being able to modify and update, upgrade &reapir is important to me) The world will not end if I don't buy a printer this year, although I would love to. Don't get FOMO ;)
This was definitely resonates with me. I find a lot to like about the Uniformation GK Two, but maybe the Saturn 3 + an enclosure gets me 90% of what I want at a lower total cost. Decisions, decisions...
Actually, my understanding is that having the z axis screw fixed at both ends is not the optimal way to do it. If the bearing at the top, the motor and the screw aren't absolutely perfectly aligned, then you're introducing a ton of stress into the system which is more likely to cause wobble, as well as other issues.
M5 Review: "This [resin used for the test] isn't the sharpest. But I genuenly don't care that much about sharpness. Saturn 3 Review: "This printer can print [14th post, with a diameter of 100 micron] - So long as you are using a very sharp resin. The implied quality edge of the Saturn 3 against the M5 can't be taken at face value before they are both tested on equal terms, with identical resins.
About the supports- Im currently printing amazing dinosaur models by Dino and Dog and his pressuports are done by Atlas3D and god damn! Those are probably best pre-supported models I ever done. About the vid- as always, stellar work and I really enjoyed watching even tho Im very happy with my Saturn 8K
you can workaround a fat32 4gb file size limit by splitting the file using special software (freeware and many, many different versions of it). you then name the folder those split files are in, with the filename and extension type, and it will read the folder as the file and the split files inside as parts of the whole. so you can have a 40gb file split into 10 parts so that they fit on the fat32 file system
Definitely looking forward to the Saturn 3 Ultra and Mars 4 Ultra reviews as I'm planning on getting my paws on a larger format resin printer to work alongside (or replace) my Mars 2 Pro.
You just know how good this will be if you have a Saturn 2 8k! Just sooo reliable one get it set and its an easy printer to dial in i can count on mine for anything can't wait till mine arrives! Jm currently working with anycubic with the m5s the failure of auto levelling they have sent me the new Version 2 build plate 4 bolt under 2 side stickers to give us some way of fixing the 2mm short center parts in the original build plates! I have a video ready to upload but need to let Anycubic know if its working first so keep an eye out it is my first video but people with the m5s need to know about the new build plates to fill in a ticket to get there's!
@@FauxHammer thanks for showing this! I never thought about it. I used Vallejo liquid masking, but I'll give the putty a try. Now I guess I have to find a way to buy it in my country.
@@telefoonjoost liquid mask is grey fir small details but a nightmare to remove. Check out some of my old miniature painting video like the silver Templars one. I use this stuff often and one pack is still lasting me today after about 5 years
Hi ross, just a little question. I'm a big fan of miniature painting so it's important to me to have smooth surfaces. Recently I ordered the Mini 8KS because the qualities of the printer seemed to me to be the best at the time of my order. Now I see this video and I have real doubts and I'm thinking of canceling my order and heading for the Saturn 3. While knowing that my project will be to create an army of the astra militarum (so between 100 and 200 little guys and around 20 tanks) that I intend to paint with great care, what do you think? because on the one hand I know that the results with the mini 8KS will be present, but on the other hand its dimensions will lead me to exhaust the LCD screen a little more quickly.
You should do a review on the Phrozen Mighty 8k upgrade kit to 12k. That would be worth seeing in comparison. Please do this! Keep the reviews coming as they are good on collecting information on informed decisions.
Oh don't get me started, They were sending one, then they weren't. So i bought one. then they cancelled it so they could send one, but it wasn't despatched. now i have no idea where it is. But i do know they have exciting things coming.
I made a big comparison between all SLA printers, for the Phrozen Mighty 8K + 12K upgrade the build platform is smaller, printing speed is half (70!), price is almost double, no air purifier built-in, less intuitive slicer software. Touchscreen is a bit bigger. I would not go there.
my m5s has arrived, i haven't printed anything yet, but is the m5 tank exactly the same? Instead of buying the film itself, I'd rather buy a tank for m5 and have a transparent one already installed in it, because two tanks would be perfect to have anyway. I will buy more nfep later.
Honestly I'm most intersted whether or not the Saturn 3 Ultra buildplate fits on the Saturn 2! While I've personally not had any issues with the ball mount I know many others have and they will sell them as spare parts eventually down the road.
So finally I canceled my M5s preorder for 400€ and bought the ultra for 500€ via your link. Hope this one will not disappoint. :) Probably will have to change the acf foil, but I liked the better mounting on the Ultra. Thank you for your reviews!
Amazing videos! In EU I'm waiting an Anycubic M5s. But I need them now xD What do you think about this SLA printers? Anycubic M5S or Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra? For digital heritage purposes. Thank you for your reviews and opinions.
Atlas 3DSS's site shows Nom Nom as a client... I don't know if they support their models with the company after or before this video... Awesome video by the way. I would like to see a video about maintenance and maintenance cost in resin prints. Because everybody shows and reviews new printers and nobody never consider the price or the availability of a lcd replacement, or maybe another piece that needs to be replaced trough the time, like a light or a power source perhaps. I tend to think 3d printers are not supposed to be disposable tools... Or its are?
Ugh my Anycubic Photon 2k died and I'm considering replacing ( I print lots of miniatures for our DnD campaigns) but little things like the .goo file type issues just make we weary about even replacing my broken printer. Resin printing has been such a hassle and I don't know if its still worth the effort and all the troubleshooting. I really wish Anker made a resin printer. My M5C is so stupid easy to use. I absolutely love it. I wish I could find that level of easy in an affordable resin printer.
I've bought this printer an can attest to the print quality. Stepping up from the Mars Pro ( which was still giving crisp prints), I'm blown away by the print quality. My only niggle is the sheer size, with the size of it, they could have put a hinged dor on it to save space, but they didn't. So it means I need a lot of space above the printer in order to get the lid off. Great review as usual.
About the new ACF film. I recieved my M5s a couple of days ago and I think Anycubic did some upgrades or tweaks or something because my prints look absolutely perfect
i never said they look bad and I;m glad you;re happy with the results. But they just won't look as sharp as prints from a competitor printer from the last generation or other 12k's from this one. Anycubic haven't upgraded it.
I'm watching all your printer reviews in preparation for getting into the hobby (I'm thinking the saturn 4 or 4 ultra? Is that funky hard to clean plate make the 4 worse than the 3??) But I'm worried about the file size errors. Does anyone have confidence that these are fixed in the newest edition? I don't remember hearing either way about that yet.
I bought one of these on black friday. Turns out I got a faulty one, with the LCD mounted backwards or something. All the prints come out mirrored. Waiting to hear from Elegoo support. Thankfully its an easy fix when slicing.
Hello, thanks for the great review (as always). I'm looking to buy a Saturn 3 (Ultra) in the near future. Actually I would like to have the Saturn 3, but with the 4-Screw Build plate, the ACF film from the Ultra I also do not want. So I have 2 questions. Does the Saturn 3 Ultra have the same vat as the Elegoo Saturn 2, then you could just replace the VAT, so buy a spare (without breaking the ACF film, maybe you need it sometime). Can the build plate from the Saturn 3 Ultra also be attached to the Saturn 3? Then you could buy a replacement build plate (4-Srew) for the Saturn 3.
Question from a noob who never touched a 3d printer. Why can't I just cure the model using the printer itself? If I just have to run it without any masking from the lcd, will it not work?
@@retromodernart4426 what specifically? As opposed to what? MSLA uses UV light masked off by an lcd screen? So what if I don't mask anything and just let uv light pass through to cure a model?
Dunno never tried it, you’d need to remove the vat first or it would just cure the resin in the vat. Then sit the print in the lcd, which could stick to the lcd. Because it still has some nit fully cited resin in the surface. And worse if the king is hollowed because some liquid resin could leak out and it could cure most from the bottom with the the rest of the model only slightly cured from some small amount of refracted light. Then there time. Some prints need about 30 mins in a curing station ti fully cure. The max most lrinters would stay in fir is about a minute. So you’d need to click start exposure 30 times
@@DankLordvsGames How are you going to get the UV to 'draw' the layers in the liquid resin, thereby solidifying it? Do you understand, that the LCD gets images of each layer of a print, is illuminated by a UV light source, the "solid" parts of the layer image on the LCD let the UV light expose the resin in those areas of the layer, the "empty" parts of the layer on the LCD block the UV light. The resin vat sits on the top of the LCD, with a clear film lining the bottom of the tank. So, if you just expose the bottom of the resin tank repeatedly with a solid rectangle of UV light, all you can make is rectangular resin pancakes.
great review. I'm on the fence on whether to get the standard 3 or the Ultra. (on Elegoos website the difference in price is only about £35) I much prefer the 4 point build plate compared to the ball joint on the regular saturn. the only thing stopping me buying the ultra is the ACF film. I'm not really interested in how fast the thing can print just that it is the best quality it can be (of course I could just replace that with regular nfep but looking online that would add quite a bit to the cost of the printer. it's about £40 for 5 sheets) so if I went that route it's another £75 compared to the regular saturn 3 I tend to print bigger models rather than miniatures. (currently on a photon mono 2 which is just a bit small for what I want to do and I end up having to do multiple print runs to get a single model, hence wanting a bigger print volume) I've watched your video comparing the 2 but I'm still not sure which would be the best option. pretty much the only thing I don't like on the regular saturn is the ball joint. I will of course use your link whatever way I choose to go.👍
When you say larger models, you may actually be fine with ACF and it’s worth a try, you can also use any PFA film on this which may bring down costs, but at £35 difference between these printers now. Get the ultra, hands down, get the ultra.
I just looked again and the difference is actually £70 (I forgot to click the shipping to UK button on the ultra page) but still it's not a huge difference
@@Ross.Graham No when originally looking at both I had clicked on UK shipping on the standard but was looking at US shipping on the ultra. both are cheaper to ship to the US for some reason
The ball tips are actually better because when you sand them, you can get them perfectly flat, whereas normal support tip often leaves a dent. I actually use ball tips for all my prints for this reason
@@FauxHammer Prove this - "when i support my models i use the correct size supports to not need any sanding or have any divots left" or correct what you misstated. Show models that you supported that need no sanding nor have any divots left. Make sure to show the model right after it's finished, then show yourself removing the supports, then show the pristine surface that needs no post processing. Your spankin' new microscope should come in handy for that. Thanks in advance for expanding our precision and knowledge.
@@retromodernart4426 Watch my Mars 3 video, i supported all of those models myself - using auto supports properly. I even have a video on this exact process coming soon. it;s not just me, look at One Page rules. The Lion;s Tower, Blackforge games. This is why I referenced @Atlas3D. becaus ethey are gods of supporting models.
@@FauxHammer Your point was not if you know how to support models or not (which you obviously do and have shown repeatedly), you claimed that you and others(?) can, by using "proper supports" and tip types and sizes, print models that have _no surface artifacts at all from the supports_. I didn't claim anything, I asked you to show proofs of _your_ claim. As you know, I'm not trying to be argumentative or troll on you, if what you claim is true, it's a breakthrough and if you can demonstrate it and it's repeatable by others that would be great. Otherwise, the claim is at best just another click-baity exaggeration and at worst another bs claim on top of the turdpile of nonsense 'advice' promoted by 3D printing UA-camrs, unfortunately.
@@retromodernart4426 oh I’m not trying to be argumentative either. I’m quite short in my responses and appreciate it can come across as rude, but I have so many comments I want to reply to. This is a very interesting discussion. I am doing a video on how to support models. Two actually. The first is a basic video and the second is much more in depth - the way I do it. But doing it right, it’s long winded and boring. And if I make a really good, but boring video, it won’t get any views. And therefore won’t become a top video, even if it is one of the best in the subject. So I need a good approach and hook to keep it entertaining whilst instructive. My halo models in the Mars 3 video are the examples I have now that you can see. But others like MEZGIKE’s, One page rules and Tbe Lion’s Tower are others you can get and print yourself to see they only need the supports removing and minimal. Scraping over with a knife for any stragglers There are no divots So until I can make my new videos, which will be a long while. These are all I can show you right now.
Thinking about getting a new printer, leaning towards Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra for the larger build volume and the 4 screws on the builplate, got the same on my MonoX 4k and never had to relevel since i got it, same with my Transform.
You're more likely to get Z wobble with a fixed lead screw, a lead screw with a bearing is more likely to transfer any bends on the Z than a floating one.
I'm curious. Do you have any experience with this? Can you say more? I wanted to buy a Saturn 3 Ultra just because it had a fixed Z axis. I am now having the same problem with the Saturn S. The rod quickly began to wobble. Thanks :)
I wonder if it’s a hindrance of the Chitu firmware, and if the Saturn 3 Ultra has the same limitation? The Ultra uses Elegoo’s own board and a Linux OS so I imagine it’s more flexible.
It appears Elegoo picked up the 14 hole/14 post gauntlet that I threw down. Now, I challenge resin manufacturers to create a FLEXIBLE resin capable of printing 14 holes & 14 posts!
great review, thank you! you recommend using chitubox for slicing and replacing the included 4gb with something higher quality. what size thumbdrive do you recommend for this resin printer? i see 64gb thumb drives for under $20 USD should i just go with something like that? or would there be a downside to using a large capacity thumb drive, possibly the printers ability to read from a large thumb drive? thank you for your time!
I think some printers have issues with larger drives, but any should be fine, so long as it;s formatted in FAT32 - so you can potentially have up to 2TB. I got a pack of 5 32gb sandick drives for about £20 on Amazon, link in description
Sweet thank you for this video :D Maybe if you get the Saturn 3 Ultra, can you do a test with the vat from Saturn 3? To compare the same fep sheet materials on different printers? :D You can always throw out that other sheet if it makes for worse print quality. :D
Any time! you do OPR right and Blackforge right? Those supports are amazing. I had a comment above by someone telling me they use ball supports on everything. Ouch! what a waste of time
@@FauxHammer we do OPR yes and I personally did some of Blackforge's pieces - but that was just a personal project - we do not do all of their supports.
Hi, thanks for the great review. I just bought an Elegoo Saturn 3 12k and Elegoo 8k Space Grey standard Resin. Elegoo gives some recommendet settings for this printer and resin. From your experience, are these recommendations any good or is there no way around making calibrations myself?
Settings wise I haven’t tested them but it will be a half decent start. Please watch my video on how to print miniatures. It works for every printer and I’m get to find the person who has used this guide and failed to enjoy their prints
I've been quite interested in buying a phrozen 8k for it's precision and I discovered the elegoo Saturn 3 12k. Less expensive and bigger volume. Does it print details surpass or is equivalent with the sonic 8k ?
Have you (any any of your viewers) with the Saturn 3 had issues with it print trash when any kind of AA is applied? Ive tried 2 slicers and multiple iterations and at this point i think its a firmware issue, but wanted to hear more feedback.
New to the channel and started to get a little more into printing miniatures, what did you use to cover the model to shield parts that are not needing paint?
Which printer would you recommend if one wants to buy a 10 inch screen on a budget? I see the M5s has the pre-order deal with the cleaning+curing, for 490 euro, which is the same price as getting the Elegoo Saturn 3 plus a cure+clean station. Should I get the Elegoo? I think the detail on my current. Mars 2 Pro is fine, I'd like an upgrade, but from the videos you've shared about the M5s, the speed and such might not make it much of an upgrade, which is why I'm curious if I should instead go for the Elegoo as speed isn't that important to me. Build plate volume and better detail than mars 2 pro is more important
on a budget, the Elegoo Saturn 8k (not the Saturn 2 8k they are two different printers, check my comparison video) but between the M5 and Saturn 3, I'd go Saturn 3 any day.
They do not, you can get a model to turn the 3D files into the files that the printer would understand. These are called Slicers But to do the modelling, that’s a different skill set and set of programs. I’ve never done it
Haha, thanks. this is the most common comment on my video! Heheh all this effort I put into a printer and the thing most people wanna know is, what’s that masking stuff. It’s just silly putty. Much better than blu-tack
Hi, I'm in the market for my first resin printer, the use will be for scale models, mostly 1/24 and 1/25 cars, trucks and detailed parts for them. I'm relay debating between the Saturn 3 or the mars 4 MAX, for me the price difference between them is almost 200 USD , and i relay cant decide if it's worth it, what do you think?
As someone who placed an order to buy a Saturn 2 in the last couple days based on the previous issues you found with the Saturn 3 Ultra FEP. Do you suggest cancelling the Saturn 2 delivery and changing it to the Saturn 3? This will be my first Resin 3d printer and am frankly unsure if I should make the switch.
My friend recently bought a Saturn 2 and the fan only comes on when it actually prints. This may be a later firmware than you've used that generated your comment regarding the previous generation having the fan on all the time.
Damn, so maybe the 3 is worth the wait.... and I just ordered the 2 8k since you mentioned it on the stream, lol. I can cancel delivery still, it's amazin
What did you decide to do regarding canceling the Saturn 2 8k? Did you decide to get the Saturn 3 instead? I am in the exact same boat as you, I just got the Saturn 2 but I can still cancel the delivery.
I'm very close to buying my first 3d printer and your videos has really inspired me, thanks! But I can't decide on if I should get the Saturn 3 or the Mars 4 Max 6K as my first printer. I will almost exclusively print miniatures in 28-32mm scale. Also is there any reason to get the Saturn 2 over the Saturn 3 since there is only 20$ difference in price, am I missing something? Thanks again for great content!
Honestly, it depends on the resin you will use. If you use an 8k resin, then you'll see a slight difference on the Saturn 3 vs the 2 and the Max. But most, if not all, of those resins are really brittle. So when you use something a bit softer, like wargamer, you'll see very little difference in detail. but surfaces will look a little smoother.
@@FauxHammer Thanks for the quick response! I will mostly use some ABS-like resin i presume, since i will value sturdy miniatures and smooth surface over extreme detail. Then again I'm totally new at 3d printing.
What is a good quality and durable waterwashable resin to use with this printer? I want to use it to make buttonboxes and flightsim equipment. Thnx guys ❤
Hi @FauxHammer, quick question. I just bought the saturn ultra 3. I use abs like resin and want a slightly faster printing time without losing quality. What settings would you suggest?
i dont see much discussion about the types of resin used on these high res printers. do you find regualr resin gives good result or do you need one made specifically for high res printers? (if there are any, i dont know)
Basic and soft resins do not typically showcase as much detail. But as for where that quality drop between the different resolutions. I do t know. Better resins should give more detail
I need to look back at some of your video's of the saturn 2 8k i need to see, hear this fan running all the time i can't understand what you mean as mine shuts off ofter printing when printer is idel!
Yeah wondered but thanks for the review made my mind up on this one but the mono 2 is just to small now I need a second saturn 2 but then the saturn 3 just came out so like you said there it's maybe good to have the 12k now for maybe what updates ametc will come of it I'm stuck on to get the saturn 3 or 3 ultra both are now in stock but think the ultra might be the better way to go I can't see anything being 14k or 16k anytime soon lol but who knows maybe a proper 12k with a square vat and screen would work? If you have a kink there to 3D Jake or elegoo direct I'll use them when purchasing mate
Let's you print 12k now and you'll be able to in the future. If you have a want for 12k right now itt'l do it, and work with better resins in the future. For most people though I really think even 4K is going to be fine for another 5 years for mini's
@@SirProdigle my logic on the matter is I would rather save money now so when durable resin does hit the market I could get the latest features. Not a fan of buying things on promises anymore.
Buy the Elegoo Saturn 3 Here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351044&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Buy the Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra here: shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2351046&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Buy the Elegoo Saturn 2 here:
Elegoo - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2183265&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Amazon - geni.us/ElegooSaturn2
Element Games - elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/elegoo-3d-printing/elegoo-saturn-2-3d-printer?d=10279
Buy the Elegoo Saturn 8k here:
Elegoo - shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2183267&u=3060349&m=104244&urllink=&afftrack=
Amazon - www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=Saturn+8k&crid=15HYHP189M5R6&sprefix=saturn+8k%2Caps%2C223&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
Have they done any updates into the ".goo" area?
Thanks for doing a review of this printer. Looks like I lucked out. I bought this printer on preorder and I was praying it didn't suck. I didn't need the most detailed printer in this price bracket, but I just wanted it to work as well as its 8k brother. Turns out the details are in spades. It is nice to know I can push an 8k resin to its limit when I want to print something out really cool.
I appreciate your reviews. You are straightforward and not afraid to say the negatives. Please keep up the excellent work.
Nope, you gambled and it paid off
Great review man & holy smokes was your exposure test CLEAN and on point! Wild!
Thanks man, Elegoo are absolutely killing it at the mo. Now is a very good time to be close to them as a brand.
They support my channel less than any other manufacturer does. But even so, they are still releasing the better printers and that’s a fact I can’t possibly deny.
4:00 having bearing on top would actually create more reasons for Z inconsistencies instead of resolving them, free side of a lead screw/ball screw should be held by special floating bearing or not held at all to not get unwanted repeatability issues due to temperature variations, so Elegoo actually made a proper decision to not create issues for looks
Elegoo made the decision because it costs them less, and that's all.
They've gotten away with disgusting mechanical misengineering for a long time as should be well known and is well documented, so the burden of proof is on them to prove the effectiveness of some mechanical feature or lack thereof on their printers.
@@retromodernart4426 no, this bearing causes a lot of problem on fdm 3d printers, screw is never ideally straight and if you will fix it in 3 points and try to rotate you can get wobble of z carriage. If screw is high quality and straight enough - this bearing will just do nothing. Sorry for my shitty English.
@@___15 You're absolutely right, I added bearings to the top of my z-axis screws on my fdm several years ago, before it was common knowledge that it's actually detrimental. Have seen it cause "ringing-like" issues first-hand. Much better to let it float around, however unintuitive it is! :D
@@___15 I agree with _you_, but that doesn't mean that Elegoo was thinking about anything except what costs them less.
@@retromodernart4426 they did actually think about usability, those special bearings are a thing for large CNC machines and only used when screw cannot left free for significant reasons
Really appreciate the time and effort you put into making these videos. Keep up the good work!
Been researching resin printers and this is a great review. Thank you
Happy to help
love these videos.
you spoke about the influence of the resin used. could you do a video on different resins (the 8k you always show, some cheaper and popular resins and one or two waterwashable resins) used in the same printer. to show the influence of the resin
I just canceled my preorder of the m5s and bought the saturn 3 instead. you reviews are pretty clear and match with what i wanted form the printer
Awesome review! Looking forward the Saturn 3 Ultra review and any comparison videos in the future.
I am def appointed after getting my saturn 3 ultra! the resin test was 14/14 from the first test and with it all dialed in it makes gorgeous reliable prints
hahaha, I struggled to read that because I forgot my own joke!
Thanks for the review, much appreciated...so glad I cancelled the M5s and bought the Saturn 3 Ultra 12K...and I already have a new vat for it with nFEP...
I like your videos. Very informative . Thank you for putting these videos out
Thanks for watching
Bummer... you finished your review before I finished mine! 🤣Super nice video! I loved it and I learned some things that I didn't catch while working on mine! I also need to stress that I think NFEP is probably the reason you got all the details you saw. EDIT: yeah, you just mentioned the ACF film too... ha ha ha.
Yep, I’m gonn start a war against ACF, that stuff is trash
At the moment, I have completely resigned from making the decision to buy any printer.
I'm still waiting for the final production version of Athena with all the promised features because they seem really interesting (opensource design and being able to modify and update, upgrade &reapir is important to me)
The world will not end if I don't buy a printer this year, although I would love to. Don't get FOMO ;)
Yeah I can’t wait to get mine also
This was definitely resonates with me. I find a lot to like about the Uniformation GK Two, but maybe the Saturn 3 + an enclosure gets me 90% of what I want at a lower total cost. Decisions, decisions...
Actually, my understanding is that having the z axis screw fixed at both ends is not the optimal way to do it. If the bearing at the top, the motor and the screw aren't absolutely perfectly aligned, then you're introducing a ton of stress into the system which is more likely to cause wobble, as well as other issues.
Just received my Saturn 3 12k. Miniature quality is amazing. ❤ love it.
Great to hear!so good isn’t it?
M5 Review: "This [resin used for the test] isn't the sharpest. But I genuenly don't care that much about sharpness.
Saturn 3 Review: "This printer can print [14th post, with a diameter of 100 micron] - So long as you are using a very sharp resin.
The implied quality edge of the Saturn 3 against the M5 can't be taken at face value before they are both tested on equal terms, with identical resins.
Excellent review, great job.
About the supports- Im currently printing amazing dinosaur models by Dino and Dog and his pressuports are done by Atlas3D and god damn! Those are probably best pre-supported models I ever done.
About the vid- as always, stellar work and I really enjoyed watching even tho Im very happy with my Saturn 8K
Yeah, whenever I hear Atlas 3D I know I'm in for an easy print
Great review thanks for sharing and providing very useful information.
Thanks for watching!
you can workaround a fat32 4gb file size limit by splitting the file using special software (freeware and many, many different versions of it). you then name the folder those split files are in, with the filename and extension type, and it will read the folder as the file and the split files inside as parts of the whole. so you can have a 40gb file split into 10 parts so that they fit on the fat32 file system
Ooof, sounds like a faf, I’d rather Elegoo just sort out the .goo format
Definitely looking forward to the Saturn 3 Ultra and Mars 4 Ultra reviews as I'm planning on getting my paws on a larger format resin printer to work alongside (or replace) my Mars 2 Pro.
Just did my Mars 4 Ultra review today. Editing this week
It uses the exact same LCD screen as the Anycubic M5.
You just know how good this will be if you have a Saturn 2 8k! Just sooo reliable one get it set and its an easy printer to dial in i can count on mine for anything can't wait till mine arrives! Jm currently working with anycubic with the m5s the failure of auto levelling they have sent me the new Version 2 build plate 4 bolt under 2 side stickers to give us some way of fixing the 2mm short center parts in the original build plates! I have a video ready to upload but need to let Anycubic know if its working first so keep an eye out it is my first video but people with the m5s need to know about the new build plates to fill in a ticket to get there's!
You have hit another home run brother……. Outstanding review…… to many printers not enough cash…..
Thanks so much
Wow, your review and painting are spot on!
What type of putty/clay do you use for masking if I may ask?
I use silly putty. It’s cheap and won’t pull dry paint. Not sure what he uses but it looks quite similar.
Thanks, it’s just silly putty
@@FauxHammer thanks for showing this! I never thought about it. I used Vallejo liquid masking, but I'll give the putty a try.
Now I guess I have to find a way to buy it in my country.
@@telefoonjoost liquid mask is grey fir small details but a nightmare to remove. Check out some of my old miniature painting video like the silver Templars one. I use this stuff often and one pack is still lasting me today after about 5 years
@@FauxHammer thanks for the reply! I'll see if I can get a hold on it and try it ASAP
Hi ross, just a little question. I'm a big fan of miniature painting so it's important to me to have smooth surfaces. Recently I ordered the Mini 8KS because the qualities of the printer seemed to me to be the best at the time of my order. Now I see this video and I have real doubts and I'm thinking of canceling my order and heading for the Saturn 3.
While knowing that my project will be to create an army of the astra militarum (so between 100 and 200 little guys and around 20 tanks) that I intend to paint with great care, what do you think? because on the one hand I know that the results with the mini 8KS will be present, but on the other hand its dimensions will lead me to exhaust the LCD screen a little more quickly.
on 30ish mm size, even 8K is good enough for minis imho. unless you want GW level of quality then you need few K worth 3D printer....
fixing the screw with a bearing from above may cause Z wobble, elegoo did the right thing that they did not install the bearing
You should do a review on the Phrozen Mighty 8k upgrade kit to 12k. That would be worth seeing in comparison. Please do this!
Keep the reviews coming as they are good on collecting information on informed decisions.
Oh don't get me started, They were sending one, then they weren't. So i bought one. then they cancelled it so they could send one, but it wasn't despatched. now i have no idea where it is.
But i do know they have exciting things coming.
I made a big comparison between all SLA printers, for the Phrozen Mighty 8K + 12K upgrade the build platform is smaller, printing speed is half (70!), price is almost double, no air purifier built-in, less intuitive slicer software. Touchscreen is a bit bigger. I would not go there.
my m5s has arrived, i haven't printed anything yet, but is the m5 tank exactly the same? Instead of buying the film itself, I'd rather buy a tank for m5 and have a transparent one already installed in it, because two tanks would be perfect to have anyway. I will buy more nfep later.
Yeah, identical mate
Honestly I'm most intersted whether or not the Saturn 3 Ultra buildplate fits on the Saturn 2! While I've personally not had any issues with the ball mount I know many others have and they will sell them as spare parts eventually down the road.
Oh, interesting test to try. Never thought I’d that
So finally I canceled my M5s preorder for 400€ and bought the ultra for 500€ via your link. Hope this one will not disappoint. :) Probably will have to change the acf foil, but I liked the better mounting on the Ultra. Thank you for your reviews!
thanks for that. I'm just glad you clearly got the point of the ACF difference and made a decision based on your specific need.
12:46 I would love to see a video of you trying to use it to paint a very small mini
Amazing videos! In EU I'm waiting an Anycubic M5s. But I need them now xD What do you think about this SLA printers? Anycubic M5S or Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra? For digital heritage purposes. Thank you for your reviews and opinions.
I canceled the M5s preorder and ordered this one instead. The M5s has the weaker light source and the ACF Film, which nobody wants.
Very informative thanks! Curious what that clay masking you used when painting?
silly putty
I was able to get this for $300 on Amazon because I needed a bigger print size. Should be in today.
Brilliant Video!
Atlas 3DSS's site shows Nom Nom as a client... I don't know if they support their models with the company after or before this video...
Awesome video by the way.
I would like to see a video about maintenance and maintenance cost in resin prints. Because everybody shows and reviews new printers and nobody never consider the price or the availability of a lcd replacement, or maybe another piece that needs to be replaced trough the time, like a light or a power source perhaps.
I tend to think 3d printers are not supposed to be disposable tools... Or its are?
That relationship began after this video.
I could do such a video. I have upgrade videos out there, but honestly I've never burned through an LCD
Ugh my Anycubic Photon 2k died and I'm considering replacing ( I print lots of miniatures for our DnD campaigns) but little things like the .goo file type issues just make we weary about even replacing my broken printer. Resin printing has been such a hassle and I don't know if its still worth the effort and all the troubleshooting. I really wish Anker made a resin printer. My M5C is so stupid easy to use. I absolutely love it. I wish I could find that level of easy in an affordable resin printer.
I've bought this printer an can attest to the print quality. Stepping up from the Mars Pro ( which was still giving crisp prints), I'm blown away by the print quality. My only niggle is the sheer size, with the size of it, they could have put a hinged dor on it to save space, but they didn't. So it means I need a lot of space above the printer in order to get the lid off. Great review as usual.
Glad you liked it and can agree with the paints I made. And yeah, hinges are a more expensive design and Elegoo like to be more cost efficient
About the new ACF film. I recieved my M5s a couple of days ago and I think Anycubic did some upgrades or tweaks or something because my prints look absolutely perfect
i never said they look bad and I;m glad you;re happy with the results. But they just won't look as sharp as prints from a competitor printer from the last generation or other 12k's from this one. Anycubic haven't upgraded it.
Hey man! Amazing video. What was that putty you used when airbrushing the Pikmin statue? Would be very useful haha
That’s what I was wondering
Thanks so much, it was just silly putty
I'm watching all your printer reviews in preparation for getting into the hobby (I'm thinking the saturn 4 or 4 ultra? Is that funky hard to clean plate make the 4 worse than the 3??) But I'm worried about the file size errors. Does anyone have confidence that these are fixed in the newest edition? I don't remember hearing either way about that yet.
I bought one of these on black friday. Turns out I got a faulty one, with the LCD mounted backwards or something. All the prints come out mirrored. Waiting to hear from Elegoo support. Thankfully its an easy fix when slicing.
Hello,
thanks for the great review (as always).
I'm looking to buy a Saturn 3 (Ultra) in the near future. Actually I would like to have the Saturn 3, but with the 4-Screw Build plate, the ACF film from the Ultra I also do not want.
So I have 2 questions.
Does the Saturn 3 Ultra have the same vat as the Elegoo Saturn 2, then you could just replace the VAT, so buy a spare (without breaking the ACF film, maybe you need it sometime).
Can the build plate from the Saturn 3 Ultra also be attached to the Saturn 3? Then you could buy a replacement build plate (4-Srew) for the Saturn 3.
for the usb , you could just connect an usb extension cable or a hub?
Question from a noob who never touched a 3d printer. Why can't I just cure the model using the printer itself? If I just have to run it without any masking from the lcd, will it not work?
Look up how MSLA works.
@@retromodernart4426 what specifically? As opposed to what? MSLA uses UV light masked off by an lcd screen? So what if I don't mask anything and just let uv light pass through to cure a model?
Dunno never tried it, you’d need to remove the vat first or it would just cure the resin in the vat.
Then sit the print in the lcd, which could stick to the lcd. Because it still has some nit fully cited resin in the surface. And worse if the king is hollowed because some liquid resin could leak out and it could cure most from the bottom with the the rest of the model only slightly cured from some small amount of refracted light.
Then there time. Some prints need about 30 mins in a curing station ti fully cure. The max most lrinters would stay in fir is about a minute. So you’d need to click start exposure 30 times
@@FauxHammer Thanks! Potentially possible but not realistically feasible, got it.
@@DankLordvsGames How are you going to get the UV to 'draw' the layers in the liquid resin, thereby solidifying it?
Do you understand, that the LCD gets images of each layer of a print, is illuminated by a UV light source, the "solid" parts of the layer image on the LCD let the UV light expose the resin in those areas of the layer, the "empty" parts of the layer on the LCD block the UV light.
The resin vat sits on the top of the LCD, with a clear film lining the bottom of the tank.
So, if you just expose the bottom of the resin tank repeatedly with a solid rectangle of UV light, all you can make is rectangular resin pancakes.
I wish Siraya Tech resin was cheaper. It's one of the most expensive resins here in Canada. Everyone is always recommending it, but expensive.
great review. I'm on the fence on whether to get the standard 3 or the Ultra. (on Elegoos website the difference in price is only about £35)
I much prefer the 4 point build plate compared to the ball joint on the regular saturn.
the only thing stopping me buying the ultra is the ACF film. I'm not really interested in how fast the thing can print just that it is the best quality it can be (of course I could just replace that with regular nfep but looking online that would add quite a bit to the cost of the printer. it's about £40 for 5 sheets) so if I went that route it's another £75 compared to the regular saturn 3
I tend to print bigger models rather than miniatures. (currently on a photon mono 2 which is just a bit small for what I want to do and I end up having to do multiple print runs to get a single model, hence wanting a bigger print volume)
I've watched your video comparing the 2 but I'm still not sure which would be the best option. pretty much the only thing I don't like on the regular saturn is the ball joint.
I will of course use your link whatever way I choose to go.👍
When you say larger models, you may actually be fine with ACF and it’s worth a try, you can also use any PFA film on this which may bring down costs, but at £35 difference between these printers now. Get the ultra, hands down, get the ultra.
@@FauxHammerthanks for your quick reply and all of your great reviews. no BS no sugar coating stuff, tell it like it is. You're a top man Ross
I just looked again and the difference is actually £70 (I forgot to click the shipping to UK button on the ultra page) but still it's not a huge difference
@@chemicalBR0 It costs more to ship the Ultra than the Standard?
@@Ross.Graham No when originally looking at both I had clicked on UK shipping on the standard but was looking at US shipping on the ultra. both are cheaper to ship to the US for some reason
The ball tips are actually better because when you sand them, you can get them perfectly flat, whereas normal support tip often leaves a dent.
I actually use ball tips for all my prints for this reason
Fair enough, but when i support my models i use the correct size supports to not need any sanding or have any divots left.
@@FauxHammer Prove this - "when i support my models i use the correct size supports to not need any sanding or have any divots left" or correct what you misstated.
Show models that you supported that need no sanding nor have any divots left.
Make sure to show the model right after it's finished, then show yourself removing the supports, then show the pristine surface that needs no post processing.
Your spankin' new microscope should come in handy for that.
Thanks in advance for expanding our precision and knowledge.
@@retromodernart4426 Watch my Mars 3 video, i supported all of those models myself - using auto supports properly. I even have a video on this exact process coming soon.
it;s not just me, look at One Page rules. The Lion;s Tower, Blackforge games.
This is why I referenced @Atlas3D. becaus ethey are gods of supporting models.
@@FauxHammer Your point was not if you know how to support models or not (which you obviously do and have shown repeatedly), you claimed that you and others(?) can, by using "proper supports" and tip types and sizes, print models that have _no surface artifacts at all from the supports_.
I didn't claim anything, I asked you to show proofs of _your_ claim.
As you know, I'm not trying to be argumentative or troll on you, if what you claim is true, it's a breakthrough and if you can demonstrate it and it's repeatable by others that would be great.
Otherwise, the claim is at best just another click-baity exaggeration and at worst another bs claim on top of the turdpile of nonsense 'advice' promoted by 3D printing UA-camrs, unfortunately.
@@retromodernart4426 oh I’m not trying to be argumentative either. I’m quite short in my responses and appreciate it can come across as rude, but I have so many comments I want to reply to.
This is a very interesting discussion.
I am doing a video on how to support models. Two actually. The first is a basic video and the second is much more in depth - the way I do it.
But doing it right, it’s long winded and boring. And if I make a really good, but boring video, it won’t get any views. And therefore won’t become a top video, even if it is one of the best in the subject.
So I need a good approach and hook to keep it entertaining whilst instructive.
My halo models in the Mars 3 video are the examples I have now that you can see.
But others like MEZGIKE’s, One page rules and Tbe Lion’s Tower are others you can get and print yourself to see they only need the supports removing and minimal. Scraping over with a knife for any stragglers
There are no divots
So until I can make my new videos, which will be a long while. These are all I can show you right now.
Thinking about getting a new printer, leaning towards Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra for the larger build volume and the 4 screws on the builplate, got the same on my MonoX 4k and never had to relevel since i got it, same with my Transform.
Yeah. Good call. I'm reviewing the ultra this week
@@FauxHammer Cool, will check it out when u release the vid.
I bought this as my first 3d pronter
looks like a strong candidate to replace my elegoo mars 2 pro
You're more likely to get Z wobble with a fixed lead screw, a lead screw with a bearing is more likely to transfer any bends on the Z than a floating one.
I'm curious. Do you have any experience with this? Can you say more? I wanted to buy a Saturn 3 Ultra just because it had a fixed Z axis. I am now having the same problem with the Saturn S. The rod quickly began to wobble. Thanks :)
Ok
What was that putty at the end while airbrushing? Great video.
FAT32 should not been used in any devise in 2023.😐 It's a real annoyance.
Agreed. Major annoyance.
I wonder if it’s a hindrance of the Chitu firmware, and if the Saturn 3 Ultra has the same limitation? The Ultra uses Elegoo’s own board and a Linux OS so I imagine it’s more flexible.
Don't body shame Elegoo. 😒
Is there any format that is free, and compatible with windows?
Is ntfs free?
I wish windows just included EXT4 drivers
I have a Elegoo Mars two pro, would you reconmend me upgrading to this printer?
It appears Elegoo picked up the 14 hole/14 post gauntlet that I threw down.
Now, I challenge resin manufacturers to create a FLEXIBLE resin capable of printing 14 holes & 14 posts!
As close as you’ll get I think,
WARGAMER - yesthats3dprinted.com/pages/wargamer?ref=FauxHammer
I would love to help support the channel by using your affiliate links but they only seem to work in the US in Canada. Maybe you could fix that??
did i miss it? where is the links for the pikmin files. i need those
www.printables.com/model/200038-pikmin-characters
@@FauxHammer thank you
great review, thank you! you recommend using chitubox for slicing and replacing the included 4gb with something higher quality. what size thumbdrive do you recommend for this resin printer? i see 64gb thumb drives for under $20 USD should i just go with something like that? or would there be a downside to using a large capacity thumb drive, possibly the printers ability to read from a large thumb drive? thank you for your time!
I think some printers have issues with larger drives, but any should be fine, so long as it;s formatted in FAT32 - so you can potentially have up to 2TB.
I got a pack of 5 32gb sandick drives for about £20 on Amazon, link in description
Is that Paul's hardware in the thumbnail?
Hey, when you were spray painting , what was the name of that putty you were using to block from painting over ?
Sweet thank you for this video :D
Maybe if you get the Saturn 3 Ultra, can you do a test with the vat from Saturn 3?
To compare the same fep sheet materials on different printers? :D
You can always throw out that other sheet if it makes for worse print quality. :D
Yep, I will 100% do that. When I get the ultra
Can’t deside if this or ultracraft reflex. any direct recommendation?
o bro we thank you :D - we would be happy to work with Nom or Loot :D thank you again for the kind words. - I've got a Saturn 12 Ultra otw myself.
Any time! you do OPR right and Blackforge right? Those supports are amazing. I had a comment above by someone telling me they use ball supports on everything.
Ouch! what a waste of time
@@FauxHammer we do OPR yes and I personally did some of Blackforge's pieces - but that was just a personal project - we do not do all of their supports.
Hi, thanks for the great review. I just bought an Elegoo Saturn 3 12k and Elegoo 8k Space Grey standard Resin. Elegoo gives some recommendet settings for this printer and resin. From your experience, are these recommendations any good or is there no way around making calibrations myself?
Settings wise I haven’t tested them but it will be a half decent start. Please watch my video on how to print miniatures. It works for every printer and I’m get to find the person who has used this guide and failed to enjoy their prints
- Excellent job.
- Thx.
Glad you liked it!
I've been quite interested in buying a phrozen 8k for it's precision and I discovered the elegoo Saturn 3 12k. Less expensive and bigger volume. Does it print details surpass or is equivalent with the sonic 8k ?
Thanks!
Have you (any any of your viewers) with the Saturn 3 had issues with it print trash when any kind of AA is applied?
Ive tried 2 slicers and multiple iterations and at this point i think its a firmware issue, but wanted to hear more feedback.
New to the channel and started to get a little more into printing miniatures, what did you use to cover the model to shield parts that are not needing paint?
It's silly putty, hope that helps
You mentioned the Atlas folks when talking about supports. Have you ever tried their vulcan resin?
no, but i have my own resin out now. Wargamer - link in the description.
I followed your lead and got a second M5 vat, did you have to change any settings or relevel?
Which printer would you recommend if one wants to buy a 10 inch screen on a budget? I see the M5s has the pre-order deal with the cleaning+curing, for 490 euro, which is the same price as getting the Elegoo Saturn 3 plus a cure+clean station. Should I get the Elegoo? I think the detail on my current. Mars 2 Pro is fine, I'd like an upgrade, but from the videos you've shared about the M5s, the speed and such might not make it much of an upgrade, which is why I'm curious if I should instead go for the Elegoo as speed isn't that important to me. Build plate volume and better detail than mars 2 pro is more important
on a budget, the Elegoo Saturn 8k (not the Saturn 2 8k they are two different printers, check my comparison video)
but between the M5 and Saturn 3, I'd go Saturn 3 any day.
Quando una la compra ti danno anche gia un programma incluso per provare il disegno in 3d o se no che programma consigli?
They do not, you can get a model to turn the 3D files into the files that the printer would understand. These are called Slicers
But to do the modelling, that’s a different skill set and set of programs.
I’ve never done it
what would be the best model for warhammer style minis?
Loved the video. What is that stuff your using to mask while painting? A noob painter here
thanks, it's silly putty
Resolution/quality wise. Does this print better than the mars 4 DLP?
Great video again! Question, what is the yellow thing that you used for masking? at 14:05
Haha, thanks. this is the most common comment on my video! Heheh all this effort I put into a printer and the thing most people wanna know is, what’s that masking stuff.
It’s just silly putty. Much better than blu-tack
@@FauxHammer hahaha dont get me wrong, im Elegoo fan and its awesome to see your videos, but the yellow thing was new to me xD
Hi, I'm in the market for my first resin printer, the use will be for scale models, mostly 1/24 and 1/25 cars, trucks and detailed parts for them. I'm relay debating between the Saturn 3 or the mars 4 MAX, for me the price difference between them is almost 200 USD , and i relay cant decide if it's worth it, what do you think?
You;ll get sharper prints from teh Saturn 3 and you will see a difference if that helps
I'm trying to decide between this and the Saturn 3 Ultra. Is it worth paying the extra for the ultra?
How much is wifi and a better UI worth to you?
As someone who placed an order to buy a Saturn 2 in the last couple days based on the previous issues you found with the Saturn 3 Ultra FEP. Do you suggest cancelling the Saturn 2 delivery and changing it to the Saturn 3? This will be my first Resin 3d printer and am frankly unsure if I should make the switch.
What did you end up buying and how did it turn out? I'm in a similar situation as you were in.
13:58 ross, what paint/pigment are you using for dry brushing
It is the same recipe I used here mate ua-cam.com/video/o601ga9SLBA/v-deo.html
Citadels for the greys,
@@FauxHammer thank you ☺☺
you should have bought the saturn 3 ultra :-) the wifi transfer facility is fantastic!
I didn't buy this, they sent me it. I did but the Saturn 3 uktra
And it's sat next to me. Review coming soon
My friend recently bought a Saturn 2 and the fan only comes on when it actually prints. This may be a later firmware than you've used that generated your comment regarding the previous generation having the fan on all the time.
Probably that yeah. I had one early in in the release
Damn, so maybe the 3 is worth the wait.... and I just ordered the 2 8k since you mentioned it on the stream, lol. I can cancel delivery still, it's amazin
don't cancel delivery. trust me.
@@FauxHammer lol I too ordered the Saturn 2 8k since all the 12k printers seem iffy. Hasn't shipped yet. You think I should keep it?
@@AndyAndyAndy11111 I have been sitting on the edge myself. The Saturn 2 8k is so close to the cost of the Saturn 3 12k.
What did you decide to do regarding canceling the Saturn 2 8k? Did you decide to get the Saturn 3 instead? I am in the exact same boat as you, I just got the Saturn 2 but I can still cancel the delivery.
I'm very close to buying my first 3d printer and your videos has really inspired me, thanks! But I can't decide on if I should get the Saturn 3 or the Mars 4 Max 6K as my first printer. I will almost exclusively print miniatures in 28-32mm scale. Also is there any reason to get the Saturn 2 over the Saturn 3 since there is only 20$ difference in price, am I missing something? Thanks again for great content!
Honestly, it depends on the resin you will use. If you use an 8k resin, then you'll see a slight difference on the Saturn 3 vs the 2 and the Max. But most, if not all, of those resins are really brittle. So when you use something a bit softer, like wargamer, you'll see very little difference in detail. but surfaces will look a little smoother.
@@FauxHammer Thanks for the quick response! I will mostly use some ABS-like resin i presume, since i will value sturdy miniatures and smooth surface over extreme detail. Then again I'm totally new at 3d printing.
@@FauxHammer You always say that you don't use the Phrozen 8k resin... but WHAT do you use for practical miniatures?
@@tankusfred I use Wargamer now
14:10 I'd like to know what's this masking dough that you use. I'm starting airbrushing myself.
It’s just Silly Putty
@@FauxHammer genius, that's something I didn't even think of using, I'll emulate this when brushing different details. Thank you.
What is a good quality and durable waterwashable resin to use with this printer? I want to use it to make buttonboxes and flightsim equipment. Thnx guys ❤
Wargamer Resin is my favourite
❤❤❤
Hi @FauxHammer, quick question. I just bought the saturn ultra 3. I use abs like resin and want a slightly faster printing time without losing quality. What settings would you suggest?
After finding yyour best exposure time, Keep increasing your lift speed on each consecutive print until you start to see fails
@@FauxHammer thank you
What’s the putty you use for masking when painting the pikmin?
Silly Putty
i dont see much discussion about the types of resin used on these high res printers. do you find regualr resin gives good result or do you need one made specifically for high res printers? (if there are any, i dont know)
Basic and soft resins do not typically showcase as much detail. But as for where that quality drop between the different resolutions. I do t know.
Better resins should give more detail
What kind of clay did you use during the paint? Never seen that before
it' silly putty.
what did you use for masking??
Wonder if it could go flying up off the z axis if it gets moving fast enough
Haha, I’m not gonna try.
Please compare the Saturn 3 vs the ultra version and also swap the FEP/AFC. Im close to ordering But this stopped med 😮
I will, as soon as I get the Saturn 3 Ultra
I need to look back at some of your video's of the saturn 2 8k i need to see, hear this fan running all the time i can't understand what you mean as mine shuts off ofter printing when printer is idel!
You have an updated revision, they fixed it with firmware after I did my review
Yeah wondered but thanks for the review made my mind up on this one but the mono 2 is just to small now I need a second saturn 2 but then the saturn 3 just came out so like you said there it's maybe good to have the 12k now for maybe what updates ametc will come of it I'm stuck on to get the saturn 3 or 3 ultra both are now in stock but think the ultra might be the better way to go I can't see anything being 14k or 16k anytime soon lol but who knows maybe a proper 12k with a square vat and screen would work? If you have a kink there to 3D Jake or elegoo direct I'll use them when purchasing mate
another great video. I am in the boat of i dont see the point of a 12k with the state of high resolution resin being so brittle.
Let's you print 12k now and you'll be able to in the future. If you have a want for 12k right now itt'l do it, and work with better resins in the future. For most people though I really think even 4K is going to be fine for another 5 years for mini's
@@SirProdigle my logic on the matter is I would rather save money now so when durable resin does hit the market I could get the latest features. Not a fan of buying things on promises anymore.