Making Lap Siding with Woodland Mills Lap Siding Attachment
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2020
- Today I'm making lap siding with Woodland Mills lap siding attachment on my Woodland Mills HM130 portable sawmill. If you haven't done so already, be sure to check out my other. video in the playlist showing the installation of this Woodland Mills lap siding attachment. Today I'll be focusing on the operation of the attachment and showing you where to find the detailed information you need in your operator's manual to get up-and-cutting quickly en route to making beautiful lap siding. With a very short learning-curve, check out how I am able to adjust the profile of the lap siding I"m making with only a few adjustments. Be sure to listen carefully to the key steps that I mention in this video that you will need to repeat in order to ensure you get consistent cuts and perfect results for your next lap siding project. Thanks for watching folks and happy sawing!
Equipment used in this video:
Woodland Mills HM130 Portable Sawmill (Model year 2017)
Woodland Mills Lap Siding Attachment: Details and purchasing options can be found here woodlandmills.ca/product/lap-... - Навчання та стиль
This is my new go to channel. I'm definitely buying a mill when we move to our land and you my good sir have helped me learn so much already. Just wanted to let you know that you're saving a family thousands of dollars and providing an amazing service here.
This is really well put together informative and fun to watch!! Thanks Sandy
Awesome appreciate the positive words
very articulate educator! Great job giving and showing clear instructions us newbies appreciate.....
I just ordered a woodlander 126xl with the lap siding attachment. The trailer should be nice for me, quicker leveling and I can put it in the shop when not in use, and cut lumber on site when it saves hauling. I really appreciate your videos!
I'm ordering this tomorrow morning, and you are one of the main reasons for that. Your videos are spot on. WM needs to pay you for this service that you do for them.
Great to see you back Martin
Hi Sandy - great videos and channel. You have been a great help! Keep up the good work. I've got a HM126 and your knowledge is very helpful.
That’s a nice addition to the mill
Your attention to detail is excellent; I'm looking to purchase the same model and am looking forward to making siding with this attachment as well. Thank you for documenting your experience. I am envious of the sawdust pile you've created with your mill! :-)
Great video !
Great video. I cant wait to get one myself.
Another awesome video, very informative!
Thanks Michael
Awesome description as always Sandy. Looked all over for instructions on how to set up my Woodmizer lap side - but your walk through on Woodland was far more helpful. Nicely done.
Hi Howard! I think I was just watching a video of yours online actually if I'm not mistaken. Nice sawmill setup you've got!
@@sawingwithsandy My new set-up with the Woodmizer is much more simple than the prior Norwood, and in its simplicity, it just makes me smile. Today it's all getting my very first ever piece of lapsiding cut!
Love what you're doing.
Thanks for coming along for the video Howard and I'll be watching yours as well!
Good Video. Very well done Sandy.
Thanks for watching Glen
Nicely explained for everyone
Ah good to know thank you!
Sandy, well done and informative video. I like the tilting of the saw as the siding creation is on demand. My WoodMizer has an attachment that has to be mounted to the bed when making siding and shingles. You can use your setup as well to make shingles.
I think the woodmizer attachment would work well too no doubt. I’m still learning the ins and outs of this new siding attachment but I think it’s going to be a good one
been a woodworker for 75 years now.
seen lots of shit...ur pretty awesome.
keep up the good work...john
Thanks John appreciate that
Looks like it should work great
You could just insert a small wedge under the cant and remove it after each other cut.
I agree, that does sound like an easier option. Next time around I'll surely be using this idea.
Especially for 539.00$ vs 0
Just watched this again. Great video Sandy.
If u want wooden Shingles, just mill them thinner and use the Chopsaw to cut to various lengths.
Great point David. That would make it real easy
Unfortunately the grain will run across, instead up up/down, the Shingle. They will split and the bottom half will fall off.
If you haven't see it already, there is a Made in the USA tool called the LogOx 3 in 1 tool that would have let you pick up the end of the log and easily put it on the mill bed. I happened to see the video a bit earlier.
Sweet! Like Maple Syrup. 👍🌲
I sure love Maple Syrup (I must be Canadian haha)
Yay! 4K plus subs! Congrats!
Thanks appreciate it
Hey there buddy how are ya? Oh thank you for showing us how to use the lap siding attachment for the mill. So awesome!!!
It’s a cool tool for sure
Great job on both videos sandy
Thanks Terry, hope all is well with you
@@sawingwithsandy everything is wonderful I got my replacement wm hat today
I have the Woodland 126 mill and love it...I have made lap siding by just shimming under 1 side of the cant take a cut and remove the shim for the next cut..This works but if your making alot of siding this new setup would be nice.
Nice.
tks for the videos
Anytimw
Good job.
Thanks Robert
Better than the video from the manufacturer
Thanks
The lap siding I got from lowes is parallel no angle About 8 bucks for a 12' x 8" x 3/8 "
I bought a mill but have not put together yet its one that you did a review on i Think Os23 I got the 10 horse brigs upgrade I will make a video of it when I do get it going not many out there for that one
All the best to you and yours from John in Texas keep making Saw dust and your videos
Thanks John. I’m sure your new sawmill will be a lot of fun.
Another awesome video. Now I'm ready to install mine.
Hope all goes well Tony. Thanks for watching
When you move into your new saw shed, I would suggest that you raise the mill off the floor 28-30 inches, working below your knees is hard on the back.
Thanks for the tip Rex
The problem is you will get a plain sawn siding,not a quarter sawn siding. It will cup. I have seen quartersawn clapboards made at Wards clapboard mill. they makea very good stable siding. pine or spruce , I think . At Wards they take a 6 foot clear log. put it on a big shaving rig, like a lathe bed, it makes a big dowel- like piece of wood. The circular saw cuts from the outside to a core,about 6 inches in. it then clicks over about 5/ 8 of an inch. You get tapered slices that are quarter sawn. They are planed on one side and the fat edge is planed straight. They had mills in VT. and Maine. They may not still be in business. It was excellent siding. restoration grade for historic buildings. Pine clapboards lap siding like you saw,cup and break.
I can imagine some cup when plain sawing I just haven't experienced that on any of my buildings using the siding I"ve cut plain sawing.
@@sawingwithsandy how long have they been up/ they always cup toward the heart of the log.
Show us how you run lap siding through the thickness plainer. Thanks for the video.
Well if I start running lap siding through the thickness planer that probably means I forgot my morning coffee and my brain hasn't turned on yet. I probably mis spoke in the video if I said that. It may be possible but certainly would have to do some fancy rigging with my planer to make that one work
I do however run lap siding that isn't tapered through my planer like the lap siding I've got on my tiny house. That's basically just like a normal board though
@@sawingwithsandy A handy man with a 12 inch planer might be able to tilt the cutter to match the tapper.I smooth finish will repel the rain better than rough cut surface.
Thanks for the video...helpful and well made. I'm curious what you think of the lap siding feature after a year with it? Do you think it compromises the stability or level of the cutting head in any way? I just ordered the 130Max with extended bed and lap siding addition.-arrives in late Feb - cheaper then the materials for deck and siding
Hi Eric. I find the lap siding attachment continues to work well. I do use it but only when I'm doing certain types of siding. It's nice that it's there just in case for sure. Hope you enjoy your new mill.
yep thanks sandy you sold me on the woodland hm130 with the lapsiding attachment just picked it up at portland oregon wearhouse now just gotta put it together and get them to send me a hat like yours so i can get them some free advertisement . you da man sandy .what do ya think of there blade sharpener set up .looking at ordering one of those to
Yeah I'm thinking making a cradle for the cant that rocks back and forth would be easier. But thanks for the video, I never would have thought of the cradle without your video.
I notice too a live edge on the siding would be easy and an interesting look. I have seen live edge slabs used on some 19th century buildings when cutting off the live edge was a lot more work than today.
Hi Sandy, Could you use this attachment to make shakes as well?
The adjustment lever looks cumbersome to operate, would the gas shock give more assistance if the ft lbs was higher? And does the handle get in the way of the saw head adjustment lever when cranking up or down?
BTW, Good instructional video, well done.
good to hear from you William, the pressure in the gas shock is sufficient I think for smooth operation. It will actually almost hold the mill in place when I lift the handle of a notch. The handle doesn’t get in the way when cranking the height up or down. So far I like it and look forward to keeping on testing it
Sandy it has been 3 years since you made this video I don’t know if you still follow the questions but I will try anyway how do you stack the beveled siding to air dry
which model do you have. i'm looking to order mine now with the lap siding attachment. you have your setup without a trailer, and tips you can give me?
Sandy, guess I better start a lap siding attachment budget item so I can get me one when I got the funds saved. One question though, in the video it appears that you had a little problem getting the saw head locked back level. Is this a problem ? Or was it not? I really thought you did a great job explaining everything 👍
Since I’m still learning the ins and outs of the siding attachment I find if you put a little down pressure on the mill handle as you go back to the horizontal notch it helps as the gas shock is stiff enough to almost hold the mill up even when you lift up on the indexing handle. I also lift up just slightly on the mill handle when going from horizontal notch to a tilt notch for the same reason. It’s a pretty smooth process once you get the hang of it I find
have you ever attempted to cut wood shingles
Greetings Sandy, informative video on lap siding! Getting ready to push the go button for the attachment for my HM 126. Your video certainly played a part in the decision. Curious about two things though. You mention that the thin edge of your plank is 1/2", what did you end up thickness wise on the thicker edge? Also, you mention, and I've seen this referred to elsewhere, that cutting tapered lap siding improves the yield from the cant. Did you do any math to see how many extra boards you might get as opposed to straight cut planks? Cheers, Erik
Hi Kire, Unfortuantely I don't remember what the dimensions of the lap siding was but since there is adjustability with the attachment, you can make the thickness on the opposite end anything you want by raising and lowering the saw height and saw head tilt with the attachment. I haven't done any math to know the exact yield unfortunately
I’m curious what you think of the lap siding attachment since having it on for a while? Has it affected the regular process any? Thanks.
Hi Bill. So far so good. It seems to stay right where it should even when I’m cutting standard dimensional lumber which was my main thing I wanted to happen. Besides that it’s a pretty simple design so all in all I’m happy with it
Hey Sandy...just getting ready to install my lap siding attachment on my 130 as well...wondering if you have any tips on drying lap siding once cut. I'm doing a bunch of ash since the ash-borer beetle killed them all. How do you sticker the siding boards once cut, and for how long until you think they are ready to go on the house?
Hey thanks for the comment. I try to let the wood sit there atleast through the summer months before I use them. I don’t really have any specific way I stack them aside from the tall side of the lap facing the same way so the stickers lay flat
Hey Sandy, two questions, first would the saw handle the wood fibers if you turn a short cant sideways to make shingles? I have a bed for my hm130 to attach the shingle cants and in theory its possible to do over 20 shingles per pass but not sure how the saw will cut making the long fibers instead of sawdust? And woodland mills website doesn't have a price out yet on that lap siding mod so can you give us a rough idea? Nice videos Josh must like you too.
Did you try this? I'd like to know how it went as in thinking about doin that as well
Is the cant already dried and then cut to desired finished lap siding size? I am novice and I am waiting on my HM130MAX to arrive. Pondering wood srinkage when I get wood down to low moisture level. Thank you for sharing any constructive opinions. Great job producing quality videos and content. Really good stuff. Have a great day and better tomorrow.
I generally make lap siding with it green just as I would make any other piece of lumber
Thanks for the support on the channel!
That is well thought out. I like your height sight glass. Is that boughten or homemade from lexan?
The height glass is from woodland mills. Not sure if they’ve changed the design more recently
Sawing with Sandy Ok thanks. They must have. I have the 130 max. Mine came with a large red pointer. I like the clear sight lexan better. I may have to make my own.
How do you recommend to stack a pile of this lap siding? I can't figure out how you would sticker the boards effectively to avoid warping without keeping my stack to just a single piece of lap siding in width. Which doesn't seem like a good way to go about it to me. Would appreciate any suggestions or maybe even a short video (hint). :-)
I think I’d stack a few pieces with them having the tall edge against each other followers by the next pair having the thin edges together. Then I’d have a flat surface to put my stickers on as the tall edge would stick up and support the stickers. Hope that makes sense
I use lap siding on my house, because the house is 170 years old, and came with lap siding. However,,,lap siding should, NOT, be tapered. The taper on lap siding is a way of increasing yield from your cant. In reality, tapered lap siding, will leave a gap under the center of each board, and when nailed, will bend, and often crack the board. Just lay out a few pieces on a flat surface, and look at the cross section. For good, and much more stable, siding, simple 1/2' boards will work, and be less prone to cupping and splitting. Not to mention simpler to mill. Just my opinion,, of course.
I love watching your progress, and really like the way you explain the process so clearly. Just one question. Did Woodland mills prevent you from showing the mechanics of how the mechanism works ?
Thanks for checking out the video. I've go a video showing the parts of the lap siding attachment being installed. Just scroll back a litlte bit from this video.
@@sawingwithsandy I did watch the whole video of the install, but did not see what happens with the wheels when you pull the lever. Do they pivot toward each other to raise the head ?
Actually, using straight sawn lumber will result in a BIGGER gap under the center....that is one reason for sawing a taper. Also, you DON'T need to nail in the center of the pc.....a few nails should only go about an inch from the top, and the rest an inch from the bottom (going thru the top of the pc below)
Are you using fresh cut lumber, or you waiting for the lumber to air dry ?
I usually let it dry as long as I can but I also don’t shy away from using green lumber
Do you have a video where you put lap sided planks in good use?
I haven’t built a project with siding recently so Unfortunately I don’t
Sandy, the builds I have seen you making are with green lumber. I would think that the lap siding would cup more, and you wouldn’t always be able to but the “bark side down” because there would be a slight variation on the bottom lip. I would also guess you just nailed the top like the clapboard you used on the tiny house. My question is how did you like using the lap siding after you made it? Do you have a preference between the lap siding, and just using the clapboard style. Did it cup a lot, and require face nails later after it had dried? Any other suggestions for installing?
Face nails are always used... galvaized ringshank # 10 if you are also going into a stud which is covered by sheeting... or # 8 if you are nailing direct onto a stud... or only hitting 3/4 inch sheeting. Some guys like galvanized twists. A lot of guys show nailing on the upper thinner edge, and covering these nails with the next row. Carpenters do not do this; this seems to be a video fad that caught on by misinformation being multiplied... The proper proceedure is to place the first nail about an inch above the bottom thicker edge. The second row overlapse the top, thin edge of the preceeding row by one inch. Be sure to nail about 1 to 1 1/8 inch up from the bottom edge of new row you are working on. You want this nail to miss the top thin edge of the row underneath, that you are now overlapping. (Miss it or just graze it but don't nail through both boards) You are using this nail to hold down the thin edge of the row below; so one nail does two jobs. You want the top, thin edge of each row of siding to contract and expand behind the upper piece of siding. The very top-most piece wil be whatever width is needed. You can use a nail on the upper and lower edge of this piece. I like to plan my rows so that the top peice (under the eves or soffets) is an inch and a half wide, ripped from the thick edge of a piece of siding. It looks like trim up there, and acts the same, allowing the lower piece of siding to expand and contracy with the seasons. Siding will not crack along the grain over time using this tried and true method; even when using green lumber. Stain type and species will also determine the amount of expantion and contraction that will happen. I like neatly place galvanized ring shank nails. They do not rust and have a small head.
@@jasonmiller7794 This is the correct method for installing lap siding and works perfectly even mixing green with dried siding boards. Works just as well with non tapered (clapboard) as it renders shrinkage to a non issue. I use full 1"x 4" vertical trim boards at the corners and saw cut or router a 1/2"x (D") rabbet that recesses the siding ends behind the trim. Where the siding ends have to be butted together I use a simple plywood jig that I can slide the siding piece into and router a 3/4"" lap joint across. Depending on species (mostly Western Red Cedar or Douglas Fir) and moisture content you will get a small shrinkage gap but it's not bad. I like the thicker lap siding 1/2" thick at the top so there's enough wood to make a 1/4" lap joint, measured from the back. The jig uses a piece of tapered siding as a shim to hold the piece level for routing the back rabbet. I usually install a few rows of siding before I route any trim so to get the D" rabbet depth correct, not too tight. I hand nail everything with galvanized 2 1/4" trim nails with small heads and only nail into studs, never through the top of the siding or into sheathing alone. Watch out for mule tracks!
@@kknows3512 I have remodled many very old homes with first growth siding that was milled from virgin timber years ago. I am 62. I have installed western red cedar as well, shipped in from the west coast, as well as all kinds of siding. I live in the Missouri Ozarks. I have also milled my own for customers wanting unbeveled lap sideing, 3/4 x 7 or 8"; always an exposed nail at the bottom edge, which cinches down the preceeding row underneath. There is too much irregularity in rough cut southern yellow pine to do anything but this. Also keeps the building tight against the wind. So, I do not see the logic or the practice from a century and more of carpenters, or the instructions of beveled cedar siding companies, of nailing at the top of siding boards. Cosmetic only but not secure, especially in windy and sunbeaten areas. Good idea with the rabbet joint at the trims, but seems like this would only work with shiplap siding, and not with full lap siding boards or beveled siding boards. realcedar.com/siding/installation/profiles/bevel/
What's the best way to stick these boards out in your kiln?
I use 1”x1” pieces of wood between each board after I cut and stack them. I don’t have a kiln though so I just use air drying
wouldn't it be easier to make a few shims to pur under the logs?
Shims? No way. Having to lift the kant by hand while trying to bend over and position the shims...then reclamp the log...then lift the kant while trying to dig the shims out...over and over and over, dozens and dozens of times. Versus just moving a handle?
Yeah, you'd get tired of those shims real quick.
Quick question: I'm buying the HM122...what would determine if I stay with the 7hp engine or go with the 9.5hp engine? I would think as long as my blade is sharp that the 7hp can cut through hardwoods without a problem...or am I wrong about that?
I’d imagine the size of log would have a roll. If they are smaller logs I’d go for the 7hp, if larger I’d get the 9.5
Thank you!
Is there any performance degradation or accelerated wear from leaving the siding attachment on for all other sawmill cutting? i.e. should you uninstall the lap siding attachment if not using it for lap siding?
Hi James. I had the lap siding attachment on for years on my first woodland mills sawmill and I used the sawmill more for regular cutting than lap siding cutting and it cut flat just as well as it did when the lap siding attachment wasn't installed
Is there a way to plane this lap siding for a smoother finish?
I’m think if you place two pieces of the lap siding on top of each other it would make it flat and allow it to be passed through a planer
Sandy, have you ever tried to make shingles if so how did you do it?
Hi Casey, I actually haven’t made shingles before but I think if I were going to I’d use my lap siding attachment and then Afterwards just cut the long board to shingle widths
@@sawingwithsandy you would have to make pretty wide boards wouldn't you?
How did you make your opening video that is in the beginning of all of your videos?
I hired that out to a graphic designer
Someone local or online?
What is your moisture content when milling this siding?
These are fresh green trees so the moisture content would be quite high
@@sawingwithsandy is it typical to mill siding green or do they typically dry the logs? How does that siding move as it dries?
In my experience they would mill the wood green and then it would be kiln dried once cut. It would shrink while drying.
can you make shingle with it? assuming no
Hi Francis. I suppose you could but the grain would likely be backwards if you were to just cut a piece of long siding then cut into shorter pieces. Otherwise you could make a jig to hold short pieces of a log and cut the siding with the lap siding attachment after you make that short log section into a square cant.
@@sawingwithsandy do you still have that lapsiding attachement on your new mill?
Could make a nice video :)
Why do they call it a cant instead of a can?
Do you still like your woodland lap siding attachment?
Still works well. I haven’t used it too Much recently but works very well
Doesn't take an attachment......all it takes is 2 small pcs of plywood for shims.
Cock the cant up off the bed with a peavy, stick the plywood shims between the bottom of the cant and the bed rail. Saw a pc of siding.....the taper will be to one side. Next pass, remove the shims...the taper on the siding will be on the other side. Keep going until the cant is all turned into siding. I've made many many many thousands of feet of siding over the last 30 years using this simple method that costs nothing.
I actually bought a Woodmizer siding/shingle attachment, and the first time I used it and figured out that is ALL it does (cock and uncock the cant side to side), I hung it on the wall of my mill shed and never used it again. One of the problems with an attachment like Woodmizer's is you have to saw a log into a cant.....then move an often REALLY HEAVY cant out of the way ( I often saw cants 16' long, 8" wide and as tall as I can get out of a log to make siding......sometimes 20-24")....Place the attachment on the bed (and it ain't exactly light either), then wrestle the fool cant BACK into the dadgum attachment and saw siding. Heck, by the time you do all that, you could have sawn the whole thing into siding using shims AND SAVED ALL THAT WORK !!
Now the Woodmizer attachment IS GREAT for sawing shingles. You load 6 blocks of wood in it (Up to 24" long, up to 12" wide and however tall you want) and it cocks/uncocks the blocks front to back instead of side to side. Make a pass with the saw head, take 6 shingles off per pass. Throw the attachment lever, the block goes back down to level, make a pass....6 more shingles. You can make a LOT of shingles in short order.. Which is what the guy that bought that POS attachment from me was doing.....making shims to sell to mobile home companies that blocked up trailers....the shims went on the top of the block pile to do the final leveling.
For him, it was a useful tool. For me, it was a wall ornament.
Question for ya Sandy, I’m working on getting my first Woodland Mills HM130 Max, but their on backorder. My question is, are you afraid that with this type of lap siding not a jig but an attachment to your mill, that it’ll eventually start to throw the alignment out on the mill? When you go back to milling straight lumber. I totally see and understand the mechanics of it but again your constantly adjusting the “Head” of the mill. Just curious of your thoughts on it vs the jig/sled type that you’d lay on the bed. Awesome videos by the way, your one of the first people I started watching when I was looking at all the brands of mills. After a BUNCH of research and looking at costs etc I’m taking the plunge because you show ALL, the good, the bad and the ugly. So thank you for your informative videos. Dave
Thanks for watching from the beginning Dave, nice to have so many good people around to bounce ideas off such as yourself. Since the tilting of the head is done with a series of metal sprockets and a chain, I feel like he quality is there to keep the tilting action precise and allow for consistent cuts. Long term I think it’ll keep the angle well. Time will certainly tell but from my initial thoughts I think it will work well. I can see the benefits of adding an attachment to the bed of the mill as was mentioned for other brands and so I too am interested to see the long term repeatability of this attachment. Thanks again for watching, hope all is well with you and enjoy your new mill
How can you make lap siding if your log cant? Trollololol
Hi Sandy ,, Question ,, Seems you are the only miller that can work out your timber dimensions ,,, most others have random sizes of timber left over,,, WHY ,,, are they not bright enough to work it out or just dont care ??????
Millers work on milling grain. Sawyers make lumber
After you cut up one cant you can figure out the optimal cant height for the last piece to be a 1" thick (or whatever) matching trim board. I like 8" siding width so the bottom board can be ripped into (2) 4" trims.
Sandy, this is rediculiously complicated. It's much easier to tilt the cant back and forth, No adjustments needed. Why do people feel spending money and making this complicated is the best. I prefer KISS Have a great day something hard when in fact i't s quite easy.